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Fac-Similé D'ebisu 49 Études japonaises Dossier De chose en fait : la question du milieu Articles issus du colloque de Shin-Hirayu Coordonné par Augustin Berque Varia | Nicolas Baumert – Peut-il exister des terroirs du saké ? Conférences de la MFJ | François Macé – Le Kojiki, une Énéide longtemps oubliée ? | Patrick Beillevaire – Présences françaises à Okinawa : de Forcade (1844-1846) à Haguenauer (1930) Livres à lire 、 printemps-été 49 2013 EBISU 、 49 printemps-été 2013 Directeur de la publication : Christophe Marquet Comité de rédaction : Guy Faure, Jennifer Hasae, Hélène Le Bail, Christine Lévy, Christophe Marquet, Arnaud Nanta, Laurent Nespoulous, Thierry Ribault. Secrétaire de rédaction : Hélène Le Bail Comité éditorial : Jennifer Hasae, Hélène Le Bail, Mikasa Maki, Nozawa Joji. Secrétaire éditorial : Jennifer Hasae Comité scientifique : Natacha Aveline (CNRS), Patrick Beillevaire (CNRS), Augustin Berque (EHESS), Robert Boyer (CEPREMAP), Laurence Caillet (U. Paris X), William Clarence- Smith (U. de Londres), Florian Coulmas (DIJ), Alain Delissen (EHESS), Nicolas Fiévé (EPHE), Harald Fuess (U. de Heidelberg), Carol Gluck (U. de Columbia), Jacques Gravereau (HEC), Hirota Isao (U. Teikyō), Annick Horiuchi (U. Paris-Diderot), Ishida Hidetaka (U. de Tokyo), Jacques Jaussaud (U. de Pau), Paul Jobin (U. Paris-Diderot), Kawada Junzō (U. de Kanagawa), Christophe Marquet (INALCO), Miura Nobutaka (U. Chūō), Nicolas Mollard (U. de Genève), Jacqueline Pigeot (U. Paris-Diderot), Karoline Postel-Vinay (CERI), Massimo Raveri (U. Ca’Foscari), Jean-François Sabouret (CNRS), Cécile Sakai (U. Paris-Diderot), Éric Seizelet (U. Paris-Diderot), Pierre Souyri (U. de Genève), Bernard Thomann (INALCO), Joël Thoraval (EHESS), Yves Tiberghien (U. British Columbia), Elisabeth Weinberg de Touchet (U. Lille I), Pierre-Étienne Will (Collège de France), Claudio Zanier (U. de Pise). Mise en pages : Jennifer Hasae Éditeur et propriétaire du titre : Bureau français de la Maison franco-japonaise ◎ 3-9-25, Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0013, Japon ◎ Tél : (03) 5421-7641 ◎ Fax : (03) 5421-7651 ◎ E-mail : [email protected]◎ Site web : http://www.mfj.gr.jp/publications/ebisu/. Revue soutenue par l’Institut des Sciences Humaines et Sociales du CNRS La revue Ebisu, fondée à la Maison franco-japonaise en 1993, publie des textes en langue française dans le domaine des études japonaises. Elle est classée B par l’AERES depuis 2008. Indexations, référencements : AERES, Bibliography of Asian Studies, International Political Science Abstract, Le Monde diplomatique, Réseau Asie. En ligne : Retrouvez tous les anciens numéros d’Ebisu sur le portail internet Persée : www.persee.fr/web/revues/home/prescript/revue/ebisu Soumission des articles : Voir les instructions aux auteurs sur le site web : www.mfj.gr.jp/publications/ebisu/ Avertissement : Les articles sont publiés sous la responsabilité scientifique de leurs auteurs après examen anonyme par des rapporteurs que nous remercions pour leur collaboration. Note sur les transcriptions : La transcription du japonais en rōmaji adoptée dans Ebisu suit le système Hepburn modifié. Les voyelles longues sont indiquées par un macron. Les mots d’origine japonaise tombés dans l’usage courant en français (c’est-à-dire les mots répertoriés dans les dictionnaires de langue française généraux et dont la signification est sans équivoque pour tout locuteur français non japonologue) sont orthographiés comme des mots français lorsqu’ils apparaissent dans une phrase française (on écrira ainsi : des judokas, Tokyo, saké, etc.). Imprimé au Japon © 2013, Maison franco-japonaise ISSN : 1340-3656 、 Sommaire Varia Peut-il exister des terroirs du saké ? Nicolas Baumert ............................................................. 5 Dossier De chose en fait : la question du milieu Articles issus du colloque de Shin-Hirayu Coordonné par Augustin BERQUE Présentation Augustin Berque ........................................................... 33 Témoignage : les souvenirs de M. Sōkejima Eguchi Kumi ............................................................... 37 L’horizon de la logique lemmique Kioka Nobuo ............................................................... 41 Tétralemme et milieu humain : la mésologie à la lumière de Yamauchi Augustin Berque ........................................................... 57 La raison-cœur des co-suscitations paysagères : les fluctuations du paysage entre corps, lieu et langage Nakamura Yoshio .......................................................... 73 Un essai d’interprétation de la raison des choses selon Yamanouchi Tokuryū : l’appel fait à la philosophie bouddhique Frédéric Girard ............................................................ 91 Conférences de la Maison franco-japonaise Le Kojiki, une Énéide longtemps oubliée ? François Macé ............................................................. 117 Présences françaises à Okinawa : de Forcade (1844-1846) à Haguenauer (1930) Patrick Beillevaire ....................................................... 133 Livres à lire Comptes rendus ............................................................... 167 Bernard Frank, Démons et jardins. Aspect de la civilisation du Japon ancien, Paris, Collège de France, Institut des hautes études japonaises, 2011. Claude Hamon (dir.), Entreprise et société dans le Japon d’avant-guerre. Regards croisés sur les mots et les idéologies de l’industrialisation autour de l’ère Meiji, Arles, Philippe Picquier, 2011. Michel Wasserman, Claudel Danse Japon, Paris, Classiques Garnier, coll. « Études de littérature des xxe et xxie siècles », 23, 2011. Shinobu Chujo, avec son équipe (Tetsuro Negishi, Atsushi Ode, Nobutaka Shinonaga), introduction de Jacques Houriez, Chronologie de Paul Claudel au Japon, Paris, Éditions Honoré Champion, coll. « Poétiques et esthétiques xxe-xxie siècles », 2012. Recension ....................................................................... 187 Jérôme Ducor et Helen Loveday, Le Sûtra des contemplations du Buddha Vie-infinie. Essai d’interprétation textuelle et iconographique, Turnhout, Brepols, 2011. Ouvrages reçus ................................................................. 189 Résumés 要旨 Abstracts ........................................................... 193 Peut-il exister des terroirs du saké ? Nicolas BAUMERT* En tant que boisson de civilisation, qui renvoie à un territoire et à des paysages, le saké est volontiers décrit comme le vin du Japon. Cette analo- gie peut même être une des traductions du mot nihonshu 日本酒 (Baumert 2006 : 98), et un regard extérieur, en particulier français, voit aisément se dessiner derrière les bouteilles et les savantes calligraphies des étiquettes, des terroirs de rizières ou de montagnes enneigées. La région de Niigata, par exemple, en fait un véritable produit de marketing en insistant sur la qualité de son eau, et les exportateurs usent souvent de cette image exotique pour leur promotion à l’étranger1. Mais existe-t-il vraiment des terroirs du saké ? La réponse n’a rien d’évi- dent, car le mot terroir – terme à l’origine des législations sur la qualité des produits agricoles en France et qui présuppose une relation entre origine géographique et qualité – est loin de s’appliquer naturellement au saké. Tout d’abord, le concept, qui n’a pas de traduction directe en japonais, est plutôt ambigu en français et ses définitions divergent selon les auteurs comme nous le verrons. Ensuite, contrairement au vin qui a été un des * Université de Nagoya, chercheur associé à l’UMIFRE 19 MAEE-CNRS MFJ. 1. Un exemple parmi d’autres est le site internet www.niigatasake.com qui indique à propos de la qualité de l’eau : « The reason that the Prefecture of Niigata produces the finest sake in the world can be summed up in one word: snow ». Site consulté le 7 juillet 2012. Ebisu 49 | printemps-été 2013 | p. 5-29 6 | Nicolas BAUMERT | Peut-il exister des terroirs du saké ? premiers produits à bénéficier en France d’une législation fondée sur ce pré- supposé2, le saké est une boisson qui fait intervenir nombre d’ingrédients dont le principal, le riz, est aisément conservable et transportable. Enfin, la législation japonaise actuelle n’accorde pas véritablement d’importance à l’origine géographique des ingrédients du saké. La question pourrait donc être close. Pourtant, avec la crise des ventes et l’apparition de nouvelles régions de production, loin des traditionnels centres de production du Kansai, le débat s’engage avec pour but de séduire à nouveau, d’une part, les consommateurs japonais, exigeants et souvent blasés par l’abondance de produits de qualité disponibles, mais aussi, d’autre part, les consommateurs étrangers. La problématique d’une définition de terroirs du saké se place ainsi dans celle, plus large, d’un retour des consommateurs des pays développés à des produits d’origine, qui se manifestait déjà au Japon depuis la fin des années 1990 et qui, dans un contexte post 11 mars 2011, prend soudainement une dimension de sécurité et de traçabilité. Pour bien cerner les enjeux de la mise en place de terroirs dans le contexte japonais, nous proposons une étude géohistorique du saké, partant de la mise en place des premiers territoires de production jusqu’aux expériences actuelles. Le saké est une boisson géographique encore mal définie, dont les critères de qualité sont aujourd’hui remis en question par de nouvelles demandes des consomma- teurs, ce qui permet de s’interroger sur la pertinence de la notion de terroir appliquée à cette boisson. 2. En France, la réglementation sur les signes d’origine
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