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Home , Beaujolais, Bergerac wine, Bordeaux wine, Champagne, French wine, Graves (wine region)

A SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO MAGAZINE, DECEMBER 10, 2017

Exploring the Famous of

When people discuss the world’s great INSIDE: wine-growing areas, all are compared , , , , with those of France. It’s not just because La Cité du Vin, de , Château of the remarkable and spirits they Smith Haut Lafitte, Côtes du Rhône, The House of Hennessy, The , Valley, produce. Their appeal stems from the Maison Noilly Prat, Martell, New , poetic beauty of their landscapes, their , , Relais & Châteaux deep connection with nature, their This special advertising feature is sponsored by participating advertisers. The material was written embrace of fine food, and their traditions by Andrew Bill (pages 1, 3, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 20), J. L. Iglis (pages 5, 11, 15, 19, 22, 23) and David Lincoln Ross (pages 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 16), and did not involve the reporting or editing staff of The New York Times. worn smooth by the passing of centuries. ©2017 The New York Times ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT Joie de vivre. t’s no coincidence that we use a French phrase to describe the thrill of feeling fully alive. Anyone who has Ispent some time exploring the ’s famous wine regions can tell you why. In these quiet rural corners, life spent on the land has nurtured long traditions and slowed the passage of time. The past lingers in Roman ruins, old-stone Champagne , once-proud castles, soaring cathedrals and the echoing halls of Val de Loire noble chateaux. Languid rivers meander Bourgogne through fields and forests; gorges cut deep into wild mountain terrain; hedge- rows patchwork the hills. & Pineau Everything goes back to the land. des Beaujolais The revered — their , composition, even the pitch and Vallée the compass direction of the Bergerac du — are qualities you can taste. It’s as if Rhône every , , , crus and cuvée has found out what makes it Bordeaux special and distilled it all into that Languedoc Provence you are slowly swirling in your hand. To tour one of the areas & Floc de Gascogne is to stir all five senses. Drive a wine- Corse route for a day, or stay longer in one www.champagne-patrimoinemondial.org area to determine its differences. Talk with the growers on picnics, educate your palate, take a cooking Standard Bearers of Outstanding class, or attend a festival honoring some long-ago event or point of local pride. Vignobles & Découvertes Offering perspectives on how to get Universal Value the best out of the most famous French When planning wine regions, this guide has listings of your getaway in upcoming events and touring sugges- the wine regions tions such as designated wine routes, of France, look for e ’s landscape has seen man and nature combine over time to create notable wine estates, historical must- the Vignobles & sees and recommended restaurants Découvertes an exceptional wine, one recognized universally as the symbol of celebration, and hotels. And a broad range of wine (Vineyards & styles — plus Cognac, Armagnac and Discoveries) label. reconciliation and parties. — are explored through their Services that display it are committed origins, and famous brands. to providing a warm welcome, and pos- COVER: A picnic among the vineyards of , in the region. sess special sensitivity to, and special- À la vôtre! Photo: Stevens Frémont ized knowledge of, the world of wine. ABOVE: at Châteaux For more information and expert For more information on planning a trip to the Feely, . advice, go to visitfrenchwine.com. United Nations Champagne Hillsides, Educational, Scientific and Houses and Cellars French wine regions, go to visitfrenchwine.com. Cultural Organization inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2015 Crédits photos : Michel Jolyot 3 ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT

NEW AQUITAINE New Aquitaine Bordeaux Saint-Emililion vineyard Photo: Vincent Bengold | Vincent Photo: Bouthe Christophe

A Brilliant Corner of France Fine Wine and So Much More ew Aquitaine (visit-new-aquitaine or centuries, “Bordeaux” has been most notably, the modern curves of La Cité .com) in southwest France has long Where Great Writers and Great Wines Meet synonymous with fine wine. Central- du Vin — a new attraction completely ded- La Cité du Vin been known for its amazing diver- Several world-renowned philosophers and writers are native sons of New ly located within the New Aquitaine icated to wine as a cultural, universal and Opened in June 2016, La Cité du Vin Nsity. Home to famous wine regions and Aquitaine — and each of these literary lions is intimately tied to its wines. Fregion, Bordeaux (bordeaux-tourism living heritage. Joining them in June 2018 (laciteduvin.com/en) is already an châteaux — Bordeaux, St. Emilion, Médoc, .co.uk) is the gateway to the famed will be the Musée de la Mer et de la Marine, unmissable stop on any trip to Bor- Bergerac, Duras — as well as Cognac and Michel Eyquem de Montaigne, Lord also visit the cellars of the Grand wine-growing region. But this vibrant a waterfront museum that will highlight . Its building is a bold metaphor Armagnac, the region is a world-famous of Montaigne (1533–1592), in and taste the cuisine of Chef at Table port on the River — just two Bordeaux’s maritime history. Food-wise, for wine itself, with sinuous aluminum magnet for wine and food lovers. Bergerac and Duras Vineyards Private Château Haut-Bailly (haut-bailly hours by high-speed train from Paris — the has also experienced a renais- panels coiling like a grapevine around Formerly known as Aquitaine, this re- Son of a prosperous local wine mer- .com/en/hospitality.html). has much to offer beyond its venerable sance, becoming a leading dining destina- a shimmering crown that echoes the gion then encompassed the departments chant, Montaigne is author of the vineyards. In addition to its dynamic tion with abundant culinary offerings from swirl of wine in a glass. of , , , -et-Ga- famous “Essais.” In the last years of his Edmond Eugène Alexis Rostand (1868 architecture, gourmet cuisine, and lively palaces of haute cuisine to experimental Inside is a spectacular multisensory ronne, and Pyrénées-Atlantiques. In 2016, life, he dwelled at the family estate in –1918) and Irouléguy Basque Wines music and street-art scenes, Bordeaux is modern bistros to cozy casual cafes. experience that takes visitors around these departments were joined with two the Dordogne; the chateau’s 14th-centu- Like his beloved protagonist Cyrano celebrating its 10th anniversary as a Of course, Bordeaux is intrinsically the world, throughout the ages, and more regions — -Charentes and ry tower, le Tour de Montaigne, is a na- de Bergerac, Rostand, a poet and Unesco World Heritage site; among its linked with wine; the region is home to across countless cultures and civili- — to form the new administrative tional Historic Monument in the village playwright, was Provençal of birth but 350 designated historical monuments more than 60 appellations, 7,000 winer- zations to learn about all aspects of entity of Nouvelle-Aquitaine. of Saint Michel de Montaigne. a fiery Gascon in spirit. In the early are the Pey-Berland Tower, Saint-André ies and vineyards, and six wine trails ripe wine — from to the winemak- New Aquitaine boasts some of France’s The surrounding vineyards of 1900s, he and his family moved to Villa Cathedral and Place de la Bourse. for exploration. From June 14 to 18, 2018, ing process to how wine was served most ancient — from the Basque Château de Michel de Montaigne Arnaga (arnaga.com/en-gb/), now a A recent citywide makeover has put the city will host the with food through the ages. region in the mountains west to (chateau-montaigne.com/en), in the museum, in Cambo-les-Bains. a shine on its glorious historic buildings Festival (bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com), a In addition to lively cultural work- and the Bay of Biscay along the appellation, produce Just as Cyrano displayed passion and introduced a strollable riverfront four-day celebration of local . As shops and wine tastings, the museum Spanish border; eastward to the rolling rich red wines, elegant whites and and panache, so too do the wines of promenade that connects Bordeaux to its this is its 20th year, the biennial event will produces temporary exhibitions. hills of , with its Armagnac; west, easy-drinking rosés. nearby appellations and Irou- maritime roots. The city has introduced have a special guest: the prestigious Tall “Wine and Music, Chords and Dis- across to Bordeaux, New Aquitaine’s wine léguy, whose rustic reds are sourced innovative urban renewal projects such Ships Regatta, a race for the largest and cords,” from 23 to June 24, capital; northward to Poitou-Charentes, Charles-Louis de Secondat, from a vibrant blend of the indigenous as the Darwin centre, a former military most beautiful sailing boats in the world. 2018, will explore the relationship with the towns of Cognac and ; Baron de La Brède et de Montesquieu and . barracks turned green-economy hub. between wine and music from the to , the center of fine porcelain (1689-1755), in Bordeaux The region also produces elegant yet That’s spurred a building boom, bringing a 16th to 19th centuries. and capital of Limousin; and, finally, An Enlightenment-era political theorist lively dry and dessert white wines host of architecturally significant additions Savor a glass of wine with pan- eastward to the great city of . whose writings influenced Thomas Jef- from the neighboring Jurançon appel- to the skyline, among them Herzog & de oramic views in the eighth-floor Bel- With famous wine chateaux and winer- ferson, Montesquieu was born just south lation (jancisrobinson.com/learn Meuron’s monumental columned stadium, vedere. Visit on-site eateries including ies to visit; fantastic cycling on offer; of Bordeaux at his home, the Château /wine-regions/france/sw-france). Philippe Starck’s steel-walled a panoramic seventh-floor restaurant, and myriad camping, hiking, and mountain de la Brède (chateaulabrede.com/en), To enjoy a very good restaurant with for Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion and, a global wine bar and a gourmet climbing opportunities, a rich plenitude Once surrounded by vineyards, it is a Michelin-star chef, Cédric Béchade, snack bar. And peruse a well-curated of indoor and outdoor adventures awaits now a National Historical Monument spend a night in the Auberge Basque selection of wine-related items at the both first-time and returning visitors. that is open to the public. (aubergebasque.com/en) in Saint-Jean TOP: Place de la Bourse, Bordeaux. stylish 2,700-square-foot boutique. Nearby, Montesquieu’s estate, the Pied de Port, a beautiful village not far RIGHT: La Cité du Vin. Château Le Pape, is a quiet retreat of- from Cambo-les-Bains. TOP: The village of Irouléguy and Photo © Anaka | XTU architects | La Cité du Vin fering five guest rooms. Wine lovers can Bon voyage! Saint-Emililion vineyard.

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Classé (or classed Great Growths) system As Florence Cathiard said, “Daniel and I, of comprises a select collection of and our team, want to make excellent and leading vineyard properties established sustainable wines. That’s why we created and regulated by Institut National des the Bio Precision approach. This philos- Appellations d’Origine, and approved ophy aims to match the most innovative by France’s Minister of . The and vinification techniques Graves classification was further codified with the greatest respect of the living: the in 1987, when its small number of châ- soil and the vine.” The end result: What NEW AQUITAINE teaux was grouped under the name, or the Cathiards describe as “polished white appellation, -Léognan. (In wine wines and intense red wines.”

Deepix terms, an appellation is a delimited area The estate’s -dated red wines Château Smith Haut Lafitte of a given grape-growing region.) include its flagship, or so-called “Grand Photo Photo The estate’s vineyards total 170 acres, Vin,” Château Smith Haut Lafitte, a blend of which 140 acres are planted with red of the four red grapes; Les Hauts de A Different World varieties of approximately 55 percent When You Go… Smith, its so-called “,” is pro- bustling port even before the Florence Cathiard, “a different world.” Cabernet Sauvignon, 35 percent Merlot Established in 1999, the world- duced from younger vines with all four Roman era, Bordeaux and its châ- The Château Smith Haut Lafitte name and almost 10 percent ; famous Les Sources De Caudalie is grape varieties; and le Petit Haut Lafitte teaux, culture and commerce have embodies a figure in its history and a local since 2003 there is one percent Petit set among the vineyards of Château is more of a Médoc-style wine, consisting longA been the epicenter of the global bit of argot: A Scotsman named George Verdot. The remaining 27-plus acres are Smith Haut Lafitte. It features: of only Cabernet Sauvignon (55 percent) wine trade. More than two millennia later, Smith was its owner in the mid-18th cen- cultivated with white varieties, consisting and Merlot (45 percent). the city and its world-renowned vine- tury. The name Haut Lafitte comes from of 90 percent , five per- Five-star hotel/Vinothérapie Spa As for the estate’s Graves white wines, yards lure millions of wine-loving tourists regional parlance: The chateau overlooks cent Sémillon and five percent Sauvignon sources-caudalie.com/en the flagship, Château Smith Haut Lafitte and other travelers every year. the vines from atop a hill (or “la fitte” in Gris, a relative of Sauvignon Blanc. is a blend of 90 percent Sauvignon Blanc, Florence Cathiard and her husband, local dialect; “haut” means high in French) At Château Smith Haut Lafitte, there is La Grand’Vigne, a two-Michelin five percent Sauvignon Gris, and five Daniel, own Château Smith Haut Lafitte composed of river stones deposited by a total ban on and . star restaurant percent Sémillon. As with the estate’s (smith-haut-lafitte.com/en), located just the Garonne over millions of years. “Since everything comes from the soil, sources-caudalie.com/en/la-grand red grapes, the white grapes are hand- 20 minutes from Bordeaux. “Oenotourism Château Smith Haut Lafitte encompass- we do our utmost to respect nature both -vigne-restaurant picked into small crates and pressed in is now the new trend all over the vine- es not only the Cathiard’s world-renowned in the vineyard, where biodiversity is an -free environment (to preserve yards,” she said. “That’s why we launched vineyard estate — which is open to the practiced, and within the cellar,” said Fa- du Lavoir, a country-inn the aromatic potential of the berries), a bilingual online portal, visitfrenchwine public seven days a week — but also a bien Teitgen, technical director and wine restaurant and fermentation takes place in French .com, as soon as I became head of the constellation of other tempting estab- director at Château Smith Haut Lafitte. sources-caudalie.com/en/la-table (50 percent new oak) after French Wine Tourism Council.” lishments for any adventurous oenophile, Teitgen added, “While I obviously rely on -du-lavoir-restaurant a cold settling of the juices. Aging lasts An important oenological fact about gastronome or luxury-oriented traveler. my training as an agricultural engineer 12 months in barrels (50 percent new Château Smith Haut Lafitte is its location in They include The Palace, a sumptuous five- and oenologist, I also listen to my intu- Rouge, a wine bar and fine grocery and 50 percent used for one previous Graves. In French, graves means “gravel,” star hotel, three restaurants (counting a ition and trust the experience of workers sources-caudalie.com/en/rouge vintage), all of which are made at the and the Graves wine region is noteworthy prized Michelin two-star, La Grand’Vigne), with many years of experience.” Chateau on-site cooperage. This intense for its gravelly, well-drained . With and the Cathiard’s pioneering vinothérapie All grapes are handpicked in multiple Le French Paradox, a classic bar focus on quality over the last quarter TOP: Château Smith Haut Lafitte. vineyards set along the western bank of spa, all under the name Les Sources de passes, rigorously inspected twice on sources-caudalie.com/en century has yielded multiple awards. the Garonne River, the Graves wine appel- ABOVE: The Cooperage. Caudalie. Launched in the 1990s, Caudalie’s sorting tables, and see new oak barrels /le-bar-du-french-paradox For oenophiles and enthusiastic trav- Photo © Château Smith Haut Lafitte lation is less traveled but no less distin- spa treatments utilize every aspect of the for aging of at least two years before elers interested in discovery, good tastes guished in terms of the wines grown there. OPPOSITE, ABOVE: Florence Cathiard. grape, from the seeds to the vine, to create bottling. The Cathiards even invest- and an unforgettable setting, a trip to Photo © Christian Sarramon Since the , in fact, Graves has products that heal, refresh and renew skin. ed in their own cooperage to produce Graves to sample the delights of Château been home to some of the earliest named OPPOSITE, BELOW: Cour d’honneur, Château Smith Haut Lafitte qualifies as their own barrels, an unusual move and Smith Haut Lafitte in all its facets is a must. properties in all of Bordeaux (Haut-Brion Château Smith Haut Lafitte a unique environment unto itself, at once a costly one. “We are one of the rare As Florence Cathiard said, “A first visit is is the most celebrated) and is counted for original and sybaritic, yet genuinely wel- châteaux with an on-site cooper,” said never a last in the small world of Château producing some of the world’s greatest coming to visitors and guests and utterly Daniel Cathiard. “This is because we are Smith Haut Lafitte, its unique atmosphere vintage-dated red and white wines. vineyards dating from as early as the connected to the wider world. well aware that the symbiosis between of family-owned beautiful vineyards sur- Even before the establishment in the 13th century. And right in the middle of oak and our great growth is fundamental. rounded by woods and only 20 minutes 17th century of France’s famous chateaux Graves, just outside the small village of The Wine Comes First Jean-Luc is a true artisan and one of the from Bordeaux, and together with our wine estates north of Bordeaux — in a , is Château Smith Haut Lafitte. One of most venerable properties in pillars of our commitment to quality.” Palace Hotel, les Sources de Caudalie, with region called the Médoc, on the left bank Since acquiring it in 1990, the Cathiards Graves, Château Smith Haut Lafitte is a Indeed, all these practices are emblem- its three restaurants, a superb spa and of the — the Graves have painstakingly created a world apart Grand Cru Classé wine estate. Set up in atic of the Cathiard’s obsession with qual- organic . We have so much to offer, landscape was dotted with eminent in their large domain, or in the words of 1953, and updated in 1959, the Grand Cru ity in every step from vineyard to . so we say ‘Beauty grows here.’”

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to the Hennessy Boutique — a unique place where one can find the complete The Family of Hennessy collection of Cognacs, including Hen- nessy’s rare, limited editions. Visitors Hennessy V.S Hennessy Paradis travel on solar-powered boats from the V.S “Very Special” is the most popular Paradis is produced by successive Visitor’s Center to a nearby dock leading top Cognac in the world, a high-qual- blending bringing together hundreds to its aging cellars. ity marriage of strength and delicacy, of prestigious eaux-de-vie. Some of Whichever tour you choose, you’ll ex- V.S is savored neat, on the rocks or in these eaux-de-vie are preserved in the NEW AQUITAINE perience a multisensory, 360-degree im- . V.S “Very Special” is made up Founder’s Cellar. The oldest Cognacs mersion in the universe of Hennessy that of more than 40 eaux-de-vie. date back to the 19th century. tribute to Hennessy’s craftsmanship The House of Hennessy and the chain of excellence it has pains- Hennessy Black Hennessy Paradis Impérial Photo: Julia Hasse Photo: takingly built over its long history. Tours Distinctively smooth, decidedly differ- A contemporary creation by include: ent, Hennessy Black is a stylish original seventh-generation master blender Yann Welcome to a World of Excellence  The X.O Symbole, a one-and-a-half- blend that invites you to discover a Fillioux, this rare Cognac embodies the he Hennessy story begins with Hennessy (lesvisites.hennessy.com/en hour tour in both the Center and Cel- smoother class of Cognac. pinnacle of the art of selection: Only a young Irishman’s adventure. In -int) is the only house with a tasting lars, covering both sides of the river, 10 out of 10,000 eaux-de-vie have 1745, Richard Hennessy, a recent committee, which supports the house’s and ending with a tasting of Hennessy Hennessy V.S.O.P the potential to join this blend. Par- immigrantT to France, joined the Regi- three pillars of quality: selection, aging V.S.O.P and Hennessy X.O. The world’s first, and favorite V.S.O.P adis Impérial is a Cognac of magis- ment of Clare in the elite , and blending of all of Hennessy’s eaux-  The Hennessy Exception, a two-hour Cognac blends more than 60 eaux-de- terial complexity, balance and the which had been enlisted by French de-vie, literally “waters of life.” At Hen- tour (available upon reservation only) vie to achieve perfect harmony and a finest texture, revealing new tones King Louis XV to battle the British and nessy, the transmission of knowledge that unveils the history, craftsmanship natural balance of strength and smooth- of expression and delicate floral Dutch in the Seven Years’ War. (In the from one generation to the next is liter- and world of the Hennessy Maison, ness with a long-lasting finish. It’s a essences on the palate. 13 American , it was called the ally in the firm’s D.N.A. — as evidenced where you slip behind the scenes to testament to the enduring expertise of French and Indian War.) As the Irish and by the two families responsible for the discover the Paradis Cellar, where the Hennessy master blenders. British were age-old enemies, joining the company, then and now: The Hennessy some of the house’s oldest cognacs French was a logical calling for Richard family, who created the firm in 1765; and, are stored. This tour finishes with Hennessy X.O Hennessy; indeed, so many Irishmen Renaud Fillioux the Fillioux family, who represent eight a tasting in a private lounge with X.O is “extra old”; a blend of 100 eaux- flocked to France during the 16th, 17th generations of master blenders, each of Hennessy X.O and Hennessy Paradis, de-vie, its deep amber color is a sign of and 18th centuries, these Irish soldiers de Gironde, Hennessy’s whom has cared for Hennessy’s reputa- including appetizers prepared by Hen- its intensity. At once rich and robust, it were known as the “Wild Geese.” Master Blender tion for unrivaled Cognacs. nessy’s chef. constantly reveals layers of flavors with As an officer, Hennessy was stationed Representing the eighth generation of  The Hennessy à la Carte, a four-and- distinctive persistence on the palate. in La Rochelle; located on France’s At- Hennessy’s master blenders, 39-year- The Hennessy Tours a-half-hour private tour (available coast, it was the principal port for old Renaud Fillioux de Gironde was There’s a well-known French expression upon reservation only) through the exports of Cognac, salt and wine. There, born into a family of winegrowers and about making the extra effort to reach an vineyard, distillery and the Paradis while still in uniform, he witnessed a distillers. Renaud studied economic especially enriching destination or expe- cellar, which relates all the steps in boom in Cognac exports as ’s sciences in Bordeaux and in , fol- rience: “Ça vaut le voyage”, or, in modern Hennessy’s distillation and aging war gradually wound down; by 1763, the lowed by an internship in New York. parlance, “It’s worth the trip.” Hennessy is steps. This seasonal experience French, British and Dutch signed a Trea- In 2002, he joined the Maison Hen- just such a destination, one that embrac- focuses on the vineyards during ty of Paris peace accord. nessy’s Eaux-de-Vie Department, es all five of its visitors’ senses. spring and summer, and the distil- Even before he resigned his commis- and went on to pursue a master’s When you visit Hennessy, you will lation and aging processes during OPPOSITE, TOP: The Pavilions Cellar. sion, Richard Hennessy sent casks of Co- degree in Wine Business in . see Cognac’s rolling vineyards and step fall and winter. It concludes with a OPPOSITE, BELOW: Yann Fillioux (left) gnac to his Irish relatives and customers Upon his return, he joined the Tasting inside cool cellars where Hennessy’s private tasting of Hennessy X.O and and Renaud Fillioux de Gironde. — first from La Rochelle, then later from Committee and became a relation- Cognacs age; hear the Hennessy story Paradis, with appetizers created by Photo: Alfredo Piola Ostend, Belgium, where he lived after he ship manager for Hennessy’s 1,600 during a guided tour; smell the complex Hennessy’s chef. ABOVE: Hennessy Cognacs. left the military. On his return to Cognac winegrowing partners. His uncle, aromas of a great Cognac at its welcom- From its very beginnings to present LEFT: The Hennessy distillery. in 1765, with a French wife, Hélène, and Master Blender Yann Fillioux, trained ing Visitor’s Center; taste the elegance times, Hennessy’s history is amazing son, Jacques, he became a successful him for some 15 years, passing along and quality of selected bottlings; and, and authentic. Connoisseurs of the finer exporter. That same year, he founded his the secrets and know-how of making during the entire experience, literally be things in life will feel truly immersed in maison, or “house,” in Cognac. Over the Cognac. Every year, Renaud travels in touch with the passage of time itself. an experience of excellence when visit- next 250 years, it became home to the to meet with winegrowers around the All Hennessy tours start and end at the ing Hennessy’s home in Cognac — espe- world’s best-selling Cognac. world and gather new experiences. Visitor’s Center on the banks of the Cha- cially if they are even a bit as adventur- As the leading producer of Cognac, rente River in the heart of Cognac, home ous as young Richard Hennessy.

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Champagne Photo: mbkphotos.com Photo:

Synonymous With Luxury and Joie de Vivre oth the region of Champagne and its alive during the three-day Habits de Lu- exceptional wines have long enjoyed mière (habitsdelumiere.epernay.fr/en). near-mythic status. Developed in the One of the best-known routes is the Blate 1600s, the became the , which stretches 43 drink of choice of the 18th- and 19th-cen- miles from Épernay to Reims. Among the tury elite. Today, Champagne retains its il- houses to discover here is Champagne lustrious heritage, with celebratory Richard-Fliniaux in the village of Ay, popped open to mark special occasions, where James Richard-Fliniaux weddings and, of course, New Year’s Eve. offers a private two-hour eco-tour of his Discover the place where this sophisti- vineyards (ay-eco-visite.com). A short cated sparkler was born, in Champagne drive away is the ancient Benedictine country, just a 45-minute high-speed train abbey of , where monk and ride from Paris to the region’s largest city, Champagne pioneer Dom Pérignon lies. Reims. Not only will you sample all kinds Located in Château-Thierry, in the TOP: The vineyards of Champagne. of effervescent delights, but you will dis- Valley vineyards, Maison Pannier is the first cover the rich history of the region, whose ABOVE: . medieval cellar on the Champagne Road, hillsides, houses and cellars were granted and is just 45 minutes from Reims and less Unesco World Heritage status in 2015. than an hour from Paris and Épernay. Champagne is made up of five depart- Exploring champagne’s Routes The two-hour workshop held inside the ments: , Marne, , Haute Marne Most routes originate in Reims, home to estate of winemaker Jean-François Fleury and Seine-et-Marne. Crisscrossing the re- 11 Champagne houses, notably Taittinger, and his wife, Dominique, at Domaine Fleu- gion are five Champagne routes covering Veuve Cliquot and the region’s oldest, ry-Gille (champagne-fleury-gille.fr), in the some 250 miles — from the Marne Valley Maison . Reims is resplendent with Marne Valley, is a wonderful introduction to the of Épernay and Reims and Gothic treasures, chief among them its to the ritual of Champagne tasting. south towards Sézanne and the Côte des enormous 800-year-old cathedral. Just 15 The wine and chocolate experience at Bar. The routes offer a unique combination minutes from Reims is the newly opened Champagne Devaux (champagne-devaux of big Champagne houses, family-run cel- Château de (chateaudesacy-reims .com), a stately private mansion in lars and wine , all producing a .fr/en), an 1850 villa turned boutique hotel. Bar-sur-Seine in the Côte des Bar, pairs wide variety of Champagne styles — from Another excellent base for exploring four with four of the finest traditional nonvintage to blanc de blanc Champagne is the of Épernay, home local chocolates from world-champion to rare des Riceys. Along the way, to Moet et , Mercier, De Castel- chocolatier Pascal Caffet. you’ll be treated to a bucolic landscape, lane and other celebrated houses. Its heart Visit the Côte des Bar during the first with gently rolling hills dotted with vast is the venerable Avenue de Champagne, weekend of August for La Route du vineyards of , and itself a Unesco World Heritage site. Below Champagne en Fête (routeduchampagne grapes and dense forests of the street, chalk cellars house millions of .com), a tasting event in which winemak- chestnuts and beeches. Ripe for explora- bottles of bubbly from local producers. An ers open their cellars to the public. tion are the area’s ancient monasteries, ideal time to visit is the second weekend For details on these experiences and more, quaint and historical monuments. of December, when the avenue comes go to visitfrenchwine.com/en.

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stops include Gascony’s historic capital, (en.auch-tourisme.com). The Abbey Trip Ideas of Flaran, founded by Burgundian monks in 1151 in the town of Valence-sur-Baïse, Vespa Through Join the Roman is one of the best-preserved abbeys in Explore the vineyards of Gaillac — At the Mas des Tourelles domaine southwest France. often called “Little Tuscany” — atop (tourelles.com/en), the archaeological Bordering the languid Lot River an hour’s a Vespa scooter. The area is famous site and vineyard in Beaucaire, you can drive north of , the vineyards of for hillside villages such as sample Gallo-Roman wines just like are famous for their black and Castelnau-de-, delicious those made there 2,000 years ago. wines made from the Malbec grape. In regional cuisine and its superb Gail- Each September, workers in Roman Cahors (holidays-cahors.co.uk), a Unes- lac wines. Hédonist Motorcycle Tours garb replicate the ancient process, Occitanie/Sud de France co World Heritage site, you will find the (hedonistmotorcycletours.com/en) crushing the grapes by foot, turning the Photo: P. Thebaut P. Photo: 12th-century Cathedral of St. Etienne and supplies the scooters and directions. ancient press and filling earthenware the three-towered Valentré Bridge, both amphorae with juice to turn into Roma- A New Region With an Ancient Pedigree waypoints on the pilgrims’ 1,000-year-old Boat Down the Lot River num Vinum (Roman wine). ne of the best (and certainly most industries. But it’s also a culinary center, Road to Compostela. For a change of pace, rent a Pénichette enjoyable) ways to understand the The Main Events an arts hub and, most of all, a historic The vineyards of Gaillac (vins-gaillac (a traditional canal boat with room Enjoy a Digital Detox interdependence of wine, land and city containing the 11th-century Basilique .com/en), a half-hour’s drive east from for two to 12 people) and motor off Leave the Wi-Fi world behind and Otradition is to spend some time in Occit- Independent The Flame of Ar- Saint Sernin, Le Couvent des Jacobins and Toulouse, on the banks of the River , down the slow-moving green waters rediscover a simpler life in Castigno anie (tourisme-occitanie.com), the newly Wine Grower magnac Festivals the old bridge, Pont Neuf, that spans the are known for their remarkable wines of the River Lot, stopping to taste the (villagecastigno.com/en/), a tradi- formed region in France’s beautiful sun- Picnics Varied locations Garonne River. (When you are there, don’t produced in seven styles — dry white, region’s famous black wine and explore tional South-of-France village in the warmed south. The biggest winegrowing Vineyards across Weekends, Octo- miss the famous No. 5 Wine Bar, offering dry-white semi-sparkling, sweet (late har- the timeless old villages of the Lot. Saint-Chinian vineyards near Montpel- area in the world, it produces an aston- Occitanie ber to January over 3,000 wines by the glass.) From Tou- vest), méthode ancestrale (old-fashioned Rental boats can be hired from Lo- lier, where the simple pleasures — a ishing array of unique wines, represented May louse, visitors can walk or bike along the method), rosé, red and white. Between caboat Holidays (locaboat.com/en). glass of wine on a sun-dappled veran- by 80 distinctive appellations, all prized Foie Gras Fairs picturesque, slow-moving , tastings you can visit the Episcopal city dah, some tapas in the village square, for their excellent value and finesse. Not The Flavors of Varied locations one of Occitanie’s many Unesco World of , home to Cathedral Sainte-Cécile Tour the Mediterranean Vineyards or a ceramics class — are all you need. coincidentally, Occitanie also includes the Lot Festival each weekend Heritage sites. (the world’s largest brick building), and the in a Citroën 2CV within its borders a similarly remarkable Cahors October to The region, in the heart of the Toulouse Museum, housed in the Explore the Mediterranean coast Get a Bird’s-Eye View of Rousillon range of terroirs born out of a dramatic, Early July January Cevennes mountains, is known for Pont former bishops’ palace. of Occitanie in a convertible 2CV, Skim the Roussillon vineyards a ever-changing landscape. du Gard, the breathtaking Roman aque- At the point where the patchwork quilt of Citroën’s iconic automobile. Based paramotor (a mix between ultra-light Occitanie was formed in 2016, when the Gaillac Primeur duct that spans its namesake river, and the Roussillon vineyards meets the sea lies out of La Palme and Sallèles d’ flying and paragliding) from Canigou provinces of Languedoc-Roussillon and Festival Fair the Roman city of Nimes. Aude is known , an authentic fishing village, and (two wine-growing villages on the Mountain in the Pyrenees to the sea. Midi-Pyrénées were merged into a single Carcassonne Gaillac for Romanesque abbeys, , the rock coves of the “vermeille coast,” so coast), Vin4 Heures Wine Tours (vin- Canigou Airlines (canigouairlines.com) administrative region. To appreciate its July Third weekend and the medieval town of Carcassonne. called because of its distinctive red cliffs. In 4heurestour.fr) organizes wine tours offers “Fly & Wine” packages, stopping extraordinary variety you must visit the of November Among the many highlights of Lot are the the ancient city of , the capital of and workshops. at a winery for tastings and tours. rolling hills of Gascony and the vine- Abbeys of (Thursday- charming villages of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, the Roussillon, you can tour the 14th-cen- blanketed banks of the River Rhone, the Occitanie Festival Sunday) and , with its Cave of tury palace of the kings of Majorca. And snow-capped Pyrenees on the border with Historic abbeys Marvels (Grotte des Merveilles). And of there is no better way to experience the Profile and the long sandy beaches on the July through Aug. Truffle Fairs course, wherever you go touring, Occita- majesty of the Pyrenees than by riding the Mediterranean. Spread across the region, Various towns nie’s famous foods (starting with foie gras, Yellow Train that snakes its scenic way up Alain Brumont, the owner poster-perfect hilltop towns top-tier Jazz Festival December truffles and Roquefort cheese) and wines to France’s highest railway station. of Château Montus and Château restaurants and luxurious inns and hotels. to March are always on prominent display. The Languedoc vineyards, famous both Bouscassé vineyards, is the force Meandering wine routes link award-win- First half of In Gascony, an hour’s drive west of for their appellations and Noilly Pratt ver- behind reviving the Madiran ning vineyards with tasting rooms and August Toulouse, the region’s famous spirit — mouth, are equally crammed with sites of appellation and the Tannat grape tours that lay bare the time-honored skills Armagnac (armagnac.fr/en) — makes the interest. Rising out of the rolling landscape, variety in France's southwest. Along and subtle distinctions behind each appel- For details on these events and more, perfect focus for a tour. Made from wine, the medieval fortress of Carcassonne the way, this passionate and innovative lation. And thousands of years of history go to visitfrenchwine.com/en. this amber-colored eau de vie is the oldest is another Unesco World Heritage site. winemaker has restored several terroirs look out from ancient abbeys, chateaux, in France and the pride of Gascony is a bustling city chock-full of and developed a unique production Roman aqueducts and amphitheaters, since the Middle Ages. Visit the 123 estates historic sites and contemporary attractions. method. Today, his wines have drawn soaring cathedrals and festivals that ex- included in the Escapades in Armag- On Languedoc’s southernmost edge, the worldwide recognition, and he has pose centuries-old traditions. TOP: The fortified town of nac network, browse the many farmers’ long sandy beaches of the Mediterranean been voted best winemaker by many Carcassonne. ABOVE: The village of Castigno. Occitanie’s capital, Toulouse, is the markets, and join in the numerous festivals beckon with their sophisticated sun and international magazines. Photo: A. Appert center of France’s civil aviation and space that dot the Gascon calendar. Essential sea charms.

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OCCITANIE / SUD DE FRANCE OCCITANIE / SUD DE FRANCE

The Languedoc Claude Cruells Photo: Maison Noilly Prat Photo: Olivier Octobre Photo:

A of Great Wines A Heritage Centuries in the Making art of the new region of Occitanie, o is quite so iconic as the You’ll begin your tour in the Chai des a three-week period. The precious re- Languedoc is the southernmost Mark your calendar classic martini, a perfectly propor- Mistelles, the original cellar lined with sulting liquid is then aged a further three region of mainland France, running tioned mix of or and dry massive oak casks, where Mistelle, a months before being bottled. Pfrom the Pyrenees on the Spanish border Toques et Clochers Nvermouth, served icy cold with a twist. , matures and absorbs the After you’ve learned how the vermouth along the coast of the Mediterranean to Just ask legendary spy James Bond, who flavor of the wood. From there, you’ll is made, you’ll get a chance to taste the Rhône Valley in the east. In the remote March 24-25 liked his “shaken not stirred.” Whatever enter L’Enclos, an enormous open-air La Maison Noilly Prat’s unique variet- interior sit the mountains of the Cévennes. your preference, the perfect martini starts courtyard where thousands of barrels ies: Original Dry, Extra Dry, Rouge and Rivers such as the Tarn and Ardèche have Balades Gourmandes with a great vermouth. And Noilly Prat dry filled with regional dry white wines rest Ambré. Extra Dry and Original Dry blend sliced gorges through the limestone. Fur- Participating Languedoc appellations vermouth is considered by many to be the for a year, exposed to the elements and dry white wines with botanicals including ther south, the beautiful 150-mile-long Ca- April to July only choice for a well-made martini. seasons to recreate the effects of the chamomile, gentian, bitter orange and nal du Midi is ideal for boating vacations, It was in 1813 that fine wine and spirits sun and sea on casks once transported nutmeg. Rouge, rich with notes of saf- hiking and cycling. Along the Mediterra- The Independent merchant Joseph Noilly created France’s across the ocean on the decks of ships. fron, lavender, cloves and cocoa beans, nean, world-renowned resorts such as Cap Winegrower Picnic first vermouth, a complex blend of aged Back inside, La Salle des Secrets is is ideal for pairing with hard and blue d’, Palavas-les-Flots and Le Grau-du- Across the Languedoc dry white wines infused with aromatic where the final blending and traditional cheeses, while the rosebud, cardamom Roi front on to long, sandy beaches. ince is best known for such appellations May botanicals and spices — a recipe that still “dodinage,” or technique, and cinnamon–scented Ambré is perfect Wherever you go in this endlessly as Saint-Chinian A.O.C., Picpoul de Pinet remains a closely guarded secret. In the takes place. A secret mix of 20 herbs and with foie gras and desserts. varied landscape, the past looks back at A.O.C., Faugères A.O.C., Corbières A.O.C., Estivales 1850s, Noilly’s son Louis continued the spices, sourced from around the world You can also indulge in two new hands- you from historic towns such as Toulouse Terrasses du Larzac A.O.C., Minervois Across the Languedoc tradition, joining forces with his son-in-law and prepared by the Noilly Prat herbalist, on experiences. La Maison Noilly Prat has and fortified Carcassonne (one of the A.O.C. and its eponymous appellation, May to July Claudius Prat to establish La Maison Noilly is added by hand and gently stirred over opened its private bar for a 90-minute top five tourist destinations in France); Languedoc A.O.C., all with their celebrat- Prat (noillyprat.com) in the picturesque expert-led cocktail master class that re- from Roman sites such as the Arena in ed sub- (crus). Also look out for Wine-Tasting Evenings harborside town of Marseillan, within the veals the art of vermouth mixology, plus Nîmes and the three-tiered the vins doux naturels (naturally sweet Across Languedoc newly formed Occitanie region. Here, you’ll get to mix your own delicious ver- aqueduct; from Romanesque churches wines) made from the grape, and Throughout the summer overlooking the and mouth cocktails. Another original expe- and Cathar castles such as the Champagne-like crémants produced surrounded by sun-dappled vineyards pro- rience is the “make your own vermouth” and Château de Quéribus that cling to near the town of Limoux. Jazz Festival at l’Hospitalet ducing some of France’s finest dry white workshop, where you can be a Cellar craggy ridges high in the Pyrenees. Great To immerse yourself in Languedoc’s A.O.C. La Clape at Château wines, the Noilly Prat family perfected Master, donning a lab coat and designing abbeys such as Fontfroide and Valmagne long wine tradition, follow one, or all, of l’Hospitalet – Gérard Bertrand their vermouth-making process and estab- your own special blend of vermouth. have been making wine for almost a the area’s five wine routes. Stop to take July lished a legacy that continues to this day. Enjoy Noilly Prat with local huîtres de thousand years. The Renaissance Châ- an organized wine walk, a guided bike oysters at one of Marseillan’s teau de Castanet in has or culinary tour. There are wine pair- For details on these events and Witness the Masters at Work many charming restaurants. Or pick up been completely restored. Still others — ing and cooking classes that start in a more, go to visitfrenchwine.com/en. Visiting the original distillery in Marseillan a bottle to take home and use it in your Château d’Ayres in and Château local market and end at the table. Visit is like stepping back in time; the labor-in- own recipes: The herbs and spices of de la Caze in Laval-du-Tarn — have been the 16th-century Château l’Hospitalet, tensive process is virtually unchanged Noilly Prat add a complex flavor to fish transformed into hotels and restaurants. near , where Gérard Bertrand since the mid-19th century. A number of TOP: The Mistelle Cellar and seafood dishes. However you choose TOP: The vineyards of Montpellier. And then there are the Languedoc- creates renowned grand cru wines. Or different tours introduce you to the rich ABOVE: A dry martini made with to enjoy Noilly Prat — over ice, shaken Roussillon wines, each as different as its attend a tasting at the 17th-century Châ- Left: La Clape is a sub-appellation heritage of Noilly Prat and offer exclusive Noilly Prat vermouth. or stirred — you’ll be carrying on a more of the Languedoc appellation. landscape yet bursting with the region’s teau de , the “Little Versailles access to the expertise of its cellar mas- than 200-year-old tradition that is a true distinctive personality. Today, the prov- of the Mediterranean,” near Carcassonne. ter, as well as V.I.P. tastings. reflection of .

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Provence Côtes du Rhône Photo: francoismillo.com | CIVP | francoismillo.com Photo: C. Grilha Photo:

A Wine Tour The Wines of Pleasure rovence hides its mysteries behind a view of the massive Sainte-Victoire urists might think of Côtes du Rhône the Ardèche, , the Loire and the their evidence.” So said the great Sample At The Source mountain, famously portrayed by Paul in its most literal terms, as an A.O.C. Rhône), discovering an authentic culture Provençal author, Jean Giono Visit these three educational tasting Cézanne; visit the Roman amphitheater (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) and passionately pursued viticulture. “P(1895–1970), whose writing captured the centers, called Maisons des Vins. of Fréjus; sunbathe on the d’Azur’s Pcovering those wines produced in the Or make your own way, led by your own mythic qualities of his native land with its Each is open to the public and ready sandy beaches; tour charming villages Rhône wine region in the southeast of special interests. Options include canoeing steep mountains, sun-filled valleys dotted to assist in making an appointment to perched on hilltops; discover little fishing France. But for the rest of the world the through the steep-sided Ardèche Gorge, with olive groves, fields of fragrant laven- tour a local winery. harbors with outdoor restaurants; and name conjures up a more magical mean- exploring the subterranean majesty of the der, and verdant plains with vast vineyards.  Maison des Vins Côtes de don’t miss the Provençal cities of art ing: the region’s varied and delicious Grotte Saint Marcel, or taking a designated The ancient brought vines and Provence, in Les Arcs sur Argens and history such as Aix-en-Provence, reds, whites and rosés. Easy to drink and walking or biking trail through the vine- wine culture to present-day Provence (maison-des-vins.fr) Saint-Maximin, and . food-friendly, with a great balance of price yards. Lose yourself in the winding cobble- as early as 600 B.C., settling in Massalia,  Vinothèque Sainte Victoire, in Saint- and quality, the wines of Côtes du Rhône stone streets of hilltop villages and historic today Marseille. Roman conquerors fol- Antonin-sur-Bayon (vins-sainte A Veritable Wine Paradise (rhone-wines.com) are known as “The towns, wonder at past glories in one of the lowed, naming the region Provincia and -victoire.com/vinotheque.html) Provence’s vineyards extend over some Wines of Pleasure.” numerous medieval chateaux, or marvel at further extending vineyards deep into  Maison des Vins Coteaux Varois 200 kilometers (120 miles) between Grapes have been grown on the banks the majestic, three-tiered Roman aque- the surrounding countryside of Provence. en Provence, in La Celle the Mediterranean Sea and the Alps of the Rhône since 125 B.C., when the duct, Pont du Gard. The region’s capital, Today, Jean Giono’s “evidence” is on full (coteaux-varois.com) Mountains in the French departments Roman settlers planted the vineyards of , is loaded with interest and busy display across Provence; in fact, there’s of the , the Bouches du Rhône and, . Today, Côtes du Rhône (located not to be missed with intriguing events. little mystery when it comes to the to a lesser extent, the Alpes-Maritimes. between and Avignon) is France’s Festival of Vine Grape Harvest Options abound for those who want region’s exceptionally warm welcome to Provence vineyards consist of three second-largest winegrowing area, produc- and Wine Festival to learn more about the area’s wines travelers from around the world. major appellations that represent 96 ing wines that range from budget to some Region wide Avignon and foods. The Avignon Food Tour takes What to do? Stay in a château; tour percent of Provence A.O.P. wines: Côtes of the finest labels. The appellations start First Saturday August small groups on taste tours of this historic some vineyards; taste wines; take a de Provence, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, at Côtes du Rhône, and climb through following Ascen- walled city. A Wine Workshop at Maison cooking course; see art and sculpture in and Coteaux Varois en Provence. Côtes du Rhône Villages and the Côtes sion Day Annual Tasting Lavau (lavau.fr/en) in Violès instructs par- world-class museums; go horseback rid- Discover the region’s reds and rosés, du Rhône Villages bearing the name of an New York ticipants in the art of blending wines. And ing; play golf; climb a mountain; and take which are produced from , Gre- actual village. At the top of the scale, the Gourmet Trail September don’t miss the new branch of Université in all the colorful scenery. nache, Cinsault, , Mourvèdre, prestigious Crus of the north and south Valréas du Vin (universite-du-vin.com) opening in And who doesn’t love a glass of chilled and Cabernet Sauvignon are defined only by the name of their Every Thursday The Harvests the new Côtes du Rhône flagship venue, Provence rosé? This rosy-hued . But don’t overlook the whites village, such as Crozes-Hermitage and from June 1 to of Yesteryear Le Carré du Palais, in the heart of Avi- is the glorious, iconic symbol of the comparable: An aromatic bouillabaisse fish of Provence, which feature Rolle, Ugni Beaumes-de-Venise. harvest gnon. The courses — conducted in French, easy-going Provençal lifestyle, a delicious stew from Marseille; a savory garlic-infused Blanc, Clairette, Sémillon, Bourboulenc The best way to understand the diver- October English, Spanish and Dutch, and starting at invitation to better know the region’s vegetable ratatouille, served with grilled Blanc (or Doillon), Blanc and sity of the Côtes du Rhône wines is to Avignon Festival just 39 — are designed for all levels cuisine, culture, history and people. rascasse, a local rock fish, in Saint-Tropez; Sauvignon Blanc grapes. see, smell and taste them in context, on a Avignon Millévin of enthusiast, from novice to aficionado. soupe a pistou, a Provençal answer to visit to this beautiful region dotted with July Avignon

minestrone; or a fresh Niçoise salad, A solitary stroll alongside a sea wine estates, museums, postcard-perfect November TOP: Night in Avignon. Authentic Cuisine, accompanied by a piping hot pissaladière, of lavender. villages and Unesco World Heritage sites. TOP: World-Class Art a crispy, thin Provençal . You might travel along one or more of the For details on these events and more, ABOVE LEFT: A perfect day with LEFT: Cycling in Provence. As with its varied wines, Provence’s region- There is a wealth of sights to see. nine official wine trails that fan out across friends in the Rhône wine region. Photo: Zoé Lemonnier | CIVP go to visitfrenchwine.com/en. al dishes are likewise authentic and truly in- During your drive in Provence, take in all six departements (the Drôme, the Gard,

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Beaujolais Beaujolais Inter Photo: Relais & Châteaux

Sunshine, Diversity and Artistry A World of Privileges eaujolais. The very name is a house- visitor center. A climb to the summit of n France, the 148 member properties produce. Owner Jean-André Charial has hold word brimming with evocative the dates Mont Brouilly rewards with gaze-all-day of Relais & Châteaux (relaischateaux built an outstanding cellar with some promise, hinting at the supple and views over the Saône Valley. You can step .com) — located throughout the coun- 60,000 bottles that include the estate’s Bfruity reds, rosés and whites that spring Rosé, d’Été The Fascinant back through time on visits to the many Itry’s finest wine regions — are dedicated own biodynamic l’Affectif rosé and red. from this beautiful region alongside the The Pierre Week-End chateaux such as Argigny (), La to showcasing the richness and diversity Charial regularly hosts wine workshops Saône River. Dorées villages Vignobles & Chaize (), Corcelles and Juliénas of their individual terroirs. Here is a sam- and tastings, and special food and wine Only 90 minutes by train from Paris, First two weeks Découvertes (Juliénas) with its vaulted cellars. ple of what you could experience. pairing menus are also offered. Sign up Beaujolais (beaujolais.com/en) has been each July Various towns In the south of Beaujolais lie the for a tour of the vineyards and the nearby forging its reputation for fine wine since October famous Pierres Dorées (the Golden Domaine de Verchant Moulin du Castelas, which produces Vallée the days of . Today Beaujolais Beaujolais-vous Stones), 39 traditional villages that get The Occitanie region boasts magnificent des Baux olive oil. is known for its timeless charm and un- Various towns Festival their collective name from the ochre architectural sites, countless natural dulating hills with their corduroy of vines, July 1–Sept. 1 Nouvelles Voix stone of the houses that captures the wonders, and a rich gastronomic and Château de Mirambeau noble chateaux and ivy-walled country Villefranche sunlight. For a treat, book a night or two wine heritage. On the outskirts of one Set at the crossroads of two renowned inns, timeless villages clustered around old- Festival Dezing November in the 800-year-old Château de Bagnols, of its most famous cities, Montpellier, is What’s New wine regions, Bordeaux and Cognac, Châ- stone central squares and, of course, for Aérodrome de now a luxurious Relais & Châteaux hotel Domaine de Verchant (relaischateaux Relais & Châteaux has teamed up teau de Mirambeau (relaischateaux.com its 12 appellations (including 10 celebrated , Saint-Jean The Internation- complete with formal . Or visit .com/verchant). Nestled among 42 acres with local experts to create nine /mirambeau) is a lavish, Renaissance-style crus) and Beaujolais , the popular d’Ardières al Beaujolais during a colorful local festival such as of vineyards, the 16th-century estate has travel itineraries, the “Roads of Happi- castle that sits on 19 acres overlooking the vin de primeur. Aug. 18–20 Marathon Rosé, Nuits d’Eté in July, a celebration of been reimagined as a five-star hotel and ness,” focusing on wine experiences. Gironde estuary. Richly decorated with Making full use of the region’s diverse Villefranche rosé wines and local products. spa, with 26 rooms, suites and apart- Looking for an ideal present for wine ornate fabrics, antique furnishings and terrain, reliable sunshine and ideal grow- Les Vendanges Third Saturday Another unique way to learn more about ments blending ancient history and con- and food lovers? Discover the recent- crystal chandeliers, the 40-room château ing conditions, almost 3,000 winegrowers Musicales in November Beaujolais’ magic is to stay at Château de temporary flair. Le Verchant restaurant ly launched Angels’ Share gift box, is home to a one-Michelin-star restaurant create versatile reds and rosés from the Charnay Pizay, one of the region’s oldest and most serves excellent Mediterranean cuisine including accommodation, dinner and and the “Cognathèque,” a cozy space grapes and whites from Chardon- Mid-September Launch of Beau- famous estates. Now a four-star hotel, paired with the estate’s own cuvées of breakfast, and a wine activity. where you can learn about — and taste nay. Where there is great wine there is jolais Nouveau spa and gourmet restaurant, the chateau rosé, red and white wines. Its three wine — all manner of fine cognacs. Visits can always great food, found everywhere from La Fête du Les Sarmentelles features an “oenotheque” offering eight cellars store an additional 1,500 bottles. For details, visit relaischateaux.com. also be organized to the illustrious cognac Michelin-starred restaurants to brasseries Paradis de Beaujeu different wine-initiation workshops that houses of Hennessy, Rémy-Martin, Martell and small cafés. For oenophiles, foodies, Odenas Five days start- educate guests in the wine-tasting essen- Château de Mercuès and taste its outstanding, award-winning and Camus. Prefer wine over cognac? The history buffs and nature lovers, a tour of October ing on the third tials before putting them to the test in the Surrounded by vineyards, the 13th-centu- vintages. There are also organized winery chateau offers a variety of oenological the area is a treat for all the senses. Thursday in tasting area. And even children can appre- ry fairytale castle of Château de Mercuès tours and harvesting workshops of the experiences, from a private tasting course Follow the official Beaujolais Wine November ciate the artistry and lore behind the Beau- (relaischateaux.com/mercues) lords over famous Malbec grape. on the wines of Bordeaux, to lunch with a Route, traveling at your own pace on foot, jolais wines thanks to Hameau Duboeuf the Lot valley. Owned by the Vigouroux wine specialist, to a visit and tasting of a by bike or car. Starting at Chânes and For details on these events and more, (hameauduvin.com/en), Europe’s only wine family since 1983, the winery hotel fea- Baumanière vintage Grand Cru Classé. ending 90 miles later close to Lyon, it links go to visitfrenchwine.com/en. theme park, tucked away in the village tures a Michelin-star restaurant offering Gastronomy meets at the 54- over 200 cellars, offering tastings of excep- of Romanèche-Thorins. The brainchild of regional delicacies like black room Baumanière Les Baux de Provence tional cuvées from all the different appel- the well-known wine producer Georges truffles and lamb. Guests can (relaischateaux.com/baumaniere), which TOP: Château de Mirambeau. lations. Highlights along the way include Duboeuf, the park entertains while gently visit Château de Mercuès’s famed cellar, a dates from the 17th and 18th centuries. TOP: Château de la Chaize. ABOVE: Château de Mercuès. Beaujeu, the historic capital of Beaujolais, instructing its visitors in the many aromas series of Roman-Byzantine arches carved Its two gourmet restaurants serve simple home to the Maison du Terroir Beaujolais of wine, as well as its remarkable history. into the rock beneath the castle gardens, yet refined cuisine, using locally sourced

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Château de Pommard

300 Years Later: Burgundy Unmasked ust two miles south of the town of , the wine capital of WINE EXPERIENCES Burgundy, Château de Pommard Aimed at enthusiasts from novice to aficionado, the chateau offers (chateaudepommard.com)J sits amid the six immersive wine experiences. 20-hectare Marey-Monge vineyard, containing some of the most famous CLIMATS: Experience the ideal VENDANGES: Participate in the Clos terroir in the wine world. Built in 1726 introduction to Burgundy wines and Marey-Monge wine harvest, hand-pick- and recently acquired by the Carabel- the region’s unique terroir. ing and sorting grapes. lo-Baum family of San Francisco, the chateau is one of the most iconic and PINOT NOIR: Explore the delicate JEUNESSE: Teach youngsters (ages 5 visited wine estates in Burgundy, offer- subtleties of this multifaceted to 17) about the vineyard lifecycle with ing a rare opportunity for wine lovers to in its historic birthplace. this alcohol-free experience. delve deeper into the fascinating world of terroir, viticulture and . : Study with a profession- The seven different terroir of Clos al sommelier who will turn you into a Marey-Monge are so prized for their wine expert in two hours. clay- and limestone-rich soils that their “climat” (the unique identity of the CHARDONNAY: Tour the Chardonnay wines) is protected by Unesco. From appellations to learn about terroir, these celebrated vineyards, the Cara- nature, oak and aging. bello-Baum family creates three highly regarded Pinot Noir “Clos” wines: Vivant Micault, Clos Marey-Monge Monopole been busy since acquiring Château and the limited production Simone. The de Pommard in 2014, transitioning its TOP: Fall in love with life at Château chateau also produces “Family” wines winemaking to biodynamic methods to de Pommard. — Grand Cru, Premier Cru, Village and create finer wines and to better respect A story in every bottle. Bourgogne wines from Chardonnay and the landscape. Last July, the chateau ABOVE: Pinot Noir appellations across the Côte unveiled its new brand and talented new de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. team at the prestigious Hotel de Crillon The chateau also has an education- in Paris. The estate’s new bottle de- Special Offer al mission. Both on-site and in the sign was also revealed, along with new New York Times readers can book Wine Experience Center, Wine & Spirit labels, website and wine experiences. a Wine Experience at Château de Education Trust–trained advisers lead Also in July, the château hosted Root- Pommard in 2018 and receive a small groups from terroir to cellar and stock, Pommard’s first ever music, food complimentary companion ticket. from grape to glass, imparting unique and wine festival, complete with inter- insights into all aspects of Burgundy national and homegrown rock and jazz To claim this offer, visit winemaking. artists, fine wine and champagne, fresh chateaudepommard.com/NYT The Carabello-Baum family has food and fireworks.

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The winery has gone beyond the usual tasting repertoire, adding video projec- tions and 3-D imagery to take you on an immersive journey of its vintage wine collection (A.O.P. Touraine). And no visit to castle country is com- plete without a visit to the 16th-century Château de Chenonceau. Along with a series of illuminated walks in its gardens during the summer months, the château Domaine national Domaine national will present its promising young A.O.P. Touraine- wines (white from de Chambord - Archivolte de Chambord Photo: Photo: Sauvignon and red from Cabernet Franc and Cot) during an event where you can wine held in September. The event fea- Fresh, Fruity and Friendly meet the region’s local . tures semi-nocturnal walks, wine tastings, ne of France’s most stunningly all made from goats’ milk, and its char- of Pouilly Fumé is during FIAAC, or the Your next stop is the largest wine­ a dinner at the Royal Abbey of Fon- scenic and culturally rich regions, cuterie, namely rillettes, a soft paté usu- International Fair of Current Art, a four-day growing in the Loire Valley, An- tevraud, a tour of the vineyards the Loire Valley (loirevalleywine ally made from pork, though duck, rabbit event (April 28 – May 1, 2018) when con- jou-Saumur, which produces many of the by torchlight and classic car outings. O.com) is home to a splendid mix of and fish versions are also available. temporary French and global artists will Loire Valley’s best sweet wines including The Vines, Wines and Walks event takes magnificent architecture, natural beauty exhibit their work in around 20 wine caves. Bonnezeaux, Quarts de Chaume and place the first weekend of September and outstanding wine and gastronomy. More Than Just a Holiday Head west along the river and you’ll , all made from Chenin and includes some 15 organized walks France’s largest Unesco World Heri- Just a two-hour drive south of Paris, soon begin spotting the silhouettes of the Blanc. The region is also known for its throughout the Loire Valley vineyards. tage site, the fertile valley runs along Centre-Loire — home to several key Loire Valley’s magical chateaux. This is the excellent sparkling wines and its famous Winemakers will be present to talk about the majestic Loire River, stretching 250 appellations, including Pouilly-Fumé and Touraine region, and concentrated in 60 fruity rosés (Rosé d’ and Cabernet their wines, and you can also taste a vari- miles from the hills of in central Sancerre — is a beautifully tranquil area to miles are some of France’s most mag- d’Anjou). Here you’ll also find excellent ety of vintages from the region. France to the . It was here begin your exploration of the Loire Valley. nificent castles, dating from the Middle red wines, notably Saumur-Champigny, Pays Nantais, the westernmost region that kings, queens and other built Start in the atmospheric medieval town Ages to the Renaissance period. , one of the Loire Valley’s great Caber- of the Loire Valley, boasts a maritime cli- sprawling feudal castles and fairytale-like of Sancerre, perched high on a rocky Azay-le-Rideau, Chenonceau, , net Franc red wines. And be sure to try mate ideal for growing , a fresh, Renaissance chateaux, whose extrava- outcropping and surrounded by chalky Clos Lucé, Chinon, , — these Savennières, a distinctive dry Chenin affordable dry that pairs per- gant designs, sumptuous furnishings, rich slopes whose vineyards produce some of glorious confections are all easily reach- Blanc that’s slowly gaining in popularity. fectly with seafood and shellfish. In fact, artwork and gardens draw tourists from the world’s most celebrated Sauvignon able from the region’s capital, Tours. Hidden beneath Saumur’s peaceful roll- Muscadet is the largest appellation (in around the world. Blancs. Stop by the Maison des Sancerre, Besides palaces and spectacular scen- ing hills and vineyards are miles of ancient terms of size) in the Loire. Start your visit But the Loire Valley is also France’s an interactive wine center that includes ery, Touraine is known as the Garden of tunnels and caves; these underground here by exploring , an intriguing third-largest and most diverse wine an animated relief map, a 4-D cinema France thanks to its top-notch produce networks are the ideal place to store city that’s an ideal blend of the modern region, producing a dizzying array of and an aromatic garden. Continue your and cheeses. It also boasts a large and wines. At Bouvet-Ladubay in Saumur, you and historic. exceptional wines. There you’ll find the journey at Domaine de la Garenne, which varied wine region, celebrated for its reds can even pedal through the subterranean Just outside the city, the vineyards country’s longest vineyard itinerary, the has produced wines since 1820, and enjoy (especially the Cabernet Franc of Chi- galleries that lie beneath the estate, see stretch along the Loire, Sèvre and 621-mile-long Route du Vin, where more a guided tasting in its cellars. Bringing non), whites (namely ’s Chenin a sunken cathedral carved into the rock Rivers. Here you’ll find Vignoble Marchais, than 1,000 vineyards are open to the together the food, crafts and great wines Blanc and Touraine Sauvignon), rosés, and taste the house’s fine array sparkling set between the towns of Thouaré-sur- public, including some 400 specially of the region, the Sancerre Wine Fair sweet wines and sparkling wine. wines (Saumur and Crémant de Loire). Loire and -sur-Loire, on the banks accredited cellars that allow you to visit (May 19–20, 2018) presents 400 area Delve into Touraine’s wine and gastro- In fact, the whole region is ripe for of the Loire River. The family-owned win- with winemakers and taste their wines. wines. Each village has its own stall, with nomical offerings at Domaine Château exploring by bike. Cycle through the ery has been producing quality Muscadet, Les jardins à la française, From Pays Nantais on the west coast, winemakers offering tastings of the latest Gaudrelle, in , with a cooking vineyards of Saumur Champigny and Chi- opposite: as well as Cabernet Franc, since 1940. Château de Chambord. through Anjou-Saumur, Touraine, and to vintages from Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, lesson and at the non and follow the Loire à Vélo cycling The winery recently introduced Night in a the Centre-Loire, each region has its own Menetou-Salon, Quincy, Reuilly, Co- Chef & Vigneron Workshop. You’ll learn paths to , the historic capital of ; stay overnight in a modified wine FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: characteristic grapes, appellations and teaux-du-Giennois and Châteaumeillant in how Vouvray white wines are made, pre- Anjou. If you’re a true cycling enthusiast, barrel and enjoy a tour of the cellar, wine styles — from crisp, food-friendly Musca- the cellars of Caves de la Mignonne. pare dishes under the guidance of a chef be sure to visit in June for the Anjou Vélo The Château de Chenonceau. tastings and a breakfast basket. dets to rich Chinons to the finest sau- Opposite Sancerre, on bank using fresh local products and, of course, Vintage, when for one weekend thou- Photo: JDamase CRT Centre - Val de Loire With a seemingly endless opportunity vignon blancs and sparkling rosés. And of the Loire River, is another appellation enjoy the fruits of your labor paired with sands gather to pedal on vintage bicycles Vignobles de Savennières. to experience history, heritage, fine wines the Loire Valley wines are an invitation famed for its Sauvignon Blanc: Pouil- the chateau’s elegant Vouvray wines. across the beautiful vineyards of Anjou. Photo: Philippe Caharel and excellent food in the Loire Valley, to a whole host of gastronomic delights. ly-Fumé, whose unique terroir gives its A unique sensorial experience can be The Anjou-Saumur region hosts many Vineyards of Sancerre. your choices can seem overwhelming, Among the specialties the area is known wines their distinctive smoky aroma and had at Les Caves Duhard, a short dis- other celebrations throughout the year Photo: Philippe Caharel but not to worry — the important thing is for are appellation-controlled cheeses, flinty flavor. Experience the wine cellars tance from the famed Amboise Palace. including Festivini, a festival of culture and just to get there.

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