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SWEDISHthe destinations of ’S NORTHERNMOST DESTINATION

summer/autumn 2014

Fishing, river rafting The Råne River& Sámi culture

Modern time travel: Culture is alive in Gammelstad! the islands of swedish lapland A perfect excursion for the entire family

Eat

WE CANlocally! TELL YOU ABOUT LOCALLY PRODUCED FOOD AND SNACKS Photo: Fredrik Broman/humanspectra.com Fredrik Photo:

Welcome to Luleå! Close to sea and nature, and one of the sunniest places in Sweden, these are some of the ingredients that make Luleå a fantastic summer destination. The two harbours that envelop the city centre give a sea breeze that is a constant reminder of the freedom out on the open sea. During the summer months, nature explodes with fragrance and colour, and wherever you are in the area, you are never far from grass beneath bare feet or calm, green forests that offer riches of berries tasting of summer.

Take a boat tour out into the archipelago and try the life of an islander. With plenty of campfire sites and trails to discover, it makes for many exciting adventures for the entire family. Indulge in culture – visit the World Heritage Site or learn more about the Sámi culture in the Råne River Valley. Take a seat on a rock with a fishing rod in hand and let all the world’s troubles disappear.

In Luleå you can spend one moment at a lively restaurant, enjoying good food cooked using local delicacies, and the next finding peace by the ocean.

You are invited to share our everyday life with long, bright summer days and nights, filled with adventure and a healthy helping of peace and quiet.

3 2 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ Photo: Fredrik Broman/humanspectra.com Fredrik Photo: contents 10

Your guide to summer Family fun for all ages! events in 8 Luleå. 14 18

22 Shop ’til you drop! Local flavours at the city’s restaurants. Gammelstad World Heritage Site.

Experience nature 6, 12 Luleå’smore: best baths 13 Food culture 20 Sámi culture 26 Excursions 27 Activity tips 28 Beauty spots 32 24 30 Contact 34 Find adventure in Råneå. Accommodation for all tastes.

5 4 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ NÄRA

BOAT TOURS AT YOUR SERVICE 29th 21st You can chose between short day tours and longer May –September tours with the possibility of staying overnight on one Pleasant days at sea of the islands. The ship M/S Stella Marina is Luleå’s bathing shuttle and operates between Södra Hamn DISCOVER THE ISLANDS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND (South Harbour) in central Luleå and the Klubbviken Havsbad. M/S Eskil also departs from Södra Hamn and takes you from pier to pier between the islands of the archipelago. M/S Laponia is boarded at Teaterkajen in Luleå’s North Harbour. She is your choice if you wish to go on a cruise amongst islets and skerries in the archi- pelago. M/S Laponia is a well-equipped, accessible ship with a restaurant kitchen, two lounges and a sun deck. The Laponia bread, baked on board, is a sum- mer classic and if you want to come on the popular shrimp dinner cruise you must make a reservation well in advance. Broman/humanspectra.com Fredrik Photo:

Klubbviken Havsbad – an archipelagic paradise Crowded boats depart for Klubbviken every day. Here, you will be met with warm smiles and a packed calendar of events. In the restaurant overlooking the beach and the mouth of the into the , you can enjoy good food and snacks. Play beach volleyball and miniature golf or hire kayak or pedal boat. There are playgrounds for the younger children and the beach kiosk sells ice cream, refreshments and candy. Many activities are arranged at Klubbviken, including seal safaris and RIB charter tours, combining the best that archipelago has to

Photo: Per Pettersson Per Photo: offer with adrenaline filled 60 knot boat tours.

s h i p a hoy ! It can be nice to leave the city and all its demands some- SIX ISLANDS TO VISIT times. Go out into the islands of Swedish Lapland and take some sea air. KLUNTARNA HINDERSÖN BRÄNDÖSKÄR Luleå’s favourite island. Here, you can The only island north of Roslagen where Picturesque boathouses line the beach Let your feet sink down into the sand. Live on deep breaths, sunsets and experience most of the different types of there is farming. It is here you will find whilst the cottages on the island are good food. environment found in the archipelago by the popular Jopikgården boarding situated on the mountain. Brändöskär walking the beautiful hiking trails. Near house, a beautifully restored lies at the far end of the archipelago and

The 1,312 islands around Luleå invite a day’s tour or maybe a longer Hedberg Lena Photo: Victoriaklippan are remains from the farm with a restaurant, café and confer- is famous for its fishing camp, its chapel tour of the whole archipelago. The archipelago has a lot to offer, no foundations of the first fishing camps on ence facilities. Stay a night or two, drink and the statue of Christ by artist Erik the island. Also, don’t miss the labyrinths in the island’s mood, visit the many sights Marklund. Here modern cottages are matter what you want to do. If this place had its own perfume, it would and the compass rose, the fields of shingle or take in one of the themed entertain- available for rent. smell of sea-buckthorn, gault, lingonberry sprigs, bird feathers, sea- and the old harbour. The island has three ment nights arranged by Jopikgården. cottages and two sauna facilities, togeth- weed and freshly broiled perch. When your stomach starts to rumble SMÅSKÄR er with a nice harbour where you can moor SANDÖN The fishing camp on the island has long you can eat amongst other places, aboard the tour boat M/S Laponia. your own boat. The largest island in the archipelago. played an important role in Luleå’s Go for everything from shrimps to a summery midsummer buffet. On Klubbviken Havsbad is here with long, history and has been around since the JUNKÖN sandy beaches. You come here if you 16th century. There are several smaller the islands there is also a lot of good food for both children and adults. This island is famous for its archipelago want to bathe, have a snack, eat or beaches here and also a rich bird life. Fish from the pure waters of the Lule River, the famous Klubbviken ribs, museum and gallery. Another tourist enjoy evening entertainment. Make Around 40 species of breeding birds and attraction is the 18th century windmill. time to take a walk along the footpath grey seals can be spotted west of the and fried Baltic herring with mashed potatoes, lingonberries and melted In addition to the boarding house at The island has two rental cottages – the of the island and visit the shingle field island. The chapel at Småskär was built butter. You can also have brilliant experiences and find great food at Jopikgården, there are 28 cottages only cottages in the archipelago that at Lappmyrberget. in the 1720’s, making it the oldest in all with 2–10 beds in the archipelago. have water and electricity. the islands of Luleå’s coast. Jopikgården on Hindersön, an island a bit further out in the archipelago. The tourist centre at Kulturens Hus On the far end of the archipelago, at the mercy of wind and weather, can help you find a cottage that fits is Brändöskär. A more genuine archipelagic environment is hard to find your needs perfectly, and they have great information about all there is to and the island chapel is a popular place to visit. Here, older children experience in the archipelago. Book can explore the island with binoculars in hand, whilst younger children your cottage online via visitlulea.se or call the tourist centre for more scoop small fish in the reeds. On the way home, the captain whistles information. with the waves and the children are rocked to sleep by the sea and the hum of the engines. When you see Luleå’s silhouette in the distance you will soon be on the mainland again, but don’t forget that there are many islands to explore along the coast. Come out again, visit different islands and find your very own favourite. Welcome aboard! Bring family, friends or your better half and enjoy the calm and the beautiful Timetables can be found at the tourist centre or online at lulea.se/skargard environment at Jopikgården. Photo: Graeme Richardson 7 6 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ You can experience traditional Swedish Midsummer celebrations at the Hägnan Outdoor Museum amongst other places. Adventures big and little Holmstedt Erik Photo: FOR KIDS ALL AGES

for a fa m i ly w i t h c h i l dr e n , Luleå is a great beach, fun and games in the forest, and a play- place to fill the day with fun activities. It’s good to ground awaits you. Ice cream and other goodies are have a fishing rod handy on your outings – be- available at the café. Exciting adventures can also cause before you know it, you’ll find a creek or be found at Luleå Steelpark – an extreme sports a bay where you can try your luck. Please don’t park where you can try biking, skateboarding or forget your life jacket, though. rollerblading. It is totally free to visit and guaran- Teknikens Hus (The House of Technology) is a teed to be lots of fun! Whilst we’re on the subject great place for all clever juniors. Here, both young- of high speed adventures, what could be more fun er and older children get to explore to their hearts’ than challenging the entire family to a race at the content by making paper from recycled materials, go-cart track by Hotel Nordkalotten just outside blasting rock in the mine and trying many differ- town? Watch out, the bends are sharp! ent experiments. For the 25th anniversary in 2013, A little calmer, but still quite adventurous, is a 224 square metre exhibit on mining and geology going on one of the boats to the islands in the Luleå was opened. Very exciting for those of you who archipelago – and picturing, through a child’s eyes, want to try polishing your own stones, panning for how many others have arrived in the same way. gold, hovering over a volcanic crater, going down Maybe a pirate captain some hundred years ago? into the mine, drilling inside the mountain or Nearest to Luleå is Klubbviken with a bath, a play- making ore pellets. For the younger children, Leo’s ground, canoe rental and restaurant. Further out Lekland adventure centre is perfect, you will be on the island of Kluntarna, you can find Naturum, welcomed by Leo the Lion when you arrive. Jump, walking trails and a nice beach. Here there are bounce, slide and run for as long as you can. also several labyrinths for those of you who would Indoor activities are one thing – but during like to let your imagination take over for a while. the summer in Luleå you simply must not miss all According to legend, people walked them for good the fun outdoors. Pack your picnic basket, a nice fortune when hunting and fishing, and you cer- blanket, and head out to Gültzaudden where a tainly want the fishes to bite when on holiday! Photo: First Camp First Photo: Photo: Maria Åsén Maria Photo: Photo: Alf-Arne Harjo Alf-Arne Photo: Photo: Hägnan Outdoor Museum Museum Outdoor Hägnan Photo:

The Hägnan Outdoor Museum If it rains Hertsö Miljögård (Hertsö Organic Farm) Child-friendly baths Visit farms and meet people from times gone by at the Hägnan Even though Luleå is one of the sunniest summer cities in Sweden, Close to flourishing allotments, at the far end of the Hertsön Bathing – is there anything children would rather do in the Outdoor Museum in Gammelstad Church Town. Here, the chil- rainclouds sometimes cover the city. When this happens, the fairy residential area is Hertsö Organic Farm. There are sheep, summer? There are child-friendly options for every day of the dren have a farmyard of their own where they can jump in the tale cave at the City Library, the Train Museum in and rabbits, pigs, hens and nice barbecuing sites here. The café at week. If you are looking for heated outdoor pools, Arcusbadet hay, play in the woodwork shed or the old country store. You’re the Aviation Museum at F21 Air Force Base are all there to save Storgården serves homemade pastries, sandwiches and waffles. at First Camp Luleå in Karlsvik, Aronsbadet in central Luleå or invited to look at the animals in the pens, and please enjoy the day. Or, why not take Äventyrsbussen (The Adventure Bus) to The farm has a garden of its own and the surrounding forest Råneåpoolen in Råneå, 30km outside the town, are recommend- homemade pastries and cakes at Café Fägnan before you visit the Råne River Valley where you can, amongst other things visit areas are wheelchair accessible. If you feel like walking about, ed. The latter also has a nearby tennis court and an artificial the well-stocked country store. Hägnan is open daily from mid- country stores, go on a family fishing trip and meet . The there are several trails, like the Health Trail, just nearby. Open grass field. Shallow waters and lovely beaches for the younger June to mid-August and everything from traditional Swedish bus ticket is free. For information about departures, go to the daily through summer, until September. Please note: the café ones who like building sand castles, can be found at Storsand, Midsummer celebrations, to historic games, a summer market Luleå Tourist Office. doesn’t take credit cards. Lulviken, Möröbadet by Ersnäsfjärden south of Luleå and Rör- and sing-a-long nights are arranged here. bäcksbadet at Rörbäck Camping in Jämtön, north of Råneå.

9 8 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ JUNE 13–15 JUNE Luleå Pride 3 Cruise with M/S Laponia. For the third year running, Archipelago cruises with differ- Sweden’s northernmost Pride ent themes like a theatre or festival is planned again shrimp dinner. Departures for Luleå. It takes place in every week until September. Photo: Joakim Höggren Joakim Photo: Stadsparken, but don’t miss laponia.se the Pride parties at Kafelino/ 6 Swedish National Day Chillout bar, the lectures at celebrations. Friluftsmuseet RFSL (The Swedish Federa- The Hägnan Outdoor Museum tion for LGBT Rights) and the arranges traditional National Day plays at the Lillan theatre

Photo: Fredrik Broman/humanspectra.com Fredrik Photo: celebrations with flag hoisting, stage. A full schedule can be speeches, salutes, songs and folk found online at luleapride.se music, folk dance and handicraft. For the younger visitors there are activities like horse riding. lulea.se/hagnan 14–15 Folk Musicians’ Congress. Folk Musicians’ JULY 9–12 Congress with musicians and dancers from all over the Luleå Hamnfestival Nordic region meet at Hägnan A multicultural festival Outdoor Museum. welcoming everybody. It is spelmansstamman.se free. There is music, dance and theatre on nearly every 20 Midsummer celebra- street corner. The restaurants tions are held in many different Photo: LuleåPhotograferna Photo: and cafés of Luleå move out places some of the most popular on to streets and squares. are found at: And if you’ve never tried • Hägnan Outdoor Museum flyboard, the latest in water • Ersnäs Square sports, now is your chance. • Brändön Boat Harbour On the music stage this year • Jopikgården at Hindersön is Sanna Nielsen, Bo Kaspers Orkester, Ison & Fille, Linnea 27–28 European Senior Henriksson and many others. Boule Championship. luleahamnfestival.se 25 nations compete in the Euro- pean Senior Boule Champion- ship. Open competitions, meaning no entrance fee. AUGUST 15–16 During Luleå Pride, the streets are filled with colour and celebration for three days. Musikens Makt JULY Probably the cosiest free festival in Luleå, arranged at 1–31 Summer theatre Gültzauudden in August. It Luleå Stassteater will be per- forming Bagareresan in Stads- Photo: Musikens Makt Musikens Photo: lights up like a grande finale of summer in the oncom- parken. lulestassteater.se Lively summer city ing autumn dark, offering 10 Midnight Sun Race warmth and togetherness. The sailing squadron between THE EVENTS THAT COLOUR LULEÅ For two full days the music is Stockholm and Luleå, arrives the focus and this year Anna in Luleå by the time of the Ternheim and Tiger Bell will Luleå Hamnfestival. t h e l aw ns of stadsparken are practically buses in June, it’s a sure sign that the Pride fes- be amongst those on stage. midnightsunrace.se musikensmakt.se made for picnic blankets! Bring friends, fam- tival is in town. Dress up and join the parade! 14–16 Luleå City Market ily, including grandma! During the summer Or try the climbing wall during Hamnfestivalen Street vendors from all over Sweden visit Luleå to sell their months there will be all kinds of entertain- (the Harbour Festival) in July. Listen to good merchandise on Storgatan in ment on the stage. With a city centre where music, get dizzy on the amusement park rides, the centre of town. everything is within walking distance, Luleå is buy a dolphin balloon and listen to great talents SEPTEMBER 2–6 AUGUST the perfect summer city. It’s easy to get from in Poetry Slam. International Storgatan, the heart of Luleå, to other activities. There’s lots to do for all ages. Summer is 10–12 Höslaget in Avan Street Market Market days with locally pro- Did you know that some of Sweden’s most rounded off in August with an alternative Returning for a second year, duced merchandise, pony riding, appreciated artists are from Luleå? Movits, festival, Musikens Makt. The stage, known as the award winning food mar- music, children’s theatre and a ket, the International Street vintage car exhibition. All in a Zacke and Mattias Alkberg are all from here! Potatiskällaren (The Potato Cellar) is something Henriksson Jonas Photo: Market will be on Storgatan genuine village environment The people of Luleå love music and the sum- special. In September, the happy food artisans in Luleå. Artisans from more by the Lule River. than 16 different countires mers are no exception. The festivals have a lot of the International Street Market return to sell food, beverages and of great artists. It’s easy to hear a number-one town. Mussels from Provence, Catalan ham or crafts. SEPTEMBER Australian kangaroo hamburger might appeal 6 Royal Opera visitors song and discover a rising star in the very same Kulturens Hus. Soloists from the evening. It won’t take you many minutes to to you. If the burger gives you a sweet tooth, ensemble of the Royal Swedish there’s English fudge, French pastries or Dutch Opera perform The Magic Flute. walk back into town from a gig at Gültzau- Director: Ole Anders Tandberg. udden. When you see colourful flags on local cumin cheese to buy. kulturenshus.se

11 10 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ LULEÅ’S BEST BEACHES AND BATHS on wa r m days in June, July and August, Sand it’s almost mandatory to dip your toes in the ocean. Born-again, you can run up onto the beach, lay down under the sun between and relax. Or sneak out in the middle of the night for a swim in the light summer night. A luxury that can’t be found in your toes many other places! Gültzauudden, within walking distance from the centre of town, has all you need for sunny summer days. Lawns for playing football or throwing a frisbee. A volleyball net for whoever wants to play together with friends and a shallow beach with a pier. Hidden gems like the smaller Troll- tjärn lake can be ideal for families with children. Tjuvholmssundet for those of Photo: Fredrik Broman/humanspectra.com Fredrik Photo: you with dogs and First Camp (Arcus- badet), Aronsbadet and Rånepoolen for those of you who don’t like sand You can get to the cosy Likskär with a rental kayak from Klubbviken. between your toes (there are pools here). Photo: Per Pettersson The Lulsundet beach is close if you have a car or if you get on a local bus. Storsand is also popular with people looking to relax on the beach after Exciting adventures Camp First Photo: shopping at Storheden. Ask the bus drivers and they will point you in the AND PEACEFUL EXPERIENCES IN THE ARCHIPELAGO right direction. Lovely little spots like Möröbadet, Niporna and the beach flyi ng ov e r t h e wat e rs su r fac e , that’s what it’s like to at First Camp, with a view of the city, ride in the ocean equivalent of a Formula 1 race car – a RIB also deserve a visit. Klubbviken, on the boat. You’ll feel it in your stomach but you can rest assured, Rent a kayak for a few hours or island of Sandön just outside Luleå is a several days and experience the RIBs are both safe and secure. They’re also a great way of popular place in the summer. You can feeling of being one with the water. quickly getting to the most distant island. get there by taking a boat tour and in A calmer tempo can be found in a canoe, on your own or Steep sandy river banks are common in the area – here at Karlsvik. addition to the beach, there is also live with a guide. To see the Gulf of Bothnia from a kayak is an music here on some summer nights. experience quite out of the ordinary. Let the stillness sur- round you and let your paddles and the odd seabird be the only things breaking the silence. Make sure that you have your camera ready as east of Småskär, seals are often seen. Find The archipelago of Swedish Lapland is the only archi- more beaches pelago in the world with brackish water – meaning that a cooling swim in the ocean won’t be salty at all. This also and baths: makes it a unique living environment for many animals. lulea.se/bad You have a strong chance of spotting wild animals like moose and sea eagles on a tour. Make sure to make the most Broman/humanspectra.com Fredrik Photo: of the light summer nights and fill them with ocean ad- ventures. Go ashore whenever you feel like it and discover lovely little spots. There are many in the archipelago! The water slide at Aronsbadet provides hours of fun. 13 12 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ Photo: Fredrik Broman/humanspectra.com Fredrik Photo: Photo: Fredrik Broman/humanspectra.com Fredrik Photo: The department stores at Storheden Eight kilometres from central Luleå you will find the shopping area Storheden with about 20 different stores and shops. You can easily get here by bus, routes 6 and 9 from Smedjegatan. If you go by car, parking is free in all car parks in the area. You can find everything from interior decoration, furniture and building supplies to fashion, cosmetics and groceries. The Leo’s Lekland adventure centre is also here, and the biggest toy shop in Luleå – Toys R Us. Take a tour through the 8,000 square metre retail store Biltema, but don’t miss out on the more specialised Mela Décor either; selling hand picked interior designs from international manufactures and markets in far off lands.

Farm shops Shopping at a farm shop means shopping for locally produced

products straight from the farmer, all whilst having a nice outing. Lapland Shop In Photo: farm shop lies, as its name tells you, in the village Kallax 10 km outside the city centre. The shop produces the prize- winning Flowering queen-of-the-meadow lemonade. In addition to locally produced foods they also sell vintage items, craft goods and pastries. The Avan farm shop is run by sheep farmer Anna-Carin who sells hides, yarn, craft goods and, in autumn Storgatan is the place to go for shopping. In the malls Strand, Smedjan and Shopping there is a total of 80 shops. time, fresh lamb meat. The Border Collie dogs from the farm watch over the flock in the beautiful riverside grazing land. Charming city pulse OR EVERYTHING YOU NEED IN ONE PLACE Photo: Anders Alm Anders Photo:

a ft e r long days on the beach, outdoor ad- fast or maybe for the picnic basket. Browse in ventures or voyages of discovery out at sea, it one of the shops selling fresh sourdough bread. can be nice to have a change of environment. Healthy and a perfect start to the day’s adven- Stroll along Storgatan and pamper yourself with tures. Don’t miss out on other locally produced shopping in the boutiques or liven up your lug- goodies that you can enjoy on the holiday gage – maybe your favourite shirt got stained at outings or take home as gifts or memories. The last night’s barbecue? The shops in Luleå have bread shop at Kungsgatan, with bread from the most of the things you might ever need. stone oven bakery in , and Hemmagas- In Luleå, there are many signs that the tronomi boutique and deli are two favourites, Bargain hunting at summer flea markets Art handicraft and gifts people of the city like being out at sea. The mall popular amongst the locals. Fill your car or your suitcase with flea market bargains. During There are many skilled artists, art and food specialists in Swedish the summer, there are flea market signs everywhere in Luleå but Lapland. The handicraft stores in Luleå are well known for their simply titled Shopping, incidentally the first Luleå has some lovely little spots, smaller some of the recurring ones are the Kulturgården flea market quality assortment. Shop in Lapland in Gammelstad Church mall in the world when built in the 1950’s, is shops and larger clothes chains for anyone in Gammelstad Church Town (every Saturday throughout the Town sells everything from art and Sámi crafts to art handicrafts looking for any kind of shopping. Art and summer) and second hand furniture at Loppishuset JB. If you and clothing, and yes, even furniture. They have two collections one example. “Welcome aboard” could easily are into furniture and interior decoration from the 1820’s to the of their own, the Moosquito Collection and Collection Lapland. be an appropriate greeting when entering the souvenirs can be found at the Art Hall in 1950’s, don’t miss out on Antikt och Unikt in Mörön. At Ullas Lada If you can’t find the time to go there, they also have a web shop. Kulturens Hus, or at Studio 31. The Church in Högsön north of Råneå you can combine your flea market Konst & Hantverk in central Luleå has many special accessories building, designed by architect Ralph Erskine. visit with going to auctions and having a little something to eat, for your home, accessories and Sámi handicraft. Quality, design Holidays usually go hand in hand with “that Town ironsmith and the country store at the or just stroke the sheep on the farm and listen to the cackle of and artistry with a Swedish Lapland touch is always in evidence. little something extra.” What better way to Hägnan Outdoor Museum all take you back in the hens. Tip: if you like auctions it can be a good idea to take a There are several smaller shops in the alleys of Gammelstad look online at lule-aktionsverk.se for information about the next Church Town, all well worth a visit. A complete listing can be have that than freshly baked bread for break- time to shop. auction in Luleå. found online at lulea.se/gammelstad 15 14 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ During the summer, nights are the lightest in the north of Sweden and you can experience a hundred days without night under the midnight sun. It is most visible north of the Circle, but if you climb a mountain or go out into the archipelago where the horizon is uncluttered, you can experience the magic of seeing the sun rise again before it

has even set. Richardson Graeme Photo: On clear autumn nights, the sun and the moon trade places. The sky bursts alight and melds with the colours of nature – a performance that lasts for hours. Slowly, the sky changes appearance when it darkens and the stars come out.

17 16 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ Distractions • Jopikgården: visit Hindersön if you like simple, traditional Swedish cuisine. • Klubbviken Havsbad: if you are craving pulled pork. • Restaurang Hamnköket: if you are looking for organic and Tuck in in style locally produced food. • Ralph Lundstensgården: recommended in the White Guide. LOCAL INGREDIENTS ON THE TABLE • Kaptensgården and Café Fägnan: great food in a fantastic environment at the World Heritage Site. Photo: Bistro Bar Brygga Bistro Photo:

Nightlife The team at Bistro invites The party trick of Bistro Bar Brygga is the midnight sun. If you you to taste local flavours inspired by want to sit outside, Bistro Bar Brygga is perfect. Looking out relaxed bistro-style. The restaurant is over Luleå’s North Harbour, dinner at the restaurant is a perfect located on the docks in Norra Hamn ending to a sunny summer day. with open air serving overlooking the water during summer. Photo: Karl-William Sandström Karl-William Photo:

w h e n you wa l k through the door at the restaurant and the skybar is fan- Hemmagastronomi you are met by an tastic. In Luleå, eating out is in favour Allstar – Storgatan Antikt & unikt – Sakrislundsvägen, Mörön open kitchen. The “all-day concept” of all year round, but it’s something extra Bistro Bar Brygga – Norra Hamnen the restaurant means that it is buzzing special during the summer months. No Bistro Norrland – Kolkajen Photo: Photo: O’Leary’s Photo: Photo: Café Condis – Skeppsbrogatan Local ingredients with activity from morning to night. less than 27 establishments set their Café Fägnan – Friluftsmuséet Hägnan naturally include game, Everything is packaged in a modern tables out in the sun, ranging from fish and berries, and Café Symphonie – Skomakargatan also locally produced industrial style with a touch of Swedish cafés and street food stands to bars and Cg – Storgatan lamb, beef and shiitake Lapland. Hemmagastronomi has been exclusive restaurants like Cg. Friends by B.O – Storgatan Gültzauuddens sommarcafé – Gültzauudden mushrooms. named one of the best seafood restau- The newly renovated Roasters have Gäddviksgårdens café – Älvbrovägen rants in Sweden and the shop, char- a large open-air café in the middle of Harrys – Storgatan cuterie and restaurant are all under the Storgatan. In addition to a wide selec- Hemmagastronomi – Norra Strandgatan same roof. Please try their pralines with tion of food prepared by skilled chefs Heroes – Storgatan Hildurs kök – Köpmantorget a coffee after dinner. full of local inspiration, they have their Invit lounge bar – Storgatan A few blocks away you will find own coffee roaster. Their neighbour, Kaptensgården – Häradsvägen one of the most popular restaurants in Friends by B.O are well known for Kolarens café – Arcusvägen Linas kafé & bar – Skomakargatan Sports bars their Swedish Lapland tapas and they Luleå. Creativity has proved a winning Odod – Kungsgatan If you are looking for both food and sports there are several concept for the meat restaurant Cg. too have a popular open-air café. If you Restaurang Hamnköket – Lövskärshamn sports bars to visit. At O’Learys you’ll find the perfect mix of food, Restaurang Ormberget – Ormbergsstugevägen sport and people, but also an event arena with a bowling alley, When Markus Samuelsson’s Kitchen & want to be above the rooftops, try Mat pool tables and a restaurant. The Allstar Sportsbar serves “Junk Table came to Luleå, the relaxed living & Prat in the Shopping mall, or Lina’s Restaurang Södra Hamn – Småbåtsgatan food de luxe” with every game and is also home to a really hot Roasters – Storgatan Open-air restaurants check-list dance floor. The Corner Sports bar & Restaurant has an interna- room kind of environment became very café and bar on Skomakargatan where Ullas café – Kyrkotorget tional touch on the menu and the bar serves up any imaginable

Photo: Karl-William Sandström Karl-William Photo: popular. In the summer, the view from everything is baked from scratch. drink in the book. 19 18 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ FRESH FISH FROM COLZA OIL JUNKÖFISKARNA AND LAMB Every Sunday, Tuesday and Thurs- Between Luleå and Boden, on day, Junköfiskarna comes to the the south side of the Lule River, North Harbour, selling fresh fish is the small village of Avan. The straight of the boat. The floating northern Swedish equivalent Photo: Graeme Richardson Graeme Photo: fish shop is a tradition and some- of rapeseed, colza, is grown times they carry smoked lavaret, here. The colza is nourished by an excellent summer picnic snack. the long, light summer nights, This is a holiday must in Luleå! giving the oil its distinctive taste. Use it for baking, cooking and salads. It also works as a massage and skin oil. The Avan farm shop, selling the colza oil, is also a sheep farm holding about 30 Sheep. They sell their own leather, yarn, wool and charcuterie products.

THE CENTRAL BREAD SHOP Bensbyn’s Bread Shop & Café is an old style bakery with divine sourdough bread. Levain baguettes and dark malt bread are two of the most popular breads, baked daily in the large stone oven of the bakery. You’re invited Fish to try both traditional cookies and more modern interpreta- tions like caramel slices with birds liquorice. AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN NORTH SHIITAKE Mjölkuddsberget mountain near Luleå is not only the highest point in the region and a beautiful recreational area. There is also a military rock shelter here, built in the 1960’s, now housing an impressive shiitake farm. Shiitake mushrooms are similar to chanterelles, funnel chanterelles and parasol mushrooms. It is i n sw e de n , we are spoiled for delicacies. In the reindeer meat. Maybe a hot blueberry pie made of a dark mushroom with a spicy character, said to have several north of Sweden, vendace roe, the red gold berries picked the very same day as dessert. positive health benefits. North Shiitake deliver first-class Luleå shiitakes to local restaurants and also to supermarkets ICA of the Gulf of Bothnia, is one of the most famous, To the top chefs, good ingredients are everything. Kvantum and Coop. served at the Nobel Prize banquet to the Swedish Swedish gala dinners and gourmet restaurants Royal Court and scientists from all over the world. like showing Swedish Lapland cuisine, and rightly The success of vendace roe has much to do with its so. The light summers give berries and vegetables adaptability. Vendace roe seems to fit every occa- that are extraordinarily rich in taste and nutrition. sion, depending on what it is served with. Fish such as salmon, vendace and arctic char live The smell of Swedish surströmming, raw, fer- naturally here. Elk, reindeer and game birds are mented herring, might deter newcomers, but ac- common in the wild. And together with the berries cording to Swedish surströmming aficionados, the and wild-growing herbs, the forests and rivers taste is better than anything else they have ever had, are rich with raw ingredients. Food from Swedish as the contrast between smell and taste is similar to Lapland has been organic and climate-smart long that of well-aged cheese. Surströmming might smell before slow food became trendy. bad, but it tastes all the better. To many Swedes, the In Sweden we also have something called the THE MICROBREWERY WHERE THE SOUL taste of surströmming is the taste of summer. Right of Public Access, meaning that both Swedes OF SWEDISH LAPLAND IS BOTTLED and foreigners are guaranteed freedom to roam in What does a sunny summer day in Luleå taste like? Like a light ale, In Swedish Lapland there are plenty of berries. light and fresh with hints of gooseberry and cloudberry. That is, if Mostly lingonberries and blueberries, but also nature. However, some rules apply and they can be you ask Bottenvikens Bryggeri, a young microbrewery passionate summarised as “don’t disturb, don’t destroy.” Just about new tastes, showing Swedish Lapland through seasonal cloudberries, arctic raspberries and sea-buckthorn, brews. With names like Förstan (The First), Ringfrost, Polarnatten sometimes growing right on your doorstep. If you use common sense. So, while visiting, enjoy a walk (The Polar Night), Motljus (Backlight) and Morgondimma (Morning visit Swedes for dinner, they might be serving local- in the forest, make good use of resting areas and Mist), the encounter with Swedish Lapland is pleasantly tasty and The special shiitake variety grown at Mjölkuddsberget surprisingly embracing. At Hemmagastronomi you can try the ly produced shiitake mushrooms, or souvas, smoked taste the berries that come in your way. is only available in Luleå, China, Japan and Korea. brews that everyone is talking about. 21 20 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ Ospreys are one of the species often seen at the bay Gammelstads- FULL OF LIFE viken. A book of A World Heritage Bo Stranden Photo: birds, a pair of binoculars and

ma n y peopl e d on ’ t k now that Luleå hasn’t medieval stone church in northern Sweden, built gumboots are Richardson Graeme Photo: some of the most always been where it is today. Gammelstad (Old in 1492, and a large, well-preserved church town important items Town) outside Luleå, on the way to Boden, was the containing over 400 cottages, houses and ware- for any bird watcher. town centre until the 17th century, before it moved houses. This is the place where Luleå grew from closer to the sea and the harbour. The new town a small church and trading town into a real city. took the name Luleå and the old town was named The walk will take you through narrow alleys whis- Gammelstad. pering of the past, an exciting adventure for both Luleå has since remained in the same place. At young and old alike. There is also a display cottage the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Gammelstad showing how farmers lived during church week- 1 Church Town, you can not only visit the well-pre- ends in the days of old when compulsory church Gammelstadsviken served buildings but also listen to stories from a service meant long travels from rural areas into Nature Reserve Gammelstadsviken used to be a part of the time long past, including maybe one or two ghost the church town. sea route to Old Luleå. It is now on the Unit- stories, stories about inexplicable and supernat- The Hägnan Outdoor Museum, a stone’s throw ed Nations’ list for wetlands conservation – a cut-off sea armlet that, despite its northerly 2 Nederluleå Church ural events. Following Sägenleden (The Legend from the church town is also worth a visit. At location, looks much like a southern lowland The brickwork of the church is all native Trail) that starts in Gammelstad you can listen to Hägnan you can see what life was like in a coastal lake. It is home to about 30 species of plants stone and the stone material of the and 200 species of birds. To get here from the exciting stories using a smartphone app (ask regional village between the 18th and 20th century. walls consists of around 40 different Gammelstad, you walk from the car park of rock types or rock type variations. The the Tourist Information Centre in Gammelstad for The museum has buildings from all over Swedish the Hägnan Outdoor Museum. Follow the church organ was built in Gammelstad marked trails and you will find both bird THINGS TO SEE help). Every point of interest has a sign with one Lapland and offers rich, varied activities and expe- and has 55 voices and 4,200 pipes. watching towers and campfire sites. WHEN VISITING THE The magnificent altarpiece was made of the legends retold and more are available in riences for all ages. After having a little something WORLD HERITAGE in Antwerp around 1520 and contains the app. The trail stretches 50 kilometres in total, to eat at Café Fägnan, a walk around the outdoor Four scenes from the life of Jesus. If you are interested in art history we recommend you can walk parts of it or go by bike or car to see museum will do you good. Alternatively, you can 3 Restaurant Kaptensgården that you go on a guided tour as the it all. The trail will take you from Gammelstad bring your own picnic basket and sit down on the In the middle of the World Heritage Site, church contains a wealth of interesting objects in addition to the above. Church Town to the villages of Antnäs, Ersnäs grass. There is a lot to see, and you shouldn’t miss amongst the 408 church cottages, is Restau- rant Kaptensgården. Here, classic ingredients and Måttsund. You can also take a walk through the shop that takes you back in time. The pigs, from Swedish Lapland combine with interna- the unique cultural environment of Gammelstad goats, rabbits and hens are popular friends of the tional tastes and influences. The personal, 4 Sockenmagasinet cosy and genuine atmosphere is unique. Church Town. Here you will find the largest late youngest visitors. Arts and Crafts Shop Right by Nederluleå Church is the old Sockenmagasinet (Parish Warehouse), now home to an art handicraft shop where tradition meets new ideas. Alm Anders Photo: Artists from the region, all working with different materials and techniques, are represented here. Photo: Sanna Wäppling Photo: did you know that the church town custom of staying in the church cottages over church weekend is still practised today? Young people that come here for their confirmation service live in the church cottages just like the generations before them. The church cottage tradition is highly im- portant to the World Heritage status.

VISITOR CENTRE In the old Bethel Chapel dating back to the

19th century you will find World Heritage Centre Visitor Photo: Site offices, tourist information and a gift shop. Here, you can find information about Luleå and Swedish Lapland in general and Gammelstad in particular. The Tourist Office arranges guided tours in the church town. There is a slideshow and a World Heritage exhibition, and the shop sells Gammelstad related and locally produced merchandise.

23 22 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ Photo: Joakim Höggren Joakim Photo: Photo: Pier Rynbäck Pier Photo: Photo: Love Rynbäck Love Photo: GEMS 3BY THE RÅNE RIVER

Get on the adventure bus Nestors café Come on a free bus tour along the Råne River Valley. As part of During the summer, Nestor’s Café in Överstbyn has many culi- the tour you will have the opportunity to try family fishing. We nary delicacies made using locally produced, organic ingredients. will be visiting the Fairtrade shop in Gunnarsbyn, the Årstids- There is also a general store and arts and crafts. The atmosphere folket museum in Flakaberg and many other places. Departing from the 30’s and 40’s is still alive and well! from Luleå in July. For more information and timetables, contact the tourist office. Photo: Love Rynbäck Love Photo: Photo: Maria Åberg Andersson Åberg Maria Photo:

Let the adventure begin WILD RAPIDS AND STILL WATERS

you ’ r e sta n di ng on the river bank, you see the many plants on your “must-see-list.” The rare water whirling. You feel a rush when you realise flowers actaea rubra, mulgedium sibricum and that in just a little while you will be travelling persicaria foliosa may be ones that you have through the bubbling water on a river raft. never seen before? You’ll probably squeal with excitement for the If you like to experience nature at a high entire ride. You’ll probably be pretty wet after- tempo then you can take a guided bike tour in wards, but you will have a lasting memory and the wilderness of the Råne River Valley. After a a great story to share over a cup of coffee. mountain bike run it’s nice to visit the sauna. The Råne River is the largest salmon popu- Sauna rafts are available for rent and birch lated forest river in Sweden. It used to be a log rods are included if that’s your thing. Maybe driving river but it is now undeveloped except you prefer going upward to going forward. Two Meldersteins Manor for beaver dams. An exotic beaver safari is high- popular climbing sites are Snipen in Niemisel Read more about the Råne River Valley Melderstein Manor was the place to be in the 18th century. ly recommended. From a canoe, you can calmly and Kvarnberget on Brändön. Climbing together at www.creactive-adventure.se or www.visitraneriver.se For many years, the manor was the centre of the ironworks acquaint yourself with this hairy river dweller. with an instructor there’s no need to worry administration in Swedish Lapland and it was owned by the Contact Luleå Tourist Office for more infor- royal Bernadotte family. Today, it is a hotel close to nature Food will be served outdoors on the safari. If about safety or the right equipment, you can i mation: +46 (0)920-45 70 00. and the restaurant is open on weekdays in July, and available you take a walk by the river banks, you can find just enjoy a thrilling, challenging experience. for booking at the weekends. 25 24 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ The reindeer on the farm graze freely in the summer and walk in and out of the pen as they like. Sometimes, they lie outside the door in the morning when Lars steps out into the front porch. Photo: Graeme Richardson Graeme Photo:

EXCURSIONS WELL Hansén Folke Photo: Ájtte, Photo: WORTH A DETOUR

find more Experience Sámi culture together with mountainous regions at Ájtte Take a slightly longer trip, along the inland road up to Jokkmokk. Here in the forest country is where the mountainous regions begin and here is Laponia, the World Heritage Site of Swedish Lapland. At Ájtte, a Swedish Sámi museum, stories are told about nature and culture. You are taken on a journey through time and space where you

Photo: Graeme Richardson Graeme Photo: will see shaman drums, Sámi clothes, and hear Sámi songs, joiks, about nature and travels. You can also go on a virtual helicopter tour over 1000 kilometres of mountains in a simulator that feels just like the real thing. Only a short walk from Ájtte, you will find Jokkmokks Fjällträdgård (Jokkmokk’s Mountain Garden) where you can look at plants that grow on mountain tops, steep southern slopes and in other different mountain environments. ajtte.com

Photo: Graeme Richardson Graeme Photo: Selets bruk Selets bruk (Selet’s Mill) is a picturesque and easily accessible nature reserve Peace is found in Flakaberg with a heritage dating back Photo: Thomas Öberg Photo: to the 18th century. The LEARN MORE ABOUT FOREST SÁMIS AT ÅRSTIDSFOLKET area is a popular choice for excursions, protected both Reindeer roam freely on the premises and at t h e årstidsfolket in Flakaberg – Visit the Treehotel in Harads for its natural beauty and named after the Sámi year – you can visit a if you are lucky, you might meet them Make an excursion to one of the coolest hotels in Sweden, its cultural history. Bring a traditional farm where Forest Sámi people up close. There is a traditional Sámi log in Harads, halfway to Jokkmokk from Luleå. Stay in one of picnic basket, a berry-pick- have lived since the 19th century. Here, in cabin on the farm. As opposed to the more the uniquely designed rooms amongst the treetops, rooms ing basket or fishing tackle with names like Ufo and Mirrorcube. Or take a guided tour and spend a day at Selet. mobile settlements of Mountain Sámis, the Råne River Valley, almost 20 kilometres in the old-growth pine forest and listen to the story of how There are plenty of resting away from their nearest neighbours, Anette Forests Sámis have had more permanent the Treehotel became a reality. There are lots of other places, campfire sites and and Lars live on the family farm, welcom- settlements. During the winter, reindeer activities well worth a visit, and local food can be found at Selets bruk is situated thirty walking trails with informa- ing groups that have booked a visit. move closer to the coast to graze, but the Britta’s restaurant by the Treehotel. kilometres outside central Luleå, tion boards telling the story treehotel.se southwest of the Lule River. of the mill. summer months are spent in the forests and this is where calving happens in the The Sámi are one of the indigenous peoples of the world. This means that they have lived in the same region spring. The reindeer herders here are part Have you heard of Lulewood? throughout history, before their lands were colonised. of the Gällivare Forest Sámi Community. In Swedish film history is made here. They have their own culture, their own language and addition to , many Forest their own flag. Sápmi, the land of the Sámi, stretches Helpful locals who enjoy movies being shot on their

Facts Sámis engage in farming and keep livestock across the northern parts of Sweden, , and Fäldt Maria Photo: doorsteps, a unique hospitality and the close proximity to . Reindeer herding is a central and very important for household needs. many stunning environments are factors that make movie livelihood in the Sámi community. It is not only a way of If you wish to spend a couple more companies feel at home in Luleå and its surroundings. In finding an income – it also carries an ancient cultural tradi- days in the forest, you are welcome to rent the last twenty years, seventy feature films have been tion and a Sámi identity. Handicraft, hunting and fishing recorded in the region. ”Let the Right One In” has even one of the self-catering cottages by Lake are also traditional Sámi livelihoods. Modern livelihoods been screened internationally and many films shot in Luleå include tourism, media, art and music. The Sámi year has Gorgiim. The water of the lake flows from has been awarded on international film festivals. eight seasons: winter, spring-winter, spring, early summer, a cold spring and can be drunk without autumn-summer, autumn and autumn-winter. Every season The childrens movie Krakel Spektakel shot in has its own distinct character. filtering – just scoop it up. Feel free to try Studio Kronan in Luleå, which is often used in films Read more about the Sámi online at samer.se your luck with fishing, the fishing is said produced in the area. Kronan also hosts several creative companies connected to the industry. to be great. 27 26 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ Playground

and pantry Richardson Graeme Photo: EXPLORE THE AREA ON YOUR OWN

ou t d o or fr e e d om is never far away, no matter if you’re in a hotel room in town or in a cottage out on the archipelago. If you want to see Luleå by yourself there are many walks to explore. Hertsöstigen (The Hertsö Trail), kärleksstigen (The Love Trail) in Råneå or Hälsans Stig (The Health Trail) are pop- ular. On a late summer evening, walking through Luleå, you might get to see the magical mist, known in Swedish as “fairy dance”, spreading over the meadows. A suggestion for an adventure, if you want to see more of the islands off the coast is to follow one of the trails on Sandön or Kluntarna. They are largely following existing trails and span over several archi- pelagic islands. It starts at Tjuvholmssundet where you row from the mainland to Sandön, and you can hire a boat from Luleå Tourist Office on paying a deposit. It’s also a good idea to bring a map from the tourist office, to help you find the way and to tell you about sights that you must not miss. There are mushrooms and berries aplenty, so if you bring a bucket you might find enough to cook a mushroom Fishing stew or a blueberry pie. If you’re lucky, you might meet a moose in the forest, they like the archipelag- Fishinglicences licenses for the Råne River can be bought at Råneå ic air almost as much as the berries. Medborgarkontor and at Luleå During the summer you can experience a hun- Tourist Office. At Wildmarks- dred days without nights and even though Luleå shoppen you can buy fishing licenses for the Lule River lies slightly south of the , the sun gives and other places. Here’s where the fish will bite! long, light night and a magical light plays on the summer sky. From the Bälingeberget and Ormberget Lake Stora Stenträsket: A fishing water rich in mountains, the view is fantastic, and a visit at night arctic char and rainbow trout. There are cottages or in the early morning is a very special experience for rental and a campsite at which you can stay. where you get to see Luleå come alive. The Råne River: Sweden’s largest forest river and Not far from Ormberget is the Hertsö Nature one of only a few not exploited for hydroelectric Reserve. It’s a beautiful place for nature lovers, with power. The lower part of the river is famous for its Photo: Love Rynbäck Love Photo: a rich plant and animal life. Fäbodaleden (The Hill pike fishing, higher up the salmon will bite. Farm Trail) in Antnäs is 10.5 kilometres long and The Lule River: Great possibilities for good takes you on paths through forest young and old, salmon and brown trout fishing. past mountain grazing from the late 16th century. Many of the more than 100 year old cottages are Lake Hertsöträsket: Perfect for fishing with your open, so take a look inside and get a glimpse of life family. Artificially introduced game fish but also at the farm. perch and pike. Plenty of foot-bridge walking The Norriskogen Culture Trail starts at Kvarn- trails, wind shelters and campfire sites. vallen, it’s part of Fäbodaleden and passes several The archipelago: The coastal pike fishing is art and culture installations. There are campfire There are many places to fish in Luleå. There are amongst the best in Sweden. Further on out, rivers with rapids and still waters, lakes with artifi- sites by all the farms, so take your time on this walk cially introduced fish, and ocean fishing. The most both grayling and sea-trout will bite.

Photo: Fredrik Broman/humanspectra.com Fredrik Photo: through history. common species are salmon, lavaret, pike and perch. 29 28 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ Thank you and good night! SLEEP TIGHT IN THE CITY OR NEAR NATURE Sense Hotel Clarion Photo:

w i t h a g r eat v i ew over both the North and South from; everything from “bring everything yourself” Harbours, it’s not hard to understand why the Clar- to more luxurious cottages. Boat tours take you to ion Sense is one of the most highly regarded hotels the island of your choice if you’re not able to get in Luleå. On the eighth floor is a spa where you can there by yourself. The cottages are popular, make enjoy some relaxation and time on your own. Why sure you book well in advance. Lodging is also not have a luxurious massage or spa treatment with available at Klubbviken Havsbad if you don’t want products from c/o GERD, locally produced in Jokk- to leave the beach in the evening, or by the coast at mokk using super berries from Swedish Lapland? Brändö Konferens. The Elite Hotel has historically been the pleas- About 50 kilometres outside of Luleå you will ure-dome of the city, but these days they offer find romantic rooms at Melderstein Manor, built in comfortable accommodation in the heart of the the 18th century. In the old country estate environ- city, including free access to the gym in the same ment you can find peace, just listen to the forest building. They are next door to the local pub and and the rippling creek. If you still haven’t had the classic Restaurant Tallkotten. There are several enough experiences of the natural world, you can accommodation options for visiting the archipelago. take a detour to the Treehotel in Harads and spend Cottages are available for booking at visitlulea.se, one night in a tree house. By tree house we mean the council website lulea.se or through the tourist individually designed, high-standard hotel rooms, office. There are many different options to choose hanging from mighty pines. Photo: Graeme Richardson Graeme Photo: Photo: CreActive Adventure CreActive Photo:

Jopikgården HINDERSÖN ISLAND. Here you’ll get a good night’s sleep. You will stay in an idyllic place, close to both calm and adrenaline- Stora Stenträskets pumping activities. Choose between Man- Wildlife Camp OUT OF THE ORDINARY gårdsbyggnaden with hotel-standard double 3 rooms or Dränglängan with four-bed rooms. THE RÅNE RIVER VALLEY. Lake Stora SUGGESTIONS FOR Stenträsket lies several kilometres north of ACCOMMODATION the village Niemisel. There is a campsite and cottages to rent. Walking trails and campfire sites are available so that you can stop for some food cooked over an open fire, or a light snack, near the lake that is rich in game fish.

Gammelstads gästhem GAMMELSTAD CHURCH TOWN. As the name might tell you, gästhem Gammelstads Photo: you get to live in the middle of the Gammelstad Church Town World Heritage Site. With its 400 church cottages, medieval church, out- door museum and high class restaurants. Gammelstads gästhem In the Clarion Sense foyer you can is a small hotel/hostel with single and double bedrooms and larger enjoy a light snack, have a drink or rooms with three or four beds. (if you must) check your e-mails. 31 30 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ 5 5 MIDNIGHT SUN IN THE SUMMER Summer beauty spots

E 4 TOWARDS First Camp Arcusvägen 110 , Karlsvik 1 TOWARDS RÖRBÄCK’S CAMPING

R Å N 2 E R I V E 5 R RÅNEÅ

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1 Lake Hertsöträsket Hertsön 3 9 10 Photo: Per Pettersson Per Photo: Gäddviksgården’s Café Älvbrovägen

Brändö Holiday Camp Brändö Kvarnväg 133 12 Stora Stenträskets Wildlife Camp Krokträsk 99/Niemisel F21 Aviation Museum 4 Norrbottens Air Force Base, Kallaxheden 2 11

Rörbäck’s camping Bälinge Mountain Ralph Lundstengården Kallax Farm Shop Antikt & Unikt Rörbäck 79, Råneå Bälinge Ersnäsvägen 83, Ersnäs Kallaxvägen 441 Sakrislundsvägen 9, Mörön

33 32 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ Restaurants Shops & locally produced merchandise

Restaurants with local specialties Other restaurants BISTRO BAR BRYGGA RALPH ALLSTAR O’LEARYS AVAN FARM SHOP +46 (0)920-22 00 00 LUNDSTENGÅRDEN +46 (0)920-22 90 80 +46 (0)920-22 85 80 Avans byaväg 18, Avan Norra Hamn +46 (0)920-310 54 Storgatan 11 Västra Varvsgatan 25 +46 (0)70-396 64 46 [email protected] Ersnäsvägen 83, Ersnäs [email protected] [email protected] www.avansgardsbutik.se www.bistrobarbrygga.se kristina@ralph-lundsten- www.allstarbar.se www.olearys.se/lulea Sheep farm with their own garden.com meat production and sales of BISTRO NORRLAND www.ralph-lundstengarden.com BAAN THAI RESTAURANG sheepskin, wool products and +46 (0)920-52 31 00 +46 (0)920-23 18 18 CHOWKEENG art handicraft. Open according Norra Strandgatan 3–5 RESTAURANG CG Kungsgatan 22 +46 (0)920-120 33 to agreements. [email protected] +46 (0)920-200 700 [email protected] Stationsgatan 27 www.bistronorrland.se Storgatan 9 [email protected] ANTIKT OCH UNIKT IN [email protected] BISHOP’S ARMS www.chowkeeng.se MÖRÖN www.restaurangcg.se +46 (0)920-27 40 30 Sakrislundsvägen 9, Mörön RESTAURANG GOODWILL Storgatan 15 +46 (0)920-620 46 HÄGNAN’S www.bishopsarms.com/lulea +46 (0)920-109 40 [email protected] COUNTRY STORE Storgatan 67 www.antiktochunikt.com Gammelstad CAFÉ MAT & PRAT www.goodwill.n.nu Welcome to a cosy shop, full +46 (0)920-45 48 66 +46 (0)920-28 11 90 [email protected] of beautiful antique things and KALLAX FARM SHOP Interior design, beautifully Storgatan 51 (Shopping) RESTAURANG ORMBERGET www.lulea.se/hagnan new merchandise. Summer café Kallaxvägen 441, Kallax modern, shabby chic, and [email protected] +46 (0)920-884 15 with homemade pastries. A visit to the store will take +46 (0)70-247 02 04 own designs. Clothes, crafts www.matoprat.se Ormbergsstugevägen 1 you back in time to the 1940’s. and delicacies. Amongst oth- BENSBYN’S BREAD SHOP [email protected] [email protected] Handicrafts, toys, textiles, er things, self-produced foods & CAFÉ www.kallaxgardsbutik.se www.ormberget.com souvenirs, old style candy FRIENDS BY B.O Kungsgatan 24 made of meadowsweet. and many other things. +46 (0)920-21 12 13 RESTAURANG +46 (0)920-160 06 Storgatan 47 TALLKOTTEN www.bensbynsbrod.se JUNKÖFISKARNA KLASSISK FORM SOCKENMAGASINET [email protected] +46 (0)920-27 40 20 Köpmantorget 1 Sockenmagasinet (The Parish An old style bread shop selling An excellent opportunity to www.friendsbybo.se Storgatan 15 +46 (0)920-127 00 Warehouse), by Nederluleå artisan sourdough bread made buy fresh fish right off the boat www.elite.se [email protected] Church in Gammelstad. with organic flour in our stone in Luleå’s North Harbour three COOKS KROG RESTAURANG oven bakery. www.klassiskform.se +46 (0)73-047 94 17 KAPTENSGÅRDEN nights of the week during the +46 (0)920-20 10 25 RESTAURANG Klassisk Form stands for skill, [email protected] Storgatan 17 +46 (0)920-25 70 17 WALDORF summer: Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. quality and timelessness. Sockenmagasinet is home to [email protected] Häradsvägen 9, Gammelstad +46 (0)920-22 26 16 Selection of Scandinavian local art craftsmen and artists www.cookskrog.se info@restaurangkaptens- Skeppsbrogatan 28 designers as well as local working with different materials garden.se www.restaurangwaldorf.se and international artists. and techniques. Tradition and HEMMAGASTRONOMI www.restaurangkaptens- new ideas under the same roof. +46 (0)920-22 00 02 garden.se SUSHIBAR KONSTNÄRERNA NORD Norra Strandgatan 1 +46 (0)920-191 91 Gamla Hamngatan 13, ÖGONFRÖJD [email protected] RESTAURANG Storgatan 10 Gammelstad Kyrktorget 7, Gammelstad KITCHEN & TABLE www.hemmagastronomi.se [email protected] +46 (0)70-576 48 05 +46 (0)920-25 43 05 +46 (0)920-450 450 www.sushibar.nu www.konstnord.blogspot.se [email protected] HAMNKÖKET Skeppsbrogatan 34 A group of female artists roo- The gift and design shop with +46 (0)920-630 25 [email protected] www.kitchenandtable.se/lulea ted in the Swedish Lapland soil. that little extra. Lövskärsvägen 840 Producing and selling art and [email protected] art handicraft, glass, ceramics, www.hamnkoket.com RESTAURANG LULEÅ +46 (0)920–45 59 66 paintings, enamel, photograp- Photo: Fredrik Broman/humanspectra.com hy, graphics and textiles. JOPIKGÅRDEN Kulturens Hus, Skeppsbrog 17 [email protected] +46 (0)920-600 12 HARRYS NORDANSMAK Hindersön 3 www.kulturenshus.com +46 (0)920-23 12 10 Stationsgatan 25 B [email protected] HEMMAGASTRONOMI® DELI Storgatan 27 +46 (0)920-106 72 www.jopik.nu Norra Strandgatan 1 Luleå’s little market hall. Every- www.nordansmak.se [email protected] +46 (0)920-22 00 02 thing you need to create culi- KLUBBVIKENS HAVSBAD www.lulea.harrys.se [email protected] nary delicacies. Vegetables, ice Here you will find organic www.hemmagastronomi.se foods, locally produced fruit +46 (0)920-25 86 05 KAFELINO cream, farm certified tenderised meat, cheese and seafood. and vegetables, cheese and Sandöklubben, Sandön +46 (0)920-888 54 sausage products. [email protected] Smedjegatan 4 www.klubbviken.se [email protected] HJORTGÅRDEN KONST & HANTVERK www.kafelino.se Sandåkersvägen 3, Smedjegatan 13 KÖPMANGATAN 16 UNI:K KITCHEN & CAFÉ Gammelstad +46 (0)920-21 14 93 SHOP IN LAPLAND +46 (0)920-106 00 KOJIS SUSHI & TE +46 (0)920-680 68 +46 (0)920-804 70 [email protected] Rutviksvägen 40, Gammelstad Köpmangatan 16 +46 (0)920-880 66 Storgatan 53 [email protected] www.konstochhantverk.se +46 (0)70-333 58 09 [email protected] Stationsgatan 29 (Vetenskapens hus) www.gardsromantik.se Quality, design, artistry and [email protected] www.kopmangatan16.se www.koji.se www.unikcafe.se Country romantic gift and a Swedish Lapland touch www.shopinlapland.com interior design shop with a is the focus of this shop. KÖPMANNENS KÖK ROASTERS RESTAURANG ZAN KÖK & BAR large assortment for all ages. Come in and discover all the Art, Sámi handicraft and art +46 (0)920-109 80 +46 (0)920-888 40 SÖDRA HAMN +46 (0)920-104 41 Products from Jeanne D´Arc beautiful things that Swedish handicraft from Norrbotten/ Sandviksgatan 82 Storgatan 43 +46 (0)920-880 10 Smedjegatan 10 Living, Maileg, Nyblom & Lapland has to offer. Swedish Lapland – shop online [email protected] [email protected] Småbåtsgatan 2 [email protected] Kollén, Sia, Miljögården, or visit the shop in Gammel- www.kopmannenskok.se www.roasters.se www.sodrahamn.se www.zan.se IB Laursen, House Doctor. stad Church Town. 35 34 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ Accommodation Culture/Museums

Hotels Hostels Cottages & camping AMBER HOTELL PARK HOTELL CITYSLEEP THE CATHEDRAL JUNKÖN’S Stationsgatan 67 Kungsgatan 10 Skeppsbrogatan 18 Nygatan 10 ARCHIPELAGO MUSEUM +46 (0)920-102 00 +46 (0)920-21 11 49 +46 (0)920-42 00 02 +46 (0)920-26 48 00 Junkön/Luleå Archipelago www.amber-hotell.se www.parkhotell.se www.citysleep.se www.svenskakyrkan.se/lulea www.lulea.se/skargard Construction of Luleå Cathedral A visit to Junkön’s Archipelago QUALITY HOTEL LULEÅ GAMMELSTADS GUEST- CLARION HOTEL SENSE began after the fire in Luleå town Museum gives insight into Skeppsbrogatan 34 Storgatan 17 HOUSE AND HOSTEL in 1887. It is a brick building in life in the archipelago in the +46 (0)920-45 04 50 +46 (0)920-20 10 00 Gamla Bodenvägen 11 neo-Gothic style. It became a old days. Old tools and other www.clarionsense.se www.nordicchoisehotels.se +46 (0)920-25 40 00 www.gammelstadsgasthem.se cathedral when the Diocese of cultural treasures are available COMFORT HOTEL SCANDIC HOTEL Luleå was formed in 1904. for viewing. ARCTIC & CONFERENCE HOSTEL KRONAN FIRST CAMP LULEÅ THE ART HALL Broman/humanspectra.com Fredrik Photo: Sandviksgatan 82 Banvägen 3 Kronan H7 Arcusvägen 110 F 21 AVIATION MUSEUM KULTURENS HUS +46 (0)920-109 80 +46 (0)920-27 64 00 +46 (0)920-43 40 50 +46 (0)920-603 00 +46 (0)70-524 85 85 Skeppsbrogatan 17 www.nordicchoisehotels.se/ www.scandichotels.se www.vandrarhemmetkronan.se www.firstcamp.se/lulea www.flygmuseetf21.se KULTURENS HUS +46 (0)920-45 40 80 Skeppsbrogatan 17, +46 (0)920-45 30 00, www.kulturenshus.com comfort-hotel [email protected] The aviation museum lies outsi- TULLGATAN RÖRBÄCKS CAMPING [email protected] Kulturens hus is situated in houses the city library, the art de the gates of Norrbotten Air BED & BREAKFAST Rörbäck 79, Råneå www.kulturenshus.com central Luleå, by the North hall, a tourist office, concert Force Wing. The exhibits show Tullgatan 16 +46 (0)924-350 47 Art hall featuring contempo- Harbour, within walking distance halls, multifunctional lounges the Swedish Air Force from the +46 (0)920-104 80 www.camping.se rary art from Sweden but also of shopping, entertainment and on three floors as well as a beginnings in the early 1940’s. www.tullgatan.se from other countries. About accommodation. The building café and a restaurant. There is also a Viggen fighter jet BRÄNDÖ KONFERENS twenty exhibits annually, with flight simulator. Airplanes and ÄLVENS HUS & FRITIDSBY a total exhibit area of 500 helicopters used at the air base, NORRBOTTEN Norra Niemisel +46 (0)920-741 00 square meters, spread out over VETENSKAPENS HUS as well as rescue vehicles, radar RAILROAD MUSEUM +46 (0)925-200 76 www.brandokonferens.se several rooms. (THE SCIENCE HOUSE) stations and air surveillance Notviksvägen 45, Karlsvik Storgatan 53 towers are on display. +46 (0)920-25 00 16 www.ltu.se/ltu/veten- Boarding Houses [email protected] skapens-hus-i-lulea www.nbjvm.se The building, originally a post The Norrbotten Railroad office, was built in 1953 and Museum is one of the largest designed by the chief architect railroad museums in Sweden, of the Swedish Postal Services, situated in an old industrial Lars-Erik Lallerstedt. Vetenska- site in Karlsvik outside Luleå. pens Hus is now run by Luleå In the summer, vintage trains University of Technology and run between Karlsvik and hosts amongst other things, ELITE STADSHOTELLET LULEÅ EFS SUNDET Gammelstad. popular science lectures. Storgatan 15, +46 (0)920-27 40 00, www.elite.se Sundet, Luleå +46 (0)920-25 20 74 NORRBOTTEN MUSEUM www.efs.nu/lulea Storgatan 2 HOTELL AVENY SUNDERBY HOTEL +46 (0)920-24 35 02 Hermelinsgatan 10 & CONFERENCE STRÖMSUNDSHEMMET [email protected] +46 (0)920-22 18 20 Kråkbergsvägen 7 Strömsund 201, Råneå www.norrbottensmuseum.se www.hotellaveny.com +46 (0)920-26 66 00 +46 (0)924-330 81 www.sunderby.fhsk.se www.stromsundshemmet.se The Norrbotten Museum has KALASKULAN HOTEL Photo: Maria Åberg Andersson HÄGNAN OUTDOOR ÅRSTIDSFOLKET exhibits and documentaries Nordkalottstaden 2 B ÖRNVIK HOTEL KLUBBVIKENS HAVSBAD MUSEUM Flakaberg 40, Gunnarsbyn from Norrbotten, with activities MELDERSTEIN MANOR +46 (0)920-22 88 18 & CONFERENCE Klubbviken, Sandön Gamla Hamngatan 21, +46(0)925-330 23 for both children and adults. Melderstein 127, Råneå www.kalaskulan.se Örnviksvägen 87 +46 (0)920-25 86 05 Gammelstad +46(0)70 548 30 23 At the museum, there is also a +46 (0)924-510 37 +46 (0)920-25 23 25 www.klubbviken.se +46 (0)920-45 46 22 children’s playground, a newly www.ornviken.se www.melderstein.se Learn more about Sámi culture [email protected] at the traditional farm. renovated café and a shop. www.lulea.se/hagnan JOPIKGÅRDEN ISLAND COTTAGES: Hindersön 3, Hindersön Outdoor museum of cultural VISITOR CENTRE: BRÄDÖSKÄR, JUNKÖN history. During the summer EXHIBITIONS, INFO +46 (0)920-600 12 KLUNTARNA, SMÅSKÄR you can meet people at the & GUIDED TOURS OF www.jopik.nu +46 (0)920-45 70 00 museum dressed up in old-style THE WORLD HERITAGE i Tourist information www.lulea.se/skargard clothing and get a glimpse of GAMMELSTAD rural life in the old days. Meet Kyrktorget 1, Gammelstad At Luleå Tourist Office, we will help you plan your visit. the farm animals in their pens +46 (0)920-45 70 10 We are happy to suggest sights, accommodation, excur- and try other fun activities. [email protected] sion ideas and activities in and around Luleå. We also www.lulea.se/gammelstad help with booking accommodation and activities. NEDERLULEÅ CHURCH Gammelstad Church Town We sell fishing licences, tourist parking permits, tourist Församlingsvägen 12 is listed as a World Heritage bus tickets, books, maps, souvenirs et.al. +46 (0)920-27 70 00 by UNESCO since 1996, and Luleå Tourist Office can be found on the entrance www.svenskakyrkan.se/ floor of Kulturens Hus in central Luleå and is open all nederlulea is protected for its cultural values. Here is more than 400 year round. If you would rather find out information by The largest late medieval stone privately owned church cotta- yourself or if you are visiting when we’re not open, there church in Swedish Lapland, ges gathered around a medie- is a computer with tourist information outside the Tourist dating back to the late 15th val stone church. Guided tours Office entrance. Welcome! century, lavishly decorated of the World Heritage departs Kulturens Hus, Skeppsbrogatan 17, Luleå NORDKALOTTEN HOTEL & CONFERENCE with wall paintings in Albertus from the Visitor Center. Phone: +46 (0)920-45 70 00, e-mail:[email protected] Nordkalottsvägen 3, +46 (0)920-20 00 00, www.nordkalotten.com Pictor’s tradition. 37 36 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ Activities Activities

Heated pools Sport och motion Guided tours ARCUSBADET, ACTIC GYM GUIDED TOURS IN FIRST CAMP Bastugatan 6–8 GAMMELSTAD CHURCH Arcusvägen 110 +46 (0)920-45 47 27 TOWN +46 (0)920-603 00 www.actic.se Kyrktorget 1 www.firstcamp.se/lulea +46 (0)920-45 70 10 Large two floor gym at [email protected] A cool aqualand with a wave Pontusbadet in central Luleå. machine and a long water www.lulea.se/gammelstad slide. Open to everyone, and INPULS During the summer, the Visitor if you’re a guest at First Camp, Centre in Gammelstad offers you naturally get a good dis- Kyrkogatan 15 daily guided tours of the World count on the entrance fee. +46 (0)920-22 79 00 Heritage Site. www.inpuls.nu Inpuls is a complete training centre, with fully equipped gym Family fun and daily group workouts. Photo: Jennie Pettersson GO-CART RACING SENSIA CANOE ADVENTURE +46 (0)70-551 92 14 Sandviksgatan 60 NORTH Golf [email protected] +46 (0)920-40 23 00 Lövören 63, Råneå www.luleamotorsallskap.org Photo: Fredrik Broman/humanspectra.com www.sensia.se +46 (0)70-542 51 10 LULEÅ GOLF CLUB Racecourse by Lulviksvägen LEO’S LEKLAND ADVENTURE CENTRE Gym and workouts, as well as postmaster@canoe- Golfbanevägen 80 on the way to the airport. Handelsvägen 19 The largest adventure centre chain a small pool. adventure.nu +46 (0)920-25 63 00 www.canoeadventure.nu [email protected] +46 (0)920-25 75 05 in the . Lots of space HERTSÖ ORGANIC FARM ARONSBADET Shop and canoe rental. www.luleagolf.se [email protected] for fun, games and adventure for Lövskärsvägen 3A www.leoslekland.se children aged 1 year and above. Örnäsvägen Canoeing Sweden’s northernmost 27 hole +46 (0)920-943 20 JOPIKGÅRDEN +46 (0)920-45 41 19 BRÄNDÖ KONFERENS course with a 9 hole park course. www.lulea.se – SEA KAYAK CENTRE A wonderful oasis in the residen- & FRITIDSBY +46 (0)920-600 12 tal area of Hertsön. Here you’ll Aronsbadet is a free swimming Brändökvarnsvägen 133 [email protected] find sheep, rabits, pigs and chick- Fishing pool open in the summer. It +46 (0)920-741 00 www.jopik.nu en, barbecue areas and a café. lies in the Örnäset residential [email protected] LULEÅ TOURIST OFFICE area just outside central Luleå. www.brandokonferens.se At Hindersön in the Luleå Skeppsbrogatan 17 There is a big heated pool with archipelago, sea kayak rental. Kayak and canoe rental. +46 (0)920-45 70 00 a water slide, and a smaller STEEL PARK [email protected] children’s pool. Klyvargatan 3 Luleå offers great fishing in LULEÅ KAJAKKLUBB, +46 (0)72-913 50 01 rivers, lakes and in the sea. RÅNEPOOLEN KANOTCENTRAL [email protected] For more information about Skolvägen 18, Råneå Kanotvägen 14 steelpark.blogg.se +46 (0)924-57 75 57 fishing licences and where +46 (0)920-22 24 32 Sweden’s northernmost concrete to fish, contact Luleå Tourist Child friendly, heated outdoor [email protected] park for skateboarding, BMX Office in Kulturens Hus. pool powered by solar energy. www.luleakajakklubb.bd.se et.al. You can ride as much as No admission. Offers courses, tours, rental, you like, whenever you want to – the park is open to everyone sales and company events. Photo: Maria Åberg Andersson CLARION HOTEL SENSE, and it’s open 24/7! DAY SPA CREACTIVE ADVENTURE Skeppsbrogatan 34 Överstbyn 234, Gunnarsbyn Boat tours +46 (0)920-45 04 50 +46 (0)70-207 37 51 [email protected] [email protected] www.clarionsense.se/spa www.creactive-adventure.se LAPONIA REDERI At the Clarion Hotel Sense Day +46 (0)920-120 84 River rafting and canoe safaris, [email protected] Spa you will find a pool with a in rivers and at sea. panoramic view, seasonal sauna www.laponia.se and spa treatments. Archipelago cruises with M/S Laponia according to timetable. Different themes, like shrimp dinners.

CONDOR SHIPPING L-LINE +46 (0)920-25 85 06 +46 (0)70-518 06 85 +46 (0)70-604 21 24 [email protected] [email protected] www.l-line.se www.condorshipping.se Archipelago cruises with M/S Boat tours to the Klubbviken Photo: Jennie Pettersson Eskil according to timetable. Photo: Fredrik Broman/humanspectra.com Havsbad and Hindersön with TEKNIKENS HUS Sweden’s northernmost Stella Marina according to LULEÅ RIB CHARTER Teknikens Hus Väg science centre. Find out more We suggest renting a bike and exploring Luleå on two wheels. timetable. RIB-boating, speedy Brändökvarnväg 133, Luleå +46 (0)920-49 22 01 about the technology that There are cycle lanes all through the city and plenty of places archipelago tours in spring, +46(0)70-989 05 10 [email protected] surrounds us, explore together to stop and enjoy the surroundings. Cykelstället has bikes Photo: Clarion summer and autumn. [email protected] www.teknikenshus.se or on your own. available for rent in central Luleå. www.cykelstallet.com 39 38 DESTINATIONS OF SWEDISH LAPLAND LULEÅ ap of M MIDNIGHT SUN IN THE SUMMER S A T L A N T I C w

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Welcome to Sweden’s Northernmost Destination! In Swedish Lapland you can explore new adventures in an arctic environment. You’re a long way north, around the Arctic Circle, but thanks to the warm Gulf Stream of the Atlantic Ocean you can comfortably experience all the seasons. With vast contrasts from polar nights with northern lights in a white winter landscape, to warm summers with a hundred days without night under the midnight sun. In the east – you’ll find a 300 km coast line and thousands of islands. Sandy beaches, fish- ing camps and unique raw ingredients. In the west – majestic mountains, streams with water so clean you can drink it and great adventures right around the corner. And in between the quiet, mysterious forest and river valleys from Skellefteå River in the south to River in the north-east which all have their unique features. Traditions and culture are strong here, and the love of nature is even stronger. This is our everyday-life, and we invite you to share it with us. www.swedishlapland.com

Visit Luleå is a member-owned organisation working to develop trading, meet- ings and reasons for travelling to Luleå. Our mission is to make Luleå known as a lively, competitive and attractive city of commerce; close to people, nature, an archipelago and various activities. Discover more at: www.visitlulea.se

40 Cover photo: Bistro Bar Brygga • Map illustrations: Lisa Wallin • www.swedishlaplandtourism.se Lisa Wallin illustrations: • Map Bar Brygga photo: Bistro • Cover Lapland Tourism & Swedish Luleå design: Visit & graphic copy Idea,