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Tax Evasion Alleged Dolce, Gabbana Indicted in Probe By Luisa Zargani MILAN — In the latest go-round between fashion designers and crusading Italian authorities, Stefano Gabbana and Women’s Wear Daily • Monday, November 22, 2010 • $3.00 Domenico Dolce have been indicted for WWD alleged tax evasion, sources said. The designers now may have to face a court trial, which would be the latest step in a case that began in 2008 and which could result in the designers, if they are found guilty, being personally liable for more than $1 billion in unpaid taxes and fines. Dolce and Gabbana have always denied any wrongdoing. The designers are charged with tax evasion and abuse of rights relating to the 2004 sale of the Dolce & Gabbana and D&G brands to the designers’ Luxembourg-based holding company Gado Srl. A spokeswoman for the company could not be reached at press time. According to a legal source, the ball is now in the hands of the designers’ lawyers and in those of the judge who will preside over preliminary hearings. The latter will evaluate the evidence provided by Milan-based prosecutor Laura Pedio and has the option to dismiss the case if the evidence doesn’t justify moving forward. /3 TODAY Vince Camuto Adds Sportswear/4 EXCLUSIVE: The powerhouse footwear brand signs a deal with Chaus to expand into sportswear as a step toward turning Josephine Chaus the brand into a and Vince Camuto lifestyle label. Pre-fall Arrives/6 Fashion: Looks from Armani Collezioni, Etro, Just Cavalli and Escada. Hermés’ Surprise Guest/2 News: At the opening of the brand’s store on the Left Bank in Armani See the Leight Paris, Salma Hayek, wife Collezioni For more, see of PPR chief François- WWD.com/fashion-news. People say that creativity runs in the family, Henri Pinault, makes and it seems the same is true for eyewear. an appearance, stirring After opening a successful vintage eyewear speculation about Hermés’ battle store in Venice Beach, Calif., Garrett Leight with Bernard Arnault. is launching a self-named collection of optical and sunglasses. His last name in association The Mobs Turn with eyewear should ring a bell, since his father, Out for Lanvin/3 Larry Leight, co-founded Oliver Peoples back in Retail: As Lanvin launches 1986. Six styles, available in both optical and its collection for H&M, sun, including a clip-on option, will debut this masses turn out throughout spring and will wholesale from $80 to $150. the U.S. to snap up the line. PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF STYLED BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2010 WWD.COM A Bigger Splash for Hermès on the Left Bank By Joelle Diderich all our openings and they often invite us to theirs.” work balconies was a challenge, but a welcome one. “I A PPR spokeswoman confi rmed that Pinault was in- have always thought that when creating something, the PARIS — Hermès International has opened its second- vited to the party and has been at several Hermès events more restrictions you face, the stronger the creative re- largest unit worldwide in a former swimming pool — in the past. The executive was in Rennes, France, on sponse,” he said. and welcomed a surprising guest to its opening cocktail Thursday night for the opening of a new location of Fnac, To fi ll the cavernous former pool section, interior archi- party: actress Salma Hayek, aka the wife of PPR chief PPR’s chain of book, music and electronics stores. tect Denis Montel came up with three soaring huts made François-Henri Pinault. Hayek said she attended the Hermès event on his behalf. from curved slats of ash wood, reminiscent of nomad tents, Her arrival at the event Thursday night caused ripples Bertrand Puech, executive chairman of Emile housing women’s accessories and home wares, the latter not only because of her short red Gucci bustier dress, but Hermès SARL, which represents the family sharehold- representing 40 percent of the store’s offer. because of the context: Hermès has become embroiled in ers, echoed Thomas’s comments. This includes brand-new wallpaper, furnishing fabric a media battle with luxury mogul Bernard Arnault since “She is a guest,” he deadpanned, adding the late and carpet ranges, in addition to reeditions of furniture designed by Jean-Michel Frank for Hermès in the Thirties. Hermès had operated a temporary space on nearby Rue de Grenelle since 2009, which recently closed to make way for the new store. Thomas revealed that going forward, the luxury fi rm will open fewer stores but opt for larger spaces in order to showcase the full range of its offer. He was confi dent about prospects for 2011 after what promises to be a record year for the company, both in terms of sales and profi tability. Hermès posted a 30 percent increase in sales in the third quarter, fueled by strong demand for silk scarves, leather bags and watch- MAITRE es, particularly in Asia. “We won’t be able to maintain the same growth rate next year, but we should see double-digit growth none- DOMINIQUE theless,” he predicted. BY Patrick Thomas, Thomas and Puech added that the Hermès clan had not yet decided whether to take additional measures to A display in Salma Hayek and PHOTO the store. Bertrand Puech. protect itself from their unwelcome suitor. STORE The family holds 73.4 percent of the capital in a structure they have described as immune to any hostile LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton last month revealed Jean-Louis and Rena Dumas, the former Hermès ceo takeover, but they are reportedly mulling whether to its surprise acquisition of 17.1 percent of its shares. and his interior architect wife, were both close to group their shares into a nonlisted holding. Everyone knows the Pinault family emerged as the François-Henri Pinault’s father, François Pinault. “The family is serene. There is nothing to add,” said white knight that thwarted Arnault’s takeover bid for Earlier that day, the two executives led tours of the Thomas. “No additional measure has been decided.” Gucci in 1999, but Hayek just shrugged her bare shoul- 15,800-square-foot store at 17 Rue de Sèvres and tried to de- However, he underlined that the new store was the ders. “I don’t know about investment; I know about fl ect attention from the LVMH saga and trumpet the unique boldest embodiment yet of the spirit of the house, which shopping,” she said, fl ashing a big smile. character of the store: its fi rst big splash on the Left Bank fi ercely clings to its independence. Hermès chief executive offi cer Patrick Thomas posed after 173 years on the other shore of the French capital. “The timing is perfect, because everything that as- gamely for photos with the Mexico-born beauty, yet Housed in a listed building from 1935, the multilevel serts the singularity and difference of Hermès is wel- downplayed the signifi cance of her attendance. unit houses everything from saddles to silk scarves, in addi- come,” the executive said. “I don’t think a house like “No, no, there is no message,” Thomas said. “We have tion to a fl orist, a small bookstore and a tearoom seating 30. Hermès is capable of surviving in a universe controlled always had a very good relationship with the Pinault family, Creative director Pierre-Alexis Dumas said preserv- by money. This house has proved again and again that for a long time. It is nothing new. They have always come to ing the historic building’s Art Deco mosaics and iron- poetry is not incompatible with business.” Swanson and Sophia Loren mixed in A look at with Christmas cards from the royal the new family and anatomical illustrations book. of blood vessels. A photograph of Frida Kahlo faces a scene from the 1937 fi lm “Conquest.” News of the Kennedy assassination follows shots THE BEATON GOES ON of the Beatles. Unlike Beaton’s dia- Cecil Beaton was a multihyphenate guy — photographer, set designer and ries, which were published in 2003, Academy Award-winning costumer. But the Englishman was also quite the the author notes that these scrap- avid scrapbooker, as evidenced by the release of Assouline’s “Beaton: The books reveal a more fl attering side Art of the Scrapbook,” which will bow at a party on Monday at The Pierre of the man. “The diaries were more hotel. Forty-two of his scrapbooks, archived by Sotheby’s London, have acerbic; Beaton could be sharp-tongued,” been condensed into an impressively rich 392-page monograph. “The con- he explains. “But in the scrapbooks, we see all the positive attributes of nection between his own work and what he picked out in the scrapbooks,” someone who was a visual person. It’s all about admiring art, style and says James Danziger, who published his own Beaton biography in 1977 people. It’s about pleasant recollections.” and wrote the introduction, “is that they’re both really about the impact And as for these once-personal and private scrapbooks going public, of the subject on you.” what would Beaton have thought? “Anybody who takes the time and trou- Make that “subjects,” plural, because his scrapbooks featured a mis- ble to make scrapbooks like those would be happy that they lived on after cellany of material, clipped from glossy magazines, playbills and daily them,” Danziger continues. “At some point, you expect them to make their newspapers from the Thirties to the Sixties. There are images of Gloria way out.” — Venessa Lau COMING THIS WEEK TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS TODAY ON • EYESCOOP: Extra images DAILY [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME.