THE MARVELS OF NATURE THE MARVELS OF NATURE THE CULTURAL HERITAGE THE CULTURAL HERITAGE The sea The mountains Archaeological sites Where silence reigns

All the provinces of the are on the and, Not only is this a region with splendid sandy beaches and According to Festus the name Pi- After the fall of the , the Marches were on the coast, there are cities with ancient origins that have a SPORT AT THE SEASIDE clear seas, but there are also outstanding areas of natural THE KEY TO GOOD HEALTH: SPA RESORTS cenum derives from the fact ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARKS dominated by the Byzantine exarchate north of long history as ports and markets. For travellers arriving beauty in its mountains: the splendid Monti Sibillini, with that the insignia of the and the Longobards of the Duchy of Spoleto from on the , the first town they reached on The varying types of landscapes that, in places, are Alpine in character; the spec- There are numerous spas specialized in the treatment of who migrated to- Archaeology is a key part of the cultural heritage. The va- to the south; they were then contended by the Em- the sea was ; – at the mouth of the River beaches, and the prox- tacular caves of Frasassi; and the forest-clad mountains in various ailments. In the province of there are the wards Asculum rious provinces in the region are home to 7 archaeolo- pire and the Papal State until the latter gained con- – hosts the Fiera di Sant’Agostino, a traditional fair which re- imity of the hills and the Montefeltro area, forming a backdrop to craggy spurs. Terme Pitinum at Feltria, once a Roman town, (present-day Ascoli Pi- gical parks: Forum Sempronii, in San Martino del Piano trol of the whole area. The long period of adminis- news the age-old mercantile vocation of the city; originally a mountains open up a The most magnificent mountain landscapes in the March- the Terme di Monte Grimano, the Terme di Raffaello at ceno) was a wood- () in the province of Pesaro-, Sen- trative uncertainty and the distance from the papal Picene port, Ancona later became a Greek and a Roman one; whole range of sporting es are to be found in the Monti Sibillini National Park, and the Terme di Carignano, near Fano. At pecker (picus), a bird tinum to the south of and Senonum court in Rome favoured the spread of Benedictine was a rich Picene and Greek port; Porto Sant’El- options, including sailing, Genga, near the , is the renowned Terme sacred to , which in in the , Sep- monasticism into the region from Norcia, in , golf, scuba diving, di San Vittore and near the “Riviera del Conero” is Aspio tempeda in San Severino and Urbs Salvia in Ur- pidio and San Benedetto del Tronto, and other coastal towns alight ed on their stan- bisaglia in the , Falerius Picenus, in and Farfa, in Lazio. The monasteries and abbeys in the province of Asco li Pi- thrilling horseback rides, THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS OF THE MARCHES Terme. Famous in the province of Macerata are the dard; and from this they were built, above all, along the main Roman roads water-skiing and moun- Terme of Santa Lucia at and the Terme di Piane, 2 km from modern-day in the province ceno and , were im- took the name Piceni or of Fermo, and Cupra Maritima to the north of the villa- – the Via Flaminia and the Via Salaria – and the val- portant Picene and Roman tain biking. Then, there A journey across the environmental treasures of the , close to the Monti Sibillini. In the provinces of Picentes. The discovery leys leading from the Adriatic to the Apennines, are the beach volleyball Marches can be enriched by stopping off at the numer- and Fermo there are the new Terme di ge of Cupra Marittima in the province of Ascoli Piceno. ports. Many of the coastal Acquasanta already known in Roman times and, at Torre of various cemeteries These parks are also home to related museums. such as those of the rivers , , , towns of the region are still tournaments on the won- The palm-lined promenade ous nature and palaeontology museums in the region: scattered between the and the . The Benedictines from Norcia derfully fine sand and the di Palme, perched above the sea near Fermo, the Sta- (www.cultura.marche.it – www.archeomarche.it). active ports: Ancona is a at San Benedetto del Tronto , , and Piobbico rivers Foglia to the north built the basilicas of San Michele at Lamoli, in the up- opportunities for free in the Pesaro area; Genga, , Ostra, and Serra bilimento Idropinico Palmense del Piceno. The head of a Picene large commercial port, while and to the south, per Metauro valley; San Vincenzo al Furlo, on the Via climbing on the white cliffs rising sheer above the Adri- San Quirico near Ancona; the abbey, , warrior from Numana San Benedetto del Tronto, atic. At Vallugola, Ancona, Portonovo, , Numana Macerata, , Sarnano and Serravalle del Chienti in Abruzzi, has revealed Flaminia; San Firmano at , near the A centre of pilgrimage: Sanctuary of the Santa Casa, Loreto together with Fano, Civi- and , one can still enjoy spearfishing. Yacht ports around Macerata; , Fermo, and the existence – from the mouth of the River Potenza; and Santi Ruffino e Vi- tanova Marche and Porto are also plentiful: (Vallugola), Pesaro, in the vicinity of Fermo and Ascoli Piceno in the eighth to the first centuries B.C. – of what is known as the tale at Amandola, near the River . The Bene- tradition are Santa Maria di Portonovo, at the foot of San Giorgio are the main fish- Fano, Senigallia, Ancona, Numana, province bearing the same name. Picene culture, which flourished in the area in central dictines from Farfa, on the other hand, settled in the Monte Conero, near Ancona, and Santa Maria a piè ing ports. This vicinity to the and San Benedetto del Tronto. The harbour of Marina di bordering the Adriatic Sea until it was conquered by the Ro- area round Ascoli Piceno, arriving from Lazio along di Chienti at . In the Marches there The beach at Gabicce Mare sea has favoured the devel- with its 800 berths deserves a special mans. The most important burial sites, with rich grave the Via Salaria; the most important of the abbeys are also two splendid examples of Cistercian abbeys opment of an excellent cui- mention for being the largest yacht port in the Adriatic. which is about 40km (25 miles) in length and extends into goods, have been found at Novilara (province of Pesaro), Nu- they founded was Santa Vittoria in Matenano. The in which the transition between the Romanesque sine in the region and has led to the growth of the tourist in- Umbria. From the summits of Monte Vettore (2,476 m), mana and (province of Ancona), and Piti- only abbeys belonging to the Burgundian-Cluniac and Gothic styles is evident: the abbey of Santa dustry since sea-bathing first came into vogue among the up- Monte Sibilla and Monte Priora – described by the poet Gi- no (province of Macerata) and (province Maria in Casta gnola at per middle classes in the mid-19th century. In the course of of visitors from Italy and acomo Leopardi as the “blue mountains” – to the valley of of Fermo). After being the site of a Bronze Age settlement and THE “ROUTES OF FAITH” IN THE MARCHES Chiaravalle, founded by time, bathing establishments, sports facilities and hotels abroad. The coast of the THE MUSEUMS the Fia strone and the Gole dell’Infernaccio, nature is com- then an important Picene town, in about 390 B.C. Ancona be- the monks of Clairvaux; were built in the seaside resorts of the Marches, which, par- Marches has numerous at- ON THE COAST bined with the legends of the Sibyl, a soothsayer who was came the home of a group of refugees who arrived from the and the abbey of Chia - ticularly after the Second World War, have welcomed millions tractions for visitors, but said to have lived in a cave on Monte Sibilla, Guerrin Greek colony of Syracuse, in ; living side by side with the The routes of faith in the Marches follow three main roads, on which abbeys, Francis- ravalle di Fiastra, near Those interested in the sea can hermitages and sanctuaries are marked. The Via Flaminia and its variations run the greatest of all are the Meschino (a character from the Ca rolingian epos) and Pon- The Monti Sibillini covered with snow Picenes, they set up a thriving port that traded with the east- , founded by TOWNS AND VILLAGES LOOKING OUT OVER THE SEA fine, smooth sands, ex- and maritime history may tius Pilate, after whom the only natural lake in the March- ern Mediterranean. The nearby town of Numana, an old through the valley dotted with abbeys monks from the abbey tending from Gabicce Mare, satisfy their curiosity in var- es (Lago di Pilato, high up on Monte Vettore) is named. And ronmental Education of Valleremita. Worth seeing in the Picene port, also had important trading relations with the that, from Ancona, follow the River Esino of Chiaravalle near Mi- ious museums: at Pesaro towards Rome. Senigallia is where Pope From the beaches of the Marches it is easy to trav- where the beach is over- at the foot of the mountains are scattered numerous towns province of Macerata are the Monte San Vicino with the an- Greek civilization. In the fourth and third centuries B.C., the lan. Centrally-planned the Museo della marineria cient beechwoods of Canfaito, recognized as a natural re- central and northern Marches up to Esino were occupied by Pius IX was born, while is the el inland up the numerous valleys to the historic looked by the Monte San and villages, each with its own church and, in many cases, land of St. Maria Goretti. The Via Laure- buildings include San Bartolo and the fortress of pesarese “Washington Pa tri- a museum containing relics of its eventful past. A small part serve; the maquis of Montenero at and the valley of the Gallic tribes known as the . The most important Ciriaco in Ancona, built towns, or to visit the old towns and villages on the gnani” (tel. 0721387474); at tana and its side roads, which from the heights overlooking the coast. There are medieval , southwards to Pe- of the Marches, comprising the communes of Acquasanta the Grilli that ends in the S. Eustachio Gorge, which is sur- settlements of this people – who produced splendid jewellery Santa Casa at Loreto, a centre of pilgrim- on a pre-existing Greek saro, Fano, Marotta, Fal- San Benedetto del Tronto Terme and Arquata del Tronto, lies within the borders of the rounded by the caves of the same name. Between the now exhibited at the Museo archeologico nazionale delle centuries they conquered the rest of the region, building temple dedicated to castles like Gabicce Monte, Casteldimezzo and there are the Museo delle age since the 15th century, leads to the Fiorenzuola di Focara and fortified villages like conara M., Porto , Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park. On the communes of and , at the foot Marche – have been found at and Senigallia. After the roads, such as the Via Flaminia, which still links Rome to Aphrodite Euploia, and anfore “G. Perotti” (tel. Fano, and the Via Salaria, which they used to transport salt Romanesque route along the valley of the with Marotta, Falconara Alta with Fal- Porto , Civi- 0735592177), the Museo border with , the Regional Park of Sasso Simone of the Monti Sibillini, is the Montagna di Torricchio Nature battle of in 295 B.C. between an alliance of the Chienti, the Basilica of San Nicola da To- San Giusto di Maroto at conara Marittima, with Marina di tanova Marche, Porto San- and Simoncello, in the Montefeltro region, is well known Reserve, recognized as a biogenetic reserve by the Coun- and the Samnites and one of the Romans and Picenes, from Porto d’Ascoli. Along them, the Romans founded lentino, at Tolentino, and the 16th-centu- Pievebovi gliana. There ittico (tel. 0735588850), the colonies and municipia (provincial cities whose citizens Montemarciano, Sirolo, Numana, Recanati with Por- t’Elpidio, Casabianca di Fer- Museo della civiltà marinara for the large beechwood of Pianacquadio. In the 16th cen- cil of Europe. Whereas the Cistercian abbey of Chiaravalle in the area between Camerino and Sassoferrato, the Ro- ry Sanctuary of Macereto, surrounded by are four churches built to Recanati, Potenza Picena with Porto Potenza Pi- mo, Pedaso, Porto San Gior- tury, on the rock of Sasso Simone, the Medici built a forti- di Fiastra is included in the other nature reserve, Abbadia mans occupied the territory of the Gauls, stressing its cultural had the privileges of Roman citizens), evidence of which is the splendid peaks of the Monti Sibillini. on the Greek-cross plan (tel. 073586855), the Pina- still clearly visible today in the grid plans of a number of cena, Civitanova Alta with Civitanova Marche, San- gio, Cupra Marittima and coteca del Mare (tel. 0735 fied town that was later abandoned because it was not eas- di Fiastra, famed for its agricultural landscape that is still distinctiveness by calling it . Over the next two Finally, there is the Via Salaria and its of Byzantine derivation, t’Elpidio a Mare with Porto Sant’Elpidio, Porto San Grottammare up to San 794588) and at Cupra Marit- ily accessible. There are many areas of outstanding na tural distinctly medieval in appearance. towns (Pesaro, Fano, Senigallia, Jesi, Ascoli Piceno) and in the off-shoots, Grottammare, the birthplace of three of which are situ- Giorgio with the Marina, Fermo with Torre di Palme, Benedetto del Tronto fa- tima the Museo malaco- beauty in the province of Pesaro and Urbino, such as the (Information: Parco nazionale dei monti Sibillini, ancient monuments, such as Trajan’s Arch at Ancona; on the Pope Sixtus V, with the fascinating town of ated fairly close to each Cupra Alta (or Marano) with Cupra Marittima, Grot- mous for its many tall palm- logico piceno (tel. Cesane pinewood between Urbino and Fossom brone. Not tel. 0737972711; Parco nazionale del Gran Sasso e mon- Via Flaminia, the Arch of Augustus at Fano, Vespasian’s tunnel Ripatransone nearby; Monteprandone, other: Santa Croce dei tammare Alta with Grottammare and San Benedet- trees (about seven thou- 0735777550). far away is the massif of the Furlo, with its suggestive ti della Laga, tel. 086260521; Parco regionale del Sasso (76 A.D.) in the Gola del Furlo, and bridges, such as Ponte whence came Saint James della Marca; Conti at Sassoferrato, to del Tronto with the Gualtieri tower. sand), which lend the town gorge, recently recognized as a national natural reserve; the Simone e Simoncello, tel. 0722770073; Parco regionale Mallio at , Ponte Grosso at Pontericcioli ( area); and the area where the Benedictines from San Vittore delle Chiuse an exotic air. Known as “the Alpe della Luna, after ; and the della Gola della Rossa e di Frasassi, tel. 073186122; Ri- on the Via Salaria, Porta Gemina and Ponte del Solestà at A - Farfa settled. The whole of this area, from at Genga and Santa velvet beach”, the one at area of Monte Catria and Monte Nerone, with its many serva naturale Abbadia di Fiastra, tel. 0733201049; Ri- scoli Piceno. The equestrian group in gilded bronze found at Fermo and Ascoli Piceno to the Monti Maria delle Moje at PARKS BY THE SEA di Pergola is particularly interesting, as is the Sibillini National Park, is rich in Ro- Senigallia is particularly fa- gorges and natural arches. The province of Ancona also serva naturale Gola del Furlo, tel. 0721700041; Riserva The Basilica of San Nicola da Tolentino, ; the naturale Montagna di Tor ricchio, tel. 0737404512- sculpture in bronze attributed to Lysippus found in the wa- manesque buildings, hermitages, abbeys mous and has been a tourist boasts the Gola Rossa and Frasassi Regional Park, with and sanctuaries. Tolentino fourth, in the Chienti The two regional nature parks on the coast of the Marches provide an opportunity to spend attraction since the 20th cen- many rocky areas crossed by the two gorges of the same 0737404517; Riserva naturale Ripa Bianca, tel. ters off Fano and currently on display at the Getty Museum valley, is San Claudio al a holiday combining the joys of an unspoilt natural environment with the pleasures of the tury. Near Ancona and the name, the habitat of golden eagles, peregrine falcons and 0731619213; Riserva naturale regionale del monte San in Malibù, Cali fornia. Numerous relics from Picene, Gallic and Chienti, built on two lev- Roman times are to be found in the archaeological museums seaside. Between Gabicce Mare and Pesaro there is the promontory of Conero, an off- eagle owls. Nearby Fabriano there is the Centre of Envi- Vicino e del monte Canfaito, tel. 0733637245). A DANTEAN LOCATION: THE MONASTERY OF FONTE AVELLANA els with a façade Monte San Bartolo Regional Park (tel. 0721400858), where shoot of the Apennines form- (Ancona, Arcevia, Urbino, Pesaro, Pergola, Cingoli, Urbisaglia flanked by two round it is possible to go for hikes and guided tours. The park com- ing the only headland jutting and Ascoli Piceno) and the numerous archaeological parks corner-towers. prises an area of wetlands of national importance and is the into the Adriatic between Is- A MIRACLE WORKED BY WATER AND TIME: THE FANTASTIC CAVES OF FRASASSI (Fossombrone, Sassoferrato, Castellone di Suasa, San Seve- It was Saint Romuald, the founder of winter habitat of the herring gull, the Mediterranean gull and tria and the Gargano promon- Gilded bronze from Cartoceto di Pergola rino Marche, Urbisaglia, Falerone and Cupra Marittima). the Camaldolese order, who, in 1006, The caves of Frasassi, in the heart of the Gola della Rossa constructed the abbey of San Salvatore FRANCISCAN MARCHES the cormorant. On the coast there are picturesque rocky tory in , there are rocky DRAMA IN THE OPEN AIR coves with small beaches. The Monte Conero Regional Park coves where the seabed is and Frasassi Regional Park and the gorge of the same name in Val di Castro, near Fabriano, where he (tel. 0719331161), includes woods of holm-oak and downy visible through the clear blue formed by the River Sentino, are one of the most inter- died in 1027, thereby inspiring the monks The Marches were hea- oak, and there are large areas of Mediterranean scrub. The water. On this stretch of coast esting systems of limestone caves in Italy. After the dis- In the Roman theatres and amphitheatres of the who built the monastery of Fonte Avel- vily influenced by St Grotta Grande del Vento lana, on the slopes of Monte Catria. In park is an excellent place to see passage-migrants such as there are hidden bays and covery in 1971 of the , the caves Marches it is possible to enjoy an amusing comedy Francis of Assisi, his were opened to the public in 1974 and now attract thou- by the Roman playwright Plautus or a compelling this secluded place deep in the woods, presence can be traced the long-legged buzzard, the honey buzzard and the marsh the enchanting small har- sands of visitors every year. With its fascinating series of ideal for meditation – mentioned by harrier. Numerous fascinating hikes are possible in the bours of Portonovo, Sirolo Greek tragedy. During the summer, drama produc- back to 1208. In 1282, small lakes, exquisite stalactites and gigantic stalagmites, tions are housed in the 1st century A.D. Roman am- Dante in the twenty-first canto of the the province of Marca park and the coastal waters are ideal for boat trips. Another and Numana, which also at- the underground tour – comprising the lofty cavern called Paradiso – Saint Peter Damian took Regional Nature Reserve is the Sentina (tel. 0735794278- phitheatre of Urbisaglia, in the province of Macera- had 85 monasteries. tract visitors in spring, when the Abisso Ancona (240m in height), the Sala dei Duecen- monastic vows in 1035; he also fre- Following St Francis has 0735794279), between Porto d’Ascoli to the north and the ta, and the theatre in the Roman town of Faleria Monte Conero is covered to, the Sala delle Candeline, the Sala dell’Orsa and the Sala (modern Falerone, in the ) da- quented the church of Santa Maria di marked the cultural and Tronto river to the south. This is a land of sand and water, with broom, and the autumn, dell’Infinito – is enhanced by the spectacular use of light- ting from the 1st century A.D. Both of these are lo- Portonovo, at the foot of Monte Conero. religious history of the with sandbanks, salt marshes and wetlands that are home when it is mantled with the ing. (Information: Consorzio Frasassi; tel. 073290090- cated in archaeological parks with museums. (Information: Monastero di Fonte Avel- Marches. (www.france The “Riviera del Conero” to 143 bird species. warm colours of the straw- 073290080, www.frasassi.com). Roman amphitheatre (1st century A.D.), Urbisaglia (Information: www.amatmarche.net). lana, tel. 0721730261). The Camaldolese monastery of Fonte Avellana scanesimomarche.it) berry tree ().

PERFORMANCE AND CELEBRATION PERFORMANCE AND CELEBRATION THE CULTURAL HERITAGE THE CULTURAL HERITAGE Music and theatre Pageants The historic towns and cities Fortresses and castles

Those wishing to get to know the Marches properly folclore Terrano stra; and at concerts fea- In the context of a region particularly rich in culture the In the Marches, the historic towns and cities – about a In the Marches – which, as its name implies, is a border area should not fail to visit the historic cities and ancient turing leading singers of popular and folk music take Marches relive their heritage every year with horse races and RELIGIOUS FEASTS hundred, out a total of 246 municipalities – are evidence IN THE SEARCH OF – the distance from the centre of imperial power favoured the villages when concerts and plays are being staged. It place. At , the world accordian capi- historical pageants. Medieval festivals often group togeth- of the cultural pluralism that has evolved over the cen- development of self-governing communes that subsequen - is possible to enjoy early music in the Ancona tal, an International contest for soloists and groups er different art forms such as dance, music and theatre to cre- Over the centuries, the Marches have maintained a turies as a result of the fragmented historical develop- In the 15th century Ascoli Piceno had a distinguished tly, in the 14th and 15th centuries, became independent province with the Festival Cantar lontano, in Urbino, using the accordion is held. In a region boasting no ate a harmonious combination of tradition and creativity. In number of events linked to specific religious feasts. The ment of the region. In citizen, the Venetian artist Carlo Crivelli, who, with his states ruled by families that were continuously in conflict with there is an International festival of early music in July the province of Pesaro and Urbino a number of events are tradition of the Christmas nativity scene, with three ded- the province of Pesaro followers, executed superb paintings animated by each other. These origins explain why there are so many that combines courses specializing in the various in- IT’S TIME FOR A SMILE associated with the history of the noble families that used to icated museums at Macerata, and Tolentino, and Urbino, the largest splendidly arrayed saints that are to be found in the fortresses and castles in the area, where there was a lively cul- struments and at Loreto an International choir festival rule the area. At Piandimeleto, in July, the Palio dei Conti Oli- is still very much alive in the region. There are numer- towns were at the areas around Fermo, Ascoli and Macerata. From Ascoli tural milieu conducive to the experimentation of the leading takes place in April. As regards classical music at an va, linked to the Malatesta, celebrates life at court. In Urbino ous artistic, mechanical and living nativity scenes dis- height of their power in Piceno, with its cathedral, Pinacoteca and Museo dioce- military architects of the day. In the area corresponding to the international level, in July and August, there is the One of the best-known events is the Festa del Duca takes place on the third Sunday of August; played every year in extremely picturesque settings. The the peri- sano our search for Crivelli’s works takes us to ancient, present-day province of Pesaro and Urbino, the Malatesta Castello della Rancia in the heart of the Chienti valley opera season the Sferisterio in Macerata and the Rossi- the International Biennial this is a pageant in 15th-century costumes, with parades and main episodes of the Passion are staged at Cantiano, od: Fano and Gradara unspoilt towns and villages such as Montefiore del- were the first to take an interest in the new defensive ni Opera Festival (ROF) in Pesaro, and the Festival Per- Humour in Art held in Tolentino contests along medieval themes. At the Caccia al , Loreto (Villa ) and Pioraco on Good were governed by the l’ in the province of Ascoli Piceno, and Massa schemes, availing themselves of the suggestions of Filippo the Papal State, dominates the valleys of the rivers Corpus Christi golesi Spontini, organized by the same name Founda- in odd years, a traditional global Cinghiale (Boar-Hunt) takes place in August, recall the Friday. is a day when there are splendid Malatesta; Urbino was Fermana in the province of Fermo, continuing Monte Brunelleschi and the experience of Matteo Nuti for the and Misa with its external wall intact. Further up the Misa val- appointment with satire and flower displays all over the region. At Loreto, on 9 De- fortress of Fano ley, Arcevia and its castles exude a medieval atmosphere. In tion of Jesi. Other numerous events of interest are: at favourite pastime of the local nobility. Medieval times are cember, at night there is particularly fascinating feast to the scene of the hu- San Martino (church of S. Martino) and . Their example was followed by the Sforza at Camerino there is an International chamber music fes- contemporary humour. At evoked at Gradara, where Francesca di and her broth- celebrate the translation of the Holy House. A number of manist ambitions of (parish picture gallery), Macerata (civic picture Gradara and Pesaro (the Rocca Costanza, built by Luciano the next valley going southwards are Jesi, with its castles of tival in August; at Fermo the International Violin com- Grottammare a festival of er-in-law, Paolo, are said to have fallen in love (this story is religious events are also linked to the harvest festival, Federico da Montefel- gallery) and Ancona (civic picture gallery). Laurana). The Montefeltro, on the other hand, employed the , and Fabriano, surrounded by its forts. Some of the petition “Andrea Postacchini” and in the provinces of humour entitled Cabaret mentioned in Dante’s Inferno) with the Assedio al Castello. for example the Covo Festival at Campocavallo di tro; Pesaro, (Information: www.cultura.marche.it). most fascinating castles in Fermo and Ascoli the Armonie della sera, a chamber amore mio is held in July and Three pageants are concerned with games: in August at and the procession of the harvest baskets at Amandola. (formerly known as ART IN A HISTORICAL SETTING the region are close to each music festival. Recanati August. The Theatres of the Cagli the Palio dell’Oca features a gigantic chessboard, and Castel Durante, it was other in the province of THE MARCHES, pays tribute to the great World, the most important the first Sunday after Easter at there is the Palio sa alla Spada, in Porta Malatesta, Camerino famous for its produc- most visited Macera ta: surrounded their A MUSICAL LAND tenor Beniamino Gigli festival of children’s theatre della Rana and the first Sunday of September the Gran pre- May, involves a tion of maiolica) and sanctua ries Many of the castles and palaces in the Marches host events and house exhibitions or city with an imposing se- twice a year with the in Italy, takes place at Porto trial of strength Senigallia were ruled by the Della Rovere family. The his- in the world, permanent museums. Cagli’s Torrione contains a Centro di scultura contemporanea (con- ries of castles of which at Commemorazioni gigliane Sant’Elpidio in July, while tory of Ancona has always been closely linked to its port, where the Camerino the Rocca d’Aiel- In order to find out all in which the com- temporary art works by E. Mattiacci, J. Kounellis, H. Nagasawa etc.), while the fortress held in March on his the National Festival of the second lo and the Rocca Varano; at about the great musi- petitors have to artists of Sassocorvaro houses “L’ Arca dell’Art e” a museum commemorating the rescuing of Castel- cians it is necessary to birthday and in Novem- Theatre for Schools is held at extract a sword in impor- Melozzo da thousands works of art during the Second World War. The fortress at Gradara boasts Re- the ber to mark the anniver- in April and tance to Forlì, Luca naissance paintings, while its counterpart at Mondavio contains a Museo di rievocazione lo di Lanciano; at Caldaro- visit the places where from a log; du - storica and the Armeria. The Ducal Palace at Urbino houses the Galleria Nazionale delle they have lived sary of his May. ring the first Venice on Signo relli, la the Castello Pallotta and death. At Seni- the Italian Bramante, Marche and at Piobbico there is a Museo geo-paleontologico, naturalistico, antropico e orni- the Palazzo dei Cardinali and pore over week in July, in tologico with a permanent exhibition devoted to the costumes and jewels of a noble house the documents gallia an Inter- the Palio dei side of the Andrea San - (town hall), at Tolentino national piano less than 70 historical theatres, there is certainly no lack Adriatic. sovino and in Palazzo Brancaleoni. The fortress at Senigallia has a permanent exhibition on the Del- the Castello della Rancia associated Castelli at San la Rovere family, while Offagna’s fortress hosts a Museo delle armi antiche and stages a with them. In contest and at of events involving this Severino Marche The old part Loren zo Lot- and at Urbisaglia the mas- Grottammare art form. These include THE MARCHES of the city is to worked. medieval festival in July. The Castello della Rancia at Tolentino houses the Museo civico sive fortress. In the Pesaro there the competitors archeologico Palio the Liszt Festi- the seasons of classical dominated dedicated to Aristide Gentiloni Silverj and temporary exhibitions. The province of Ascoli Piceno – are Gioacchino AND THE CINEMA run a race carry- Near Loreto del Duca is held in the fortress of , which also has a museum of ancient Rossini’s house val. In recent thea tre at Urbisaglia and ing high “tow- by the Ro- is Osimo , a weapons, as does the fortress of Urbisaglia. Castel di Luco is now a restaurant. on or near the Via Salaria – and the Tempi- years, numer- Falerone, which last the For some time now impor- ers” weighing up manesque town with Loggiato of S. Francesco opening onto the are Arquata del Tronto etto rossiniano; ous fe stivals whole summer; Renais- tant festivals, the only ones to 70 kilograms. cathedral of Roman ori- piazza del , Fabriano at Maiolati of light and sance theatre at Urbino of their kind in Italy, have In this period at San Ciriaco, gins. Inland PASSION IN GRADARA Spon tini, there contemporary in July and August; been held in the Marches. Mogliano there while impor- from Ancona is the Esino valley dominated by Jesi, with is the Gaspare Spontini music have been found- avant-garde thea tre at In June the International The Contesa del Secchio takes place on the second Sunday The Quintana is held on the first Sunday is Mogliano 1744; tant buil- its ancient walls. Further up the valley, the city of Fa- museum, in the compos- Gradara, with its castle and ed: at Fano, in the sum- in July and New Cinema Festival takes of August at Sant’Elpidio a Mare of August at Ascoli Piceno at Montecas- dings bear briano, world famous for its paper production, has kept er’s last home, the house old medieval centre, com- mer the well-known Jazz Amandola in September; place in Pesaro; in July the mio del Biciclo Ottocentesco. At Serra Sant’Abbondio the sec- siano the Palio dei Terzieri takes place at the end of July; at witness to its medieval appearance intact. In the province of Mac- where he was born, his by the Sea festival, at Mac- to the summer season the city’s erata is Camerino, which enjoyed a period of great eco- bines the past with the pre- Libero Bizzari Italian Na- ond Sunday of September the famous Palio della Rocca. In the the Giostra de le Castella in August, the sent thanks to the presence tomb and the Parco Ce- erata in June, the Musi- of the Teatro alle cave tional Documentary Festival prosperity nomic and artistic importance in the 15th century under leste Erard, named after province of Ancona the most famous pageants held in July Battaglia della Fornarina with the Palio di San Ginesio and the of major contemporary ex- cultura, a pop and folk fes- at Sirolo; from drama is held in San Benedetto del are: Corinaldo on the third Sunday with the Contesa del Poz- first Sunday of September at Corridonia the Contesa della and growth the Da Varano family. From Camerino it is only a few miles his wife; at Recanati a tival, while in Senigallia events of the Gad Na- in the 15th to Tolentino, where the chapel of the Basi lica of San Nico- hibitions. The city – the Me- museum devoted to the Tronto; in October the Fano zo della Polenta with a parade in costume; , where Margutta. Curious 19th-century pageants are Cingoli 1848, in dieval Capital – is one of during the summer the tional Festival held at Pe- Film Festival features inde- the Contesa dello Stivale commemorates an episode of the war period costume with carriages, in August, and the Disfida del century. la contains some of the most outstanding frescoes by the tenor Benia mino Gigli is Summer Jamboree cele- saro to the fe stival Just a few Italy's “Most Beautiful Ham- pendent cinema from Italy between the town and the nearby city of Osimo; Offagna, Bracciale at , which, in the first week of August, com- 14th-century Riminese School. Nearby is the small town lets” and has been awarded housed in the Teatro known as I teatri invisi- brates the legendary and abroad. The Regional where, during the medieval festival of the Contesa della Cres- memorates the famous gambler from this town Carlo Didimi miles from of which, in the 14th and 15th cen- the Bandiera Arancione (Or- Persiani. It boasts the fifties. At Ascoli Piceno bili, held at San Bene - Ancona, in turies, became one of the European centres of interna- largest collection of doc- Council has dedicated par- cia, there is a contest involving a challenge with the crossbow, immortalized by the great poet in an ode ange Flag). An ideal place and province the con- detto del Tronto in Sep- ticular attention to the so- bow, mace and spear. Fabriano, where on 24 June – during the he devoted to him. In Ascoli Piceno, on the first Sunday of Au- the town of tional Gothic thanks to the brothers Lorenzo and Ja- to celebrate Valentine's Day, uments and memorabil- certs of the Ascoli Piceno tember. There is also an Loreto there copo Salimbeni. Macerata is rich in Renaissance, Baroque ia ever dedicated to an called seventh art, with its commemoration of the city’s patron saint, , gust, there is the Quintana, in which more than a thousand it remains shrouded in the Festival are held during event focusing on is one of the A view of Ascoli Piceno and 18th-century architecture. Southwards is Fermo, opera singer. Marche Cinema portal and to whom the Palio is dedicated – the local craft of wrought iron participants tilt at a heavy, revolving effigy of a Saracen. mystery of the love between The village of Gradara the summer; Ancona dance: Civitanova Dan- Marche Film Commission. is celebrated in the final Sfida del Maglio; Jesi, where, in The other events of the province in August are: Arquata del an important Roman The fortress built by Francesco di Giorgio Martini at Mondavio Paolo and Francesca that Jazz, the oldest jazz fes- za at Civitanova Marche (Information: www.cultura. May, the Palio di San Floriano recalls the subjection of the city Tronto the Alla corte della Regina (At the Queen’s Court) with THE LAND OF THE DUKES colony and flourishing me- Dante Alighieri told us about in Inferno. tival in the region; at San Severino the San Severino and Fabriano hosts the marche.it). to the nearby castles on the hills where Verdicchio wine is medieval costumes and a banquet, and nearby at Pretare, dieval city. Still further remarkable talents of Blues Marche Festival is held in July and in San Benedet- Festival Poiesis. produced. In the province of Macerata, at Ca merino, the Cor- where the Discesa delle fate (Descent of the Fairies) is held south is Ripatransone, a Francesco di Giorgio Mar- with its 13th-century fortress dominating the valley and the to del Tronto the Festival In the former , ruled by the Monte- small but delightful town, tini for their defensive every three years, at Spelonga is held the Festa Bella, a feltro and, from 1508 onwards, by the Della Rovere, old Roman road, on the southern slopes of the Monti Sibilli- Leo Ferrè is held in June. HISTORICAL THEATRES pageant of the battle of Lepanto, which lasts for the whole of with numerous archaeo- works – the fortresses of ni, near Acquasanta Terme the Ca stel di Luco with its unusual Another important mu- PAGAN FEASTS AND CARNIVAL there are various routes that allow the visitor to dis- logical relics and historic Sassocorvaro, Monte Ce ri- August every three years, and at Acquaviva Picena there is cover the places associated with the political and cul- circular plan, Ascoli Piceno with the imposing Forte Mala- sical event is the Adriatic buildings. A few miles gnone, Fossombrone, Cagli With more than 70 historical theatres – it’s easy to see why the Palio del Duca. In the province of Fermo on the third week tural history of the ducal family. Urbino, Pesaro, Ur- testa, and the Castello di Acquaviva Picena, rebuilt in the 15th Mediterranean Festival, In July the city of Fano relives ancient Roman splendours the Marches are known as the land of theatres – opera, sym- of July, Sant’Elpidio a Mare became La città medioevo and the bania, Fossombrone and Senigallia still have their away Offida, with its in- and – and their res- century by Baccio Pontelli. with its concerts, plays, with its Fano dei Cesari, involving Roman-style dining in tact walls, still has a idences, the ducal palaces phony concerts, dance and drama are staged. Mostly its restaurants transformed into authentic Roman ta- Contesa del Secchio takes place on the second Sunday of Au- ducal palaces. Cagli, Mondavio and Sassocorvaro exhibitions, meetings, splendid examples of 18th- and 19th-century architecture, verns, historical processions, chariot races and Roman gust bringing to life medieval splendours of the past. are on the route devoted to the fortresses built to de- fortress and the splendid The imposing fortress at Offagna at Urbino and Urbania. The films and initiatives in- they range from large sumptuous ones, like those in Pesaro, army camps. One of the oldest and prestigious carnival pa- In August at the Torneo Cavalleresco di San fend the duchy, largely rebuilt by the architect abbey of S. Maria della Della Rovere left their mark volving artists from dif- Macerata and Ascoli Piceno to smaller ones notable for their rades in the region also takes place at Fano: there are hu- Francesco di Giorgio Martini for Fe derico da Monte- Rocca. In Ascoli Piceno, on the fortress of Mondavio, the Ducal Palace of Pesaro and original stage machinery such as the one at Offida. While Clementino and at the I Giorni Di Azzolino. On ferent countries to help ge floats, followed by a b o n f i re on which the effigy of 15 August at Fermo in the Ca valcata dell’Assunta ten knights feltro. The museums of Urbino, Pesaro, Urbania and Roman remains and me- the magnificent Villa Imperiale at Pesaro, rebuilt and ex- spread a culture of peace others are miniature masterpieces, such as the theatre at the feast is burnt. Besides the carnival of Ascoli Piceno, dieval buildings in weath- tended by Girolamo Genga. Further south, Senigallia, where and the Teatro della Rocca at Sassocorvaro. In Jesi, the Teatro G.B. Pergolesi in costume gallop through the streets of the town. As far as Fossombrone and religious buildings, such as the and cooperation among S. Benedetto del Tronto, and Matelica, one of the best- religious feasts are concerned, mention must also be made monastery of Montefiorentino, where there is the ered travertine, the local there is a fortress and ducal palace built by the Della Rovere, people. There are nu- is well-known for the decoration of its ceiling by Felice Giani; the Teatro Gentile in Fabri- known and most spectacular is the carnival of Offida, whi- stone, testify to the city’s is the gateway to the fortresses and castles of the province ano has the best acoustics of all the theatres in the Marches. A permanent exhibition de- of L’Armata di Pentecoste e Sciò la Pica at , com- splendid 15th-century chapel of the Oliva family, and merous events related to ch is divided into two parts: on carnival Friday, Lu Bov Fint, memorating the arrival of the Sabines in the Marches, and the collegiate church of Mercatello sul Metauro, con- glorious past, as does the of Ancona: the imposing fortress of Offagna recalls the battles voted to the history of the theatre has been opened in the Teatro dell’Aquila at Fermo. Oth- involving the carnivalesque frolics of a mock ox, and, on folk and popular music: er historical theatres are: Le Muse at Ancona, Misa at Arcevia, La Vittoria at Ostra, La spectacular fireworks of the Cavallo di Fuoco at Ripatransone tain works of art c ommissioned to satisfy the refined Via Salaria, traces of between Ancona and the nearby town of Osimo; at Fal- in August at there Shrove Tu e s d a y, the Sfilata dei Vlurd. Pagan festivals in- tastes of the dukes. (Information: IAT Urbino, tel. which have survived, of- conara, it is possible to visit the Rocca Priora, with its portal Fortuna at Fano, Comunale at Cagli with its lavish neo-Baroque forms, La Fenice at Os- clude Halloween, celebrated in Corinaldo from 29 to 31 Oc- on the first Sunday after Easter. is the festival entitled Fes- imo and the Mercantini at Ripatransone. (Information: www.amatmarche.net). (Information: Associazione marchigiana rievocazioni storiche, Ducal Palace, Urbino 07222613; IAT Fano, tel. 0721803534). ten incorporated into the designed by Luigi Vanvitelli, and the castle in the high town. tival internazionale del tober. Urbania celebrates one of Italy’s most famous Ch- medieval structures. Inland, Corinaldo, subjected first to the Malatesta and then Arquata del Tronto dominated by its fortress ristmas characters, the Befana, from 2nd to 6th January. www.rievocazionimarche.it).

SHOPPING AND GOOD FOOD SHOPPING AND GOOD FOOD THE CULTURAL HERITAGE THE CULTURAL HERITAGE The culinary delights A land of a hundred crafts A region studded with museums Did you know…

From the delicious fish of the Adriatic to the tasty dishes Comunanza, where the coppersmiths continue an age-old Art treasures, bearing witness to the glorious paintings by Lorenzo Lotto, in Fabriano the Perhaps not everybody The region is also the of the hills and mountains, the Marches offer an incredi- WINE FESTIVALS AND MUSEUMS tradition. The Marches also boast a city, Jesi, where there cultural past of this region are kept in the Pinacoteca civica reflects the lively artistic knows that in the March- birthplace of such con- ble variety of food cooked in the traditional manner. There are numerous goldsmiths’ workshops., present also at 400 museums and art collections in both climate of the city that was the birth- es there are 500 piazzas temporary artists as En- are a vast number of recipes for fish, often very similar Generally speaking, a long festival during the year or vis- Fano and Fossombrone. first opened its the larger historic cities and small place of , the great- in the centres of the his- zo Cucchi, Eliseo Matti- its to the wineries are devoted to each of the numerous right along the coast: there are, however, various ver- T.A.M. (Centre for Artistic Metal-working) in the sum- towns and villages of the Marches. The est exponent of international Gothic. At toric towns and ancient acci, Arnaldo and Giò sions of the brodetto (fish soup), including those of San DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) wines of most outstanding of these is the Galle- Matelica, not far from Fabriano, the re- villages; thousands of Pomodoro (1930–2002), the Marches. The best-known of the region’s wines is mer of 1990, assisted by the well-known sculptor Arnaldo Benedetto del Tronto, made with green peppers, and Por- the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, celebrated in October Pomodoro. Since then the centre has fostered metal- ria Nazionale delle Marche, situated in markable Museo Piersanti houses art churches, including 200 Gino De Dominicis to Recanati, flavoured with saffron and those by a grape harvest festival at , where there working both as an art and a craft, with activities involv- the Ducal Palace in Urbino. This archi- treasures from the 13th to the 19th cen- Romanesque ones, 90 (1947–1998) and Giu seppe of Fano. Stoccafisso all’anconetana (An- are the Museo dell’Etichetta and a wine shop. Other events, ing everyone from sculptors to goldsmiths. T.A.M. has a tectural masterpiece contains magnifi- turies, objects of sacred art and period abbeys and important Uncini (1929–2008), while cona stockfish) is one of the tastiest some of national importance, include Verdicchio in festa permanent exhibition showing its pupils’ best work cho- cent pictures painted at the time of the furniture. From Camerino, where the sanctuaries, 7 archaeo- the great tradition of Italian versions of this type at in July, a fair of local wines and, in autumn, sen for the summer fair which is open to the public. At Of- Montefeltro (works by Agostino di Duc- museums house wood paintings and logical parks; 400 muse- Leonardo Castellani of fish. Freshwater fish is the Verdicchio d’Oro competition at , where there fida, near Ascoli, the art of making bobbin lace has been cio, Luca Della Robbia, Luciano Lau- sculptures of the 15th century, it is ums and art collections (1896–1984) and Fran- also very popular, espe- is a wine shop and museum. The Verdicchio di Matelica handed down for at least 5 centuries. Each summer an ex- rana, Piero della Francesca, Paolo Uc- easy to reach San Severino Marche, (the total number of mu- cesco Carnevali at the cially trout in the is also particularly well known. The leading red wines in hibition of lace masterpieces is held and in the Museo del cello, Giusto di Gand and Raphael) and where the Pinacoteca contains a polyp- nicipalities is 239); more Scuola del Libro in areas of , in the region are Rosso Conero, to which is devoted a festival Bobbin lace, a famous tradition of the Marches merletto a tombolo there are displays of lace from bridal the Della Rovere (works by Titian, Fed- tych by Paolo Veneziano, splendid pan- then 70 historical the- The Mole Vanvitelliana, in the port area of Ancona Urbino, where the art of the upper Poten- the first week of September at and a special trousseaus made at the end of the nineteenth and begin- erico Barocci and Claudio Ridolfi). At el paintings and frescoes by the broth- atres; 180 km of coast restoring old books is za valley, and Us- tourist route entitled Le strade del Rosso Conero. The. Thanks to their rich cultural traditions, the Marches is an ning of the twentieth centuries. At the “La Tela” laboratory Urbania the Museo civico houses the ers Lorenzo and Jacopo Salimbeni and with 26 resorts on the Adriatic Sea. And a large num- taught, has been continued by Renato Bruscaglia sita, at the foot Rosso Piceno Superiore is celebrated by a wine fair at Of- area in which ancient crafts are still practised in the ar- run by Ginesi and Varagona in Macerata textiles are still largest collection of drawings by Fede - a large polyptych by Vittore Crivelli. ber of famous people come from this region. Freder- (1921–1999) and Carlo Ceci and their pupil Walter of the Monti fida in September. Other red wines include the Vernaccia tisans’ workshops. And it is in these traditions that the hand-woven on looms. Near the San Michele Arcangelo rico Barocci after that in the Uffizi and The Pinacoteca at Fermo has one of ick II Hohenstaufen was born in Jesi on 26 December Valentini. Many of the works of these modern artists Sibillini. di (festival in August), the Lacrima di Morro strength of the region’s economic model lies; based on the Abbey in Lamoli, a hamlet near , the natural two rare globes by Gerardo Mercatore. the few paintings by Rubens in Italy, the 1194. Between 1508 and 1516 Baldassare Castiglione are on display at Macerata in the Palazzo Ricci. Oth- Pork is the sta- d’Alba (festival in May). Well-known white wines also in- small and medium-sized firm, this has now spread colours museum finds, cultivates and treats natural dyes In Pesaro, the Musei civici contain a Adoration of the Shepherds (1601) and wrote “Il Cortegiano” here, one of the most important er modern art museums in the Marches include the clude the Falerio dei Colli Ascolani, the Bianchello del ple item in the throughout the region. One of the oldest crafts, the dress- from plants, experimenting their effect on textiles. pivotal work of the Italian Quattrocen- Stories of St Lucy – eight of the small Renaissance works, it is set at the court of the Duke Galleria G.B. Salvi at Sassoferrato, the Pinacoteca The sour cherries of Cantiano cuisine of the in- Metauro and the Bianco dei Colli Maceratesi. Other DOC ing of hides, the centre of which is at Tolentino, dates back to, Giovanni Bellini’s monumental Coro- Titian: Virgin in Glory known as Gozzi panels by Jacobello del Fiore, a mas- of Urbino; Father Matteo Ricci, who spearheaded civica in Ancona, the Pinacoteca civica in Jesi and the wines: the Esino, Rosso Piceno, Serrapetrona, Terre di Of- With regard to textiles, around Cantiano and Mercatello land areas. Al- fida, I terreni di San Severino, Pergola and San Ginesio. to the Middle Ages and has given rise to a series of sul Metauro, in the province of Pesaro and Urbino, rustic nation of the Virgin; in addition to Ro- terpiece of international Gothic. The western culture in China, was born in Macerata on 6 Torrione (built by Francesco di Giorgio Martini) at though most are not aware of this, the porchetta The Marches also boast 5 DOCG: the Vernaccia di Ser- leather industries such as the manufacture of shoes and woollen carpets are manufactured. Also of great renown man relics, at the Museo archeologico Pinacoteca Civica in Ascoli Piceno has October 1552. Three great composers: Giovanni Bat- Cagli. The Pinacoteca comunale in Ascoli Piceno con- (roast suckling pig), a national favourite, originated from rapetrona, Conero Riserva, Verdicchio di Matelica Ris- bags in the areas round Macerata and Fermo. A world-fa- is the production of furniture, especially in the province oliveriano artefacts of the Picene culture are on display, in- an wide range of works by Italian artists: Simone de Magi - tista Pergolesi, (Jesi 1710–Pozzuoli 1736), Gaspare tains an interesting collection of 19th-century paint- this region. As regards cured pork products, there are the erva,Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva and Offida. The mous industry is paper- of Pesaro and Ur bino, cluding the celebrated Stela of Novilara. The Museo civico stris, Titian, Guido Reni, Orazio de Ferrari, Luca Giordano, Spontini (Maiolati 1774–1851) and Gioachino Rossini ings. Surprisingly, perhaps, the Marches is the re- renowned Carpe gna hams, the salame of Fabriano, ciavus- Grappolo d’Oro festival is held at Potenza Picena in making at Fabriano, MAIOLICA FIT FOR A DUKE while the re storation of and Pinacoteca in Fano, in the historic Palazzo Malatesta, Carlo Maratta, Guercino and Pelizza da Volpedo. (Pesaro 1792–Paris 1868). Then there is the poet Gi- gion that possesses the greatest number of Venetian colo (a type of spreadable salame) from and else- September. To the “wine culture” are dedicated: la Fes- where there is the Museo antique fur niture is wide- house the magnificent della Rosa by Michele Gi- a como Leopardi (1798–1837), who was a native of Re- paintings after the Veneto, thanks to the polyptychs where in the province of Mace rata and coppa, a sausage ta della sapa at , the Sagra dell’acquaticcio at della Carta e Filigrana – A fascinating tour may be made within the province of Pesaro spread, especially at Pol- ambono and a splendid series of paintings by leading 17th- MUSEUM CARD FOR THE MARCHES canati, Ugo Betti (1892–1953), the greatest Italian of Paolo Veneziano, Jacobello del Fiore and Carlo containing various parts of the pig that is eaten cooked. , the Sagra del vino cotto at Loro Pi- like the old master pa- and Urbino, in the areas noted for the production of maiolica lenza, Amandola, Fermo, century artists: Guido Reni, Guercino, Dome nichino, Si- dramatist after Luigi Piran dello, was born at Cameri- Crivelli, and the paintings of Giovanni Bellini, Loren- There are also numerous sheep’s milk cheeses, the cas- ceno and the Festa del vino cotto at . permakers, workers here in the Renaissance, in search of the dis- Corinaldo and Ostra. An- mone Cantarini, The Carta Musei Marche is a new solution that provides no; the novelist Libero Bi gia retti (1906–1993) came ciotta d’Urbino in the Metauro valley and pecorino, pro- (Information: www.turismo.marche.it). transform rags into hand- tinctive richly decorated plates, other flourishing industry Mattia Preti and greater regional integration for museums, allowing vis- from Matelica; the home town of the writer Paolo duced in all the mountain areas. Near the Monti Sibillini, made paper – and shops pots, bowls and pharmacy jars, is the manufacture of mu- Corrado Giaquinto. itors access to over a hundred archaeological sites and Vol poni (1924–1994) was Urbino; and Luigi Bartolini lentils are widely grown; these are eaten with the zamponi speciality of A scoli Pi- selling the refined water- which are still produced today. sical instruments, most In Ancona the museums, with discounts and other facilitations in (1892–1963), a poet and, together with Giorgio Moran- (stuffed pig’s trotter) and cotechino (pork sausage) in the ceno is olive all’as- marks. The tradition of The first visit is to the Musei civi- notably the famous ac- Museo archeologi- opening hours, including for events and exhibitions. di, the greatest Italian engraver of the 20th century, Christmas period. The Marches are also well known for the colana; it consists of papermaking is also ci in Pesaro, which includes the cordions of Castelfidardo co nazionale delle (www.cultura.marche.it, www.cartamusei.marche.it). was from Cupramontana. A number of leading con- cultivation of truffles, of both the black and white varieties; olives stuffed with found at Pio raco, which, Museo delle ceramiche – one of – with its international Marche contains a temporary poets come from the Marches: Eugenio De both types of tuber are found in the inland area of the minced meat and then like Fabriano, has em- the most important in Italy – museum – the guitars at vast range of ex- Signoribus, Umberto Piersanti, Gianni D’Elia, Guido province of Pesaro and Urbino, while, in the province of As- fried. The best-known ployed the water of the with rare pieces produced Recanati and violin-mak- hibits relating to MUSEUM HOUSES Garufi and Franco Scataglini (1930–1994). A great lit- coli Piceno, Comunanza, is noted for the white truffle and pa sta dish in the March- Potenza river to power its from the Renaissance to the ing at Ascoli Piceno. In the the early settle- erary heritage is kept in the region’s 315 libraries, 18th century. This is fol- Castelsantangelo sul Nera for the black variety. The great es is maccheroncini di fulling-mills. There is al- province of Macerata, es- ment of the region In the Marches, the museum houses provide a way to some of them centuries old, such as the one at the , very thin so an international print lowed by the Galleria nazio - Carlo Crivelli: Polyptych. Ascoli Piceno and its develop- monastery of Fonte Avellana in the province of Pesaro nale in Urbino, where, in the pecially at Mogliano, arti- spread regional culture and identity. The residences tagliarini served with museum, the Museum Ducal Palace, Urbino plates cles of rushes, wicker and ment until the Mid- once used by leading local citizens, people who brought and Urbino, the Biblioteca Oliveriana in Pesaro and FOR ALL TASTES ragout. The celebrated Graphia, in Urbino at lo- bamboo are manufac- dle Ages, while the Pinacoteca civica houses masterpieces international recognition to these lands, are now open to the library in the Palazzo Leopardi at Recanati. from the Renaissance are on dis- The monument to Enrico Cialdini, Castelfidardo recipe for vincisgrassi calità Miniera. Another play. The nearby town of Urbania tured, including baskets, by Olivuccio di Ciccarello, Carlo Crivelli, Sebastiano del Pi- those visitors who are interested in exploring the places As regards the fine arts, in addition to the great mas- There are numerous dates from the second thriving local craft is the has two collections of maiolica: containers of various ombo, Titian, Lorenzo Lotto, Orazio Gentileschi, Andrea Lil- where leading lights once lived. ters of the past, such as Gentile da Fabriano, Bra- zo Lotto, Titian, Pasqualino Rossi and Giovan Bat- events in autumn, such Maiolica of the 16th century, Fish is a staple in the traditional half of the 18th centu- manufacture of terracotta Museo civico, Urbania in the Museo civico, where there shapes and sizes, orna- li, Guercino, Carlo Maratta and Francesco Podesti. While the (Iinformation: www.cultura.marche.it). mante and Raphael, a number of outstanding 20th- tista Tiepolo. At Fermo there is also a painting by as the truffle fairs at San- ry; broad strips of wares – from is a display of cartoons and de- ments and furniture. The Pinacoteca in Jesi is of fundamental importance for its century artists were born in the Marches: Scipione Rubens, the Adoration of the Shepherds, commis- t’Angelo in Vado, Acqua - cuisine of the Marches home-made pasta are al- in the province of Fermo signs of the potters of the 16th and 17th centuries; and the province of Fermo, on the (1904–1933); Osvaldo Licini (1894–1958); Corrado sioned in 1601 by the Congregation of the Oratory lagna and Amandola. The ternated with layers of minced meat, mushrooms and to Fratterosa in the Museo diocesano. At Pietrarubbia, Jesi, Loreto and Ascoli Pi- Cagli (1910–1976); Edgardo Mannucci (1904–1986). of that town. The whole region is, moreover, studded Casciotta d’Urbino other hand, at Montap- LORENZO LOTTO IN THE MARCHES was province of Pesaro – and ceno it is possible visit other pottery museums. with oratories and churches built by this order, of- the favourite cheese of béchamel sauce, and there are two versions, one from pone and , the maiolica from Appig- ten in an exuberant Baroque style. Numerous im- the great Michelangelo, Ancona, the other from Macerata. Lastly, there is a wide is specialized in hat-mak- At Recanati, the artist, who was born in Venice in 1480 and died at Loreto around 1556, nano in the province of Macerata to Urbania in the when lived in his home at range of sweets, which are eaten with dessert wines such ing, with an interesting museum devoted to this product painted the Polyptych of San Domenico (1508) and other splendid masterpieces, such portant battles were fought in the Marches: the bat- Urbania, then known as as vino di visciola and vin santo: funghetti of Offida; caval- province of Pesaro and Urbino. The latter dates from at . Diffused in the Marches from Cagli to Pe- as the Transfiguration (c. 1512) and the Annunciation (c. 1528), which are displayed tle of Sentinum (295 B.C.), in which the Romans de- Castel Durante, which lucci of Apiro and Cingoli; the salami of figs; calcioni; the Middle Ages and reached its peak in the Renaissance saro with Mastro de Pajaa, Loreto to Recanati, wooden in the Pinacoteca Civica. From Recanati, the visitor in search of paintings by Lotto can feated the Gallic tribes called the Senones, marked loved to receive as a gift bostrengo, from the province of Pesaro and Urbino; torrone when, as a result of the pa- pipes are manufactured by hand. Finally, the ancient continue to the various towns and villages in the region where the artist worked un- the beginning of the Roman occupation of the region; The truffle season is in sheep’s milk cheeses (almond nougat) and frostengo at Camerino, a Christmas tronage of the Della Ro- craft of stone-dressing should not be forgotten – for in- til his last days: Jesi, where, in the Pinacoteca, there are works of outstanding im- in 207 B.C. the Romans overcame the Carthaginians autumn from the Metauro valley. sweet made with raisins and dried figs; and a great variety vere, at Urbino, Urbania stance, the preparation of the travertine that was used to portance for the Italian Renaissance, the Deposition (1512), the St. Lucy Altarpiece under the command of Hasdrubal in the battle of the of doughnuts and tarts filled with home-made jam. (then known as Ca stel Du- build the splendid palaces of Ascoli Piceno and the one (1538), the Visitation (1531-1534) and the Madonna of the Roses (1526); Loreto, where Metauro. And in more recent times, the Savoy troops rante) and Pesaro, one of typical of the province of Pesaro and Urbino, from San- his last works, such as the poignant Presentation at the Temple, are kept; Ancona, where got the better of those of the Papal State in the bat- the most flourishing Italian tle of Castelfidardo (1860) – event remembered by REMEMBERING THE PAST: MUSEUMS OF RURAL CULTURE t’Ippolito to Cagli. the Pinacoteca houses the imposing Virgin and Child Enthroned with Saints (1532); Cin- industries developed. The goli, where the Madonna of the Rosary, painted in 1539, is now kept in the Pinacote- the monument to Enrico Cialdini. One of the most manufacture of wrought ANTIQUES GALORE IN THE MARCHES ca. Numerous works by Lotto are still to be found in the churches for which they were magnificent Renaissance villas in Italy is to be found In the Marches there are numerous museums devoted to the culture and traditions of the rural population contain- iron is a craft found all commissioned: in the province of Macerata, at , where the church in the region: in the hills near Pesaro is the Villa Im- ing farm implements and replicas of the rooms where the families of the tenant farmers spent their lives, including, over the region; in the of Santa Maria in Telusiano contains a spectacular Crucifixion and, just a few miles away, periale, which was rebuilt and extended around obviously, the kitchen. The best-known at Senigallia is the Museo di storia della mezzadria “Sergio Anselmi” (history towns and villages it is In summer the antique fairs and shows are numerous: at Mogliano, the parish church houses the Assumption (1548); another painting of this 1530 by the architect, stage designer and painter of agriculture). Other interesting museums are in the Abbazia di Fiastra, near the Cistercian abbey, at Amandola, Fa - easy to come across lamps national show at Sarnano (May to June); fair at Fermo subject, dating from 1555, is on the high altar of the church of San Francesco alle Scale Girolamo Genga for Francesco Maria I Della Rovere. briano, Montefiore dell’Aso, Montegiorgio (focusing on the rural culture of Picenum), Montelupone, Morro d’Alba, Of- or the railings of a balcony (July and August), regional show at Ostra (August). in Ancona. Lotto’s long stay in the Marches preceded that of another Venetian Finally, mention must be made of another, quite fida, Piandimeleto, Pieve Torina, Ripatransone and Sassoferrato. At Sant’Angelo in Vado there is a museum dedicat- made by hand. One of the Then there is the antiques and restoration show at artist, Claudio Ridolfi, who, in the late 16th and early 17th centuries, lived in Corinaldo, unique architectural complex: the Mole Vanvitel- ed to traditional trades and crafts, the Vecchi Mestieri. Other specialized museums, linked to aspects of the world of most important areas for in July, while at Fano, Pesaro and Urbino, An- in the province of Ancona, and painted a large number of works for towns and villages liana. Designed by the architect Luigi Vanvitelli on work in the Marches in the 19th and 20th centuries, include the Museo della Miniera di Zolfo (sulphur mines) at Per- metalworking is the cona, Recanati, Sassoferrato, Tolentino, Ascoli Piceno, such as Ostra, Pergola, Arcevia, Mondolfo and Fabriano. a pentagonal plan (work began 1733) and located in ticara and Cabernardi, the Museo delle Carbonaie (charcoal workers) at , the Museo della Carrozza (car- province of Ascoli Piceno, Grottammare and San Benedetto del Tronto there are (Information: www.lorenzolotto.info). the port area of Ancona. riages) at Macerata and the Museo del Biroccio at Filottrano, devoted to the gaily painted farm carts of the Marches. A craftsman working copper especially Force and monthly fairs throughout the year. Lorenzo Lotto: The Archangel . Church of S. Domenico, Jesi The huge sphere sculpted by Arnaldo Pomodoro, Pesaro (Information: www.cultura.marche.it).