Journal 2013
The Great Orme Exploration Society
www.goes.org.uk Issue number: 2013 (1) Cost: £5-00 The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013
Hello Readers,
Welcome to issue no. 1 of the 2013 edition of the Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society. And so far we are moving through the year at a fast rate of knots. Steve and team have already completed the Brammock Rod reconstruction work, with just the information boards, and some minor additions left to complete the project. The Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza came and went as a huge success this year with a weekend of glorious weather to suit. We have some news about underground access to the mines of the Gwydyr Forrest, and not too far ahead, this year’s NAMHO conference in Aberystwyth promises to be another interesting gathering, more details of that here should you wish to attend. This year’s GOES Summer walks list has been circulated to members and offers a varied list of evening strolls within the vicinity of the Great Orme. Our underground events never cease to be of great interest to people. Earlier in April, Charlie Davies organised a visitor trip to Ty Gwyn which attracted an excellent attendance of twenty eight people. Other underground features include Dave Wrennall’s thrilling account of the discovery of An Area Beyond Higher Shaft. You can read all about these events, and more, in this issue of the GOES Journal, and perhaps feel inspired to join in with current activities either underground or over ground throughout the coming year. Look forward to seeing you at one of the summer walks.
Best Regards,
Debbie Wareham
Debbie Wareham – GOES Journal Editor 2013
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The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013
GOES Committee and Contact Details:
Chairman: David Wrennall email: [email protected]
Vice Chairman: Brian Edwards email: [email protected]
Secretary: Gareth Davies email: [email protected]
Treasurer: Stephen Lea email: [email protected]
PR Officer: David Broomhead Tel: 01492 549590
Additional GOES Contacts:
Archives Officer: Ali Davies email: [email protected]
Equipment Officer: Gareth Davies email: [email protected]
Journal Editor: Debbie Wareham email: [email protected]
GOES meets informally every Thursday evening in the Kings Head, Llandudno from 9.30pm. All are welcome.
The Great Orme Exploration Society (GOES) was formed in 1985 and became a Company Limited by Guarantee and not having a share capital on 7th April 1999. It is a member of the National Association of Mining History Organisation (NAMHO), British Caving Association (BCA), and works in association with the Gwynedd Archaeological Trust (GAT), the Early Mines Research Group (EMRG) and the Gwynedd bat Group (GBG). Views and opinions expressed are those of the author(s) and not necessarily those of the Society.
Front Cover: Remains of Miners Cottages, GOES Visit to Wrysgan, 2011
Printed and bound by Mapping Company Ltd, Llandudno 01492 877960
© Journal - Great Orme Exploration Society Ltd. and authors, 2013
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The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013
Contents
GOES News and Events p.4
Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza 2013 p.8
Memories of a year’s activities with GOES 2011-2012 p.10
Petrostrat Ltd. Visit to Ty Gwyn April 2013 p.16
GOES and Snowdonia Society Trip to Wrysgan Slate Quarry, 2011 p.17
An Area Beyond Higher Shaft p.25
Providence Pot to Dow Cave p.32
GOES Summer Walks 2013 p.39
A Selection of GOES Photos p.41
The Caving Code p.42
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GOES News and Events
News: Underground Access within the Gwydyr Forest
For many years there has been much deliberation about gaining underground access to the mine workings within the Gwydyr Forest. Such areas are currently off-limits to mine explorers, but the Cambrian Caving Council and other interested individuals have recently been trying to progress this matter towards enabling access, by setting up talks with relevant bodies such as the Forestry Commission, Countryside Council for Wales, and National Trust.
A meeting was held in the Memorial Hall, Pont y Pair, Betws y Coed at 7:00pm on 27th April 2013, to discuss current progress of granting underground access in the Gwydyr. This was attended by forty people representing various caving organisations, and mine exploration societies.
Dave Wrennall from GOES attended the recent meeting, and has provided the following feedback. ‘As things stand, the Forestry Commission appreciate the present situation. They know people are accessing without permission, and have no intention of trying to stop this, but they would like the situation monitored. The Cambrian Caving Council’s Access Officer explained how she is intending to set up a Licensing Agreement between the Countryside Council for Wales and the Forestry Commission. She has already successfully implemented a scheme with the National Trust.’
Developing a license scheme seems to be the way forward and would include the following mines: Aberllyn, Rhiw Bach, Parc, Cae Coch, Hafna and probably Pandora - to be accessed from the Forestry Commission side of the fence subject to a check on various leases, mineral rights etc. Dave goes on to say, ‘It is a case of agreeing the obvious ones to start with, with a view to expanding the remit later.’
‘An ‘application for entry’ form was circulated at the meeting, but it was fully anticipated that as arrangements with groups were often last minute, groups might simply be expected to email intentions to visit a venue then receive an automated reply giving permission. This would of course be subject to everyone carrying a Green Card proving insurance etc.
There may be some merit in proving that reasonable numbers are in fact safely using these venues so that the Forestry Commission will be happy in fulfilling their recreational www.goes.org.uk 4
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In the interim, the British Caving Association Bolting Scheme appears to be happy to provide free bolts. The Local Cave Mine Leader Scheme will assume responsibility for fixed aids deemed to be essential.
The Countryside Council for Wales would also like to have a ‘report back form’ signed and dated, to include the number of visitors, and listing any problems, if any, found at the venue with fixed aids etc. This is a way of monitoring usage, and the condition of the mines used under the licence agreement.’
Thanks to Dave for attending the meeting and providing the feedback. There will be more news about access at Gwydyr as it develops.
GOES trip to Aberllyn, Gwydyr Forest, 2008
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News: The Great Orme Brammock Rod Reconstruction Project
Steve and team have worked really hard on this project over the last few months. The final phase of the main reconstruction work was completed at the end of April when three wooden A-frames with metal heads were fixed in place, then securely concreted into each pit. Some finishing-off work remains to be done, but the overall result of seeing the Brammock Rods back on the Great Orme has been achieved. Steve is now busy writing the project report about the work, and will post this in its entirety on the GOES website for all to read. We will have great delight this summer on the GOES evening walk of 8th August to visit this new heritage feature, at which time Steve can gives us his own rendition of the project, and its heritage value. There is still more to say about the project after completion which we will include in the GOES Journal later in the year. Hopefully there will be a feature about the Brammock Rod project in a local newspaper and we may even get some TV coverage too. What a superb result!
Three Brammock Rod A-frames now in situ on the Great Orme, Llandudno.
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Event: NAMHO Conference Aberystwyth 28th June – 1st July, 2013
Here is information about this year’s conference from Stirling University’s website:
‘Aberystwyth, on the coast of mid-Wales, provides an ideal venue for a conference focusing on the legacies of past mining activity. The University has all the facilities for a full lecture programme with the opportunity to visit many relevant mine sites in its immediate hinterland.
The uplands of mid-Wales are rich with examples of metal mining from the Bronze Age through to the 20th century. Its historic landscape has been moulded by the activities of man over thousands of years and the interpretation of its archaeology, and the environmental and cultural impact, tells a story which is relevant across a much wider area.
This conference brings together mining historians and archaeologists from across Britain, Ireland and further afield to share their research and their experiences, to socialise and to enjoy a rich mining heritage.’
A few GOES members usually attend the NAMHO conference each year. If you are interested to go to Aberystwyth this year, and want to know more about previous conferences, or what to expect, then please contact any GOES committee member and they will be happy help.
Online link to full conference programme:
http://www.stir.ac.uk/cehp/newsandevents/namho-2013/programme/
Or to book on to the conference follow the link to:
http://www.stir.ac.uk/cehp/newsandevents/namho-2013/booking-form/
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Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza 2013
With the date set for the 4th and 5th May, GOES happily settled in to having two days again at the Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza. We used two display tents this year which provided a much roomier exhibition space. This extra area meant the entrance to the Ty Gwyn could be situated slightly within, and towards the front of the general display area.
GOES Display Tents at the 2013 Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza
Additional displays included a feature board about the Brammock Rod project, and a display case with some of the GOES artefacts.
GOES Artefacts in a Mobile Display Case
A number of GOES members and friends attended over the two days, and as usual we www.goes.org.uk 8
The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013 were very busy. An impromptu underground trip into the Ty Gwyn was arranged for two visitors, which Steve was happy to lead. And a thoroughly good time was had by all.
Brian and two visitors eagerly watch Steve descend into the Ty Gwyn
We had glorious weather for both days of the weekend and the north shore and town was crowded throughout.
A surprise visit to the GOES tent on Saturday was made by former GOES member Phil Quigley. Phil was happy to share his memories of GOES with us, and described the exciting moment when they rediscovered the Ty Gwyn on 5th April, 1986. As the JCB broke through Phil Quigley was one of the first people to re-enter the adit since it had been closed off in the mid-nineteenth century; quite a momentous occasion.
At the end of two great days on the prom, we started to discuss what additions we could bring to the display for 2014? In keeping with the Victorian theme of copper mining, we thought it might be fun to dress up as Victorian copper miners, and perhaps develop some live displays of Victorian copper mining practises. We will see how those ideas develop for next year!
Author Debbie Wareham (GOES) www.goes.org.uk 9
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Memories of a year’s activities with GOES 2011-2012
GOES is a diverse and dynamic Society, offering a variety of underground and over ground activities throughout the year. At the same time, we aim to promote Llandudno’s Victorian mining heritage within our local community. Illustrating these qualities, GOES Vice-Chair, Brian Edwards sums up his memories across twelve months in the life of The Great Orme Exploration Society from May 2011 until May 2012.
Once again GOES members continued their under-ground adventures both on and off the Great Orme. From 8th May 2011 until 6th May 2012 thirty four under-ground trips were made. There were many Sundays when we were unable to get a team together, but these were unavoidable, and largely due to injuries, work or holidays; but considering the size of our underground team, I think we did quite well.
The Ali series was the least visited of our mines this year with only one visit. Romans wasn’t much better with only three visits, but even so, new areas in the Roman’s lower system, accessed via the Treweeks shaft, were found with a bit of digging; even a new route to the Visitor Centre was discovered!
Dave Wrennall surveying in the Ali Series
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Of continuing interest is a trip by recent member, geologist Alan Williams. Alan took samples at various points around the mine and by various modern analytical techniques hopes to specifically identify Great Orme copper in European Bronze Age artefacts. I for one look forward to seeing the results of Alan’s work in the future.
From left to right: Gaz, Dave, Ange, and Alan - about to descend Romans shaft.
August 31st 2011 and the Ty Gwyn mine was the midweek venue for a group of invited guests. Imagine Steve’s and my surprise when we found that the main adit was completely blocked under Hill Terrace! I was quite impressed when Steve, quite unperturbed and hardly pausing in his commentary, led the group back to the cross-cut and by-passed the blockage! We started to clear the blockage in early December and to date have spent eight Sunday’s on this task. To my shame, I predicted we would clear it in two! Although some work is still needed, the way through is clear and as an added bonus we now have a new shaft to admire too!
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First look at the collapsed shaft in Ty Gwyn, 2011
Nine trips have been to Penmorfa. All but one has been to the higher areas of Rift 3 where our intrepid team continue to dig their way upwards into new areas. Dave Wrennall has more on this story in his Penmorfa Chronicles. The odd trip out was when GOES hosted a Friday night trip to five members from the Portmadoc Climbing Club. I expect they found crawling through the 170m of three foot diameter drainpipe and wading down the adit a bit different from their usual activities, but I’m sure it was memorable! They said they enjoyed it! I should also mention that at the same time Steve was showing other, not so adventurous, members of the club some smaller trials on the West Shore side of the Orme, but I won’t go into details……….!
In mid-June 2011 an attempt was made to locate and access Ogof Edric on the Great Orme near the lighthouse. The natural cave was found, but as access was difficult, and within a Site of Special Scientific Interest, the project was discontinued.
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Seven off-Orme trips were made. Two natural cave systems were visited, Jock’s Pot in the Brassgill Gorge at the back of St Asaph, and Ogof Nadolig near Cilcain.
Debbie in a tight corner in Jock's Pot.
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Three of the other trips were to slate mines; the through trip in Rhiwbach near Cwm Penmachno, and two trips to Wrysgan near Ffestiniog. The first Wrysgan trip was to recce a route in readiness for when GOES would guide 16 members of the Snowdonia Society up through the mine in the following September of 2011.
Members of the Snowdonia Society entering Wrysgan slate mine
Of particular interest this year was the news of successful negotiations which will allow individuals who hold BCA insurance free access to mines on Forestry Commission property in Wales. Possibly we’ll have even more holes to explore soon!
GOES was also busy on the exhibition front. Exhibits still remain at the Rest and Be Thankful Café on the Marine Drive, and also in the Sea Horse restaurant on Church walks. Artefacts in the restaurant of the Kings Head have now been removed and are now part of the GOES collection. GOES was also invited to exhibit at the Llandudno Museum from the beginning of March until the end of May.
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All fourteen summer walks in 2011 were well attended, and in the main the weather was kind to us. Let’s hope this trend continues for future summer walks.
The GOES exhibition gazebo was at its’ usual spot near the Ty Gwyn entrance on the Saturday and Sunday of the Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza. Once again great interest was shown, with a steady flow of visitors throughout the day. Following a recent survey of Llandudno’s first pier, the results of which were displayed in the exhibition, a guided walk of the site was conducted at low water; fortunately this coincided nicely with when we took down our display at the end of each day.
All said that was a busy year for GOES. I wonder what this year will bring.
Author Brian Edwards (GOES)
Traversing a shaft in Rift 3 Penmorfa
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Petrostrat Ltd. Visit to Ty Gwyn, April 2013
In April, 2013, Charlie Davies (GOES) arranged a visitor trip to Ty Gwyn for Petrostrat Ltd. Sports and Social Group. Twenty eight visitors plus various GOES members attended.
Once equipped with safety helmets and head lamps, Gaz Davies (GOES) gave the group a general introduction to Ty Gwyn from the surface. The group was split into three smaller groups for their tour. With mine leaders Steve, Gaz and Charlie, the groups descended into the mine.
The tour included the usual haunts – coffin level, meeting point of the glaciers, Ty Gwyn Shaft and flooded lower worked levels, inclines etc.
Pumping Rods at the Base of the Ty Gwyn Shaft
Some people had only brought walking boots to wear. And despite having wet feet 2hrs later after trawling through the water in the Ty Gwyn adit everyone emerged smiling from the mine having had a great time.
GOES does not charge for organising visitor trips into the Ty Gwyn, yet further to the visit, Petrostrat sent a generous donation to us which will go towards GOES general funds. Thank you to Petrostrat for the donation.
Here is a link to Petrostrat Ltd for more information about what they do: http://www.petrostrat.com/
Anyone wanting to visit the Ty Gwyn as a visitor should contact any GOES committee member who would be happy to arrange this. Author Debbie Wareham (GOES) www.goes.org.uk 16
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GOES and Snowdonia Society Visit to Wrysgan Slate Mine, 2011
Each autumn the Great Orme Exploration Society is host to leading an underground trip for the Snowdonia Society. These events are usually well attended by both the Snowdonia Society and GOES members, and 2011’s trip was no exception with sixteen members of the Snowdonia Society and seven members of GOES in attendance to visit the Wrysgan Slate Mine. GOES leader for the day was Steve Lea, with the six remaining GOES members providing additional support.
What do we know about the history of Wrysgan?
Wrysgan slate mine is located on the east face of Moel-yr-hydd, a 648m Snowdonia summit lying just above Tanygrisiau. With the entrance tucked away high above the crags of Craig y Wrysgan, the most noticeable feature identifying the presence of this slate mine to the oblivious traveller below, is the unusual incline which rises steeply up the mountainside only to disappear into a rocky tunnel at the summit. This incline was built in 1872 as a later addition to the mine workings to replace an earlier counter balance incline that descended down the eastern side of the workings to Cwmorthin – the rest of the journey to Tanygrisiau being made by pack horse. Indeed the steepness of the mine’s location suggests it was not an easy mine to work, and although it is only a small mine, it is certainly impressive; a quality which is enhanced by its obscure location and lofty views across the southern Snowdonia hills.
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As an operational mine, Wrysgan had a chequered history. Despite many failed companies trying to extract slate from here, the mine kept working, somewhat intermittently, from the early 1830's, up to the mine’s final closure in the early 1950’s. Highest productivity was around 1904, with 3,000 tons of slate being extracted with the employment of 100 men working across eight levels. By the 1930’s only thirty men were employed in the mine, falling to twelve at the time of closure in the 1950’s.
Once removed from the mine the slate had to be cut and dressed. Two mills were built, the first in 1854, and the second at a lower level in 1865, housing in total 18 saws, including one hunter, twenty dressers and two planes. Various methods were used over the years to power the mills and up-haulage system within the workings – water, steam engine, gas engine, and electric motor engine. Each method was less than ideal incurring high financial costs, and bringing performance limitations, in this less than ideal working environment.
Splitting and Dressing the Slate circa 1890
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A miner’s Life
The quality of life enjoyed by a quarryman and his family in 1873 was described as simply wretched. At that time a four-week budget for two adults and five children was given as follows (this was described as the minimum that a family could live on):
Payments £ s d £ - p Rent 2/6 (12½p) per week 10 0 50p Bread 2 0 0 200p Coal 12 0 60p Meat 8 0 40p Potatoes 7 0 35p Clothing 12 0 60p Butter 3 lbs @ 1/6 (7½p) per week 1 0 0 100p Milk 2 0 10p Sugar 3 lbs @ 4d(2p) per week 4 0 20p Tea 1½ lbs 4 6 22.5p Candles 1½ lbs @ 4d (2p) per week 1 4 7p
Total 6 0 10 604.5p
The average wage of a quarryman in 1845 was only 15/- (75p) per week. Following the increased demand for slate between 1856-70 wages had increased dramatically. And by the 1860's, a quarryman's wage was one pound and 5 shillings (125p) a week. Indeed by 1870, a quarryman could earn as much as one pound thirteen shillings (165p) or six pounds and twelve shillings over a four week period.
Miners were plagued by ill health such as stomach disorders, hernias, and respiratory diseases. Accidents occurred often and medical assistance was crude. Large mines such as Llechwedd had their own hospitals which may have given support to smaller mines such as Wrysgan. In 1893, mortality for those employed in the dressing sheds (at Blaenau), where slate dust was highest was estimated at 47.9 years. Mortality of engine drivers and plate layers who were least exposed to slate dust was estimated at 60.3 years. In 1905, a widow was paid £200 on the death of her husband by accident at Penrhyn quarry. The quarrymen and some doctors were fully aware of how slate dust was killing them. However, Dr R.H. Mills Roberts (1862-1935), who was quarry doctor at Dinorwig from 1893-1914, considered this occupation to be very healthy, and that slate dust did not exist at the Dinorwig Quarries to an injurious extent. Dr J. Bradley Hughes, doctor at the Penrhyn Quarry Hospital in 1922, went so far as to state, www.goes.org.uk 19
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‘ We have no case of Silicosis in this quarry of which I am aware, and I became convinced after four years' experience here that Slate dust is not merely harmless but beneficial and I would challenge anyone to prove otherwise’.
The quarrymen of north Wales, unlike the miners in the coal industry, had to wait until 1979 for any compensation from the London government. It was only granted then because a general election was imminent and too late for the vast majority.1
83 0's, Quarrymen
The 2011 Visit to Wrysgan
GOES and Snowdonia Society members met in the small car park above Tanygrisiau which is mostly used today by walkers, or by climbers to access the climbing crags underneath Moel- yr-hydd. It was raining heavily and quite windy. Once everyone was equipped with safety helmets and head lamps, the group made their way up the track and across the footbridge to the base of Craig yr Wrysgan. We walked uphill for about 20 minutes to one of the five open adits of the mine. The start to our journey began with ease – sturdy waterproof boots or wellies, warm, comfortable clothing and the reassurance of knowing that we were only going to be in the mine for a couple of hours. All was peaceful. But that was a far cry from the world of the Quarrymen. One could only begin to imagine the noise, hardship, and danger that those men had to endure on a daily basis, with no hope of an escape. How despairing that must have been for them. www.goes.org.uk 20
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GOES and Snowdonia Society Members before entering Wrysgan mine
Our route in Wrysgan for today would begin at the entrance to floor one then we would slowly make our way up to floor six, and our exit.
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Entering Wrysgan at the entrance to floor one
Making our way along the floor one adit
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After ten minutes of walking, the floor one adit suddenly opened out into a massive cavern. Large boulders of rock and debris lay strewn on the floor. On the far left hand side of the cavern was an extensive slate staircase, which would take us up to the next floor. As we meandered through the higher tunnels we noticed various items that had been discarded by the miners which now served a new function as in-situ heritage artefacts. It was eerily quiet, and to think 150 years ago this mine was a hive of activity exporting slate all over the world.
Steve telling the history of Wrysgan to the group We continued to scramble our way up through six floors, fixing ropes for security when needed. Tunnels opened out into caverns, and at times we had to find our way through narrow gaps between fallen boulders. It was an awesome experience; thoughts about the toughness, and resilience of the miners who worked these mines were never far away.
Using a rope for security on a steep section of rock
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Eventually, after 250ft of ascent, through a narrow opening, we could see daylight. We emerged out onto a grassy bank with views down to Blaenau and Trawsfynnydd.
Descending through debris with views of Blaenau in the background
Our descent took us past the derelict buildings where the slate had been worked and the cottages where the miners had lived. The former Cwmorthin Quarry was visible on the other side of Llyn Cwmorthin. As we returned to the cars, the rain continued to pour. It had certainly been a good day to be underground.
Author Debbie Wareham (GOES)
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An Area Beyond Higher Shaft On 17th July 2011 a team were at the bottom of Treweek’s Shaft and took the opportunity to have a dig at an area of fallen rocks, and copiously flowing infill, long regarded as Higher Shaft aligning as it did with several approximate positions, at other levels.
Over the years, there had been stories of blackness being seen after digging here and strong draughts felt, but collapses had always occurred. On this occasion attacks with a scaffolding pole, and then more subtle ice-axe excavations led to the creation of a small hole along the solid left wall. One rock hid what lay ahead, though pictures from a camera sent in on a stick suggested an opening lay beyond. The same rock appeared crucial in holding up the higher rubble. A decision was taken to leave well alone, and come back soon with a barrel. The team included Gareth Davies, Richard Fletcher, Dave Wrennall, Sion Jones, Dave Flowers and Angela Gawthorp.
Sion attacking the dig
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A fragile opening and the crucial rock
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We returned the following Sunday, at which time further clearing to the left, and below, the critical rock resulted in no collapses, but allowed the insertion of the plastic barrel. Previously unreachable rocks could now be removed in comparative safety. We were soon able to crawl through into a low ‘first chamber’ and just beyond, to stand up in an impressive ‘main chamber’.
Looking back towards the barrel
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The first chamber
Further exploration found several passageways, which turned out to be blind or looping back. We had a good voice connection back to the dig, down a 5m shaft, a metre square, but it was nothing like the proportions expected of Higher Shaft. Nearby jumbles of larger broken rocks which slowed our upward progress suggested greater openings lay close. Then at the southern end of the workings numerous mauls and copper impregnated bones were found, an intact clay pipe was also unearthed. The final investigation was of a tight crawl hidden in a side passage. Rocks on the floor suggested nobody had been through here in recent times. Once the ‘Flower-press’, named after its first incumbent, was negotiated, a series of walkable passageways led easily to workings at Great Orme Copper Mine. The team included Gareth Davies, Richard Fletcher, Dave Flowers, Dave Wrennall and Brian Edwards.
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Pipe, maul and bones
The Number’s Game….
The ‘new workings’ discovered on 24th July 2011 lie between Location 25 (near Base- Camp) and Locations 31/32 (near Vivian’s).
The closest survey point in Location 25, number 12 is 91.0m AOD.
The closest survey point in Location 32, number 55 is 93.4m AOD.
This fits with our initial impression, that of a small gain in height along the length of the exploration.
In Captain Vivian’s Report of 1854 he states that, ‘Higher Shaft has been crushed between the 60yd (54.8m) and 90yd (82.0m) levels, but that they have put in a firm sollar (collar) beneath the crushed part, to protect the lower workings’. He explains the shaft is not needed because there is a 41yd (37.5m) cross-cut to Treweek's Shaft at the 110yd (100.5m) level.
Vivian’s calculations have some credibility:
1) The cross-cut recorded as running east off Treweek's Shaft at the 76yd level (69.5m) corresponds neatly to the 69m level we access today immediately above the now flooded section, that is the passage running east to the chain ladder. NB. The passage running south on the same level towards Base-Camp is not mentioned. www.goes.org.uk 29
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Fitting Area Beyond Higher Shaft into the surveys
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2) The 50yd (45.7m) level cross-cut to ‘Lester’s workings’ also ties in neatly with our Wagon gate level at 45m.
It seems very likely that the depths given for the Higher Shaft workings correspond to the levels measured off Treweek’s Shaft so as to avoid confusion underground. Otherwise the 110yd (100.5m) level off Treweek’s would equate to a 93yd (85.5m) level accessed down Higher Shaft as it was situated some 15m lower down the Orme.
NB. This would be even more likely following the collapse of Higher Shaft, its lower workings being accessed largely from Treweek’s Shaft.
As the top of Treweek’s is at 166.0m AOD and Higher Shaft approximately 15m lower, its collapse can be calculated to have occurred between 111.2m AOD and the 84.0m AOD.
We can see that our dig at approximately 93.0m AOD could have cut through the collapsed area of Higher Shaft.
NB. If depths were actually calculated from the top of Higher Shaft itself and not Treweek’s Shaft the collapse would lie between 96.2m and 69.0m AOD, effectively below our dig.
Interestingly we explored some workings 8.0m or so directly above the breakthrough point, i.e. 101.0m AOD. Unfortunately there are no heights available on Andy Lewis’ plans for the section of ‘Higher Shaft’ accessed from Owen’s Shaft but the approach level is 106m AOD, so it would suggest we may not be far from breaking into this ‘Owen’s’ area.
Also of interest is the possibility that the protective sollar may be just 11.0m or so below the breakthrough. Perhaps a way down into substantial workings awaits discovery?
Whilst we found no evidence that our successful dig took us beyond Higher Shaft, it undoubtedly existed somewhere in the vicinity. Further scrutiny may reveal more. Whatever the outcome, the discovery of these ‘new workings’ together with that of a third way to the Great Orme Copper Mine complex will be remembered as a significant event in Great Orme exploration, and proves yet again that she still has her secrets.
Author Dave Wrennall (GOES)
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Providence Pot to Dow Cave
Close to Kettlewell in the Yorkshire Dales lies a true subterranean marvel. Providence Pot is 250ft higher than Dow Cave, and over a mile away in a totally different valley, but getting from one to the other is possible, and has become one of Britain’s classic caving expeditions. The remarkable connection between the two caves, Dowber Gill Passage, made by water action along a fault-line in the limestone, appears on the survey as a simple, 1km long, straight line, however, it fails to show the intricate and at times exasperating problem of finding the best route within the numerous high rifts, as there is no continuous route at any one level.
Dow Cave-Providence Pot Survey
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The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013
Becoming familiar with both ends before attempting a through trip is strongly recommended. One description is of an ‘endless nightmare of squeezes; frictionless, bottomless rifts; crumbling shale ledges; boulder chokes; mud; and cold, cold, deep water’. Another says follow the stream way until each blockage and then simply climb up, over, and back down. Whichever account you prefer, it’s definitely worth remembering that a lot of the easier walkable route becomes impassable during wet weather necessitating additional long and exhausting traverses and one section that would have been a straightforward duck, sumps completely. Apparently despair leading from frustration, fatigue and a sense of isolation can often set in. Unsurprisingly the location has regularly assumed number one spot in the cave rescue statistics.
Location of Dow Cave and Providence Pot
My first encounter with this epic journey was made in August 2011 whilst on a walking holiday with my wife Nia, it involved several days of investigation whilst enjoying the comforts of a boutique B+B in nearby Grassington.
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The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013
Providence…
On August 10th after a very wet morning and following a quick stop for sustenance at The Race Horse hostelry in Kettlewell, I attempted, after reading a notice board, to find Dow Cave without a map. Apparently the landscape artist Turner had a local guide take him there in 1816 whilst on a tour of Yorkshire; perhaps I should have done the same! In error we wandered up a rough track that eventually led us high up onto the moors, no sign of a cave tucked into the anticipated picturesque valley. With the parking ticket running out we needed to retrace our steps, but not before I had checked out an earlier path signed ‘Providence Pot, 1 mile’. This followed a lovely stream through rocky terrain, towards a hidden valley cut deeply into the hillside. I had to turn back as there wasn’t enough time, but I was content in knowing at least where one entrance lay, even if I hadn’t reached it!
Dow…
On the following day the rain had eased by the afternoon and we were able to admire the flooded River Wharf during a circular walk from Kettlewell to Starbotton (quick drink at the Coach and Horses) and back. As we arrived at the car, showers were becoming more persistent. Despite the deteriorating weather I resolved to make use of some spare time to find the elusive Dow Cave, having checked out its correct location on a map. A sporty drive up the scenic Coverdale road for a mile or so brought us to the nearest access point, the foot of a 1 in 4 hill where there was a good lay-by.
Leaving Nia to read the paper I left in the pouring rain. ‘Half an hour should do it, ten minutes there, ten minutes to explore and ten back, I’ll be careful, I promise’. A stile led over the wall taking me onto a good path running up alongside a swollen stream. Eventually there was a confluence and I was thankful to discover a bridge over the main flow and was soon gazing at the vegetated cliff face entrance of Dow Cave. Unfortunately I was still on the wrong side of a substantial minor tributary, much of which emanated from the boulders below the cave. My boots had minimal grip on the wet limestone; even with poles, rock hopping wasn’t an option, the quickest and safest way was to accept wet feet. Once across, a polished clamber up to the right hand side of the scar revealed the spacious opening into Dow Cave.
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The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013
Dow Cave approach, entrance hidden
Blurred view from Dow Cave
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The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013
If Turner had entered the cave to sample the atmosphere and draw some inspiration from the light as it penetrated the darker recesses then all I can say is he was probably there on a sunny day, in less of a hurry and not wearing glasses; mine were constantly fogged up, the steam from my body completely ruined what might have proved artistic photographs. To add to the discomfort a feeble mini-torch spent much of its time held in my teeth, as my hands were needed on the slippery rocks due of the constant threat of falling into a black river flowing in the ‘walkable stream way’. It looked seriously deep, froth on higher ledges testament to it having been even higher. Remembering my promise to stay safe, I didn’t dare venture far and was soon outside and negotiating the way back. Although the elements had restricted exploration I had seen the light at the end of Dow Cave.
Sketches drawn by Turner in 1816 are available at the Tate online:
http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/turner-the-entrance-to-dow-cave-near-kettlewell- d11314
Contemplation…
Next day there was more rain and plenty of time to read through Northern Caves Volume 1, ‘Wharfdale and the North East’. I engrossed myself in the trip, even taking short notes which got progressively longer; there being a lot of intricate details. My instinctive choice of starting at Providence, it being higher, would apparently have been a good one; the Dow exit is a clean-washed, refreshing, pleasant experience unlike the muddy, sweaty thrutch out of ‘Provie’.
OK so I didn’t actually do the trip, but I did find both ends (well practically), and I certainly enjoyed learning about it. Perhaps I’ll get there eventually, who knows? In the meanwhile there are plenty of articles on the internet adding many anecdotes to the succession of crawls, walks, squeezes, climbs and wades that make up Dowber Gill Passage, but I wouldn’t want to put you off too much.
A Providential Encounter…
Six months later, on February 14th 2012, a snowy Valentine’s Day walk with Nia over the moors via Capplestone Gate starting from Coniston, just happened to descend into the valley containing Providence Pot. The entrance, on a square of concrete, lay just below a major confluence on a small island in the stream. Swinging back the metal lid I was able to clamber down scaffolding in a walled shaft to some 20ft below stream level from www.goes.org.uk 36
The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013 where a damp limestone cleft continued out of sight.
Although the unexpected link between Dowber Gill Beck and Dow Cave had been known about for several years following dye tests, the eventual entrance close to the disused Providence Lead Mine was a real ‘gift from God’ being discovered in 1954 following a crucial observation; less water appearing to flow from a pool than was entering it. Exploration from both entrances led to a connection at the aptly named ‘Bridge Chamber’ the following year.
Dowber Gill Beck
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The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013
Providence Pot entrance
Looking Down Looking up
Being born in 1955, the same year as the through trip became possible I find myself increasingly intrigued by this striking cave system; hopefully I will get the opportunity to do the full journey sometime in the future.
Author Dave Wrennall (GOES)
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The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013
GOES Summer Walks 2013
It’s time to dig out the walking boots, dust away the cobwebs, and pack the waterproofs. The GOES summer walks programme is about to start. And here are the details.
Date: Walk: Meeting Place:
30th May Great Orme Gun Site (steep) and Monk's Path, Concrete Road car park (toll on Marine Drive) (SH755 840)
6th June Vardre and Deganwy Castle All Saints Church, Deganwy (SH783 790)
13th June Pen Dinas Hillfort, Ski Slope car park (SH782 830)
20th June Summit of the Little Orme, Somerfield car park, Penrhyn Bay (SH818 816)
27th June Nun's Walk and Bodysgallen Obelisk, Car park off Marl Lane (SH800 786)
4th July Pwllycrochan Woods, Colwyn Bay Pwllycrochan Avenue, by the tree in the road (SH842 786)
11th July Pen y Gaer Hillfort; Continue up past the Bull at Llanbedr-y-Cennin. Turn left after 0.8 miles. Park on grass road side (SH749 697)
18th July Complete circuit of Parc Wall, New parking area above St Tudno's Church (SH769 836)
25th July Little Orme Memorial Llandudno Promenade, at the Little Orme end (SH840 822)
1st August Zigzag Path and Haulfre Gardens Kings Head (SH778 827)
8th August Bishop's Quarry, Ffynnon Gogarth and Brammock Rods Parking at Water Board building (SH771 831)
15th August St Tudno's Churchyard Car park above St Tudno's Church (SH769 836)
22nd August Flying Foam Wreck West Shore, by the Dale Road car park (SH773 816)
Must do walks for this year are the Brammock Rods on 8th August, Little Orme Memorial on 25th July, and the Flying Foam on 22nd August. Extra details about these three walks will follow nearer the time, via email, and in the North Wales Weekly News. www.goes.org.uk 39
The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013
All walks start at 7pm and are usually gentle strolls which last approximately 2 hours. Sturdy footwear is recommended. Some paths can be steep in places. Please check the community news section in the North Wales Weekly News every Thursday, which will provide full details of the walk and the arranged meeting place. If the weather is poor, it is very likely that the walk will be postponed until a later date. It is a GOES custom to pay a visit to the Kings Head after all walks, to restore energy levels.
Remains of Flying Foam Wreck, West Shore, Llandudno, February 2013
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The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013
A Few GOES Photos
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The Journal of the Great Orme Exploration Society 2013
The Caving Code:
1. Get the basic gear: Helmet, lamp, warm clothing, spare lighting, insurance. 2. Always get permission from the owner: If in doubt, ask the local group; always leave the site secure and follow the 'country code', close the gates. 3. Tell someone where you are going. How many, which mine and where, time in, out and home-contact; if overdue contact CAVE RESCUE 999. 4. Never go underground alone or intoxicated: The minimum number is four, one to stay with the casualty and two to go for help. Alcohol or drugs in you, or one of the group, compromises the safety of the entire group. 5. Do not exceed your capability: Do not over estimate your skills and endurance; and remember it is always more difficult coming out against gravity. 6. Do not get lost: Take a reliable plan or guide from the local group. 7. Never climb on mine ladders or machinery: If it is rotten you will not defy gravity for long, but you will accelerate at 32ft/sec/sec. 8. Never climb on stacked or dead walls: They may collapse around you like a house of cards; take care. 9. Never fool around underground. It might be the last thing you do for yourself or your mate(s), or they do for you. 10. Do not spoil the mine environment: Take your rubbish home, leave artefacts in situ, leave bats and other flora/fauna alone. Do not smoke. 11. Know your emergency self-help drills: Don't panic; apply first aid to save life (bleeding, breathing, consciousness) prevent deterioration (shock, hypothermia) and promote recovery (reassurance, and go easy on the gallows humour); stay with the casualty while two of you go for help. 12. Access to the mines on the Great Orme is controlled, but is available to caving groups or individuals via the Great Orme Exploration Society Ltd. Arrangements for guided access can be made with the Society Secretary. 13. TAKE only photographs, LEAVE only footprints, KILL only time.
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