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Downloaded From IP - 124.253.136.240 on dated 3-Oct-2016 84 can beeffectivelyovercome by Computer-aided is thebiggestconstraintforanyapplicationwhich significantly thescenario. Presently, changed time now thetechnologicaldevelopmentshave and designintricacies,loosingtheformetc.,but knitted fabricsearlierhaddrawbacksinpatterning articles hasbeenutilizedforcenturies.Though tomanufactureshapedandformfitting (Brackenbury 1996).Theuniquecapabilityof varying from T-shirts toformaljackets underwear toupperandlowerbodygarments garments suchassocks,caps,glovesand part ofhumanbodywithinawiderange processes forproducinggarmentsthatcoverevery **Professor, Deptt.of and Apparel Textile PAU, COHSc, Science, Ludhiana. *M.Sc. Student,Deptt.of and Apparel Textile PAU, COHSc, Science, Ludhiana. [email protected] Email: Corresponding Author’s Knitted red andcreamwerethemostpreferredcolours. colour combinationfollowedbytwoandthreecombinations.Skin, with mediumlengthand V-shape Multicolouredcombinationwas themostpreferred necklines. respondents preferredtobuyknitwear were awareofknitweardesignsand51.3percent respondents weregraduates,belongingtonuclearfamilies.Seventypercentofthe from threecolleges ofLudhiana city. ofthestudy revealedThe results majorityofthe that data from80femalerespondentsbetweentheagegroupof20to30yearsselectedrandomly their colourcombinations. An interview schedulewas After thattwodifferentdesignplacementswerepreparedofthe10mostpreferredmotifsand to finalizethe10colourcombinationsofselectedmotifsfordevelopmentdesign. motifs, threecolourcombinationsofeachmotifweredevelopedandagainshownto20judges developed CorelDraw through 13andshown to10panelofjudges. After theselectionof for thepreparationof Ghumar MandiandCollege PAU ofHomeScience, studying selectedfor were thepreferences colleges inthecitynamelyGuruNanakGirlsCollege, Model Town; KhalsaCollege for Women, judges comprisingfaculty ofCollege ofHomeScience,PAU, Ludhianawasselected. Three carried outinLudhiana city. For theselectionofmotifsandcolourcombinationspanel The investigation entitledKnitwear productdevelopment using Key Words: Knitting isoneofthemostimportant Revival of INTRODUCTION , Kurties Department of Apparel and Textile Science,College ofHomeScience Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana-141004(Punjab) kurti. J KrishiVigyan2015,3(Special Issue):84-88 Kasuti,Kurti,C Traditional motifsof Through ComputerAidedDesigns Kasuti K Kaur*andDKaur** kurtis ABSTRACT omputer-aided design, Revival. Embroidery Motifsin . Readymade embroidery motifsonthebasisofconsumers’ develop theknitwearproductsusing designing, sothepresentstudywasconductedto gradually takingmomentumintheeraoftextile state.embroidery ofKarnataka As CADis Kasuti Dasuti are the people.ThebestknownembroideriesofIndia optimization ofadesign. assist inthecreation,modification,analysis,or al asreportedby good qualityproduct Anbumani design CADwherelesstimeisrequiredtoachieve kasuti (2001). CAD istheuseofcomputersystemsto (2001). Embroidery reflectstheculturaltraditionsof Kashida ofHaryana,

ofBengal, prepared forthepurposeofcollecting prepared embroidery were selected,plateswere were embroidery of . kurtis kasuti ofKashmir, werethemostpreferred kasuti DOI: 10.5958/2349-4433.2015.00042.2 embroidery and70percent Chikankari mirror work embroidery motifswas embroidery Kasuti Phulkari isthetraditional ofUttarPradesh, of Gujarat and ofGujarat pista ofPunjab, green, kurtis Kasuti et www.IndianJournals.com Members Copy, Not for Commercial Sale

Downloaded From IP - 124.253.136.240 on dated 3-Oct-2016 placements ofdesignonthe preferred motifs.Thethird stageincludedthe selection ofcolourcombinations ofthemost embroidery motifs.Thesecondstagewasthe included theselectionoftraditional conducted infourstagesi.e.thefirststage with M9 01.8 10 2.2 4 3 6 10 & 7 D Green& flower butta B (M19) (M29) between 20-30years,forknitwear preferences of80femalerespondents,aged An interviewschedulewasemployedtostudythe designs placementsandembellishmentson preferences formotifs,colourcombinations, *Weighted MeanScore-WMS *W-Kendall’s coefficient ofconcordance Bele asana Bele pattiBorder Bele kamal Murgi butta Murgi butta (swan butta) Hansa asan Zondiga simbi Bele butta Murgi kamal Bele Patti Motifs Distribution andweightedmeanscores(WMS)ofselectedpaneljudgesaccordingtotheirpreferencesforcolour 2. Table The studywas undertaken inLudhiana city. MATERIAL ANDMETHODS kasuti combinations ofknitted I e,1 2.4 3 6 11 Red, A - III M)C (M2) M)APrl,1 2.4 2 8 1.5 10 11 Purple, 8 A 1 Yellow (M1) E (M3) I(2)FMgna4881.8 8 8 G 4 D Magenta II(M13) F IV(M20) M2 re 2.0 7 6 7 Green& F (M22) M1 1.7 9 8 3 & B (M11) embroiderymotifs.Thestudywas M)E (M6) colour Base re 2.1 7 5 8 Green 2.3 1.9 C 4 8 1.8 6 6 8 2.4 10 6 8 3 Purple & 4 6 Purple H G 11 1.4 C Magenta 14 G 4 2 Yellow C e 11.6 2.1 11 2.0 4 7 6 10 2 2.5 6 8 Red& 3 Blue 6 B 4 2.5 H & 13 3 1.6 Magenta G 4 10 H 13 8 2.5 Red 2 1 Blue, A 9 10 B Red A 1.9 7 1.8 9 9 4 7 & 4 Green E E re 01.6 10 9 1 Green F 2.0 9 8 5 & F e 4512.7 1 5 14 Red& F ra 3432.5 3 4 13 Cream I J KrishiVigyan2015,3(Special Issue):84-88 kurtis kurtis oi oorII III II I Motif colour and aet 5232.6 3 2 15 Magenta Selected re,051 1.3 15 5 0 Green, kurtis

en2881.5 8 8 2 reen fourth stage kasuti made kurtis Kaur and . re fpeeec M Colour W WMS Order ofpreference Identification ofcolour combinations effectiveness ofthedeveloped determination ofconsumeracceptanceandcost dealt withthepreparationof for thedevelopmentof these tenplacementsofdesignswereconsidered placements ofdesignsweredevelopedandout colour combinations were selected. Twenty motifs, thetenmostpreferredmotifsandtheir and showntoapanelofjudges.Outthese thirty motifswerecollected,platesprepared The preferencesofrespondents regardingthe RESULTS ANDDISCUSSION kurtis III III III III III III III III III III II II II II II II II II II II I I I I I I I I I I . kurtis .6 G 0.16* A 0.24* 0.19* 0.36* 0.25* 0.21* 0.17* 0.38* 0.19* 0.19* . A totalof kurtis selected (n=20) G C A A A H F I and 85 www.IndianJournals.com Members Copy, Not for Commercial Sale

Downloaded From IP - 124.253.136.240 on dated 3-Oct-2016 86 designs while42.5percent oftherespondents respondents wereawareof computerizedknitwear whereas, fig.2showsthat57.5percentofthe 30 percentoftherespondentswerenotaware respondents wereawareofknitweardesignswhile embroidery Awareness ofknitweardesignsand the cases. found tobesignificantat5percentlevelinall Kendall’s coefficient ofconcordanceandwas of agreementamongthejudgeswasanalyzedby selected fortheproductdevelopment.Thedegree colours withaweightedmeanscoreof2.40was of skincolourandmotifpurple,redgreen of 2.70wasselectedandfor red andbluecolourswithaweightedmeanscore base oflightyellowcolourandmotifgreen, for with aweightedmeanscoreof2.30wasselected, colour andmotifofmagentapurplecolours weighted meanscoreof2.50wasselected. colour andmotifofredpurplecolourswitha Simbi FlowerButta mean scoreof2.60wasselected,for of greenandmagentacolourswithaweighted Bele Butta weighted meanscoreof2.50wasselected,for colour andmotifofredgreencolourswitha development, for mean scoreof2.40wasselectedfortheproduct red, greenandyellowcolourswithaweighted combinations, baseofskincolourandmotif Patti developed. Itwasfoundthatforthemotif motif threedifferentcolourcombinationswere selection of10mostpreferredmotifs,foreach motif colourhave beengiven intable2. After the colour combinationsalongwithbaseand of 2.50was selected, for of yellowandcreamwithaweightedmeanscore Bele Kamal weighted meanscoreof2.50wasselected,for motif ofgreenandmagentacolourswitha selected, for colours withaweightedmeanscoreof2.40was colour andmotifofblue,greenmagenta Murgi Butta In fig.1,itcanbeseenthat70percentofthe For III(M29,)fromthethreecolour Murgi Butta (M2) baseofcreamcolourandmotif (M3)baseofmagentacolourandmotif Hansa Asan II(M13)baseofpinkcolourand Murgi Kamal IV (M20)baseof (M22)baseof Bele Patti Border J KrishiVigyan2015,3(Special Issue):84-88 (M11)baseofskin Bele Asana (M19)baseofskin Revival of pista kasuti pista (M1)base Zondiga green green (M6) Bele Kasuti kurti was V-shaped andthelengthof centre paneldesignplacement.Thenecklineof Patti was inskincolourandthemotifused placement ofdesignatneckandbottom.The medium. Thebaseof Simbi FlowerButta colour andthemotifusedinthis to embellishthe colour andlaceofredgreenwasused attached ontheknittedfabric.Braidofgreen was madeontheflatknittingmachineand Knitted fabricwasusedforthe line sleeved, A of themotifweregreen,redandblue.Itwasafull cream. the motifusedinthis with fullsleeves. was V-shaped anditwas amediumlength are green,blueandmagenta.Thenecklineof sides ofthe of the cut withknitteddesignatthetopandhemline colours. Thesleevesofthe with motif with motif Details ofthedevelopedknitwearkurtis embroidery computerized knitweardesignsand Awareness regardingknitweardesigns, respondents werenotaware. embroidery while48.75percentofthe cent oftherespondentswereaware were notaware.Thefig.3showsthat51.25per and themotifusedinthis (M patch wasusedonthe length was atneckandsleeves.Itafullsleevedshort in purpleandredcolours.Theplacementofdesign Embroidery 3 Kurti Kurti Kurti Kurti Kurti Kurti ) withcolourcombinationofyellowand III(M kurti kurti D D D D D D Bele Patti Border Bele Butta with V-shape neckline.Knitdesigned 6 4 kurti 3 29 – – 2 5 1 –Thiswasa was round.Thedesign onboth –Itwasafullsleeved –Itwasafullsleeved – ) in red, green andyellow colours. green ) inred, Kurti Kurti i.e.frontandback.Stone of green This wasa kurti. kurti (M D D kurti kurti 6 4 22 (M was acreamcoloured was acreamcoloured kurti. ) andthecoloursofmotifs with V-shapeneckline. 2 ) ofgreenandmagenta kurti was inmagentacolour was kurti (M kurti kurti kurti inskincolourand Hansa Asan kurti 6 was ) andthecolours in wereumbrella and thedesign pista was Bele Kamal kurti kurti kurti Zondiga Kasuti kasuti green kurti (M kurti kurti kurti kurti with with Bele was 11 ) www.IndianJournals.com Members Copy, Not for Commercial Sale

Downloaded From IP - 124.253.136.240 on dated 3-Oct-2016 placement ofdesignwasonlyatfront. with cutatbottomandhadroundneckline.The green colours.Itwasafullsleeved, A line utn 417 - 79 1.75 67 Weighted Mean Score-WMS V 1 54 cent per 5 at *Significant 5 1.90 8 — 1(1.25) 5 1(1.25) 46 — was usedtoembellishthe 7 71 colour andhandembroideryofmagenta 7 3 14 — Kendall’s coefficient ofconcordance W=0.025* 6 71 Figures inparenthesesindicatespercentages 2 Beads 2 — 7 1 5 IV 21 4 Glass tubes 2 8 2.51 19 3 Mirror work 3 6 5 37 37 Buttons 20 4 — 19 7 Piping/ Binding 14 5 1 8 Ribbons 6 7 10 V Frills 13 16 15 Braids IV 10 13 13 III 30 Hand embroidery II Sequins I Stones Decorative materials Embellishments/ Table 3.Preferencesofrespondentsforembellishment/decorativematerial.(n=80) back thenthefrontandalso onthesleeves.Itwas colours wasused.Thedesign wasmoreatthe green, motif Kurti Kurti Murgi Butta Murgi Butta D D 8 7 – –This The basecolourof IV(M II(M kurti 1.5 2.0 87)(.5 (46.25) (12.50) (8.75) (18.75) (23.75) (8.75) (16.25) (10.00) (20.00) (16.25) (16.25) (12.50) (37.50) 12)(.0 (3.75) (5.00) (1.25) (17.50) (7.50) 62)(.0 (8.75) (7.50) (57.50) (2.50) (17.50) (6.25) (2.50) (8.75) (7.50) (10.00) (6.25) 20 13 was inpinkcolourwith ) inmagentaandpurple J KrishiVigyan2015,3(Special Issue):84-88 ) was ofmagenta and kurti . Odro rfrneWMS Orderofpreference kurti 37)(6.25) (3.75) (5.00) (3.75) was Kaur and kurti pista 2.0 2.5 (26.25) (23.75) (25.00) (.0 5(6.25) 4(5.00) (M with purple,redandgreen motifof motif It was afull sleeved and atsleevesinordertoembellishthe Magenta colourstoneswereusedonfront,back a mediumlength kurti sleeves. Itwasafullsleeved, V-shaped neckline 19 Kurti Kurti ). Theplacementofdesignwasatneckand 1.0 (67.50) (10.00) . 12)(98.75) (1.25) (88.75) (1.25) (46.25) (6.25) 62)(83.75) (6.25) (78.75) (8.75) (88.75) (2.50) Bele Asana D D 9 10 –Thebaseof –The 962)12 - 1.25 6986.25) (M 315 - 1.51 63 kurti kurti kurti 1 ) ofredandgreencolours. having V- shapeneckline. with V-shape neckline. was inskincolourwith kurti .1- - 1.01 1.30 - - 1.24 II 1.29 III 2.56 2.53 I 3.30 was inskincolour Murgi Kamal Ranks kurti . 87 www.IndianJournals.com Members Copy, Not for Commercial Sale

Downloaded From IP - 124.253.136.240 on dated 3-Oct-2016 88 the respondentspreferredtobuyknitwear computerized knitweararticleand70percentof was alsofoundthat57.5percentpossess designs and respondents wereawareofcomputerizedknitwear as 57.5percentand51.3ofthe 70 percentwereawareofknitweardesignswhere most preferred.Majorityoftherespondents,i.e. were takenforselectedmotifsandskincolourwas ten. Themostpreferred10colourcombinations Butta Butta Zondiga SimbiFlower Bele Patti Border namely at waistlevelnearsideseam. The placementofdesignwasatcentrepaneland The studyrevealedtenmostpreferredmotifs IIand Bele Kamal kasuti Murgi Kamal CONCLUSION , Bele Patti embroidery , respectively. , embroidery It , Bele Asana J KrishiVigyan2015,3(Special Issue):84-88 III, were ranked were oneto , Bele Butta Murgi Butta , Hansa Asan Revival of , kurtis Murgi IV, Kasuti , . developed designswereP kurtis prepared designsforthefinaldevelopmentof embellishments. Regardingplacementsof and glasstubeswereleastpreferred were themostpreferredembellishmentswhilefrills combinations. Stones,lacesandhandembroidery followed bytwocolourandthree preferred colourcombinationbytherespondents Likewise, multicolouredcombinationwasthemost whereas the consumersonbasisofsuitabilitydesign Anbumani BalakumarSandKandharvadivu N, P(2001). A P Brackenbury T (1996). Brackenbury T Embroidery 15 , P Blackwell Scientificpublications,London. review knittingtechnology. ofcircular Received on21/2/2015Accepted16/3/2015 18 , therespondentspreferencesfor10final andP kurti D 20 . All the . All 4 wasthemostpreferred REFRENCES Knitted Clothing Technology kurtis 1 , P 3 , P were accepted by Ind TexJ 5 , P 8 , P

112 9 , P kurti : 141-46. 12 . Pp.2. , P . 13 ,