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ISSUE ONE, 2019 ISSUE ONE,

ISTRIA timeout.com/croatia

Taste the region

Holidaywith a view Here in Istria, more so than almost any destination you could visit in the region, we live in harmony with nature. This ethos Istria: helps to showcase our region as a year-round destination. Life as it should be 'Life as it should be' is our motto. And whichever time of year you visit our beautiful peninsula, you will be able to take part in a traditional, healthy and sustainable way of life, one governed by seasons which provide a bounty of globally- recognised produce.

Our crystal-clear Adriatic offers up the most exquisite, fresh seafood, providing much of the Mediterranean-style diet we consume. From our continental side, the spectacular hilltop towns of Istria and the terraces of vineyards and olive groves give us award-winning wines and olive oils. Famous too are our rich black and white truffles and fine cheeses, both of which stem from the same beloved terrain and terroir as our wines and olives.

Beat the crowds by visiting in springtime, walking down romantic, cobbled streets unfettered by fellow tourists, or arrive in the summertime so the family can take advantage of our beautiful beaches, clean sea and dependable sun- shine. Autumn shows Istria at its best; the weather is good and the sea is still warm enough to swim in, it coincides with harvest time, the arrival of the year's new truffles and the start of the hunting season. Each season Istria has its own cultural calendar, from famous film and music festivals to time-honoured celebrations.

Our major international airport in adds new routes year upon year. Over 70 European destinations including , Paris and Frankfurt are connected by direct flights to Pula, positioning Istria as an attractive and easy getaway for visitors from all over the world.

It's never been easier to visit Istria. At whatever time you arrive, you won't fail to fall in love with 'Life as it should be'.

Denis Ivošević, Director of Istria Board www.istra.com

I_210x273_TimeOutUK.indd 1 KW11 | 11.03.19 15:12 Welcome

ISTRIA Inside timeout.com/croatia

This season’s Time Out Published by ORSO PLAN d.o.o, Istria in no time at all Hello, Heinzelova 62A, 10000 , Croatia, on behalf of Time For Croatia Ltd., 64 North Row, 4th Floor, London, W1K7DA, UK Istria Taste Editor-in-chief Justin McDonnell Deputy editor Marc Rowlands the region Operations manager Andrea Mićanović Chief operating officer Robin-Ivan Capar Publisher Manica Pirc Orešković Justin McDonnell Editor-in-chief Head of video Ashley Colburn

@justinmcdonnel Contributors Peterjon Cresswell, Jonathan Bousfield. Design Art Director Enes Huseinčehajić Creative Direction Enes Huseinčehajić, Justin McDonnell Global Creative Director Tom Hislop

Annual magazine Total run: 21.000 Hard print (3,500), digital print (17,500)

Photo Credits Inside: sharonang, Outlook Festival, Patrik Zubaj, Istria Tourism Welcome to Istria, now get out! Board p2. A crash course guide to Istria: Istria Tourism Board p3, wandertraveler p4, Istria Tourism Board p4. Istria Today: Istria Tourism Board p6, Starkov Photo p6, Saša Halambek p7, Istria Tourism Board p8, Tatlin p8. A love letter to Istria: Istria Tourist Board p10, Mike IT’S HARD TO OVERSTATE the magic of Istria. Sandwiched between Downey p11. Events: D. Hren p12, Istria Tourism Board p12-13, Sea Croatia, and , legions of artists and writers have drawn Star Photo Team p13, Istria Tourism Board p14-15, Pula Tourism Board p16. A in ten buildings: Poreč Tourism Board p18, á inspiration from this beautiful peninsula, defined by its mist-shrouded Goran Sebelić p19, Central Istria Tourism Board p19, Julien Duval p19, Patrik Zubaj p20, Patrik Zubaj p20, Istria Tourism Board p20, Maistra PAGE 120 hilltops and rugged beaches (P24). A mash-up of Balkan and Italian p21, Patrik Zubaj p21, Patrik Zubaj p21. Searching for stars: Patrik Zubaj p22-23. Reading Istria: Penguin Books Australia p24, Patrik HILLTOP TOWNS influences, you'll see it everywhere from the buildings you visit (P18) to Zubaj p24. The capital of bass: Sea Star Photo Team p26-27, Outlook the food on your plate (P34). Istria always looks outwards – whether it's Festival p28, Sea Star Photo Team p28, Danije Kiršić p30, Sea Star Photo Team p30, Danije Kiršić p31, Sea Star Photo Team p31, Outlook stargazing (P22) or hosting world-famous music festivals (P26), this is Festival p31. Made in Istria: Iva Stojković jewelry p32, STAŠA p32, Karlić tartufi p33, Koza p33. Eating: Olga Kriger p34, Heinz Leitner the Croatian coast at its most bohemian. So, now you're here – get out! p35, Saša Halambek p35, sharonang p35, Heinz Leitner p36, The And discover everything Istria has to offer. Croatian Tourism Board croatia.hr p37, Tourism Board p36, Fotoholik p37, Renco Kosinožić p37, Istria Tourism Board p37. Food, glorious food: Istria Tourism Board p40-43. Karlić - the home of the truffle: Karlić tartufi p44-45. Istria Tourism Board p46, Istria Tourism á Board p47, Saša Halambek p47, Vinistra/Istria Tourism Board p47, PAGE 34 artinsiring p48. A taste of history: Marijan Arman p50-51. Liquid gold: Ulleo p52, Ilona Couleur p53, Couleur p53, Enrique Lopezgarre p53, Oliva Lucia p54, Marianna Olefyrenko p54. Chiavalon: Chiavalon p56-57. Hilltop town: Ashley Colburn p58, Tourism Board p59. On your bike: Christa Eder p60, Istria Tourism Board p61-62. Just beachy: Valamar p64-65. Tito's Shangri-La: Brijuni National Park “We are living in p66-68. Istria for kids: Plava Laguna p69, Istria Tourism Board p69, Istria Tourism Board p70, Istralandia p70, Aquacolors Aquapark p71, Yanlev p71. Your kind of holiday: My Istria p72-76. Listings: Liz Kay something called the p77. Pula Top 30: Pula Tourism Board p78, Istria Tourism Board p78- 79, Outlook Festival p79, Restaurant p80, Pula Market p81, Giordano Cellich p81, Gianluca Draguzet p82, Pula Tourism Board p82, Medvid produkcija p84, Pula Tourism Board p85, Brijuni National dream society” Park p85, BOCA Bar p86, Pula Tourism Board p87. A cultural tour of Outlook festival, p26 Korado Korlević, p22 Pula: Galerija Makina p88, Pula Tourism Board p88-89. Fažana Top THE VIEW FROM YOU 10: Igor Zirojević p90-91. Top 20: Rovinj Tourism Board p92-93, — Korado Korlević Maistra p93, Dalibor Talajić p94, Istria Tourism Board p94, Maistra p95. , & Limski Canal Top 20: Istria Tourism Board p98- 99, Mošćenička Draga Tourism Board p100, Ivan Kajlić p101, See what people are Instagramming! Tourism Board p102. Everything you need to know about Vrsar: Istria Tourism Board p104-105. Poreč Top 20: Artur Rychlinski p106, Poreč Tourism Board p106-107, Poreč Tourism Board p108-109, Diving Centre Poreč p109, Poreč Tourism Board p110-111, Restaurant Sv. Nikola p113, Valamar p113. Dive into summer: Diving Centre Poreč Contents p113, Poreč Tourism Board p115. Motovun Top 20: Motovun Tourism Board p116, xbrchx p116-117, Julien Duval p117, Karlić tartufi p118, 4 A crash course guide to Istria 72 Your kind of holiday Motovun Tourism Board p119, Karlić tartufi p119. Grožnjan: Istria Tourism Board p120. Hum: xbrchx p121. Novigrad & Tar-Vabriga Top 6 Istria Today 77 Istria by destination 20: annete p122, Novigrad Tourism Board p122-123, Damir & Ornella 11 A Love Letter To Istria 78 Pula Top 30 p124, Istria Tourism Board p125-128. & Top 20: Istria Tourism Board p130, Sea Star Photo Team p130-131, Kempinski 18 A history of Istria in ten buildings 88 A cultural tour of Pula Hotel Adriatic p131, ATP Plava Laguna Croatia Open Umag p132, Plava Laguna p133. The coast with the most: ATP Plava Laguna Croatia 22 Searching for stars 90 Fažana Top 10 Open Umag p134, Istria Tourism Board p134, Sea Star Photo Team 24 Reading Istria 92 Rovinj Top 20 p135, Istria Tourism Board p135. & Brtonigla Top 20: Brtonigla Tourism Board, Buje Tourism Board p137, Istria Tourism Board p138, 26 The capital of bass 98 Vrsar, Funtana & Limski Canal Top 20 San Rocco p138, Istria Tourism Board p140, Olga Kriger p141. The pleasure of luxury: Hotel Casino Mulino p142-143. & Žminj Top 32 Shopping & Style 106 Poreč Top 20 JOIN THE CONVERSATION 20: Istria Tourism Board p144-145, Žminj Tourism Board p145-146, 34 Eating 114 Dive into summer xbrchx p147, Istria Tourism Board p147-149. & Rabac Top 20: Labin-Rabac Tourism Board p150-155. The great outdoors: Istria 40 Food, glorious food 116 Motovun Top 20 facebook.com/timeoutcroatia Tourism Board p156-157. Essentials: uhg1234 p160.

44 Karlić – the home of the truffle 120 Grožnjan We would like to thank our advertisers for their involvement. However we instagram.com/timeoutcroatia would like to stress that they have no influence over editorial content. 46 Bottoms up 121 Hum Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out 50 A taste of history 122 Novigrad & Tar-Vabriga Top 20 International Limited, London, UK. timeoutcroatia 52 Liquid gold 130 Umag & Savudrija Top 20 The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 77 Wicklow Street, London, England, WC1X 9JY, UK 57 Chiavalon 134 The coast with the most +44 (0) 20 7813 3000, www.timeout.com timeout.com/croatia/news © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2019 58 Hilltop hom 136 Buje & Brtonigla Top 20 © drone_wanderer © kardinalmelon © vladfran.croatia 60 On your bike 142 The pleasure of luxury While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept 64 Just beachy 144 Pazin & Žminj Top 20 responsibility for any errors it may contain. All rights reserved. No part of this 66 Tito’s Shangri-La 150 Labin & Rabac Top 20 publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted SHARE! Show us your best Instagram shots using #timeoutistria. in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, 69 Istria for kids 156 The great outdoors recording or otherwise, without prior permission of Time Out Croatia.

Time Out Istria 2019 2 3 2019 Time Out Istria A crash course guide to Istria

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CHRISTENED ‘TERRA MAGICA’ fast-boat service and within easy is often used as a gateway. coast at Poreč, the line was built in by the Romans, this compact reach of with its ferries that To cross the hilly, verdant inte- 1902, when was consoli- triangular peninsula has its own, ply the Croatian coast, Istria is rior, you’ll need a , rely on dating its empire. celebrated gastronomy, wines reasonably well connected with or, harking back to Istria’s Habs- After , the and creatives, Istria has been Street signs are usually written and olive oils. Nothing is ever the outside world. Four major UK burg past, there’s the Parenzana. was neglected under lax Italian transformed since 1991, but at in two languages, while most locals too far away, and inland is every airlines, including British Airways, A narrow-gauge rail that ran from control before being abandoned its own pace. Many of these busi- are adept at speaking three, English bit as beautiful as the coast. have services to Pula airport while , through the Istrian interior completely in 1935. nesses are still in family hands, included. You can spend the day at the just over the border in Italy, Trieste to terminate halfway down the It has recently been revamped two or three generations later. The While concentrates coastal resorts of Rovinj, Poreč or for cyclists and hikers to follow coast is still pristine and develop- on making its money in the sum- Novigrad then dine luxuriously in renovated sections of the track ment has been kind. mer, Istria’s tourist industry is the main town of Pula. North-east, around Motovun, Buje and Historic attractions remain year-round, autumn also busy towards the Slovenian border, Grožnjan. sacrosanct – in fact, the most thanks to the lucrative draw of is a small hub of quality Istrian Revered, revived and iconic, the , a Roman wine and truffles. restaurants and spa retreats. picturesque, the Parenzana is a colosseum with a near intact circle Many of the festivals and celebra- Inland is dotted with timeless handy metaphor for Istria itself, of stadium walls, hosts all kinds of tions surrounding the hilltop villages like Grožnjan, its Italianate past, its maritime contemporary events, including new vintage or recently Motovun or Hum, and cuisine that heritage and its entrepreneurial the Pula Film Festival, the opening dug trove of sought- 'Nothing is cross the border to savour. upswing following Croatian night of soundsystem celebration after fungi take place in ever too far On the wilder, less developed east independence. Outlook, and a summer series of villages whose popula- away, and coast, Rabac has seen a number of High-end dining, wine trails, high-profile live concerts. With tion barely clicks into inland is recent family-friendly or boutique olive oil routes, rustic accommo- its forum and its triumphal arch, three figures. Istria hotel openings. Oddities such as dation with pools, swish boutique though, Pula always reminds you remains a community- every bit as Tito’s island menagerie of Brijuni hotels, aquaparks, arts festivals, of its Roman heyday. based society, tied to beautiful as make a longer stay in Istria a film festivals, festivals of light, Once the Romans left, the the land, tied to tradi- the coast.' varied and attractive proposition. and one-off sculp- moved in, but after 2,000 years, tion and tied to a strong An easy drive from Zagreb, tures, depopulated villages now Istria has not lost its flair for identity forged by geo- connected to by a regular repopulated with gallery owners cultivation and cuisine. graphic isolation.

Time Out Istria 2019 4 5 2019 Time Out Istria Istria Today

Motovun vineyard

new events are being added to the hotel developments and historic hotels: Istria has always been at the calendar all the time. town centres were kept apart. It was forefront of the Croatian camping Istria’s reputation for innovation Istria that took the lead – Dalmatia scene too. It was here that the doesn’t just rest on the constant had to wait until the late Sixties first mega-camps emerged in the reinvention of its rustic riches. before the hotel-building boom Sixties and Seventies, and here There’s also a brash modernist took off, for the simple reason that that the first big naturist camps side to the peninsula that sees it didn’t have good enough roads. came into being at around the same tourism as a grand project as well Innovative hotel architecture is time. Naturism, it seems, is slowly Bale as a cottage industry. It was in Istria still part and parcel of the Istrian on the way out, with big let-it-all- after all that the nuts and bolts of cultural package. Completed hang-out resorts such as Polari Adriatic tourism were first put in 2012, Rovinj’s Hotel Lone near Rovinj and Koversada near WHATEVER HAPPENS in breakthrough as a gastronomic as Degrassi, Clai and Matošević, together. The impetus initially (designed by Zagreb’s 3LHD), Vrsar being redeveloped as family- Croatian tourism probably destination, a phenomenon that brought domestic varieties came from outside: Austrian was a deliberate attempt to match oriented glamping sites – mostly happened in Istria first. It was rooted in the rediscovery of local like Malvazija and Teran back and Italian overlords built roads, the achievements of the Sixties for the fully clothed, but with here that Adriatic tourism as we culinary riches. Istria always had a to ’s top tables and gave railways and resorts to cater for generation by creating something secluded plots reserved for the FKK know it first took off, and Istria reputation of neighbourhood inns Croatian wine growers further the sophisticated lotus-eaters of uncompromisingly contemporary die-hards. still functions as an incubator serving homemade pasta, local south something to aim for. Vienna and . However, the that could also serve as an object There are plenty of aspects of of new ideas, ideas that end up game, seasonal goodies such as The number of celebrations mass tourism boom of the Sixties of beauty. Over on the other the Innovative-Istria brand that being exported to the rest of the asparagus and truffles, and menus marking seasonal bounty was very much a home-grown side of Rovinj’s broad bay is the transcend mere discussion of Croatian coast. The reasons for that ran from farmhouse sausages (whether harvesting affair. Local architects Hotel Amarin (Sudio UP; 2016), tourist facilities. Croatia’s new- Istria’s preeminence are partly to the finest Adriatic scallops chestnuts or fishing were brought in to an agenda-setting family resort found reputation as a land of film geographical – the peninsula lies and mussels. The contemporary for squid) has always 'If it’s design landmark comprising alien-spaceship hotel festivals rested initially on two big very close to the Central European emphasis on locally-sourced food been an important happening hotels like the and innovative, colour-coded Istrian events. Pula (established in cities where most Croatia-bound and the unselfconscious readiness part of Istrian life, in Croatia, Materada in Poreč and children’s park. With the hanging- 1953; Akira Kurosawa’s Rashomon travellers originally came from, to mix high- and low-cuisine was and it’s here that it probably the Eden in Rovinj, garden terraces of the Grand Hotel was one of the first films to so it’s hardly surprising that the not something that Croatia learned the contemporary creating a distinctive Park (3LHD again) currently taking be screened), and Motovun Istrian hospitality industry has by watching TV chefs on cable TV – Croatian gastro- happened in Croatian-modernist shape opposite Rovinj’s medieval (launched in 1999 and now a major always been a few steps ahead of it already existed in Istria. festival has its roots. Istria first' style that still serves as centre, the town is beginning to showcase for independents) are everyone else. The same might be said of Even now, there are an inspiration today. look like a premonition of Croatia’s still the only Croatian film festivals However Istria also stands out boutique wine. It was the Istrian more food festivals in A commitment to future as well as a well-preserved that regional cineastes absolutely for reasons unique to the peninsula emphasis on small-scale quality, Istria than in any other socially-responsible morsel of an illustrious past. must attend. It is no surprise that itself. Take for example Croatia’s exemplified by local growers such part of Croatia, and planning ensured that It’s by no means just about Istria is also home to Croatia’s two

Time Out Istria 2019 6 7 2019 Time Out Istria Parenžana race essential media-industry shindigs: the Communication Days (May) and Weekend Media Festival (September), both in Rovinj, attract the kind of international experts that Zagreb would find it hard to muster. Istria’s reputation as the summertime heartland of European bass culture (thanks to Pula-based festivals like Outlook and Dimensions) owes a great deal to the initial success of Seasplash, the local and dub event established in 2003. The Adriatic festival template was not something developed by outsiders and brought into the country as a We TaKe FuN sErIoUsLy fully-formed business idea – the whole thing took off thanks to a bunch of reggae fans in Pula. The Seasplash Festival is moving from Pula to the Dalmatian town of Šibenik in 2019. It’s a significant loss to the Istrian scene, but also poreč • umag demonstrates the point that we made at the beginning: if it’s happening in Croatia, it probably plavalaguna.com happened in Istria first.

Time Out Istria 2019 8 A Love Letter To Istria

ACTUALLY, this is more of a love song to Istria. My (Favourite) Istrian Things I could go on, but there’s enough here for a It’s 40 years since I first set foot on the Terra good week’s worth of exploration. Istria is full of Magica that is Istria. I knew then as a cal- Snowflakes on Ucka’ amazing things to do – and the development of low 19-year-old that this extraordinary place And spring in Grimaldi, the interior of the peninsula alongside coastal would play an important part in my life. Quite Kamenjak swimming, and Vrh’s ravioli, tourism has been the goal of successive local how important, I had no idea at that time, but Motovun’s Mondo with truffles and films - governments. It’s a great place to visit and is after the war when I was invited to come and These are a few of my Istrian things. a place of paradoxes and chance encounters. lecture at the George Soros Funded Imaginary A few weeks ago, I went to the Arena in Pula, Academy in Grožnjan, the shape of things Matosevic’ Alba, probably the best preserved and most complete started to appear. Although I was working as an And Kozlovic’ bunker, Roman Arena of its kind. As I do, I was following international producer of feature films out of Octopus roasted at Alla Beccaccia, around an American family of five – three young London, it was here that I met my life partner of Dances of Death in Beram and its stings, boys who barely looked at the place, kids not 20 years, Marijana, acquired a property on one These are a few of my Istrian things. listening to their (probably teachers) parents of the most spectacular and discreet belvederes and constantly squabbling among themselves. in the peninsula with a rambling garden along James Joyce in Pula The squabbles turning into an argument – a with assorted dogs, cats, and beasts of all creeds And Jules Verne in Pazin nasty one. The last thing I heard as I went down and colours. To list the things I love about it in Casanova in Vrsar with Dante in tandem the steps to leave, beating a hasty retreat before detail would take an age and a number of pages Brioni and Tito, Liz Taylor’s big rings it got ugly – Dad:’I cant believe you kids. We come rather than the measly 600 words I’ve been These are a few of my Istrian things. half way round the world to see this Colosseum asked to fill. I’ve decided therefore to do some- and all you do is fight. This is not the place for thing a little different with the editorial brief. When the Bura blows fighting!’ And so it goes…. It’s a little-known fact that the von Trapp fami- And Tramontana swings ly have a long and colourful history in this region. Down Kanal’s “Viking” Born in , Georg von Trapp (yes, Christopher I simply remember my Istrian things Plummer!) grew up partly in Pula and Rijeka And then I don’t feel so bad. where he attended the Maritime Academy before going on to join the Austro-Hungarian Navy, Makina’s pictures eventually becoming a submarine captain in the And Sumonja’s sheep paintings first World War returning to Pula to multiply and Trapan’s Guevara and Buric’ creations set up residence in 1912 at the Casa Trapp, which Oil of fine olives that’s sure fit for kings, Austrian architect Ferdinand Geyer designed These are a few of my Istrian things. for them in Veruda. So, half of his singing troupe were born in Pula and the other half in Groznjan has artists later on before the second World War at his And many fine flautists grandmother’s house in Austria. Pula has ships and a shit load of tourists It is in homage to the von Trapp’s and with The Arena’s a wonderful sight to be seen Mike Downey is a film producer who has massive apologies to composer Richard Rodg- These are a few of my Istrian things. worked on over 80 features with the likes of Peter ers the composer of The Sound of Music and Greenaway, Pawel Pawlikowski, Gunter Grass, even more to lyricist Oscar Hammerstein II that Sailing round Cres Thomas Kenneally and James Ellroy. He is I have decided to share with you my Favourite On the Kvarner deputy chairman of the European Film Academy Istrian Things via a brutal bastardisation of their Sea starts looking mad, and President and co-founder of the Motovun masterpiece. (And I’ve always fancied myself as I simply remember my Istrian things Film festival as well as Artistic Advisor of The a latter-day Julie Andrews drag artiste.) And then I don’t feeeeeeeeeeeel…….. so baeaaad! Zagreb Film Festival.

Time Out Istria 2019 10 11 2019 Time Out Istria Things to Do

Novigrad and Poreč, Lighthouse over the Pula Arena once a week Festival is a well organised (usually Saturday evening if other underground electronic music events allow), except during the festival which also holds an edition Pula Film Festival when it takes in Cape Town, South . This a mid-season break. There is a year’s headliners, who will be parade of Roman fashions and playing and , hairstyles with explanatory are yet to be revealed. narration, and fights ÆÆPoreč (lighthousefestival.tv). May 29-June 2. featuring “real weapons” and lots DO of theatrical gore. ÆÆArena, Pula (spectaculaantiqua. TO JUNE com). Mid June-early Sept. The best events in Istria Foo Fighters Such is the public affection for this season Poreč Open-Air Festival David Grohl and his rowdy rock A summer-long programme juggernaut that these dates Days of Antiquity – Pula Svperiorvm of events encompassing street sold out within minutes of their entertainers, outdoor film announcement. If you didn’t have screenings and live music the foresight to book, you can at The Festival of Wild, Edible two-day course with an overnight Labyrinth Istria Saturdays 10am-1pm. on open-air stages occurring least stand outside the Arena and APRIL and Medicinal Plants kip in the middle. The yellow race This new Istrian installment of MAY ÆÆPula city centre (pulainfo.hr). May 24-25. throughout the town. crane an ear. Tenth anniversary of this event begins and ends in Motovun and the longstanding Belgian techno May 31-June 1. June 7-8. June 14-15. ÆÆVarious venues, Poreč ÆÆArena, Pula. June 18+19. offering tips in the cultivation, can be quite a spectacle; the red festival promises 36 hours of (porecopenair.com). June-Sept. South on Two Wheels extraction and the medicinal use of trail ends up in Umag. non-stop music. It begins on Love Sensual Gallery rally Croatian Summer A series of six recreational plants and herbs. There are lots of ÆÆLabin-Umag (istria100.com). April 12-14. Friday night at club Byblos with Latino-African dance festival (with Now in its sixth year, Gallery Rally Indirekt Salsa Festival cycle rides in southern Istria, different natural products to try and an extended session featuring styles like Dominican bachata and creates an urban map of venues Boutique festival dedicated A week of sashaying and spread throughout spring and take home, bought straight from the Šparogada headliners Pan-Pot and Marcel Angolan kizomba predominating), to visit which aims to put local to alternative music, art and shimmying with demonstrations autumn. Each route is suitable for hands of those who make them. Annual celebration of the Fengler. The party moves to the featuring demonstrations by top artists and exhibition spaces in literature, with on-site camping by top international performers recreational cyclists of all ages, and ÆÆKršan. April. asparagus with a great cultural beach for the daylight hours of dancers and workshops led by the spotlight. Born in Zagreb, but and an intimate friendly vibe. and workshops for those with all is designed to take you through and sports programme attached, Saturday, before heading back international dance instructors. now in its second year in Pula too, ÆÆUmag (indirekt.eu). June. levels of ability. Mostly Salsa, but a the best of the region’s scenery. 100 miles of Istria including activities for all ages indoors at club Zodiak for Saturday There’s a gala performance on the visitors have a five-hour period lot more Latin dance styles besides. There’s always a relaxed post-race A major international event and usually some great traditional night and Sunday morning. Also main square on 4 May. to visit as many participating Festival of Istrian Maneštra ÆÆRovinj (crosalsafestival.com). June 24-July 1. party at the end of the course. This for long-distance trail runners, music and recognised Croatian appearing on the bill are lots of ÆÆHotel Valamar, Poreč (love- galleries as they can. Collect a All day festival which is both a year’s dates are Fažana (27 April), nowadays attracting over 2000 acts. For fans of the flavour-filled homegrown DJ talent including sensual.hr). May 3-5. special event map from HUIU at celebration of Istrian Maneštra (18 May) Šišan to Ližnjan competitors. There are four green fingers, you can sample Mozer, Bronski and Andrea Ljekaj. Zagrebačka 27 and then collect and a fiercely fought competition (15 June), Divšići (14 Sept), Pula different courses, ranging from plenty of asparagus-based dishes ÆÆVarious Venues, Poreč (facebook. Rovinj Photodays stickers from each of the around for whose is the best. Teams cook JULY (27 Sept) and Medulin (5 Oct). the 41km-long, “beginners’” made by local caterers. com/labyrinthopen). April 26-28. A major international photography 15 galleries as you knock them off this thick soup/stew of pulses, ÆÆVarious venues, Istria (istria- yellow trail to the superhuman, ÆÆVarious venues, Kaštel (facebook.com/ event with exhibitions in outdoor your list. Visitors who complete vegetables, meats and herbs on pula.com). From April. Istria-spanning, 168km red trail – a events/1142884872545908). April 26-28. Primavera Craft Beer locations and indoor venues the sticker quota on the map the streets all day and you’ll be PUF International & Gin Festival throughout the town. There’s an will receive a memento at the able to sample their efforts come Alternative Theatre Festival This weekend festival shines its atten- accompanying programme of talks finish line. dinner time. Non-mainstream performing tions equally on Croatia's craft beer and concerts, and prizes are given ÆÆVarious venues, Pula (facebook. ÆÆGračišće. June. arts in all kinds of challenging revolution and a resurgence in popu- in different categories. com/relipogalerijama). May 24 permutations, with events held larity of drinking gin. One of Pula's ÆÆVarious venues, Rovinj (photodays- Spectacvla antiqva at the Rojc cultural centre and very best bars for quality drinks, rovinj.com). May 3-5. This extravaganza which elsewhere around the city. cocktails and music events plays the Sea Star Festival celebrates takes ÆÆPula (pulainfo.hr). July 1-5. perfect host, so expect ingenious gin Vinistra Wine Festival A relatively recent offshoot of cocktails and a variety of entertain- Far more than just a trade fair, this the Festival in Novi Sad, the ments on their large terrace with its annual get-together for Istrian DJ-oriented Sea Star pulled in wonderful views. Musical headliners wine-makers presents a cracking 80,000 fans in 2018 and looks set for the weekend are Croatia's leading opportunity to taste your way to repeat its success in 2019. This electronic pop dance duo, the enig- through all the local varieties, and year’s roster of knob-twiddlers matic Nipplepeople. munch a handsome selection of includes German trance-techno ÆÆCaffe bar Circolo 17, Pula (facebook. local deli products into the bargain. legend Sven Väth and Nina Kraviz. com/Circolo17caffe). April 26-27. ÆÆŽatika sports hall, Poreč ÆÆStella Maris Resort, Umag (vinistra.com). May 12. (seastarfestival.com). May 24-25. Prvi Maj Geri Anticipating the May Day holiday Days of Antiquity – Adris RC44 Race Cup is this open-air festival headlined Pula Svperiorvm The Rovinj leg of the international by Belgrade alt-rock power trio Swords and sandals take over RC44 yachting grand prix brings Repetitor, prog-noise the centre of Pula with parades the world sailing elite to the rockers Them Moose Rush and of Roman legionaries, gladiator Istrian coast. 100 miles of Istria Split rapper Vojko Vrućina. training exercises, music and ÆÆRovinj. May 29-June 2. ÆÆKaštel, Pula (entrio.hr). April 27. dancing, and kids’ workshops. Most events take place in front of Lighthouse Festival the Temple of Jupiter on the main Held at the tip of a relatively wild Sea Star Festival DISCOVER! www.istra.com/events square. On Fridays 5-9pm, on and untouched peninsula between

Time Out Istria 2019 12 13 2019 Time Out Istria Things to Do www.restaurant-hotel.com.hr

Cannes, the Pula Film Festival is Ode to Joy partly held in the city’s historic Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony Roman , which gets a run-out in the suitably B2B magazine for transforms into an open-air magnificent surroundings of Pula’s cinema and venue for opening amphitheatre, performed by the night and the award ceremonies. orchestra and choir of the Croatian hospitality and tourism The agenda includes Croatian National Theatre in Rijeka. and international films as ÆÆArena, Pula (eventim.hr). July 27. 18 years on the market well as a student programme, evening concerts and audience Tomato Days interaction with well known Gallons of salsa (and for once we personalities from the are talking about the sauce, not world of film. the dance) are consumed in this ÆÆPula Arena, Kino Valli and various other street festival commemorating venues, Pula (pulafilmfestival.hr). July 13-21. the tomato harvest, with an accompanying programme Traditional Evenings on of outdoor entertainment the Fažana Waterfront and live music. (Tradicijske večeri ÆÆVarious venues, Umag na fažanskoj rivi) (colourofistria.com). July 25. A fair promoting local drink, handicrafts and food, with the famous Fažana pilchard playing a starring role. AUGUST ÆÆFažana (infofazana.hr). July 17. Aida Carmen A spectacular opera in a The stars of Rijeka opera perform spectacular setting, Verdi’s Egypt- Bizet’s classic in Pula’s Roman based warble fest takes over Pula amphitheatre, with mezzosoprano Arena for what looks like being an Ivana Srbljan in the title role. unforgettable night. ÆÆArena, Pula (eventim.hr). August 1. Labin Art Republic ÆÆArena, Pula (eventim.hr). July 25. Monte Paradiso The Festival of Istrian Pasta played on clay; it’s part of the ATP Legendfest Punk Festival A celebration of pasta which places tour which ensures a fair sprinkling Istria is a treasure trove of One of Croatia’s longest-running the food in the heart of Istrian of international aces alongside traditional folk tales and occult music festivals, this is pretty much cuisine. Local cheeses, vegetables, homegrown stars. lore, a heritage celebrated by what it says on the label, with an seafood, meats and herbs are ÆÆUmag (croatiaopen.hr). July 12-July 21. this two-day festival of readings, international selection of hard- used to concoct dishes you can exhibitions and children’s riffing anarcho-rockers perform- try, paired with Istrian wine. You Pula Film Festival entertainment. ing in the courtyard of the Rojc can learn how to make traditional Running since 1953 even before ÆÆPićan (legendfest.hr). July 26-27. cultural centre. pasta shapes of the region and ÆÆDC Rojc, Pula (monteparadiso. chill out around dusk, when the info). August 2-4. event becomes lit with lamps and candles. ÆÆZminj. July. Formed in 2003 and hailing from Bosnia, Dubioza Kolektiv Labin Art Republic combine , dub, ska, Summer-long arts festival with reggae, rock, punk and electronic local painters throwing open music influences which really their atelier doors, and a feast of come to life in the live arena. theatre and music in a variety of Singing in multiple tongues, outdoor spaces. the band have toured in many ÆÆOld Town, Labin (labin-art- different countries where their republika.com). July-August explosive live show and warm tourism interaction with audiences has Goat Hell broken through anything as Destruction, Pestilence, Evil Blood trivial as language barriers. This hospitality and other acts your grandparents date promises to be one of the wouldn’t understand headline this year's highlights for domestic enogastronomy... dark and old school heavy metal audiences, but we recommend fest at Vallelunga, on the north side that visitors also not miss ...interviews, trends, of Pula’s harbour. this treat. The combination ÆÆVallelunga, Pula (goathell.eu). July 4-7. of atmosphere, music and events, news the incredible setting will be Plava Laguna Croatian Open Pula Film Festival something you won't easily forget. Croatia’s leading tennis event, ÆÆArena, Pula (eventim.hr). August 10. Business Media Croatia d.o.o. Savska cesta 182, 10000 Zagreb Time Out Istria 2019 14 [email protected], www.bmcroatia.hr

OGLAS RH ZA TIME OUT_2019.indd 1 13.02.2019. 12:25:00 Things to Do Things to Do SEPTEMBER Grisia Festival of St Pelagius selling food, drink and crafts, and Istrian Grappa Fair Sa(n)jam Knjige/ always a strong international Fantastic open-to-all art exhibition St Pelagius’s Day (August 28) is an outdoor concert stage with great 19th annual edition of this home- Book Fair(y) element (chief guest in 2018 was with hundreds of paintings dis- stretched into a long weekend traditional music and dancing. made alcohol festival at which Istria’s premier literary event, and Nigerian Nobel-winner Wole played along the length of Grisia, of events in Novigrad, with ÆÆBuzet (tz-.hr). Sept 7. you can try grappa (also known as arguably the best book festival in Soyinka), and events are often medieval Rovinj’s main street. seafood stalls, outdoor concerts rakija or brandy) made from things Croatia as a whole, this ten-day conducted in English. ÆÆRovinj (rovinj-tourism.com). August 11. and fireworks adding up to a Pulska Xica like cherry, quince, plum, grape, affair offers readings, talks, and ÆÆDom hrvatskih branitelja/House of Croatian grand fiesta. A highly enjoyable fun run that honey and walnut. One of the most lots of stalls selling books. There’s Defenders, Pula (sanjamknjige.hr), Dec 5-15 Mussels Festival ÆÆNovigrad (coloursofistria.com). August 23-28. takes place at night, with a circuit famous local versions is a reputedly Vabriga near Poreč is the venue for that starts at the Arena, runs past medicinal variety made from mis- this annual knees-up celebrating Dimensions Festival the lighting giants, and through the tletoe and herbs. FEBRUARY 2020 the local crop of mussels (pedoči). A major player in the international Zerostrasse . ÆÆHum. October. The delicacy is served in several underground dance music scene, ÆÆPula (pulainfo.hr). Sept 21. various recipes and alongside all the well curated Dimensions Chestnut Fair manner of other seafood, and the boasts a line-up of the biggest Visualia Festival of Light Eleventh annual edition celebrat- wine will be flowing freely. DJs and live dance acts on the Light installations, art works ing this locally-abundant crop. ÆÆVabriga (tar-vabriga.com). August. planet. Omar-S, Peggy Gou, Nina and illuminated performance Chestnut based cakes, other Kraviz, Joy Orbison, Helena Hauff, art throughout the city, with desserts and a range of products International Pula dBridge, Hessle Audio, Gilles both the Roman Arena and the derived from the nut are all avail- Jazz Festival Peterson, Call Super, Mr Scruff, shipyard Lighting Giants playing able to try and take home. Top-quality horn-doodling in Blawan, Andrew Weatherall, Craig spectacular roles. ÆÆOprtalj. October. the evocative surrounds of a Richards, Shanti Celeste, DVS1, ÆÆPula (facebook.com/ Habsburg-era officers’ club and its DJ Stingray and DJ Bone provide VisualiaFestival). Sept 19-21. International Pršut Festival ornate garden. DJ sets over this year’s four days, Traditional gastro event celebrat- ÆÆDom Hrvatskih branitelja/House of Croatian with DMX Krew, Radioactive Weekend Media Festival ing the home-cured ham for which Defenders, Pula (eventim.hr). August 13-15. Man, Larry Heard aka Mr. Fingers, The great and the good of Croatia’s the region is famous. It’s very much Octave One and Dam-Funk media industries assemble an international event, offering Trka na prstenac performing live. Wednesday for a week-long overdose of the chance to taste delicacies from (Tilting at the Ring) night’s opening show at Pula Arena talks, exhibitions, discussions northern Italy and Spain as well as Centuries-old knightly features Detroit's in a Visualia and seminars. the succulent porky pride of Istria. tournament in the village of performance that will also feature Established as Croatia's first festival Visualia was first held in 2013, with ÆÆRovinj (weekendmediafestival.com). Sept. ÆÆTinjan (isap.hr). Mid Oct. , in which locals on Afrobeat rhythm pioneer Tony of light, Visualia presents the magic 3D Mapping, and its agenda has been horseback try to spear a dangling Allen, with Objekt performing an and beauty of new technologies and increasing every year. First followed MTB Parenzana ring. The main race is on the final opening slot and Hunee DJing audiovisual art, as well as branding the Lighting Giants illuminated cranes Recreational cycling marathon Sunday, but there are three days to round off the party. Main site Pula as a pioneer in this field. For this of Uljanik Shipyard, which have since featuring a 43km section of the NOVEMBER of festivities with folklore, DJs stages feature top rate production seventh annual edition in September become a new city attraction. In Parenzana, the former narrow- and live bands. facets and are hidden among the 2019, the novelty is that Visualia will 2015, a Guinness World Record was gauge railway that is now a long- ÆÆBarban (trkanaprstenac.hr). August 16-18. ancient ruins of Pula, on various be partnered with the International broken in the Pula Arena for the largest distance cycling route. Heading Days of Young Olive Oil boats and swathes of the beach. Light Association, which brings photograph of people forming a light from Vižinada past Motovun to Standing at the centre of a prolific Leron Folk Festival Accommodation options include together global professionals with a sign, known as the Light Postcard. Livade and back, it’s a great way to olive-growing area, the town of Vod- Popular international folk festival on-site camping, private rented common desire to share knowledge, This year’s event, held between Sep- experience rural Istria. njan celebrates the harvesting and with a procession on Friday apartments or nearby hotels. skills and passion. Their mission is also tember 19 and 21 is expected to attract ÆÆVižinada. September 29. pressing season with this two-day evening followed by concerts on ÆÆFort Punta Christo, Štinjan, near Pula to share and disseminate information some 15,000 visitors. Its visual identity celebration of the local elixir. Local the main-square stage. (dimensionsfestival.com). Aug 28-Sept 2. and promote research in the field has been created by Jean Sambolec, Truffle Days producers display their wares in a big ÆÆVodnjan (vodnjandignano.com). August 23-24. of light. The ILA consists of many 3D artist with long experience in 3D The autumn truffle harvest is marquee, and there’s plenty of food, audiovisual artists, many of whom will visualisation, design and animation. marked by numerous events drink and music to keep the party Motovun Film Festival exhibit their works as part of Visualia On the last night, the Pula X Race will be in northeastern Istria, with swinging. All in all it’s a fabulous An international film festival SEPTEMBER 2019. Some 300 ILA members will held through the city bathed in light. village fairs and gastro-mini opportunity to learn about, taste and and five-day party all in one, also be holding their next conference ÆÆVarious locations in Pula, Sept 19 festivals taking up the weekends buy oil, in an area that’s famous for Motovun Film Festival is held in Pula during this event. (facebook.com/VisualiaFestival) between mid September and its high-quality production. in the beautiful Venetian town Outlook Festival early November. ÆÆVodnjan (dmmu.info). November. of Motovun, 270m above sea The premier annual event of the ÆÆBuzet (tz-buzet.hr) Motovun (tz-motovun. level. International and ex-Yu bass music scene, Outlook offers hr) Livade (.hr). Sept-Nov. films are screened at a number a party-minded soundtrack of Sound, Joker, Matt Jam Lamont, options include on-site camping, Pula Carnival of pop-up cinemas both indoors garage, dubstep, hip hop, dub, DJ Rap and Holy Goof provide the private rented apartments or DECEMBER The fifth annual traditional Pula Carnival be setting up at noon at a large marquee and out; screenings take place drum n’ bass and reggae for a sounds at the main site alongside nearby hotels. will be held on Saturday, February 23 – set up at the Karolina car park, where from early morning until around young and carefree international Manchester’s finest Chimpo, ÆÆFort Punta Christo, Štinjan near Pula OCTOBER though the whole event will be starting lunch and communal celebrations take 2am. Directors from around the audience. Chase & Status, Bugzy MC Fox, Chunky and MC DRS. (outlookfestival.com). Sept 4-9. Days of Adriatic Squid much earlier, on January 17, with the place. The procession will be calling at world compete for the prestigious Malone, Goldie (live), dBridge, Wednesday night’s opening show Winter is the season for squid- Handover of the City Key to the Master of the Arena, Trg Portarata, Sergijevaca, the Propeler Award, and interactive Grooverider, LTJ Bukem, Cali- at Pula Arena features Andy C, Buzetska Subotina Bela Nedelja fishing, hence this celebration of the Carnival at the City Hall. On March 5, Forum and Kandlerova, with themed events involving film experts and bre, Randall, Kabaka Pyramid, Mala & The Outlook Orchestra, (Buzet Saturday) (White Sunday) its culinary grandeur in the towns the burning of the bogeyman Pust takes floats gliding along Laginjina and the staff take place around Motovun Flava D, DJ Zinc, My Nu Leng & Loyle Carner, Shy FX (live), Gen- One of inland Istria’s biggest street A traditional folk festival that used of Umag, Novigrad, Brtonigla and place near the traffic lights at Veli Vrh. For Riva waterfront. Back at the marquee, the for those wishing for a little Dread MC, Ghetts, D Double E, tlemans Dub Club and Flohio. parties, culminating in the frying to be a major annual fair drawing Buje. Restaurants throughout the main parade, masked visitors gather, Big Carnival Party starts at 3pm with DJ in-depth insight. Aitch, Unknown T, Channel One The festival uses exactly the of a massive truffle omelette (made in merchants from the entire the region prepare special squid along with some 20 carnival groups from Teddy Lee and live acts Mauro Staraj & La ÆÆVarious venues, Motovun Soundsystem, Iration Steppas same as Dimen- with the symbolic number of 2019 region. Nowadays it’s a folksy menus, providing some idea of just Istria, Kvarner and Slovenia, over 700 Banda. Registration forms are available (motovunfilmfestival.com). August 23-27. and Sister Nancy & Legal Shot sions and again, accommodation eggs). There are plenty of stalls knees-up with morning mass how versatile this squelchy little participants in all, led by the Pula Wind from the Pula Tourist Office. followed by music dancing and creature can be. Orchestra and majorettes. Groups will ÆÆVarious locations in Pula, Feb 2020. workshops for kids. ÆÆVarious venues throughout northwest DISCOVER! www.istra.com/events ÆÆPlomin (istra-kršan.com). October 6. Istria (coloursofistria.com). December.

Time Out Istria 2019 16 17 2019 Time Out Istria Art & Culture Kažun Edited by Justin McDonnell Not so much a single building as an Istrian trademark, timeout.com/croatia/art-culture examples of the kažun can be found in fields all over Southwestern Istria. A small cylindrical structure with a conical roof, the kažun was built out of dry stone to serve as shelter for farmers and shepherds. Dating from prehistoric times, it was a form of construction that survived well into the modern era, and is now an enduring symbol of A history local heritage. of Istria in ten Our Lady of the Rocks, Beram The gothic graveyard chapel on the edge of Beram is pretty plain on the outside; the real surprise is what lies within. Walls and ceilings buildings are covered in incandescent fifteenth-century frescoes, arranged in narrative panels rather like a racy comic strip. Most famous scene is the Dance of Death, in which sinners both rich Jonathan Bousfield and poor are invited to hit the floor by a happy band of trumpet-tootling skeletons. The scenes explores the history of were painted by a team of artists led by a certain Istria in ten brilliant Vincent of Kastav, who signed his name above a buildings. side door of the chapel.

Pula Arena The Romans had a huge impact on Istria and it’s in Pula that their greatest heirloom is to be found. Dominating the city from its perch just above the seafront, the first-century Arena is as mesmerizing a relic as they come, its sensuous curves and arches set neatly into THERE ARE FAR TOO MANY fine Poreč Basilica sloping ground. It was initially designed to hold buildings in Istria for a list of ten With the fragmentation of the Istria ended 22,000 spectators, which gives you some idea of to do the region justice. Indeed, up under Byzantine rule, opening up the peninsula to the Roman Pula’s size and importance. Nowadays many of the peninsula’s must- architecture and culture of the Christian East. Poreč Basilica seating 7000, it still serves as the stirring venue visit sights are historic hill-towns; is the best example of what the Byzantines left behind, a for pop-rock concerts, opera, and the annual urban ensembles rather than largely sixth-century complex with a colonnaded three- film festival. individual buildings, they really aisled interior and an octagonal baptistery on the opposite require a separate top-ten of their side of the courtyard. Most famous feature is the dazzling own. The list below will provide mosaic-covered apse, with portraits of the Virgin and Child ten small insights into Istria’s rich standing together with a row of saints and holy men. Golden and complex heritage. mosaic tiles are placed at angles to catch sunlight at different times of day, bathing the aisle in heavenly light.

Time Out Istria 2019 18 19 2019 Time Out Istria Hotel Eden, Rovinj Veliki Trg (“Grand Tourism in Istria dates back at least to the late nineteenth century (and maybe even to Square”), Svetvinčenat Roman times), although it was in the 1960s and 1970s that it became the peninsula’s It might be stretching things a bit main industry. Since then it has been the hotel, not the church, the palace or the post to squeeze a whole square into our office, that has become the dominant architectural statement of the age. Designed by list, but this is the finest example Ivo Bartolić and Miroslav Begović in 1971 this is a perfect example of leisure-driven of Renaissance town planning in modernism, its 600 rooms neatly arranged in a series of interlocking concrete planes. the whole of Istria. With the walls Squeezed onto an awkward plot of land, and partly raised on pillars to take account of the Morosini-Grimani Palace on of the sloping ground, it’s a zig-zagging structure with two extended wings, giving one side, a handsome row of town it the appearance of a slowly advancing crab. It pretty much sums up everything houses on the other, and the trefoil that Croatian architects wanted to do in the Sixties and Seventies – an identifiably façade of the parish church looking Mediterranean form of modernism that would impress foreign tourists while staying on demurely from the wings, it’s true to local needs. the perfect example of what a town square ought to be. Most of the ensemble is sixteenth-century; the later addition of a loggia and a town well provided the icing on the cake.

Hotel Riviera, Pula After 1848 Pula became the main military port of the Habsburg Empire, abuzz with the comings and goings of naval officers, shipyard engineers, Austrian civil servants and – increasingly – tourists attracted by the mild climate of the Adriatic coast. Opened in 1909, the Hotel Riviera combined a fashionable mélange of Neo-Baroque, Neo-Renaissance and Neo-Everything styles, a handsome piece Hotel Lone, Rovinj of central Vienna trowelled neatly into Istrian Built right next to the Eden by soil. Once the haunt of international movie stars leading Zagreb architects 3LHD in attending the Pula Film Festival, it’s currently 2012, the Hotel Lone was intended a rather dowdy and old-fashioned affair – to function as a total work of art, a although its redevelopment as a 5-star lap of showcase of local talent from the luxury looks very much on the cards. light fittings right down to the staff uniforms (the latter designed by edgy Zagreb fashion label I-GLE). A dreamily organic structure with Pula Post Office lots of smooth curves, it’s certainly Arguably Istria’s one outstanding the kind of iconic building that example of inter-war modernism, dominates its surroundings. The this subtly angular building was Sveti Petar u Šumi sheer ambition of the Lone project designed in 1933 by Angiolo Definitely worth a stop-off if you are touring has inspired others in Rovinj Mazzoni, an architect who inland Istria, the knoll-crowning Pauline abbey (which is fast become a mecca specialized in railway stations but of Sveti Petar u Šumi (literally “St Peter-in-the- for students of contemporary was frequently on hand to design forest”, the name itself sounds like an invitation architecture), with the similarly other public buildings as well. to visit) encompasses pretty much everything organic Hotel Amarin (designed Mazzoni was careful to produce that's good about monastic architecture. The by Split-based Studio UP), and practical buildings that served main church is Baroque, cluttered with all 3LHD’s Grand Hotel Park, proving their purpose but never left out the manner of paintings and altarpieces knocked that corporate leisure architecture odd avant-garde detail: note the up by artists who were also members of the can be both ground-breaking and swirly spiral staircase that ascends order. Outside is a sublime Renaissance cloister, beautiful at the same time. from the building’s entrance lobby. with two tiers of colonnades and a sturdy- looking well marking the centre.

Time Out Istria 2019 20 21 2019 Time Out Istria needed, he completed his studies and shrugged Now somewhat derisive of the science of off the opportunity of pursuing high academia. astronomy, Korlević has helped direct the edu- Instead, he returned to Višnjan to take up a post cational centre into what he regards as more as a teacher in an elementary school. pioneering and prescient areas. The centre now While still a student there, in 1976, he had holds a biological laboratory, a geological labora- Searching already co-founded an astronomical society tory, a lab for advanced technologies and robotics, alongside another student and his teacher. After Korlević being of the opinion that the most valu- leaving his post at the elementary school, this able sciences of the future will be biology, astrobi- modest club, through his tireless endeavours, ology, artificial intelligence, robotics and genetics. would eventually become the major observa- Despite the gradual shift in focus, the same tory and educational centre it is today, its facili- ethos lies at the heart of Korlević's teaching for stars ties bolstered over the years by donations from process. Eschewing the systems of modern edu- private supporters and admiring sectors of the cation, which many think of as an exercise in Marc Rowlands meets international astronomical community. But it learning and repetition in order to pass exams, was not always an easy ride. Korlević's approach is to unlock the potential of Croatia's best-known 'In , the only place where you could the mind and to let it run free, aided by imagina- coat optics was at a military factory in Sarajevo,' tion and unafraid to learn by making mistakes. astronomer Korado remembers Korlević of the times of war in the 'One of our key mottos is “Best practices are Korlević and learns '90s. His observatory had already suffered a stupid”,' he says. 'Because, if you follow best major setback when Yugoslavia disintegrated as practices, at best you will always be second. that not all is what it all of their contacts for sharing information had Sometimes this works for us, sometimes it does previously been in Russia. not. But we always teach our children that they seems at the world- 'And so the telescope became an optical have the capacity to be the first.' famous Višnjan instrument of the Bosnia army. I received It is a modus operandi that has worked. a letter through the Red Cross in '93 from Despite Višnjan being a quiet, 600 person village, Observatory. a commander saying “I am wounded. And the alumni of Višnjan Science and Education probably the telescope will be lost. Sorry”. So, Centre can now be found as leaders in their fields we started to build a new one from scratch. It in the world of science and academia. Former cost 75 Deutschmarks, about 35 Euros. But, students now attend universities like Harvard at the end of the war, the Bosnian commander and Cambridge and graduates include Marija managed to save the optics and returned Jurić, a PhD from Princeton, winner of NASA's them. We no longer use them, it is just at the Astronomy and Astrophysics Research Fellow- observatory as part of our history. But it is also a ship and a professor at the University of Wash- part of the history of Sarajevo.' ington. Also, Silvia Gradečak, a lecturer at the After the observatory became fully Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), functional again following the war, Korlević Marina Rejkuba, an astronomer at the European more than made up for lost time. In the period Southern Observatory and Marina Brozović, who just from 1996 to 2001, he discovered 947 works detecting dangerous asteroids in the Jet asteroids and participated in the discovery Propulsion Laboratory in Pasadena. of a further 110, placing him as the18th most Despite the far-flung diaspora of former productive tracer for asteroids of all time. students, their teacher remains at home in the Over 1400 asteroids have been discovered in peaceful village of Višnjan, teaching by day, Višnjan, making it the twelfth most productive watching the skies by night and venturing observatory of all time. home for only a few hours daily to enjoy the 'We are a small observatory, run by teachers company of his wife and the menagerie of and students, yet we are the fourth observatory rescued animals they keep at their home. But, 'WE ARE LIVING in something called the 'Society is selling dreams. You can choose you would find on Istrian beaches in the same anything if you just go outside and see little in the world in terms of support for potentially having earned such a name for himself on the dream society,' begins Korado Korlević in if you want to be the buyer or the seller of period. But why Višnjan? Why Istria? dots in the sky without knowing what they are. hazardous objects which might hit the Earth,' global stage of astronomy, had Korlević never rather abstract fashion as we meet for lunch. dreams. We teach that it is better to produce 'Only stupid people make an observatory in I really only saw the stars after I started to read says Korlević matter-of-factly. 'We do 38 per- considered travelling away from the gently Standing well over six feet tall, aged 61, it is than buy'. the north Adriatic,' says Korlević, half laughing, about them. After reading, I realised just how cent of the work in that field for the world. If you rolling slopes of vineyards and olive groves that not merely his imposing physical stature and The 'we' Korlević refers to are his fellow half serious. 'You have clouds, rain and fog. But immense space is.' compare us with our peers, the Chinese Acad- surround Višnjan, in pursuit of this science? the wisdom of his years that make you submit teachers in Višnjan. For, although founded as an it is not the place of the observatory which is Books about the stars were not the only thing emy of Science, with 13 full-time employees, or 'If you are alone, it is simple to travel. If to his train of thought and listen intently; his observatory, the facility has grown to become important. It is a place to which kids can travel. the youthful Korlević read. A gifted student the European Space Agency...' you have a family, it is difficult. If you have incredible reputation precedes him. Korado the Višnjan Science and Education Centre. It would be better to make an observatory with a curious mind, by the eighth grade he had As alien-looking within the students, it is impossible,' Korlević is Croatia's most famous astronomer, In classic Istrian fashion, it stands outside of on one of our most remote islands, or on a read all of the books in his school library. But, in beautiful natural surroundings says Korado Korlević, as a man the public face of the Višnjan Observatory. A the regular school system and curriculum in mountain in the desert in Namibia. No clouds, a trait he now sees mirrored in his some of his of sleepy, continental Istria as 'In classic adamant his calling was greater relatively small facility, located in continental, Croatia. A privately funded centre of excellence no light pollution, no nothing. But it would be own students from the locale, his ambitions did the objects far from Earth which Istrian than the pursuit of career. 'In northwest Istria, it no less holds a global that teaches thousands of students of all useless to do so because nobody could come.' not match his abilities. He had every intention it observes, Višnjan observatory, fashion, the '90s I had an offer to move significance, thanks largely to Korlević’s work. abilities between the ages of 11 and 18 from Although he uses Istria's easy accessibility as of becoming a blacksmith or a tractor driver. despite its significance and the Višnjan to Arizona to take a position As a result, he is a well-known face in Croatia's across Croatia, it also welcomes hundreds of an explanation, Korlević does so modestly. For 'Often, if you ask kids “What would you like achievements, is viewed by there, but then one of the kids media, called on to appear in TV discussion youngsters with an aptitude for science, who Korado Korlević, like his ancestors before him, to become?”, many would say “A receptionist in Korlević as somewhat of a ploy in a Science and asked me ‘Professor, what will shows, offering informed opinions on science travel from all over the world to take part in its has always been in Istria. And it is probably true Poreč”, “A waiter”, “A cook”. But when you are greater scheme. Education happen with us when you go and the future. A kindly, personable soul with internationally renowned summer schools. In to say that without his foresight, determination working with these kids you see that you have 'The observatory for us is like Centre stands away?' I understood then that I tremendous communication skills, he agrees recent years, over 150 students have visited the and independent nature of thinking, the obser- the potential in your hands of a Nobel Prize the bait for a fisherman,' he says, outside of the had no right to go. I felt like the to these requests. But after no short time in camps each summer, travelling to Istria from vatory or education centre would exist here at all. winner. Their hopes are so low' smiling warmly. 'It is bright, shiny, regular school path of learning they were on was his company, it becomes apparent this is not countries as diverse as France, India, Japan, 'I was living in a place where you can really see After others had to almost force him to sparkly, exciting. But really we only something I had promised them his main motivation. Neither is astronomy, for Canada, USA, Russia, and Turkey, a the stars,' recalls Korlević of his youth spent in attend a well-regarded school in Pula, where his use it to attract the little fish. That is system and that we would do together. And so that matter. Korado Korlević is an educator. much more cosmopolitan cabal even than the local vicinity. 'But, it doesn't actually mean sponge-like mind could finally get the exercise it astronomy.' curriculum in that is what I did.' Marc Rowlands. Croatia. ' Time Out Istria 2019 22 23 2019 Time Out Istria Reading Istria SUMMER CLASSICS 2019 Jonathan Bousfield blazes ARENA Istria’s literary trail.

‘HE CHOSE AN ISLAND in the Adriatic, not he actually visited Pula in person. We know for PULA far off the Istrian coast… But the air was heavy, sure that Jules Verne never set foot in Pazin, it rained, the hotel guests were provincial and relying instead on postcards sent to him by the Austrian, and he missed that close, calming local mayor. James Joyce did spend six months contact with the sea that only a beach of soft in Pula but his dislike of the city is legendary, his sand can provide. It wasn’t exactly the place he letters describing the place as ‘a back-of-God- had been looking for.’ speed place – a naval Siberia’. Istria for Joyce Thus begins the holiday of middle-aged was ‘a long boring place wedged into the Adriat- professor Gustav von Aschenbach, protagonist ic, peopled by ignorant Slavs who wear red caps of Thomas Mann’s celebrated novella Death in and colossal breeches.’ The locals were at least Venice. By far the best-known literary descrip- forgiving enough to give Joyce a statue, which tion of the Istrian island of Brijuni, it is hardly can be seen sitting outside the Uliks (“Ulysses”) the glowing endorsement the local tourist board café in the centre of Pula. might have wanted. Thomas Mann visited Bri- The habitual belittlement and humiliation juni with his wife in May 1911, but soon tired of of the Istrian people inspired Croatian writer the place and headed for the city of canals and to produce the one work of gondolas instead. Here Mann came across the literature with which almost all locals identify. people and places that inspired the rest of his Veli Jože (“Big Joe”) is the tale of a tall gangly story. And instead of writing a book that might Istrian peasant who is exploited and abused have gone down in history as Life on Brijuni, he by Italian-speaking masters. Big-hearted wrote Death in Venice instead. Jože refuses to go under, and in Nazor’s The idea of a grumpy old Mann fleeing eve- hands becomes a metaphor for the quiet Giuseppe Verdi ryone else’s idea of paradise is an appropriately dignity of Istria’s long-suffering countryfolk. ambiguous introduction to Istria’s fleeting pres- Intended as a patriotic fable for children and ence in world literature. The peninsula certain- young adults, Veli Jože may well contain of scribbles. It’s just that they’re not always ly boasts enough bookish references to keep the lessons for the contemporary foreigner too: available in the English language. There is guide-book writers happy: fourteenth-century never underestimate the , especially however one great Istrian novel which does scribe Dante mentions the scattered graveyards when playing them at football. Veli Jože was have an international reach, and it comes from a AIDA / 25 July of Pula in the , Jules Verne uses translated into English by Martin Mayhew for quarter that does not easily fit into the Croatian Pazin as a location in his 1885 adventure Mathi- Rijeka’s Naklada Kvarner in 2015, although it’s national canon. Here the subjects are not the as Sandorf, and James Joyce famously spent the quite hard to get hold of. Croats, but the Italians who were pressured to Ludwig van Beethoven winter of 1904-5 teaching English to Austrian Slightly easier to find is British novelist Tony leave the peninsula after World War II. Fulvio navy officers in Pula. However Dante lived a White’s underrated travelogue Another Fool Tomizza’s Materada (named after the village rather long time ago, and there is no evidence in the (2006), one of those perceptive between Buje and Umag where Tomizza was and offbeat books that offer something of an born) sets a bitter family land-feud against the antidote to the straw-hatted, Zorba-ate-my- backdrop of a society slowly being torn apart. donkey narratives that blight English-language Written in the style of an Italian Neo-realist SYMPHONY NO. 9 travel writing elsewhere. It devotes a good film, Materada evokes the gritty, hard-working ninety pages to Istria and stands up very culture of the part-Italian, part-Croatian well as an informed and sympathetic travel rural population. Significantly, it is set in the companion. When it comes to Pula, White is early years of communism and examines the “ODE TO JOY” / 27 July intrigued by the James Joyce connections ambiguities of the new order: the wily and but doesn’t allow them to lead him astray, the resourceful jump onto the bandwagon of embarking instead on an the new regime, while those who Georges Bizet unorthodox agenda of his own. He allow themselves the luxury of goes off in search of Pula’s historic 'Instead of critical distance are manipulated cinemas, tracks down Seventies’ writing a or elbowed aside. Despite being movie star Igor Galo, and props book that a hit in Italy in the 1960s (where up the bar at the cult café of local might have Tomizza had moved in 1954), boxing legend Mate Parlov. Each of gone down in Materada wasn’t translated into CARMEN / 1 August these quests reveals aspects of the Croatian until 1986. Hopefully, city that other books rarely reach. history as Life the English version (Northwestern Elsewhere, there is no shortage on Brijuni, he University Press, 1999) is not too of writers who have come to wrote Death in hard to get hold of – this is the one Advance booking: www.eventim.hr Istria in search of inspiration and Venice' Istrian novel that is worth slipping CNT Ivana pl. Zajca Box Office gone home with a satchel full into your travel bag. Tel.+385(0)51 337 114 e-mail: [email protected] Time Out Istria 2019 24 www.hnk-zajc.hr www.summerclassics.live Music

THE COAST OF ISTRIA can rightly claim to be the earliest Croatian destination of the modern tourist era, its beautiful towns beaches made accessible to the elites of Europe via the country's first international rail connection. But in the century that's passed, Music improved transportation has gone on to reveal the whole of Croatia. , Split and its islands took centre stage in the story of Croatian tourism, stealing the limelight from the sparkling northwestern peninsula. Edited by Marc Rowlands All that began to change ten years ago with timeout.com/croatia/music the arrival of the international festival scene in Pula. First came Outlook Festival, the leading global event of the UK-born bass music scene, which incorporates drum n' bass, reggae, dubstep and subgenres. Next, its sister festival Dimensions appeared with a swish lineup of world-conquering house and techno DJs. Not only did the music of these festivals draw global plaudits, but so did the festival site, Fort Punta Christo. Its sprawling arenas were enhanced with lights, sound and production that marked these events as the best in Croatia and among the greatest in Europe. And when the press started to publish pictures of the festivals opening concerts, held within the spectacular backdrop of the city's astonishingly well- preserved amphitheatre, readers were amazed. Pula’s music festivals suddenly topped many's must-do lists. Within the decade, Pula became the third most googled place in Croatia behind Dubrovnik and Zagreb. But the arrival of these two international Sea Star Festival events isn’t the start or end of the story. Croatia's festival scene evolves every year. Istria's festival

The capital of bass Marc Rowlands takes the long view of Istria’s festival scene. Outlook Festival

Time Out Istria 2019 26 27 2019 Time Out Istria Outlook Festival scene may well look different in future seasons, Born in Šibenik, Meniga had moved to like The Clash, Ruts and Stiff Little Fingers but it’s essential to know that whatever shape Zagreb to attend university in the '90s, where bringing reggae into their sound.' it takes, it’s one moulded not only by the last he formed Abrakha-Dub-R, one of Croatia's Contacts Meniga made while touring inter- decade but by a 27-year history of homegrown first dub reggae bands. Touring interna- nationally were invited to contribute to Sea- efforts in the area. tionally, his musical path led him to Monte splash's first event in Pula in the late ‘90s. Audi- 'At the start of the 90s it was the only place Paradiso in Pula, a punk festival which, at 27 ences were attracted from not only the nearby you could hold festivals in Croatia,' says Vedran years old, is Croatia's longest running. After locale, but from all over war-ravaged Croatia, Meniga, whose Seasplash reggae festival is becoming involved with its organisers and plus Italy and Slovenia. The template was set. very much Croatia's own precursor to Outlook then its production, his experiences, coupled 'After seven or eight years of Seasplash we and has been held in Pula since 2003. It was his with his enthusiasm for reggae, inspired him received a request from the UK organisers of expertise in holding the event which led to the to found the reggae-dedicated Seasplash in Outlook Festival,' he remembers. 'They'd had arrival of the two international festivals and the same city. a disappointing second year and most of the to his Pozitivan Ritam organisation becoming 'That was our background,' he says, 'DIY, problems had come about because of their new partners in both. 'In the rest of the country punk rock. We just applied that to reggae and site in which they'd moved to from their there was war, but in Istria, there was no armed dub. The starting point for doing so had been first near Zadar. They called us to Pag for help conflict, so this was the natural starting point.' what was happening in the UK, with punk bands with some aspects of the production, lights, backline, technicians and so on. We did our bit, but at the end, I saw that they were still not satis- fied with the location. So, I invited them to come to Pula to see what we had been doing there. When they did, they decided immediately that they wanted to continue in Pula.' The festival site at Fort Punta Christo was not without its difficulties. But Meniga had already held Seasplash in three different locations in Pula. With Pozitivan Ritam's help, Outlook held a very successful first year in the city. 'In 1993 when we first started there were no venues, no music media. Everything had been destroyed,' says Meniga, who was the original promoter to present Fort Punta Christo as an event space at the first Seasplash festival. 'That's one reason we started to look at old forts, three or four around Pula, and to clean them up. Today, if you look at a tourist map or website for Pula, one of the first things you will see is Fort Punta Christo. Before 1993, it wasn't even on the map. In that time, people were using it as a garbage dump, taking its stones to build new houses.' Sea Star Festival From an unused and forgotten site on the city's outskirts, Fort Punta Christo became the

Time Out Istria 2019 28 Music TOP FIVE Music

also hold a beautiful-looking event in Cape FESTIVALS Town, South Africa, so they really know how to choose a good spot for a shindig. With previous IN ISTRIA editions having brought the likes of Blawan, Dopplereffekt, Egyptian Lover, Jeff Mills, Black Coffee, Jackmaster, Kenny Larkin, Martin Labyrinth Open Buttrich, Gerd Janson, Jeremy Uunderground, DJ Koze, Axel Boman, Juan Atkins and It looks as though the popular annual edition of Rodriguez Jr, you should expect nothing less this Belgian franchise might be skipping a year than the very best in underground techno, from its usual site in Omiš, Dalmatia. But rav- house and electro. ers can console themselves with this new event ÆÆLanterna, Poreč (lighthousefestival.tv). May 29-June 2. in Poreč which promises 36 hours of non-stop techno. The event will use several locations Dimensions Festival in the town, beginning on Friday night at club Byblos with an extended session featuring Pan- Celebrating its final year at Fort Punta Christo Pot, aka German duo Tassilo Ippenberger and and Pula Arena (though not necessarily their Thomas Benedix. They will be joined there by final year in Istria or Pula), expect Dimensions compatriot and resident Marcel Fen- to pull out all the stops for the end of a thrilling Dimensions Festival gler. Getting the headliners out of the way first chapter in Istria's festival scene. 2019 sees the is a good idea, because the length of this con- tinuous party may require too much stamina is no more important annual fixture than Out- for some. The party moves to the beach for the look. Not only is the festival significant for this global centre for the UK-derived bass music but in Šibenik. This surprise has been added daylight hours of Saturday, making it perhaps youth movement, it is also the starting point scene. Although this massively popular youth to by announcements from both Outlook and the country's first outdoor dance music event of for positioning Pula as one of the most famous movement had regular club nights, it had no Dimensions that 2019 will be their final year the season. It heads back indoors at club Zodiak destinations in Croatia. Like Dimensions, it dedicated festival, no annual focal point and at Fort Punta Christo. Although this news was for Saturday night and Sunday morning. Also waves goodbye to Fort Punta Christo and Pula nowhere for a growing number of international shocking, there are many reasons to be hopeful appearing on the bill are lots of homegrown DJs Arena this year after a decade of hedonistic fans to experience this sound. With Outlook's about Istria’s festival future. Not only is there including Mozer, Bronski and Andrea Ljekaj antics. Chase & Status, Bugzy Malone, Goldie arrival at Fort Punta Christo, all of that changed. a summer of riotous fun to be had at the last ÆÆVarious Venues, Poreč (facebook.com/ (live) and dBridge are among the main site head- Its success ensured sister event Dimensions was Outlook and Dimensions events, but Meniga labyrinthopen). April 26-28. liners with Andy C, Shy FX (live), Gentleman’s a more than viable expansion and the attention is adamant that this is not the end for Pula as Dub Club and Mala performing at the opening lavished on the amphitheatre's opening a host for world-class festivals. His glowing Sea Star Festival concert in the Amphitheatre. Grooverider, LTJ concerts put the venue on the world stage; its smile when discussing the future of a city Bukem, Calibre and Randall represent drum n' track record of holding opera and folk concerts he's operated in for almost 30 years is reason Though Croatia gets lots of plaudits for its bass at the main site, grime and rap contributors has now grown to include visits from some of enough to be optimistic. 2019 also sees the city summertime dance music festivals, there's no include Ghetts, D Double E, Aitch and Unknown 's big hitters, such as Pink Floyd's of Umag, in northern Istria, host the third Sea denying that one of the biggest success stories of T, with Channel One Soundsystem, Iration Step- and, in 2019, the Foo Fighters. Star Festival, its organisers from Serbia’s Exit the region is Exit Festival, held annually in Novi pas and Sister Nancy & Legal Shot Sound being The festival scene is a transitory and ever- Festival helping to attract many thousands of Sad, Serbia. These guys know a thing or two among the reggae contingent. Also appearing evolving beast and this year, Pula's event visitors to the city. Istria's standing as one of about putting on an attention-grabbing festival are DJ Zinc, My Nu Leng & Dread MC, Joker, calendar is changing. For the first time since Europe's key festival and live music locations that draws an international audience and so Matt Jam Lamont, Chimpo, MC Fox, Chunky the '90s, Seasplash will not be held in Pula, looks more than assured. it was no surprise to see them try their hand at and MC DRS, DJ Rap and Holy Goof. staging an event in Umag. Successful previous Sea Star Festival ÆÆFort Punta Christo, Stinjan near Pula editions in 2017 and 2018 brought the likes of (outlookfestival.com). Sept 4-9. to their grand stage which lies in the shadow of the venue where the famous ATP likes of Omar-S, Peggy Gou, Nina Kraviz, Joy Croatia Open is held, with approximately 80, Orbison, Helena Hauff, dBridge, Gilles Peter- 000 visitors from Italy, Slovenia, Austria, the son, Call Super, Andrew Weatherall and Craig UK and all over Croatia attending the weekend, Richards play at the fort, while the arena open- many filling hotel rooms in the nearby Stella ing concert will be handled by Objekt, Hunee Maris resort. This year’s event sees German and headliner Jeff Mills who will incorporate trance-techno legend Sven Väth and Nina Afrobeat rhythm pioneer Tony Allen into his Kraviz appear as headliners. live performance. Alternative sounds on-site ÆÆStella Maris Resort, Umag (seastarfestival.com). May 24-25. come from Sadar Bahar, Awesome Tapes From Africa and Mr. Scruff, pummeling techno from Lighthouse Festival Blawan and DVS1, electro from DJ Stingray and DJ Bone plus DMX Krew and Radioactive Man, This Austrian brand has looked unsettled since both of whom will perform live. Other live acts arriving in Croatia, as though still searching appearing include Larry Heard aka Mr. Fingers, for the perfect home. Indeed, rumours abound Octave One and Dam-Funk. they’re moving to Obonjan island in Dalmatia. ÆÆFort Punta Christo, Stinjan, near Pula Though the lineup for their 2019 event is yet (dimensionsfestival.com). Aug 28-Sept 2. to be revealed, the location is still Lanterna, at the tip of a peninsula between Novigrad Outlook Festival and Poreč. The site is one of the best in Croatia for beach parties, with dancers dipping in When it comes to bass music, the UK-derived Sea Star Festival and out of the ocean enjoying spectacular scene that incorporates garage, dubstep, hip- Outlook Festival sunsets as a backdrop to the beats. Organisers hop, dub, drum ‘n’ bass and reggae, there really

Time Out Istria 2019 30 31 2019 Time Out Istria Iva Stojković Pula resident Iva Stojković opened her funky jewellery business in 2009, releasing three collections using plexiglass and three newer collections of 'light' jewellery. This is upcycling at its best - the materials she uses are Shopping often cast-off pieces of materials used by industry which Iva turns into beautiful and imaginative designs. Her jewellery is available & Style at outlets in Rovinj, at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Zagreb, and at her own store Komo which Karlić Truffella blanc opened in Pula in 2014. There she The Karlić family’s truffle business sells selected clothes, home décor, was established in 1966 from accessories and jewellery, most Paladini near Buzet, the skills of which is designed and made for sourcing the local delicacy in Croatia. New to her shelves is passed down from grandfather Komo's in-house brand of the same to daughter and now to the third name, which sells belts, bracelets, generation, who continue to bags and other accessories, all expand their catalogue of truffle- designed by Iva. based products. Aside from selling fresh, preserved and frozen family- Made sourced truffles, the family also make liquor, oils, sausages, pates, cheese and honey infused with black or white truffles. In 2015, in Istria the company became the first in the world to manufacture a white Add these beautiful chocolate and truffle spread, Istrian products to your thanks to the home experiments shopping list. of sweet-toothed son Ivan. There's a dark chocolate version available too.

STAŠA Staša Doblanović was born and raised in Pula, where her mother's position as a costume designer piqued her interest in textiles from an early age. She created her own brand STAŠA in 2013 while still a student. Her contemporary Koza womenswear uses minimalist, clean and When looking for an outlet for her geometric cuts. The designs are inspired handmade accessories, Zagreb- by everything from modern architecture born Dora Zoričić and brother to contemporary Asian fashion and made Velibor fell in love with the Istrian sustainably in Labin and Pula. Her clothing has seaside town of Poreč, bought a won awards in Croatia, been featured at London house and opened their store on Fashion Week and graced the pages of British the ground floor in 2006. They fashion bibles Vogue and Glamour. spend much of the summer season there, attracting the attention of visitors with Dora’s eye-catching designs, which she usually makes in the workshop at their newer Zagreb outlet. Totally handmade, her designs are often inspired by the shapes of leather she obtains, often not knowing just what she'll make until she holds the raw materials in her hands.

Time Out Istria 2019 32 33 2019 Time Out Istria Mussels Eating Fresh mussels can be delivered to most restaurant tables in Istria within an hour or two. These are then prepared buzara-style, which is to say gently in white wine, olive oil, garlic and fresh herbs, not a thousand miles, Edited by Justin McDonnell in culinary terms at least, from the French timeout.com/croatia/restaurants moules marinières. Sea truffles are usually cooked in the same way, although scallops, particularly around Novigrad, are grilled and served au gratin. Istria in ten dishes On the coast or inland, Istria’s fresh, Pršut seasonal dishes from the sea and the Usually offered as a starter, ham (pršut) is a fields attract carloads of Italians over the real Istrian speciality, air-cured thanks to the border at weekends. Here’s ten dishes chilling wind. Look out, too, for kobasice, you shouldn’t leave Istria without trying. succulent sausages, not for the faint-hearted.

GASTRONOMY IS A WAY of life in Istria, its peasant traditions, fresh, seasonal ingredients and inventive chefs combining to make this small peninsula the destination of choice for epicureans. Italians flood across the border on Sundays to sample the best of it. The celebrated use of truffles, to season steaks or added to chocolate cake, is only one example of the sophisticated dishes on offer. Although good food can be found in most towns, resorts and villages, even remote outposts, certain establishments put the whole package together – ingredients, expertise, service and setting – to produce something truly memorable. Here local produce means local, best illustrated amid the stand-out restaurants in the gastronomic hub around the modest communities of Brtonigla and Buje. Oysters Croatian oysters have a more intense flavour than their Atlantic counterpart. The most renowned varieties come from the Limski kanal in Istria. The adventurous traveller will be rewarded by Truffles finding casual vendors purveying Istria is all about truffles: look out divine oysters by the side of the for restaurants with the ‘tartufo road or from a makeshift outlet, as vero’ sign, which means they’ve fresh as it gets. These are also sold met Istria’s high standards on the spot, and swallowed down for handling and serving the with a dash of lemon. delicacy. In Livade, weekends in October see the judging of the best truffle, cookery classes and truffle auctions: it is also home to Istria’s most famous truffle restaurant, Zigante.

Time Out Istria 2019 34 35 2019 Time Out Istria Tktktktkt Steak Fritule Inland restaurants are generally Little battered doughnut balls dusted with meat-oriented, menus listing powdered sugar and filled with rum and raisins. steaks, veal, lamb and ombolo, Different households may add a touch of lemon pork loin, a local favourite. zest or grated orange peel here and there, but the key here is sharing. Mention must be made of top-quality Istrian honey, a speciality around Motovun and Livade.

Fritaja Similar to Istrian fish and meat, fresh seasonal greens are worth writing home about. If you’re here in the spring, don’t miss out on wild asparagus, often served fritaja, chopped up and mixed with scrambled eggs.

Maneštra Other greens will appear in maneštra, a vegetable soup not dissimilar to minestrone, though Supa vegetarians should beware that Part nutrition, part drink and some chefs also chuck some meat 100 percent traditional is supa, into the pot. a warm red wine, usually Teran, mulled with olive oil, sugar and black pepper, and presented in an earthenware jug with slightly overtoasted bread used for dunking. Boškarin This Istrian ox was a beast of burden, having ploughed fields for generations. At some point in the 1990s, its numbers barely reached three figures. Then, with the revival of the regional wine and olive-oil industries, a few adventurous farmers began to turn once more to the traditional, grey, long-horned cattle their forefathers would have reared. Top restaurants began to feature it on their menus, usually served with classic Istrian pasta varieties such as fuži (noodle twists), pljukanci (thin tubes) and njoki (gnocchi).

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For futher information & atist bookings - tours and tap takeovers - venue playlists & event consultation: please contact [email protected] The Festival of Wild, Edible and Medicinal Plants Šparogada

The Festival of Wild, Edible or let the children join in special activities. winemaking equipment. Try some of the olive and Medicinal Plants There's something for every generation here, oils and spirits which are also evaluated here. Lectures and workshops provide a with hiking and a fun run engaging those The main event is naturally the wine and some fascinating educational side to this event, happiest being active. Compete in an asparagus of Croatia's greatest come from Istria. Take a which celebrates its tenth anniversary picking competition or watch the closely fought sip of each variety they make here and learn this year. Experts offer tips in cultivation, one for the longest asparagus. If you prefer a why Istrian wine is globally recognised. Cold, extraction and the medicinal use of plants and more leisurely pace, walk around the stalls cured meats and cheeses are paired with the herbs, and there are plenty of tasty recipes to sampling asparugus-based dishes made by wines and this local produce is the perfect try in the kitchen. Take home some of the all- local caterers. For many, the event's highlight accompaniment. natural products, purchased directly from the is the music programme where you can usually ÆÆPoreč, every May passionate producers who make them. Most watch some top-flight Croatian pop and rock are more than happy to talk to you about their bands alongside some fantastic traditional Festival of Istrian maneštra wares and how they should be used. musics like klapa. Beneath the smiles and theatre you'll see on ÆÆKršan, date (April) ÆÆKaštel, early April Gračišće's main square lies a seriously fought competition. Depending on the season and Šparogada Vinistra wine festival availability of ingredients, the traditional For fans of the delicacy, that this is an asparagus You owe it to yourself to get to know Istria's dish of Maneštra can be a wildly varied affair, festival is all you'll need to know to ensure a wines and this event, which is the largest and recipes can be argued about eternally. visit. But, even if asparagus is not your favourite international wine festival held in Croatia, Pulses, vegetables, meats and herbs feature vegetable, Šparogada's fantastic cultural and is the perfect place to do so. Rub shoulders prominently in this thick stew/soup, which may sports programme should entice you. Take part with people who really know their wine, meet remind you of a superior minestrone. Arrive in Boćanje (boules) or table tennis tournaments, producers and see the displays of the latest early in the afternoon if you want to learn the secret family recipes and methods employed, or arrive later, at the end of several hours cooking, if you just want to judge the results. The dishes are usually finished just in time for dinner in the evening. ÆÆGračišće, in June The Festival of Istrian pasta ISTRIA'S FAMOUS GASTRONOMY offers After visiting here, you'll have no doubts about some of best wines, olive oils, truffles, seafood pasta's rightful place in Istrian cuisine. Learn to and cured meats that you'll ever try! Produced make traditional and local pasta shapes from dab in this bountiful region over centuries, Istrians hands at the workshops or try pasta dishes made hand down traditional methods of production, by excellent chefs who utilise a full range of Istri- Food, ensuring quality remains at a constant an produce, including seafood, meats and veg- premium. Working traditionally means etables. Snack on local cheeses and cured meats Istrians are constantly aware of the changing while sipping Istrian wine. Istria's olive oil are seasons and their produce emerges at various globally recognised for their quality and you'll see times of the calendar. Such occasions are why when tasting the range on offer here. Best of celebrated with seasonal festivals which all, you can take home with you much of what you glorious food are sometimes as ancient as the methods of try here. Held in a time of year when the weather production themselves. Istria's food and drink is always fine, you will enjoy being outdoors at Istria is packed with culinary festivals often entertain the full family with this event, with family or friends, the festival events to satisfy all palates their attached entertainment programmes. being particularly pretty as the evening draws in The following highlights from the region are The Festival of Istrian pasta as much of it is lit with lamps and candles. ones which should not-to-be-missed. ÆÆŽminj, during July,

Time Out Istria 2019 40 41 2019 Time Out Istria Food festivals Food festivals

Truffle Days in Buzet, Livade and Motovun Marvel at the finds of this year's truffle hunting season and celebrate this ancient and elusive delicacy within an area famed for such. One of the most prestigious ingredients of world gastronomy, truffles are a commonplace ingredient of Istrian cooking, available on the menu year-round at many of the regions specialised restaurants. At Truffle Days, the whole of Istria's truffle culture is condensed into one event, so here you can learn all about truffles as well as sample dishes and products which use both the black and white variety, both of which are sourced within eyesight of the event's site. Regular dishes such as pasta dishes will delight, others such as truffle flavoured ice cream might come as more of a surprise, as will some of the prices reached at the auction of particularly grand specimens. ÆÆSeptember / autumn Subotina Festival This festival stretches back longer than the memory of its oldest attendees. You won't fail to be fascinated and touched by this heartwarming example of a community's determination to pay tribute and keep alive distinct folkloric traditions. Locals dress in traditional costume, some singing and dancing to music unique from the region, while artisans demonstrate carpentry, stonemasonry, basket- International Prosciutto Festival weaving and other traditional skills. The culinary highlight of this September festival sees a giant omelette, using a huge amount of maybe some fine cheese. Luckily, Istria has very same connoisseurs who say so will often the event offers opportunity to taste a huge locally sourced truffles, prepared for one and all bucketloads of both, not least at this occasion. speak with passion about an oil's freshness variety of oils and many dishes which use it. on the town's square. Istrian people refer to prosciutto as vijulin, holding the secret to its superiority. Here you'll You can watch cooking masterclasses, and be ÆÆBuzet, September meaning violin and they prize their local variety learn just why. The small city of Vodnjan is refreshed by the beers and wines which are above all others, thanks to its taste, smell, the centre of olive oil production in the area paired with what's on offer. An accompanying Chestnut Fair colour, texture and freshness. To work off some and even if you're not a connoisseur you'll sports programme will help you warm up, Walk around any Croatian town in autumn or of the calories you might acquire here, take recognise that there’s something extra special should the bite of winter have started to nip in winter and the aroma of roasting chestnuts is part in the programme of sports, culture and about tasting the year’s new product, fresh the night air. bound to hit you at some point, the scent usually entertainment which accompanies the festival. from the press. Celebrating 15 years in 2019, ÆÆVodnjan, November coming from an outdoor vendor who braves The programme engages attendees of all ages the cold all season. Now in its eleventh year, the and interests. Chestnut Fair in Oprtalj encourages residents ÆÆTinjan to harvest this nut which grows abundantly in the locale. Not only does this help them add to Istrian Grappa Fair their household income, it also contributes over As well as famously being called the smallest a ton of chestnuts to this event's proceedings. town in the world, Hum is known as a producer And you get to try the results! Munch on a of medicinal grappa, a sharp drink, strong in variety of chestnut based cakes and desserts or alcohol, which is made from mistletoe and buy a range of products which are derived from herbs. Locally, the town is also famous for the nut. Other seasonal food options are also holding the Istrian Grappa Fair. This year's available at the event for those of you who aren't event is its 19th annual edition and here you nutty about nuts. can try homemade grappa/rakija/brandy made ÆÆOprtalj from a variety of ingredients including cherry, quince, plum, grape, honey and walnut, as well International Prosciutto Festival as the famous and unique local versions. Now in its 13th year, the International ÆÆHum, October Prosciutto Festival in is one of the leading events of its kind not just in Croatia Days of New Olive Oil but also in the region. As you wander around Prior to Christmas and Advent festivities, vendors slicing thin strips off boned meat, you'll which are celebrated all across Istria (and be able to see producers from Italy, Slovenia, quite spectacularly so in Poreč), Istria’s last , Austria, Spain and all over Croatia. main gastro fest of the year comes in the form Truffle Days in Buzet, Livade and Motovun Most will advise that the cured delicacy is of the Days of New Olive Oil. Istrian olive oil Days of New Olive Oil best experienced with a glass of wine and is frequently cited as the world's best and the

Time Out Istria 2019 42 43 2019 Time Out Istria Advertorial Karlić – the home of the truffle A family industry dating back more than 50 years, Karlić now offers visitors the year-round opportunity to go on an authentic truffle hunt, as well as pick up quality produce created on-site.

TRUFFLES ARE more than just a sought-after ones by the kilo run into thousands of euros, were fewer locals looking around them with delicacy, a fungus found in dark forests, hag- black ones hundreds), the Karlić family lays dogs and torches. gled over then sprinkled on steak or pasta. In on year-round truffle hunts, an outdoor Nearly 20 years later, around the time of Croa- Istria, they’re a lucrative industry. Not only adventure that brings home just what this whole tian independence, Radmila and her husband that, but it’s an industry of family-run business- business involves. Surrounded by sun-dappled Goran set up their own company to continue es, know-how passed down from generation forest, this hunt for hidden treasure is both the tradition established by her parents, Ivan to generation. And not just between humans exhilarating and satisfying as the truffle dogs and Danica, and uncle Lucijano. As the business – dogs, too, have to be trained for very specific sniff out their prey. Two hours later, grew, so did the family, and now the tasks that provide locals with a livelihood. you’re back around the dining table third generation of Ivan, Ivana and It’s one thing to sit in a traditional tavern, looking forward to a delicious feast 'The Karlić others are very much part of it. or konoba, and order a classic Istrian dish fuži concocted with the day’s catch. family lays on The team is augmented by 12 pasta twists, say, and savour the flavour of those It was back in 1966 when a year-round dogs of various breeds, all hardy, quality shaved truffles on top – but another to certain Ivan Rašpolić set up in this truffle hunts, and all trained from the age of three appreciate the work that’s gone into putting venerable trade. He would head out months. By burying the truffle at them on your plate. into the woods, taking his ten-year- an outdoor various depths, the dog learns how nearby Buzet has become the City of Truffles, locals cook up the world’s largest frittata truf- promoting the region’s produce and cuisine, A visit to the Karlić Estate in Paladini, near old daughter, now Mrs Radmila adventure to dig it up by using its paws rather with major festivals and annual events alongside fle omelette, using more than 2,000 eggs and first staged in 2002. Buzet, deep in truffle country, should change Karlić, with him, and the pair of that brings than its nose, a painstaking process the regular year-round trade as far as black truf- 10kg of truffles. The frying pan alone weighs If you’re looking for somewhere to rest your all that. them would go hunting for truffles. home just of tuition and reward that moves fles are concerned. As for white truffles, they are 1,000kg. Held at the focal point of Trg Fontana head after the hunt, the four-star Villa Maslina More than just proffering truffle honey, At the time, the Motovun Forest, what this seamlessly from play time to seri- only in season from September until January. on the second weekend of September, just has a view of swirling olive trees and accommo- truffle paste, Istrian sausage with truffles, where these white and black pearls ous work. This makes autumn the ideal time to come to before the religious holiday of Saint Maria Mala, dates up to 12 guests. For smaller groups, there truffle butter and special truffle graters, not were found, was considerably more whole Just as the Karlić brand has Buzet. After an enlightening visit to the Karlić the so-called Subotina is the curtain-raiser for are truffle-themed apartments that feel as rustic to mention loose truffles by the gram (white extensive than today – and there business expanded and developed, so Estate in Paladini, you can join in the fun when the season-long Truffles Days, a culinary event and welcoming as the family home. involves' Time Out Istria Spring/Summer 2019 44 45 Spring/Summer 2019 Time Out Istria market. Degrees and diplomas in In more recent years we've even viticulture, oenology, business and enjoyed well-made charmat-meth- marketing are all taking a younger od sparkling wines! breed of Istrian winemakers into a Italians still queue at the bor- new dimension in the internation- der at weekends driving in to Drinking al wine world and it shows. buy Istrian wines direct from the Wine tourism has flourished; vineyards, as well as olive oils, brown signs point to wineries and wild mushrooms, truffles and wine trails. Within their vineyards asparagus. Cattunar has built a wine hotel at Ten years on we still enjoy Istri- Edited by Justin McDonnell Brtonigla; Meneghetti has gone an wine to drink something differ- timeout.com/croatia/bars for the Istrian farmhouse look; ent - wines that taste of the place both offer different styles of wine- and that pair so well with Istria's steeped luxury. superb local produce.

Bottoms up Pacta Connect’s Judith Burns drinks to ten years of recognition for Istrian wine.

CROATIA HIT the wine world in a hidden-away woodland wineries & Spencer asked us to source an traditional values, but wherever spectacular way in 2019, winning and Adriatic coastal vineyards, and Istrian malvazija for them. it's made we've watched younger eight gold medals in Decanter's we'd steeped ourselves in local fairs Producers have become proud producers overtake 'old hands', World Wine Awards (to Chile's and festivals. again of their own producing really four and Argentina's seven). So what have we seen change in vinous identity, no confident wines, Suddenly Croatia was hailed as the last ten years? longer planting lots of 'Italians still taking branding and 'a major force' and 'a serious player Prices have become a bit more international varieties queue at the labelling into con- in the wine world', which caused a realistic. In 2009, Istrian win- but concentrating on border at sideration, looking huge stir and scratching of heads emakers weren't used to British their indigenous, local weekends at their niche in the amongst wine journalists and con- pricing with our high levels of grapes of which they market and filling sultants, sommeliers and general alcohol duty and tax and the should be so proud. driving in to the gaps. wine geeks. Croatia? Who knew? competition on our shelves. With Some growers (for buy Istrian We've delighted Already enjoying half a decade high prices from the cellars, we better or worse) have wines direct in seeing quite timid in Istria tasting crisp citrusy or knew we wouldn't appeal to a mass built futuristic win- from the winemakers becom- floral whites and mellow or earthy market with these wines, although eries, Napa Valley vineyards.' ing a tour de force reds our research had taken us to we were delighted when Marks style, leaving behind on the international

Time Out Istria 2019 46 47 2019 Time Out Istria Tktktktk Top five Istrian wines THE AROMAS and tastes of each grape variety will vary depending on REFOŠK (red) the location of the vineyard, the soil (usually red or white clay) that it's grown on, the wine's age and how it's been made in the winery. But Lighter red, fruity, mossy, black- typically, here's a list of some of the characteristics you might find on berries, vegetation and hedgerow smelling the aromas and tasting the wines. PAIRING Pršut, salami, hard cheeses, tomato-based sauces with pasta or gnocchi

CHARMAT METHOD SPARKLING

Okay, we're cheating… it's not a grape 'per se' but some wineries where recently there's been more formal TERAN (red) training are now producing delicious charmat method sparkling wines Earthy, bloody (like a freshly from the grape Istrian malvazija. cut steak!), dark fruit, mulber- PAIRING For celebrations and an ries, iron, putty aperitif; or match to antipasti, PAIRING Barbecue and grills, beef shellfish and fish dishes steaks, sausages Fakin wines are a blend of commitment and experience, passed through generations at our family winery in Motovun. Taste the flavours of our fresh Malvazija, our aged Teran and Malvazija and our sparkling Chamal and come meet the family.

WHITE MUŠKAT (dessert white) BATAJI 20, BRKAČ | 52424 MOTOVUN, ISTRIA | +385 (0)92 23 99 400 | [email protected]

(Muškat bijeli momjanski) ISTRIAN MALVAZIJA (white) Off-dry, soft, lighter dessert wine (nothing like a sticky sweet (Malvazija istarska) Dry, fresh, Tokaji), notes of elderflower, net- citrusy and salty or more floral, tles, lychees. with aromas of white flowers, PAIRING Soft blue cheeses, nettles and honeysuckle. pears, fruit flans, apple PAIRING Adriatic seafood and fish fritule (dumplings) (try scallops and baby sole)

HOW TO... Become an Istrian wine expert

Follow the brown signs Taste and then buy chat about the wines including a tasting flight 1 They are everywhere, with the names of 5 If you rock up, enjoy a tour and a tipple with paired with a platter of cheeses, salami, pršut and wineries and wine roads to take. some Istrian hospitality, please buy something - this usually delicious home-made olive oil and bread. shouldn't be about enjoying a free drink, in many Phone ahead to book. Do your research cases, it's their livelihood. Show your appreciation. 2 Pick up a copy of the Istrian Tourist Board's Sleuth some hidden gems gastronomic guide published annually. It's not Practice the language 9 Ask for local wine tips in a local konoba definitive but it's a good starting point. 6 Although many speak English, trying your (restaurant). They will often serve their friends' or language skills will go a long way to please. family's wines by the carafe. If you enjoy it, see if Knock on wood Practice the basics in Croatian. Speaking Italian you can find out who produced it, then go and visit Once in Istria, 3 You'll see handmade written and painted will usually work too. them to buy direct. ‘Vino’ signs everywhere, from a farm gate to the front door of a family house. They may also sell Turn water into wine Always be respectful let's do the wines! olive oil, honey and even home-made cheese. 7 Don't be afraid to ask if you can fill up your 10 Remember a wine tasting is just that. It's empty water bottle straight from the tank. Many not an excuse to quaff in quantity. Do you want to experience something special and authentic? 4 What you see is what you get wineries are set up for this, watch the locals Finally, remember to have a designated driver Hint of real Istria in a glass? Hear the funny story of passion and devotion? Remember a lot of producers make wine for arriving with empty five-litre bottles. amongst you. Croatian drink driving laws are strict: Visit our wine cellar and join us for a tasting! friends and family; it's often simply easy-drinking Zero tolerance policy for drivers under 25 (blood alco- table wine. The size of the winery, investment in Go back to school hol level of 0%), and 0.5% BAC for drivers over 25. Krunčići 2, Sveti Lovreč, matosevic.com tanks, barrels, equipment, bottles and branding 8 Most wineries offer group tastings. Around will show you what kind of wine it is. 100 kuna gets you an educational and informative

Time Out Istria 2019 48 49 2019 Time Out Istria Advertorial Advertorial

THE 25 ACRES of vineyard and heart of our estate is composed which was recognised as the best and attention we lavish on our wine cellar belonging to Arman of a wine cellar, tasting room and young 2018 on the world terroir and grapes, all of which are Marijan wines have been in our open terrace with amazing views Malvasia competition at the Vinis- pruned, weeded, trimmed and family for over 200 years. Current over our vineyards, where you can tra fair in Poreč. picked by hand. owner Marijan is the fifth genera- taste our 14 different labels. Our The expert knowledge of our Our careful and traditional tion of Arman producing wine on white varieties include Malvasia, ancestors inspires everything winemaking process, coupled the southern slopes of the Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc we do, from the skilful blending with contemporary ideas and river, located near Poreč, Istria, and White Muskat, our red grapes, of varieties to produce our equipment, helps us produce some passing the family experience and Teran, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cuvee Superior (made of Teran, 80,000 bottles of award-winning tradition down to his daughters Merlot and Syrah. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot), wine every year, a thirty percent Ines and Nina. Our flagship wine, which holds and our Cuvee Superior Blanc minimum demanded by export. Having evolved into a fully the impeccable Vižinada terroir (made of Malvasia, Chardonnay ÆÆwww.arman.hr, [email protected] A taste modernised boutique winery, the , is our Malvasia Grand Crud, and Sauvignon Blanc) to the love of history

Time Out Istria 2019 50 51 2019 Time Out Istria Olive oil

Edited by Justin McDonnell timeout.com/croatia/restaurants

Liquid gold

Isabel Putinja praises the lists 79 top Istrian olive oil producers. Quality is also influenced by the production Mediterranean staple and takes Most Istrian olive oil makers are small, process. Olives are picked early: just as they're us on a tour of Istria’s oil routes. family-run outfits producing very limited starting to turn purple – this is essential to quantities of this 'liquid gold'. Though they preserve their high polyphenol content - and can't compete with the quantity made by bigger then pressed within 24 hours using modern ISTRIA IS OFTEN DESCRIBED as the 'new Italian or Spanish producers, they make up for mechanised mills. Tuscany', its landscape of rolling hills, pic- this by making truly exceptional oils, many Much like wine tourism, olive oil tourism is turesque hilltop towns and excellent cuisine of which are organic. In recent years Istrian quickly expanding in Istria where signposted easily comparable to the continental Italian producers have been collecting a growing region. This tag is now slightly worn out, but number of international awards for their extra it remains true that Istria’s many charms and virgin olive oils. Out of the 40 Croatian oils that gastronomic delights do easily rival those of won awards at the 2018 New York International Tuscany’s. Especially its exceptional olive oil. Olive Oil Competition, 29 were from Istria. Olives have been cultivated on the Istrian pen- Another marker of its high quality is the insula and pressed for their precious oil since official appellation 'Istrian extra virgin olive oil' Roman times. The 1600-year-old olive tree on which is already protected at the national level Veliki Brijuni island, off Istria’s south-west coast, since 2015 and will soon receive Protected Des- is a testimony to this long tradition, as are the ignation of Origin (PDO) status at the EU level. ancient terracotta amphorae once used to trans- This guarantees that all stages of the production port and store the oil, which lie on display in the process, from cultivation to processing and bot- cellar of Pula's . tling and packaging, takes place in Istria. Despite this long tradition, Croatia is often What's unique about Istria's overlooked as an olive oil-producing country. olive oil is its delightfully fruity The quantity of olive oil it produces represents green notes and the pungent, 'Olives only a small drop compared to Spain, the world's peppery effect it has in the throat: have been largest producer. But Istria, which happens to a sure sign it's high in polyphenols cultivated on be the Mediterranean's northern-most olive – chemical compounds full of the Istrian growing region, is now firmly on the olive map healthy antioxidants. While thanks to growing international recognition for common Italian olive varieties like peninsula and its high-quality extra virgin olive oil. leccino and frantoio also grow here, pressed for Istria has been named 'Best Olive Oil Region' Istria has plenty of its own native their precious by the 2019 Flos Olei olive oil guide, an honour cultivars like istarska bjelica, buža, oil since the region has enjoyed for the fourth year in a rošinjola, karbonaca and žižolera, Roman times' row. The 2019 edition of this influential guide to name just a few.

Time Out Istria 2019 52 53 2019 Time Out Istria Five olive Chiavalon. The most awarded Croatian oils to take extra virgin olive oil in the World. home An original Istrian product. Chiavalon Ex Albis 1 The Chiavalon brothers' high-quality organic oils are on the tables of high-end 100% ORGANIC | 100% ISTRIAN | 100% MADE WITH PASSION restaurants across Croatia and are exported across the world. Their Ex Albis oil is a unique blend of five Istrian olive varieties: buža, crnica, Istarska Bjelica, rožinjola and moražola. With a perfect balance of bitterness and pungency (the hallmarks of a quality extra virgin oil), this is an excellent all-rounder. ÆÆchiavalon.hr Brist Exclusive Selection 'olive oil routes' point visitors in the In 2017, Istria got its own 2 Of Silvano Puhar's range of five extra direction of local producers where museum showcasing the virgin olive oils produced under the brand Brist, they can sample and buy high-qual- importance of the peninsula the Exclusive Selection stands out. This limited ity oils. Family-run olive farms like as an olive-growing region. edition monovarietal oil is made of the Istrian Chiavalon [chiavalon.hr] and Brist Located in Pula, Museum Olei buža olive, known for its intense and pungent [brist-olive.hr] in Vodnjan, south Histriae (oleumhistriae.com) is flavour, and pressed from olives hand-picked Istria, offer guided tours of their an interactive museum dedicated from his family's oldest olive trees which are groves followed by a tasting session to the 2000-year-old history between 100 and 500 years old. of their oils. Tucked in the hills near of olive oil making in Istria. ÆÆbrist-olive.hr Konstanjica in North Istria is one The multimedia exhibits share of the region's most scenic olive insights not only into history but Oliva Lucia Select groves at B10 Istrian Fusion [b10. also fascinating details like how 3 Female entrepreneur and olive grower hr] which has jaw-dropping views amphorae were manufactured, Mili Kus produces organic extra virgin oil in the of the Mirna valley from its tasting the evolution of the olive press and fertile soil of north Istria, just a few kilometres room. Those who want to try their milling process, and even facts from the Slovenian border. Her newly intro- hand at olive picking can join in the about taxes and duties imposed duced Oliva Lucia Select is a blend of three oil harvest in October and November on producers during the Venetian varieties high in health-boosting polyphenols: at Aminess Laguna Hotel in Novi- Republic. A visit is rounded off with istarska bjelica, moraiolo and frantoio. The grad (producers of the award-win- an expert-led tasting experience of result is an intense oil perfect for pairing with ning Vergal oil) as part of a special local oils, all of which are available meat dishes, sauces and bold cheeses. tourist package. to buy in the on-site shop. ÆÆoliva-lucia.net Terra Rossa 4 Three generations of the Bellani family work the red soil of their olive farm in the rolling hills of central Istria to produce Terra Rossa. This organic blend of five olive varieties: istarska bjelica, buža, pendolino, frantoio and leccino makes for a balanced extra virgin oil with a medium intensity that can be paired with most . ÆÆterra-rossa.hr B10 First Night 5 Perched in the hilly landscape of north Istria, above Kostanjica, near the artists' town of Grožnjan, are the groves of B10 Istrian Fusion. Boris and Sanja Galić, a husband and wife team, produce a range of extra virgin monovarietals and blends under the brand name B10 First Night. This year they've introduced a monovarietal made of karbonaca, one of the older local cultivars. OPG CHIAVALON, Vladimira Nazora 16, 52215 VODNJAN - Istria - Croatia ÆÆb10.hr T: +385 52 511 906, M:+385 98 860 566, [email protected], www.chiavalon.hr Time Out Istria 2019 54 Advertorial

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Chiavalon Award-winning olive oil from a legacy estate.

FROM SMALL ACORNS, or rather olives, a Olives have been cultivated in Istria since did the rest. A few family olive groves, such as end result contained significant antioxidants have done, the new oil is first served with huge globally successful business has grown. Roman times, and almost certainly even before Sandi’s grandfather’s, were all that remained. – created particularly healthy olive oil of the warm, homemade bread – and thereafter, to Sandi Chiavalon was only 13 years old when he then. Because of Istria’s northerly latitude, The resurgence of world-class production finest quality. accompany fish or pasta. A bottle of the ExAlbis started out, helping on his family’s olive grove olives ripen later and produce few acids. They from the mid-1990s, in tandem with the revival Storage is equally important. Here at is a versatile buy, it’s fresh, nutty flavour makes in Vodnjan, planting their first 100 olive trees. are superior to those grown in, say, Dalmatia, in of Istria’s wine industry, sprang from ambitious Chiavalon, the olive oil is stored in stainless- it easy to splash over salads and the Atilio pairs Now, more than 20 years later, Chiavalon the south. Although each crop yields a relatively young producers such as Sandi Chiavalon. steel containers with inert gas at a constant perfectly with red meat. oversees nearly 8,000 olive trees, and export small quantity of oil, the quality of that oil is They not only saw this not only as a business temperature of 16 degrees. This way, oxidation Chiavalon’s oils can be sampled and bought in their award-winning extra virgin olive oil to quite simply the finest. opportunity but also as a chance to continue does not occur. situ, as part of a personal tour around the estate more than a dozen countries around the world. Olives were traditionally harvested by the work and respect the heritage of their Since 2005, Chiavalon have been showered in the centre of Vodnjan, north of Pula. You can Sandi had learned his love of cultivation from shaking the boughs of the tree – or even forefathers. with international awards – most notably their learn about the production process and how to his grandfather. When he was younger, as a small the whole tree. Today, in many parts of the Bringing in the agro-ecological technology Ex Albis being named among Flos Olei’s Top 15 spot authentic extra virgin olive oil as part of sev- boy he would visit his grandfather’s olive grove, world, machines do the work. Here in Istria, learned in Zagreb, Chiavalon focused on the Olive Oils in the World, and included in the Top eral tours and workshops - or customise your own then a modest plot of some 50 trees, all of them handpicking is more common as the terrain is five indigenous olive varieties of the Vodnjan 25 Organic Olive-Oil Producers in the World. The private, tailor-made tour at the family estate. centuries old. After his grandfather passed away, less suitable for machines – and because this region: Buža, Bjelica, Crnica, Moražola and Istrian peninsula scored the title of best olive oil there was no-one left to tend to them – until San- produces a far better end result. Rožinjola. Again, legacy was paramount in his producing region in the world four years in a row. di and his family set about bedding in new plants. It is said that only olive oil from Istria – Terra planning. Current products include Organic of intense Contact Chiavalon on +385 98 860 566 Inspired by his grandfather, Sandi took Magica to the Romans – graced the tables of the Another crucial factor in Sandi’s success was green, ideally paired with shellfish, tuna and or email [email protected]. The estate is the work seriously. First graduating from the Caesars. It was also exported across the Roman his decision to harvest early and process the all types of pasta, Romano for fish and mixed open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-2pm, Agricultural School in Poreč then enrolling Empire. same day. Little known at the time, this method vegetable salads, and Mlado, produced during closed Sun and holidays. Address: ulica at the Faculty of Agriculture in Zagreb, Sandi After the Romans left, olive cultivation in – carried out when about a third of the fruit the first three days of early harvest at the start Vladimira Nazora 16C, 52215 Vodnjan. gained the modern-day knowledge you need to Istria tailed off and an influx of cheap sunflower had changed their colour, and processing with of October, and only in a limited quantity of www.chiavalon.hr set yourself up in this competitive business. oil from Slavonia from the 1950s onwards modern-day cold-press technology so that the 2,500 bottles. As Sandi’s grandfather would

Time Out Istria 2019 56 57 2019 Time Out Istria Travel & hotels Travel & hotels DO timeout.com/croatia/destinations TO Hilltop home Splash about at Istralandia Dive into Istria’s biggest and best waterpark – for kids Emmy-winning travel host Ashley Colburn and grown-ups. guides us around her adopted home, the hilltop Taste local wine ÆÆ(052 866 900, istralandia.hr) town of Brtonigla. Local vineyards Cattunar and Veralda are great places to sample some great Istrian wines. The area’s other main wine producers Ravalico, Capo and Novacco are also fantastic. ÆÆCattunar, Nova Vas 94 (052 720 496, cattunar.net) I’VE SPENT YEARS travelling ÆÆVeralda, Kršin 3 (052 774 111, veralda.hr) around the world but I consider ÆÆRavalico, Nova Vas 101 (098 Istria home. This northwestern 219 045, f-f-ravalico.hr) peninsula offers surprises at every ÆÆCapo, Fernetići 60 (052 774 401, capovina.hr) turn. Scenic towns rise up out of ÆÆNovacco, Fernetići 70 (052 774 321, novacco.hr) the hills, with cobblestone streets playing host to a languorous Offering 14 rustic yet upscale vineyards around Brtonigla alone. Mediterranean life, overlooking rooms, replete with old wooden I would suggest trying Veralda’s sun-drenched vineyards and rows beams and period features, award-winning Teran or their of spindly olive trees. this hotel provides an intimate, sparkling wine, a lovely summery From its crumbling stucco boutique experience. If you’re drink, but you can also prowl local walls to its winding alleyways, looking to get away from it all, San farms and try wines made by small- Brtonigla’s postcard-perfect Rocco provides a wellness centre scale family producers. scenery is what first attracted me to with a pool and lounge overlooking Brtonigla is perfect for families. Sample local cuisine the town. I’m usually woken up by a garden of majestic, winding Istralandia, Croatia’s most excit- The hilltop town of Brtonigla is the roosters in the morning, or by olive trees. Celebrated for its ing waterpark, is based right here. a foodie hub and boasts a crop of the bells from the nearby church. gastronomy, the slow food tasting Voted the second-best waterpark in fabulous restaurants – my picks Mornings are spent sipping menu changes with the seasons Europe, it’s a cavalcade of fun water- include San Rocco, Food & Wine macchiatos under the shaded and dishes are perfectly paired based activities, from wave pools to Primizia, Konoba Astarea, Konoba canopy of the café, the beating with local wines. The oil splashed daredevil slides and toddler zones Silvano, Konoba Morgan and heart of the town. For village gossip over your salad is pressed from the for younger children. Truthfully, the Agroturizam Vinerino. and homecooked Istrian dishes, hotel’s own olive groves – you can adults enjoy it as much as the kids do. ÆÆSan Rocco, Srednja ulica 2 (052 Primizia is my favourite local even buy a bottle to take home. Make sure you’re here in August 725 000, san-rocco.hr) restaurant. accessible to cyclists. This path I first discovered Brtonigla after I have to admit, I’m a regular at for Brtonigla’s main summer event. ÆÆFood & Wine Primizia, Bunarska Brtonigla is best explored by brings you to yet another natural staying at San Rocco, a beautifully Cattunar Vineyard – they produce St. Roch’s Feast honours the town’s But this isn’t the only thing racing Go underground at 2 (052 774 704, primizia.hr) bicycle or by foot. The gleamingly treasure, set beneath the ground. restored farmhouse surrounded by excellent Malvazija wine and it’s patron saint, and the village buzzes through the streets. The next day, Mramornica cave ÆÆKonoba Astarea, Ronko 6 (052 774 green Skarline Nature Park is just Mramornica Cave is one of the an olive plantation. This hotel has within easy walking distance from with life as thousands come to locals, tourists and adventure junk- Admire the glittering stalactites 384, facebook.com/Konoba-Astarea) a few kilometers from the town biggest and most breathtaking helped to put Brtonigla on the map, town. North-west Istria is the only drink, eat and party into the morn- ies ride Istrian donkeys in the town’s and stalagmites as you descend ÆÆKonoba Silvano, Marconi 10 (099 707 2704) square. A verdant canyon with caves in Istria. A parade of icicle- with its Michelin-recommended place in the region where you can ing. My favourite event is the bril- celebrated annual donkey race, cul- beneath the earth. ÆÆKonoba Morgan, Bracanija 1 (052 a stream crisscrossing through, shaped stalactites and stalagmites, kitchen and effortlessly romantic find grey, white, black and red liantly eccentric Balinjerada con- minating in the main square where ÆÆ(099 250 2958, agroturizamsterle.hr) 774 520, konobamorgan.eu) it’s a fabulous place to cool off in its naturally cooling chambers are atmosphere. A family-run soil, and producers make wine test, when locals and their kids build the celebration continues for days. ÆÆAgroturism Vinerino, Druškovićeva summer. Bike paths connect the used by locals to store their wine at business, the Fernetichs show what varieties in all four types. You could non-motorized carts and fly them Don’t miss this year’s St. Roch’s Cycle to Nature Park 8 (052 774 417, vinerino.com) hilltop towns, so the park is easily just the right temperature. real Istrian hospitality is all about. spend the whole day touring the down the hill at lightning speeds. Feast, from August 14-16 2019. Skarline – and beyond ÆÆAgroturism Sterle, Stancija Drušković 20 Get on your bike and stop to cool (099 250 2958, agroturizamsterle.hr) Find more online at timeout.com/istria. off at the gorgeously green Skarline ÆÆLa Quercia, Fiorini 31 (052 DISCOVER! and its natural springs. 774 455, laquercia.hr)

Time Out Istria 2019 58 59 2019 Time Out Istria On your bike On your bike Travelling along Istria’s many biking trails is an ideal way to get an up close and personal view of the peninsula.

TRAILS HERE SHINE a special light on its total, 2,600 kilometres (1,615 miles) of trails in the culture. You’ll see the constant stream villages and character. You’ll also get a sense stretch across Istria in every direction. For of fellow bikers hugging paved roadside of the area’s history, which saw a succession a complete list, see www.istria-bike.com. It shoulders or gliding along macadam byways. of controlling groups starting with tribal makes recommendations for bikers’ hotels, And if you are gastronome with a need to grind Histrian clans, which submitted to the hire companies, sights to visit on the way and gears, you’ll have the chance to earn that post- Romans in the third century BC. There are solid dining venues. If you are a ride bowl of pasta smothered in reminders of the different rulers and their mountain biker or experienced truffles at trail’s end. prevailing architecture at every turn of the road cyclist who prefers to 'The first The most numerous trails are handlebars. The pedalling is a mixed bag. enjoy their landscapes through thing you’ll found in the undulating terrain of There are asphalt-only routes, where cyclists wraparound lenses rather than a notice here the interior. One combining both are comfortable atop the skinny wheels of car’s windshield, the first thing are the rolling grit and gourmet is the Truffle’s their road or touring bikes. The 93.5-kilometre you’ll notice here are the rolling Trail, which is about 60 per cent tar- (58-mile) Montanara Trail climba-thon hills and the seemingly endless hills and the mac riding (40 per cent asphalt) and from Umag, which loops northern Istria, is possibilities for being on two seemingly begins and ends in Buzet. Starting a fine example of such a route. For the most wheels. If you’re not a seasoned endless at the foot of the Ćićarija Mountains, part, plan on a mountain-bike demanding rider, you’ll love the chance to possibilities' the route covers nearly 35 kilome- combination of asphalt and macadam in spin around Rovinj, for instance, tres (22 miles) and takes three hours varying ratios depending on preference. In at human speed while soaking to complete.

Time Out Istria 2019 60 61 2019 Time Out Istria The elevation gain is 870 metres (2,850 feet). spring called the ‘Tears of St Lucia’, which, Captain Morgan hid his treasure and himself Buzet, known to the Romans as Piquentum, according to legend, can help those with bad near the canal while on the run. This moderate was the seat of Venetian government in Istria; vision. From here, you’ll be bombing it downhill biking route, of equal parts path and road, starts its architecture, including two town gates and until Ravni beach. Take a swim and enjoy the just south of Rovinj and makes a 61-kilometre a Baroque well, serve as reminders. Equally rest – you’ll need it for the steady 14-kilometre loop around the canal’s head, through the town importantly for today’s riders, it is also the City of (nine-mile) climb along the eastern seaside that bears the pirate’s name – Mrgani, where his Truffles. From here you’ll head south and begin rim of the trail back to Labin. For culture, the St treasure is reportedly buried – before travelling an almost immediate steep climb, and then skirt Euphemia trail, which rolls through Rovinj, is south again through the beautiful cobbled town below the hilltop village of Vrh. At this point the an ideal choice. A medieval town that was an of Bale. On the north side of the canal, the Casa- trail dives and soars until it again starts to head island until 1763, when the channel separating nova trail is a quick, easy 22-kilometre (14-mile) north following the Mirna river. At the two-thirds it from the mainland was filled, Rovinj is Istria’s ramble which begins and ends in Vrsar, where mark and after a descent, the path makes what main tourist attraction, with scores of galler- the famous lover visited on two occasions in the T +385 52 465 000 has to be considered one the best-planned ride ies, fine restaurants and a posh atmosphere. St 18th century for wine and women. The route GIRANDELLA MARO SUITES 5* E [email protected] stop-offs in Istria: the Yugo-era thermal spas Euphemia refers to the grand church atop the follows much of the length of the Limski kanal, www.valamar.com of Istarske Toplice. The Bella Vista trail, which hill guarding the city. The ride takes in Rovinj’s moving east from the mouth. More than 75 per begins and ends in Labin, is filled with what its sights with a majestic view of the town and the cent tarmac, it is a roll through the country and A TRUE FAMILY title suggests: magnificent panoramas of Kvarn- Adriatic beyond. The circular route starts just relatively flat, so the trip should only take 90 er Bay and a continuous string of photo-ops. This south of Rovinj at the campsite in Polari, a coastal minutes. One of the longest and most challeng- HOLIDAY PARADISE ULTRA easy-going to moderate trail is three-quarters resort. A straightforward 27-kilometre (17-mile) ing trails is the Motovun East ride, completely ALL INCLUSIVE asphalt so there’s less need to worry about loose ride with negligible altitude change, it spends asphalt and cycle-friendly. At 72 kilometres stones when readying the camera. the majority of its time on asphalt. (45 miles) it should take about four hours, but Created with children in mind, Girandella Maro Suites are hidden in The route travels 33 kilometres (20 The jaunt takes about two hours and be warned that this route gains a total of nearly a pine forest next to a string of thematic pebble beaches. Completely miles) and should take roughly two 'You’ll have passes a good handful of medieval 1,500 metres (5,000 feet) en route. The circular child-friendly, it is fi lled with amusement and adventure from heated hours to complete. The loop leaves the chance churches while travelling north ride starts with a heavy climb to the perfectly pre- the Old Town main square of this to earn that and inland before heading south served Old Town of Motovun which stands over indoor and outdoor pools with water eff ects to Super Maro and Teen art-filled city and first heads inland, post-ride and back to the coast. It also comes the truffle-filled forest and Mirna river below. facilities, with professional minders at hand. down the tiny, mini-peninsula in within a stone’s throw of the Limski This view attests to the town’s former status as which Labin sits at its most norther- bowl of pasta kanal, best known for its oysters. Up Istria’s communications hub. Past the Butoniga Evenings are fi lled with fun and magic, if long days at the pools do ly point. The route stays at between smothered in the coast, the Trail of Captain Mor- Lake, the road rushes by the medieval settlement not send you to bed early. 300 and 500 metres (985-1,640 truffles at gan and Casanova are two rides that of Draguć and down to Istria’s administrative feet) in altitude until it reaches the trail’s end' straddle the Limski kanal and pro- centre of Pazin and its castle built in 983. From As of summer 2019, you can enjoy our extended food and beverage Skitača mountain hut. vide a quirky microscope on Istrian here it is mostly a descent back to the car park at service, a range of new attractive experiences, and also our Ultra All About one kilometre away is a history. As the story goes, pirate the bottom of Motovun. Inclusive package. Time Out Istria 2019 62 Advertorial Advertorial

Valamar Collection Isabella Island Resort If you are looking to stay on an island, but still have easy access to Poreč, consider Valamar Collection Isabella Island Resort. A free boat ride takes you to the island of Sveti Nikola, a crowd-free getaway completely surrounded by lush Mediterranean vegetation, pine trees, landscaped gardens and the pristine blue of the Just beachy Adriatic. Here, five choices of lodgings – hotel, villas, V-Level villas, suites and apartments – sit alongside a sports centre, spa complex, three Where to stay and relax in Istria pools containing seawater and freshwater options (two of which are heated) and seven with Valamar. individually themed beaches. Adults can choose the secluded Val Riviera Relax Beach, families have four beach options dotted around the island, while exclusive V-Level guests have their own private beaches and private pools too. For active travellers, sports activities are around every corner and you can start the day with yoga or aerobics, hire a motorboat, go parasailing, rent a kayak, or learn how to dive, surf, sail or SUP. A communal game of beach volleyball or street basketball can bookend another perfect day. Those looking to maintain their fitness routine can sign up for one of the Stay Fit programmes, featuring at least five activities PICTURE-POSTCARD Istria has something each day with aqua aerobics, Nordic walking, to offer everyone, from families and romantic Zumba and Pilates to choose from. Holidays couples looking to relax to those seeking a have never been so healthy. more active holiday. Whatever holiday you’re ÆÆvalamar.com/en/hotels-porec/valamar-isabella-island-resort looking for, you can expect the finest service and gastronomy of the highest standard at Valamar’s luxury 5-star resorts. Whether you’re coming as a couple, as a family or as a group of active travellers, you can make our 5-star options near Poreč and Rabac your base before the exploring the beautiful surroundings of Istria. The Istrian peninsula gleams with lush greenery, crystal-clear sea Valamar Collection Girandella Resort and offers unforgettable cuisine. Now the Full of gorgeous shingle beaches, in Rabac, choice depends on if you are looking to relax the Valamar Collection Girandella Resort or get active in the sun. has been created with three types of visitors in mind; families, adults-only and exclusive Valamar Collection Marea Suites V-Level customers. Opened in 2019, the Valamar Collection Marea For romantic couples, the guestrooms have Suites comprise superior V-Level luxurious spacious showers and some rooms are fitted lodgings for families, with and sea with a hydro-massage tub made for two. From views, just steps away from a sandy beach in its the Beach Club and infinity pool to the child- own cove. Surrounded by dense pine forest ten free Rebelle Restaurant, it’s all geared towards minutes from the historic centre of Poreč, the spending quality time with your partner. Valamar Collection Marea Suites has four pools Families can find fun activities for kids of for all ages – a shallow splash pool for babies, all ages, from the Baby Club to children's club a children’s pool lined with water slides, an Maro, catering for two age groups, its tried and infinity sea-water pool alongside the Beat Beach tested programmes are popular with teenagers. Club, and a huge activity pool with an equally Elsewhere, you’ll find Finnish, steam and spacious area for sunbathing. aroma saunas in the spa centre, plus a solarium Parents can take advantage of the profession- and whirlpool, and trails a-plenty as part of al child-care and babysitting services on site, the Bike Park Rabac. V-Level customers can entertainment programmes and playrooms enjoy a private pool or even a private beach and cater to children up to 12, while a Teen Hangout more adventurous couples can opt to rent a zone, sports and gaming tournaments, and an speedboat, go scuba diving or try their hand at open-air cinema appeal to 13s and over. If that’s windsurfing at the V Sport Point. Experience not enough, tennis courts, a spa centre and gym the brazenly beautiful Adriatic coast in Rabac are available. It’s total paradise. and have a holiday like no other with Valamar. ÆÆvalamar.com/en/hotels-porec/valamar-marea-suites ÆÆwww.valamar.com/en/hotels-rabac/valamar-girandella-resort

Time Out Istria 2019 64 65 2019 Time Out Istria Brijuni Brijuni

halves of one big imperial show – the former of actors, artists and writers – the latter in symbolized Austria’s maritime might, while particular were highly valued by Kupelwieser the latter demonstrated the kind of paradise because of the word-of-mouth publicity they available to anyone able to enter its economic tended to generate. However Brijuni’s island and cultural elite. location and intimate scale ensured a rather Popular with aristocrats right from the start, select public, eager to socialize with their social Brijuni’s most esteemed regular was Archduke or intellectual peers. Franz Ferdinand, the heir to the Austrian throne During World War I Brijuni served as the base whose assassination at Sarajevo provoked the of Austria’s submarine fleet, with elite marine slide to war in 1914. The Archduke wanted officers replacing elite tourists in the resort’s to buy a part of Veli Brijun for himself, but hotels and restaurants. However the Austrian Kupelwieser constantly stalled, aware that the Empire was to collapse utterly in the autumn notoriously bossy heir would end up taking over of 1918, and the Brijuni islands were awarded the whole island given half the chance. to Italy by post-war peace-makers. Brijuni Brijuni attracted high aristocracy and had to adapt to a new kind of tourist industry company directors, but also a large number in which the Austrian elite had disappeared,

Tito’s Shangri-La

Known for its dinosaurs and dictators, Brijuni is a surreal collection of islands famous for their association with Tito.

THE WORLD OF THE UPMARKET hideaway vineyards, holiday villas and a small hotel. Only The transformation of Brijuni from natural with its swanky harbour, spa facilities, bespoke gradually did it dawn on him that Brijuni would wilderness to leisure-industry wonder was entertainment and private beach is far from make the perfect luxury resort. The pre-World something that Austrian newspapers never being a modern invention. If the Roman villas War I tourist industry was largely focused on tired of talking about; in a way Kupelwieser’s scattered along the Istrian coast are anything to the health benefits of mild climate, sea air and creation of an Adriatic Eden was a metaphor go by, the idea of the purpose-built holiday par- fragrant local flora: a combination that made for Austria’s imperial destiny, turning Europe’s adise has been around for at least 2000 years. Brijuni an ideal destination. However it took semi-civilized southeastern fringes into a However Istria’s most famous example of a a decade and a half of hard work to bring the zone of refinement and culture. The fact that sea-lapped Shangri-La is at Brijuni, the group islands up to scratch. Scrub was cleared and Kupelwieser employed hundreds of local of islands purchased by Austrian steel magnate replaced by landscaped forest park. Malaria people to do it allowed the Viennese press to Paul Kupelwieser in 1893. Nowadays a national was eliminated by inviting world-famous treat him as a symbol of Austrian noblesse park, the archipelago has at various times bacteriologist Robert Koch to come up with a oblige, a philanthropist and humanist rather in its history served as high-society holiday systematic plan to cure the local inhabitants than an oligarchic dreamer eager to control a resort, U-boat base and meeting point for the and clear the swamps. Hotels were built, and private world. international political cream. Combining the safari-park pioneer Karl Hagenbeck was called Getting to Brijuni usually involved a 13-hour aura of the European belle-epoque with the upon to create an open-plan zoo filled with train journey from Vienna to Pula, main port slightly menacing mystique of a Bond villain’s deer, monkeys and exotic birds. It was not the of the Austrian navy, before catching a small lair, Brijuni is imbued with a that few first time that someone had tried to create steamer to the islands themselves. Filled with other places can match. their own corner of paradise on the shores of huge grey battleships at anchor, Pula harbour Paul Kupelwieser’s initial aim was to turn the , but Brijuni was on a scale far made a huge impression on those who passed the islands into a family estate comprising bigger than anything attempted before. through. Indeed Pula and Brijuni were like two

Time Out Istria 2019 66 67 2019 Time Out Istria Brijuni replaced by a more cosmopolitan crowd who favoured dance orchestras and cocktails rather than military bands and five-o’clock teas. Istria for kids Kupelwieser’s son Karl invested in golf course and polo stables in an attempt to lure the beau Edited by Marc Rowlands monde. It was an expensive way to rebrand the island, and the international polo crowd was in any case a relatively small group who rarely stayed more than a few days at a time. The British Mediterranean fleet brought their polo WITH ITS INCREDIBLE food and teams here every year, but the visitors stayed wine, connoisseur-level olive oil and ate on their ships, bringing little money into and ancient architecture, Istria the Kupelwieser coffers. can seem like a very adult destina- The post-1929 depression led to falling tion. And indeed it is. But Istria is tourism and rising debts; unable to service also a fun and family-orientated the latter, Karl Kupelwieser crept off to an region with some of the best isolated bay and shot himself in 1930. The theme parks in Europe. Chuck in remaining family members tried to keep the the pristine beaches and sunny business afloat, eventually selling out to the skies and there really is no better Italian government in 1936. A short period place to take the kids on holiday. of optimism, characterized by rising tourist hobby. Vanga’s orchards produced mandarins, figures who visited Tito on Brijuni would add numbers and fresh investment, was followed by which Tito famously distributed to children up to an A-to-Z of pretty much everyone who Bicycle or hike the the calamitous year of 1938, when international throughout the country, and also lemons, held any importance in the years 1954-1980. trail of the rail tensions and fear of war meant that most would- bananas and kiwi fruit. Providing Brijuni an added veneer of glamour The Parenzana Trail follows the be travellers opted to stay at home. The resort’s Tito spent less time on Vanga after 1977 was Tito’s habit of inviting non-political route of the railway that once Christmas Dinner of December 1938 attracted a - allegedly because he didn’t like the way it celebrities to the islands – not just Yugoslav connected Poreč and Trieste grand total of two paying guests. had been refurnished, but also because he artists, writers and opera divas but also many but in 2002 the disused line was The residual glamour of Brijuni exerted a couldn’t stand being on holiday with spouse of the international film stars who happened turned into a path for bicycling strong pull on Yugoslavia’s post-war leader Jovanka. The Yugoslav supremo spent to be making films in Yugoslavia or who had and walking. Its 61 kilometres , who chose the islands as the summers of 1977, 1978 and 1979 in a been invited to the film festival in nearby Pula. (38 miles) provide an interesting one of his many private residences in 1947. marquee set up opposite a former Byzantine Sophia Loren, Richard Burton, Liz Taylor and and fun route through beautiful It was an odd but revealing choice for the fort where archeological excavations were Gina Lollobrigida all stayed in the villas of Veli countryside, passing over bridges communist leader of a supposedly egalitarian taking place. It was here in 1977 that he Brijun, and were frequently invited to Tito’s and through old stone tunnels. It society. Staying on Brijuni set Tito apart from hosted fellow canvas enthusiast Muammar own summerhouse on Vanga. According to is almost completely tarmacked his comrades in the party and put them at a Ghadaffi, one of the numerous foreign leaders anecdote, Sophia Loren made herself busy for the comfort of those using it, profound disadvantage, forcing them into the to beat a path to the island. in Tito’s kitchen supervising the cooking of but that doesn’t detract from the position of behaving like grateful holiday guests The role of Brijuni in international diplomacy pasta; Richard Burton studied the Tito at close wonderful sense of being at one on someone else’s land. was an essential part of its mystique. Soviet quarters in preparation for playing him in the with nature as you pass forested Government officials filled former hotels; strongman Nikita Khruschev hurried here in epic war film Sutjeska in 1973. areas, rolling hills and picturesque and new accommodation was built to accom- 1954 in a (largely unsuccessful) attempt to heal Regardless of whether it really happened, the agricultural land. Today known modate more. Tito lived in the former villa of Yugoslavia’s rift with Moscow; Indian leader idea of international glam-puss Loren cooking as ‘The Route of Health and the Duke of Spoleto before the construction of Nehru and Egyptian President Nasser came up cannelloni for Yugoslavia’s dandy dictator Friendship’, the trail Savudrija, his official residence, the White Villa, in 1953. to sign the Brijuni Declaration, foundation makes for an arresting mental image. Brijuni home to the oldest lighthouse in the However the White Villa was not secluded stone of the Non-Aligned Movement, in the was the Adriatic’s longest-running soap-opera Adriatic, Buje, Grožnjan, Oprtalj, enough for Tito, who had an additional summer same year. Visits by Che Guevara and Yasser of prestige and power, with film stars, world Livade, Motovun, Forest and Mirna house built on the islet of Vanga. Here he could Arafat helped to burnish Tito’s revolutionary leaders and the communist hierarchy mingling river and also Vižinada, whose enjoy a private pebble beach, a fishermen’s credentials, while the state visit of Queen together in the popular imagination, as if they town square features a well built saloon decked out in nets and lanterns, a ‘Mac- Elizabeth II in 1972 confirmed Tito’s position had all been somehow invited to the same in 1722. Several churches, most edonian room’ full of Balkan woodcarving, and on the A-list of international diplomacy. cocktail party. There was never any other island notably the beautifully frescoed a photography lab where he could indulge his Listing all of the international political like it, and it is unlikely there will ever be again. St Barnabas, and the nearby Oklen lavender fields, also await. Fishy fun The most spectacular sights beneath Istria’s immaculate seas often lie too deep for the youngest visitors to catch with simple snorkelling gear or salt-tired eyes. But that doesn’t mean they have to miss out. There are four great aquariums along the south and west coasts of Istria. Pula Aquarium, the largest, is set inside the impressive Verudela Fort, a short walk from arguably the city’s best beaching area - a great place to hide from the sun when it’s at it fiercest. There are 30

Time Out Istria 2019 68 69 2019 Time Out Istria Istria for kids exhibits including a touch pool: an open-topped basin where visitors can pet the scary shark-shaped dogfish. There’s also turtles, crabs and sundry sea creatures. A through the back of the fortress leads to a freshwater pond containing fish native to Croatia’s lakes and rivers. Other exhibits include fishermen’s nets and traps, and underwater photography. The Pula Aquarium is also the home of the Marine Turtle Rescue Centre. One of Istria’s oldest aquariums is found along the west coast in Rovinj and based at the Ruđer Bošković Institute’s Centre for Mar- itime Research. A decent collection of residents include a fearsome octopus, scorpion fish and lobsters. Further north, the Poreč Aquar- ium is in the heart of the old area of the city, so easily fits in with other sightseeing expeditions. A modern venue, it contains 25 tanks display- ing fish, flora and fauna from the Adriatic. Many artefacts have been donated by local fishermen. The Umag Aquarium in the north-western tip of Istria, is owned by the same company that Aquacolors Aquapark, Poreč runs the aquarium in Poreč and Istralandia oasis of fun packed waterslides, Dino Park is quite similar. Opened in 2005 Istralandia is Croatia’s most wave pools and toddler areas. Following in the footsteps of and set in a shopping centre near exciting waterpark, located just Istralandia has been voted the Jurassic Park and the Walking dinosaur models, many of which the Old Town, it contains 25 tanks, outside of the beautiful hilltop second best waterpark in Europe, With Dinosaurs series, Dino Park move mechanically, there’s all including one open-topped pool, town Brtonigla. Surrounded by lush complemented by its stunning near Funtana brings dinosaurs to manner of fun things to do at the all featuring species native to the forest, rolling fields and greenery setting and proximity to the sea. life, aiming to educate and thrill site including a children’s train, Adriatic. for as far as the eye can see, it is an ÆÆBrtonigla (052 866 900, istralandia.hr) young visitors. As well as life-size a dinosaur-themed children's cinema, a pirate ship, carousel, trampolines, a playground and a prehistoric workshop. A nature trail also gives visitors a peek into our prehistoric past and provides a thought-provoking distraction to the high-octane rides, circus performances and pony riding on offer. ÆÆIstarska ulica, Funtana (052 4456 327, dinopark.hr) Aqua Colours Croatia’s largest water park, the brilliant Aqua Colours in Poreč has 13 waterslides, two large pools, a half kilometre feature called Lazy River and an exhilarating wave machine that runs every half hour throughout the day. The complex is so big and offers so many things to do, it’s easy to spend the bulk of the day here, as many local families do. Outside of the splendid water- based activities here there’s also a children’s playground, beach volleyball and sports courts. Istralandia ÆÆMolindrio 10, Poreč (052 219 671, aquacolors.eu)

Time Out Istria 2019 70 71 2019 Time Out Istria Advertorial Advertorial

most requests and questions. being crowded. By the pool is a kids happy, while the family can for any romantic getaway – having Remember – My Istria is not a barbecue (with charcoal supplied) gather and watch a film together a world-famous observatory on booking website but a long-term and outside dining area for alfresco thanks to the DVD player. A your doorstep for star-gazing à venture set up by a small group evenings, there’s private parking dishwasher, washing machine and deux is the kind of fabulous extra MY ISTRIA of friends whose roots lie here, for two , three sun loungers child’s high chair will also come that only rural Istria can provide. whose business depends upon the and a high chair for the little one. in handy. All is enclosed to allow A few minutes’ drive from Višnjan, satisfaction of their guests. If it gets chilly later on, you can complete privacy. site of a public observatory where My Istria also offers a low-price gather round the fireplace with The location, 25km from more than 100 minor planets guarantee, a property manager a board game. The villa comes Pula Airport, couldn’t be more have been discovered, the Villa available 24/7 before and during with that all essential WiFi, plus a convenient, the pebble beaches Moro is a cosy idyll complemented Your kind of holiday your stay, and all-risk coverage dishwasher, washing machine and near Rovinj and Fažana no more by a pretty, carefully tended with Allianz, the world’s largest coffee maker. The nearest beach than a 20-minute drive. Once garden. There, two sun loungers insurance company, for any is 5km away, the award-winning you’re in Fažana, you can hop over await, or there’s natural shade property damage or holiday Aquapark Istralandia is under to the Brijuni Islands by taxi boat under the trees. cancellation. 10km and if you’re here in July, you to see real dinosaur footprints and Here, in this restored old stone That’s the details taken care of. can see top tennis stars in action at exotic creatures from India and hamlet, peace and tranquillity Now what about your holiday? the Croatian Open in Umag. Pets Africa. Pula, with its authentic are assured, meadows and woods are also welcome. Roman colosseum, has plenty to stretching out from this hilltop Family breaks If there are more of you or you’re offer for a day out, and you may location. At night, the two of you If you’re coming to Istria as a two families looking to combine even catch a major music act can curl up around the fireplace. family, one of the first things you a stay, the Villa Roveria might be playing the amphitheatre or the The bedroom has a , and need to consider is a pool. The kids just the place. Here you have two prestigious annual film festival. you can choose between a bathtub can splash about safely while the houses in one, offered as a single or shower, or even outdoor shower. adults can stretch out on the sun property for your use exclusively. Villa Kokola You can also keep in touch with lounger and dive in whenever the Sleeping ten altogether, one house ÆÆhttps://www.myistria.com/en/ the outside world thanks to broad- lilo’s free. Proximity to the sea is with three bedrooms, the other villas/in-umag/villa-kokola band WiFi. also handy – you’ll want to have the with two, the Villa Roveria has a You’ll find a handful of option of beach days as well. large indoor area to give everyone Villa Roveria restaurants in Višnjan or, under An excellent and affordable plenty of space, a private pool of ÆÆhttps://www.myistria.com/en/ 20km away, Poreč has more choice would be the Villa Kokola 50 square metres, a heated pool as villas/in-central-istria/villa-roveria eateries and beaches than you can near Umag, in Istria’s north- an added extra, ten sun loungers, shake a stick at. west. Sleeping 5+1 guests in two a garden and even a sauna. Romantic getaways Closer to the coast and with its bedrooms, it’s intimate without Broadband WiFi should keep the Privacy and intimacy are essentials own private pool, the Villa Vista WHAT BEGAN with one villa, fresh that day and a top-notch Of course, not all of the fun on hand-picked properties, all vetted, three friends and a property bottle of wine from the terroir on offer revolves the villa, but those verified and accurately presented owner in need of advice has which it was grown, and taking the seeking the thrills of an active on their website, My Istria has the developed into a business of 700- time to throw it all together while break might take advantage of villa to meet your holiday needs. plus luxury lodgings and more friends chat on the terrace. Open communal jacuzzi to soak away And if you’re not sure, ask. After than 40,000 guests a year. another bottle, you’re on holiday. tired muscles after a hard day’s more than ten years of working But some things never change. And, at the end of the meal, there’s cycling, hiking or windsurfing. directly with villa owners, the My Istria, the company created no need to worry about the bill. Now with more than 700 team at My Istria can deal with from a simple idea, retains its personal touch and local know- how. And Istria, home of these three friends, remains as rustic and relaxing as ever. The vineyards, the hilltop villages barely altered since the Venetians, the outstanding gastronomy and the easy distances between villa, coast and destination restaurants, Croatia’s best-kept secret is as authentic and welcoming as when the three founders of My Istria sat around a dining table in 2008. What’s different is the 50,000- plus annual holidaymakers looking for the perfect place to stay. And in choosing a private villa over a hotel, they have opted for independence, privacy, flexibility and diversity. Couples seek intimacy. A family might need full use of the pool and a plenty of space for the dog to run around. Others revel in cooking, spending the morning picking up seasonal Kokola Roveria produce at the local market, fish

Time Out Istria 2019 72 73 2019 Time Out Istria Advertorial sul Quarnero has that winning romantic element, a sea view. In fact, a sea view from the pool. You can even enjoy a sweeping vista of the Bay of Kvarner from the exercise treadmill available for your use. Here, 40km from Rijeka Airport, you’re literally sitting above the gastronomic hub of Volosko, a little fishing village now dotted with destination restaurants. A little further down the coast is , the grand dame of Croatian resorts, where you can dine where Habsburg high society did some 125 years ago. If you prefer to eat at home, there’s a barbecue, charcoal and an outdoor dining area set before that jaw-dropping sea view. There’s more sea-view and pool- Gabi side privacy at the Villa Gabi, less than 10km from the gastronomic destination of Rovinj. And here bakery and an ATM. can go windsurfing, diving or bathrooms, the villa also has the pool has its own jacuzzi sailing one day and horseback private parking but, given the corner, gazing out over a verdant Villa Moro riding, trekking or mountain- proximity of Barbariga and its landscape before a horizon of pure ÆÆhttps://www.myistria.com/en/ biking the next. many hidden bathing destinations, blue sky and sea. villas/in-porec/villa-moro You’ll also need a well-equipped you can even leave the car at home Inside, the villa has underfloor villa to come home to, somewhere and still enjoy a day out. heating and a fireplace, while the Villa Vista sul Quarnero with a jacuzzi or sauna, or both, to If you’re feeling a little more outdoor dining area comes with a ÆÆhttps://www.myistria.com/en/villas/ relax tired muscles. adventurous, then you’ll find a barbecue and charcoal. You also in-opatija/villa-vista-sul-quarnero A 20-minute drive from Pula German-run scuba diving centre have a choice of bedrooms, either Airport and a ten-minute walk at Polari, this side of Rovinj, downstairs as part of the open-plan Villa Gabi from the beaches and surfing spot under 10km away. Experienced living area, or upstairs with a more ÆÆhttps://www.myistria.com/en/ of Barbariga, the Villa Valencan divers can explore a number of striking view. villas/in-rovinj/villa-gabi has both an outdoor jacuzzi and shipwrecks, included the unique Pula Airport is under 30km away a sauna, as well as a private pool Baron Gautsch passenger steamer, while the nearest main town, Bale, Active holidays which can be heated on request. while beginners have a choice of is just 3km away and can provide For an active break, Istria’s Accommodating 6+2 guests five levels of courses. the basics of a supermarket, a compact size means that you with three bedrooms and three Also on Istria’s south-west coast but in Pula, walking distance from a marina and diving centre, a quick hop from the historic centre and a short drive to the major sports attractions of Medulin, the Villa Botanica allows you to relax in a communal, outdoor, stand-alone jacuzzi, a solar-heated private pool and Finnish sauna. If you’re still feeling competitive after your day’s exertions, you can man the games console or challenge your friends to a game of pool. An outdoor dining area with a barbecue allows you to cook alfres- co or the many restaurants around Veruda marina are a short stroll away. Here, boat rental is also pos- sible or you can charter your own yacht. The nearest diving centre – there are several – offers daytime and night-time exploration of caves, reefs and wrecks. There’s also a special course on underwa- ter photography. Greyhouse If you’re looking to spend most of your time in the sea, then

Time Out Istria 2019 74 Listings

Restaurants and shops can be found in the sizeable village of Svetvinčenat 3km away, dominated by Grimandi Castle. The nearest beach is in Rovinj 16km away, the nearest airport is Pula, 22km away. Leaving villas aside, the most unusual property in the whole My Istria portfolio is the Lighthouse Marlera. Built off the south-eastern tip of Istria in 1875, renovated and converted into a comfortable, three-bedroom lodging in 2012, the Lighthouse Marlera is remote yet well-connected, with Pula Airport only 10km away. A few steps away, however, is the sea, the crashing waves a constant reassuring backdrop. A giant, Folirantica shaded outdoor bed allows you to lie back and listen to the seagulls. Inside, you can warm up around the Villa Greyhouse in Ližnjan You’ll probably find yourselves Up to ten people can stay at the fireplace on chilly evenings. should cater to all your needs. spending plenty of time in the Villa Folirantica, half the There’s scuba diving, cycle hire Here, tucked in from the south- The Nest, a wooden pavilion population of the surrounding and surfing practically on your eastern promontory of the Istrian overlooking the pool equipped village of Foli. Here the local doorstep while a free boat service peninsula, you’re not only a five- with a large communal bed. In medieval nobility built this can take you across to the island of minute drive from the surfing and fact, with the sand-volleyball grandiose property in the 1600s. Levan, with its sandy beach and windsurfing spots on the Ližnjan court, basketball, badminton, Fortunately its current owner waterside bars. coast, but almost equidistant table tennis, mini football and is a world-renowned interior from Medulin and Premantura, dartboard, you need never designer, commissioned by Villa Birds House the main windsurf centres of the leave the 5,000 square-metre the likes of and Carlos ÆÆhttps://www.myistria.com/en/ region. Halfway between Ližnjan site, but ten bicycles are left for Santana. Private pool, underfloor villas/in-rovinj/villa-birds-house and Medulin, Samy’s Ranch guests’ disposal to ride down to heating, fireplace, rustic terrace, offers horse riding, quad biking the nearest sandy beach 1.5km indoor and outdoor dining areas Villa Folirantica and paintball. Back at the villa, away. The restaurants, shops and for ten, with air-conditioning ÆÆhttps://www.myistria.com/en/villas/ relax on the lounger around your historic attractions of Bale and throughout, all is a seamless and in-central-istria/villa-folirantica own private pool and soak up Rovinj are also less than 10km stylish marriage of medieval some rays on the expansive sun from the property. If you prefer to and contemporary. Thick stone Lighthouse Marlera terrace. cook at home, there’s a barbecue, walls ensure privacy – as the ÆÆhttps://www.myistria.com/en/ charcoal and spacious dining areas counts of yesteryear would have villas/in-pula/lighthouse-marlera Villa Valencan indoor and out. appreciated. myistria.com ÆÆhttps://www.myistria.com/en/ villas/in-rovinj/villa-valencan Villa Botanica ÆÆhttps://www.myistria.com/en/ villas/in-pula/villa-botanica Villa Greyhouse ÆÆhttps://www.myistria.com/en/ villas/in-pula/villa-greyhouse Unique stays If the stay itself is the focus of your getaway, then My Istria has a whole range of unique villas. Nature lovers can kick back in the surrounds of an ornithological reserve at the Villa Birds House, an eco lodging of three bedrooms sleeping 5+3, three bathrooms, Istria by private pool, luxuriant garden and parking for eight cars. And, of course, all that birdsong. Indoor heating is provided with a wood- Lighthouse Marlera fired oven. destination Time Out Istria 2019 76 77 2019 Time Out Istria Pula Top 30 Pula Top 30 Istria’s historic main city of Pula is symbolised by its Roman amphitheatre, scene of a surprisingly wide range of outdoor events every summer.

Hit the water at Medulin 4 The main destination in Istria for watersports, Medulin ISTRIA’S HISTORIC main city of spreads out around a twisting Pula is symbolised by its Roman promontory a short drive (or bus amphitheatre, scene of a surpris- ride) south-west of Pula. Dotted ingly wide range of outdoor events with campsites and resort hotels, every summer. Roman remains Medulin offers all kinds of activi- also form Pula’s city centre, ties on and, to a lesser extent, off dominated by a hilltop Venetian the water. You can charter a boat fortress. With docks rather than or learn how to sail, dive with vary- beaches nearby, many head south ing degrees of difficulty, windsurf, for out-of-town seaside fun in Ver- Pula Colosseum surf, waterski, jetski or just jump on udela and Medulin. an inflatable banana boat. Explore Croatia’s Colosseum 1 It doesn’t require much imagination to conjure up the gladiatorial battles that would have taken place in Pula’s Amphitheatre 2,000 years ago. In fact, you can even stand in the tunnels and corridors where warriors and lions were kept before entertaining crowds of up to 25,000. Built family built a triumphal arch Go wild at Outlook over the course of a century, the to themselves in Pula. The The Croatian offshoot of Amphitheatre was given its final Arch of the Sergii remains the 3 Leeds festival SubDub, touches in AD81 by the Emperor main gateway into what is now September’s Outlook is a four-day , also responsible for the Pula’s historic centre, virtually celebration of soundsystem culture Colosseum in Rome. Today Pula’s intact after more than 2,000 that takes place at two stand-out is more intact, boasting a near years. Today’s pedestrians locations around Pula. After the complete ring of walls. It is also walk below its portal to access opening night at the Amphitheatre, in regular use, staging the Film ulica Sergijevaca, somewhat the action moves to the main site at Festival, the opening night of incongruously passing a branch the abandoned fort of Punta Chris- electronic music bash Outlook and of Spanish clothing chain Mango. to. Tunnels, moats and beaches big-name concerts. Closer inspection of the historic all come into play as leading expo- landmark reveals details relating nents of dubstep, ragga, garage and Enter Pula in triumph to the events of 31BC, the names reggae make best use of the isolated Having helped win of the Sergii clan inscribed location. Three-hour boat parties 2 the Battle of Actium in Arch of the Sergii on the columns, and a chariot set off at regular intervals. Outlook Festival 31BC, the high-ranking Sergii on the frieze. ÆÆoutlookfestival.com

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Today the site is an archaeological park, with remains of the walls built by the tribe and the Romans, of a necropolis and the private villas where the better-off lived 2,000 years ago. ÆÆMuntić (ami-pula.hr) Follow a Mediterranean 15 diet Tucked away amid a scattering of holiday homes some 2km from the sea, Farabuto takes some finding – but local taxi drivers are pretty familiar with it by now. The reason is seasonal – here, the menu changes according to the time of year. The team at Farabuto rely on small-batch local producers to supply meat, cheese and Pula, market vegetables, the fish landed close by and within a relatively short time of it being treated to Belci or Šlajner family-run concern is the kind of Market was unveiled before city Discover Istria’s olive oil. This is the place to try the place that allows you to indulge in dignitaries on 18 October 1903. oldest urban famed langoustines from Kvarner one holiday splash-out. Shellfish Around the impressive creation 14 settlement Bay or, a rarity in these parts, goat is the way to go here, and most of metal and glass, they planted Past Pula Airport, some 10km – according to season, of course. dishes involve the own-made olive rows of chestnut trees to provide north-east of town, was ÆÆSisplac ulica 15 (052 386 074, farabuto.hr) oil produced within close range shade, where outdoor stalls were the main settlement of the original Restaurant Milan of the restaurant. Much like the also set up. A complete six-month Histri tribe who would give the Investigate menu, the wine list is extensive rebuild in 1997 remained true region its name. When the Romans contemporary art and focused on Istrian produce. to the original while improving laid siege to the town, legend 16 Located in this adapted Sample classic Istrian with New York, a women’s prison See how locals a small array of samples might be Milan is also a three-star hotel, so conditions of storage, refrigeration has it that its leader, Epulon, and space of a former printing works dishes in 21st-century and motherhood as their themes. lived under Tito the way to start any visit. if you’re making a night of it, you and ventilation. Traders still fill local families killed themselves since 2011, the Museum of 5 surroundings Displays are not limited to photo- 8 Opened in 2018, the Memo ÆÆForum 11 (099 323 6541, can even stay over. two floors with meat, fish and rather than be taken prisoner. The Contemporary Art of Istria has Recently opened Epulon Food & graphic paper – video works are Museum is not a collection of stefanija.com/hr/enoteka) ÆÆStoja 4 (052 300 200, milan1967.hr) sundry local produce, while Romans duly destroyed what was been staging regular exhibitions Wine sits by Pula’s historic centre also included, such as Nothing New notes but rather memories – fresh fruit, vegetables, honeys, left of original Nesactium and while working on setting up a but this contemporary eatery is Under The Sun by award-winning memories of how locals lived Catch an Party at wines and oils can be found they created a new town on its site, more permanent home within the anything but staid. Smooth light Austrian Michael Goldgruber in here from the 1950s to the 1980s. affordable lunch Saccorgiana Bay outside under the ever-present with a forum, baths and temples. Venetian fortress. The latest date wood and bare brick typify this 2017. For the autumn of 2018, Divided into three sections, a 10 at Hook and Cook 12 Open until 2am and chestnut trees. After the fall of the Roman Empire, for relocation is 2020. In similar open-plan, high-ceilinged estab- Aleks Đakovski’s Prolaznik (‘Passer- street, a city square and a flat, Istrian street food may be one way 4am all weekend, the summer- ÆÆNarodni trg 9 (052 218 122, trznica-pula.hr) Nesactium later fell into disrepair. vein, the museum, known by its lishment, offset by industrial-style by’) attracted the cream of Pula’s it displays items such as a Fico to describe Hook and Cook Pula, only Zeppelin Beach Bar attracts lighting. Istrian tapas may be one cultural scene to its opening night. car, black-and-white televisions, a convivial newbie right on the regular revellers from Pula way to describe the menu, although ÆÆKapitolinski trg 1 (092 306 7619) rollerskates and old-school city’s main drag of Sergijevaca. As to a stretch of beach right in you may also find regional favour- computers. The museum operates well as piscine renditions of quick- Saccorgiana Bay. A music policy of ites such as fuži pasta with truffles, Sip coffee at Cvajner from March to November and lunch favourites – tunasaurus, electronica-only usually involves seafood spaghetti and the like. With a prime location on is open by prior appointment prawntilla, tuna steak burger house or dubstep, though the Portions are generous, particularly 7 the focal Roman forum, ([email protected]) – H&C offers marende, cheap ZBB can also be patronised by where burgers are concerned. Of Cvajner does justice to its during the winter. lunches as once found all along the day, when you can find a table the many Istrian wines, Tomaz surroundings, filling a former ÆÆScalierova 4 (099 827 7280, Croatian littoral. For under 40kn, and welcome shade under the from Motovun is the most promi- bank with tastefully arranged memo-museum.com) you may be served sardines, tuna trees. Cocktails are the way to go nent, rosé, malvazija and teran. retro furniture, objets d’art and salad or brodet, best accompanied here, all reasonably affordable Occasional live music augments bohemian finds. Its alternative Sample local wines by a glass of equally affordable so you’ll have enough for the taxi your pleasant dining experience. name is the Kunstcafe. But there’s at Enoteca Istriana house red. The chips are also back into town. ÆÆEpulonova 4 (098 949 9023, more to Cvajner than wacky design 9 With 14 choices of malvasia excellent – with a portion of fried ÆÆZlatne stijene, Uvala Saccorgiana, facebook.com/epulonfoodwine) beneath high ceilings. Offering alone, the Enoteca Istriana on the calamari, your basic but delicious Verudela (091 654 5117, facebook. the best coffee in town, Cvajner Forum is Pula’s go-to venue for meal is complete. com/pg/ZeppelinBeachBar) Admire photography also has the best selection of beers, regional wines. Sommelier Alena ÆÆSergijevaca 18 at Galerija Makina from Belgium, Germany and Stuparić has selected the red Teran Browse Pula 6 Calling itself ‘an exhibition beyond, and cooling fruit cocktails range – from Marko Geržinić, Fine dine at Milan Market space for contemporary photog- in summer. Throw in a shaded Gianfranco Kozlović and Franc In a secluded spot by 13 Unlike the main raphy’, the evening-only Galerija terrace beside the Renaissance Arman – with equal care and atten- 11 the naval cemetery markets in major Croatian cities Makina near the Pula waterfront City Hall and 2,000-year-old tion. Both an outlet and a bar, the outside of the city centre, Milan such as Split and Dubrovik, Pula’s offers a regularly changing calendar Temple of , and you Enoteca is also the place to taste has been the gold standard for is housed in a historic building of challenging art. Run by Has- several compelling reasons to the famed Istrian prosciutto and quality dining in Pula over many with a distinctive architectural san Abdelghani, a photographer start, or end, the day here. olives. Knowledgeable staff are on years. Reassuringly pricy but style. Constructed out of wrought Museum of Contemporary Art of Istria himself, the gallery staged shows ÆÆForum 2 hand to guide the uninitiated, and by no means extortionate, this iron by the Habsburgs, Pula

Time Out Istria 2019 80 81 2019 Time Out Istria intact, and considered one of the packed to the gills for the World finest of its kind outside Italy. Cup in 2018. Supported by elegant Corinthian ÆÆSvetog Teodora 1 (097 792 columns, it beckons to be explored 6024, theshipyardpub.hr) but its later uses, once as a granary, have cleared its interior of much See how Romans historic detail. What you see is fought, dressed a lapidarium, with a display of 21 and groomed Roman sculpture – but the thrill Running weekly over the whole of being inside such as stately summer except during the Pula Film landmark built for and during the Festival, Spectacvla Antiqva uses time of Augustus should satisfy Pula’s venerable amphitheatre to most curious visitors. bring Roman history and civilisa- tion to life, and use it as the back- Do your drinking drop for gladiator fights with real at the docks weapons, workshops and displays of 20 Facing the ACI ancient clothing and hairstyles, all Marina, the recently opened with narrative explanation. Admis- Shipyard Pub is helping bring sion is 80kn, 40kn for children. to life Pula’s rather moribund waterfront, staging regular Discover the parties, live music and DJs in a secrets of the stylish, tastefully post-industrial 22 Mediterranean diet setting. Celebrating the history The Ancient Romans processed of the Uljanik shipyard through olive oil in Pula and here, at the a chronological photographic House of Istrian Olive Oil near the exhibition, this popular Arena, you can see how this was pub allows students, young done 2,000 years ago. Compared professionals and everyday with production today, the only locals to mingle around a long bar difference is in the technology Boccaporta counter or outside in summer. – the tastes, aromas, chemical It’s a huge space – but was compositions and health benefits Croatian acronym of MSUI, has Enjoy Istrian RIGHT NEAR, a somewhat flexible structure, family hospitality broken down into four main areas. 18 In the homely sur- These include Designs & Posters, roundings of the Konoba Boc- and Photography, Film & Video, caporta, the motto in the local as well as Contemporary Art and vernacular is Lipa besida dopire Foreign Art. Temporary shows saka vrata – ‘A nice word opens RIGHT NOW. tend to focus on Istrian artists, the door’. Braised on hot coals, though there’s always room for boškarin beef and octopus are deli- works from elsewhere in the ciously succulent and served with region, such as the sculptures of seasonal vegetables, all the kind Bosnia’s Alem Korkut, by way of of quality you might find at dining You’re only seconds away recent example. establishments that can and do ÆÆSv Ivana 1 (052 351 541, msu-istre.hr) charge more. Despite the rustic set- from a great bar, an amazing ting, Boccaparta only dates back to new restaurant or the latest Scale Pula Fortress 2014, Toni Draguzet and his family When the Venetians setting the tone with a roaring fire- things to do in Istria. 17 wanted a defensive place and wooden beams. It’s all fortress built here, they turned to a fair stroll south-east of town but French military architect Antoine worth the taxi journey. de Ville. Best known for his star- ÆÆDolinka 18 (052 506 266, shaped citadel at Montreuil in the konoba-boccaporta.com) DOWNLOAD Pas-de-Calais, de Ville created a similar construction for Pula. On Visit a Roman THE APP TODAY the lofty site where the ancient temple tribe of Histri built their fort, 19 Pula’s Roman Forum the four-pointed fortress now was once fringed by three temples. GET IT ON protected Pula’s port. Today it While it remains the main square provides fine views of the historic of the city’s historic centre, car- centre to one side and the cranes of free and dotted with café terraces, the nearby shipyard to the other. the Forum now only has one: the Sadly, you won’t be able to see Temple of Augustus. Standing much of the Roman theatre that next to the City Hall, which ate once stood below – its stones were up part of the Temple of Juno, the Temple of Augustus put to good use here in the 1630s. Temple of Augustus is remarkably ISTRIA Time Out Istria 2019 82 fascinating trove of , videos and maps, and given the patchwork past of this port, ruled by Habsburgs, Italians and Socialists in less than 50 years, this makes for a very worthwhile visit indeed. ÆÆGradinski uspon 6 (052 211 566, ppmi.hr) Explore Brijuni The Brijuni 27 archipelago lies off Istria’s west coast, a 15-minute boat journey from Fažana, just north of Pula. Most of the 14 islands are off limits to the public. Luckily, there is so much to see on the other two that you’re unlikely to feel hard done by. Veliki Brijuni is the largest and contains the vast majority of local treasures. Beautiful and vaguely surreal – English country estate meets Jurassic Park – it consists of hectares of well-maintained, green parkland surrounded by the dazzling Adriatic and planted with avenues of prehistoric-looking Lighting Giants pines. This is where you’ll find a golf course, bird sanctuary, botani- cal gardens, zoo and safari park, The archipelago and world and emphasise the need for Pula and the sea, and now displays Days of Antiquity - Pula Superi- three museums and the main surrounding waters were its protection. Set up in historic a massive steel dome, the final orvm festival transforms Pula into archaeological sites. A map of the proclaimed a national park in Verudela fortress, it is home to stage of a reconstruction project to Ancient Rome, with islands is posted at its harbour – 1983, served by a frequent shuttle some 200 species. Sharks, jellyfish incorporate three new huge tanks. in the Arena, attractive women including details of where to find boat from Pula 6km away. and seahorses are the most sought- ÆÆVerudela (052 381 402, aquarium.hr) wandering around the Forum in Shipyard Pub the dinosaur footprints that dot ÆÆnp-brijuni.hr after attractions, along with the Roman dresses and hairstyles, and the shoreline. Marine Turtle Rescue Centre, the Indulge in a indulgent gastronomy, all back- Brijuni had to wait until 1893 See Roman Pula aquarium’s biggest contribution to Roman feast dropped by imaginative displays of remain pretty much the same, as a Take in art at a its cranes. A sophisticated remote before it was rescued by Austrian in virtual reality marine conservation. The roof of 30 Running over four sound and light. visit here will reveal. Find out from sacred site control system governs the lighting steel magnate Paul Kupelwieser. He 28 As a new feature, a the fort offers magnificent views of Saturdays from May 25, the annual ÆÆpulasuperiorum.com an expert as they show you how to 24 On Kaštel, the hill and scenography, and involves excavated Roman treasures, built walking tour has been devised for recognise top-quality extra virgin dominating Pula, stands the newly some 16,000 different color villas, planted trees, landscaped you to experience how Pula would olive oil, an Istrian speciality. renovated Museum and Gallery combinations. gardens, built the first 18-hole have looked like 2,000 years ago. Leading brands are available in the Sveta Srca, named after the Holy This spectacular show and light- golf course in continental Europe Equipped with VR glasses and a museum shop, along with truffles, Order who built this church of ing display runs every evening and even established a zoo. Kupel- digital map, you stroll through the lavender and Mediterranean plant- the same name in 1908. Closed from dusk until 10pm, and until wieser had, in fact, created his own old city centre, stopping at seven based cosmetics. after World War II, the church midnight in summer, with differ- Xanadu – but he died in 1918. viewpoints to don your VR glasses ÆÆUlica sv Teodora 1A (052 661 was eventually taken over by the ent combinations for special occa- Brijuni later passed into the and immerse yourself into the 235, oleumhistriae.com) Archaeological Museum of Istria. sions, holidays and events. hands of Mussolini’s Italy. After visual and auditory experience Its long renovation eventually ÆÆyoutube.com/ World War II the Brijuni archi- of Roman Pula. Points include Admire art and provided Pula with one of Croatia’s watch?v=3dEWGo8UwfU&app=desktop pelago, along with the rest of Istria, the Triumphal Arch of the Sergi, party in a war- most spectacular and prestigious became part of Tito’s Yugoslavia. the Forum and the Arena. VR 23 time shelter exhibition spaces for high-profile, Walk through The Yugoslav leader used Brijuni tours come with a specialised Pula’s latest and perhaps most temporary shows. The stunning history in a as his base, conducting diplomacy guide (360kn), or self-guided unique attraction is so-called light-filled interior plays host to 26 hilltop citadel with the Non-Aligned Movement (190kn) versions are available. Zerostrasse, accessed at Carrarina a rich menu of special-interest At the highest point in Pula, the and inviting the world’s rich and Tours run from May to October, Nos.1 and 3. A series of tunnels history exhibitions, contemporary Historical & Maritime Museum of famous to his idyllic playground. booked through the website or built to protect Pula citizens during art installations and other Istria has occupied this adapted As you step onto Veliki Brijuni’s from the Dolija Olive Oil shop at air raids – originally for World War cultural events. Venetian fortification since 1955. quayside you are following in the Narodni trg 3. I but also for World War II – these ÆÆSv Ivana 1 (ami-pula.hr) Several departments – Pula, footsteps of Haile Selassie, Queen ÆÆvirtualrealitycroatia.com passageways are some three to medieval and modern Istria and Elizabeth II, JFK, Sophia Loren six metres wide and 2.5 metres See how cranes maritime – do a comprehensive – anyone who was anyone in the Meet sharks, high. If you’re visiting in summer, light up a whole job of explaining local and regional 1960s. You can see them docu- jellyfish and you might enjoy the cool – the 25 shipyard development. What makes this mented in the ‘Josip Broz Tito On 29 seahorses temperature never rises above Lighting Giants is the unique institution stand out is its niche Brijuni’ exhibition. Pula Aquarium is the most 20oC. Today a part of the tunnel work of creative designer Dean collections, of old photographs, A tourist train pootles around popular of its kind in Croatia, is used for exhibitions, cultural Skira, who brings Pula’s Uljanik coins, insignia and uniforms, the main island for you to see most dedicated to showing the beauty Brijuni gatherings and parties. Shipyard to life by illuminating among other things. With a of the attractions at one go. and diversity of the underwater

Time Out Istria 2019 84 85 2019 Time Out Istria Pula

A couple of kilometres further – only try this if you know what stick to popular bathing spots such BEACHES south is Verudela, a headland you’re doing. as Stupice near the campsite of the focused on holiday pleasure, dot- On the same side of the headland same name, with its tennis and With the main shipyard in opera- ted with hotels and surrounded as Stoja, as you come into Verudela, volleyball courts, and windsurfing tion here since the mid-1800s, the by shingle or smooth-stone Ambrela beach is sandy, the sea centre. Convivial Debeljak Bay also waterfront in the city centre has beaches. Popular ones such as clear, with changing cabins and attracts bathers, with a beach bar long since been given over to indus- Histria offer plenty of shade, showers alongside. Again, loung- close by. try, but there are plenty of beaches with loungers and umbrellas to ers, umbrellas and basic beach Dotted around the far southern a short bus journey from town. rent. Climbing inflatables in the amenities such as pedalos can be tip are swimming spots of varying The main ones are all due south. water should keep the kids busy rented – and, like Histria, Ambrela degrees of comfort and safety, The nearest ones at Stoja and Lun- and there’s an aquarium at the has been awarded a Blue Flag. usually with makeshift alongside. gomare are fine for a paddle – most nearby fortress. On the other side Pula is the gateway to Premantu- Across from the east coast of notably Valkane in Zelenika Bay, of the fortress, near the Park Plaza ra and Cape Kamenjak, where Istria Premantura, Medulin has been with tennis courts nearby. Part of Arena hotel, Hawaii beach, aka runs out of land at its far southern built around holiday fun, with the the seafront here is sandy, ideal for Havajsko, comprises pebbles that tip, some ten to 15 kilometres from sandy beach at Pješčana Bay a family children and also adapted for disa- slope ever so gently down into the town. The sea surrounding this jag- favourite. Windsurfing, SUP and div- bled visitors. The next bay along, water, ideal for smaller children ged coastline of some 30 kilome- ing can all be found nearby. Medulin Gortanova, near the Hotel Pula, a little nervous about going in. As tres is crystal clear but can be rough is a 15- to 20-minute drive from Pula also has easy access to the sea, with if by contrast, locals use the cliffs the further south you go. Less with scores of hotels and campsites pine trees close at hand for shade. alongside to jump off into the sea experienced swimmers should should you wish to stay over.

BOCA Bar

BEST OF THE REST Kod Kadre Wednesdays in winter. or you could opt for something On a quiet street behind the Pula ÆÆPomer 331 (095 395 0914, more local and order up a platter BOCA Bar Arena a short walk away, Kod konoba-istriana.com) of scampi, mussels and blitva. The Upscale snacks and drinks are Kadre serves massive, but massive, salads are generally excellent and, the main attraction here, inven- portions of classic Balkan meat Old City Bar given the rows of tables catch- tive bruschettas, fine wines and dishes, with all the trimmings. This pub-like drinking destina- ing the sun in outside, the Piazza gin-based cocktails with high-end Prices are fractionally higher tion is where to come to watch Nove is more suitable for lunch base spirits. Halfway between the than you’d pay at a completely the match, two big screens set up after a morning of traipsing round Venetian citadel and the marina, rock-bottom local corner grill, but around the long bar counter lined the Pula Arena and waterfront. you’re also in historic part of Pula, you’re also getting a little extra with tall stools for pint drinkers. ÆÆKapitolinski trg 9 (092 374 5535, lending a little atmosphere as you quality in terms of salads, ajvar and There’s a kitchen, too, burgers, business.facebook.com/piazza.nove.pula) sip your Aperol spritz and nibble comfort. The menu is also a little ćevapi and grilled fish enjoyed on a truffle tapa. more extensive, with schnitzel and inside and out, a terrace of red- Restaurant Oasi ÆÆKandlerova 34 (052 382 390) mixed grill options. Come with checked tabletops either covered Attached to the four-star an appetite. or catching the sun, as you wish. boutique hotel of the same name Helicon Vintage Bar ÆÆTeslina 51 (052 213 770, At the foot of the Venetian cita- with spa and outdoor pool, the This is a great in-the-know kind of facebook.com/Kod.Kadre) del, it’s all a short walk from the Oasi is unsurprisingly classy, bar, where local regulars mingle marina and most of the Roman the kind of place that makes it with tourists, with a nice buzz Konoba Istriana sights. Even in winter, it’s almost worth the taxi journey from town about the place, particularly Way down in the watersports hub a 24-hour operation, opening for if you’re not staying down here if there’s been a happy hour of Pomer, the Konoba Istriana (very) early morning coffee and by the marina. Cream of shrimp thrown into the mix. DJs play knows how to handle boškarin closing way past midnight. soup is embellished with fresh to all-comers in high season, ox, scampi and, perhaps the ÆÆDanteov trg 1 (052 222 944, black truffles, that’s home-made while autumn and winter lend key to why diners come down facebook.com/oldcity.pula) gnocchi with the beef ragout themselves to themed nights, here from Pula, a peka lid. Suc- and Grana Padano cheese, the retro Yugo, that kind of thing. culent seafood and meat dishes Piazza Nove swordfish is marinated in olive Decor is little but bare brick and are slow-cooked in hot coals, Opened just in time to catch the oil and herbs while the fillet of sea a little original art – just goes an option you’ll need to order a season in July 2018, Piazza Nove bass comes in a sauce of sparkling to show what you can do with day in advance. Whatever can be does the simple things right, wine. This is also one of the best the right crowd. Drinks help, home-made, is, such as the pasta, and its location by the Temple of spots in Pula for steak. Prices are of course, craft Croatian beers, while the prosciutto and vegeta- Augustus in the heart of historic very reasonable for the quality draught Paulaner and cocktails bles are sourced from close to Pula keeps the punters coming in. of fare, presentation and service, served in jar-shaped glasses. home. Amalija and Milan Kerniat Hulking great burgers are served while the enclosed garden terrace ÆÆSmareglina 2 (095 764 4663, keep a cosy spot, operating year- with fresh accompaniments and lends a little intimacy. facebook.com/HeliconVintageBar) round, closed lunchtimes and a bowl of tasty, hand-cut chips, ÆÆPjescana uvala X-12A (052 397 910, oasi.hr)

Time Out Istria 2019 86 87 2019 Time Out Istria Advertorial Advertorial

In 2018, the festival added another site to its roster: nearby Zerostrasse. Accessed along Carrarina, this series of tunnels was built to protect Pula citizens during air raids, originally for World War I but also for World War II. Reno- vated and reopened, they now provide a unique, A cultural atmospheric space for exhibitions, cultural gatherings and parties. Heading down Carrarina towards the sea will position you near two of the city’s museums, the Olive Oil Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art of Istria. tour of Pula Further down Carrarina the other way is the heart of historic Pula, where the Gate of Festivals of film and electronic music, and concerts by everyone Hercules, the Small Roman Theatre, Twin Gates from to José Carreras, fill the 2,000-year-old arena, with and the Triumphal Arch of the Sergii are all in its near intact walled ring. Roman remains also form Pula’s city fantastic condition. Rising up behind the Small Roman Theatre, centre, dominated by a hilltop Venetian fortress. the hill that once housed the prehistoric hill fort settlement is the Kaštel. It was later fortified by the Venetians, and now is where you’ll find key cultural institutions such as the THE BEAUTY of Pula is that it packs in 3,000 Arena is still very much part of Pula’s cultural Historical & Maritime Museum of Istria, where years of history and sights, from classic Roman landscape. All summer long the biggest names photographs, maps and videos throw light on to cutting-edge contemporary, within a space in popular music – , Elton Pula’s patchwork past. Also here, on one side of under one square kilometre. It can be John, David Gilmour (Pink Floyd), Massive of the hill, is the Museum and Gallery Sacred explored in an hour or two. Or, when there’s a Attack, Grace Jones, Sting – perform within its Hearts (Sveta Srca), a stunning and prestigious festival taking place, a whole day which may near intact walled ring. Since 1954, the Pula exhibition space set up in a century-old church. well run late into the evening. Film Festival has been held here. In fact, the Underneath the Kaštel hill, the original The most iconic starting point is, of course, Arena forms part of its logo, the venue now Roman forum is overshadowed by the Temple the Amphitheatre, known as the Arena. It was synonymous with an event that once attracted of Augustus, which was built around 2 BC, the built in the 1st century AD during the reign of the likes of Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor. same time as the first wooden arena was built on Emperor , at the same time as the In more recent times, the Arena has also hosted the site at which the Amphitheatre stands today. magnificent Colosseum in Rome. But while the the opening night of the Outlook and Dimensions Here, you’re a few paces from the Communal Colosseum in Rome all too rarely hosts concerts festivals offer world-renowned acts from the gen- Pula Colosseum Palace, which dates from the 13th century (and when it does, they’re located outside), the res of dubstep, techno, hip hop and drum ‘n’ bass. and is today used as the town hall or, further around the Forum, The Punishment of Dirce, an incredibly well preserved but violent floor mosaic which was uncovered following bombing of the city in World War II. Also close is the Uljanik Shipyard, opened by Habsburg Empress Elisabeth, wife of Franz Josef, in 1856. Ships are still being built here today, but in more recent years the dockyard gained an extra dimension when Croatian lighting designer Dean Skira transformed the cranes into a bright, multi-coloured spectacle. Controlled by a sophisticated remote control system, Lighting Giants flashes out some 16,000 colour combinations every evening from dusk until 10pm, and even until midnight in summer. As well as bringing this historic facility into the 21st century, Lighting Giants has helped to popularise the Visualia Festival, the first of its kind in Croatia. In 2019 it cele- brates its seventh year. Running over three days in September, Visualia brings international 3D and lighting artists, showcasing the very latest audiovisual technology. Bringing history full circle, and spanning 3,000 years of human achievement in Pula, as part of the Visualia Festival in 2015, a record number of people participated in creating a Light Postcard within the Roman Arena. More than 4,000 visitors came together to form the world’s largest human torchlit image, Galerija Makina Museum of Contemporary Art of Istria spelling out the words ‘Pula + Istria’ in the city’s signature colours of green and yellow.

Time Out Istria 2019 88 89 2019 Time Out Istria Fažana Top 10 This attractive fishing village offers more than just a launchpad to Brijuni islands.

CLOSE TO PULA, the fishing World War I. At a depth of some 36 settlement of Fažana is usually metres, it lies close to Stoja beach, visited as it’s the jumping-off its stern open, allowing divers to point for boats to the Brijuni peek in and see what’s left of the Islands, a national park and military equipment a century later. historical curiosity. Spend time Other nearby wrecks include an here on the mainland, though, Italian minesweeper, a Yugoslav and you’ll find a few decent tugboat and Italian ship restaurants – Fažana is also that sank in 1915. Hippocampus known for its sardines, there’s also offers scuba-diving even a festival dedicated to them courses for adults and children, every August – and a scattering of minimum age ten. sights and beaches. ÆÆAutocamp BiVillage, 115 (099 400 6922, hippocampus.hr) Sample Fažana sardines at the Visit a church from 1 Konoba Batana the sixth century Where better to sample Fažana’s 3 A few hundred metres from famed sardines than here at the the modest centre of Fažana stands Konoba Batana, named after the Sv Elizeja, a simple church the size flat-bottomed boats fishermen and shape of a small house. There’s Past the pines, you are treated to out a sun loungers, sunshades and Savour seafood at lavender, alkali grass, sea aster – and other exotic creatures that still take out to sea. You’re also little by way of decoration – in fact, fine views of the Brijuni Islands just order cold beers at your leisure. Konoba Feral makes it attractive to all kinds of formed a safari park here. Some can BEACHES right on the waterfront, close to there’s little by way of any glass offshore. The entire 11-kilometre 7 Echoing Fažana’s fishing birds and insects. Dragonflies, still be seen, if you hop aboard the the taxi boat for Brijuni. Sardines at all – although early Christian journey is on asphalt or tarmac, Pay your respects heritage, the red-fronted Konoba coots, egrets, kingfishers and little tourist train that chugs round Fažana is a resort in its own right. can be enjoyed as a cold starter, symbols and graves have been and should take you an hour – ideal to Mate Parlov Feral just in from the seafront has herons are fairly common sights. the island. Have a look out, too, for Close to the jetty for taxi boats as part of the fisherman’s salad, found alongside. Like the church before you finish back at the car 6 On a patch of greenery as wide a choice of fish and seafood At night, bats fill the skies, enjoying the Roman remains and authentic to Brijuni, Stara (‘Old’) Fažana integral to the fish platter for itself, they dated back some 1,500 park and hop onto your boat for tucked in from the Fažana seafront, as you’ll find anywhere on this the rich pickings of insects. Ask for dinosaur footprints, when Brijini beach offers the simple pleasures two or, quite simply, grilled with years, shortly after the Romans Brijuni. Ask at the nearby Fažana a bronze statue of a boxer in action part of the Istrian coast. Lobster, further details about what to see, really was an animal kingdom. All of a concrete boardwalk, pebble- divine olive oil, sprinkled with left Croatia. Sv Elizeja is still in use Tourist Office (ulica Titova Riva 2, is complemented by two simple Jacob’s mussels, shrimp buzara- and which times of the year, at the is explained on the map you’ll see covered waterfront, something lemon and served ten to a plate. today – a concert takes place here infofazana.hr) about cycle hire. words below the plinth: Mate style, scorpion fish, all kinds of Fažana Tourist Office (ulica Titova as you disembark onto the island. for kids to bounce around on, and There are plenty of other options, on World Music Day in June. ÆÆistria-bike.com Parlov. No mention of Parlov’s white fish and, of course, sardines Riva 2, infofazana.hr) by the jetty. ÆÆbrijuni.hr loungers to hire. of course, such as white fish with Put svetog Elizeja Olympic gold at Munich in 1972, – all go well with the affordable You can then stroll due south blitva greens and classic Balkan Frolic on the beach no mention of his world and house wine and can be enjoyed in Discover Brijuni Drink and dine along the whole seafront, first carnivorous favourite pljeskavica, Cycle the St Fažana is lined with beaches. European amateur title wins, the traditional interior or on the There’s nothing quite like surrounded calling at San Lorenzo with a a hulking meat patty with ajvar Elyseus route 5 From the simple purity of no mention of his achievements Roman-style terrace alongside. 9 Brijuni. One of Croatia’s 10 by greenery couple of bars close by, then to accompany. 4 Taking its name from the Stara (‘Old’) Fažana in the north to as a boxing coach when he led There are Istrian specialities, too, most popular attractions, it’s The Arboretum Pub is just that – a keep going all the way towards ÆÆTrg stare škola 17 (098 912 sixth-century church you’ll be the main public beach with tiki- Yugoslavia to their best results at pršut ham, sausage, ombolo pork accessed by regular taxi boat from pub where you can sample the Valbandon. 7212, batana-fazana.eu) passing on the way, the St Elyseus style sunshades, to San Lorenzo an Olympic Games, in 1984. But loin and manestra soup. If you’re Fažana. This takes you to Veliki latest Croatian craft beer and sink Past a sea-kayak and boat rental route is ideal for first-time visitors with its popular seafront bar, a then again, many older Croats going to have one meal in Fažana, (‘Great’) Brijun, the only one of your teeth into a burger, surround- spot by La Pineta restaurant, you Explore a World War I who would like to see what Fažana stroll along the waterfront all the know these things anyway – the this would be a wise choice. the 14 islands in the archipelago ed by greenery cultivated for edu- reach the BiVillage Holiday Centre. German submarine has to offer but aren’t looking for way to Valbandon brings you to Split-born pugilist was eight times ÆÆBoraca 11 (052 520 040, catering to tourists. Brijuni made cational or scientific interest. Giv- Part of this all-in-one complex of 2 Fažana’s main diving too much of a challenge when the BiVillage Holiday Centre. champion of Yugoslavia. In his restaurant-feral.com) its name when post-war leader of ing new meaning to the concept of pools, adventure park, and resort centre, Hippocampus takes divers they take to the saddle. Starting at Part of this all-in-one complex of later years, Parlov retired to run Yugoslavia, Tito, made it his base a beer garden, the Arboretum Pub lodgings, is the Beach BiVillage, of varying abilities to several Fažana car park near the jetty, the pools, an adventure park, villas, a bar in Pula and spend time out Admire the wildlife at certain times of the year, invit- puts on events such as beer yoga, kept pristine for holidaymakers. interesting wrecks within easy trail runs along the riviera, heads apartments and a campsite, is the of the limelight here in Fažana, of Valbandon ing film stars and leaders of other jazz weeks and screenings of major A little further along, the Sunset reach of this part of the coast. Close down to the BiVillage Holiday Beach BiVillage, kept pristine for taking in the sunset here on the 8 Just south of Fažana, the countries not aligned to the USA or football tournaments. Eminently Beach Bar Valbandon is where to Pula, the so-called Submarine Centre at Valbandon, cuts up past holidaymakers. A little further waterfront, the rays now catching Valbandon estuary is where USSR. This, in turn, led to the heads child- and dog-friendly. you can rent out a sun loungers, 82 was sunk by the Germans vineyards and olive groves, then along, the Sunset Beach Bar his statue at the most photogenic seawater and freshwater mingle. of African and Asian nations bring- ÆÆGaližanska cesta 8 (098 926 9292, sunshades and order cold beers at themselves towards the end of takes you past Sv Elizeja Church. Valbandon is where you can rent time of day. The varied plant life here – sea ing Tito gifts – elephants, zebras facebook.com/pg/arboretumpub) your leisure.

Time Out Istria 2019 90 91 2019 Time Out Istria Rovinj Top 20

the lively artistic life of Rovinj dates back to a first exhibition here in 1967 – 50th anniversary events took place in 2017. As well as paintings, Rovinj mounted for display in doorways and on Grisia’s stone walls, stalls proffer all kinds of artisanal arte- facts. If you’re here on the second Sunday in August, an outdoor festi- Top 20 val allows anyone to set up and sell Rovinj is Istria at its most chic, a scenic resort of their art. Among the amateur sea- scapes, you might find the odd gem. quality restaurants and cocktail bars, galleries and boutiques. Sail over to Sveta Katarina 4 The closest island to Rovinj harbour, Sveta Katarina was the playground of various counts and ROVINJ is Istria at its most A cocktail would seem apt, and dukes in the Habsburg days, the chic, a scenic resort of quality there are plenty of choices, or forerunners of today’s pleasure restaurants and cocktail bars, there’s Istrian Favorit beer on tap, seekers. The photos you may have galleries and boutiques. Stone affordable house wine and juices seen of foolhardy tourists leaping houses and cobbled streets lend for the kids. There’s no food to from high rocks into the sea were an authentic air – this is also the speak of but that can all come later. taken here. More sedate holiday- most gay-friendly of Croatia’s ÆÆTrg Sv Eufemije (098 814 445, makers make do with catching the coastal destinations. facebook.com/Caffe-bar-XL) frequent ferry over, wandering around the verdant pathways, past Bask in Rovinj’s Do lunch by the pool vineyards and ancient olive trees, finest sunset UlikaRovinj is an upscale to find their own spot at a deserted 1 Perched by the Church of 2 camping complex just and invariably rocky part of the St Euphemia atop the Old Town, outside Rovinj, a short walk from coast. If you haven’t brought any Caffe Bar XL is the perfect spot for the beach. Here, from March refreshments, you’ll find the bar a bar. Wicker chairs and wooden to October, Barba Danilo is a and restaurant open at the island’s tables overlook fields, then the gourmet corner that revives the namesake hotel, a family-focused Adriatic beyond, streaked with restaurant the same family once resort complex with tennis courts, amber beams of sunset if you ran before setting up this luxury Grisia swimming pools and water sports. find a spot at the right time of day. lodging. Tables and chairs are ÆÆmaistra.com/island-hotel-katarina-rovinj

ranged around the swimming pool and a tasteful interior, where lunch (noon-2.30pm) consists of salads, light snacks and tapas, and dinner of Istrian classics given a contemporary twist. Wines and olive oils are immaculately sourced – then again, the family has had lots of practice. ÆÆPolari 5 (052 830 002, dn-rovinj. com/english_ulika_rovinj) Amble along Grisia Always bustling in summer, 3 stone-paved Grisia is a col- ourful thoroughfare of ateliers and artists’ galleries that leads up to the Island Hotel Katarina Church of St Euphemia. Its role in

Time Out Istria 2019 92 93 2019 Time Out Istria Rovinj Top 20 Rovinj Top 20

Sip champagne vane, while the mural of her mar- ice-cream envy, you just have to nature. Here shade-providing pine passengers and crew lost their lives at Valentino tyrdom feels more reverential, the order the same. Presented in a tall forests grow right up to the shore, and the ship sank to a depth of 35 5 ‘A world of its own’ is the pious saint soon to join the heaven- glass, sundae bowl or dessert boats, ending in rocky beaches. You’ll need metres. The wreck, discovered in motto of pricy Valentino, Rovinj’s ly chorus as lions devour her limbs. the puddings here attract families sandals to wade on the jagged shore, 1958, now provides divers with most celebrated drinkerie, opened all day long. Once the children have but the lack of sand means the sea one of Europe’s most fascinating way before the boom in Croatia – Go the whole seven gone to bed, the grown-ups can is incredibly clear, great for snor- sites, and a popular for trips from way before an independent Croatia courses at Monte come out and play, and lay into one kelling or diving. Walking further Rovinj. Based at the Hotel Istra itself, in fact, in 1989. Back then, 10 Shellfish, suckling of the fine cocktails that the Orange round, past Lone Bay, with its public on Sveti Andrija Island, the Dive the owners knew that Valentino’s pig and that day’s catch, the Bar is also known for. changing cabins, smaller coves have Center Rubin offers escorted dives dramatic location, washed by seven-course menu at recently ÆÆObala palih boraca 4 (facebook. shallow, calm waters ideally suited to the old ship, as well as courses for the waves near Rovinj harbour, Michelin-starred Monte takes in com/pages/The-Orange-Bar) to paddling toddlers. children and beginners. would bring results. Keeping the bounty of Istria on land and sea. ÆÆOtok Sveti Andrija (052 802 things classic and old school, they Closer to home, Dutch-Croatian Sample the wines Sink Guinness and 540, rovinjdiving.com) gradually encouraged customers restaurateurs Tjitske and Danijel at Villa Dobravac mingle with locals to plonk themselves down on the Đekić raid nearby Rovinj market 13 A short taxi hop 15 The only ‘Irish Pub’ Dine amid rocky waterfront, offering brightly on a daily basis for the finest, from the centre of Rovinj, the in town isn’t, really – but the Art contemporary coloured cushions and ever more freshest produce to supply the family estate of Villa Dobravac Public Bar is a damn good local 17 architecture authentic – and expensive – mixed most versatile kitchen in town. is where you’ll find comfortable drinking institution nonetheless. Independent four-star hotel drinks. These days, Valentino is There’s a five-course menu, too, accommodation with sea views, The taps of Guinness and Kilkenny, Arupinum has a restaurant of officially a ‘cocktail & champagne and carefully conceived main- and an expertly stocked wine cellar and surprisingly wide range of the same name, where fresh, bar’, bubbly accounting for as course options. There’s a choice containing six labels produced Irish whiskeys available, allow seasonal ingredients are brought much trade as bloody Marys. Step Monte Restaurant from more than 100 wines to on-site. Fuga blends Merlot, management to place the sign to the fore and home-made pasta off the seaside street, lose the accompany. Set on a steep cobbled Cabernet Franc and Cabernet ‘Irish Pub’ over the doorway, is prominent. Given that warmer crowds and commune with nature, slope in Rovinj’s historic centre, Sauvignon, while Toccata adds hence the confusion. Unplugged evenings and a larger influx of your cocktail and your companion. easy getaway from the crowds After chased them first multi-media museum around considering the quality of fare on Teran to the mix. Tours and sessions towards the end of the guests allow tables to be taken ÆÆSanta Croce 28 (052 830 thanks to a boat that heads out off, the island was pretty much the Mediterranean specifically offer, Monte could be starched and tastings are also laid on, as well as week and DJ parties at weekends out and ranged around the pool, 683, valentino-rovinj.com) from the town harbour every hour. deserted until the well-to-do dedicated to a fishing boat. The stuffy but it’s anything but – all sampling of own-made olive oil attract a regular local trade, and the whole ambience feels very This is, in fact, two islands in one, Habsburg Hutterotts erected a vessel in question is the batana, feels funky and informal, just the and marmalade. though tourists are most certainly Mediterranean, accentuated by the Take a taxi boat to Sveti Andrija and Maškin. The family mansion and surrounded it the traditional wooden boat of this right combination for a relaxed, ÆÆKarmelo 1 (052 813 006, villa-dobravac.com) welcome, this is one bar where they sleek, contemporary architecture Sveti Andrija Island larger Sveti Andrija was where with hundreds of plants and trees region. It is still very much in use top-class dining experience. don’t swamp the place. that defines this recently opened 6 Just off the coast of Rovinj, Benedictine monks opened a from around the world – these today – as you will find out should ÆÆMontalbano 75 (052 830 203, www.monte.hr) Stroll the ÆÆCarrera 88A (091 519 1340, establishment. All takes place just Sveti Andrija Island (also known church in the sixth century, rebuilt you still see, and smell, today. you head out at sunset in a batana Golden Cape facebook.com/Art-Public-Bar) outside the centre of Rovinj, in an as ‘Red Island’) is a handy and by the Franciscans 900 years later. The family mausoleum can also expertly rowed by the one of the Sink your teeth 14 For serious, pine-forest- enclave of luxury lodging that also be visited. Most come here for museum staff. As both sit in the into steak ed beaches, head south of Rovinj, Visit the Adriatic includes the stand-out Hotel Lone. the secluded beaches, though, romantically lit batana, they will 11Opened in 2017, the past the marina, to the wooded pen- Titanic ÆÆLuje Adamovića 29 (052 853 backdropped by scented pine trees explain the importance of the boat Steakhouse & Pub Istriano doesn’t insula of Zlatni rt, or Golden Cape. 16 Known as the Adriatic 750, arupinum-rovinj.com) and facing clearer waters than to Rovinj’s history and , beat around the bush. It serves The stroll along the waterfront is a Titanic, the Baron Gautsch was a found immediately around Rovinj from the intricacies of night fishing steak, house-style thick and juicy, little more than a kilometre from Habsburg passenger ship that hit a Cycle the itself. Although your boat over will to the construction of the vessel with simple trimmings such as town. There’s also a cluster of resorts mine laid by the Austro-Hungarian Limes Trail invariably be crowded, it’s easy to itself. If you’re here in daytime, grana padano cheese, rucola and around here, but they’re uphill, so navy off the coast of Istria at the 18 A journey of nearly find your own space for that real the museum uses film, music and potatoes. It’s pretty serious about the beaches are mostly undisturbed start of World War I. Nearly 150 40km, three-quarters of it on away-from-it-all feeling. interactive exhibits to tell the same its beers, too, hosting its own ÆÆmaistra.com/island-hotel-istra-rovinj story – creative workshops allow Bavarian-style Oktoberfest, where you to try your hand at making litre-tall glasses are clinked over Discover a little fishing nets or plaiting demijohns. hearty portions of pork. The rest of culinary gem ÆÆObala P. Budicina 2 (052 812 the year, the menu changes weekly 7 Tucked in behind the 593, www.batana.org) – steak is a constant, of course – marina, Segutra is one of those which means that fish options places that the first-time visitor Admire brave St alternate from tuna to bream. may not stumble over but longer- Euphemia There’s always a vegetarian choice, term residents now swear by – and 9 Thrown to the lions in too, and often a little live music in keep quiet about. Modestly small, AD303 though apparently mauled the evenings. with a scattering of tables outside, to death by a bear, poor St Euphe- ÆÆStjepana Radića (052 524 713, Segutra chalks up its specials mia is venerated in the Eastern facebook.com/istrianoRv) on the board outside. The tuna, Orthodox faith. How her relics salmon, sardines and top-class came to be placed in a sarcophagus Spoil yourself on white fish are grilled just right, in Rovinj is not entirely clear – leg- a gooey dessert the steak equally. Service and end has it that her coffin washed 12 The first thing you presentation are impeccable, ashore here, though other remains notice when you walk into the the atmosphere informal – but are still placed in the Church of St Orange Bar, just in from Rovinj’s there’s serious work going on in George in Istanbul, where she met seafront, is its encyclopaedic the kitchen. Open from Easter her fate. The Rovinj church that dessert menu. Actually, that’s a until October. bears her name, built in Baroque complete lie. The very first you ÆÆVrata pod zidom 4 (052 812 004) style in 1736, stands on the site of notice are the boats brimming an earlier one also named after St with ice-cream concoctions, lavish Discover Rovinj George. Euphemia is represented sauces and little umbrellas being St Euphemia history by rowboat in statue form, somewhat pro- served to a nearby table – and, Hotel Lone 8 Batana House is perhaps the saically converted into a weather there being nothing worse than Time Out Istria 2019 94 95 2019 Time Out Istria Rovinj

tarmac, the Limes Trail starts and shrimp and the fish in an olive you’ll need sandals to wade on the ends at the Amarin Tourist Resort BEST OF THE REST crust provide exciting ways to jagged shore, but the lack of sand just north of Rovinj and takes three enjoy fresh seafood. Meat options means the sea is incredibly clear, hours. The route takes you through Brasserie Adriatic include turkey fillet with pine nuts great for snorkelling or diving. Romantic Mediterranean Saline, Valalta, Rovinjsko Selo and The Brasserie Adriatic harks back and steak on rocket and cherry The walk along the water is a ROVINJ ROVIGNO Porton Biondi, through lovely land- to the classic era of fin-de-siècle tomatoes. It’s also a wine bar, with little more than a kilometre from scapes and past several churches, French cuisine and the heritage of a dozen Malvazijas alone to choose town: head past the Hotel Park, to St Martin’s viewpoint and the Mak- the surrounding hotel, which dates from. Reserve the table by the the area of Monte Mulini and the lavun archaeological site. Around back to 1913 and the earliest days window for dramatic sea views. succession of pebbly coves that Rovinjsko Selo, you should also of tourism in Rovinj. Set in the cen- ÆÆSv Križa 38 (052 813 186, puntulina.eu) forms the south side of Lone Bay. notice the kažuni, a field shelter of tre of town, overlooking the main Relandscaped in 2014, Mulini dry stone walls, along with the pre- square and the harbour, the Bras- Mediterraneo Bar Rovinj beach itself combines smooth historic fortress of Turnina. serie Adriatic also brings a contem- Lapped, literally, by the Adriatic, the concrete with natural rock for ÆÆistria-bike.com porary touch to the kitchen, with Mediterraneo is one of those stupen- comfort and authenticity, with a tuna tataki as part of the Adriatic dously well located drinking spots decent beach bar alongside and Meet Old Masters mixed starter, polenta with crab bathed in orange sunset, where they plenty of things to hire and play on and modern locals and chive oil as a warm starter, gilt- could serve gruel in a glass and still in the water. 19 Founded by a group head bream sous-vide as a main, have everyone smiling for selfies The bay culminates in the pine- of local artists in 1954, the Rovinj and pistachio tuile with chocolate while they drink it. There’s no gruel fringed peninsula of Zlatni Rt Heritage Museum houses Istria’s for the pot de crème dessert. The here, of course, only quality mixed (Golden Cape), featuring a family- prime collection of Italian art from decor is equally 21st-century, drinks at reasonable prices – and friendly beach of fine gravel. the 1400s onwards. Renaissance shiny industrial in feel offset by the setting does the rest. Open well The other beaches are mostly gems by the great Venetian walls of glass. into October, so if you’re here out of undisturbed nature, ending in Giovanni Bellini and the school of ÆÆObala Riva Budicina 16 (052 803 season, you can still enjoy a scenic rocky beaches. Walking further Bonifazio de Pitati share second- 510, maistra.com/hotel-adriatic- drink, just take advantage of one of round, past Lone Bay, with its floor space with Baroque painter rovinj/sub/brasserie-adriatic) the free blankets. public changing cabins, smaller such as Nicolò Grassi, Antonio ÆÆSv Križa 24 (091 532 8357, facebook. coves have shallow, the calm Zanchi and Marco Ricci. One flight Café Bar Limbo com/mediterraneo.rovinj) waters of Kuvi beach ideally suited below is a floor of from The Limbo provides you with one to paddling toddlers. the later 20th century and there’s of those classic Rovinj experiences, Snack Bar Rio About three kilometres south of also a section dedicated to Rovinj ever so slightly quirky, all in very Run by the same Pellizzer family town there are two nudist beaches, artists from the same period – some good taste, and offering quality that made La Puntulina such a Polari Bay and the adjacent Cape of whom would have helped set up throughout. Here you perch on a mainstay of the local dining scene, Eve. ISTRIA|CROATIA this very museum. Summer sees stool or brightly coloured cushion the Snack Bar Rio is a real surprise In the opposite direction, a short a flurry of temporary exhibitions on the steps of a steep walkway in that it’s almost anything but a walk north of the town centre, On the magnificent coast of Istria (Croatia), right below the Lim Fjord, is the most by local artists – and also big – hence ‘Limbo’ – while sipping snack bar. Here you do battle with Porton Biondi is a popular public romantic place in the Mediterranean! The town of Rovinj is the right destination international names and genres on fine Istrian wine or, ideal for lobster, tuck into fine fish or enjoy beach with no natural shade but such as Picasso, Dalí, Chagall early evening, an Aperol spritz. a plate of perfectly prepared pasta sun loungers and umbrellas for for all of you seeking a sentimental atmosphere of the times that have forever and Pop Art. There are appetisers, too, platters and seafood, in informal, café-like hire. There’s also a scuba-diving gone by. In the Mediterranean, you can find it here, in the town that has begun its ÆÆTrg maršala Tita 11 (052 816 of prosciutto and cheese – but surroundings – the Rio opened centre alongside, along with a romantic life on an island, its restricted area resulting in crowded houses, narrow 720, muzej-rovinj.hr) given the location close to a dozen as a bar in 1968 and still operates number of bars and eateries. It may restaurants, you’re as well using as a place to catch the sun on the be worth the ten to 15-minute trek streets and small squares, still untouched by modern urbanism. On the seaside, the Try out Rovinj’s this as a pre-meal pick-me-up. terrace over your first coffee of further north, to Borik beach, for its town is protected by a high rocky shore and house walls built on cliffs, while the most ambitious ÆÆCasale 22B (091 570 5318) the morning. sheltering greenery, clearer water, mainland side is protected by solid walls. The town is dominated by the baroque St. eatery ÆÆObala Alda Rismonda 13 (052 813 564) finer pebbles and showers. 20 Euphemia’s Church, its 60-meter tower providing a view of grey and red rooftops Relatively new in the culinary Konoba Jure From here, a path leads you stakes, Bookeria by prominent Trg On the outskirts of Rovinj, sur- Veli Jože through to Valdaliso beach, part and chimneys, streets and squares, the port and pier with ships and boats, and the Pignaton in Rovinj’s historic centre rounded by holiday apartments, Istrian-style dishes comprise the of the campsite of the same name, marina harbouring yachts. This unique old town core, the 67-kilometer shoreline, is nothing if not ambitious. At this the year-round Konoba Jure does a menu at this quaint spot near the so a modest fee is charged to enter. prime location, it would be all too fine job with classic Istrian cuisine, harbour with a high-ceilinged On the plus side, it’s cleaned every 2,289 ha of protected green surfaces and improved park forests, 16 islands, islets easy for this eatery – it feels too the fish fresh, the Malvasia wine interior crammed with antiques day, and offers tennis courts, and reefs, make this town unique. Built upon a rich fishermen’s tradition, it has informal and laid-back to be called crisp. Thin pljukanci pasta with and sea-going kitsch. There is windsurfing, beach volleyball become distinctive for its unique boat called batana and its songs bitinada. Its a restaurant, though it takes its shrimp is a particular speciality, seating for 40 on a pavement and a children’s playground – if beauty was particularly appreciated by artists who have painted the most beautiful cooking seriously – to fill the menu as is the fish soup. No menu, so ask terrace. Specialities include you’re here with the family, it’s with the usual suspects and cash your waiter what’s good that day. shellfish lasagne, crab with truffles, worth the admission. Close by, motifs here and exhibited them on Grisia, the street of artists. in. Not a bit of it. Here crabs and Ulica Cardemia 22 (052 813 397) cod in white wine and baked lamb Amarin beach is also pristine, with This is place providing endless options - walks in wonderful nature, sport and scallops feature prominently, such with potatoes. Sv Križa 1 (091 052 showers, changing cabins and easy recreation activities, sailing, diving, climbing, biking, discovering hidden beauties, as the crab ravioli, and scallops in La Puntulina 816 337, velijoze.net/vj.html) access into the water, so suitable for various sauces. The fish is fresh Perched on a drop above the sea, youngsters. Again, this is part of a cultural antiques, archaeological sites and culinary specialties, all combined with and accompanied by a sprinkling this spot adds a gourmet Italian larger resort, so daily admission is accommodation in high-quality hotels, tourist resorts and camps providing of spinach and pine nuts, rather touch to local cuisine. La Puntulina BEACHES charged to outsiders. numerous possibilities for a pleasant holiday, wellness delights, business than a dollop of the usual watery has been run by the same Pellizzer To get away from it all, take the blitva. Great care is also taken over family since 2004 and prides itself POPULAR WITH LOCALS is the taxi boat over from the Old Town conferences and sporting activities. dessert, semifreddo or home-made on fresh ingredients, creative small swimming area, consisting to Sv Katarina Island, where you’ll Romantic and mysterious, yet full of options for an unforgettable time, Rovinj has ice cream. A sun-catching terrace sauces and a careful mix of of rocks and concreted platforms, find rocky/pebbly beaches with become and will remain a town you want to revisit. completes the picture. flavours. The fish fillet Puntulina, on the south side of the Old Town few amenities but wonderful views ÆÆTrg Pignaton 7 (091 219 0007, with a delicately spiced tomato peninsula. For the pine-forested of Rovinj across the water. Nearby facebook.com/bookeriarovinj) sauce, the bass stuffed with beaches at the edge of town, hidden coves provide intimacy. e-mail: [email protected] Time Out Istria 2019 96 www.rovinj-tourism.hr Vrsar Top 20

the Borisi clan moved up the Adriatic in the late 1500s to escape the Turks. Eventually settling in Funtana, they built the church Vrsar, that dominates the town centre today. Dating back to 1621, the Parish Church of St Bernard features a 34-metre-high tower, of classic white stone. Within, along Funtana with a 17th-century painting of Mary and child, are the tomb of one of the Borisi clan and the family coat of arms on a memorial plate. Alongside stands the two- & Limski floor Villa Borisi, dating back a decade earlier, built by Borisi patriarch Bernardo, originally Renaissance, later augmented Canal with Baroque touches. Kept in the family despite Count Borisi’s later eight-year trial and conviction for murder, it passed into Habsburg, Italian then Yugoslav Top 20 hands. Today it remains closed to the public. Travellers can visit the Limski kanal and its wealth of oysters before making their way to the pleasant Savour the towns of Funtana and Vrsar freshest oysters 6 A modest shack stuck out on a jetty at this inland end of the Limski Canal houses a remarkable one-man operation. Offering some of the finest, freshest shellfish you’ll find, its oysters a fraction of the price that you’d pay in Paris, Istrida aka Tony’s Oyster Shack has been in business for more than 15 years. During this time, owner Emir Sošić has managed to develop his shellfish farm so that he now delivers to restaurants across Istria. Limski Canal Individual customers can still turn up on spec and pay a little over €1 for each divine oyster, flavoured AN ISTRIA IN MINIATURE, Vrsar first-floor location. The Trošt is Take a boat up the head for the large campsite at Enjoy a harbourside with a touch of lemon. Emir also is a medieval hilltop town perched most probably the best restaurant Limski Canal Koversada, between Vrsar and drink in Vrsar sells mussels by the kilo. above the mouth to the Limski in Vrsar. The large terrace has 2 Several companies offer the Limski Canal. In itself, this 4 Although the building is rath- ÆÆistrida.com Canal. The setting couldn’t be a wonderful view out over the boat tours of the fjord-like Limski is nothing unusual, only that er retro and the venue small, Nieves is more dramatic, Limski a 12-kilo- harbour. Inside there are two Canal – perhaps the most visitor- everyone will then discard their Vrsar’s focal bar in summer. Looking Visit an abandoned city metre long sliver of sea that cuts dining areas. The smaller room friendly is the four-hour jaunt run clothes and spend pretty much out over the harbourfront, with a cou- Settled by ancient straight into the heart of the has an open fireplace – employed by Rovinj-based Excursions Delfin. the entire holiday naked. This self- ple of other cafés, ice-cream shops 7 even before the Romans Istrian peninsula. Forested cliffs in the cooking of some dishes – Setting off from Rovinj harbour at contained holiday ‘town’ is right and eateries for company, it attracts reached Istria, in the Lim rise to a height of 150 metres and wooden beams and rustic walls. 1pm daily in high season, a pretty on the beach and offers naturists families by day, and discerning beer Valley was considered important backdrop the canal’s clear water of The second space is rather more boat with a top deck for prime all they could wish for. Istria has drinkers by night, now that Nieves enough to have a pair of fortresses emerald green. Filmmakers have formal, with sliding glass doors sightseeing takes four hours to a long tradition of nudism but has followed recent trends and built there in medieval times, used it as a convincing location for that open out onto the terrace in explore the green waters of canal, Koversada is the original and begun stocking a number of more hence its name of Two Castles Viking dramas. Near Vrsar, Fun- summer. The high quality of both with its steep, forested slopes and probably still the best resort. Its sought-after domestic ales rather (‘Dvigrad’). This made it important tana is a popular resort equipped the food and the service is happily plentiful oyster beds. Much is undisputable claim to fame is than the ubiquitous Croatian lagers. enough to be sacked by various with a large marina, while tucked accompanied by reasonable prices. made of the canal’s piratical past – having been the one and only At the height of high season, a couple invaders, first the Genoese, then inland from the Limski Canal, the Unsurprisingly, Željko Brajković’s the boat makes a 20-minute stop in destination of its kind behind the of decent musicians will be bashing the Venetians and finally by Uskok villages of Dvigrad and Mrgani menu majors on fresh fish and front of a cave thought to have been Iron Curtain – Koversarda opened out a few blues and R&B tunes to give pirates. Plague and malaria did hark back to a piratical past. seafood – house specialities used by Captain Morgan himself. as far back as 1961. Its popularity the evening a little swing. the rest. By the early 1700s, the include Istrian-style squid with The trip finishes back in Rovinj. remains undimmed. If you’re in ÆÆObala maršala Tita 23A, Vrsar last citizens abandoned Dvigrad Have a memorable meal polenta, grilled monkfish and fish ÆÆexcursion-delfin.com need of a little comfort as well, (052 442 325, 091 5203 913) to its fate. Curious visitors 300 in a retro restaurant baked with potatoes under hot then Koversada also offers four- years later find ghostly remains 1 Don’t be put off by the ashes. Booking essential. Be at one with nature star, two-person apartments. Meet the Borisis and overgrown fortifications Parish Church of St. Martin 1970s exterior or the steep ÆÆObala Maršala Tita 1A (052 Every summer without ÆÆKoversada 1, Vrsar (052 800 200, Originally from Bar in – although moves are afoot to flight of steps leading up to this 445 197, restoran-trost.hr) 3 fail, thousands of tourists www.maistracamping.com) 5 modern-day Montenegro, preserve what’s left. Time Out Istria 2019 98 99 2019 Time Out Istria Vrsar Top 20 Vrsar Top 20

Tour Vrsar in a old an idea of what the dinosaur years ago. The stone quarry that this 250-seater features an open honours the two Croatian airmen semi-submarine era was like – some of the most once operated here supplied the terrace overlooking the canal, killed when Vrsar airport was hit 8 Moored in summer on important prehistoric finds materials for construction not only shortly before it ends its journey a by cluster bombs in 1991. The the main waterfront Vrsar, this have been unearthed around nearby, but as far away as Ravenna, quarter of the way into the Istrian Aeropark operates from May bright red semi-submarine is just Istria. Along with the pony historians now think. The Church peninsula. Here, you can tuck into to October, with group visits in that – a tourist-friendly vessel rides, dinosaur rides and circus of St George still standing in the mussels cooked with garlic and winter, and also offers panoramic that half-submerges as its sets off performances, all attractions middle of the island was built in white wine, or the oysters for which flights over Istria and skydiving from Obala maršala Tita, allowing are free once you pay a one- the early days of Croatian culture, the Limski Canal is famous. The on certain days. those above to enjoy the sea views off admission. with a double-apse, as was the style white fish is similarly excellent. ÆÆ098 233 676, aeroparkvrsar.blogspot.com and those below to explore the ÆÆIstarska ulica, Funtana (052 of the time. Rather than left aban- Similarly, set back a little from the life underwater. Large windows 4456 327, dinopark.hr) doned, the church was completely water’s edge, the Viking restaurant Devour Vrsar’s expose the darting fish and shy restored in the mid-1990s and is the also has uninterrupted views of finest pizza shellfish – the bottom of the craft Party at Casanova scene of celebrations every April Limski’s green waters. Oysters 19 Vrsar has plenty of reaches down to a depth of nearly Named after Vrsar’s 23, St George’s Day, when locals are, understandably, the house pizzerias to choose from but 1.5 metres. After the tour is over, 10 most notorious former come over on fishing boats for this speciality but the seasonal range relaxed, family-run Fančita is you come back to the same spot resident, the Casanova Beach annual communal event. The rest of fresh shellfish is formidable. regularly voted one of the top in where you set off, facing the Club near Montraker has been of the year, the island is silent, but a Particularly good is the lobster Istria. Everyone’s favourites are little island of Sveti Juraj beside the local party spot for many a modest fee should persuade a local – served buzara style on a bed of made with fresh ingredients and Belvedere beach. year. And every year, it seems, fisherman to you over the pasta. Viking also specialises in served in the main dining space of ÆÆObala maršala Tita 14, Vrsar (095 444 the season lasts longer, with the short distance from Vrsar. white-fleshed sea-fish such as sea a large, roofed terrace that makes 1040, semisubmarine-vrsar.com) 2018 big closing party taking bass, dentex, John Dory, gilthead up for its lack of sea views. Inside place on September 28. Before Dine like a Viking and grouper. the traditional wood-fired oven Take the kids to a that big shebang, from late April In 1963, Hollywood ÆÆFjord 052 448 222; Viking 052 448 119 is the main draw. There’s also dinosaur park onwards, local DJs provide the 12 superstar Richard a full menu featuring plenty of 9 Just outside Funtana, dance sounds, bar staff mix decent, Widmark and scores of extras Rent a boat traditional Istrian dishes plus a Dino Park is the first of its kind in affordable cocktails and the beach in Viking helmets descended and explore good local wine list. Croatia, a themed amusement and sunset do the rest. By day, have on the Limski Canal to film 13 Based at the marina ÆÆDalmatinska 38, Vrsar (052 441 park set in an old stone quarry, the kitchen fix you a pizza and the swashbuckling big-screen that dominates the main seafront 019, facebook.com/fancitavrsar) large enough to accommodate spent the afternoon relaxing in movie The Long Ships. With this at Funtana, Istra Nautika has all moving life-size dinosaur models. a deckchair. dramatic part of Istria standing kinds of boats for rental, with or Discover an Around it are ranged all kinds of ÆÆVrsar (091 206 2987, m.facebook. in for the fjords of Scandinavia, without a skipper. Vessels run exceptional family-friendly entertainment, a com/casanova.beachbar) the production saved the film from a basic Reful and its 30-litre 20 konoba children’s train, a mini dinosaur- company considerable expense tank to a six-metre Barracuda SX, The word konoba, loosely themed cinema, a pirate ship, Hop over to an being on location for six weeks with a sundeck and shower cabin, translated as ‘tavern’, conjures up a carousel, trampolines, a uninhabited island in what was then Yugoslavia. which can accommodate up to images of a homely, family-run playground and a prehistoric 11 Facing directly oppo- It also allowed savvy locals to seven people. A skipper is generally eatery, all rustic stone walls and workshop. A nature trail 1.5km site Vrsar, the island of Sveti Juraj open a large-scale restaurant, a good idea as he can point out Tuck into steak Knock back directly from farms in Bolivia, the wooden-beam ceilings, where long also gives visitors young and was a hive of activity nearly 2,000 Fjord. Still in operation today, landmarks such as Cape Grget, the on a picturesque cocktails at Galapagos and . Guests a tourist-friendly menu plays uninhabited islet of Veli Školj and 15 terrace 16 Papillon have a choice of two terraces, safe and portions are huge. Just the other smaller outcrops that dot Under the ownership of Mario It may not be on the busy Vrsar one by the front door, the other outside Funtana, on the main this part of the Adriatic. You may Fabrisa for the last 25 years, waterfront but the trek up to behind the belltower, while inside road to the Limski Canal, Konoba also wish to plot up a less crowded the Histria Da Mario on the Papillon, on the outskirts of the display the Gallic flair suggested Bare ticks the boxes related to beach, either towards Vrsar or main road that skirts Funtana historic centre, is well worth the by the venue name: a swirl of décor and ambience but where Zelena in the opposite direction. shows the extent of Fabrisa’s bother. Expertly mixed drinks marble, a little abstract painting the food is concerned, it’s a ÆÆistra-nautika.com experience in the hospitality are served with a smile and a and delicious home-made cakes completely different level. Yes, trade. A veteran of the Plava little bowl of nibbles, as if due displayed under the glass. As the you’ll usually still find Istrian Watch art in action Laguna group in Poreč, Fabrisa reward for making the effort up day wears on, cocktails, tap beers boškarin beef, fish soup and fuži Every year, in the opened this restaurant where a here. All the standards are here, and local wines come into play. pasta twists with scampi and 14 abandoned quarry of string of others now operates, so mojitos, martinis and more, ÆÆOrlandova 47, Vrsar (098 957 0352, facebook. truffles, but the kitchen does a Montraker outside Vrsar, a unique intense competition encourages complemented by a decent range com/LAngélique-café-149085271805791) whole lot more with lamb, tuna arts project takes place. The him to push the envelope as far of Istrian wines and well chosen and sea bass than many of its Montraker International Sculpture as the menu is concerned. Steak background music. There’s plenty Climb into an original more mainstream counterparts School involves a gathering of Motovun-style with truffles, of terrace space and if it turns MiG supersonic would elsewhere around Istria. students whose task is to transform rabbit stew, spicy Istrian lasagne a little chilly later, a nice buzz 18 jet fighter Carpaccios, imaginative mare lumps of stone into finely crafted and, for vegetarians, mushroom around the bar inside. Between Vrsar and the Limski e monti pairings and ragus works of art. In order to do this, lasagne, all differ from standard ÆÆPorečka 2, Vrsar (091 519 8404) Canal, a collection featuring are created, embellished with they are instructed by tutors over offerings. Platters might be the a Soviet MiG 21 jet fighter, an spectacular foams and sauces, the course of these three weeks in way to go, either for seafood or Start the day with Antonov 2 and several Cessnas and presented with due care September. Members of the public meat, carnivores particularly well quality coffee await with open cockpits on on a stark white plate. Equally, can go and watch the sculptors catered for here. Quality Istrian 17 The best spot for coffee field by a small local airport. desserts lend a 21st-century in action, and see the progress wine, a Kozlović from Buje, say, in Vrsar, L’Angelique was forced The Aeropark Vrsar allows twist to tradition while wine is they make. The best creations, may accompany. All takes place on to close for the 2018 season but is visitors to clamber in and sit a strong suit, top whites and a including ones from the current an expansive, leafy terrace, with expected to be back in business in the pilot’s seat, with all the fine selection of local Terans summer batch, are then placed nearly three times more space than by 2019. Opened in 2007, original instruments in the available. To round it off, prices in prominent places around the comfortable interior put to L’Angelique embodies a decade cabin. A guided tour in English have been kept within more than Vrsar, parks, squares and on good use if the evening turns chilly. of dedication o the part of owner of the hangar points out various reasonable limits. Oysters the waterfront. ÆÆIstarska 22, Funtana (052 445 Tomislav Maslač, who sources military artefacts once used in ÆÆKamenarija 4, Funtana (052 445 ÆÆmontraker.hr 393, histria-damario.hr) its coffee beans, organic Arabica, aerial conflict, while a memorial 193, facebook.com/BareKonoba)

Time Out Istria 2019 100 101 2019 Time Out Istria Vrsar

for that winning sunset beer. Vrsar has improved the condition few sunshades, steps down into the BEST OF THE REST There's occasional live music at and facilities of its waterfront, sea and the Vala grill bar nearby. weekends and big games screened starting with the City Beach close Further north, towards Funtana, Konoba Kod Luce when it matters. to the Old Town, now equipped Valkenela is an extremely popular This superior, contemporary kono- ÆÆGradska plaža, Orsera (091 909 with a children’s playpark, beach public beach of mainly smooth ba sits on the outskirts of Vrsar’s 7878, facebook.com/SportbarVala) bars, sports courts and a lift for the pebbles, close to the campsite of historic centre and within a short disabled. The beach itself is a mix the same name with a large pool walk of the bar-lined boardwalk. Vinoteka Velum of concrete, rocks and pebbles. complex. Funtana itself has its It’s the kind of place where they not A wine bar crossed with a café, Close by, Belvedere is a Blue Flag own public beach, more a rocky only handle Istrian classics with the Velum has the chops to stock beach lined with sunloungers and cove with steps leading down into reverence, but introduce a new shelf after shelf of quality Istrian pedalos for hire, backdropped by the clear water, overlooking the fish menu featuring Adriatic tuna labels, but with no airs, graces or an expanse of greenery as well kept islet of Školjić. with Dalmatian culinary garniture, pretentions. You can pair your as the beach itself. All is geared For island hopping with beach and a new meat menu showcasing glass – most reds, whites and towards a hassle-free family day fun, Sveti Juraj close to Vrsar has succulent veal carpaccio on a bed rosés can be ordered by the glass out, including the restaurant its own swimming spots dotted of young rocket. A romantic atmos- – with a platter of local prosciutto, alongside. You can also take a ride around the coast – a modest fee phere does the rest. sausage, cheese and olives or, given out on the semi-submarine, whose should persuade a local fisherman ÆÆDalmatinska ulica 18 (091 957 3621) its early opening and waterfront station is parked here. to transport you over the short setting, treat yourself to a quality On the other side of the marina, distance from town. Orlandin coffee and waffle. There are craft Montraker is lined with spots Finally, Vrsar got its somewhat Offering a slow food approach beers, too, most notably the where you can negotiate the rocks racy reputation partly thanks to where fast food is the norm, ie phenomenally successful San into the sea – wear sandals or flip- Casanova’s visits nearly 300 years the Montraker waterfront at the Servolo from Buje. flops. Here the Montraker Water ago, partly thanks to Koversada, northern tip of the Vrsar headland, ÆÆObala Maršala Tita 1A (095 915 8868) Sports Center rents out jet skis, Croatia’s first naturist beach, now Orlandin can deliver a quality canoes, SUP boards, inflatables a whole resort complex of sports, burger to children rushing in from and all kinds of boats. You’ll also games and shops. Of the five the beach, as well as a perfectly BEACHES find the Orlandin eatery and kilometres of beach, close to the grilled sea bass or steak with all the Casanova Beach Bar. A little further entrance to the Limski Canal, not C trimming and accompaniments, Along with creating a summer’s round, Orsera is another popular all is naturist – there’s also a sandy for a couple spending a lazy day on worth of tourist-friendly events, bathing spot, a boardwalk with a stretch, Blue Flag in category. M the coast. It operates as a bar too, Y the cocktail selection including Vrsar a justifiably named Orlandin CM Vrsar enchants its visitors with an authentic romantic atmosphere Finisher with a vodka, whisky and MY rum base. All kinds of pancakes, of an ancient fishermen’s village and with unique nature. Source desserts and ice cream also feature. CY ÆÆMontraker (091 144 1409, orlandin.eu) CMY of inspiration for artists, beloved spot of the famous Casanova -

Ristorante il Tricolore K Vrsar is pure inspiration. Italians write home about this quality pizzeria and trattoria, so this really is a stand-out option if you’re after top-notch pasta or pizza dishes. Desserts are another speciality, authentic cannoli siciliani, closely aligned with other Calabrian favourites at certain times of the year. Like the fare itself, the surroundings are simple but well conceived, a stand-alone stone house, bare brick and wood inside. All in all, a world away from the tourist-focused eateries lining the waterfront some 200 metres from here. ÆÆUlica Rade Končara 78 (095 285 8555) Sport Bar Grill Vala The Vala is a seafront favourite, an unpretentious but professional eatery where you can sate your appetite after a day’s bathing with a plate of squid, ćevapi rissoles in flatbread or grilled fish. Obala maršala Tita 23, 52450 Vrsar It's also a pub, with pool tables T./F. +385 (0)52 441746 lining one side of an expansive www.infovrsar.com www.istra.hr/vrsar covered terrace, with smaller [email protected] tables right over the waterfront

Time Out Istria 2019 102 Advertorial Everything you need to know about Vrsar

Get to know the picturesque waterside town of Vrsar.

VRSAR IS AN ATTRACTIVE Istrian town with an interesting history and rich traditions. It is located on the western coast of Istria, near the Lim Bay. This little fishing village has a special beauty and charm, which has long inspired artists and attracts many tourists. Dating back to the Middle Ages, Vrsar runs up the hillside directly from the sea. Because of this, numer- ous villas were built in the old town centre, offering a unique view of the nearby archi- pelago of 18 islands and islets. This romantic town is still tied in with the visits of legendary adventurer Giacomo Casanova, who described it as a place of good wine and beautiful SPOTLIGHT ON VRSAR’S WATERFRONT women. The historical connection between Casa- nova and Vrsar lives on in the costumed event Casanovatour, which is offered to visitors during The pretty waterfront of Vrsar has been inhabited since before the summer months, and takes place on the slopes Roman times. Surrounded by an archipelago of 18 uninhabited towards the Old Town and picturesque villas. islands, the coastline was once dotted with little fishing boats, with The community has also long been associated with fishing, so the connection of stone quarries around the Montraker peninsula. locals with the sea is everywhere. Surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, Vrsar is home to many local producers who offer TODAY, the luxury marina here is lined with child-friendly climbing features bobbing in topped by the bell tower of St Martin’s Church. excellent wines and homemade olive oils. sleek white boats while the Montraker quarry the water – all the way down to Koversada. Casanova, meanwhile, is still celebrated The smells and tastes of local cuisine are has long been abandoned – but taken over There, south of Vrsar, the beach and campsite on the seafront and around Vrsar’s historic recognisably Istrian. Fish and seafood, as well as every summer by the Montraker International remain the domain of naturists, who have centre. Starting from the waterfront, visitors traditional meat and pasta dishes, are offered in Sculpture School. Taking advantage of the been flocking here since Koversada became can take the interactive Casanova tour that lovely waterfront restaurants or in cosy taverns same local stone that attracted the Romans the first nudist camp behind the Iron Curtain takes in lesser-known nooks and crannies of in the surrounding villages. and Venetians to dig here for centuries, stu- in 1961. These days, accommodation includes the Old Town. Vrsar and its surroundings offer a multitude dents of art academies from Croatia, Slovenia four-star apartments as well as modern Alternatively, you can hop over to the nearest, of opportunities for active holidays, for hiking, throughout the year, including festivals of EVENTS IN 2019 and Italy come here with their mentors for camping facilities. mainly uninhabited island of Sveti Juraj – cycling, swimming, diving and parachuting. gastronomy, entertainment and tradition, three weeks in September to fashion pieces Vrsar’s other claim to fame is its connection either rent from one of the many motor-boat Long promenades along the sea beckon for music and culture. There are also numerous Fishermen’s Festival – April to September of art that are later placed in prominent spots to Casanova, the amorous Italian adventurer. outlets around the Vrsar marina or have a local relaxing walks or recreational runs, and miles sporting events, live concerts and intimate Old Fair under a Castle – June & September around Vrsar, parks, squares and along the According to his memoirs, he docked here sailor take you across for a nominal fee. Site of of cycling trails for exciting rides on two wheels. locations in the Old Town, and festivals of Festival of Sea and Guitars, Vrsar Serenade, waterfront. Members of the public can go and twice in the 1740s, the second time as a soldier another quarry that would have attracted many There is a particularly attractive trail through classical music in Vrsar churches. Concerts in the Church – June to September see the sculptors in action – perhaps as locals – although in his writings, he complains about Venetian sculptors 500 or more years ago, Sveti the centuries-old forest of Konti, which leads Vrsar is a place of pleasure for those who want Casanovatour – May to September would have done when the likes of famed the rather straightlaced society he found here. Juraj is centrepieced by the renovated Church all the way to the village of Kloštar and the aban- to relax in the crystal-clear sea and in pristine Limes Bike Tour – May Renaissance sculptor Antonio Rizzo carved For generations, the bishops of Poreč would of St George, the original built in the earliest doned monastery of St Michael. In Vrsar, you can nature, explore historical treasures, take part in Ocean Lava Triathlon – October here in the late 1400s. have summerhouses here in Vrsar, the rather days of Croatian culture. also go for a diving adventure, exploring caves, interesting and entertaining festivals, or enjoy Lim Bay Challenge – May & December The waterfront promenade, or lungomare, grand properties you can still see if you explore Montraker International Sculpture School paddling or rock climbing along the Lim Bay. an active vacation. For all details about events: www. runs almost without interruption from the the twisting medieval streets that rise up behind www.infovrsar.com Vrsar offers visitors numerous events Vrsar is a place that inspires. infovrsar.com popular public beach at Valkanela – with the seafront, creating a picturesque panorama ÆÆKoversada (www.maistracamping.com)

Time Out Istria 2019 104 105 2019 Time Out Istria Poreč Top 20

of worship, and a Roman villa, were built here before Bishop Euphrasius himself got to work in the mid 500s AD. The complex Poreč is quite extensive and you’ll need at least a couple of hours to explore it, taking in the baptistry, the bell tower and what’s left of the Bishop’s Palace from where Top 20 Euphrasius directed operations. Poreč is a popular resort with Byzantine And there’s little doubt this is his work, the bishop having left his treasures and scores of restaurants, cafés likenesses and inscriptions all and package hotels. over the strikingly bright mosaics around the Basilica. Glittering gold colouring and sparkling semi- precious gems all feature amid the sumptuous mosaics, a pristine example of Early Byzantine HALFWAY between Rovinj and the showcase square when the architecture. Construction is said Novigrad on Istria’s busy west Emperor Augustus made this to have taken ten years, though coast, Poreč has long been given former fortified military camp various elements, such as the over to tourism, even before Croa- a city in the first century AD. At 13th-century cimborium based tia’s current boom. This doesn’t that time, two temples stood here, on St Mark’s in Venice, were mean that this former Roman colo- one dedicated to Mars, the other added much later. ny doesn’t have a history. Known to to Neptune. Without the expanse ÆÆEufrazijeva 22 (052 431 635, zupaporec. Italians – and the rest of the world or detail of the Roman forum in com/euphrasian-basilica.html) until 1947 – as Parenzo, Poreč Pula, Trg Marafor requires a little contains the Euphrasian Basilica, imagination to conjure up images a 6th-century wonder of Byzantine of toga-clad citizens strolling architecture. The once uniform around it, chatting – the former hotel stock has improved no end, temples are piles of undocumented though tourists strolling along focal rubble, with stubs of columns historic Decumanus will still be scattered around. The unkempt, pestered by restaurant barkers. balding grass on which they sit hardly adds to the experience. Enjoy an elegant repast But, taken together with ever Overlooking bobbing lively Decumanus, Trg Marafor 1 catamarans and Sv Nikola does give an idea of the lay-out of island beyond, Divino is where this seafaring settlement 2,000 diners are happy to pay that little years ago, and could probably bit more for that significant extra do with some kind of visitor- quality. Here the fillet of sea bass friendly artist’s impression or is stuffed with scampi and truffle annotated diagram. mousse, the salmon is sprinkled with mustard seeds and the Enjoy a quality lobster is baked in Mediterranean meat-free meal herbs… and the duck breast comes 3 That rarity of rarities, a with a Cointreau sauce, the foie decent vegetarian (and vegan) gras is served with strawberry restaurant deep in tourist central, Splash about at Aqua Colors is still finding its way and red pepper, and prunes Bistro Artha makes best use of Croatia’s largest in terms of other entertainment and bacon accompany the pork its location – close to Poreč city 4 water park – an Animation Corner has been fillet. For all that, Divino is far market. The menu has plenty With 13 waterslides, including set up on the other side of the from snobby, a children’s menu of options without forcing you the Looping Rocket, the Space complex from the Sports Zone. for ‘little gourmands’ including to resort to pizza, and whatever Boat and the Magicone, two large Admission is structured in whole- spaghetti pomodoro – with fresh you choose – pasta with truffles pools, one with a half-hourly wave day, six-hour and 210-minute tomatoes, of course. Presentation in a creamy sauce, say – you can feature, and half a kilometre of price bands. is exquisite, service fitting with the accompany it with a tasty, fresh Lazy River, Aqua Colors Poreč ÆÆMolindrio 10 (052 219 671, aquacolors.eu) surroundings. salad. The desserts are top-quality offers a fun, family-friendly day ÆÆObala Maršala Tita 20 (052 too, and a handy carrot to have if out close to the Zelena tourist Marvel at Byzantine 453 030, en.divino.hr) you’re persuading the kids not to complex outside town. To one side architecture have hamburgers or chicken for are a children’s playground with 5 No other man-made Stroll around a once. Management puts a lot of climbing frames, beach volleyball sight in Croatia is as stunning Roman forum love into the place, and it shows. and another outdoor sports court, as the Euphrasian Basilica by 2 At the head of Decumanus, Hibernates from December with competitions held at various the northern shore of the Poreč the main Roman road that until March. points of the summer. Grown-ups peninsula. It was here that bisects the outcrop of land that ÆÆJože Šurana 10 (052 435 495, Divino can also order an on-site, whole- the first Christians in the area Euphrasian Basilica holds Poreč, Trg Marafor was facebook.com/bistroartha) body massage. Opened in 2016, worshipped – several places

Time Out Istria 2019 106 107 2019 Time Out Istria Tuck into traditional Watch art in action family food Every year, in the 6 In a town developed for 9 abandoned quarry of package tourism during the 1970s Montraker outside Vrsar, close and 1980s, Hrast has been an to Poreč, a unique arts project independent and homely excep- takes place. The Montraker tion to menus with numbered International Sculpture School photographs and one-time visits. involves a gathering of students Unveiled in 1971, its terrace with a whose task is to transform lumps perfect view of the historic centre of stone into finely crafted works of Poreč just around the bay, Hrast of art. In order to do this, they insists on producing as much as are instructed by tutors over the possible in-house. This includes course of these three weeks in the Istrian fuži pasta twists, the September. Members of the public njoki dumplings, the cheese can go and watch the sculptors ravioli and even the bread you’ll be in action, and see the progress served – not to mention the muscat they make. The best creations, wine and olive-oil cake, arancini including ones from the current ricecballs and shrimp soup. Don’t summer batch, are then placed miss out, either, on the prawns in prominent places around in brandy or fish al forno. There’s Vrsar, parks, squares and on meat too – the veal medallions in the waterfront. red-wine sauce is recommended. Oh, and course, it’s all family-run. Go waterskiing ÆÆNikole Tesle 13 (052 433 797, Opened with a live http://restoran-hrast.com) 10 show by Elvis Jackson in 2010, the Ski Lift Poreč near Admire art in a the Zelena Laguna holiday camp Gothic palace and Byblos nightspot is a station 7 Right on Decumanus, on that provides access to a cable 650 a prominent corner with Cardo metres in length. Several kinds of Decumanus Maximus, the Zuccato Palace waterborne activities can be tried retains its historic Gothic exterior, here, including wakeboarding and partly made from stone all the way mono-ski slaloming. Beginners its tower-top restaurant. Further stand-alone Romanesque House, underwhelming, its twin Roman seafood sauces, this preferred from Korčula. The interior has can pay by the hour for instruc- along is the City Museum, with mainly two-storey structure dat- temples little but ruins, though you staple of Istria’s northern coastline been transformed into the Zuccato tion and practice, with helmet and the atmospheric courtyard bar ing back to the 1200s. By now, can walk round them for a full view is best sampled at L’Insolito. A Gallery, the most radical and active equipment thrown in for a few Lapidarium alongside. You then the landscape is more open, with of the Adriatic seafront. café opened by Andrea Darer on the local arts scene. Recent exhi- extra kunas. The Ski Lift station hit the major crossroads of Cardo occasional green spaces either side in 2009, this terrace spot on a bitions have featured the works of doubles up as a summer attraction Maximus, the north-south Roman and pretty Baroque buildings more Polish off prime main square in central Poreč has Grozaj, whose paintings have even for those not taking part, as thoroughfare, with the Gothic- prominent, former homes of Vene- pljukanci since expanded into a full-blown been shown in Zagreb, , Graz its bar and restaurant are popular tinged Zuccato Palace gallery on tian and Habsburg merchants. At 12 Thin, hand-rolled restaurant where the speciality and Venice, and conceptual artist hangouts. There’s also beach vol- the corner, before passing the the end, Trg Marafor is somewhat pasta perfect for tomato and is pljukanci served with truffles Radomir Damnjanović Damnjan, leyball, sand football and various and top-quality Istrian prosciutto, whose solo shows across Europe other land-based games along- pršut. It’s also great for pizza, the 50 date back to 1958. side. Ski Lift Poreč stays open from seats outdoors ideal for the family ÆÆCardo Maximus (052 887 210) Easter to the middle of November. or a group of travelling companions ÆÆZelena Laguna (091 474 to share round the slices in Try then buy 7714, skiliftporec.com) the sunshine. Istrian wines ÆÆNarodni trg 3 (095 555 5535) 8 Close to the Euphrasian Take in local Basilica on Eufrazijeva ulica, Bac- history along Dive from Brulo chus is wine bar, eaterie and deli- 11 Decumanus to Žontulo catessen all in one, all purveying As arrow straight as can be, as 13 In operation since the authentic but affordable Istrian well as narrow and high-sided early 2000s, the Diving Centre products. Malvazija, muškat and red for much of its length the Roman Poreč offers both instruction and refošk are sold by the glass, allow- thoroughfare of Decumanus is the guided dives to sites around the ing you to sit outside on the rustic spine of Poreč, packed to the gills in area, as far as the Limski kanal and terrace on a pretty open courtyard. summer. Laid out east-west under Rovinj. Beginners can start with Family-made rakija grappas – hon- Emperor Augustus in the first a basic two-hour scuba session, ey-flavoured medica, biska from century AD, Decumanus runs from culminating in a first sea dive, while mistletoe and fig-based smokva – modern Trg Slobode to the former those with slightly more experience may also be sampled. Istrian platters Roman forum of Trg Marafor, a can search for starfish and seafish of smoked hams, cheeses and olives distance of some 350-400 metres. in the shallow waters of Uvala Brulo can be shared among two or four As well as far too many ice-cream on the doorstep. More seasoned people, and there are sardine, sea- parlours and souvenir shops, divers then explore Žontulo, Frižital food and truffle versions too. Decumanus is dotted with several reef and around Sveti Nikola island. Ski Lift ÆÆEufrazijeva 10 (091 404 historical curiosities, starting with Poreč Diving Center Diving Centre Poreč holds a special 0051, bacchus-porec.hr) medieval Peterokutna kula and permit from the Croatian Ministry

Time Out Istria 2019 108 109 2019 Time Out Istria Poreč Top 20

of Culture, meaning that it can take and beachfront lounge bar. The bit of wild partying thrown in for kilometres, it has gradually been the most experienced divers to the seafront venue down by the Zelena good measure. revived, section by section, by wreck of the Coriolanus, a Royal Laguna complex is a summer ÆÆObala Maršala Tita 12 (099 221 1811, local outdoor enthusiasts. Mostly, Navy trawler that sank with 40 men favourite, fun and unpretentious. facebook.com/saintsinnerporec) though, the Parenzana is patron- on 5th May 1945, two days before You’ll find name DJs elsewhere, ised by cyclists and hikers, and the German surrender was signed. here is just about dancing to Cycle the regularly facilitated with improve- TIME OUT CROATIA ÆÆBrulo 4 (052 433 606, mainstream tunes with a whole Parenzana ments such as maps, benches, bike divingcenter-porec.com) bunch of like-minded holiday- 15 Built in 1902, left to rust racks and service stations equipped makers. There’s little by way of after 1935, the Parenzana was a with air pumps and repair kits. In Boogie on heavy security and the cocktail narrow-gauge rail that ran from Tri- September, it stages the three-day the beach makers are as entertaining as the este, winding through the bucolic MTB Parenzana race, one of many 14 If not the best nightspot DJs, spinning drinks and rapping Istrian interior before terminating events in a busy cycling calendar. in Poreč then certainly the most with the customers. Relaxation is at Poreč. In those days, this was all ÆÆparenzana.net accessible and affordable, Saint the name of the game here, with a Italy and Poreč was Parenzo, hence and Sinner is both downtown club the name. Running for over 60 Explore underground lakes 16 Halfway from Poreč UNLOCK THE BEST to Višnjan, the Cave has been a major tourist attraction since opening to the public in 1995. Tours are advertised all over Poreč. You can travel here independently – there’s a car park right outside – OF CROATIA but all visits are guided ones, and take place every 30 minutes, in English among other languages. You’re first led along a pathway 300 metres long before reaching 60 metres deep, where you find under- ground lakes and five otherworldly chambers filled with ancient stalac- tites and stalagmites. In the waters you should see the strange-looking olm, or European cave salamander, RIGHT NEAR, blind and pink, hence its alterna- tive name of the human fish in Croatian. Given its appearance and habitat – it does everything under- water – the olm has been the subject of many a local legend. Tours last 40 RIGHT NOW. minutes. Wear decent shoes, hold on to the railings when negotiating slippery stairs and be prepared for a fair climb back up. ÆÆNova Vas (098 224 350, baredine.com) Find quality seafood in an 17 alleyway tavern You might see the sign ‘Konoba Aba’ if you’re heading along Eufrazijeva – but only if you were looking for it. Tucked down a passageway two paces across, this traditional Croatian tavern DOWNLOAD fills its stone interior and modest slice of terrace with tables, upon THE APP TODAY which hefty portions of squid, For the latest and best shows and gigs, langoustines, white fish and top shopping, eating and drinking, visit seafood pastas are placed. It’s GET IT ON classic Adriatic stuff, blitva greens with almost everything – unless timeout.com/croatia you’re having grilled meat, in which case the chips are decent. Opt for the drinkable house wine and you won’t find a much cheaper Jama Baredine lunch in town. ÆÆMatka Vlačića 2 (052 438 669)

Time Out Istria 2019 110 Poreč Poreč

Sip cocktails in it takes to persuade diners back: Roman ruins fresh toppings, large helpings BEACHES 18 Where once Roman and fair prices. With most of citizens of Parentium strolled, shot the 30-strong pizza selection Beaches are what Poreč is all about. the breeze and perhaps sipped in the 60kn range, you really This is a holiday resort for holiday- wine, today holidaymakers sit can’t go wrong – that quality makers, so you can rent jet skis, go and neck cocktails. Enclosed prosciutto on the Istriana variety wakeboarding, take a banana ride by ancient stone walls and will cost you a few kunas more. or let the kids loose on inflatables. overhanging foliage, Comitivm Note that ‘big’ here means big The main resort is Zelena Laguna provides the perfect setting – bring an appetite or order the south of Poreč, connected by a for evening drinks after a hard smaller version at 45-50kn. Very Restaurant Sv Nikola regular boat service in high season. day’s sightseeing or sunbathing. family-friendly, the experienced Here, some ten kilometres of coast In a lovely garden amid the waitstaff adept at dealing are given over to pleasure – here’s atmospheric ruins of Trg Marafor, with children. each dish to the diner, without point, cream of scampi vellutata where you find the Ski Lift Poreč classic mixed drinks are served, ÆÆZagrebačka 4 (052 453 088) being obtrusive about it – ‘here’s and the Motovun forest with centre for wakeboarding, all kinds all the cocktail favourites include your lamb with tomato concasse, truffles and mushrooms. Service of rides and rentals, courts for flavour of the month in these parts, Pub Spacio asparagus and garlic cream, enjoy!’ is impeccable. beach volleyball and tennis, and Aperol spritz. If there happens to Prime nightspot in the Zelena Lagu- – and the sea bass is deftly placed ÆÆObala Maršala Tita 23 (052 plenty of shops and eateries close at be a summer shower or Bura wind, na holiday complex, the Spacio pro- before you as a work of art. Quality 423 018, svnikola.com) hand. The beaches here tend to be tables inside are surrounded by a vides shots and cocktails to a very wines to suit the surroundings. man-made of pebbles or concrete. decor of marble and shiny wood. much up-for-it young party crowd, ÆÆObala Maršala Tita 15 (052 400 800, Wine Corner While busy – ten hotels and All is a touch more sophisticated with a little live music thrown in. DJs valamar.com/en/porec/restaurant-spinnaker) Opened on the eve of the sum- campsites are dotted all around than most spots around Poreč, keep the dancefloor packed while mer season in 2015, Wine Corner – Zelena Laguna is expansive without being noticeably beer served in three-litre measures Sv Nikola strikes a lovely balance between enough so that it’s rarely crowded more expensive. keep the lads happy. An easy stagger For top-quality fish with a sea bar with quality Istrian reds and in one particular spot. ÆÆDecumanus 15 from at least half-a-dozen hotels. view, you probably can’t top Sv whites, and eatery purveying more For a beach closer to town, but ÆÆZelena Laguna 14 (052 451 789, Nikola – but you’ll also be paying than just nibbles. Much more than still with enough amenities to keep Take in sunset facebook.com/pubspacio) close to top dollar. The fillet here just nibbles, in fact – you can go the you occupied, Brulo sits halfway with dolphins comes in a sublime scampi-and- whole hog and order up a plate of between Zelena Laguna and the 19 One of many compa- Restaurant Spinnaker scallop sauce, the speciality boškarin ox, but most are happy to centre of Poreč. Also close to sever- nies who provide boat trips from Flagship restaurant of the four-star fish panna cotta an outstanding go with a platter of prosciutto and al hotels, it comprises waterfront of Poreč, family-run Victoria Tours Valamar Riviera Hotel, the Spinna- appetiser. If you’re taking the locally sourced cheese and soak in pebbles and rocks (wear flip-flops) offers a more unique excursion. ker is a notch above in every sense: meat route, then the house-style the atmosphere of a quaint side- with plenty of showers and chang- Setting off from Poreč harbour Bacchus Vinoteka decor, presentation, location, ser- steak should be memorable, the street in the Old Town. Owner Toni ing stands, pine trees alongside for at 6pm most evenings, Captain vice and locally sourced ingredients Cardo Maximus pork with just the makes everyone welcome – many shade. The kids can bounce about Bruno steers the Victoria towards from sea and land. It’s one of those right flavouring of Mediterranean here are returning customers. on inflatables or there are ping- Rovinj and, in particular, the BEST OF THE REST evening, though the crowd you’ll fresh, seasonal ingredients. It’s a places where the waiter explains herbs. Soups are another strong ÆÆEufrazijeva 3 (098 163 2227) pong tables and mini golf. Note also mouth of the Limski kanal. Here be schmoozing with will be mostly guesthouse, too, so the welcome is the Diving Center Poreč here, with dolphins come to feed when the Bacchus Vinoteka fellow travellers. Good cocktails. particularly warm, with affordable scuba courses for beginners. shipping lanes are much quieter. A very old-school wine bar/eatery ÆÆObala Maršala Tita 24 (098 276 167, epoca.hr). rooms available. The few bathing areas in town Although dolphin sighting is not this, in the heart of the Old Town, ÆÆVeleniki 15A (052 460 519, itself attract a number of local guaranteed, given Bruno’s vast where the quaffable malvazija and Gostionica Tri Bačve konobadaniela.com) regulars, happy to throw their experience in these waters, it’s a teran are provided by the Rossi They’ve been serving shellfish to towel down on a stretch of concrete more than likely occurrence. The winery at knockdown prices. Suste- local regulars and tourists here Peterokutna kula and relax in the sun for a while. tour also takes in this part of the nance comes in the form of platters, for years, the catch brought in by Calling itself ‘The Key to Poreč’, A 15-minute walk north of town, Istrian coast – Funtana, Vrsar and the Istrian for one to three diners the fishermen in the family then Peterokutna kula stands at also linked by a tourist train in the islands off Poreč before return- probably the wisest choice, though sizzled in the pan and drizzled with the gateway to the Old Town, a summer, Pical is the other major ing to harbour for 10.30pm. you may want to accompany it with oil. There’s fish too, select the one pentagonal tower built in 1447 beach in the vicinity, its smooth ÆÆObala Maršala Tita (098 535 the cheese selection, too. Geared you want from the display platter, with a handful of restaurant tables pebbles and play areas making 415, victoriatours-porec.com) towards tourism and most custom- and a limited choice of meat – but at the top. Most of its many seats it child-friendly. Surrounded by ers seem more than satisfied. mostly you’re here for the clams, are inside, a pleasantly restored beach bars, Pical is also where you Eat out close ÆÆEufrazijeva 10 (091 404 scallops, mussels and scampi. All space, though the panoramic ones find a jet-ski centre with flyboard- to base 0051, bacchus-porec.hr) very no-nonsense and none the are at a premium in high season ing, SUP and banana boats. 20 Running alongside the worse for it. and worth booking around the major hub of tourist hotels north of Epoca ÆÆUlica Mattea Benussia 8 (052 452 hour of sunset. The menu does Poreč, Špadići is where you’ll find the Good music, friendly staff and a 522, facebook.com/Tribacve) nothing adventurous but shouldn’t pretty, Italianate house and terrace sociable buzz set this place apart disappoint either, with classic that contain the friendly eatery Malu from the other harbourside bars. Konoba Daniela Istrian dishes brought to the fore, Poreč. Fine seafood, perfectly grilled Near the tip of the peninsula that Some five kilometres outside Poreč, many involving truffles. This fish, fresh greens and welcoming holds the Old Town, at the start of the Daniela provides a classic rus- might be the place to opt for steak staff engender return custom, the the busy strip of cafés and restau- tic Istrian experience, its arcaded rather than fish, which is probably quality pizzas meaning that it’s a rants, Epoca offers a spacious inte- terrace full of birdsong in spring, better executed elsewhere. great option for young families too. rior with circular wooden bar and its fireplace warming in winter. ÆÆDecumanus 1 (098 977 Wines and olive oils are local and sea views, with wicker chairs and Here, peka dishes are the way to go 9222, kula-porec.com.hr) well sourced, and excellent coffee wooden tables outside. Bruschetta – phone ahead to order succulent finishes off a memorable meal – even and other light bites are on offer, as octopus or meat, slow-cooked for Pizzeria Nono occasionally a free shot of rakija. are granita, frappés and ice cream. several hours under hot coals. Most There are enough pizzerias in Sv. Nikola Island ÆÆŠpadići 6 (091 452 2511) Dancing might break out in the dishes are locally sourced, using Poreč so the Nono knows what

Time Out Istria 2019 112 113 2019 Time Out Istria Advertorial Advertorial

without ever seeing light of day. Tours last 40 minutes and involve a strenuous climb back to the surface – wear suitable footwear. There’s plenty of sporting activity above ground, too. Cyclists and hikers can follow the Parenzana, a Habsburg-era narrow-gauge rail, left abandoned and rediscovered in recent years. Those on two wheels or two legs can pick up the track at certain sections, following a map and taking advantage of the occasional picturesque bench stop to take in the bucolic Istrian panorama. Of course you don’t have to leave Poreč at all, if you don’t want. There is plenty to see and do within the city’s boundaries. Take a relaxed lunch at one of the cafes within the pedestrianised Old Town, sauntering along the 3,000-year-old stone-paved thoroughfare of Decumanus afterwards. Decumanus, the square Trg Marafor, and the ruins of the temples of Neptune and Mars, are delightful evidence of Roman occupation that you can take in, but you can also see 15th-century Gothic villas along the route too. For those looking to learn even more about the history of the city, Poreč’s sixth-century Euphrasian Basilica is a must-visit. It is not only Croatia’s key surviving example of Byzantine art, it is by far the country’s most beautiful. The Basilica was built by Bishop Euphrasius and dedicated to Saint Mauro and the Virgin Mary. It was granted UNESCO status in 1997. Ornate mosaics impressively line some walls and you can wander around several parts of the complex, including the belfry of the neighbouring Bishop’s Palace, from where you’ll have a great view of the city and sea. Walking down by the sea itself is a wonderful way to enjoy Poreč and also take in some local history. The city’s harbour contains reminders of Venetians rule, which ended only in the 18th century, passing on first into the hands of Napoleon and then the Habsburgs. The Venetians built a town wall which stretched from the harbourside Round Tower to the Dive into summer Pentagonal Tower. A short drive outside of the city takes you Make the most of Poreč in summer with our to the small village of Višnjan. The tiny place outdoor essentials. holds global significance thanks to the Višnjan observatory. Though run solely by volunteer academics and students it is responsible for more than 30% of the world’s mapping of asteroids with the potential to hit Earth. POREČ IS a town developed for tourism. Istria that allows visitors to water-ski, wakeboard, and sizes. For something more relaxing, the two A record number of such objects have been doesn’t have any other resort like it, with tens kneeboard, trick-ski and, making use of the of you can glide down half-a-kilometre of Lazy discovered here and since its parent astronomy of thousands flooding into the scores of hotels slalom trail, mono ski. Those just starting out River in a two-person rubber ring or let the water club was founded almost half a century ago, the that do a roaring trade all summer. Many spend can take advantage of the instruction on offer, bounce you around in the large wave pool. The observatory has grown into a world-renowned most of their days on the beach, perhaps wan- and helmets and other equipment are provided kids can also get active up the Rope Pyramid education centre and added several large dering around the Old Town and visiting the for a nominal fee. Around the station, you climbing frame, around the outdoor safe-play telescopes to their arsenal. stand-out sight, the Euphrasian Basilica. can make a day or weekend of it with beach attractions or join in a game of beach volleyball ÆÆSki Lift Poreč, Zelena Laguna (skiliftporec.com) But there’s so much more to do in Poreč, par- volleyball, football and the tennis courts ranged with the grown-ups. ÆÆAqua Colors Poreč, Molindrio 10 (aquacolors.eu) ticularly if you feel like getting active, individu- around the water. Baredine, between Poreč to Višnjan, provides ÆÆDiving Centre Poreč, Brulo 4 (divingcenter-porec.com) ally, as a couple or as a group. Staying in the water, and close to the Zelena an easy, entertaining introduction to caving. ÆÆVictoria Tours, Obala Maršala Tita (victoriatours-porec.com) Your first port of call should be Ski Lift Poreč, Laguna resort, Aqua Colors Poreč is where the With many tours offered around Poreč, you ÆÆBaredine Cave, Nova Vas (baredine.com) near the Zelena Laguna holiday camp. Open whole family can throw themselves down a can join a guided tour in English to negotiate a ÆÆParenzana (parenzana.net) from Easter to the middle of November, Ski whole kilometre of waterslides, 13 different pathway that takes you down to a depth of 60 ÆÆHorse Centre Lanterna, Tar-Vabriga (horse-centar.com) Lift Poreč is essentially an active recreation ones in total. Space Boat, Black Hole, Magicone metres. Here, amid underground lakes, the ÆÆ Go-kart race track station built around a 650-metre-long cableway and Family Rafting, they’re all here, for all ages blind salamander or olm lives up to 60 years ÆÆ Adrenalin park Sky Fox

Time Out Istria 2019 114 115 2019 Time Out Istria Motovun Top 20

Take a spa break Once selling itself 3 on its location in the historic centre of Motovun and Motovun its reassuringly traditional appearance, blending in with the Italianate buildings around this pretty square, the Hotel Kaštel took the wise step of investing in Top 20 a top-quality spa facility. Guests Motovun is one of Istria’s most beautiful and non-guests alike can relax in a Cleopatra’s bath of milk and honey, and best-preserved medieval hilltop enjoy a body scrub and facial in settlements. warm lavender oil, sample wine or truffle therapy treatments or go for a classic hot-stone massage. Those are just a few of the attractions on offer – you are probably just as well MOTOVUN is one of Istria’s most Do the Parenžana opting for a detox package or spa beautiful and best-preserved medi- Revived in modern times as day. There’s a pool, too, with hydro eval hilltop settlements. It’s best 1 a cycling and hiking trail, the jets, the outdoor section open to known for its film festival, which Parenzana was a narrow-gauge non-residents in summer. transforms this otherwise sleepy railway in the Habsburg era. Built ÆÆTrg Andrea Antico 7 (052 681 town into a cultural and party hub in 1902, it ran from Trieste in Italy, 607, hotel-kastel-motovun.hr) for one week every summer, a cross through the Istrian interior before between Sundance and Glastonbury. terminating down the coast at Experience Istria’s Surrounded by truffle-rich forest, Poreč. After the Habsburg Empire Sundance which provides the key ingredient collapsed in 1918, it was overseen 4 The live piano that accom- for top local restaurants here and in by Istria’s new occupiers, Italy, but panied Aki Kaurismäki’s silent nearby Livade, Motovun stands atop fell into disrepair and was closed movie Juha in August 1999 ush- a 277-metre hill overlooking the in 1935. Neglected for decades, ered in a groundbreaking annual Mirna Valley. Sunsets are spectacu- it was revived section by section event that has transformed this lar, as are the views from the main after Croatian independence. hilltop community every summer bar in town, the Montona Gallery. Now it is used for panoramic since. Back then, a few thousand gathered in a renovated theatre

walks and bike rides, the route taking in picturesque Motovun, Buje and Grožnjan around Istria’s hilltop landscape. ÆÆparenzana.net Enjoy a romantic meal In the historic heart of 2 Motovun, with an elevated terrace overlooking the rolling Istrian countryside and an interior of bare brick, candlelight and a blazing fireplace, Pod Voltom is the most prominent restaurant in town but also the most intimate. Martina and Benjamin run a tight ship, in operation since 1991, but the dining experience is friendly and relaxed. The menu is, of course, Istria-focused, truffles with many dishes, maneštra soup, fuži pasta, game and asparagus, while the wines come courtesy of Arman, Kozlović and Matošević. Parenžana ÆÆTrg Josefa Ressela 6 (052 681 Motovun Film Festival 923, facebook.com/podvoltom)

Time Out Istria 2019 116 117 2019 Time Out Istria Motovun Top 20 Motovun Top 20

that had been closed for decades. Slice into Istrian ox for truffles. Every autumn, Now the Motovun Film Festival Now considered a rare deli- truffle hunters and their expert attracts some 40,000 visitors, who 7 cacy, boškarin meat comes dogs scour the woods for these descend upon this little town for from the specific long-horned sought-after treasures, a lucrative five days every July, sleeping at Istrian cattle of the same name. A activity if you know where to a campsite set up for the event, beast of burden for generations, look. If you’re curious to find out sleeping in their own cars, sleep- the boškarin ox was rapidly going how it’s done, you can join an ing wherever they fall. Star guests the way of the dodo when farmers experienced guide from Motovun- such as Vanessa Redgrave and Ken turned to motorised vehicles from based firm Miro Tartufi plus dogs Russell are provided with more the 1960s onwards. By the 1990s, Bela and Nera, and find these comfortable accommodation as there were a few hundred left in precious funghi while exploring some 100 films are screened – the existence. Like the regional revival unspoiled greenery. Miro also best winning the annual Propel- of the wine and olive-oil industries, run a delicatessen in Motovun’s ler award – in two indoor and two so the boškarin has been enjoying historic centre. outdoor locations. The party goes a comeback, farmed for its fine ÆÆKanal 27 (052 681 724, miro-tartufi.com) on non-stop with live music and meat which is now sold across dancing, independent filmmakers Croatia. Naturally, it’s best eaten Sample seasonal mingling with producers, actors in situ, such as at the restaurant Istrian cuisine and festivalgoers. of the Hotel Kaštel in the heart of Truffle hunt 19 First-time visitors look- ÆÆmotovunfilmfestival.com Motovun. Here at the Palladio, ing to dine in Livade may head named after the architect thought straight to the famous Zigante Stroll in protected to have created Sv Stjepan church lasting a day or a whole week, each Explore local truffle restaurant – while Croatians natural forest nearby, you can find starters of requiring at least two participants. history Join the ladies Take the waters in truffle dining and carving out and returning customers come to 5 Just outside Motovun, near boškarin carpaccio or the house ÆÆ098 922 8081, istraparagliding.com 12 With no city museum who lunch At Livade alongside a slice of local history at the same the Konoba Dorjana on the other the natural spa waters of Istarske spread of Kris, a boškarin-truffle to speak of, Motovun hides its 14 Outside Motovun, off 16 Motovun, Istarske time, Zigante is both the most side of the turning from Motovun. toplice, Motovunska šuma is a mix. Boškarin also shows up with Walk the history in strange nooks and the roundabout that leads into toplice are thermal waters used in famous restaurant in the region Also family-run, in this case the small area of forest protected by home-made noodles and rocket, or ancient walls crannies – it’s not even certain Livade, the Konoba Dolina attracts Roman times – coins and jewellery and a significant local industry Basanežes, the Konoba Dorjana is all Natura Histrica, the same body as a meatloaf in the main courses. 10 From the vantage who built the main church, local regulars and the elderly Ital- have been found on the site. Beside based around this forest fungus. In about pairing what’s in season – wild responsible for Brijuni National While you’re here, you may as well point of the sturdy walls enclosing although an expert can quickly ian ladies who frequent the nearby the local landmark of a 85-metre- the late 1990s, a certain Giancarlo mushrooms, asparagus, snails, truf- Park and Učka nature reserve. sample some of the finest desserts Motovun’s historic centre, it is said detect that it’s Venetian. And Istarske toplice spa centre. Both high rock, the Spring of Sv Stjepan Zigante and his dog Diana found fles – with a suitable staple, polenta, The Venetians were the first to in town, namely pears in teran that you can see all four corners what of the locals, who worked the are drawn by the great-value, fresh, provides mineral-rich curative the largest white truffle in history, a pasta, and so on. The steak sprinkled single out this particular pocket wine or the home-made apple pie of Istria. Certainly, the Venetians land for generations, tending the seasonal dishes: in autumn, for waters. Known as the Terme Santo discovery that soon led to the open- with truffles is said to be the best for of woodland in Istria’s verdant with cinnamon. knew what they were doing when hillside vineyards and hunting example, huge plates of meaty Stefano in Habsburg times, this spa ing of a shop, then this restaurant, miles around. The point here is that hinterland, partly because of its ÆÆTrg Andrea Antico 7 (052 681 they built them as defensive fortifi- in the surrounding forests? porcini mushrooms come served has attracted generations of locals then a traditional lodging, then a it’s no fuss, no formality – a homely particular beauty, partly because 607, hotel-kastel-motovun.hr) cations in the late 1200s. Note the The easiest way to explore local with olive oil. Asparagus appears for treatment of rheumatic and large processing and canning fac- dining room is done out with wood, the European oaks so prevalent city gates as you walk alongside, history is to take a wander around in spring. Most times of the year, dermatological conditions. A state- tory. The restaurant itself remains stone and black-and-white photo- here provided such perfect wood Pick up a local created in Gothic or Renaissance Motovun’s main cemetery, set you’ll find heavenly fuži pasta with run health centre in the 1970s, the impressive, albeit pricy, set in a graphs, the service is just the right for shipbuilding and wine barrels. souvenir styles over four centuries. With all at the bottom of ulica Vladimira truffles, either in a cream sauce or site was then developed as a resort beautiful house with outdoor seat- balance of polite yet laid-back. Fed by a tributary of the Mirna, 8 Of the many little boutiques the ramparts intact, and you still Gortana, named after an Istrian without. Sugary kroštule dough- hotel and is now in private hands. ing. Most dishes involve black truf- ÆÆLivade 4 (052 664 093) the forest here also features white and galleries that dot Motovun’s can do a complete circuit, perhaps freedom fighter from the 1920s. nuts should finish things off nicely All kinds of spa detox packages are fles, with rarer white truffles used poplars, hornbeam and lowland historic centre, the Etnobutiga Ča is rewarding yourself with a drink at Stroll around the graves, most – the elegant signore also indulge. now available, as well as weekend between October and December. See how they built ash. From mid-summer until probably the most authentic. This the Caffe Bar Bistro Montona Gal- with a portrait photograph of the ÆÆGradinje 59/1, Livade (052 breaks and teambuilding getaways. ÆÆLivade 7 (052 664 302, the Parenzana autumn, the best time to visit, the little store has been arranged in the lery afterwards. occupant, and you’ll soon see how 664 091, konobadolina.hr) ÆÆSv Stjepana 60 (052 603 restaurantzigante.com) 20 At this museum in bright purple blossoms of clematis same style as a 19th-century peas- so many of the local populace 000, istarske-toplice.hr) Livade especially dedicated to this viticella provide vivid colour ant home, with original furniture. Sleep at a luxury were of peasant stock, with Italian Admire Venetian Go on a truffle hunt legendary Istrian narrow-gauge and attract hosts of swallowtail Although the cupboards and chairs family winery family names. Dates also play architecture See what all the The European oaks that rail line, archive photographs, butterflies. aren’t for sale, the grappas, honeys, 11 Just outside Motovun an important role – the greater 15 Its façade dominating fuss is about 18 comprise the ancient vintage postcards and original truffles, jams, herbs, wines and at Kaldir, the Benvenuti family number of Slavic names after a busy street just off Motovun’s 17 Cornering the market Motovun Forest are prime territory documentation hark back to an Sip a sundowner essential oils are – and are equally of Livio, Albert and Nikola grow the 1950s reflected the post-war panoramic walkway, the Parish era when crossing this distant Once a ‘bistro’ now a money- authentic. There are also all kinds three grape varieties, Istrian population exchange that saw Church of Sv Stjepan is thought to outpost of the Habsburg Empire 6 spinning ‘pizzeria’ the of decorative artefacts carved from malvasia, teran and muscat, on families uproot and head to Italy. have been the work of a follower was a huge adventure. Opened Montona Gallery hasn’t really olive wood, as well as ceramics. south-facing vineyards. This of Venetian architect Andrea in 1902, linking Trieste in changed all that much. It’s still the ÆÆGradizol 33 (052 681 767, sandy soil produces a honey, fruity Zip around Palladio, in the late 1500s or early modern-day Italy to Poreč on the main bar in Motovun, the meeting antique-motovun.com.hr) wine, best sampled when aged in on a Vespa 1600s. It was built on an older Istrian coast, the Parenzana was place for gallery owners, expat the barrel for 18 months to create 13 One of the most church from the early medieval era, a feat of engineering, winding residents, artists and artisans, Paraglide over Muscat or Malvasia San Salvatore. romantic tours on offer in and erected perhaps as early as the 11th alongside thick woodland and a hive of lively chatter until way Motovun But Benvenuti is not only about around Motovun is a day trip on a century. The influential Palladio, past steep inclines. A look at the after midnight. For most visitors, 9 Starting up in May, local out- wine sampling – the villa here is Vespa. Zipping past olive groves responsible for the Palladian that changing colours on the map here though, the Montona Gallery door adventure company Paraglid- hired out to discerning guests, the and vineyards, your guide takes became popular throughout Italy indicates the challenging terrain. means one thing: its terrace, ing Tandem Istra offer four kinds fireplace roaring in winter, the you along roads with the most and then Europe, died in 1580, Photographs depict two main overlooking the historic city walls of soaring jaunts over the Motovun pool surrounded by sunloungers stunning views, stopping at a local but the design for this church is types of passenger: daytrippers and the rolling Istrian landscape countryside. Standard ones take in summer. At least half a dozen konoba for lunch and sampling said to have been his creation. An in Sunday finery, and locals with beyond. Time it right, and you’ll place in tandem with an experi- guests may stay at any one time, truffles and wine on the way. Tours, unknown Venetian artist was also business to take care of, probably at also see a bright orange sunset enced instructor, hence the name, making this the perfect choice for organised by Montona, take place responsible for the painting of the the port of Trieste. The Parenzana slowly melt below the horizon, as but you can choose a basic-level a getaway celebration with friends between April and mid October, Last Supper on display over the closed down in 1935 but the route one glass of finest Istrian Malvasia flight of 15-20 minutes or one of or family, wine essential to the and are open to over-18s holding a altar. The Romanesque-Gothic bell has been revived of late to cater to turns into two. around two hours. For those keen party, of course. valid driver’s licence. tower alongside the church dates Truffle hunt cyclists and hikers. ÆÆTrg Josefa Ressela 2 (052 681 754) to learn more, there are courses ÆÆKaldir 7 (052 691 322, benvenutivina.com) ÆÆ051 681 970, montonatours.com from the 13th century. ÆÆLivade 1 (052 644 150, parenzana.net)

Time Out Istria 2019 118 119 2019 Time Out Istria Grožnjan One of Istria’s most lively medieval hilltop towns, loaded with galleries and studios.

The Parish Church of sts. Vitus, Modestus and Crescentia

enjoying the view; and everywhere you look, there’s a gallery. There’s a perfect little town square and outside the town loggia on balmy, summer evenings are recitals by operatic tenors or jazzers, perform- Hum The smallest town in the ing as part of the Grožnjan Musical Summer. world, unchanged for nearly a millennium. Fonticus City Gallery This public two-floor space is a museum, an outlet for Croatian ENCLOSED by thick, medieval is the main square; to the left is the and international artists. It has a walls, Hum is billed as the small- ludicrously large Church of the rotating agenda of shows. Also, est town in the world. To qualify Exalted and Blessed Virgin Mary under its purview is a collection as a bona fide town, a settlement with its magnificent crenellated of insignia, crests and coats of must have a school, church, post belltower. The consecration chapel arms from German, Croatian and office, town hall and pub. Squeeze of Sv Jeronima in the graveyard Slovenian nobility. in a dozen houses and that’s Hum. houses 12th-century frescoes ÆÆTrg lođe 3. T (052 776 357, tz-groznjan. Traditionally it’s been home to just covered with Glagolitic graffiti. hr/index.php/en/kultura-i-umjetnost/ two families, while the priest is Left is a Lilliputian house with a gradska-galerija-fonticus). also the publican – but things are picturesque loggia. A small gal- changing. As you wander round lery signed ‘Imela’ is the source of Bastia the single, circular street, be care- Hum’s second claim to fame: biska. Under the church tower, this ful not to trip over any building This is mistletoe-flavoured grappa, large, imposing and traditional rubble. People have cottoned on made from the leaves rather than restaurant is the main place to eat to Hum’s charm and slowly the the poisonous berries. It’s either GROŽNJAN IS one of Istria’s pret- What sets Grožnjan apart is that it visiting artists began using the in town. Fabulous, authentic local town is coming to life. As you pass bright green or golden brown tiest medieval hilltop towns, 228 feels loved, alive and cared for. With empty buildings as studios and dishes include the likes of home- through Hum’s massive, metal depending on whether fresh or metres (748 feet) above sea level, two dozen galleries and plenty of by 1965 it was formally declared made sausage, rumpsteak with doors you enter a cave-like ante- dried leaves have been used. with spectacular views: the Adri- studios, it’s a thriving art hub. After a ‘Town of Artists’. Street signs are truffles and twisted pasta ties (fuži) chamber hewn out of the rock. view down into the valley – this house, this speciality consists of atic to the west and the dramatic World War II, this part of Istria was hand-painted ceramics, rather than with wild game. There’s a little bar Above is the town hall. On the Humska Konoba is the perfect setting to share a red wine topped off with warm, landscape of the Mirna Valley to assigned to Tito’s Yugoslavia. Many statemanufactured enamel; the col- with a piano in the back, and a few walls are stone tablets inscribed in The Konoba Hum (052 660 005, bukaleta (drinking jug) of tra- toasted bread liberally sprinkled the east. Istria is rich with these emigrated to Italy. In Grožnjan ours of the shutters are subtle but rooms to rent. ancient Glagolitic, a Slavic script 11am-11pm Sat, Sun) has a ditional supa. Clearly invented with olive oil. ancient, Italianate settlements. only 20 souls remained. Gradually, just right; there are stone seats for ÆÆSvibnja 1 (052 776 370, no website) for which Hum is famous. Ahead covered terrace with a beautiful by a peasant with no food in the ÆÆHum 2, Hum (052 660 005, hum.hr)

Time Out Istria 2019 120 121 2019 Time Out Istria Novigrad and Tar-Vabriga Top 20 Novigrad & Tar-Vabriga Top 30 Located north towards Italy, Novigrad and neighbouring towns Tar and Vabriga are charming Gallerion locations for a relaxing time by the sea. Ride horses through the sea LOCATED NORTH towards Italy, Spoil yourself for dinner 4 Within easy reach of the its compact centre attracting They don’t cram them in at hotels and campsites of Vabriga, daytrippers from over the border, 1 family-run Damir & Ornella. the Horse Centre Lanterna caters Novigrad is neither as posh as Six tables are ranged around a cosy, to visitors with years of riding Rovinj nor as packed as Poreč, but bare-brick interior, a comfortable experience, and children who that’s precisely why this can be a setting for fish and shrimp have never even seen a horse charming location for a relaxing specialties. This truly is from sea to before. The younger ones start time by the sea. The seaward tip of plate, and most of what they create out with socialising sessions its Old Town peninsula has shaded – and each dish is a mini-creation then take modest trots around parks and a waterside walkway, in its own right – is raw. Annually the pen. Older riders follow behind which Novigrad finds room acknowledged as one of the finest guides through woods, meadows for a surprising number of decent dining destinations on the coast, and olive groves, and along the bars, hotels and restaurants. Damir & Ornella is manned by the seafront. Those after a really Across the bay, Tar and Vabriga father and daughter of the same thrilling challenge on horseback are neighbouring communities name, happy to take bookings (052 can also go in for sea riding and popular with holidaymakers. 758 134) rather than disappoint. night riding. ÆÆHorse Centre Lanterna, Tar- Vabriga (horse-centar.com) Dine on fine fish Another culinary must 5 in Novigrad, Konoba Čok specialises in fish and seafood, most notably sea bream, sea perch and sole, lobster, and all Novigrad walls kinds of shellfish including oysters. All is fresh as can be and expertly prepared and tastefully Signposted on focal Velika ulica, presence in the Adriatic from in Novigrad, hands down. The presented. While other family it’s set down a narrow sidestreet the time of Napoleon to the latest attraction is artisanal gin, members run the kitchen, the near the seafront. end of World War I. The two- Istria’s first handmade gin, if you affable Sergio takes care of ÆÆZidine 5, Novigrad (052 758 storey display is filled with please, a combination of Malvazija guests and the wide range of 134, damir-ornella.com) explanations of battles, model wine, juniper berries and spices. Istrian wines on offer. If one of ships, uniforms and weapons. Still trendy enough to appeal to you isn’t feeling particularly Discover maritime Although a private collection, weekending Italians without losing fishy, then your steak will come history this enlightening institution has its young, lively, local character, lathered in delicious truffle 2 The work of photographer/ links with the Croatian Military Vitriol is also a decent daytime sauce. A complimentary grappa designer Sergio Gobbo, who has Museum in Zagreb. spot for coffee, own-recipe cakes usually completes an altogether spent his life researching and ÆÆMlinska ulica 1, Novigrad (098 254 and fruit tarts. Evening cocktail satisfying dining experience. collating material all along the 279, kuk-marine-museum.net) concoctions have a distinct Italian ÆÆSv Antuna, Novigrad (052 757 643) Adriatic coast, Gallerion was flavour (Negroni, Garibaldi). Local opened by Otto van Habsburg in Sample artisanal gin wines are chalked up on a board Have a family day out 2007. As the last Crown Prince Its terrace lapped by the sea, outside, beers include Kriek and A few kilometers outside of Austria-Hungary, the late 3 the Vitriol keeps upping Kilkenny and there are enough hot 6 Novigrad, Istralandia is archduke would have taken a keen the ante even though the setting drinks to fill an entire menu. a large aquapark complex with Novigrad interest in this naval museum, sun, smooth service and quality ÆÆRibarnička 6, Novigrad (052 six pools, including a children’s focused on the Austro-Hungarian cocktails make this the best bar 758 270, vitriolcaffe.com) spray arena, and 15 kinds of slides.

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Kids can try the Black Kamikaze, Feast at a flagship Sample the goods at than 1,000 asteroids have been Family Rafting and, for toddlers, restaurant a boutique winery discovered here. The observatory Crazy Hills. As of 2019, there will 8 Overlooking the marina 9 Just past the bus station also lays on tours, workshops and be a new feature, Space Combo, that this luxury hotel serves, the on the outskirts of town, Moreno viewing sessions on certain nights offering nearly 200 metres of space Restaurant Navigare offers top- Ivančić is a small, family-run of the year, with English-language adventure in a rubberised vehicle notch Istrian cuisine, prepared winery where visitors may drop in explanations provided. with full visual effects. Other in an open kitchen, to guests to sample the goods any day of the ÆÆIstarska 5, Višnjan (052 449 212, astro.hr) attractions include beach football, and non-guests alike. Executive week. No reservation is required. beach volleyball, concerts and all chef Zoran Martić is on a mission The small-batch reds and whites Tuck into cheap kinds of courses and workshops. to prove that the gastronomy here have a slight mineral quality shellfish ÆÆRonki 1, Nova Vas (052 866 of this region can challenge and may be accompanied by fine 11 It’s shellfish all the way 900, istralandia.hr) that of France or Italy, and your Istrian prosciutto. Also available is at Kod Stelia, an affordable local experience here is a memorable rakija, as the firm has also started spot by the side of the road that Party at the beach part of that process. The à la carte producing its own strong, clear leads out of Vabriga for the coast. Close to a complex of camp- menu changes with the seasons, spirits. Everything takes place in Platters of scampi, plates of crab 7 sites and overlooking the sea with local hams, asparagus and convivial sit-down surroundings, and bowls of mussels fly out of the at Mareda, just outside Novigrad, truffles a key feature according with more structured visits, kitchen, having been prepared the Macumba Beach Club provides to availability. Ingredients are including tours of the cellar, on with a tasty sauce, usually al-fresco entertainment day and locally sourced whenever possible offer for groups of six or more. involving tomatoes, wine and night. After a morning coffee, – wild asparagus, mountain ÆÆDomovinskih žrtava 20, Novigrad garlic. Pasta is the most common swim and seafront fun, the grill spinach, fennel, sage, lavender (095 976 8006, ivancic-winery.com) accompaniment, or rice, plus restaurant serves up classic Balkan and wild thyme. the house white. For those after favourites under welcome shade. Fresh high-quality fish, and Gaze at the meat instead, you’ll also in very Sunbathing suits the afternoon, creative dishes such as sea bass heavens good hands here. before early-evening cocktails and carpaccio, buzara Nautica or hefty 10 A short drive from ÆÆRibarska 3, Vabriga (091 251 DJs take over. At some point late veal ispod peke are only some Novigrad, the modest village of 2079, facebook.com/kodstelia) on, it all slowly winds down, only highlights on offer, matched with Višnjan is a popular destination to start up again with a coffee and a excellent reds and whites from thanks to its world-famous Enjoy the match swim the next morning. Istria’s most respected wineries. observatory. Thanks to the lack In its element during ÆÆMareda, Aemonia (098 327 ÆÆSvetog Antona 15, Novigrad (052 600 of light pollution in this part of 12 the 2018 World Cup, 558, macumba.com.hr) 473, nauticahotels.com/gastronomy) inland Istria, some 100 minor Element is a party bar with Galerija Rigo planets, two comets and more multiple screens and late-opening

hours so celebrations can go on throughout the year. cutting-edge art, some challenging Try windsurfing, into the night. More a café/bar ÆÆVeliki trg 8A, Novigrad (052 726 (the strange figurines of Denis paragliding or during the week, at weekends, 582, muzej-lapidarium.hr) Krašković, the graphic images 17 parasailing Element attracts a young local of passion by Olja Grubić), some Round the corner from the crowd for DJs and occasional live Enjoy a half- iconic (the photos of John & Novigrad headland, Belistra water- music in a loungey atmosphere. century of culinary Yoko displayed in the summer of sports centre offers all kinds of Aperol Spritz is the drink du choix, 14 tradition 2017, the Daniel Spoerri collages active fun on and off the coast. You though plenty of beers will be sunk Approaching its 50th anniversary, of 2018). The building itself is can climb 200 metres above the by the time anyone’s thinking this third-generation, family-run worth further investigation, once sea parasailing, jet-ski on a top-of- about going home. classic has been around since the the home of the Rigo nobility, the-range Yamaha WaveRunner ÆÆProlaz Venecije 2, Novigrad (099 214 start of modern Istrian tourism. its frontage a prime example of or take the whole family on a 6882, facebook.com/Element.Novigrad) Sidro (‘Anchor’) only uses fish Venetian Baroque. banana-boat ride. Courses include from the immediate vicinity, ÆÆVeliki trg 8A, Novigrad (052 726 582, windsurfing, kitesurfing and SUP, Admire history heavy on shellfish and sole as the muzej-lapidarium.hr/c/rigo-en) instructed by a Croatian champion, carved in stone sea is shallower here. It’s right and there are also canoes and 13 Designed by the award- on the fishermen’s marina and Find a slice of wakeboards to hire. winning architects Saša Rendić locals show up to eat. For the best Americana ÆÆLivada 1, Novigrad (091 522 8810, belistra.hr) and Iris Turato, the Museum Lapi- shellfish, come in November. The 16 A sister establishment darium in the heart of Novigrad fish platter Noštromo is a solid tip: to the original venue in Zagreb, Devour hearty offers a prime example of how to white fish, squid, grilled scampi, Booze & Blues has set up at the dishes in an design a contemporary, site-spe- potatoes and spinach. Same goes Hotel Nautica at Novigrad marina, 18 authentic cific museum in a historic centre. for the lobster with tagliatelle, offering the sounds and flavours German Biergarten Along with early medieval stone which runs to 300kn. There’s a from across the Atlantic. The The bedrock of this cheery monuments, the museum shows a nautical interior and terrace – music, occasionally provided live operation, approaching its 40th key example of pre-Romanesque ignore the neon sign and pictures on stage by an act from around the anniversary, is the marriage architecture: the Carolingian-style of the food. region, brings a little jazz, blues or between Hans from the Rhineland vaulted altar canopy, the so-called ÆÆMandrać 5, Novigrad (052 757 soul to the party, complemented and Ines from Tar-Vabriga. The Mauritius Ciborium, from the 601, sidro-ancora.com) by similarly themed décor result? Ines & Hans, a convivial eighth century. Here, early Chris- courtesy Mario Waldgoni. There’s beer garden, restaurant and bed tian symbols can be discerned, Catch a a Stateside touch to the menu too, & breakfast in one. Here you’ll be delicately carved intertwining challenging though it’s no coincidence that the eating meat, meat and more meat, patterns and an array of animals 15 exhibition Adriatic is alongside, lapping the all washed down with half-litres and mythical beasts. The museum Part of the Museum Lapidarium popular terrace. of pure golden German beer. You Damir & Ornella also hosts multimedia and mul- complex, the Rigo Gallery stages ÆÆSv Anton 15, Novigrad (052 600 can choose from the regular menu tidisciplinary cultural events exhibitions of contemporary and 456, booze-and-blues.com) or opt for the daily special, often

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specially smoked, such as spare Dine at an Istrian Church dates back to the early scampi delicious when grilled Istria. Classic regional finger food squid and octopus are sourced ribs on Saturdays, and pulled tavern 50 years Christian period – or, at least, pre- or prepared na buzaru in wine. is also available, cheeses, olives and from the Kvarner Bay, the John pork on Fridays. Wednesdays, it’s 20 in the business Carolingian. Later rebuilds, several The Beletić family would even air-dried prosciutto. The building Dory fish from nearby waters and suckling pig, a house speciality. Opened in 1964, the prices (and cur- of them, took place between the be happy to prepare your fish itself dates back to the 1700s, its the boškarin meat from producers Sausage also features heavily, of rencies) may have changed at the 15th and 18th centuries, hence ispod peke, slow-cooked under atmospheric façade lending an a short drive away inland. Here course. All takes place on a sun- Konoba Teran, but not the relation the Baroque flourishes such as hot embers, provided they are Italianate touch to proceedings. the steak comes with black truffles dappled terrace, plentiful trees to everyday affordability, whatever the main altar and sacral pictures. given fair warning. Warm bread ÆÆPalazzo Rigo, Velika ulica 5, Novigrad and Istrian prosciutto, although offering plentiful shade. the decade. Right in the heart of Tar, But look hard enough and you and the family’s own-made olive (091 577 2874, rigo-winebar.com) you can also order beef cheeks ÆÆPorečka 5A, Tar (052 443 129, ines-hans.de) this classic spot knows just what to can still see traces from more oil from their Al Torcio mill is the in teran wine. do with meat and knows just what than a thousand years ago, such traditional appetiser to every meal. Explore a British ÆÆZidine 10 (052 255 555, gattonero.eu) Sip then dip to do with fish. Grilled steak with as the window niches in the north They also run the affordable Torci warship Right by the jetty mushrooms exudes tradition while wall. Sadly the pre-Romanesque 18 B&B a few doors down from 24 Sunk off the coast Lungomare 19 that juts out just sea bream or bass might come with crypt, one of the few in Croatia, this restaurant. of Novigrad with days of World The sea-facing where Novigrad runs out of land, djuvec rice or the regular blitva is out of bounds – it contains ÆÆBolnička ulica 8, Novigrad (098 War II coming to an end, the HMS 28 Lungomare, close to Waikiki’s Beach Bar allows you to greens. Do ask for a basket of home- ecclesiastical artefacts from the 420 314, facebook.com/Konoba-Kod- Coriolanus served in North Africa Karpinjan beach, does an excellent sink summer cocktails, slink down made bread, and perhaps a table by early medieval era. Kristijana-116035611820156) before taking part in suspected job with sea bass, bream and tuna, the metal staircase into the sea, the fireplace on chillier evenings. ÆÆVeliki trg, Novigrad spying activities in this part of as well as steak, but you shouldn’t swim off the effects then climb Framed football shirts and pennants Sink Istrian Malvazija Istria. In May 1945, it hit a mine be disappointed if you opt for the back up for more. By day, you might add a little colour to the bare brick Eat well at wallet- in 18th-century and sank. Now upright on the gnocchi with porcini mushrooms want to stick to beer, especially and timeless rustic appearance. friendly prices 23 surroundings seabed about 25 metres deep, it and speck ham. The pizzas are as you can easily get involved in a ÆÆIstarska 35, Novigrad (098 167 3825, 22 Popular with budget Its casual terrace occupying a small is a popular dive site. A club such also top-notch, with more variety game of beach volleyball and may facebook.com/konobaTeranIstra) visitors, the Konoba kod Kristijana square of pavement in a narrow as Zeus Faber in Lanterna, facing than you’ll find elsewhere. Not the need liquid sustenance before is a local eatery where Istrian passageway in Novigrad’s historic Novigrad from across the Mirna cheapest, but you’re paying for the another plunge into the Adriatic. A Search for favourites are served in satisfying centre, the Rigo Wine Bar is both estuary, can take you out to the view as well as the quality of fare. late-morning coffee here also does traces of early portions. And you needn’t just tasteful and authentic. It also wreck and also rent out equipment. ÆÆKarpinjanska (052 649 331, the trick as you treat your hangover 21 Christianity bulk out on pasta –the fish and serves top-notch Cattunar wines Beginners may explore the lungomare-novigrad.com) to the soothing lap of the waves. Known to locals as simply the Waikiki’s Beach shellfish are fresh, the Kvarner from Brtonigla in the terroir of west shallower waters around Lanterna, ÆÆGradska vrata 15, Novigrad ‘Cathedral’, the St Pelagius Parish with its wealth of flora and fauna. Marina ÆÆSC Valeta, Lanterna, Tar-Vabriga Restaurant (052 405 045, zeus-faber.com) 29 Novigrad Marina as in Marina Gaši, the Kod Marice pioneering chef who steers the Now in business kitchen at this bright spot close 25 more than 40 years, to Novigrad’s waterfront and, Kod Marice relies on the zmorac indeed, marina. A visit here is a to bring in that day’s catch, the culinary adventure, diners placing fishing boat providing the prawns, their trust in Marina’s balancing mussels, scallops and scampi instincts. Before you enter, you that make the seafood risotto so should know that every dish of the popular here, the John Dory before half-dozen you’ll be served has it’s grilled or baked to perfection, seafood at its centre – and a lot of it and the squid you’ll delight in. will be raw. And nearly all of it, the There’s meat, too, hopefully raw scampi on brioche with picked suckling pig on the day of your visit. wild asparagus, the steamed sea Desserts go way beyond the basic bass with garlic, oil and peperon- provision of ice cream, and the cino potato, will be a miniature tri- wine has been well chosen. umph. Desserts are equally petite ÆÆUlica Murve 3B (052 757 217, and bursting with invention. Let kodmarice.business.site) your waiter also guide you on wine, Istrian of top quality. Konoba Amfora ÆÆSvetog Antona 38 (098 969 0492, Right on the Novigrad facebook.com/MarinaRestaurantNovigrad) 26 Marina, the Konoba Amfora allows you to tuck into Restoran Mandrač fresh fish and shellfish while taking The walls at the in a stunning sunset across the bay. 30 back of the 50-year- Find a table lapped by the sea, ask old Mandrač are covered in the waiter what’s fresh that day and gastronomic awards and even let the evening take its course. though there are seats for 215 ÆÆRibarnička 12 (052 726 298) diners, you should reserve in summer. Framed against the Konoba Gatto Nero 600-year-old city walls, fresh In operation since fish and grilled meats are well 27 1982, the Black Cat presented on warmed plates, Tavern is tucked away down a garnished according to the friendly little alleyway only a few steps advice offered by the waiter. The Church of St. Pelagius and St. Maximus from the sea, and well worth the ÆÆUlica Mandrač 6 (052 757 120, trouble of finding. The scampi, facebook.com/RestaurantMandrac)

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and intimacy – it’s popular with BEST OF THE REST BEACHES couples, who may enjoy a quieter time here without children running Tri Palme Vecchio Mulino Novigrad is built around a bay around. Beach bars open in season. From late March until late Just in from the waterfront, this and two headlands, its historic In the other direction, close to the October, the Tri Palme provides large, smart house contains a centre a few steps away from the town centre, Rivarela is less beach, honest-to-goodness Istrian restaurant of similar character, waterfront. more a paved strip for sunbathing cuisine on a sunny terrace near brave enough to offer a truly The most popular beach, Karpin- and relaxation, but its proximity the marina. The fish soup is full extensive menu – and carry most jan, is always a hive of activity all to everything in Novigrad means of flavour and goodness, the off most dishes to everyone’s summer, surrounded by bars, eater- that many come down here after risotto and pasta dishes as good as satisfaction. If you’re after a decent ies and sports courts for tennis, bas- work in the summer months. Hold you’ll find at this price anywhere plate of calamari, you’ll find it ketball and five-a-side football. The on to the hand railings as you go in Novigrad. A penchant for here. If you’ve a hankering for a small pebbles and shallow water down into the water – the sea here old-school rock attracts seen- hunk of soft, tender meat, they here mean that it’s ideal for children, can be quite wild. It sits alongside it-all regulars among the many cook it here. Pizza? No problem, and you can rent sun loungers and the City Beach, similar in character tourists and July 26 is Mick you’ll have few complaints about umbrellas and make a whole day of and equally close to the bars and Jagger Day, celebrated here as if it the ones served here. Multi- it here. To get to it, walk ten minutes restaurants in town, meaning you were Christmas. lingual and swift staff help things from the marina round the bay. can enjoy a couple of hours of bath- ÆÆKarpinjanska 14 (052 757 081, along nicely. Further up, Pineta is more rough ing before heading straight over to facebook.com/TriPalmeNovigrad) ÆÆMlinska 8 (052 647 451) and ready, with pine trees for shade lunch or an evening meal.

Time Out Istria 2019 128 Umag & Savudrija Top 20

2017 and The Prodigy. The biggest names in the region’s rap and electronic rhythm scene can also be expected, , Umag & Krankšvester and Ian F the ones to kick ass in 2018. Dates for 2019, the third annual Sea Star, are May 24-25, with parties either side. Early bird tickets start from €39. Savudrija ÆÆStella Maris, Umag (seastarfestival.com) Park and ride in Umag Similar to major European 6 capitals, Umag operates a Top 20 park and ride service, allowing you pick up and drop back a short-hire The host of the Croatia Open, Umag dates to Roman bike at six points around town. Between 6am and midnight, visi- times. Little brother Savudrija is an unspoiled tors can take a standard bicycle for fishing village where Croatians relax. a minimum of 18kn for 1hr or 42kn for 24hrs. There’s also a deposit of 300kn, paid back onto your card when you return the bike in time. The service allows you to explore the Umag seafront or pine-lined trails JUTTING OUT into the Gulf of around the Stella Maris lagoon. Trieste, close to the border with Sea Star Festival ÆÆistriaexperience.com/en/park-and-ride-umag Slovenia, north-west Istria is known for its sporting activities. Bask in a The main resort town of Umag Let your hair down CUJ or Monte Rosso from up the Slice and golf tuition is given from bookended by opening and panoramic spa stages Croatia’s major annual at a live venue road in Umag. beginners upwards. closing parties, Sea Star attracts 7 Looking out over sea, sunset tennis tournament while there’s 2 For an honest night of ÆÆUmaška ulica 12, Lovrečica (052 ÆÆAlberi 300, Savudrija (052 707 80,000 festivalgoers to the Stella and the distant tip of Slovenia on an 18-hole golf course just in from chugging back beers and letting a 756 293, restaurant-badi.com) 100, golf-adriatic.com) Maris resort site in Umag. Bargain the horizon, the Carolea spa at the the coast at . Round few guitar-driven rock tunes blast early-bird prices boost ticket Kempinski Hotel Adriatic outside the headland, up-and-coming away for an hour or so, Umag’s Play a full 18 holes Catch 70 acts on seven sales even before any names are Savudrija calls itself an ‘energy Savudrija attracts windsurfers, American Bar is your place. A from Vineyard to stages at Sea Star confirmed – 2018 saw the likes of clinic’. Its job is to relax and rejuve- the cape guarded by the oldest local institution opened in the 4 Pines 5 Over two days in May, Paul van Dyk and Robin Schulz, nate. The catalogue of massages lighthouse on the Adriatic. A 1990s, with a slightly retro feel, While Spain is scattered with growing number of visitors are the American Bar eschews the scores of golf courses, Croatia attracted to this wilder coastline, loungey, laid-back beats found is more limited with what it served by an ever-improving hotel nearby along the coast for a bit of can do to provide golfers with stock and range of restaurants. twelve-bar blues between the Park the full 18-hole experience. Punta and Umag’s football ground, The exception is right up here Sleep at the oldest on Savudrijska ulica. As the agenda in Savudrija. Attached to the lighthouse in is dominated by tribute bands – Kempinski Hotel Adriatic, Golf 1 the Adriatic Zep, Oasis, Queen – you’ll know all Adriatic is a challenging yet Rented out by the week, all year the words and be singing along by jaw-droppingly picturesque round – €700 for four in late the time the third beer kicks in. course designed by Diethard September must be a bargain – ÆÆSavudrijska ulica, Umag (095 904 8583, Fahrenleitner and Barbara Savudrija Lighthouse stands at facebook.com/pg/americanbar.umag) Eisserer of Tyrol-based Golf Croatia’s most westerly point. As Art Landscape. As opposed to the inscription along the base says, Splash out on imposing an American-style golf it was partly sponsored by Francis exquisite seafood design on a European landscape, I of Austria during the Napoleonic 3 Since 1986, the Badurina- these graduates of the University era – the last Holy Roman Emperor Badi family has been serving of Natural Resources in Vienna was in attendance when the discerning diners from around have created courses around lighthouse was first lit in 1818. Central Europe, who flock to their Central Europe that factor in Originally fuelled by coal gas, seafood restaurant in the pretty natural features and ecology. making it the first of its kind, the little maritime community of The par 72 Golf Adriatic blends lighthouse increased in size from Lovrečica just outside Umag. in with the scenery, so holes 19 metres to 29 in the late 1800s. Known for its carpaccios – queen such as Three Oaks, Romanic Converted into a unique lodging scallops with garlic mousse, for Church and Sea View are named for up to four people in 2000, example – the Badi concocts an with the views in mind. The this icon of Savudrija still flashes outstanding house buzara for first tee, Vineyard, sets the tone automatically out to sea – and it two, lobster, scampi and pilgrim with a perfect vista of the Gulf of can still be seen from Opicina just scallops gently cooked in a white- . The 19th hole hasn’t been outside Trieste. wine sauce. To accompany, choose forgotten either, there are Istrian Kempinski Hotel golf courseXXX ÆÆplovput.hr a local wine, which means to say specialities at the Restaurant

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of Contemporary Art of Istria in the TV screen set up inside, staff set off and race across an azure Explore reefs in Pula, there’s nothing else like it. straining to catch the score as the Adriatic. Such is the Istrian the The agenda constantly changes at place jumps with excitement. Regatta, which usually takes place 18 Even novice divers can this intimate apartment space in No wonder so many guests at the over the first weekend in June, enjoy the diverse sites offered by a classic stone building in Umag’s Kempinski break up their routine setting out from the seafront at the Gulf of Piran, which separates Old Town – late November 2018 luxury for a spot of unadorned Umag. After the inauguration the coast off Savudrija from saw the opening of Istrajnost, hospitality. event at the ACI Marina on Slovenia. From the Subaquatic featuring the cyanotype-treated ÆÆCrveni Vrh 15A (052 737 004, the Friday, the boats gather at dive centre in Umag, a boat photography of Drago Vejnović. pizzerialaura.business.site) Umag harbour at 11am the next takes you round the headland The gallery is found on the narrow day before the first stage down to the reefs where the coastline street leading from the Umag City Tour Umag’s the coast to Rovinj. Spectators suddenly descends to a depth of Museum to Trg Venecije and Trg oldest building standing high up at the Park Punta 20 metres. With near guaranteed slobode, sometimes also referred 15 Overlooking the edge of can then watch competitors veer excellent visibility, you should be to as Ribarska. the peninsula that holds in Umag’s south, on their journey towards able to spot lobsters, conger eels ÆÆMarino Bembo 7A, Umag (098 historic centre, the Bishop’s Tower the finishing point of Pula on the and scorpion fish, as well as all 366 248, facebook.com/Galerija- dates back to the late 1300s, when Sunday. 2018 saw the event’s 70th kinds of bright fish and crabs. For Marin-298164147298613) the Genoese were a constant threat. anniversary celebrated in real children and absolute beginners, Constructed as a fortress than style with 113 participants racing there’s a site right in front of the Tuck into converted into a more habitable in 34 boats. dive centre at Stella Maris, where perfect pizza property in the 1800s, this doughty even at a depth of five metres 14 Long before the look-out became the Umag Take the family on sea stars, seahorses and crabs Kempinski Hotel took up half the City Museum in 1976. Thanks a real adventure can be spotted. headland around Crveni Vrh with to the acquisition of a private 17 The Jangalooz ÆÆSavudrijska cesta (052 663 a five-star spa resort hotel, golf archaeological collection 20 years Adventure Park means active 220, subaquatic.info) course and all, the Pizzeria Laura later, this is now a worthwhile, two- recreation for all the family, from was serving quality pizzas onto storey attraction with a scattering April to October, in the welcome Dine in hidden classic green-checked tabletops. of Roman and maritime finds on shade of pine forest by the bucolic greenery It was also luxuriating in one of the display and occasional temporary campsite at Stella Maris in Umag. 19 Halfway between ATP Plava Laguna Croatia Open Umag finest sea views in all Croatia, no exhibitions. Most of all, though, Kids from as young as three can Umag and Savudrija, Zambratija idle boast, one that it still enjoys this square-shaped redoubt gives join in, clambering up climbing is one of those coastal spots you despite all the upscale activity the visitor a real sense of Umag’s frames set at yellow level. Degrees can drive past without noticing available fills a thick brochure, See the world’s a few dinars to ride the Katoro Discover the a kilometre or so west. Some 30 attraction to passing pirates of yore of difficulty go right up to red, the the attractions that entice and includes hot-stone, four-hand top tennis stars Express. The Umag tourist train sunken town types are offered, everyone’s – and its vulnerability. elevated rope walkway for ten tourists to overlook the bigger energizing (with two masseurs), 9 Taking place over ten takes 30 minutes to run its course 12 of Sipar favourite variety, though judging ÆÆTrg sv Martina 1 (052 720 386) year olds and over, but the only resorts in its favour. Without warm-oil and Chinese-healing. days in the heat of July, the Plava and costs 20kn. It’s hard to imagine now, given by the top-notch seafood that sits the bravest of the brave tackle the noticing, in fact, in greenery There are hammams, too –queen’s, Laguna Croatia Open is one of ÆÆtamar-umag.hr the constant holiday buzz of atop enticing plates of spaghetti, Watch a classic Janga Jump, a free fall from a tower tucked in from the coast, the king’s, Turkish, Moroccan and the most distinctive on the ATP Umag compared with this a maritime choice pizza-wise regatta 12 metres high, the Swiss-made Restoran Antonia. The menu royal – or you can hire your own pri- circuit. Set at the Goran Ivanišević Feast at Croatia’s silent archaeological park four wouldn’t be a bad idea. On big 16 There’s something Saferoller belay system meaning here is simple but sufficient – vate spa studio for two hours. The tennis stadium at Stella Maris, furthest tip kilometres north, but Sipar was football nights, such as during quite magnificent about seeing that safety is assured. you can splash out on lobster, complex is open to non-residents, backdropped by the Adriatic, the 11 Trace a line on the once a thriving community the 2018 World Cup, attention scores of yachts, pristine sails ÆÆCamping Stella Maris, Umag (098 try the fish-and-thyme ravioli or too, with plenty of packages to Croatia Open also offers a full party map from the most southerly tip in Roman times. In fact, its wanders from the Adriatic to billowing in the wind, about to 901 1194, jangalooz.com) split a fish platter between you. choose from. agenda, with free admission to see of Croatia, past Dubrovnik, then destruction, during battles Everything, excepting the ever- ÆÆAlberi 300A, Savudrija (052 707 the country’s top singers and jazz move your finger all the way up, between Croatia and Venetians in exclusive lobster, is affordable 080, kempinski.com/en/istria/ musicians. Due to be staged for past 2,000 islands, right to its the late 800s, allowed nearby Umag and those tired of the holiday hotel-adriatic/luxury-spa) the 30th time in 2019, the event most north-westerly point, and to develop. Visit here in low tide, crowds of Umag will enjoy taking attracts some 100,000 visitors this is where you arrive – a pretty and you see the walls and stumps of their time over a meal amid Play beach volleyball from across Central Europe who marina overlooked by a modern- buildings that made up the houses, birdsong. Closed on Wednesdays. then sink cocktails also tuck into Istrian specialities at looking restaurant, facing Italy workshops, tower and warehouses ÆÆCrvene uvala ulica 16, Zambratija (052 8 Occupying an extensive 30 outlets around the site. Dates for beyond. This is Savudrija and of this waterfront settlement. At 759 565, restoran-antonia.com) stretch of greenery and beach on a 2019 are July 12-21. this is the St Andrea restaurant. the Umag City Museum in town, little headland jutting out south of ÆÆATP Goran Ivanišević Stadion, Savudrijska And this is where you savour there’s a display of some of the tools Let the kids Umag town centre, the summer- cesta, Umag (052 719 125, croatiaopen.hr) fine fresh fish, served on pristine and ceramics discovered here, go wild at a only Afrika Beach Bar offers fun for white tablecloths by waitstaff in and the museum can also lay on a 20 water park younger ones by day and grown- Ride the train smart waistcoasts. Not, it’s not the guided tour of the Sipar site. At Umag’s lagoon resort of Stella ups after dark. Open for coffee and to Polynesia height of A-list luxury as you might Maris and over on Camp Umag, a bracing dip from 9am, the ABB 10 If you’re staying at experience in Dubrovnik, but it’s Take in some the Wibit aquapark has been offer- warms up in the early afternoon for one of Umag’s out-of-town resort quality, nonetheless, and a much challenging art ing waterborne family fun for 15 beach volleyball and all kinds of hotels or campsites, one way more informal experience, given 13 Founded by conceptual summers. Floating atop safe, shal- seaside activity. After a rewarding to nip around the seafront is to the relaxed terrace out front with artist Slavica Marin in 1997, the low seawater are a tower, a slide, fill of grilled meat, ćevapi, say, as take the tourist train that shut- nothing but sea, sky and boats Marin Gallery has been showcasing a climbing game, a trampoline the sun sinks so do the beers, plus tles every 45 minutes all seven to distract your attention from the likes of Edo Murtić, Andres and a water catapult, all close to cocktails, perhaps accompanied kilometres to the beach area of your plate. Don’t forget to linger Serrano and Bruce Nauman the beach so parents can keep an by a live band. It all runs until 2am, Polinezija and back. The service, over dessert – this family has 30 over the last 20 years or more. eye on everything while sunbath- when everything packs up until the actually a a slow-moving motor- years’ experience of running the Slavica’s hunger to attract some ing. There’s always a lifeguard coffee machine sparks into action ised vehicle dressed up to look place, and will suggest what’s of the world’s most sought-after on hand in any case. Admission the next morning. like a , harks back to good that day. contemporary artists has made is by the hour, half-day, day or ÆÆMoela (091 896 2696, facebook. the earliest days of mass tourism ÆÆLuka 5C, Savudrija (098 334 her gallery unique in the region – Plava Laguna outdoor pool Aquapark even the week. com/afrikabeachbar) here when holidaymakers paid 651, restoransavudrija.com) with the exception of the Museum ÆÆaquapark-umag.com

Time Out Istria 2019 132 133 2019 Time Out Istria Advertorial Advertorial UMAG

Croatia’s tennis capital Umag is famous for hosting Croatia's premier tennis tournament, the Plava Laguna ATP Croatia Open. Taking place right in the Stella The coast with the most Maris Resort, thousands of visitors flock to The seaside resorts of Umag and Poreč provide the perfect the resort and stay in the premium hotels, Mediterranean escape. Find your Istrian idyll with Plava Laguna. apartments, suites and luxurious villas placed within pretty, tree-lined boulevards just metres away from pine-shaded beaches. But Umag offers more than just spectator sports. Visitors take advantage of the tennis facilities available at the resort and at the Umag Tennis Academy, booking lessons with pros or simply playing among themselves. Active Umag Other activities include windsurfing, volleyball and diving. Cycling and jogging are popular pastimes which you can pursue at your own pace with 40 km of the Umag Riviera to explore, including a cycling and running path that starts in the centre and leads out to the magical Savudrija Lighthouse. Umag is a town where you'll never be stuck for things to do. City breakers Outside of its active appeal, guests enjoy POREČ spending their downtime strolling Umag’s charmingly Italianate Old Town, its seaside promenade full of cute cafés and restaurants Culture trip with views across the sea. The Church of the Located in the middle of Istria's west coast, Assumption of Mary and St Peregrine on the Poreč offers some of the region's most town's main square is a must-see and for those impressive historical sights, stunning natural wishing to dig a little deeper into Istrian history beauty and everything you could want from a and culture, Umag offers a museum and several family holiday. In particular, the jaw-dropping independent art galleries. Younger visitors sixth-century Euphrasian Basilica is the most always enjoy the town’s Aquarium. important surviving example of Byzantine art THE SEASIDE RESORTS of Umag and Poreč in Croatia, the walls shimmering with gold-gilt provide the perfect Mediterranean escape and and mother of pearl mosaics that still reflect the deliver once in a lifetime moments, every day. light as brightly as when they were first made For an unforgettable stay, choose one of their (if you enjoy mosaics you should also catch the resorts, campsites, apartments and hotels – one located in the former Bishop's Palace). You inspiring locations are the heart of the Plava can climb the complex’s belfry for views of the Laguna experience. Adriatic’s wide, blue e xpanse. Whether you're staying in one of the 5-star hotels or 2-star apartments, Plava Laguna's Wondrous wildlife high standards of service are reflected in Just outside the town, the Baredine Cave is a every moment of your stay. Dive into saltwater spectacular series of underground lakes and pools, enjoy your favourite ice cream, feel the chambers, filled with naturally sculpted sta- excitement of paragliding over the Adriatic lactites and stalagmites. The expanse of pebble or dine luxuriously with friends below the and rocky beaches around Plava Laguna’s Zele- stars. Plava Laguna's vacation playgrounds na Resort offer a rugged, dramatic beauty with and friendly, attentive staff are here to make crystal-clear waters for bathing. Walkways fol- sure every day of your vacation is a happy one. low the coast to both sides of town, some located In particular, Poreč and Umag are two Istrian near Plava Laguna sites. treasures that shouldn’t be missed while visiting the peninsula. Day-trippers Beautiful beaches, fabulous nightlife and From Poreč, you can go anywhere in Istria. great food and wine are a given, but there are Only two hours from Venice by boat, it’s also also beguiling stone towns, ecclesiastical an easy hop over to Italy and a great place to attractions and wildlife to enjoy, so which to embark on a day trip. But Poreč offers enough choose? Whether you’re after a fun holiday with to keep anyone occupied by its marvellous family, a romantic honeymoon or an action- beaches, food and ancient attractions - all packed weekender, there's sure to be an Istrian within easy reach from over a dozen Plava getaway to suit you. Not sure where to go? Laguna properties. Discover your Istrian idyll with Plava Laguna. Discover more at plavalaguna.com

Time Out Istria 2019 134 135 2019 Time Out Istria Buje & Brtonigla Top 20

and white hues, the stalagmites rising to significant heights. Guided visits last 30 minutes. After your visit, you can pop into the Buje & Restoran Agroturizam Sterle next door for lunch – the restaurant not only looks after the running of the cave but keeps its Barrique wine barrels cool down there. Brtonigla ÆÆStancija Drušković 20, Brtonigla (052 774 313, agroturizamsterle.hr/en/spilja-en.html) See how generations of Istrians lived Top 20 4 If the Buje Ethnographic Brtonigla is a well-preserved village and a renowned Museum is anything to go by, rural life in this part of Istria was gastro-enclave. Buje is home to Venetian palaces extremely tough. Over four floors and medieval architecture. done out to look like a typical peasant’s house, this collection of nearly 200 exhibits shows the tools, Buje & Brtonigla Indulge in luxury furniture and household items that Rolling hills, bucolic at San Rocco a Buje local would have considered 1 vineyards and olive groves 2 Its gourmet restaurant part of daily life a century or more typify this classic expanse of almost certainly the best in ago. An olive-oil press and forge sit north-west Istria, tucked inside the Istria, perhaps even Croatia, San in the basement, while the kitchen Slovenian border. Overlooking the Rocco is also a heritage hotel with above is not only functional but surroundings, elevated Buje is the personalised treatments at its spa communal, for here the family largest and most significant town centre, a large outdoor pool and would sit by the fireplace. A here, then Brtonigla, just south 14 luxurious rooms, some with a weaver’s loom also features, of it. With such natural riches at hydro massage bath. Truffle, game as well as chests where clothes their disposal, a new generation and fresh-fish dishes are prepared and precious items were kept. of ambitious, hard-working locals with San Rocco’s own extra virgin Occasional temporary exhibitions and an Italian heritage, this area olive oil – the seasonal dégustation relate to the ethnographic and has become a renowned gastro- menu is the way to go, and if you’re anthropological subject matter. enclave. San Rocco is a classic here in summer, you get to dine by ÆÆTrg Josipa Broza Tita 6, Buje (052 772 023) case in point. In between the two the pool. Accompanying wines are communities, Konoba Morgan is a well chosen, comprising a selection tucked-away culinary gem Italians of some 200 labels. The restaurant flock to at weekends. is also open to non-residents, and

operates on midweek evenings between Tuesday and Thursday, and through the day between Friday and Sunday. ÆÆSrednja ulica 2, Brtonigla (052 725 000, san-rocco.hr). Descend into the underworld 3 Accessible to any who can negotiate its steep stairs, Mramornica Cave sits between Nova Ves and Brtonigla, just off main road E751. Open from April to October, this long-visited attraction allows visitors to negotiate its long lit walkways by holding onto the railings as they go, with plenty of space above to the sides thanks to its dimensions several metres tall and wide. What is daunting, though, is when you gaze into the depths beyond the safety railing, and imagine what might be down those deep dark San Rocco RestaurantXXX fathoms. In the main chamber, Marble caveXXX nature has given the dripstone red

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Savour succulent slow-cooked fish 5 In operation since 1980, the Konoba Astarea can offer many memorable specialities, but none more memorable or more special than its dishes prepared pod pekom. This involves a slow, braising method, enhancing all moistures and flavours under a dome-like cooking bell, or peka. Usually a whole fish or lamb is the centrepiece, accompanied by potatoes and all kinds of vegetables. As if the atmosphere of the Astarea wasn’t homely enough, with its old photos, piano and open fire where various dishes are also prepared, lending your meal a great smoky taste. Amiable chef/ owner Anton Kernjus will talk you through the day’s menu, likely to include sea bass, conger eel and sole. There are meat alternatives too, though here fish and seafood are the way to go, scampi buzara and grilled scallops also Konoba Astarea recommended. For dessert, apple strudel is another house speciality. ÆÆRonkova 9, Brtonigla (052 summer. Bridges and cascades Valle by the main site, the other, summer, you can opt for a private 774 384, 091 539 6889) also feature, and make sure to pack Santa Lucia near Buje. Here teran, rooftop dinner à deux, with wine, supplies to set up a picnic at one of malvazia, muškat momjanski and timed just before sunset, or a picnic Pamper yourself several designed spots. other indigenous varieties are at the Santa Lucia vineyard. at a luxury spa cultivated and hand-picked every ÆÆVale 78, Momjan (052 779 177, kozlovic.hr) 6 Recently voted ‘Wellness Tour a top winery harvest, available for sampling Hotel of the Year’ in Croatia, the Nine different tours are as part of a guided visit. Year- Dine in plain five-star Hotel Mulino on the 8 offered at the renowned round tours include a two-hour countryside Croatia-Slovenia border (literally!), Kozlović winery, north-east presentation, partly in the old 9 One of the best, if not the best, a short drive north of Buje, attracts of Buje past Momjan. A family cellar from 1904, with finger food, countryside restaurants, Konoba many visitors from either country business since 1904, the current and a one-hour sampling of classic Morgan is easy to find – if you’re one keen on a weekend of Thalion Kozlović operation consists of two Istrian wines, grappas and olive oils of the many Italian regulars who treatments and relaxing in a expansive vineyard areas, one at in the company’s smart wine bar. In beat a path to its door at weekends. Roman sauna. There’s a Turkish bath and Finnish sauna too, plus pools indoor (with hydro massage) and out. Mulino is mainly known, however, as a casino hotel, with 20 gaming tables and 260 slot machines, a 24/7 world of bright lights and spinning wheels. Palm trees outside even offer that Las Vegas touch. ÆÆŠkrile 75A, Plovanija (052 725 300, mulino.hr). Hike along the Mirna river 7 Leading from Nova Vas, near Brtonigla, a tarmac track runs all the way to the Škarline Nature Park. Here the pretty river Mirna, Istria’s longest, twists and turns through verdant slopes, perfect hiking country. Škarline itself is one of the streams that feeds into it, its waters pure and lime-coloured, reflecting the ample greenery Hotel San Rocco Wellness that provides welcome shade in

Time Out Istria 2019 138 Buje & Brtonigla Top 20 Buje & Brtonigla Top 20

For first-time visitors, it’s not that is all that remains of Buje’s Sunday champagne brunches, a and foremost, it’s an ideal place Oštarija Rondo well signposted – to reach it, take fortifications, the rest of the popular feature on this part of the to tuck in to the rural Istrian The dining arm of the Franković the main road out of Buje, then a stronghold otherwise abandoned Istrian coastline. repertoire of home-made pasta, winery is very impressive indeed. track on the left-hand side a kilome- or destroyed. Itself on the point of ÆÆKarigador 74B (091 919 4900, gecco.pro) meats baked under a hot metal The Rondo relies on seasonal, tre before Brtonigla. Make sure to collapse, this pentagonal landmark lid (including goat), and goulash locally sourced produce to book a table first, though, ideally on was given a complete renovation Combine a gallery made from boškarin, the local bring gnocchi with boškarin or the large covered terrace with a view in 2015 and now is not only safe to visit with a picnic horned cattle. The wine list runs steak with porcini mushrooms of the vines. Owner Marko Morgan walk around in, but entertaining, 14 Though born in Zagreb, from an unpretentious house white to your table. Similarly, bream, lets locally sourced ingredients and too. Amid brickwork nearly 600 renowned sculptor Aleksandar to the best of local small winery bass, sole and squid do not have attention to detail take centre stage, years old, art exhibitions are Rukavina was rooted to Istria, production. Modern dining rooms to travel too far before they to produce simple dishes based on displayed, taken advantage of the living and working here for the feature rustic implements and old reach the kitchen here. They’re authentic recipes. The business tower’s atmospheric surroundings last 25 years of his life before he musical instruments. Meanwhile, then sizzled or drizzled in the involves the whole family: Morgan and ideal location. passed away in 1985. His memorial alongside, the kids can visit the extra virgin olive oil the family senior hunts for game, his mother gallery in bucolic Brtonigla is not owners’ farm, with its donkeys, Truffle omlette also makes, another reason and sister work in the kitchen. Hang out with only filled with 47 of his works sheep, geese, ducks, chickens why the Rondo gets so much There’s no fixed menu; Morgan the beautiful in wood, stone and bronze, but is and rabbits. repeat custom. relays to customers what is available 13 people at Gecco set in a shaded park, where you ÆÆUmaška 35, Petrovlja (052 740 volunteers to construct Marina’s and other regional riches. Be sure to of this traditional, family-run ÆÆTrg Josipa Broz Tita 6, Buje (052 772 898) that day and invites them to take an Gecco Beach Club is more than just can spread out the picnic blanket 160, konoba-nono.com) church. The huge altar would be stay for the seasonal fruit desserts, establishment on its signboard, aperitif. Time-tested specialities are another another waterfront spot after you finish at the museum. designed in the same shaped as the washed down with the local Muscat. indicating that whatever you order Primizia Food & Wine based on the season – homemade with a few mixed drinks and DJ Rukavina taught art in Buje and Visit the Lourdes cave at Lourdes where the famous ÆÆMost 52, Merišće, Momjan (052 – scampi, fresh fish, pasta with Under the same umbrella as the polenta with game perhaps or slow- tunes. Here, at the lesser-known Brtonigla, initiated many cultural of Istria visions took place. Sure enough, in 779 152, staripodrum.info) truffles – there’s plenty of the red tip-top San Rocco hotel and res- cooked and marinated boškarin ox. resort of , a short drive projects and was dedicated to 16 France has Lourdes, July 1929, the church was ready, or white stuff to go with it. Set in taurant the other side of Brtonigla, ÆÆBracanija 1, Buje (052 774 from Brtonigla, you can start the restoring neglected Istrian villages where peasant girl Bernadette opened and consecrated – and Admire the works the corner house of a quiet square Primizia is unsurprisingly excel- 520, konobamorgan.eu). day with sunrise yoga, try your to their former glory. Peasants, Soubirous saw her visions in 1858 every July since, greets local wor- of Venetian master bookended by an impressive lent, its pizzas and pastas made hand at a little beach volleyball and soldiers, feature heavily in the – Istria has Radini. In this pretty vil- shippers who gather for a special 19 craftsmen church, the Šantič may charge a with various kinds of flour accord- Soak in a beer spa before settling down to lunch, works on view at the gallery. lage between Brtonigla, Karigador Mass and ceremony to honour Our Visit the Church of San Rocco in little more than most local konobas ing to taste. The menu is seasonal, A cult beer for a decade perhaps some miso soup, pad Thai ÆÆAleksandra Rukavine 9, and the Adriatic, a certain Marina Lady of Lourdes. Venice or magnificent Cathedral of but the quality should make those your fuži, pljukanci, gnocchi or tag- 10 or more, San Servolo noodles, or spicy tom yum. The Brtonigla (052 774 307) Pirovič also saw the Virgin Mary, in St George in Ferrara, and you will see few extra kunas worth it. liatelle coming with boškarin beef, has put the profits to good use, not afternoon can be given over to 1922, and eventually persuaded Buy top truffles the works of master sculptor Giovan- ÆÆSvetog Zenona trg 7, Brtonigla (052 774 390) black truffles or locally sourced by opening yet another craft-ale swimming and sunbathing, before Visit a farm and the powerful local Radin family to The Buje outlet of the ni Marchiori. Here in Istria, too, are chicken. Carnivores shouldn’t bar, but by creating a boutique it’s time for an apéritif, and maybe have lunch assist her in building a church as a 17 legendary Zigante masterpieces by Marchiori, carved Konoba Malo Selo miss out on the veal cooked in a hotel and beer spa just outside a cocktail or two. By sunset, DJs 15 Just off the main result of this miracle. Providing a brand is one of half-a-dozen stores from famed Carrara marble: the ‘Remote’ would best describe the wood-fired oven. Main courses can Buje. Along with contemporary, are in full swing. Operating daily road to Buje, the village-based small plot by the main square, and across Istria and Slovenia, ample statues of St Sebastian and St Servu- location here, off the beaten track be prefaced by own-made sheeps’ four-star lodgings, you can soak until 2am for six months of the family operation Konoba Nono stone from their own quarry, the proof of the success of this Livade- lus, after whom the main church in between Buje and Kaldanija – and cheese or boškarin carpaccio. away your aches and pains in a year, Gecco is best known for its is both farm and eatery. First Radins enlisted the help of many based operation. In the late 1990s, the centre of Buje is named. Built on yet, given the quality of its fare, the Wine comes from the renowned beer bath. The treatment lasts for a certain Giancarlo Zigante and his the site of its Gothic-Romanesque ‘Little Village Tavern’ has made Kozlović, Cattunar and Cuj cellars, 45 minutes and also includes use dog Diana found the largest white predecessor from the 1200s, this late a tidy living since opening more among others. of a heated indoor pool, Finnish truffle in history, a discovery that Baroque landmark contains an organ than 30 years ago. Four kinds ÆÆGiuseppe trg 4, Brtonigla (052 and Turkish saunas, and the gym. led to a destination restaurant, created by Gaetano Callido. One of of pasta and ravioli come with 774 704, primizia.hr) The steakhouse features the finest a large processing and canning 430 he is said to have constructed, boškarin beef, mushrooms, black Istrian boškarin ox, lamb and factory, and all kinds of offshoots. found in a dozen churches around or even white truffles, which also prosciutto, partaken with a full Cornering the market in truffle Venice, this one dates back to 1791. decorate the superb steak that has BEACHES view of the surrounding Istrian dining, Zigante is a significant local carnivores making repeat journeys countryside. industry based around this forest Pick up quality along meandering Road 200 up Though it feels very much inland, ÆÆMomjanska ulica 7, Buje (052 772 505, fungus. At this store, truffles come olive oil from Buje. Not much by way of fish Brtonigla is under ten kilometres 091 477 2400, sanservoloresort.com) in all forms, black, white, in honey, 20 The red, grey and black or seafood, but the Malo Selo sticks from the coast – and the city in olive oil, in cheese, in dark soils in this part of Istria lend them- to what it’s good at – and what it’s beach at Karigador, pretty much Sample local chocolate and in jam. The latest selves to the cultivation of olives good at is very good indeed. the first thing you come to as the Muscat brand-stretcher? Truffle crisps. – which is where the Buršić family ÆÆFratrija 1, Kaldanija 1 (052 777 road forks off to the right from the 11 Momjan is the historic ÆÆTrg Josipa Broza Tita 10, Buje (052 comes in. Based Nova Vas, near 332, konobamaloselo.hr) roundabout. A mix of sand, rocks heartland of Muscat wine. Golden 772 125, zigantetartufi.com) Brtonigla, this dynamic operation and concrete boardwalk, it has a in colour, muškat momjanski has produces five types of olive oil, De Konoba Silvano beach volleyball net, snorkelling been produced in and around Dine in a historic Kleva created from five types of In a quiet part of Brtonigla, the and a couple of outlets dispensing this hilltop village near Buje for distillery olives, Buza with balsamic under- Konoba Silvano knows what it’s beers and ice creams. centuries. A particularly fine 18 One of those places that’s tones, Istrian Bjelica to go with doing with fish and seafood – note A little further north towards accompaniment for dessert, this highly regarded by locals and well mature cheeses, Leccino for sea- the nautical knick-knacks hung Lovrečica, Kanova sports a recently local variety is celebrated every worth driving a few extra kilometres food and Pendolino to accompany up around the bare stone interior. relandscaped sunbathing area, November for the fortnight- to find, the Stari Podrum is situ- pasta. All are extra virgin, and all Given that it’s set in Istria’s gastro close to a Blue Flag beach and stairs long Muscat and Truffle Days ated in an old red-brick distillery in are available at this homely outlet. hub and attracts a significant descending down into clear waters. gastronomic festival in Momjan. Momjan, a wine-producing village ÆÆNova Vas 102 (052 774 102, bursic.net) Italian clientele, prices are steeper Near the campsite is a sailing and Year-round, wineries such as just north-east of Buje. The food is as than you might find elsewhere windsurfing academy for children Kozlović lay on tours and sampling off-the-beaten-track as the location, in the Istrian interior, but being and adults, with kayaking and SUP sessions for visitors. with an informal follow-the-staff- Best of the rest this close to the sea, the lobster paddle as well. suggestions menu that changes presented on a bed of pasta will Lovrečica itself has its own Observe art in a seasonally according to what’s fresh. Istarska Konoba Šantič be first-rate. Grilled John Dory public beach on waterfront medieval tower Expect good home cooking with A jug and a map of Istria with a would be another wise option. Slanik, light on amenities but 12 Built by the Venetians home-made pasta, soups and stews bunch of grapes superimposed Open year-round. with a number of eateries dotted in the 1400s, St Martin’s Tower garnished with truffles, asparagus over it feature beside the name ÆÆMarconi ulica 10, Brtonigla (099 707 2704) close by.

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The pleasure of luxury

square metres given over to health, relaxation and beautification. Centrepieced by a kidney- Recently voted ‘Wellness Hotel of the Year’ in Croatia, the five-star Casino Hotel Mulino shaped pool with hydro-massage jets, a Turkish on the Croatia-Slovenia border, a short drive north of Buje in Istria, attracts visitors bath, Roman sauna and Finnish sauna allow from all over Europe seeking luxury and high-end spa treatments. you to let yourself drift away in the lap of warm- ing luxury. Surrounded by snug loungers, with emotion showers and a help-yourself selection of fruit, soft drinks and special teas, guests may THE SURROUNDINGS could not be more de Luxe and Single de Luxe. From the Single to by those in the Mulino Junior Suite Blue. Guests also take advantage of the panoramic pool out- tranquil. On the slopes overlooking the beauti- the Presidential, luxury, charm and elegance in the Mulino Junior Suite Red look out over a side and well-equipped gym. ful Gulf of Piran out in the Adriatic, the Casino underscore the ubiquitous Swarovski crystal, verdant expanse of nature park. Those keen on extra pampering can book Hotel Mulino overlooks the Piran Saltpans fine wood and soft leather. At guests’ disposal, from noon until 1am a massage or beautification treatment using Nature Park. Vineyards, olive groves, orchards From a roomy 36 square metres to a every day of the week, are the Restaurant exclusive Guinot, Thalion or Natura Bisse and historic hilltop Istrian hamlets line the mammoth 84, space is a given. Also universal Mulino and Restaurant Tropicana. With glitter- products. landscape, the Mediterranean climate is mild are king-sized beds, veined marble bathrooms ing crystal and silverware, an exclusive ambi- The Casino Hotel Mulino is, naturally, also and forgiving, wine cultivation and farm pro- with underfloor heating, LED HD TVs, ultrafast ence envelops sophisticated diners treated to a casino, with 20 gaming tables and 260 slot duction the main activities in this unspoiled WiFi, remote-controlled electronic curtains, Mediterranean cuisine and Istrian delicacies in machines, a 24/7 world of bright lights and north-west corner of Istria with generations of bath tubs, bath robes, slippers, 24-hour the à la carte Restaurant Mulino. Truffles, fresh spinning wheels. As well as American roulette, Italian influence on cuisine and architecture. room service and a range of exclusive natural seafood, succulent meat and produce in season you can try your luck at punto banco, Texas The design of the Casino Hotel Mulino itself, cosmetic products in each bathroom. Striking are the cornerstones of the gastronomy on offer hold’em, black jack, Russian poker and Mulino’s while gleaming and contemporary, echoes the artworks feature throughout. here. Those booking the refined Restaurant own hold’em poker. Palm trees outside even elegance of this timeless environment. Some of the Double de Luxe rooms have been Tropicana can tuck into fine regional fare in offer that Las Vegas touch. Here, 67 guestrooms and luxury suites pro- adapted for access for guests with reduced intimate surroundings, with family, friends and For those opting to fly here, there’s a major vide visitors with all they need for a relaxing get- mobility. business clients, backdropped by views of the international airport at Trieste a short drive away. away and come in seven categories: Presidential Exclusive customers staying in the Presi- Sečovlje saltpans and Nature Park. Suite, Suite de Luxe, Mulino Junior Suite Blue, dential Suite and Suite de Luxe have their own Peace, tranquillity and soft lighting imbue Casino Hotel Mulino Mulino Junior Suite Red, Junior Suite, Double whirlpool while sea views can also be enjoyed the extensive Prestige Wellness & Spa, 1,500 ÆÆŠkrile 75A, Plovanija (052 725 300, mulino.hr)

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the full yahoo in two more sections of around 250 metres each. The maximum gradient is on the third part, when you’ll be flying over the Pazin sheer drop at a speed of around 50kph. The end point is atop Pazin cave, itself a panoramic viewpoint. This attraction runs from May to September, 10am-7pm – the rest of & Žminj the year, it’s group visits only. ÆÆŠime Kurelića 4 (091 543 7718) Devour divine meat On the beaten path but off Top 20 4 googlemaps – Slokovići is Pazin, featuring a castle constructed in 983, on the local Ž5190 road that links Maršeti with Trošti south of Pazin is the chief locale among a lovely grouping of – Crni Dimnjak is one of those towns that includes Žminj. classic Balkan grill spots that most carnivores can only dream about. Top-notch ćevapi and pljeskavica ADMINISTRATIVE CENTRE for are served on authentic flatbread Istria, Pazin has a bus and a train in the classic way, with a side of station, banks, the state archive, a chopped onions and ajvar tomato- courthouse, and a post office. For and-pepper sauce, plus a goodly those not here on bureaucratic portion of fries. ‘Served’, actually, business, its main attraction is its is doing the friendly welcome historic castle, set dramatically and presentation a disservice, atop an abyss, inspiring Jules for the couple running the place Verne to set one of his novels prepare and offer everything with there. Today houses love, even though it would be a two museums. Four main roads physical impossibility for any feed into Pazin, making it a handy guest to spend more than 100 kuna base for exploring nearby cultural a head. Try and get a sturdy table and historic attractions, such as outside and take in the bucolic the church frescoes of Žminj. Pazin zip line surroundings. ÆÆSlokovići 82F (091 601 0400) Visit a castle of Jules Verne legend 1 First mentioned in 983, Pazin Castle was acquired by the Habsburgs then owned by the Montecuccoli family from Modena town as modest Žminj, is just the until World War II. During that kind of place where locals gather. time, it was a seat of government, Tucked away amid greenery, a residence and a prison but, most the Puli Pineta serves top-notch of all, was used by French writer ombolo (Istrian pork), steak and Jules Verne as the setting for his goulash with pasta – you’re inland, adventure story Mathias Sandorf. so not much by way of seafood. Verne never visited Pazin but The place opens up late afternoon, wrote to the town mayor to ask so tends to be pretty buzzy by him for a description. Now in state early evening. hands, Pazin Castle houses the ÆÆKarlov vrt, Žminj (098 991 1795) City Museum and Ethnographic Museum of Istria but many visit Zip over the for its dramatic setting, above a Pazin abyss steep abyss, as so painstakingly 3 From outside the Hotel described by Verne himself. Lovac behind Pazin Castle, a zip ÆÆTrg Istarskog razvoda 1, Pazin (052 623 054, line runs for over half a kilometre over the yawning chasm and Dine where locals do medieval fortress that comprise One of the many attractions the most dramatic landmark in 2 of this lesser-visited central central Istria. Those who may be region of Istria is the fact that it isn’t a bit tentative about putting their swamped by tourists, not even in lives in the hands of a length of wire high season. Therefore, a quality can try out the first two sections, local eatery such as the Konoba Pazin CastleXXX each 80 metres long, which Konoba Puli Pineta Puli Pineta, a slight trek from a prepare the more adventurous for

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Find a Aroma, from just over the border in of your choice Trieste, its Romantica brand a mix 5 Many Istrian communities of 70% Arabica beans. Given its late put on an annual event or two, invar- opening hours – until 11pm during iably focused on wine or truffles, the week, until 1am at weekends possibly prosciutto or even aspara- – the Epolon transforms into a gus. But this part of Istria goes in for cocktail spot after dark, high-end instruments – one hilltop village spirits brought to the fore. might invite all the region’s double- ÆÆŠetalište pazinske gimnazije, Pazin bass players for the day, another, (091 234 5195, epolon-pazin.com) accordionists. Zabrežani, on the old road that links Pazin to Žminj, Come to prosciutto usually attracts few tourists but country come here during the first weekend 8 West of Pazin, Tinjan has in August and you’ll see accordion been declared the Town of Pršut, players wandering around the place, so deeply is this community inter- squeezing out traditional tunes. woven with trade in fine smoked Pazin itself has its Brass Bands of ham. Don’t expect to find shops Istria event in May. Not wishing to on every corner, for Tinjan is only be left out, Grašišće celebrates the the main village of eight smaller harmonica with its Zasopimo na hamlets, each with a population of Organic day every May. ‘Let’s Play a hundred or so people. But pršut the Harmonica’ also brings expo- producers abound – just look at the nents of other instruments together labels if you pop into Konoba Điđi by way of harmonica accompani- (Tinjan 17) or, just outside Tinjan ment. Come to Draguć in June and in Mlinki, Konoba na Kapeli. Every you’ll see musicians lugging around October, Tinjan hosts the two-day their double-bass from group to International Prosciutto Fair, group, eager to participate in the inviting producers from as far as Bajsi u Draguću festival. Spain, with live music and family- friendly entertainment set up in a Follow the Trail large marquee. of Waterfalls ÆÆisap.hr 6 For a serious cycle tour embellished by streams, lakes and Admire the frescoes waterfalls, a four-hour circular of Žminj route has been worked out with 9 Today, Žminj is a modest Pazin as the start and end points. Istrian town of some 3,500 people, En route, there are quite a few its importance overshadowed by Hum steep climbs and descents, so the administrative capital of Pazin younger and less fit cyclists might 15km away. Yet it wasn’t always this be advised to tackle a gentler track. way. Frequently attacked by the Sample The so-called Trail of Waterfalls Venetians, Žminj was never ruled outstanding takes in the villages of Beram, from Venice for any significant 12 Malvasia wine Grdoselo and on partly length of time. Locals took feast, surrounded by the frescoes Take the train to Just outside Pazin in the asphalted roads before you’re solace and expressed gratitude also created in the 1500s. the smallest town settlement of Lovrin, the Gortan rewarded for your travails by the in decorating their churches in 11 in the world family winery has been making Zarečki waterfall, actually a ten- beautiful frescoes – murals you Bask in bucolic Hum likes to call itself ‘The top-quality, golden malvasia for metre-high drop from cave to lake, can still see today. The biblical Beram Smallest Town in the World’, decades. The Malvasia of the Pazin a popular spot in summer. From scenes depicted in the Holy Trinity 10 Just outside the Konoba though whether a hilltop region has a more flowery texture there, you’re in the home straight Church, such as the Flight to Egypt, Vela Vrata, a pretty traditional tav- settlement of 21 people counts than its many counterparts around back to Pazin. The main cycle the Last Supper and the Ascension, ern in the hilltop hamlet of Beram as a town is another matter. With Istria. Starting with only 1,500 rental centre, Zoe Bike (zoebike. date back to 1471 although we are outside Pazin, a terrace table pro- or without the epithet, Hum vines, the Gortans have expanded hr), is nearby or many rural not sure of the artist responsible. vides the perfect view of the undu- preserves its thousand-year to now cultivate some 50,000 lodgings allow you borrowed use Experts point to Master Bolfgang lating countryside of central Istria. culture within its medieval walls. vines over an area of 15 hectares, of two wheels. of Carinthia, whose other works True, you can enjoy your classic Hum is also one of a handful of opening a tasting room for visitors ÆÆistria-bike.com/en include likenesses of the Virgin regional dish – fuži pasta twists with stations on the railway line that in 2016. Guests are given a tour Mary in the Church of the Mother goulash, pasta with truffles, ombolo runs from to Pula, via of the vineyard and cellar. The Start the day with of God on an island in Lake Bled, pork – within the stone interior. In Pazin. The journey between Pazin Gortans also produce merlot and prime coffee in Pazin Slovenia. Those in the Church the colder months, given the roaring and Hum is 20 minutes, and cabernet sauvignon if you prefer 7 Marko Bačić opened the of St Anthony date back even fire, this would be the best option. although Hum station is a fair trek red to white. Epolon Caffe Bar in 2013 after further, to 1381, and have a more But dining outside of a spring lunch- from the town itself, it’s worth it for ÆÆLovrin (099 437 9618, vina-gortan.hr) successfully running Pazin’s other Venetian influence. Note also the time or summer’s eve is one of those the tranquillity both the train and two main cafés, the Kolodvor and graffiti in Glagolitic, the ancient unrepeatable Istrian experiences of hike offer. Once you reach Hum, Stay true to the Stari Pazin. Here, in the Pazin Slav language once prominent unspoiled scenery, quality cuisine have a look out for inscriptions in tradition Memorial House, a fully working in these parts. St Bartholomew’s and fine wine. Plus a barbecue grill is Glagolitic, the oldest known Slavic 13 The entire village under theatre, the accent is on top quality. packs every August with the mass set up outside in high season. language, created by St Cyril of heritage protection, Grašišće is Beram Coffee comes courtesy of Primo preceding the major communal ÆÆBeram 39 (052 622 801) Cyrillic fame. where to come if you fancy leaving

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the modern world behind for a day See how in May, when musicians gather back to 1574, on the first Tuesday samanj was agricultural in nature, or two. Tucked inside the stone gate generations of to blast out a few tunes. Wine and in every month, alongside the a chance for farmers to trade or that leads up to the tranquil com- 17 Istrians lived maneštra soup are also celebrated recreation area now referred exchange rural tools – you may munity of 400 or so souls, Konoba Occupying two floors of Pazin on certain days of the year. to as Park narodnog ustanka, even find a few being sold here. Marino serves Istrian cuisine Castle, the Ethnographic Museum vendors set up stalls in the heart But most of all, you’ll find pottery, made according to age-old reci- of Istria shows the realities of Browse Pazin of Pazin to offer all kinds of paintings, jewellery, decorative pes. The maneštra soup warms on rural and town life in the region market produce, ornaments, artefacts and homeware, old furniture colder days – Grašišće even holds a from around the 19th century 20 In a tradition dating knickknacks. Originally, Pazinski and textiles. maneštra festival every year. Ravioli onwards. More than 7,000 textiles filled with game is a house speciality, and objects used in agriculture, there’s prosciutto ham, of course, crafts and cuisine are on display, Istrian sausage and goats’ cheese, with focus on specific vocations and lashings of excellent domestic such as wine-growing, fishing and wine of both colours. Fruit grappa, pottery. Though you’ll probably no perhaps honey- or mistletoe-fla- longer see the women of Peroj, near voured, bookends your meal nicely Fažana, wearing these traditional and if you overdo it, the family can Montenegrin costumes except rent you one of the rooms upstairs. on feast days, what is remarkable ÆÆGrašišće 75 (052 687 081, is how close Istria remains to this konoba-marino-gracisce.hr) way of life. The price of admission Castle Belaj includes entry to the Pazin City Observe the Dance Museum within the same building, of the Dead with its collection of church bells 14 Of all the churches in about six kilometres from Pazin. long trek to find it, a small temple art of Pazinski cukerančić- and early medieval pottery. central Istria, the one with the From the outside, the Church of hidden amid the woods. Step making. As the family here is also ÆÆTrg Istarskog razvoda 1, Pazin most impressive artwork stands Our Lady on the Rocks makes inside though – having phoned adept at distilling its own brandy (052 622 220, emi.hr) a kilometre outside Beram, itself you wonder why you made such a ahead to pick up the key – and from figs, mistletoe or even local the reason for your visit becomes grass, the pastries should not Watch out for clear. Covering almost the entire lack for rakija. vampires space of the interior are late ÆÆOgrade, Lindarski katun 60, Pazin (052 18 Pity poor Jure Grando. medieval frescoes so detailed, 693 035, agroturizam-ograde.hr/en) One night in 1672, the good they take your breath away. The villagers of Kringa, near Tinjan, works by local artist Vincent Wine and dine in drove a stake through his body of Kastav, dating to the 1400s, a 16th-century then continued to hound his poor depict scenes of Mary and Jesus 16 castle widow, in the perhaps mistaken plus, most of all, a piece called The noble Barbo dynasty built belief that her husband was a Dance of the Dead in which Belaj Castle in the late 1500s, vampire. Some 350 years on, the merchants, kings and cardinals halfway between Pazin and Učka. Vampire Bar in Kringa, a short are led to meet their maker. At But it was when the property was drive west of Pazin or Žminj, some point in the 18th century, under the ownership arrival of plays on this local legend. Blood- these works were covered over, the Habsburg von Auerspergs coloured decor and cocktails, only to be rediscovered and between the mid-1600s and mid- spooky music and playful staff add renovated in 1913. 1800s that Beraj developed as a to the illusion – and everyone pulls ÆÆBeram 83 (091 580 6083) wine-growing estate. The clan not out all the stops for Hallowe’en. only converted the stronghold ÆÆKringa 32 Bake your into the courthouse for the own Pazinski region, but cultivated the fertile Explore Grašišće 15 cukerančić land around it, then delivering Once known as Every Croatian region has its own the wine all the way to Vienna. 19 Gallignana, possibly traditional sweets and pastries. This historic vineyard, still in because of the Gauls who settled In Pazin, it’s Pazinski cukerančić, operation today, comprises some here before even Charlemagne was a sugary delight fashioned in a 11 hectares. Here, the Podrum ruler in the 700s, Grašišće looks leaf-like shape, often dipped in Belaj winery has been a modern- little different to when Napoleon home-made brandy to give each day concern since 1998 – it also briefly took over 1,000 or so years one a little kick. At weddings, makes grappa and honey – while later. Each of its many churches communions and family the award-winning Dvorac centrepiece its many squares, each celebrations, there are bound to Belaj winery has been catering integral to what were separate be plates of Pazinski cukerančić to the upper end of the market districts. St Euphemia was built in on the buffet table. To sample since 2011. The restaurant uses 1383 and features a large crucifix them, buy a small bag from as many Istrian specialities as dating back even earlier. The authentic local bakery Antica, at possible, such as boškarin beef, Church of the Mother of God at the ulica Franine i Jurine 2B between black truffles and Istrian sausage. Square contains frescoes dating Sv Nikola Church and the Town The dining rooms, park and inner back to the 1400s. Behind it are Hall. Alternatively, one of several courtyard are often hired out for the Gothic remains of the summer culinary workshops held at rural weddings and social events, so do residence of the bishops of nearby lodging Ograde, about halfway book well in advance. Pićan. During the year, several Pazinski cukerančić between Pazin and Žminj, ÆÆBelaj 20A, Cerovlje (052 524 festivals attract visitors, the most Grašišće instructs visitors in the age-old 315, castlebelaj.com) unusual being Harmonica Day

Time Out Istria 2019 148 149 2019 Time Out Istria permanent exhibition covers including the divine olive oil Labin & Rabac Top 20 the Venetian, Napoleonic and and wine. Don’t worry if you Habsburg periods. A user- linger longer than expected – the friendly chronological overview management also looks after spring, key restaurants in these includes interactive features, four guestrooms in Labin and communities take advantage of a replica of a local coalmine four in Rabac. the plethora of wild asparagus that and documentation in English. ÆÆŠetalište San Marco, Labin (052 grows naturally in the verdant Labin There’s particular focus on the 852 336, kvarnerlabin.com) surroundings. Each prepares miners’ striker of 1921, World War special dishes, but most will offer II and the modern-day annual Visit a church gallery the local favourite, asparagus cultural happening of Labin It was Pula-born painter omelette. Establishments include Art Republic. 3 Vinko Šaina who hit upon the Konoba Stare Staze in Kršan, & Rabac ÆÆUlica 1.svibnja 6, Labin (052 the idea of reviving the tiny the Tri Murve in Vozilići and the 852 477, hvm.mdc.hr) Church of Our Lady of Mount Dorina in . Carmel, halfway up an incline Dine with a on a steep Labin street, by Discover Labin at night magnificent view converting into an art gallery. Thanks to a popular Top 20 2 A superb panorama of That was back in 1991. After two 6 initiative, visitors to The only major town on Istria’s wild east the Kvarner Bay, all the way years of painstaking repair and Labin between mid-June and out to the island of Cres, is not restoration, working alongside mid-September can enjoy a free coast, Labin is strong on culture while the only reason to visit revered experts in architectural heritage, five-language sightseeing tour Rabac provides the summer fun. Restaurant Kvarner – but all the Šaina was able to open the of the town, led by a local guide. same you’ll want to find a table Galerija Alvona, one of the most Medieval secrets and legends, the on the 60-person terrace. The prominent in eastern Istria. mining industry and the legacy of LABIN IS A LAW unto itself. Wander around 2,000 Istrian specialities here would Certainly, it has since hosted some the Labin Republic are explained Sited on a high peak, three kilo- years of history be worth the visit whatever 100 exhibitions by mainly, but not as the group is taken round the metres from the sea, Labin was 1 In the Baroque Battiala- the view. Pride of place goes to exclusively, Croatian artists, as streets, sights and Baroque palaces christened ‘Albona’ (‘Town on a Lazzarini palace dating back to the the krafi, ravioli-shaped pasta well as collaborations from nearby of the historic centre. Tours take Hill’) by ancient Celts and this late 1600s, the Labin City Museum sweetened with raisins, rum Italy and Austria. Although the place every Tuesday in summer, ancient name is still in use. Today takes you on a journey of 2,000 and sugar and stuffed with four Alvona does not insist on a specific between 9.30pm and 11pm, it’s a town of artists and galleries. years. Starting with the atrium types of local cheese. Fuži pasta artistic direction, exhibitions have bookended by sampling of local Nearby Rabac is about summer display of Roman tombstones and twists with beef – dry-aged to work around a tight space of five produce at the Art Gastro Gallery at fun. Its steep hillside is crowded monuments from the first to the meat is another speciality – and by six metres, albeit one equipped the Palazzo Negri. with pretty holiday homes, com- third centuries – note the mention gnocchi with wild boar can with gallery lighting. ÆÆrabac-labin.com plemented all-in resort hotels and of ‘Respublica Albonessium’ on also be recommended. Much of ÆÆG Martinuzzi 15, Labin (052 access to a Blue Flag beach. one dating back to 245 AD – the the produce is sourced locally, 852 082, galerija-alvona.hr) Savour sea bass on Tito Square 7 Its prominent, two-storey façade sat on Titov trg – yes, Labin still has a Titov trg – Velo Kafe is one of those places that is all things to all men. Three venues fill this Italianate building, all of them busy, all year round. On an upper floor with a view of the main square, a comfortable, half-trendy, half-rustic restaurant boasts glowing terracotta walls, plenty of artwork and a traditional open fire in winter. The food is typical Istrian with plenty of maritime options, not least the sea bass in a sauce of capers, olives and white wine, and outstanding Kvarner prawns. The café and its terrace throng in summer while a nightspot offers rock music to regulars. ÆÆTitov trg 12, Labin (052 852 745, velokafe.com) Discover the Meet a friend of by the Labin City Museum. Visitors Follow the great outdoors Martin Luther may admire the dense, erudite asparagus trail 8 Cutting across the bucolic 4 Controversial German cleric volumes in Latin, revolutionary at 5 The lesser-known smaller countryside surrounding Labin Martin Luther, whose teachings the time, in the house where this settlements of Plomin, Kršan, are a number of hiking and cycling divided Christianity in the early Protestant writer and professor of Vozilići and Potpićan lie north trails, named after a certain 1500s, had many followers. One of theology grew up. This memorial of Labin and Rabac, close to the landmark or legend. Each has a the most notable was Labin-born collection has longer opening tip of Kvarner. Hilltop Plomin specific length, degree of difficulty Matthias Flacius Illyricus, whose hours in high season. is particularly picturesque, and GPS coding to help you along writings are kept as part of a unique ÆÆGiuseppina Martinuzzi 7, Labin overlooking a channel that cuts the way and plan your day. A trail collection in palatial surroundings (052 852 477, flacius.org) into Istria’s east coast. Every could be 15km long, the Bellavista,

Time Out Istria 2019 150 151 2019 Time Out Istria Gradska galerija say, taking between four and five Swim, dine and such is the Konoba Rogočana itself, house meat platter of home-made hours by bike – or under 4km, the St sleep in Rogočana not only a traditional restaurant sausage and stuffed turkey. Tables Florentius, a nice half-hour jaunt. 10 A short drive south of but a comfortable, mid-range lodg- spread over the terrace, so the Outdoor activities are not limited Labin, Rogočana (population: 88) ing with an outdoor pool. With the whole dining experience can be to the land – in addition, there’s is a sleepy Istrian hamlet whose tavern-like eatery keeping evening enjoyed outdoors or near a warm- diving at the Girandella centre, sea various accommodation options hours only, this allows you to swim ing fireplace indoors in winter. kayaking through Four Elements, allow you to explore the verdant as the sun sets then settle down to ÆÆRogočana 1 (052 852 576, both Rabac-based, and plenty interior of south-east Istria. One a fine helping of fresh fish or the konobarogocana.com) of nearby opportunities for SUP and sailing. ÆÆistria-trails.com; girandella-diving. com; fourelements.com.hr Explore a ghostly local past 9 Under a kilometre from the crowds on Maslinica beach and nearby campsite in Rabac, a ghostly sight welcomes anyone who decides to take a relatively short stroll along the coast. A busy terminal between 1925 and World War II, the Teleferika was a cable car that served the local bauxite industry. Running the whole nine kilometres from the village of Cere, where the quarry was located, the line delivered the goods directly to the ships waiting here in the bay. Today the ruins of the buildings here still remain for the curious visitor to explore. The view over the waves and of Rabac beyond is sublime – though the cable car has Konoba Rogocana long been out of operation.

Time Out Istria 2019 152 Labin & Rabac

fall off, into clear seawater. And Lino has based its success on simply deeper, where schools of fish hide soup. Visitors may visit the main lighthouse by the Hotel Valamar then go back and do the same thing sublime seafood. Linguini with amid the fishing nets wrapped workshop or browse the shop at Sanfior in Rabac. all over again. clams, spicy lobster and oven-baked around the mast, and see how the ulica Mate Balote 31 in Labin. ÆÆrabacopenair.com/en ÆÆaquafun-turizam.hr dentex with home-style potatoes, rudder is wedged into the sand. ÆÆKrapan 1A, Raša (091 544 4918, merania.hr) this is cuisine created with love and For complete beginners, Dine well in Rabac Sink cocktails and experience, one of the founders hav- Rabacbased Girandella diving year-round party in Rabac ing spent his formative years in the centre lays on trips to the Golubiera BEST OF THE REST Rabac is always at its busiest in sum- 16 While Labin gets arty, kitchens of New York. The setting, rocks where octopi and occasional- mer, its beaches, restaurants and Rabac parties. Just in from the too, is perfect, directly overlooking ly seahorses dwell. Diving courses Enjoy culture discos buzzing through the high seafront, surrounded by resort the waterfront in the case of Lino 1 at for all ages and levels are also given. alfresco in Rabac season. But now this seaside resort hotels, the Movie Bar is where No.59. Guests at evening-only Lino ÆÆGirandella, Rabac (091 769 The Rabac Open Air Festival is slowly coming to life in winter too, holidaymakers get down and 2 at No.11 are treated to an Adriatic 4015, girandella-diving.com) (ROAF) involves six weeks of with venues such as the family-run fraternise. DJs spin all summer view from the upper dining terrace. culture in four main categories: Nostromo staying open to offer com- long, cocktails are dangerously ÆÆMaršala Tita 11 & 59, Rabac (Lino 1 091 157 Pick up some street performance; street fortable lodging and classic Croatian affordable and most of the action 6313, Lino 2 091 197 7079, restaurant-lino.hr) Istrian ceramics music; cinema and theatre, cuisine, often in the form of attrac- takes place outside around a 20 Founded by the hus- and special events. The key tive half-board deals. For those just large clearing in the trees. There's See a Victorian band-and-wife team of Masimo and here is the alfresco aspect of the coming here to dine, you’ll be tuck- occasionally live music too, but just shipwreck Dolores Jenkel in 1993, Merania whole shebang, and its random ing into Istrian favourites – squid, to warm things up. Season-closing 19 Built at a Newcastle has grown from a modest pottery yet inclusive nature. Street sardines, pork loin – a few steps parties tend to be memorable. In shipyard in 1879, the Lina came to workshop into a cottage industry, a performance could mean circus away from the Rabac seafront. high season, other party options grief in the Kvarner Bay on the eve Raša-based, family-run enterprise entertainers, it could mean ÆÆObala Maršala Tita 7, Rabac (052 include the Sundance Beach Club of World War I when on a journey that produces creative lighting, people dressed up as cartoon 872 601, www.nostromo.hr) and, nearby, the Beat Beach Club, from Cardiff to Rijeka. Even sport tableware and all kinds of orna- characters. Films are family- and both along Obala Maršala Tita. divers may observe the ship, set ments, even number signs for hous- usually English-friendly, with top ÆÆMaršala Tita 81, Rabac (099 508 9460, 50 metres from the shore, at least es. Istria provides the inspiration local live acts opening and closing BEACHES Atellier and Gallery Vinko Šaina moviebar.hr); facebook.com/Sundance.Beach. as far as the captain’s cabin. More – note the little wine jugs, bukaleta, the festival. As the curtain comes Club; facebook.com/TheBeatBeachClubRabac experienced divers can plunge and larger versions for pouring out down, the stage moves to the Rabac is lined with beaches – it’s its raison d’être. It’s also lined Relive Raša’s in turn left their works as part of Take a culinary Uncover 500 years with hotels, so privacy will be at a mining history the landscape. Free to enter, the trek to Trget of family history premium, but if you’re here with 11 There’s nothing quite sculpture park by the entrance to 14 Trget, ranged around a 17 The Baroque Palazzo the family or after seaside fun, like Raša – certainly not in Croatia. Labin now contains around 100 beautiful bay south of Labin, is one Negri in Labin’s Old Town, once you’ve come to the right place. A former mining community examples carved from durable of those authentic fishing villages belonged to the noble family of the Alongside the tourist complex whose feisty strike in 1921 Istrian stone. Look out for pieces that have long disappeared from same name who moved here from of the same name, Girandella gave rise to the so-called Labin such as King & Queen by Zvonimir much of the Mediterranean. Set the vicinity of Bergamo. First came beach can offer water skiing, Republic, Raša was deliberately Kamenar and The Breakthrough by at the mouth of the River Raša, it banker and businessman Giovanni diving and all kinds of things to chosen by Il Duce to site his Slovak artist Jozef Janković, whose would attract few visitors – in fact, Antonio, the Negris enjoying the inflate and ride on the waves. model new town in what was work was exhibited at the Tate in it has no lodging to accommodate privileges and affection afforded Kept pristine, with Blue Flag then Italian-occupied territory. London in 2015. any – were it not for a fabulous them by the local Venetian rulers. status, the beach also has all the This classic architecture of the little fish restaurant, Martin The family then became involved regular facilities of bars, shops time remains in place, while Find buried Pescador. Fishing skiffs bob below in timber, then agricultural and loungers to rent. It’s mainly Raša has since rediscovered its treasure in Kranjci the terrace, where the lap of the products, hunting and fishing. By pebbles, with areas of rock and industrial heritage. By using video 13 Local legend has it that water gently competes for your the end of the 16th and early 17th smooth concrete. To one side, projections and sound effects, the first church in what is today attention. That is, until the food centuries, its members owned the dog beach is not only where the Museum of Mining at the the village of Kranjci was built by arrives, the fresh crab, calamari, nine townhouses, three mills and you can take your canines, Arsia Centre evokes the authentic Greeks in Byzantine times. After spaghetti vongole, accompanied several smaller estates. In time, but also hire kayaks and SUP experience of how life was for accumulating much wealth, they by a crisp malvasia. If dining the palace would house a hospital, paddleboards. Further over is the those who worked here. There are were struck by a terrible drought, inside, you’ll be surrounded then a nursery, then a school. naturist section. even the original rail tracks and hunger forcing them to leave. They by maritime knickknacks, the Today the palace is home to the Heading back towards town, a mock-up of the typical modest packed all their gold in a small drinks served from a rowing Art&Gastro Gallery Negri, run Lanterna combines a Blue Flag lodging where a miner and his chariot, which proved too heavy to boat. Traditional furnishings by top local olive farmer William pebble beach for families with a family used to live. The whole move. Part of it, the legend contin- encompass a fireplace that comes Negri and his wife, artist Anessa. natural headland for strong swim- attraction has also been adapted ues, was placed in a cauldron and into its own in winter. Here art, local flavours and mers, the water here exceptionally to accommodate visitors with buried near the Church of St Floren- ÆÆTrget 20 (052 544 976) tradition intermingle – you can clean. A lifeguard is on hand, and a limited mobility. tius, with a secret vow. They never peruse the gallery while sampling buoys and a rope indicate how far ÆÆTrg Republike, Raša returned for the gold, and the vow Take the kids to local cheeses and prosciutto with out you can go. Beach bars here are went with them. What we do know an aquapark award-winning Negri olive oil and a little livelier than the norm – the Admire four is that the church that centrepieces 15 More soft play in wines, as well as Istrian biska and Movie Bar dispense cocktails until decades of modern the village dates back to around 550 the water than high-tech rides, medica grappas. Guided tastings way past midnight in high season. 12 sculpture AD and was built in Romanesque nevertheless the two Aqua Fun are available by appointment. On the other side of the bay, Just outside Labin, once part style. It gained its patron saint 700 sites in Rabac, at Maslinica beach ÆÆG Martinuzzi 11, Labin (052 875 Maslinica, surrounded by holi- of the estate of local nobles, years later, perhaps no coincidence and at the Valamar Girandella 280, 098 219 524, negri-olive.com) day apartments and campsites, Dubrova Sculpture Park displays that Florentius guards against ter- Resort on the other side of also gears its amenities towards the works created by the summer rible storms and low crop yields. the headland, provide active Dine on divine families, with inflatable slides Mediterranean Sculpture The walk from Labin to Kranjci is entertainment all day long in seafood at Lino for kids and various things Symposium here. Short-term along a bucolic trail of around three summer. Slides, towers, climbing 18 Now with two restau- to peddle. Its pebble shore is residencies were offered to select, kilometres – look out for buried frames and tubes allow kids to rants on the main seafront boule- Rabac carnival cleaned every day, ensuring its mainly European, sculptors, who treasure on the way. balance, clamber and, best of all, vard in Rabac, ulica Maršala Tita, Blue Flag status.

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Istrian Lifestyle Under the sub-heading ‘Hand- made and Gourmet Fair’, Istrian Lifestyle is a showcase for local wineries Juričić and Romeo Licul, olive-oil manufacturers Negri and Perin, Blagevica goats’ cheese, truffles and Faraguna lavender makers, to offer their wares every Friday evening through the sum- mer on the Rabac waterfront. Other DO artisanal goods include authentic prosciutto, yoghurt, jams, figs and cosmetics. Even if you’re just TO browsing, it’s a pleasant way to take in the sea air and sample a slice of ham or chunk of cheese. ÆÆMid June-Mid Sept. rabac-labin.com/en

Rabac Open Air Festival town, led by a local guide. Medieval Labin Jazz Festival ROAF involves eleven weeks secrets and legends, the mining Conveniently dovetailing with the of entertainment in four main industry and the famous Labin two-month Labin Art Republic, the categories: street performance; republic are explained as the group Labin Jazz Festival is a three-day street music along the promenade; is taken round the streets, sights event, taking place on consecutive cinema and theatre, and special and Baroque palaces of the historic evenings in the town’s historic events. The key here is the alfresco centre. Tours take place every centre. At 9.30pm or 11pm or both, aspect of the whole shebang, and Tuesday in summer, between mainly Istrian exponents of the its random yet inclusive nature. 9.30pm and 11pm. genre take to the stage to give a Street performance could mean ÆÆMid June-Mid-September. free open-air show to an audience circus entertainers, it could mean rabacopenair.com/en enjoying the relaxed balmy people dressed up as cartoon char- summer vibe. acters. Films are family- and usu- Labin Art Republic ÆÆEarly July. labin-art-republika.com ally English-friendly, with top local Every summer, the cobbled streets live acts opening and closing the and traditional stone buildings Shpeena Dox festival. At the Sundance Tribute of Labin are awash with culture. For three evenings in July, at a Festival you’ll be able to see some The Labin Art Republic festival, its focal point in Labin Old Town top tribute bands playing the music name echoing proud urban history, known as Špina (hence ‘Shpeena of popular acts such as Joe Cocker, involves exhibitions, concerts, Dox’), a series of documentaries The Beatles, Amy Winehouse, theatre shows and all kinds of per- are screened in alfresco Coldplay, ABBA, Zucchero, Queen formances in galleries, churches, surroundings. Curated by a small and Rolling Stones cultural venues and pretty much team of Croatian professionals in ÆÆMid June-late Aug. rabacopenair.com/en any kind of public space suitable. the field, works of varying lengths There’s a fixed agenda but other- focus on modern-day problems Tuesday Night Tours wise everything’s pretty open – for and situations, captured and Also part of the open-air festival most days in July and August, visi- presented by young filmmakers. at neighbouring Rabac, visitors to tors can wander into an atelier, chat Some of the films will be in English Labin between mid-June and mid- to the artist in question and catch or subtitled. September can enjoy a free five- an act of some kind in the evening. ÆÆ3rd week of July. shpeenadox. The great outdoors language sightseeing tour of the ÆÆJuly-Aug. labin-art-republika.com com/index_eng.html Around the historic cobbled streets of Labin and along the seafront at Rabac, events and festivals bring summer to life from June to September.

STARTING WITH the waterfront Istrian as part of each 90-minute tour. Lifestyle gastronomic and artisanal showcase Labin Art Republic also allows you to explore in mid June, the calendar is packed with this fascinating town, by meeting artists things to do – and all of them outdoors. and gallery owners, and taking in all kinds of Also in mid June, Rabac Open Air Festival performances over July and August. The three- starts up, eleven weeks of street music, day Labin Jazz Festival, with free live music, theatre, cinema, special events and open-air forms part of this whole event. performances, most of them English-friendly. July’s Shpeena Dox at Špina in Labin Old As part of the same event, visitors can take Town brings the cultural offerings bang up advantage of the free walks around Labin to date with screenings of contemporary every Tuesday evening in summer, an English- documentaries focusing on modern-day speaking guide pointing out the historic sights situations. Again, some will be English-friendly.

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com) have routes to and from at: Pula (trg 1. istarske brigade Poreč Health Centre, Maura GETTING THERE Venice which serve Pula, Poreč, 1, +385 52 500 012, +385 60 Gioseffia 2 (+385 52 451 611). Rovinj and Rabac. Bookings are 304 090); Rovinj (trg na lokvi 6, Pula Hospital, Zagrebačka 30 AND AROUND now taken online. +385 52 811 453); Poreč (Karla (+385 52 376 500, obpula.hr). Jadrolinija (+385 51 666 111, Huguesa 2, +385 52 432 153); Rovinj Ambulance Emergency By plane www.jadrolinija.hr) is Croatia’s Novigrad (Murve 15, +385 52 757 Ward Istarska (+385 52 813 004). Istria’s only airport is at Pula (+385 national ferry outfit and links 660); Umag (Joakima Rakovca 11, 52 530 105, airport-pula.hr/en). Istria to the Croatian coast via +385 60 381 381); Labin-Rabac Drugs Eight kilometres (five miles) north- their base at nearby Rijeka. In (Trg 2. ožujka, +385 52855 220); Penalties for use, possession and east of the city of Pula, the airport season, a frequent service connects and Pazin (Miroslava Bulešića 2, trafficking of drugs are severe. is not served by public transport Brestova, just north of Labin with +385 52 624 437). Offenders can expect jail sentences – a taxi (+385 52 223 228) costs Cres. Foot-passenger fares are The main Croatian bus company and/or large fines. around 150kn. Flight-time from laughably cheap: Brestova-Cres is is Autotrans (autotrans.hr); the UK is less than three hours. 17kn. Taking an average-sized car Pulapromet (pulapromet.hr) is Electricity National carrier Croatia Airlines would cost 113kn – but obviously, based at Pula. Croatia uses a 220V, 50Hz voltage flies from London Gatwick. other prices vary. and two-pin plugs. Visitors from In season, Ryanair flies from Accident & emergency the UK require an adaptor. London Stansted; Thomsonfly By rail Take out medical insurance when flies from Birmingham, Gatwick Details on connections can travelling to Croatia. The country’s Insurance and Manchester. be found at www.db.de or reciprocal agreement with the Travellers should take out Others within easy reach are www.hznet.hr. UK as part of the comprehensive travel insurance, at the Croatian capital Zagreb In Istria, hub stations are at Pazin covers only emergency treatment, especially if you are going to (zagreb-airport.hr), Slovene capital (Stareh kostanji 1, +385 52 624 and sometimes only 80% of the indulge in any risky sports – (lju-airport.si), and, in 310); Pula (Kolodvorska 7, +385 total cost of care. The standard of climbing, skiing, mountain Italy, Trieste (aeroporto.fvg.it) and 52 541 733); and, nearby, in Rijeka care in Croatia is good. Your best biking – although be sure to Venice (veniceairport.it). Bus and (Trg kralja Tomislava 1, +385 51 bet is to go to the local hospital check the small print first to see is limited between 213 333). or emergency unit where a duty if such activities are covered by the Italian hubs and Istria. doctor can have a look at you. Take your policy. By bus your European Health Insurance By boat Istria is connected on Card with you and your passport. Money Venezia Lines (+385 52 422 896, international lines and all other In the bigger towns, these centres The (kn) is divided +39 041 242 2646, venezialines. Croatian cities with stations should be able to help you: into 100 lipa. Coins are issued in

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Time Out Istria 2019 158 159 2019 Time Out Istria Istria, Croatia

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