DOI: 10.5958/2349-4433.2015.00042.2 Revival of Kasuti Embroidery Motifs in Knitted Kurties Through Computer Aided Designs K Kaur* and D Kaur ** Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana-141 004 (Punjab) ABSTRACT The investigation entitled Knitwear product development using kasuti embroidery motifs was carried out in Ludhiana city. For the selection of motifs and colour combinations panel of judges comprising faculty of College of Home Science, PAU, Ludhiana was selected. Three colleges in the city namely Guru Nanak Girls College, Model Town; Khalsa College for Women, Ghumar Mandi and College of Home Science, PAU were selected for studying the preferences for the preparation of kurti. Traditional motifs of kasuti embroidery were selected, plates were developed through Corel Draw 13 and shown to 10 panel of judges. After the selection of motifs, three colour combinations of each motif were developed and again shown to 20 judges to finalize the 10 colour combinations of the 10 selected motifs for the development of design. After that two different design placements were prepared of the 10 most preferred motifs and their colour combinations. An interview schedule was prepared for the purpose of collecting data from 80 female respondents between the age group of 20 to 30 years selected randomly from three colleges of Ludhiana city. The results of the study revealed that majority of the respondents were graduates, belonging to nuclear families. Seventy per cent of the respondents were aware of knitwear designs and 51.3 per cent aware of kasuti embroidery and 70 per cent respondents preferred to buy knitwear kurtis. Readymade kurtis were the most preferred kurtis with medium length and V-shape necklines. Multi coloured combination was the most preferred colour combination followed by two colour and three colour combinations. Skin, pista green, red and cream were the most preferred colours. Key Words: Embroidery, Kasuti,Kurti,Computer-aided design, Revival. www.IndianJournals.com Members Copy, Not for Commercial Sale design CAD where less time is required to achieve Downloaded From IP - 124.253.136.240 on dated 3-Oct-2016 INTRODUCTION Knitting is one of the most important good quality product as reported by Anbumani et processes for producing garments that cover every al (2001). CAD is the use of computer systems to part of human body within a wide range of assist in the creation, modification, analysis, or garments such as socks, caps, gloves and optimization of a design. underwear to upper and lower body garments Embroidery reflects the cultural traditions of varying from T-shirts to formal jackets the people. The best known embroideries of India (Brackenbury 1996). The unique capability of are Kashida of Kashmir, Phulkari of Punjab, knitting to manufacture shaped and form fitting Kantha of Bengal, Chikankari of Uttar Pradesh, articles has been utilized for centuries. Though Dasuti of Haryana, mirror work of Gujarat and knitted fabrics earlier had drawbacks in patterning Kasuti of Karnataka. Kasuti is the traditional and design intricacies, loosing the form etc., but embroidery of Karnataka state. As CAD is now the technological developments have gradually taking momentum in the era of textile significantly changed the scenario. Presently, time designing, so the present study was conducted to is the biggest constraint for any application which develop the knitwear products using Kasuti can be effectively overcome by Computer-aided embroidery motifs on the basis of consumers’ Corresponding Author’s Email: [email protected] *M.Sc. Student, Deptt. of Apparel and Textile Science, COHSc, PAU, Ludhiana. **Professor, Deptt. of Apparel and Textile Science, COHSc, PAU, Ludhiana. 84 J Krishi Vigyan 2015, 3(Special Issue) : 84-88 Kaur and Kaur Table 2. Distribution and weighted mean scores (WMS) of selected panel of judges according to their preferences for colour combinations of knitted kurtis (n=20) Motifs Base Selected Order of preference WMS W Colour colour Motif colour I II III selected Bele Patti- III A Red, 11 6 3 2.4I A (M29) B Green & 7 10 3 2.2II 0.21* C Yellow 2 4 14 1.4III Murgi kamal A Red 10 9 1 2.5I A (M19) D & 6 4 10 1.8II 0.25* E Green 4 7 9 1.8III Bele butta(M2) C Magenta 15 2 3 2.6I C E & 4 9 7 1.9II 0.36* F Green 1 9 10 1.6III Zondiga simbi B Blue, 2 8 10 1.6III G flower butta(M22) F Green & 7 6 7 2.0II 0.19* G Magenta 11 6 3 2.4I Hansa asan A Red 13 4 3 2.5I 0.24* A (swan butta)(M11) B & 3 8 9 1.7III C Purple 4 8 8 1.8II Murgi butta IV(M20) F Magenta 4 8 8 1.8III 0.16* G G & 10 6 4 2.3I H Purple 6 6 8 1.9II Murgi butta II(M13) D Green 2 8 8 1.5III H F & 5 8 9 2.0II 0.19* H Magenta 13 4 3 2.5I Bele kamal(M3) E Yellow 1 8 11 1.5III I G & 6 8 6 2.0II 0.19* I Cream 13 4 3 2.5I Bele patti Border(M6) E Green, 0 5 15 1.3III F F Red & 14 5 1 2.7I 0.38* www.IndianJournals.com II Members Copy, Not for Commercial Sale H Blue 6 10 4 2.1 Bele asana(M1) A Purple, 10 8 2 2.4I A Downloaded From IP - 124.253.136.240 on dated 3-Oct-2016 B Red & 2 7 11 1.6III 0.17* C Green 8 5 7 2.1II *Weighted Mean Score-WMS *W-Kendall’s coefficient of concordance preferences for motifs, colour combinations, dealt with the preparation of kurtis and designs placements and embellishments on kurtis. determination of consumer acceptance and cost MATERIAL AND METHODS effectiveness of the developed kurtis. A total of thirty motifs were collected ,plates were prepared The study was undertaken in Ludhiana city. and shown to a panel of judges. Out of these An interview schedule was employed to study the motifs, the ten most preferred motifs and their preferences of 80 female respondents, aged colour combinations were selected. Twenty between 20-30 years, for knitwear kurtis made placements of designs were developed and out of with kasuti embroidery motifs. The study was these ten placements of designs were considered conducted in four stages i.e. the first stage for the development of kurtis. included the selection of traditional kasuti embroidery motifs. The second stage was the RESULTS AND DISCUSSION selection of colour combinations of the most preferred motifs. The third stage included the Identification of colour combinations placements of design on the kurtis and fourth stage The preferences of respondents regarding the J Krishi Vigyan 2015, 3(Special Issue) : 84-88 85 Revival of Kasuti Embroidery colour combinations along with base colour and were not aware. The fig. 3 shows that 51.25 per motif colour have been given in table 2. After the cent of the respondents were aware of Kasuti selection of 10 most preferred motifs, for each embroidery while 48.75 per cent of the motif three different colour combinations were respondents were not aware. developed. It was found that for the motif Bele Patti III (M29,) from the three colour Awareness regarding knitwear designs, combinations, base of skin colour and motif of computerized knitwear designs and kasuti red, green and yellow colours with a weighted embroidery mean score of 2.40 was selected for the product Details of the developed knitwear kurtis development, for Murgi Kamal (M19) base of skin Kurti D1 – This was a kurti in pista green colour and motif of red and green colours with a colour and the motif used in this kurti was Zondiga weighted mean score of 2.50 was selected, for Simbi Flower Butta (M22) and the colours of motifs Bele Butta(M2) base of cream colour and motif are green, blue and magenta. The neckline of kurti of green and magenta colours with a weighted was V-shaped and it was a medium length kurti mean score of 2.60 was selected, for Zondiga with full sleeves. Simbi Flower Butta (M22) base of pista green Kurti D – It was a full sleeved kurti with colour and motif of blue, green and magenta 2 colours with a weighted mean score of 2.40 was centre panel design placement. The neckline of selected, for Hansa Asan (M11) base of skin kurti was V-shaped and the length of kurti was colour and motif of red and purple colours with a medium. The base of kurti was in magenta colour weighted mean score of 2.50 was selected. and the motif used in this kurti was Bele Kamal (M3) with colour combination of yellow and For Murgi Butta IV (M20) base of pista green cream. colour and motif of magenta and purple colours Kurti D – This was a kurti in skin colour and with a weighted mean score of 2.30 was selected, 3 the motif used in this kurti was Hansa Asan (M ) for Murgi Butta II (M13) base of pink colour and 11 motif of green and magenta colours with a in purple and red colours. The placement of design weighted mean score of 2.50 was selected, for was at neck and sleeves. It was a full sleeved short Bele Kamal (M3) base of magenta colour and motif length kurti with V-shape neckline. Knit designed of yellow and cream with a weighted mean score patch was used on the kurti.