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94586 Babesch2011definitief3.Qxp:Babesch Nieuw Nummer Leeg 24-08-2011 11:35 Page 71 94586_BABESCH2011definitief3.qxp:BABesch nieuw nummer leeg 24-08-2011 11:35 Page 71 BABESCH 86 (2011), 71-94. doi: 10.2143/BAB.86.0.2128092. Vinum picenum and oliva picena Wine and Oil Presses in Central Adriatic Italy between the Late Republic and the Early Empire. Evidence and Problems Dimitri Van Limbergen Abstract This paper focuses on the potential contribution of wine and olive oil production to the agrarian economy of Adriatic central Italy between the 2nd century BC and the 2nd century AD. The study area assessed in this paper includes the Marche and northern Abruzzo. The application of a global approach incorporates the analysis of the available evidence in the countryside related to the manufacturing of wine and oil, and the cross-fertilization between archaeological, textual and ceramic documentation. It discusses its associated methodological problems and seeks to determine the production scale of these food products. It also raises the question whether the inte- gration of our sources could allow for a deeper understanding of how these productions fitted within intra and extra regional economic networks. INTRODUCTION between the production and distribution of Dressel 1 and Dressel 2-4 wine amphorae and the The purpose of this paper is to highlight the role political conditions and economic benefits of of wine and olive oil production in the agrarian Gaul.2 There is however a lacuna for Adriatic cen- economy of the Marche and northern Abruzzo tral Italy. This is in part the result of the nature of during the 400-year period following the end of the archaeological record, which at first sight does the Second Punic War (end 3rd century BC). The not seem to feature the large villa complexes that area assessed in this paper covers a territory of cover the coastal areas of Campania, Latium and 11643 km2. It is situated between the Apennine Etruria. It has been suggested by C. Panella and hills and the central Adriatic coast and is charac- A. Tchernia that the low archaeological visibility terised by a comb-shaped geomorphologic struc- of rural sites in the landscape of the Adriatic coast ture in the form of a series of parallel river valleys could be simply due to the use of less noble and descending towards the sea. It was mainly home therefore more perishable building materials in to the Picenian civilisation prior to the Roman Roman times.3 The current state of research in the conquest in 268 BC, with the part of the Marche Marche and northern Abruzzo is another impor- lying north of the Esino river corresponding to the tant factor. Much of our knowledge is based on Ager Gallicus, a territory that was taken from the surface obser vations and partial excavations. A Celtic Senones at the beginning of the 3rd century complete excavation of a villa has yet to be under- BC. During the Early Principate, emperor Augustus taken and no full plan of a large farm building is (25 BC-AD 14) made the Picenian territory the known.4 Recent field surveys in the central and fifth administrative district (Picenum) of the Pro - southern Marche have proven to be of great value vincia Italia. The Ager Gallicus became part of the for the reconstruction of rural settlement patterns sixth regio (Umbria et Ager Gallicus). on a regional level.5 But survey data also have Studies in the production and commercialisation their limitations. They generally offer less precise of wine and olive oil in Late Republican and archaeological and chronological contexts and - as Early Imperial Italy have tended to focus mainly will become clear in the rest of this paper - recog- on the central and southern Tyrrhenian part of the nizing physical evidence for pressing equipment penin sula, where excavations and surveys have can be difficult. Again, the reconstruction of Late shown that many villas were equipped with Republican and Early Imperial economic history presses for the production of wine and olive oil.1 has greatly benefited from the integration of A well-known case has been made for the relation amphora studies. But the study of the distribution 71 94586_BABESCH2011definitief3.qxp:BABesch nieuw nummer leeg 24-08-2011 11:35 Page 72 and commercialisation of central Adriatic wine and bius’ time (2nd century BC). His mentioning of olive oil by means of Lamboglia 2, Dressel 6A and Picenum in relation to the invasion of Hannibal Dressel 6B amphorae still poses many problems. (Hist. 3.8.1) and a general remark by Cato - cited While their consumption sites are relatively well by Varro (Rust. 2.1.7) - regarding a record harvest known, defining their regions of origin has been of 200 hl/ha in the Ager Gallicus form the only less straight forward and the attribution of specific indications for this part of Roman Italy regarding amphora types to specific amphora workshops in the Late Republican economy. Although these the Marche and northern Abruzzo is only at its passages indicate that wine production was obvi- beginning.6 ously present during this period, specific wine This is not to say that a systematic analysis of nominations are lacking. This situation seems to the archaeological record and the combination of change in Augustan and Early Imperial times. information from different sources cannot provide While at the beginning of the 1st century AD Strabo us with valuable insights. This paper first briefly only cautiously praises the region around Ancona, discusses the evidence from amphora studies and which was ‘exceedingly productive of wine and literary sources, before shifting focus towards the wheat’ (Geogr. 5.4.2), a specific wine from Picenum facilities in the countryside that were needed for is mentioned by two Greek Augustan poets in the actual pressing of grapes and olives. The core two epigrams of the Greek Anthology (Anth. Pal. of this section is formed by appendix 1, where all 6.257, 9.232). Antiphilos of Byzantium and archaeological contexts with the remains of press- Antipater of Thessaloniki praise the so called ing equipment and pressing establishments known -δριανν ν/κταρ or the Hadrianum, a wine that is to me are included. These contexts are first clas- again mentioned by Dioscorides in the middle of sified according to their archaeological visibility the 1st century AD as a neighbouring wine of the and current state of preservation. Preliminary so-called Πραιτυτιανς or the Praetutianum (Mat. geographic and chronological patterns are also Med. 5.6.8). The various interpretations of these presented in this part. The most complete press passages - which hint at the favourable apprecia- installations are then reviewed regarding the way tion of this wine by the Greek elite - and the erro- they were systematically organised. Exact dimen- neous identification by Pliny (HN 14.67) of the sions for different pieces of pressing equipment are Ha drianum as a north ern Adriatic wine from the assembled in appendix 2. Finally, the processes of Vene tian region have been amply discussed and vinification and oil-extraction are discussed through do not require further elaboration.8 Pliny (HN an analysis of the best documented pressing facil- 14.60, 67, 75) and Silius Italicus (Pun. 15.568) how- ities. The function of specific pieces of pressing ever were familiar with the Praetutianum and the equipment in these production processes is ex - origins of both wines can now be firmly placed in plained and their usefulness as indicators for dif- the southern part of Picenum, in the Ager Praetu - ferentiating a wine press from an oil press is tianus and the Ager Hadrianus respectively. An- analysed. other important wine from Picenum, the Palmensia, By applying this global approach, this paper situated around Fir mum Picenum (fig. 1), was also aims to determine the scale on which wine and highly praised by Pliny (HN 14.67). The mention- olive oil were produced in the Marche and north- ing of the ‘Picenum’ in Diocletian’s Edict on ern Abruzzo during the Late Republican and Early Maximum Prices in 301 and the presence of the Imperial period. It also seeks to offer a discussion Hadrianum in three Egyp tian papyri in the 3rd cen- platform for research into how the production of tury AD hint at the continuous production and these commodities was integrated in both a regio - export of these Adriatic central wines after the 2nd nal economic network as the more global Roman century AD.9 economy within the wider geographic and com- Ancient authors seem to have been less con- mercial frame of Italy and the Mediterranean.7 cerned with olive oil production and Pliny does not include the region among those producing LITERARY AND CERAMIC EVIDENCE important quantities (HN 14.3.16). Still, Silius Ita - licus (Pun. 6.648-650), Ausonius (Epist. 3.1) and ‘The Abundance of Old Wine’ (Pol. Hist. 3.8.1) especially Martial (Epigr. 1.43.7-8, 4.46.12-13, 4.88.7, 5.78.1721, 7.53.4-5, 9.54.1, 11.52.11, 13.36.1-2) praise If literary sources were the only available sources the region on numerous occasions for its large for reconstructing the agrarian economy of the green olives for consumption famous for their region, we would conclude that wine was already taste among the Roman elite. A recent discovery being produced in large quantities during Poly - of a batch of storage jars in Bliesbruck (Moselle) - 72 94586_BABESCH2011definitief3.qxp:BABesch nieuw nummer leeg 24-08-2011 11:35 Page 73 Fig. 1. Known press installations (1-35) and probable press installations (36-42) in the Marche and northern Abruzzo (map by G. Verhoeven and D. Van Limbergen).
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