Koh Chang Trat, Thailand

KO + + LIFESTYLEH + C PEOPLE HAN + OUTDOORS + ACTIVITIESG + + the MAGAZINE 2010

KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 1 2 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 3 Enhancing your happiness at Haad Sai Khao

SERVICES & FACILITIES  Free form outdoor pool (60x15m)  Pool bars  Children pool  Fitness center  Sauna  Spa & Massage  Beach front massages  Tour & activities information KC GRANDE RESORT & SPA  Hote private parking space  Free Wi-Fi  The Beach Restaurant  Coffee Shop  Free Internet Café  Meeting and convention facilities

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For Reservation: Bangkok Office: 166 Soi Jantima 11, Ladphao 80 Road, Wangthonglang, Bangkok 10310, Thailand Tel: +66 (02) 539 5424-6, +66 (02) 538 7200 - Fax: +66 (02) 538 6224 Koh Chang Office: 1/1 Moo 4, Baan Haad Sai Khao, Koh Chang, Trat 23170, Thailand Koh Chang Trat, Thailand Tel: +66 (039) 552 1111 - Fax: +66 (039) 551 394 e-mail: [email protected], [email protected] www.kckohchang.com CONTENTS KO H C HANGthe MAGAZINE

CUISINE Thai cuisine is not just about tongue- 20 numbing and tear Inducing spices RELIGION Thailand is an overwhelmingly Buddhist nation. More then 90 percent of the population follow Buddhism, and its influence is apparent almost everywhere in Thailand 78

GATEWAY Useful information for your visit

KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE

E-mail: [email protected]

Web: www.kohchangthemagazine.com

Concept: Laszlo Halasz 38 Photos: Claude Alain KC Contact: Mana Muangsoom KC Coordinator: Barry Panzer PEOPLE Advertising: Arunee Muangsoom Travellers to Thailand are generally struck by the smiles, warmth Editorial: Sonia Tanha and friendliness of the local people Art Direction: Creative House, Stuttgart, Germany,

Publisher: STAR Photo Co., Ltd. 265/54-55 Second Road, Pattaya City, Chonburi 20150, Tel. 038-362 338 Managing Director: Claude Alain

Special thanks: Koh Chang the Magazine would like to express our most sincere gratitude to the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) guidance.

© 2010 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE. All rights reserved. No responsibility for incorrect Information can be accepted. The views expressed in the articles are those of the author and not necessarily the publisher.

60 Magazine pdf download www.kohchangthemagazine.com THAI www.starphoto.asia SOIDAO V I S A www.infonet24.com Khao Soi Dao is a very quiet and interesting region near the Cambodia Forum www.thaivisa.com/kctm Border with many attractions

6 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 7 GEOGRAPHY AND LANDSCAPE EVENTS & FESTIVALS Mu Koh Chang wild islands have diminished owing to aggressive development over the past few decades the island is still en- dowed with some unique flora and fauna.

hile the global climate has experienced periods of Wboot cooling and warming over millions of years, the climate of Southeast Asia has remained more or less the same as it is today. This is due to its location around the … a different place ! equator and being surrounded by ocean providing plenty of moisture in the form of rain, the region was able to sustain consistent rainforests over a very long period of time. The rain is more evenly distributed throughout the year along the tropical zone, nurturing equatorial rainforests across South and Central America, Africa, Southeast Asia Cocktails and Australia, which were all parts of the same landmass during the last ice age. Then, as the glaciers melted and the sea level rose, many of the rainforests became cut off from each other and various species established themselves, developing along distinctive evolutionary paths in Snacks response to local eco systems and creating a great diversity of forest eco systems and unique flora and fauna. Situated in Trat, the easternmost province of Thailand, very close to the Cambodian border and about 315 km from Bangkok, the 650 sq km Mu Koh Chang is gener- Enjoy in a nice ously blessed with a biologically diverse paradise and commonly known as the “rainforest by the sea”. The Koh Chang Naval Battle Day is organized in late Janu- atmosphere The island chain consists of 3 main islands and 49 smaller ary at Koh Chang Naval Battle Monument (Anuson Yutthana- islands. wi) at Laem Ngop. The event is to commemorate the bravery Koh Chang, Koh Kood and Koh Maak, the three main of the Royal Thai Navy’s action against the French on January islands, cover 209 sq km, 105 sq km and 16 sq km re- 17-21 1941. Merit-making and tribute rites are performed and Your chill-out spectively. Geographically, the islands lie in a straight line there is exhibition by the Royal Thai Navy. from north to south, with Koh Chang positioned about place in Kai Bae ! 10 km from the coast from Laem Ngop District and Koh Trat Independence Day on March 23-27, marks the day Kood located at the southern most point. Koh Maak and the province returned to Thai sovereignty after the French oc- its companion islets, such as Koh Rang, Koh Whai, Koh cupation. The celebration are held at the provincial town hall. Open: 5.p.m. – till late Kharm, Koh Kradad etc., are located in between Koh Chang and Koh Kood. The entire island chain was formed History Kai Bae some 65 millions years ago, but from different orgins. During the reign of King Rama V, conflicts ith France resulted nearly GajaPuri Hotel Koh Chang was part of an undersea volcano that was in the French Army sending troops into Trat and taking control forced up by seismic activity and formed igneous rock as of the province. The two and a half years under the French it cooled. Koh Kood, however, is formed of sandstone and occupation anguished the whole nation. Thanks King Rama Mobile: 085 346 4487 separated from the edge of the Banthad mountain range. V a treaty was finally made. Trat was returned in Thailand on Koh Maak and Koh Kradad are mainly flat, with only a March 23, 1906, in exchange for Pratabong. Siam Reap and few small hills, and were formed by an accumulation of Sri Sophon, three territories on the East covering an area of sandbars.  50.000 square kilometers.

Trat Fruit Fair usually in late May or earl June, features exhi- bitions and agricultural produce. Trat has the ideal condition for the propagation of almost all of tropical fruits. Among its famous fruit are durian, rambutan, mangosteen, salak and pineapple. Activities include merit making, historical and agricultural exhibition, fruits contest and various ebtertainment. 

8 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE CLIMATE & WEATHER Amber Sands As a tropical wet climate the humidity is always strongly --- BEACH RESORT --- ...experience peace on Koh Chang's tranquil east coast influenced by the maritime winds that originate in the Indian Ocean and South China Sea

he Mu Koh Chang islands and the coastline of Trat Tprovince receive an average rainfallof 118 inches each year and temperatures vary from 70-80 degrees Fahren- heit all year round. The Banthad mountain range that separates Thailand from Cambodia is 144 km long and acts as an excellent natural windbreak blocking the south westerly winds from the end of May to the beginning of October. This brings plenty of rainfall to areas in front of the mountain range, including Trat Province and the MU Koh Chang islands. During the cool season, from November to Feb- ruary, the mountain range also blocks cold winds from northeast, helping to ensure fine weather throughout the year. Trat Province is the second only to Ranong Province southern Thailand in terms of rainfall, which does not help to promote tourism, but the days following torrential rain are the most rewarding with white clouds lingering in clear blue skies and a pristine natural environment. Since these islands are situated in an earthquake free zone in the Gulf of Thailand there is also no danger from tsunamis. 

Family-owned and managed boutique style resort with only 7 air conditioned chalets on an almost deserted beach offering friendly hospitality, personal service and attention to detail. www.ambersandsbeachresort.com [email protected] Tel +66(0)39586177 or +66(0)822120698

10 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE SUBMARINE SURPRISES-MARINE ECOLOGY Koh Chang”s coral reefs are outstanding wonderland of color home to myriad species of fish and marine life

n addition to the lush mountainous tropical rainforests the most important diving spots and should not be missed Iand diversity of natural resources that attract foreign by any diver. The huge pile of rocks is also the habitat visitors from all over the world, the colourful corals that of the famous Blue Spotted Rock Cod (Epinephelus grow around the island chain are another attraction that coiodes), which is delicious and sells for up to 600-800 makes Mu Koh Chang an ideal eco tourist destination. bath per kilogram.  A survey conducted five years ago by marine scientist from Kasetsart University described over 120 species of corals and fish. The team also discovered over 20 species of crabs and four species of prawns living on the coral reefs and 224 species of shellfish. They also recorded nine species of green, 15 species of brown and 22 species of red sea- weed, but only three species of sea grass, plus 26 species of sponges and 139 species of phytoplankton. The species of hard coral included Cauliflower Coral (Pocilloporo damicornis), Staghorn coral (Acropora nobi- lis), Flower Coral (Pavona decussate), Mushroom Coral (Fungia repanda) and Double Star Coral (Diploastrea he- liopora). Most of the hard corals are found on shallow and semishallow sea beds, stretching from the shoreline to the bottom of the sea between 5 to 15 meters deep. Divers can enjoy the unlimited natural beauty of theses coral reef around almost all of the islands, from the western coasts of Koh Chang, Koh Yuak and Koh Man Nork, to the sea south of Koh Chang. At Koh Klum, Koh Whai and Koh Laoya there is a great diversityvof hard corals, including Flaring Lip Staghorn Coral (Cropora millepora), Large Brain Coral (Symphyllia radians), Lettuce Coral (Pectinia lactuca) and Disk Coral (Turbinaria mesenterina). About 40km south of Koh Chang, the Rang group of islets (Koh Krah, Koh Kham) west of Koh Maak and east of Koh Kradad, are considered to have the most beautiful and largest accumulations of corals, beneath a clear blue sea and, in some spots, only 3-5 meters deep. The sun can penetrate to the sandy seafloor here, helping a wide rage of precios hard corals and other marine life to flourish, Species include Ring Coral (Favia trun- cates), Table Coral (Acropora subulanta), Boomerang Coral (Polylhyllia talpina), Honeycomb Coral (Goniastrea pectinata), sea anemones in various forms and coral fish, such as Clown Fish (Amphiprion percula), Blue Ring An- gelfish (Pomacanthus annularis), Surf Parrot Fish(Scarus rivulatus) and Eight banded Butterfly Fish (Chaetodon oc- tofasciatus). Furter south, the sea off the western coast of Koh Kood is home to Staghorn Coral (Acropora nasuta), Lobed Cup Coral (Lobophyllia hemprichii) and Petal like Coral (Psammocora contiqua). The area around huge un- derwater rocks known as the “Floating Rocks” is one of Pictures BB Diving/Hanah

12 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 13 SALAK PHET

Koh Chang Detox Center

The SPA Koh Chang Resort Koh Chang Detox Center - Fasting & Cleansing www.thespakohchang.com Email: [email protected], [email protected] 14 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE Telephone: + 66 (0) 39 554 091-3 - Mobile: +66 (0) 83 115 6566 ABC KOH CHANG ABC KOH CHANG

Attractions Administration Seasons Fine white sand beaches 2 districts, 9 villages Raining season: June to October Clear blue water Cool season: November to February Rich marine life Area Code Hot season: March to May Waterfalls 039 Rich rainforest wildlife Suggested cloating Annual average Light fibers and thin cotton during the summer season. Activities rainfall amount However, do prepare pullovers during the month of De- Snorkeling & Diving 4.000 mm cember to February since it can get very cold on the island Spas with temperatures as low as 20”C. Massage and body treatment Coordinates Highest peak Elephant Trekking Latitude : 12” 6” 13* N 744 m Klao Jom Prasat, Salak Pet Temperature Hiking Longitude: 102” 21” 7* E Monthly Average Range: 34”C (April) – 22”C (January) Speedboats History Boating Climate Before World war II, Koh Chang was little known and pira- Topography Canoes and Kayaking Hot and humid cy was still prolific around the archipelago. Koh Chang was Mostly mountainous with rounded slopes; waterfalls are Waterfalls the scene of a sea battle between the Thai and French products of this mix of mountains and streams. Thai Cooking School Distance from Bangkok naval ships in 1941. 322 km Backpackers discovered the charms of the archipelago in Total island area the mid 70s. 650 sq km Distance from Trat The district was given national park status on the 31st of 8 km December 1982. The 3 largest islands It was only in 2000 that electricity and landline phones Koh Chang 154.8 sq km (Thailand second largest island) Electricity were available. It is the 45th of the 102 national park in Koh Kood 129 sq km (Thailand fourth largest island) 220 V Thailand. Rapid developments began in 2002. Koh Mak 16 sq km

Flora Koh Chang land dimension Dipterocarps, gun tree, conifer, evergreen, fishtail, palms, Length: 30 km Width: 14 km rattan palms, fern, mangroves Location Fauna Southeastern region of Thailand, near the border to Cam- 29 species of mammals, 74 species of birds, 42 species of bodia in the Gulf of Thailand. reptiles and amphibians, and a rich marine life

Geography Name variation The interior of the main island Koh Chang, is mountainous, Mu Koh Chang covered by tropical rainforest. Accommodation is mostly on the western side, while the eastern side remains agri- Number of islands cultural. The island looks like a sleeping elephant. 52

Population 8.932 (2008)

Population density 21.3 inhabitants per sq km

Province Trat

16 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 17 GEO DATA RELIGION All over Thailand, the visitor will see saffron-clad Buddhist Monks, and hear the soft chanting of Pali scriptures and The thinking of temple bells. Yet a strong thread of animism And superstition persist, as seen in the use of amulets And the presence of spirit houses and city pillars eperated from the mainland by a narrow mangrove Sfringed 8 km channel, Koh Chang remained relatively uninhabited and pristine until about 200 years ago, Ao Sal- ak Petch becoming the site of a small fishing settlement in the 1920”s. There are two main roads on Koh Chang, the first creeps along the western shore and the second along the eastern coastline, both about 30 km long and starting from km 0 at Baan Klong Son in the north of the island. The second largest Island in Thailand, after Phuket in the Andaman Sea, the total area of Koh Chang is approximately 130.937 rai (209 sq.km), the lengt from north to south is about 30 km and the width is about 14 km. The general topography is mainly steep mountainsides, with flat land scarce and found only along the northern and central coast, and in a small area along the southern coast. All the available flat land is mainly used for fruit and rubber tree plantations. Unlike the limestone islands in the water of the Andaman Sea, one common characteristic of the islands in this chain is that there are no coastal caves eroded by the sea and wind. The igneous rock and sandstone that form these islands are solid, hard and not subject to erosion. The existence of the volcano is evident in the dark brown volcanic rock formations of different sizes seen along the white sandy beaches, especially on Koh Maak and Koh Kham. The fine white sand has a sparkling quality because it contains the same kind of quarz that is used for making glass. Along the coast of Trat Province, at Laem Klad and Ao Mai Rud Bay, the sandy beaches originated from the sandstone Banthad mountain range, the sea gradually eroding the sandstone into several kilometers of bright sandy beaches. There is a great diversity of landscapes and ecosystems, including sandy beaches, rocky seashores, steep cliffs, rocky outcrops and headlands, lush mangrove shrubs, beach forests, swamp forests and mountainous tropical rainforests. This chain of islands is perfect, with relatively undisturbed rainforests and the best preserved natural environment in the Gulf of Thailand. All the islands in Mu Koh Chang, except Koh Maak and Koh Kradard, are mainly mountainous with very little flat land, except along the costal areas around the islands. 

18 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 19 RELIGION All over Thailand, the visitor will see saffron-clad Buddhist Monks, and hear the soft chanting of Pali scriptures and The thinking of temple bells. Yet a strong thread of animism And superstition persist, as seen in the use of amulets And the presence of spirit houses and city pillars

hailand is an overwhelmingly Buddhist nation. More who visits a temple to pray for a sick person, gains merit. Tthen 90 percent of the population follow Buddhism, The Buddha in front of which the prayers are offered only and its influence is apparent almost everywhere in Thai- a formal background for these activities. It is important to land. Only about 6 percent of the Thais are Muslims, and note that neither the statue, nor the Buddha himself, is they live mainly in the far south of the country, close to the worshipped. border with Malaysia, while the remainder is made up of Christian, Hindu and Sikh communities. Mahayana Buddhism Over the centuries, Buddhism has played a profound role in shaping the Thai character. In addition to Theravada Buddhism, there is Mahayana The Buddhist concept of the impermanence of life and Buddhism, the form that is practiced mainly by those of possessions, and of the necessity to avoid extremes of Chinese descent. Visitors are most likely to spot Mahay- emotion or behaviour, has done much to create the re- ana temples in Bangkok’s Chinatown district. Mahayana laxed, carefree charm of Thai people.

Theravada Buddhism

Most of the Thai population are supporters of the Theravada school of Buddhism, which is also the main Buddhist form practiced in neight- bouring countries like Laos. Cambodia. Myan- mar, as well Sri Lanka. Nevertheless, even a casual visitor to temples in these countries will quickly notice differences between them. As they have done with most outside cultural influ- ences – Khmer temple decorations and Chinese food, for instance – the Thais have evolved a Bud- dhism of their own cast over the centuries. Theravada Buddhism is a mixture of Buddhist, Hindu and animistic beliefs. It is the oldest of all Buddhist faiths, and it is the only one to trace its origins directly back to the teachings of Gau- tama Buddha in the 6th century BC. The central doctrines are based on the temporary nature of life and the imperfections of all beings. With the help of a complicated system of rules, each Thai, whether lay person or monk, tries to achieve spiritual merit in the present life so that it will favourably influence their next life – thus permitting an existence that will be char- acterised by less suffering and ultimately lead to the final goal of nirvana, or enlightenment. To this end, almost all the religious activities that a traveler will experience in Thailand have to do with the concept of merit-making. Therefore, a man who spends some part of his life as monk will earn merit by living in accordance with the strict rules governing monastic life. Similarly, person who supports the monks on a daily basis by donating food, or

20 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 21 RELIGION

RESTAURANT • BAR • RESORT literally means “Greater Vehicle”. The defining belief, ac- arbitrators of disputes in the villages. They also play an cording to this doctrine, is that those who have attained important part in daily life, such as blessing a new building, nirvana return to earth to help others reach the same state. or at birthdays and funerals. The various Buddhist sects and practices that predomi- nate in countries like China, Tibet, Taiwan, Japan, Korea Spirits and amulets and Vietnam are classified as Mahayana. Chinese Buddhism, at least that practiced in Thailand, It is not known exactly when the Thai people first em- primarily consists of incense sticks, lucky charms and braced a belief in spirits, but it not was most probably long talismans, and heaps of other folk practices. The visitor before their migration south into present-day Thailand, and entering a sanjao, or inner shrine, of such temple will have certainly long before their gradual conversion to Buddhism a chance to shake sticks out of a canister, from witch around AD 800-1200. Even after Buddhism took root in your fortune can be told. At funerals, paper money and Thailand, the people continued to worship their old dei- doll-sized cardboard houses are burned to assist the de- ties and spirits to fill in what they saw as gaping holes in ceased in his or her next life. Buddhism. Most Thais widely accept that there are spirits everywhere Temple life spirits of the water, wind and woods, and both locality spirits and tutelary spirits. These spirits are not so much Most of Thailand’s 300.000 or so monks live in wat (tem- good or bad, but are powerful and unpredictable. More- ples), practising and teaching the rules of human conduct over, they have many of the foibles that plague humans, laid down by the Buddha. There are literally hundreds of being capable of vindictiveness, lust, jealousy, greed and Buddhist temples in the cities and suburbs, usually sited malice. To appease them, offerings must be made, and in serene pockets of densely packed neighbourhoods and since spirits display many aspects of human nature, these serving as hubs for the spiritual and social life of the com- offerings are often what people would value themselves. munity. To counteract the spirits and potential dangers that lurk in The term wat defines a large, walled compound made life, protective spells are often cast and kept in small amu- up of several buildings, including a bot or hall where new lets mostly worn monks are ordained, and one or more viharn where ser- around the neck. mons are delivered. It may also contain a bell tower, a ho Curiously, the trai (library), and guti, or monks’ living quarters, as well as amulets cannot be a domed edifice, called chedi in Thailand, or stupa in the bought or sold, but Indian subcontinent. Chedi typically contain the relics of rather rented on the Buddha, but in most instances, it contains the relies of an indefinite lease wealthy donors or holy people. from “landlords”, Tradition requires, that every Buddhist male enter the often monks con- monkhood for a brief period before marriage, and com- sidered to possess panies customarily grant paid leave for male employees magical powers. wishing to do so. The entry of a young man into monkhood Some monasteries is seen as repayment to his parents for his upbringing, have been turned and for bestowing special merit on them, particularly his into highly-profit- mother. Unlike in other Buddhist countries, women cannot able factories for be ordained in Thailand. It is thus popularly believed that the production of a son, as monk, can earn merit on behalf of his mother amulets. There are and other female relatives. For all is Spartan life, however, amulets that offer a Buddhist wat in Thailand is by no means isolated from protection against the real world. In addition to the schools that are attached accidents during to most wat, the temple has traditionally been the centre travel or against of social and communal life in the villages. Monks also du- bullet and knife rable up as herbal doctors, psychological counselors and wounds; some are

22 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 23 RELIGION RELIGION

even said to boost sexual attraction. All this, however, has placed locality spirits. As if this weren’t enough, the Thais no more to do with Buddhism than the protective bluepat- also feel obliged to consider the world outside the muang. terned intricate tattoos sported by some rural Thais in an It is no surprice that the Thais frequently erect spirit hous- attempt to ward off evil. es along the roads linking their settlements, paying particular attention to threatening or ominous landscapes or The city pillar features. Even today, every pass or steep section of road is marked by a spirit house to accommodate the inconve- When the first Thai migrants established themselves in the nienced locality spirit. Passing drivers beep their horns in plains around Sukhothai, their basic unit of organisation salutation, and many stop to make offerings, Spirit houses was the muang, group of villages under the control and are also raised in the fields to ensure the safety of the corp. protection of a wiang, or fortified town. Of crucial impor-  tance to each muang, and located at the centre of each wiang, was the lak muang , or city pillar. Till today, the city pillar is an important feature of many towns throught Thailand. The lak muang – generally a rounded pole thought to rep- resent a rice shoot – is the home of the guardian spirits of the city and surrounding district. It is venerated on regular basis, and an annual ceremony, with offering of inceence, flowers and candles, is held to ensure the con- tinuing prosperity and safety of the muang. Long ago, during the region’s animist past, the raising of the city pillars was often associated with brutal rituals involving human sacrifice. Fortunately, such rituals have long since dis- appeared from the scene, as gentler traditions associated with Theravada Buddhism have modified spirit worship.

Spirit houses

For many centuries, offering have been made when land had to be cleared for agriculture or building. After all, the spirits of a place are its original owners, and their feelings have to be taken into consideration. At some point, it was decided that an effective way of placating a locality spirit was to build it a small house of its own. That way, it would be comfortable and contented, and above all, would not feel the urge to move in with its human neighbours. Today, no building in Thailand, not even the humblest wooden hut, will be seen without a spirit house, or at least a house altar. In ordinary residences, the small doll-like house may resemble a Thai dwelling; in hotels and offices, it is usually an elaborately decorated mini temple. Thai Buddhist temples have also accommodated the practice of spirit worship. There is hardly a Buddhist temple in the country that does not incorporate an celebrate spirit house in its grounds – built at the same time as the con- secration of the temple in order to accommodate the dis-

24 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 25 RELIGION BBLonely Beach DIVERS - Bang Bao - White Sand Beach All over Thailand, the visitor will see saffron-clad Buddhist 5 STAR PADI DIVE CENTER Monks, and hearKoh the soft Chang chanting of Pali scriptures and The thinking of templeThailand bells. Yet a strong thread of animism  And superstition persist, as seen in the use of amulets And the presence of spirit houses and city pillars IDC ON KOH CHANG Interested in a new lifestyle? ….. What about the sea as your office?..... Become a padi dive instructor…. We specialize in dive master and instuctor training

bbdivers five star padi idc dive center bbdivers is a belgian dive school in Koh Chang, working with an international divers team. We have been on koh chang since 2003. We offer all Padi courses, daily fun dives and snorkeling in a relaxed atmosphere and with a personal approach... BBdivers has fair prices including full insurance, free pick-up all over the island, food, coffee, tea and softdrinks, Padi certification, Padi manual, use of all equipment, licensed dive guide for fun dives, licensed instructor for courses. We sell dive equipment and all Padi materials. ■ All padi courses, open water to instructor, in english, dutch, french, german… ■ Training in private swimming pool ■ daily dive and snorkeltrips from our own boat ■ overnight boat trip to surrounding islands ■ free pick up from hotel, also boat pick up from koh wai and long beach ■ boatcharter

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Lonely Beach - Bang Bao -White Sand Beach Koh Chang [email protected] - www.bbdivers.com main shop and office: bang bao 16/2 shop, classroom, trainingspool, rooms and restaurant,

lonely beach 13/17 - 23170 koh chang DIVERS BB Kristel +66 (0) 86.155.62.12 Mobile shop +66 (0) 86.129.23.05 Tel shop +66 (0) 39.55 80.40 PADI DIVE CENTER DIVE PADI 26 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 27 KOH CHANG ANIMAL PROJECT RELIGION All over Thailand, the visitor will see saffron-clad Buddhist Monks, and hear the soft chanting of Pali scriptures and The thinking of temple bells. Yet a strong thread of animism And superstition persist, as seen in the use of amulets And the presence of spirit houses and city pillars

surgeons from around the world, the idea grew. Now, in 2009, the project offers general health care, vaccinations, sterilization, parasite control, wound management, emergency services, hospitalization and critical care. The main focus of the foundation is to educate the local people how to provide their animals with good general health care and offer the services necessary to do so. (Historically, the island people have relied on government officials to service their animals. If their animals are not well at home, the owners will give Paracetamol, which is acetaminophen, and very toxic to cats, and dogs.) There is no official billing system at the foundation. It is asked that people pay for the materials used but the time and treatments are free. People usually cover the cost plus they give a donation towards the care of the temple and street animals. The people of Koh Chang have known Lisa for over 9 years; they have come to trust her. If someone needs help with their animal and they have no money, it’s not a problem. They already know that they can come to receive animal health care for free. Sometimes a donation of fish, rice, washing powder or bleach is offered...and greatly appreciated. The building is located in the village of Klong Son. It is on the same road leading to Ban Qwan Chang elephant camp, exactly 1.5 kilometers from the intersection on the left hand side of the street. The building is 50 meters from the road with 25 cats and 9 dogs running around. There have been a number of traveling veterinarians and vet nurses who have helped support the project by donating their holiday time to perform medical services and educate our volunteers. We are always looking for help and people that love he Koh Chang Animal Project (Still awaiting “official” animals are always welcome. Tender loving care is Tfoundation status, after all correct paperwork was de- one of the most important factors for animal health livered to the city office, over 3 years ago. ) was stared by and well being, so even if you just want to cuddle and Lisa McAlonie. Lisa came to Koh Chang in 2000 as a dive clean….please contact us. We need all the help we instructor. Diving soon took a back seat when Lisa noticed can get !! All of our funding comes from private dona- the lack of animal care on the island. With 25 years of ani- tions. Lisa has put in 150,000 US$ of her own money mal health experience behind her, she set out to change and can no longer support the project by herself. what she experienced. What alarmed her the most was the simple things that were not being done to help ani- You may contact Lisa at + +(0)89-042-2347 or email mal's general health care. After helping the Ministry of her at: [email protected] Livestock, with their spay and vaccination programs, Lisa or [email protected] was more driven than ever to bring good animal health Direct deposits can be made at the Bank of Ayudhya care to Koh Chang. (Here, it is general practice to spay Public Company Limited. female dogs and cats outside on newspaper.) With the The account is under Miss Elizabeth Marie help of some supportive locals and some excellent vet McAlonie at Account number 368-1-12054-3

28 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 29 WHERE IS

Kooncharaburi Resort Spa & Sailing Club

1 KC Grande Resort 2 K-Horizon Pub E S C A P E T O P A R A D I S E 3 15 Palms 4 Sabay Bar Koh Chang Thailand 5 Monkeys 6 Ban Thai Resort 7 Scuba Evolution 8 Sea Side Restaurant 9 TOP Resort 10 Paddy palms 11 THAIFUN 12 Buy & Sell 13 Evolution tours 14 Kati Kulinary 15 Sima Massage 16 Bar del mar 17 Joy Restaurant 18 Fashion Way 19 Jalla Jalla 20 O new’S Place 21 Coral Resort 22 Kae Bae Hut 23 Kai Bae Marina 24 KONTIKI 25 Lonely Beach Resort 26 Barrio Bonito 27 DUSIT Princess 28 Tranquillity Bay 29 Chiva Puri Residence 30 Chow Lay 31 BB Divers 32 Buddha View Glorious Eastern Coast of Thailand 33 ABC 34 The Spa Koh Chang Resort 35 Kooncharaburi Resort&Spa 36 Amber Sands  37 Siam Royal View Pristine setting on Kong Chang Bay 38 Bang Pit House  Fine contemporary Thai style architecture  79 guest rooms and wood panneled villas KOH MAK  Private beach 200m wide 39 Koh Mak Resort  Soothing Thai spa 40 Baan Sabaay  Ideal location for diving trips to the group 41 Good Time Resort 42 PLUBPLA Resort of islands of Koh Chang National Marine Park 43 Makathanee Resort 44 RAYANG ISLAND Resort

Kooncharaburi Resort Spa & Sailing Club, 1 Moo 4, Kong Kang Bay, Tambol Koh Chang Tai, Ampur Koh Chang, Trat 23170, Thailand Bangkok Sales Office: 851 Ngamwongwan Road So 27, Bangkhen, Muang, Nonthaburi 11000 Thailand

30 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE For information and reservation call: +66 0 2952 7456 - Fax: +66 0 2588 0526 Website: www.kooncharaburi.com - Email: [email protected] KOH CHANG ISLAND STATUS RELIGION Wealthy with greenery, wildlife, and marine creatures, its most All over Thailand, the visitor will see saffron-clad Buddhist Scenic beaches are located along the western flank. Monks, and hear the soft chanting of Pali scriptures and moving from north to south, the beaches are The thinking of temple bells. Yet a strong thread of animism generally more secluded less crowded and pricey… And superstition persist, as seen in the use of amulets And the presence of spirit houses and city pillars

he island’s status of the world’s tourism barometer Thas risen a few degrees in recent years because of its stunning natural beauty, and the fact that its once-rickety infrastructure has been solidified. More than 70 percent of the mountainous island it still covered in untouched rainforest, and there are many secluded beaches, complete with that vital tropical isle trinity of white sand, palm trees, and warm blue water, where you can really get away from it all and leave your troubles on the mainland.

Koh Chang or Elephant Island, is part of the Mu Ko Chang National Park. This national park s comprised of an archipelago of 52 islandes, of witch Koh Chang the largest. Some 429 square kilometer in size. After Phuket, the second biggest island in the Kingdom of Thailand. Wealthy with greenery, wildlife, and marine creatures, its most scenic beaches are located along its western flank. Moving from north to south, the beaches are generally more secluded, less crowded and pricey, with the aforementioned Diamond Sand towards the northern trip, and Hat Klong Prao and Had Kai Bae, in the middle. Further south is a lively backpacker’s enclave is Lonely Beach, or Hat Tha Nam, where you can stay in a tree house.

Other than swimming and sunbathing, the island offers inland adventures such as rainforest trekking. Or you can ride a lumbering elephant ito the primeral jungle, popu- lated with boars, Javan mangrove, barking deer, and than 60 differend species of birds.

Many of the bungalow operations around Hat Sai Khao and Hat Kai Bae have kayaks, boogie boards and mountain bikes for rent. Booking a day trip, or overnight, to nearby islandes is another attractive option. 

32 KOHKOH CHANGCHANG thethe MAGAZINEMAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 33 hai food is expanding faster globally than any other cui- CUISINE Tsine, and it’s easy to see why. Less a dining experience than a sensory overload on different levels, it’s one of the Thai cuisine is not just about tongue-numbing and few cuisines in the world capable of drawing people to a tear Inducing spices. Regional, ethnic-migrant and fusion styles country purely on its own merit. It may be the explosive spiciness of Thai food that initially Kati Culinary Of cooking combine to create a variety of exciting and complex (yes, sometimes even bland) flavours overwhelms, but what’s most impressive is the extraordi- nary complex balance of flavours that lie underneath. And Thai Cooking School & Restaurant that appeal even to the serious gourmand contrary to what most people think, Thai cuisine is not all blatantly spicy; most Thai meals will include a sampling of less aggressive dishes, some subtly flavoured with only garlic and mild herbs. The variety of foods and cooking styles is immense as each of Thailand’s four regions have given rise to distinct cuisine variations. The northeast is influenced by Laos, the south by Malaysia and Indonesia, the central area by the cuisine of the Royal Thai kitchens, and the north by Myanmar and Yunnan (China). Adding excitement, especially in Bangkok, are restaurants experimenting boldly with Thai and Western ingredients and methods of preparation.

How to eat Thai food Most Thai meals have dishes placed in the middle of the table to be shared by all; the larger the group. The more dishes you get to try. For novices to Asian-style dinning, the proper etiquette is to dish out a heap of rice onto your plate together with small portions of various dishes at the side. Eat with a fork and spoon, using the fork in the left hand to push food onto the spoon. Chopsticks are only for Chinese and noodle dishes. For soupy noodle dishes, use the chopsticks to pile noodles onto the spoon with a little broth. Rice is the staple; in the past it sustained workers throughout the day with just small portions of chilli, curry or sauce added for flavour. Even now, many rural Thais eat large helping of rice with just small morsels of dried or salted fish. Thankfully, jasmine-scented Thai rice is one of the most delicious varieties found in Asia. Condiments on the table usually include such items as dried, ground red chilli, sliced chilli with vinegar, sliced chilli with nam pla (fish sauce), and white sugar. These are mainly used to add extra flavour to noodle dishes.

Northern cuisine This is the mildest of Thai food. Northerners generally eat khao nio (sticky rice), kneading it into a ball to dip into sauces and curries such as the Burmese-inspired kaeng hanglay, a sweet and tamarind-sour pork dish. Thai noodle dish called khao soi also found in Myamar, but it is possibly of Chinese orgin. Usally made with chicken, it has fresh egg noodles swimming in a mild coconut curry, with crispy noodles sprinkled on top. Other northern Thai specialities include sausages, such as the spicy pork sai oua (roasted flavour) and name (fermented raw pork and pork skin seasoned with garlic and chilli). Laab is a popular salad dish of minced pork, chicken, beef, or fish served with mint leaves and raw vegetables to re- duce the heat ot the spices. It’s also commonly served in the northeast region. www.katiculinary.com 34 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE Tel. +66 (0) 819 030 408/039KOH CHANG 557 the 252 MAGAZINE 35 Central cuisine CUISINE Central cuisine. Influenced by the royal palaces, includes many of the dishes made internationally famous at Thai restaurants abroad. It’s notable for the use of coconut milk and garnishes such as grapes, which mellow the chilli heat of the fiery dishes and add a tinge of sweetness. Trademark dishes include tom kha gai (a soup of chicken, coconut milk and galangal) the celebrated tom yum goog (hot and sour shrimp soup) and kaeng khio waan (green curry with chicken or beef, basil leaves and pea-sized aubergines). Stir-fries and noodle dishes are commonplace, due to the large Chinese presence.

Northeastern cuisine a mild salad of rice, vegetables, pounded dried fish Noodle and rice The food ot the northeastern (Isaan) region is generally simple and southern fish sauce called budu. Slightly spicier Noodles – a Chinese import – are ubiquitous all over Thai- peasant fare, usually spicy, and eaten with mounds of sticky is phad sataw, a stirfry usually of pork or shrimp, and land, and come in two types: kuay tiaw, made from rice flour, rice kept warm in bamboo baskets. Spicy dishes include the sataw, a large lima bean look-alike with a strong fla- and ba mee, from wheat flour. Both can be ordered broad ever-popular som tam (shredded green papaya, garlic, chil- vour and aroma. Khao moke gai is delicious roasted (sen yai), narrow (sen lek) or very narrow (sen mee), and with lies, lime juice and variantons of tomatos, dried shrimp, pre- chicken with turmeric-seasoned yellow tinted rice, like broth (sai naam) or without (haeng). Common dishes are kuay served crab and fermented fish) and a version of lab sauce, an Indian-style biryani, often sprinkled with crisby fried tiaw raad naa (rice noodles flash-fried and topped with sliced witch is spicier and more sour than its northern counterpart. oniens. Spicy southern dishes include kaeng tai plaa. meat and greens in a thick, mild sauce) and paad thai (nar- But perhaps the most popular Isaan food, gai yang, is not row pan-fried rice noodles with egg, dried and freh shrimp, spicy at all. This is chicken grilled in an aromatic marinade Fishermen who needed food that would last for days out spring onions, tofu, crushed peanuts and bean-sprouts). In of peppercorns, garlic, fish sauce, coriander and palm sugar, at sea are said to have created this dish by blending the mee krawp, the rice noodles are fried crispy, tossed in sweet- then chopped into bite-sized pieces and served with both fermented stomachs of fish with chillies, bamboo shoots and-sour sauce and topped with sliced chillies, pickled garlic spicy and sweet dipping sauces. and vegetables together with an intensely hot sauce. An and slivers of orange rind. even hotter dish is kaeng leuang (yellow curry), a variant of Many lunchtime rice dishes are of Chinese origin. They in- Southern cuisine the central Thai kaeng som curry, with fish, green papaya clude the popular khao man gai(chicken with rice cooked in The south-notable for some of Thailand’s most fiery and bamboo shoots or palm hearts cooked in an explo- chicken broth); khao moo daeng (with Chinese red pork; and dishes – also has gentler specialities such as khao yam, sively hot curry. khao kaa moo (with stewed pork leg and greens). At night and in the early morning, two soup-like rice dishes are favoured by Thais. Kkao tom comes in the water it was boiled in (with additions such as garlic-fried pork, salted egg or pickled ginger) and the close relative joke, which is porridge-like rice seasoned with minced pork chopped coriander leaves and slivets of fresh ginger.

Thai desserts Khanom (desserts) come in a bewildering variety, from feath- ery light concoctions with crushed ice and syrup, to custards, ice creams, little cakes, and an entire category based on egg yolks cooked in flower-scented syrups. After-meal desserts, served in small bowls, are generally light and elegant. Kluay buat chee has banana slices in sweetened and salted warm coconut cream. Kluay kaek uses bananas sliced lengthwise, dipped in coconut cream sliced lengthwise, dipped in coconut cream and rice flour, and deep-fried until crisp. Another favourite is tap tim krawp (water chestnut pieces covered in red-dyed tapioca flour and served in coconut cream and crushed ice), and sangkhaya ma-praoawn, a coconut cream custard steamed in a young coconut or a small pumpkin. Many desserts are inventive – you may finish a rich pudding before realizing that its tantalizing flavour comes from fried onions. Look out for vendors who sell khanom beuang, crispy shells filled with strands of egg yolk cooked in syrup with shredded coconut, sweet and spicy dried shrimp, coriander and coconut cream. But, if you sample nothing else in Thai- land, don’t miss the heavently khao niao ma-muand (sweet mango with sticky rice and coconut cream). Visit Kati (Kati Culinary cooking school) for more information or questions about Thai food. 

36 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 37 PEOPLE AND CULTURE Warm-hearted smiles, a pleasant disposition and sense of calm: these are the qualities which are readily discerned by visitors to Thailand. But Thais can also be fiercely patriotic; criticisms against monarchy are not easily tolerated

ravellers to Thailand are generally struck by the mountainous north, once the seat of the ancient Lanna Tsmiles, warmth and friendliness of the local people. kingdom, people speak a Thai variant called kham There is always amiable concern – not to be interpreted meuang and share culinary simiarits with neighbouring as nosiness – and an openness seldom found else- Myanmar. People in the northeast speak Isaan, a lan- where in the world. The standard greeting is pai nai, or guage closely related to Lao, and their meals with sticky “Where are you going?” But this is not meant to be in- rice. The northeast also happens to be Thailand’s poor terpreted literally; rather it is the approximate equivalent east region; many people from this region are seasonal of “Hello” or “How are you?” One of the guiding pre- migrants, living their drought-stricken farms to work as cepts of Thai life is sanuk, witch means fun or joy. The migrant labourers in Bangkok. quantity and quality of sanuk in both work and play will The south is a more prosperous region; its vast costal often determine whether something is worth pursuing. stretches attract tourists and support fishing and fruit Almost as important is the concept of sabai, the best orchards. Aside from a small group of Malay-speacking translated as “comfortable” or “contented”. As far as Muslims, most people in this region speak a southern Thai people are concerned, in the best of all possible dialect of Thai. worlds, life should be both sanuk and sabai. The an- tithesis of sanuk is seriat – a borrowing from the Eng- A revered monarch lish word “serious”. Life just isn”t meant to be taken too seriously. Underpinning this light-hearted pursuit of At the heart of Thai society is the kingdom’s reverence happiness are the Buddhist values of tolerance and ac- for the Thai monarch. His Majesty King Bhumibol Adu- ceptance. lyadej. Visitors will be struck at how the national anthem is played before cinema screenings and the audience The Thai jigsaw will stand as a mark of respect to the king. Even when the anthem is played at 8am and 6pm on radio and TV Thailand has a population over 64 million people. More each day, many Thais stop whatever they are doing and than 90 percent of Thai are Theravada Buddhists. Mus- stand erect. At offices, shops and houses throughout lims make up around six percent of the population and, the land, the king’s portrait is prominently portrayed – though they live all over the country, are mostly concen- such is the measure of respect accorded to the Thai trated in the southern regions of Thailand. monarch. Around 14 percent of the population are descendants In fact when the king celebrated his Golden Jubilee in of Chinese immigrants who located from China during June 2006, commemorating 60 years on the throne, the 19th and first half of the 20th century. The Chinese well-wishers wearing yellow shirts jammed the roads have assimilated remarkably well into Thai society. Chi- leading to the Royal Plaza. And on every Monday for nese and Thais have intermarried freely and there is the rest of the year until the king’s 80th birthday on 5 no deep-rooted anti-Chinese bias in Thailand, unlike December 2007, millions of people across the country other parts of Southeast Asia. Living mostly in urban wore yellow T-shirts in a mass demonstration of their areas and involved in trade and commerce, the Chi- loyalty and allegiance to the king. nese knack for entrepreneurial know-how has ensured that much of the country’s wealth is controlled by Sino- Hi-So and Lo-So Thai families. Other, much smaller, immigrant groups in Thailand include Indians, Khmer, Vietnamese and the Thai society is fiercely hierarchal, with an individual’s various hill tribes living in the north. roles and duties defined by his or her social status. In The country can be divided into four regions; central, fact the Thai language uses personal pronouns which north, northeast and south. Each of the regions has its indicate whether the speaker is addressing a younger own language variant, cultural traits and distinctive and or elder person, or a person of lower or higher status. commercial heart of the country and is located in the The top end of Thai society is known as “Hi-So”. A Central Plains. This is Thailand’s linguistically dominant Thai slang abbreviated from the English phrase “high region as the central Thai dialect is the language spo- society”, and comprises Thai nobility and wealthy Sino- ken by educated Thais from all over the country. In the Thai families. Being Hi-So is as much wealthy Sino Thai

38 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 39 PEOPLE AND CULTURE

Restaurant B.B.Q & Seafood families. Being Hi-So is as much about glamour and matriarchs and holders of the family purse strings. For key emotion is kraeng jai which denotes an unwillingness wealth as it about pedigree. The Hi-So scene is con- years, women have also been at the helm of large pri- to impose on other people. This often means that emo- Food & Beverage fined mainly to Bangkok and is frequently depicted in vate business as men customarily go into government tions such as anger or displeasure are hidden away, and the society pages of the city’s newspapers and maga- or the military. Today, Thai women are prominent in ho- tension and conflict avoided at all cost. Thais place a high KOH CHANG zines, with the immaculately attired women sporting tel trade, tourism, real estate, advertising, the export value on equanimity and will go to great lengths to pre- big hair and big jewels. trade, banking, medicine and the law. vent confrontation. Neither do they like saying “no” too Thailand’s growing middle-class is largely made up of In relationship stakes, woman generally don’t fair too directly for fear of causing offence. educated urbanites living on suburban housing estates well. It is a well accepted fact that most Thai men are Connected to this is the idea of jai yen, or “cool heart”. It and working at corporate jobs in the city. Billboards chao choo, or adulterers. The law favours male promis- is imperative for advertising these housing estates are everywhere; they cuity; if a women is unfaithful, it is ample grounds for Thais to keep a often depict Western style houses complete with two divorce but is not, however, when a man cheats on his cool and calm children and a dog playing in the garden. wife. The extra marital affair is semi-formalised in the heart in all situ- The majority of Thai people make up the agrarian seg- practice of keeping a mia noi, literally “minor wife” or ations. To lose ment who live in villages and farm the land. The village mistress. your temper or idyll, however, has changed radically over the past few to raise your decades as environmental degradation and poverty Socialising the Thai way voice in public have forced many villagers to find work in the big cities is seen as a as taxi drivers, construction workers and prostitutes. The Thai love fun, or sanuk, infuses all social gather- severe loss of The rural-urban divide is stark and is only in recent ings. They enjoy group activities and it’s always a case face; problems years that the problems of rural Thailand have been of the more the merrier. should always brought to the fore in the capital by coalitions like The Thais greet each other with a wai, but may use the be dealt with Forum of the Poor, which organizes protest movements more intimate hom kaem (to smell the cheek), which is in friendly man- in the capital and other ruinous government policies. simply a sniff against someone’s face. Thais rarely use ner and with Woman in Thai society their surnames and even relative strangers will refer to e q u a n i m i t y. each other by their nicknames, or cheu len (play name). Those unable There is an old Thai saying that woman are the hind These are most often one-syllable monikers based on to maintain this legs of the elephant. And it does hold true to a certain animals like Moo (piK), Noo (mouse), or Poo (crab) or cool veneer are extent; while most of the legal discrimination against are more modern adaptations from English, such as X, considered to women has been largely eliminated, women are still Boy or Benz. be jai ron, or expected to be socially submissive to Thai men. Still Aside from sanuk, there are a few particularly Thai con- “hot hearted”. many women maintain power behind the scenes as cepts that are helpful in understanding Thai culture. One  Ban Thai Resort 6/7 Moo 4, Had Sai Khao, Koh Chang Trat 23170. Thailand Tel: (66) 3994 1108 to 9 - Fax: (66) 3955 1110 40 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE Website: www.kohchangbanthai.com BEACHES BEACHES Koh Chang offers activities for beach lovers and mountain trekkers. Its pristine white sand beaches are perfect for swimming, sunbathing, or snorkeling in clear blue waters. Watching the beautiful sunset after a day with satisfying activities

Klong Son Beach has sandy beach with many palm trees providing plenty of Located on the northern end of the island, Klong Son shade. During dry season , you have to walk one hundred Beach is the first beach on the right that greets you after metres to reach the water. Once a sleepy area. Kai Bae Vil- you disembark at the ferry pier. It has a scenic bay with a lage, there are a few small shops, supermarkets and many long stretch of palm-lined sandy beach and some of the restaurants. most luxurious villas on the island. Visitors can explore fruit orchards, rubber plantations and Lonely Beach the fishing village. Lonely Beach is a small stretch south of Kai Bae. Only one kilometer long. Tha Nam Beach is populary nicknamed White Sand Beach in many tourist brochures as Lonely Beach. Formerly a White Sand Beach, the most popular and most commer- backpacker’s haven, the beach used to be deserted. More cial features a long strip powdery sand slopes gently into visitors later descended on this small beach that features the sea. Casuarinas and palm trees line the beach while fine white sand one the northern end and stones on the forested hills lurk in the background. During low tide, the southern end. The northern end is the best places to swim beachfront becomes much wider and consequently at- along the west coast. tracts lots of beachgoers. The northern end is sandy and quiet, while the southern end has plenty of stones. White Sand Beach is hub many activities, where people like to take stroll while watching the sunset. Various sport activities along the beach.

Kai Mook Beach Kai Mook Beach is a small stretch of pebbed beach at the southern tip of White Sand Beach, and separated from Laem Chaichet by a forest hill. Mook means pearl in Eng- lish, and the Beach was given this name of the pearl like corals on the beach’s sea bed. It is a quiet, peaceful place perfect for snorkeling.

Leam Chaichet Laem Chaichet, with sits between White Sand and Klong Prao beaches, serves as an ideal spot for onshore fishing and sunset watching. The area is a small cape with a rocky curve that rounds into a secluded bay, thus very peaceful. The fishing pear near Laem Chaichet also serves as a perfect viewpoint.

Klong Prao Beach Klong Prao Beach start where the gently curved Laem Chaichet ends. Coconut trees line the beach and the northern end has a beautiful rocky landscape. A popular night time excursion is the Firefly Tour, where boats ne- gotiate the mangroves along the canal to view sparkling fireflies.

Kai Bae Beach Kai Bae Beach, the last major beach on the west coast, is another great location to watch the spectacular sunset. It

42 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 43 BEACHES

Bai Larn Beach Bai Larn Beach, separated from Lonely Beach by a rock formation extending to the sea. Is a small bay with a coral reef. Both budget bungalows and a 5-star resort are located here.

Bang Bao Beach Bang Bao Beach on the southwestern tip is in a fishing community where residents still live in houses built on stilts above the water. These houses are connected to each other by wooden bridges. Is a well protected bay with a small and quiet beach. There are a growing number of tourist shops, scuba dive outlets and seafood restaurants.

Than Mayom Beach Than Mayom Beach on the eastern side of the island is a good spot to catch the sunrice. The Beach is scattered with rocks and the seafront is muddy. The headquarters of Koh Chang Marine National Park is located in nearby area close to Than Mayom Waterfall.

Kong Kang Bay Kong Kang Bay located on the east coast just before Salak Khok and believed to be the first settlement on Koh Chang. The villagers still maintain their way of life making it another authentic fishing village. Tropical fruits and one of the finest beaches on the east.

Salak Khok Bay Salak Khok Bay, a fishing village with many fishing boats along the canal flanked by mangrove swamps. Is located between Khong Kang Bay and Salakphet, and is a place known for its seafood restaurants. Sunset dinner cruises organized here. Occasionally, firefly tours are arranged, and kayaks are also available.

Salakphet Beach Salakphet Beach on the southeastern tip is, similar to Bang Bao, in a fishing village. Salakphet and nearby Ban Rong Than are two biggest communities on Koh Chang. A monastery know as Atulaporn Banpot and the Salakphet Temple are religious rendezvous for locals. At the south end of the bay is a small beach with a memorial commemorating the sea battle of 1941 between Thai and French navies. 

44 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 45 MU KOH CHANG

hile the global climate has experienced periods of Wboth cooling and warming over millions of years, the climate of Southeast Asia has remained more or First stop to relax... less the same as it is today. This is due to its location around the equator and, being surrounded by ocean providing plenty of moisture in the form of rain, the region was able to sustain consistent rainforests over a „Affordable room, in a idyllic surrounding“ very long period of time. The rain is more evenly distributed throughout the year before discover Koh Chang! along the tropical zone, nurturing equatorial rainforests across South and Central America, Africa, Southeast Bang Pit House Asia and Australia, which were all parts of the same landmass during the last ice age. Then, as the glaciers & Restaurant melted and the sea level rose, many of the rainforests Bangpit House Co., Ltd. became cut off from each other and various species 99/8 Moo 3, T. Bangpit, Laem Ngop, Trat 23120 Call: 087 834 58 50 T/E or 086 908 52 83 E/D Bang Pit established themselves, developing along distinctive e-mail: [email protected] House evolutionary paths in response to local eco-systems www.bangpithouse.com and creating a great diversity of forest eco-systems and unique flora and fauna. Situated in TRAT, the easternmost province of Thailand, very close to the Cambodian border and about 315 km from Bangkok, the 650 sq. km Mu Koh Chang is gener- ously blessed with a biologically diverse paradise and commonly known as the “rainforest by the sea”. The island chain consists of 3 main islands and 49 smaller islands. Koh Chang, Koh Kood (Koh Kut) and Koh Maak, the three main islands, cover 209 sq. km, 105 sq. km and 16 sq. km respectively. Geographically, the islands lie in a straight line from north to south, with Koh Chang positioned about 10km from the coast of Laem Ngop District and Koh Kood located at the southern most point. Koh Maak and its companion islets, such as Koh Rang, Koh Whai, Koh Kham, Koh Kradad, etc., are located in between Koh Chang and Koh Kood. The entire island chain was formed some 65 millions years ago, but from different origins. Koh Chang was part of an undersea volcano that was forced up by seismic activity and formed igneous rock as it cooled. Koh Kood, however, is formed of sandstone and separated from the edge of the Ban- thad mountain range. Koh Maak and Koh Kradard are mainly flat, with only a few small hills, and were formed by an accumulation of sandbars. ■

46 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE Every Friday: EXCLUSIVE PIRATE BEACH PARTY FERRIES TO KOH CHANG

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48 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE www.kontikikohchang.com ACTIVITIES

Elephant Trekking

The word “CHANG” means elephant in Thai. So it seems appropriate o try elephant trekking on elephant sland. Chang Chutiman operate economical and popular elephant trekking to the interior of the island from Klong Prao village. The treks are good opportunity to sample some of the beautiful scenery of inland Koh Chang. Baan Kwan Chang offer elephant treks that take place in an inland valley to the North of he island. To get there turn inland at Klong Son. Pick up you from hotel. Boat Trips

A variety of boat trips are available around the islands. These can be used as means of travel between the islands or simply to go for a day trip of sightseeing or snorkeling. Snorkeling Trips, sea kayaking, sailing trips and island cruises you can booking everywhere on the island. The local base of Gulf Charter Thailand who offer Yachts from 32ft to 52ft you can find in Salak Phet. Bang Bao run a regular ferry service between Koh Chang, Koh Wai and Koh Mak Wild Life

Most of Koh Chang is covered in rain forrest that has been largely undisturbed due of mountainous terrain of the island. There are also good examples of mangrove forest ecosystems where the island’s numerous streams meet the sea. Marine National Park status was awarded to the island chain in 1982 in an effort to preserve the exceptional land and marine environment. The forests of the island support a large range of wildlife. A survey conducted for Thailand’s National Park Service recorded 29 different species of mammal on Koh Chang.

50 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE ACTIVITIES

Canoe & Kayak

For a relaxing trip along the coastlines from Koh Chang Marine National Park, try padding a canoe. Canoes and kayaks can be found along the beaches, or check with your resort, as some resorts offer free kayaking for their guests. Kai Bae Hut on Kai Bae Beach offer Triyaks and tandem kayaks. Plenty o see and explore on a simple kayak. Salak Khok Kayak Station offer Kayak hire and guided wildlife kayak tours around the mangrove forested Salak Khok Bay on the Eastern side of Koh Chang. A choice of day trips are available as well as overnight trips for the more adventurous. Infos about day trips contact local tour offices. The shrine

Leading up a steep road on the west coast to Ao Sapparos, not to far from the pier, you will see he shrine of Chao Po and Chao Po Koh Chang on the right. This is a highly revered shrine especially for the locals. Chao Po Koh Chang (literally the Deity of Kh Chang) has guarded people on Koh Chang, the nearby islands and the mainland of Trat for generations. Fisherman struck by monsoon or lost their directions in the sea put put their faith on Chao Po Koh Vhang. Hiking

The mountainous jungle interior of the island offers some challenging and en- joyable walking. The main road west of Koh Chang from Klong Son to Kai Bae is a popular route. On the northern part of the island, you can walk from Ban Klong Son to White Sand Beach. The best hiking routes are in the southern half of the island since there are fewer roads. Fore those seeking more adventurous hikes, go inland to the steep and forested hills. Shorter hikes to waterfalls from their main entrances are becoming popular. Local guides can arrange special trips and overnight treks.

52 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOHCHANGTHEMAGAZINE.COM

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54 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 55 HIGHEST PEAKS

ost of the area of Koh Chang is mountainous and Mcovered with beautiful tropical forest and several streams. It became national park since 1982. There are several trekking routes. Some are quite long such as Sal- akpetch mountain which will need a local guide. The highest peaks on the islands: Alak Pech Peak (Koh Chang) 743 meters, Khao Yai Peak (Koh Chang) 473 meters, Khao Pantee Peak (Koh Kood) 315 meters, Koh Klum Peak (Koh Klum) 267 meters, Koh Rang Peak (Koh Rung) 203 meters, Koh Mak Peak (Koh Mak) 105 meters. Koh Whai Peak (Koh Whai) 146 meters, Koh Laoya Nai Peak (Koh Laoya Nai Peak) 96 meters. 

56 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE TREEHOUSE The true colors of Koh Chang AMBER SANDS

KOH58 KOH MAK CHANG the MAGAZINE SALAKKOH CHANG the MAGAZINEKOK 59 SOIDAO SOIDAO Khao Soi Dao Wildlife Sanctuary is part of the highest mountain range in southeastern Thailand and forms a large wilderness area.

 Waterfall  Canal Rafting  Border Market  Fruit Market  Wildlife Breeding  Golf  Field Trecking

hao Soi Dao is a very quiet and interesting region Knear the Cambodia Border with many attractions (Pong Nam Rong Canal Rafting, Hot Spring, Soi Dao Highland Golf & Resort,). This is a good place to go birding before or after a relaxing visit nearby Koh Chang, and an opportunity to get to an area of excellent habitat witch is rarely visited by groups of birders. This wildlife sanctuary has a reasonable park infrastructure. Khao Soi Dao Region is not difficult place to get to, in fact it is ideal for people using public transport. From Bangkok to Chantaburi going north to Sa Kaeo, High- way 317. At the 62nd kilometer marker there is a sign with “Khao Soi Dao Waterfall” written in English. Soi Dao is a small town and has a lots of street food at night and a market during the day. For those need- ing to stay, Pong Nam Rong and Soidao, has many resorts with air con room and bungalow’s. The land is made of pilled-up hills with the heights between 500 to 2.102 meters above sealevel. It is cool all year round on the hills. Rains are plenty in the rainy season (roughly May to October) when the weather is fairly cool and wet. In the cold season (October till February) the weather is quite cold, and it could be near freezing on the high peaks.

Contact address: The National Park of Phu Soidao, Telephon: 055 419 234 More information about the region on the local Travel Offices or contact Koh Chang the Magazine. 

60 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 61 RELIGION Soidao Resort & Spa All over Thailand, the visitor will see saffron-clad Buddhist Monks, and hear the soft chanting of Pali scriptures and The thinking of temple bells. Yet a strong thread of animism And superstition persist, as seen in the use of amulets And the presence of spirit houses and city pillars

SOIDAO RESORT & SPA 119/3 Moo 5, Chantaburi-Sakao Road Tambol Saikao, Soidao District Chantaburi Province

Phone: +66 (0)39 421 459

www.soidaoandspa.com

62 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE SOIDAO

 Waterfall  Canal Rafting  Border Market  Fruit Market  Wildlife Breeding  Golf  Field Trecking

KARTE

64 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 65 PLACES OF INTEREST RELIGION

KOH CHANG All over Thailand, the visitor will see saffron-clad Buddhist KaiGerman/Austrian FoodBae - Thai Monks,Cuisine and - ItalianhearMarina the Pizza soft chanting - American of Pali scripturesStyle Steaks and The thinking of temple bells. Yet a strong thread of animism And superstition persist, as seen in the use of amulets And the presence of spirit houses and city pillars ■ This well established Restaurant which can be found on the main road in Kai Bae is Koh Chang Naval Battle Site, located in the southern A squadron of 7 French warchips led by the Lamotte Pi- widely known as one of the best part of Koh Chang. The Trat waters near to Ao salak Phet quet Cruiser, 2 sloops and 4 gunboats invaded in 3 divi- and Ao Salak Khok, also added another page in the Thai sions. The Lamotte Piquet alone made Division 1 blocking Dining Places in Koh Chang. history of fighting for the country’s sovereignty. On 17 the south of Ko Wai and Ko Bai Tang. Division 2 compric- January 1941, the Royal Thai Navy managed to evict the ing 1 sloop and 1 gunboat blocked the channelbetween invaders although we lost a certain number of squadrons Ko Khlum and Ko Wai whereas Division 3 comprising 1 ■ The Menu is based on and soldiers. 17 January has become a memorial day for sloop and 3 gunboats blocked the channel between Ko excellent German/Austrian and the heroic fighting, of which a service is held annually at Khlum and Bang Bao. European Cuisine and a big Koh Chang Naval Battle Memorial in Amhoe Laem Ngnop. selection on Thai Specialties as Ko Mai Si, is a small private island locadet not far from Ko Ngam was the first point of confrontation in the Fran- Ko Kut where there is beautiful nature, sandy beaches well as the best Italian Pizza in co-Siamese War in which the French army sent aircraft and cleat water – home to diversified marine lifeand ideal Koh Chang. on a reconnaissance and bombing of the island, whereas for diving. Various plant species grow wild on the island, Koh Wai is the point where Frenchpatrol aircraft crashed which used to be a confrontation site between the La- after being fired by HTMS Songkla and HTMS Chon Buri. motte Piquet and HTMS Ton Buri that was in commission ■ We are also well known for at Ko Lim. In assisting HTMS Songkhla and HTMS Chon our selection of American Type Buri which were heavily fired and eventually sank near Ao Salak Phet and Ao Salak Khok , the HTMS Ton Buri was Steaks which are prepared in the also hardly attacked, ran aground and sank near Laem traditional way. Ngop. Semi homestay accommodation is available for a We also have a large selection of group visit of 15-30 persons. For more details, please con- imported Beers (Weissbier) and tact TAT office. Draught Beer.

Ao Khlong Son a bay in the northernmost west of the island where Ban Klong Son Community is locadet, with a beautiful coral reef, Accommodation is available. ■ The atmosphere is relaxed with a big Bar in the back Namtok Khlong Nonsi a small waterfall to the northeast where we show movies every of the island accessible by a 3 kilometers pathway from night at 7pm on a big cinema Ban Dan Mai or about 4vkilometers from the national park screen 5m x 3m with surround headquarters. system (live music in the high Hat Sai Yao locadet near Ao Salak Phet to the south of season). the island with a long stretch of sandy beaches where swimming is aviable. Trekking to the naval battle site, as ■ We also show live Sport events on TV. Our friendly staff well as a trip to admire nearby islands such as Ko Lao Ya, will take good care of you to make your stay in our cosy Ao Salak Phet, Ko Wai, etc. establishment as comfortable as possible.

Bang Bao Fishing Village a village of houses on stilts Our Motto is ”You come as a stranger and walk away into the sea with bridges connecting them together. Most as a friend”. We would like to bid you a hearty welcome of the villagers are descendants of the Salak Phet villagers, living a simple way of life and earning their living from at your next visit to Koh Chang and our Restaurant. coastal fishery. With abundant soft cuttlefish and corals. There is a pier, fish dock, and manufacturing of shrimp Opening Hours: 8 am - 11 pm - Kai Bae Marina next to Kai Bae Plaza paste, fish sauce, dried shrimp and salted fish. The area is an ideal berthing area for fishing boats, with a fantastic Telephone: Bang Bao view and good restaurants and small shops. Most popular location for boat trip.s to the other islands.  087 / 044 03 85 66 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE www.kaibaemarina.com KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 67 PLACES OF INTEREST RELIGION

KOH CHANG All over Thailand, the visitor will see saffron-clad Buddhist Monks, and hear the soft chanting of Pali scriptures and CoralThe thinking of temple bells. Yet a strong thread of animism And superstition persist, as seen in the use of amulets And the presence of spirit houses and city pillars

Air Con Hot Water Ban Rong Than a small community located near Salak Ao Bai Lan located next to Hat Kai Bae and accessible Resort Fridge Phet in the southern part of the island It is a scenic view- by a pathway aross the mountain which takes about 1 Satellite TV point where the mist-covered peak of Khao Salak Phet hour, with a scenic view of mountains along the way. Ao in the north and Ko Mapphrao Nai and mountains near Bai Lan has a long stretch of scenic beach ideal for swim- American Breakfast Laem Yai in the east are visible. A panoramic view of the ming and relaxing. Internet Cafe & whole area of Ao Salak Phet is also available from Sam- Super Market nak Song Atulaphon Banpot on the hill. Hat Kai Bae a sloping and long strech of beach connecting with Hat Klong Phrao where swimming is available. There are several bungalows for rent at economic prices also many Top-Hotels available.

Hat Klong Phrao – Laem Chaiyachet a long and sloping beach connecting with Hat Kai Bae where swimming is available. There are serval bungalows for rent with stan- dart rooms and necessary facilities. The northernmost end of Ao Klong Phrao connects with Leam Chaiyachet wit a scenic rocky cape but swimming is not available. VIP BUNGALOW & PARASAIL Ko Chang Noi and Laem Chang Noi located in the north of Koh Chang and housing coral reefs between Leam Chang Noi and Ko Chang Noi.

Ko Man Nok – Ko Man Nai small islands opposite Hat Kai Bae with surrounding beaches at low tides and golden seaweeds in the nearby shallows.

Ko Khlum an island ideal for fishing with a peculiar scenery of rock areas.

Ko Lao Ya a group of islands located to the south of Koh Chang comprising Ko Lao Ya Nai, Ko Lao Ya Klang and Ko Lao Ya Nok, approximately 2-3 hours from Laem Ngop. There are long beaches, clear sea water and beautiful corals, with accommodation available. „Fly High – Stay Dry“ Ko Wai located to the south of Koh Chang near Ko Lao …at the Kai Bae Ya, approximately 2.30 hours from Laem Ngop. It has scenic beaches, as well as large and complete coral reefs Parasail Centre & Enjoy ideal for fishing. The Bay to the north of the island houses coral reefs in a perfect condition whereas the western area of Ao Yai provides home to mostly hard corals and scaly giant clams. Accommodation is available.

Ko Ngam a twin island connected by a large sand bar located to the southeast of Koh Chang, with an inlet sur- Koh Wai rounded by the hilly topography where the sea is calm and scenic  Coral Resort 10/1 Moo 4, Kai Bae Beach, Koh Chang, Trat 23170

68 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE Tel.: 039 557 136-7 - www.kohchangcoral.comKOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 69 KAI BAE BEACH

70 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE LONELY BEACH RELIGION All over Thailand, the visitor will see saffron-clad Buddhist Monks, and hear the soft chanting of Pali scriptures and The thinking of temple bells. Yet a strong thread of animism And superstition persist, as seen in the use of amulets And the presence of spirit houses and city pillars

72 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 73 LONELY BEACH

74 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE BANG BAO RELIGION All over Thailand, the visitor will see saffron-clad Buddhist Monks, and hear the soft chanting of Pali scriptures and The thinking of temple bells. Yet a strong thread of animism And superstition persist, as seen in the use of amulets And the presence of spirit houses and city pillars

Chow Lay Seafood Restaurant Bang Bao Fisherman Village

40/1 Moo1, Ban Bang Bao Koh Chang, Trat 23170

Phone/Fax: 039 558 118 Mobile: 081 917 9084 - 081 940 6097

www.kcchowlay.com email:[email protected]

76 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE GATEWAY Koh Chang is the second largest Island in Thailand. Located: Southeastern region of Thailand, near the border to Cambodia in the Gulf from Thailand. The interior of the main island, is mountainous, covered by tropical rainforest. Land area 650 sq. km. Length 30 km, Width 14 km, Distance from Bangkok 320 km

CLIMATE

The weather is cool and pleasant with plenty of sunshine between November and February and average temperatures hover around 30 C during the months of March and April. During the time of the year when the southwestern monsoon from the Gulf brings rain (mid May to October) The best time for visitors to the region is December to April

FAMOUS BEACHES

White Sand Beach, Ao Klong Prao Kai Bae Beach, Lonely Beach, Leam Bang Bao, Ao Klong Kloi, Ao Salak Phet, Long Beach, Ao Chom Ao Sapparod, Leam Chang Noi, Ao Klong Son.

ACTIVITIES

Scuba Diving, Snorkeling, Swimming, Deep Sea Fishing, Boat-Tours, Island-Round trips, Elephant-Trecking, El- ephant- Trekking Trips

SHOPPING

Small shopping places around the beaches, Bang Bao Fishing Village is a very romantic place you can find a lot of shops with unique souveniers.

ATTRACTIONS

Scenic Waterfalls, Bang Bao Fishing-Village, Mangrove Forest

78 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KAI BAE BEACH GATEWAY

DINING

The islands dining places range from local noodle shop to small European and gourmet restaurants.

TOURIST INFO

Tourist Authority of Thailand TAT office in Laem Ngop. Phone 039-597 258/60 Koh Chang National Park Information, Office Laem Ngop, Phone 039-538 100

MEDICAL HEALTH

Koh Chang International Clinic, part of the Bangkok Hospital group. Phone 039-551 555, located on White Sand Beach. One local hospital located South of where the mainland ferry arrives. Pharmacies on White Sand Beach and Kai Bae offer wound dressing and provide insurance receipts, with English spoken staff. In Trat you can find two larger hospitals such as Bangkok-Trat Hospital – Phone 039-532 735 and Trad Hospital Phone 039-511/2 which are recommended in case of a major emergency.

STAYING

Koh Chang offers a huge variety of accommodation, from super deluxe resorts to low budget beach bungalows. A full list of hotels may be obtained from TAT`s Laem Ngob office and Website: www.tourismthailand.org

80 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 81 GATEWAY GETTING THERE

Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com), owned and operated Trat TOURIST POLICE Airport, located on the Mainland near to Laem Ngnop. From Bangkok`s BY AIR Suvernabhumi Airport direct to Trat Airport. The flight time is 50 min- Tourist Police Station you can find at Klong Phrau next to utes. The airline transfer for passengers from Trat Airport to all beaches the temple. Phone 039-557 287 or 1155 on the west coast of Koh Chang inclusive Ferry ticket with Mini Bus. From 26. Oktober 2008 – 25 March 2009 BKK to Trat: 9.00/11.00/14.45/17.30h Trat to BKK. 10.35/12.35/16.20/19.05h IMMIGRATION Eastern Thailand and its islandscan be easily reached by road The regional immigration office is located on Center at and three regularcar ferries operatete to Koh Chang. BY CAR Laem Ngnob. Phone 039-567261 There are two main driving routes from Bang- kok, both around 310 km long. The first route is to take Highway 3, the Bangna-Trat road. There is a quicker elevated tollway running above Highway 3. Continue until the Chonburi Bypass and here turn off onto Highway 344. Follow EMERGENCIES this road past Ban Bung and when you reach the Klaeng Cross- roads turn back onto Highway 3 and continue on towards Trad. Medical emergency after normal ferry hours Alternatively you can leave Bangkok on the Motorway that is a con- Contact the Koh Chang International Clinic call cen- tinuation of the Rama IX, Sirikarin Road. This road goes onwards and tre on 1719 or Bangkok Trat Hospital on 039- meets highway 344 where you can continue to trad as detailed above. 586 191. Police Station on White Sand Beach, To avoid Trat and go directly to the ferry departure points turn right Phone 039- 551 544, alternative the Tourist Police Phone onto the wellsignposted Leam Ngop road about 20 km outside Trat. 039-557 287 or 1155. Driving from Pattaya take Highway 36 which joins High- The main police station on Koh Chang is at Dan Mai. way 3 heading towards Trat shortly after Rayong.

There are many vans plying between Bangkok and Ao Tham- machat, Center Point or Laem Ngop piers. They are found Khao BY VAN BANKS San Road near the Vieng tai Hotel, departing daily at 8.00 a.m and leaving Laem Ngnob at 11.00 a.m. From Pattaya, daily Koh Chang has ATMs all over the place so drawing cash to the ferries, booking on travel shops around the city. is no problem. Banks and foreign excance services on the main beaches. The Ekamai Bus Terminal is the main terminal for the eastern provinces, which can be reached by the BTS Skytrain/Ekamai Station. BY AIRCON BUS The other station is at the Northern Bus Terminal New Morchit on ANIMAL HEALTH Kampaeng Petch Road. Air-conditioned and ordinary busses depart almost every hour. The trip is about 5 hours. The bus station Lisa McAlonie is the clinics founder. KCAF (Koh Chang at Trat province is around 1 km from the town proper. Visitors can Animal Foundation) is non profitable organization. She of- catch a Taxi to downtown or to the pier. On the way back, catch fers all kind of inoculations and veterinary services. Located a taxi from Ao Thammachat Pier to Trat or to the bus station. in Klong Son on the road leading to Ban Kwan Chang El- ephant Camp, first street left at 7/11 coming from the ferry. See also page 28 All the busses from Ekamai bus terminal and Morchid Bus terminal stop to pik up passengers at Suvernabhumi airport`s bus sta- FROM AIRPORT tion. This is linked to the airport by a free white shuttle bus.

Please check page 48 for details BY FERRY

82 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 83 THAI MASSAGE ▶ Herbal Massage Thailand offers exotic people and culture, wonderful food, beautiful sunsets and fantastic massages. We want to give you an overview of 5 essential areas of massage to spark our interest on one of 5 of the most incredible ancient forms of massage and body relaxation Sima

hai Massage - on of the world`s great massage tradi- Thai Massage Health & Beauty Ttions. A blending of the technique of manipulating the ▶ Oil Massage Herbal Massage – is a traditional type of Thai massage. energy which travels throughout your body(Meridians in According to any recipient, the treatment is a unique ex- Chinese Medicine, Sen Lines in Thai Massage), and the perience. Stretching, acupressure and herbal compresses yoga traditions of India. It is practiced in different forms re- combine to provide the utmost in muscular and mental flecting different schools and traditions. Wonderful for the relaxation. The blend of traditional Thai herbs used in this legs and overall balancing of energy it is performed with massage has a relaxing and simultaneously invigorating the person clothed, without the use of oil. Energy lines are effect on the body and mind. It is soothing sore and over- pressed by the therapist`s thumbs, and then the palms, in worked muscles, while giving a boast for the body`s energy a gentle and complete pattern. After your body loosened level. If necessary herbs can even be custom-blended for up, gentle stretches are done. Different body areas are individual needs, colds, flu other illnesses, etc. Hot com- massaged more than one time, so two hours is not ex- presses are also excellent for stiff, sore or pulled muscles cessively long for a complete treatment. It`s good for tight and ligaments, back pain, arthritis, chronic pain or injury, muscles, low energy levels, disorders of the internal organs, skin diseases, migraines, and chronic stress or anxiety. This type of massage is also known as “Pra Krap”, where the massage is focused on Foot Massage Oil Massage – although the sense of oil massage and aroma- the use chosen herbs wrapped tightly in cloth, steamed, ▶ therapy are originated in the west, Thais have used fragrances and the herbal bundles are then touched or pressed to and herbs for ordinary health care since ancient times. Yow your body. The lessons from the previous styles of mas- will learn how to make uses of bath oriental and western sage will assist in mastering this art. aromas, and western aromas, and learn oil massage techniques, which have been adapted from the well known Thai Traditional Massage. It is imperative that students undergo Head Massage the general Thai Massage Course before taking this course. ▶ A smooth, strong, full-body massage with particular focus on the back, neck and shoulders, combines Swedish and soft tissue techniques, working those areas of your body which carry the most stress – the neck, shoulders, and back. You will be educated in the many Thai herbal or aromatherapy oils, each with its own special healing qualities. The Thai master. A Thai massage is best performed for at least two hours, giving Foot Massage – one of the most common and useful mas- the therapist time to work the whole body. This style of massage areas for people of all walks of life. Foot treatments sage is one we recommend to couples, wishing to rejuvenate often include washing and soaking your feet followed by their own sense of touch. Head Massage – The Face Massage and Head Massage an abrasive scrub to take away any calluses, or dead skin. is a particularly pleasurable experience. Most people will The best known foot massage is called reflexology, in be surprised at the amount of tension they hold here, par- Thailand, it`s is usually done in the Chinese style. Small ticularly around the jaw line. There is not usually time for tools are often used to rub the sides and tops of your toes, a full face and head massage as part of a full-body mas- and the massage is recommended to be very firm. Some sage, so it is relevant that this massage be completed on people find it to hard and even painful, while others love its own, or in combination with a back and shoulder mas- it. Reflexology in Europe and America is different than the sage. There are a variety of different strokes that can be Chinese style, where only hands are used to rub your feet. used, ranging from the most delicate touch with the finger- Sima Massage Besides firm pressing, the therapist will pinch the sides of tips to focused deep-tissue work. All strokes can be var- your feet and use their fingertips to work certain areas of ied in speed and pressure. Keeping your hands relaxed, 48/6 Moo 4 your toes, and the top and bottom of your feet very thor- begin working slowly and rhythmically, gradually building oughly. This method can also be intense but, without the up speed and pressure as you experiment. This massage Klong Phrao Koh Chang stick, less people find it painful. Once again great strength involves pressure points, and the use of pausing to keep is required of the practitioner`s hands. your patient relaxed.  Tel: +66 (0) 81 489 5171

www.simamassage.com 84 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE PROPERTY RELIGION Unspoiled, unhurried and unknown! All over Thailand, the visitor will see saffron-clad Buddhist Thailands second largest island offers Monks, and hear the soft chanting of Pali scriptures and tranquil investment opportunities The thinking of temple bells. Yet a strong thread of animism And superstition persist, as seen in the use of amulets And the presence of spirit houses and city pillars

86 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 87 INTERVIEW PROPERTY INTERVIEW PROPERTY TRANQUILITY BAY RESIDENCE KOH CHANG INTERESTED IN BUYING INTO KOH CHANG'S TROPICAL LIFESTYLE LOOKING FOR A HOUSE OR APARTMENT ON KOH CHANG'S BEST LIFESTYLE INVESTMENT? HERE WE OFFER TRANQUILITY BAY

Interview with Tranquility Bay’s Directors

absolute beach front land available for sale which will guarantee the exclusivity and long term investment potential.

What are Tranquillity Bay Residence future plans and what are your recommendations for Investors?

Firstly, we plan to launch the rental pro- gram for the completed phase whereby the investors can begin to enjoy their profit of their investment. The professional rental Management Company will soon begin to Mr.Simon Martin Mr.Poomhatai Svetasobhana M.L.Nattadis Diskul coordinate with travel agents to promote Tranquility Bay Residence, therefore providing a guaranteed extra income for those investors who only enjoy some much needed recognition from the Thailand Tour- wish to spend one or two months a year living on the island. ism Authority. KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE would like to thank Each year Koh Chang receives more international visitors and Mr. Simon Martin Which types of real estate are interesting and hold the most is often described as a hidden jewel, and I personally believe potential for future appreciation? that in the coming years Koh Chang will rival both Phuket and Mr. Martin, how do you see the past few years with regards to under way. We also plan to complete 2 condominium build- Samui for the tourist dollar and International investment. the Thai real estate industry? ings in Phase 2 by March 2010 and the other phases sched- My personal view uled for development we hope to complete 6-8 months after. is that almost any What are the implications of the current global financial crises The past few years within the real estate industry in Thailand property investment with regards to the Thai property market? have been extremely challenging, as operators and devel- Why did you choose Koh Chang Bang Bao in particular for on the Island of Koh opers have had to spend the majority of their time reducing your project? Chang will be worth- The Thai property market will continue to be adversely af- negative perceptions about Thailand and its unstable political while, due mainly to fected until such time as the political climate returns to a arena. Bang Boa is the beautiful spot with scenic views of the out- the fact that the is- more stable condition. The uncertainty of foreign ownerships laws, and the strong Thai laying islands. The Bang Bao area is very much quieter and land is still relatively The Koh Chang property felt a very immediate adverse reaction Baht have also made selling the Thailand Resort lifestyle very Tranquil than the other end of the island, and having the fisher- undiscovered and to the Airport takeover, and from that moment onwards, sales much more difficult than in previous years, and the continued man village so close nearby is one of the advantages of the has just started to and interest in Resort style development had all but dried up. strong marketing and incentives offered by other Asian coun- development as our investors can fulfill their island lifestyle realize its enormous Combined with the Red shirt versus Yellow shirt war of tries has resulted in a much more competitive marketplace. with easy access to excursions, restaurants, adventure activi- potential for future words, the world economic crisis has made the more ca- ties, etc. growth. sual or impulsive investor more skeptical and cautious. What is the current status of the Koh Chang Project Tranquil- Koh Chang offers a truly genuine Thailand experience, and Compared to the The longer term view is however much more healthy, and lity Bay Residence? for many of the more seasoned travelers, the slow pace and more traditional Thailand will remain a favored second home and tourist Tranquility of the island make it a perfect alternative to the holiday or second destination point, but the Politicians must be mindful not to We have now sold around 50% of the condominium units busier and more tourist orientated destinations. home destinations take too long in Re branding Thailand, as there is increasing within the development. Phase 1 was completed since the It also represents excellent value for money, and we believe such as Phuket or competition from our near neighbors. end of 2008 together including the 30 meter infinity edge our customers will benefit from the continued increase in real Koh Samui, Koh swimming pool located directly on the beach. Construction of estate values. Koh Chang has very strict laws governing how Chang has only Thank you very much and wish you all the best for your Phase 2, including the lobby and beachfront restaurant is now the island can be developed and as such there is very limited recently started to Project and the coming high season. 

88 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 89 RELIGIONKOH MAK AllThe over Family Thailand, Island the visitor will see saffron-clad Buddhist Monks, and hear the soft chanting of Pali scriptures and The thinking of temple bells. Yet a strong thread of animism And superstition persist, as seen in the use of amulets And the presence of spirit houses and city pillars

oh Mak a large Island located in between Koh Chang Kand Ko Kut, approxlimately 38 kilometers from the mainland. It covers a total area of approximately 9.000 rai with the shape of a 4 pointed star. The topography is mostly costal plain with a thicket of coconut groves and rubber plantations. Scenic bays and sandy beaches em- bracing crystal clear water are all around the island such as Ao Ta nit, Ao Prong, Ao Phat and Ao Daeng. Around the shore and nearby islands, there are beautiful coral reefs. October – May is the ideal period for visiting. Boats to Koh Mak depart the Krommalung Chumpon Pier everyday at 11.00 a.m and return from Ao Nit Pier at 8.00 a.m the following day. Moreover, there are speedboats departing at 3.00 p.m and returning from Ao Nit Pier at 8.00 a.m, the following day. Koh Mak Resort provides speed boatsdeparding from the Krommaluang Chumphon Pier everyday at 9.30 a.m and 4.00 pm and returning at 8.00 a.m and 1.00 p.m

90 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE

KOH MAK FACTS BAAN Greetings Location: from the Koh Mak Island is located in the North of the Gulf of Thailand formed by huge mounds of sand piled up under the sea for SABAAY centuries; it is shaped like a four-pointed star. Koh Mak is the Koh Mak mayor of third biggest island in Trat province following Koh Chang and Koh Kut. The serene island of Koh Mak is only 38 kilometers - Restaurant Koh Mak from the North shore of the Gulf of Thailand and 60 kilometers from the provincial town of Trat province. It is 2 kilometers off - Bar the shore of Koh Kut sub-distict (King-Am-Phoe-Koh-Kut) - Internetcafe Area: 16 square kilometers Borders: Koh Mak Internet North: Trat provincial town (Am-Phoe- Mueang Trat) and Wireless HotSpot Provider Laem Ngop district (Am-Phoe-Klong Yai) East: Khlong Yai district (Am-Phoe Klong Yai) Jakrapad Taveteekul South: Koh Kut island Mayor of Koh Mak Sub-district West: The Gulf of Thailand Administrative Organization Attractions: Enjoy the tranquility and local hospitality that attracts thou- any tourist called Koh Mak an "East end sands of visitors to Koh Mak to experience crystal-clear water, the vibrant blue sky, white sandy beaches and colorful fish. Mparadise island", we are proud of thet Do not hesitate to visit the many beaches such as Ao Kao, Ao name and try to maintain the natutre, the se- Suan Yai, Ao Tan, Ao Ta Nid. Ao Pai, Ao Prong, Ao Phad and renety and delightful atmospere of Koh Mak. Ao Daeng – as well as to plunge into the new blue world with magnificent offshore coral reefs under the tropical sunshine. Koh Mak is a perfect hideaway for nature lovers, it is our responsibility to develop the infra- Climate: Koh Mak experiences a typical monsoon climate, with an av- structure together with environment conserva- erage temperature of 28 degrees Celsius. tion. The monsoons typically last from May to October; there are days with short heavy rains followed by sunshine, bringing I wish all the tourists to have a wonderful time some periods of high humidity followed by refreshing rains on Koh Mak and we will try our best to sustain and cool breezes. During the cool season of November to the ecology of the island February there are no rains and the night temperature falls down to 16 degrees Celsius; however, day time temperatures Contact: are very comfortable for tourist during the cool season, which is generally the high season for tourists. The hot dry season stretches from March to April – the rains can sometimes start to come during the end of April to give relief from the tropical Rene: +66 8 1495 94 16 Jakrapad Taveteekul heat. Luckily, the island is surrounded by the sea which brings cool summer breezes to relieve the heat also. Winds blow Jeab: +66 8 5085 03 68 from the southwest during the rainy months of May to October (the “wet season”), with an average rainfall of 150 mm. This [email protected] remarkable annual wind reversal is related to changes in air pressure and temperature taking place above the high Tibetan Plateau. Due to these shifting winds Koh Mak`s climate var- Koh Mak/Trat ies markedly throughout the year. Conditions depend on the direction of the winds in relation to the north-south trending 23120 Thailand mountain system.  Contact for insider tips

92 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE ReneKOH CHANG the MAGAZINE 93 KOH MAK KOH MAK

goodtime resort

discover beautiful thai-villas between two pristine beaches Tel: 039-501-000

relaxing diningliving enjoying

KOH MAK www.GOODTIME-RESORT.com

KOH RAYANG

island resort

experience Robinson-feeling on this private island Tel: 039-501-000

pure nature living

94 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE www.RAYANG-ISLAND.com HISTORY OF KOH MAK

he word “Koh Mak” actually means “the island of betel Tnut trees”, according to local people who said that plenty of tropical betel palms (Areca triandra) have grown here in the past. Although not many of those plants exist today, the story has been passed to the young generation and so the island has been called Koh Mak for decades. Turning a page upon records of a series of Siamese chron- icles in late-18th century, we find that Ko Mak was facing extensive European colonialism. In 1893, during the reign of King Rama V (Chulalongkorn), French troops suddenly seized Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, which were later turned into its colonies. Then France invaded Siam – which then extended up to the Mekong River. Thus Chantaburi province and the islands of Koh Mak, Koh Kut and Pra- chankiriket (Ko Kong) were seized, in addition to the present-day Cambodia territory between the Thailand/Cam- bodia border and the Mekong River, which used to all be part of Siam. The French tried to force the Siamese king to accept it`s conditions after seizing those lands on the 13th February 1903. In 1904, the French imperial powers dictated very oppres- sive conditions to Siam for a peace treaty; Siam unwillingly signed to those terms. This treaty was regarded by Siam as an unfair treaty because it placed Thailand in a subordinate diplomatic position. Finally the French decided to withdraw their troops out of Chantaburi province but not Trat province. Under these difficult circumstances on 23rd March 1906, King Rama V proclaimed his intention to return this province, which had a greater abundance of flora and fauna than the other three provinces of Pratabong, Siamrat and Srisopon under the French imperialistic regime. This period of uncertainty and instability lasted approximately two and half years, The influence and initiatives of King Rama V, who reigned from 1868 to 1910, have been given much credit for Siam`s conciliation with the West during the next half-century. While this was justified, much credit also was due to his minis- ters. Together they blunted the force of Western imperial- ism, which swept over much of the rest of the world during this period; therefore, the Gulf of Thailand remains as seen until today. King Rama V, along with the royal members and his attendants, proceeded to Trat province twelve times throughout his reign, to call on his subjects as well as to seek for recovery of these territories. Those events reflect the great expression of love and passion of the King. Be- sides travelling to Trat, it was also said that Koh Mak was twice admired for its charm and pristine condition by King Rama V and his family. 

96 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE KOH MAK

98 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE ”Elite-Suratthani Calendar 2010” behind the scene by Claude Alain TAILORING

hailand is famous for tailoring. That is way you find tai- Tlors at all popular tourist destinations. Koh Chang is no exception. Fashion Way offer exclusive design for Ladies and Gents. They keep their customers measurements for more 15 years. Thus, allowing you to place mail orders from your home at a reasonable price. The shop can be found on Kai Bae Beach.

102 KOH CHANG the MAGAZINE One of the best Pubs for Dancing & Relaxing

KC GRANDE RESORT & SPA 038-552-111 Ext. 7103, 7105 OR 038-553-103