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Andrew Jefford was joined by Alex Hunt MW and Charles Metcalfe in a tasting that divided opinion on matters of balance, ripeness, and vitality but which featured many charming wines from Corsica, Languedoc, Provence, and Roussillon

t’s just over 340 miles (550km) amply constituted wines (like the Mediterranean locations are in fact top 11 were IGP rather than AOP; honors were shared more evenly. Note ANDREW JEFFORD'S TOP WINES from Menton, on the French–Italian slightly cooler than those figures would the two categories compete fairly and that the wines were regionally grouped Deusyls from La Pèira) appealed greatly border, to Cerbère, where France suggest, since the vast majority of squarely in this region. Southern within our blind tasting; it would be Domaine Gavoty Cuvée Clarendon to my palate but not to Hunt’s—though I Côtes de Provence 2011 17.5 meets Spain. That’s farther than the appellation whites are found at higher, France is still principally red-wine interesting to see if this result were Metcalfe’s broad palate seemed to distance between Chablis and Avignon. breezier altitudes than the urban country, and the extension of its duplicated with a random serving order. Domaine Gavoty Cuvée Clarendon accommodate both. Côtes de Provence 2013 17 The latter journey, though, involves weather stations cited, with often appellations to include white wines is Mas Champart Saint-Chinian 2013 17 If you are to enjoy the majority of 3.9 degrees of latitude; the former, a striking diurnal temperature often recent. Apart from one or two A future for all Domaine Gardiés Les Glaciaires these wines, it is indeed important to mere 1.2. Those are the figures that differences, without summer heat local specialties (like the Grenache Opinions about and scores for the Côtes du Roussillon 2013 17 remember that Chablis they are not. fundamentally explain why, in the spikes, and with much colder winters. family in Roussillon and Bourboulenc wines varied significantly, with Alex La Pèira en Damasèla Deusyls Pays D’Hérault Personally, Chablis I hope they never tasting of French Mediterranean white I suspect that very few, if any, of these in La Clape), the precise constitution Hunt’s top wines averaging a modest IGP 2012 17 become; this is a different place wines that follows, there were no stark wines were acid-adjusted. of individual blends remains a work 16.06, mine an equable 16.88, and Domaine de Bébian Prieuré Saint Jean de Bébian altogether. I don’t long for a pure Languedoc 2013 16.5 differences of balance and wealth of What about grape varieties? Here in progress. None is yet lapidary. Charles Metcalfe’s an enthusiastic 17.83. Vermentino from coastal Provence to Château Hermitage Saint-Martin Ikon Blanc flavor among the contending wines, the picture is one of huge complexity. Blends, though, would seem to have Views of individual wines often, too, Côtes de Provence 2013 16.5 exhibit “vitality” in the way that a wine despite the fact that they are produced Of the top 11 wines, all of which won our tasting day over varietal wines. showed wide disparities. Hunt criticized Domaine de la Rectorie L’Argile Collioure 2012 16.5 from northern France might; nor do in locations distant from one another. achieved an aggregate score of either Most of the whites from Provence the “neutrality” he perceived in the they have me reaching for my lemons. Essentially, these are gentle, languid, 16 or 15.5, no wine contained fewer and from Corsica are made from whites of Provence and the Languedoc’s What I love about the Vermentino- AVERAGE AND RANGE OF SCORES sometimes delicate and sometimes lush than two varieties (even the “varietal” Vermentino alone (sometimes known “tendency to sweet flabbiness”; based whites of Provence and Corsica white wines produced within a single, Grenache Blanc from Clos des Fées in France as Rolle), and these were “Chablis this is not,” he wrote about Average Range is precisely their gentleness, their warm-climate zone. The best of them contains a little Grenache Gris) and generally less liked than the blends one Provence white, lamenting its softness, their stealthiness, their beguile and please the drinker via their some (like the whites from Mas Jullien from Languedoc and Roussillon—with lack of “vitality.” He wrote of another Tasting 14.5 7–19 quiet aromatic charm, often hinting

textures, their multilayered complexity, and Clos Bagatelle) contain six or more the exception of my own tasting sheet, Provence white that “it cries out for a AH 13.5 12–17.5 at wild flowers and aniseed, and and their aromatic intricacy. varieties. The most common varieties where the top wine and one of the four metaphorical squeeze of lemon.” their nourishing almondy richness. Warm? A comparison of the average in those first 11 wines are probably second-placed wines was a single Issues of ripeness and balance are, AJ 15 10.5–17.5 Alongside them, Languedoc’s whites growing-season temperatures provided Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, but varietal Vermentino (the Cuvée I think, the key point of contention for do indeed seem more baroque, more in the seventh edition of Johnson’s and the full list includes Grenache Gris, Clarendon from Domaine Gavoty) these wines, and the issue came to a CM 15 7–19 exuberant, and often more challenging Robinson’s World Atlas of Wine shows Carignan Blanc, Maccabeu, Clairette, in two different vintages. Charles head with the 2011 Coume Gineste from —they are wines that dare more and, Béziers with 66.7°F (19.3°C), and both Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Vermentino, Metcalfe’s top nine wines included two Domaine Gauby, an early-picked, 12.5% perhaps as a consequence, fail more, Perpignan and Bastia on Corsica with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Picpoul, Corsican Vermentino wines, but only blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache WHAT I LOVE ABOUT too, though the successes are notable. 67.6˚F (19.8˚C). These are similar figures Bourboulenc, Petit Manseng, Terret one Provence Vermentino made it into Blanc. This wine achieved Hunt’s top THE VERMENTINO- And Roussillon’s whites, over and to those for Napa, 66.8˚F (19.3˚C); Blanc, and Terret Gris. (Terret, by the Alex Hunt’s top eight. mark (and one of Charles Metcalfe’s beyond any disagreements about Stellenbosch, 67.5˚F (19.7˚C); and way, is now an obscure relic—Mas Did one region emerge from the second-highest scores), while I gave it BASED WHITES OF ripeness and balance, seem better Barossa, 67.6˚F (19.8˚C). Note, though, Champart’s is 110 years old—but Terret pack? Yes. For both Alex Hunt and my lowest mark of all. Hunt loved its PROVENCE AND anchored in the non-fruit flavors we call that the overall latitudes in France are Gris was once the most widely planted Charles Metcalfe, that region was pungency (which he described as lying CORSICA IS PRECISELY “mineral,” in allusions to stone and in much higher than their non-European grape in the Languedoc.) Roussillon: Half of Alex Hunt’s top eight somewhere between Fino Sherry and saline hints. Out of these things, indeed, equivalents, meaning that these Some of these varieties have been wines were from Roussillon, as were all Vin Jaune): “like a Margarita stripped of THEIR GENTLENESS, comes a natural vitality, still amply temperatures are achieved over longer sanctioned for use in appellations, and of Charles Metcalfe’s top four, despite fruit and alcohol.” Metcalfe twice noted THEIR SOFTNESS, apparent in those wines (like the Clos day lengths in summer. My own belief others not—hence the fact that the the fact that Roussillon fielded only its high acidity. For me, though, it was THEIR QUIET des Fées Grenache Vieilles Vignes and (as a Languedoc resident and former tasting included both IGP and AOP eight wines in total, compared to unripe, uneasy, and ungiving, a “barely the Gardiés Les Glaciaires) that have Adelaide resident) is that the French wines. It’s worth noting that five of the 12 from Languedoc. On my sheet, the ripe” wine with a bitter finish. More AROMATIC CHARM ripened fully. The future beckons for all.

194 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 48 | 2015 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 48 | 2015 | 195 tasting / savor / French Mediterranean Whites Alex Hunt MW AH | Andrew Jefford AJ | Charles Metcalfe CM SAVOR: FRENCH MEDITERRANEAN WHITES Domaine du Clos des Fées white chocolate, fresh pear, and barley sugar. white, which could easily fulfill the function of a creamy flesh and lemony acidity. It’s young and have to love sweet, heavy flavors to enjoy it. Grenache Blanc Vieilles Vignes 16 Lovely, ripe, demonstrative wine, with lots of red at table. Gloriously opulent, with complexity, still evolving, but already delicious, with candied ALEX HUNT MW’S VERDICT With the only actual fruit note being caramelized Côtes Catalanes 2013 (14% ABV) powerful flavors and enough acidity and spine stature, and presence. | 19 creaminess and bright, tangy freshness. A banana, you get the picture. Not my cup of tea, to balance them. There was probably some oak pleasure to taste. | 17 The great unifying theme here was texture. this. | 13 AH | This is fairly neutral on the nose, with a vague aging involved as well, and a little note of that With the natural generosity and low acid AJ | Bright white gold. Warm, soft, orchard fruit sense of warmth and ripeness, but little in the way creeps through. But the flavors are so intense and that a warm climate brings, as well as scents; elegant and fresh, doughy, enticing. of identifiable individual aromas. The palate has exotic that they shrug off the oak. Big, successful grape varieties that contribute a degree Vivid, lively, and long on the palate, with plenty lovely structure, with fresh balance, a long finish, white. | 18 of richness, most of the wines were full, of almondy depth and poised white fruits. Fresh, and appealing saltiness. There’s a certain citrus rounded, Rubenesque affairs. Success, but very complete, too, and with the aromatic therefore, depended on two things. First, cut to it, but really this is a wine that is all about intricacy a good southern white needs to give it is the richness combined with delicacy, architecture, not aroma—a sort of white cube. personality and profile.| 16 or is the wine heavy? Second, does it have Remarkably, it works very well. | 16 CM | There’s the faintest hint of something not sufficient aromatic interest to bring the AJ | Pale silver-gold. Very gentle and understated quite white to this (maybe a little Grenache Gris, texture to life? aromatic profile but full of soft nougat and anise Those that managed to tick both these or something even darker?). The aromas are charm; billowy in style. Graceful and attractive, Mas Jullien Pays d’Hérault IGP Mas Champart Saint-Chinian rich and structured and might even suggest red 16 15.5 boxes flew a proud flag for the region, with a gentle blow of orchard fruit, too. Later a 2012 (13.5% ABV) 2013 (14% ABV) combining broad structure with evocative grapes vinified white. There’s definite grip in the little more savory. Again, a more vivid and vital Clos Bagatelle Le Clos de ma mineral-piney aromas and fresh-plump mouth, too, with apple and butter flavors and balance than I was expecting: Perhaps (for some AH | This wine seems to be aiming for a tauter, Mère Saint-Chinian 2013 15.5 AH | While not as extreme as [Mas Champart fruit in a way that is difficult to replicate slight tannins. I like this—it’s a wine of character obscure mineral reason) Roussillon can manage fresher style than its peers. Paler in color, with a (13.5% ABV) Pays d’Oc (Terret/Grenache Gris) 2013], this is elsewhere. They were in a small minority, and personality, and it could cope with fairly this in a way that Languedoc and Provence can’t? slight rubbery whiff of reduction, there is also an still in the caramel/vanilla/banana world of sweet however. Well over half the wines were, rich seafood dishes and reduced sauces. Not a Anyway, this is a lively, lemony wine of lift and attractive spice and the sense of fruit waiting to AH | A real fruit salad of a nose, with red apple, aroma. Nice balance and texture on the palate to my palate, either too neutral to offer conventional wine, but one with an individual and poise. The secondary intrigues come from a emerge. The palate shows real density without apricot, melon, and also something spicy, like cannot quite redeem the narrow range of banoffee much inherent interest, or too heavy to interesting message. | 17.5 stony hint in the finish, and a touch of salinity that heaviness, and fine structure keeping the evident preserved ginger. The palate offers a satisfying flavors, leaving the wine ultimately feeling simple be refreshing, or both. Provence tended takes the wine out to the edges of the tongue. richness of fruit in check. If taking some structural continuation of these aromas, marshaled by a and heavy. | 13.5 strongly toward neutrality, though at least Domaine Gauby Coume Gineste Understated but excellent white. | 16 influence from Burgundy, it nevertheless has an well-judged structure that prevents the wine from AJ | Pale to mid-gold. Clean, and subtly fruity: with some delicacy and charm in the better Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes 15.5 CM | Fresh, interestingly fruity aromas of lemon apricot character on the finish that belongs firmly seeming soppy while remaining quite discreet. fresh, subtle yellow fruits but also a hint of wines. The Languedoc lineup erred more on 2011 (12.5% ABV) and white peach. Good acidity balancing quite rich in the south. | 16 Characterful and refined.| 16 pineapple and lime. All very harmonious and the side of heaviness, with several cloying, wine, both in terms of fruit intensity and alcohol. AJ | Pale gold. Rather neutral in the context of its AJ | Pale old gold. Very beguiling, gently aniseedy understated withal. The palate opens with some butterscotchy clunkers and worryingly AH | This still pale straw-coloured wine has a rapid evolution overall. It’s a big style and will settle down with more time peers: white pear fruit and soft floral notes. Fresh, scents, with a lovely creamy richness to them. perfumed width, but there is plenty of more linear distinct pungency that lies somewhere between The Roussillon flight was the clear in bottle, but everything seems in balance, and it lively, and more expressive on the palate than the Very similar on the palate: lovely charm and push and follow-through here; for me, it is one of the apple skin and nuts of Fino Sherry and the winner for me, fielding as it did some should evolve well over the next year or so. | 16.5 aromas suggested it would be; an almost-juicy grace to this; not huge concentration, presence, the more concentrated of the 2013 Languedoc mountain tang of Vin Jaune, without, presumably, genuinely exciting wines that managed to wine, full of orchard fruits, buoyed by lively though or tenacity of flavor, though. This is, in other whites. There’s creaminess and richness, but the influence of flor! There is a real savor and avoid both Provence’s excessive modesty ripe acidity, which has a tangerine cling to it. Very words, one of those wines where one has to freshness and perfume, too. Beautifully composed, and the Languedoc’s tendency to sweet citrus-saltiness to the palate here. Like a margarita tasty and moreish. | 15.5 decide how to reward disposition of flavor against and an outstanding effort here.| 17 flabbiness. Some wines achieved this stripped of fruit and alcohol and instead focused CM | Apple and creamy toffee aromas. Fresh accumulation of flavor... It’s a kind of Kabinett of CM | Creamy, still young, with a hint of peardroppy through the straightforward expression on dense, savory flavors, this is a challenging wine in the mouth, with good acidity and pleasing the south. I’m going to reward it, as to me it is just youth. Pleasant, buttery, candied, with good of interesting vineyards; others through of real distinction. The coherence from first smell roundness. Well balanced, with enough freshness so pretty and so true to its place, even if it doesn’t acidity and freshness. Not a very complex wine, detectable winemaking quirks that through to the finish is remarkable. | 17.5 to support the more opulent side, and a faint hint have the persistence, the sap, and the savor of a but pleasant and fresh. Has some of the toffeed introduced an oxidative tang. Both routes AJ | Very pale silver-gold. Rather confined scents of tannin. The creamy, toffeed note persists to the great white Burgundy. | 16 flavors that mark many of these wines.| 15.5 were demonstrably successful. of anise and wheat grain or wheat beer. Thin and end, buoyed up by good acidity. Not a complex CM | Still has a hint of the peardrops of youth, That said, overall this remains an barely ripe on the palate, with more wheat-beer wine, but successful in its limited aims. | 16 but evolving to creamier aromas. The flavors are esoteric category of wine, no longer complexities; to me, this tastes like the work of fresh, with good acidity and pleasing fresh pear bargain-priced, in which too many someone who is not at ease with their place in the Le Soula Vin de Pays des Côtes and candy notes. This is not a complex wine, and examples are, despite their uniqueness Catalonian sun, afraid of ripeness, and generally 16 Catalanes 2009 (14% ABV) it fades rather fast on the finish, but it’s pleasant and regional expression, rather dull. fretting about all the wrong things. No doubt the Domaine Gardiés Les Glaciaires and should last until the 2015 summer season. wine has its fans, but I’m not one, alas. Bitter Côtes du Roussillon 2013 16 AH | Deep gold/amber in color, this wine is Just. | 14.5 TOP WINES finish. | 10.5 (13.5% ABV) showing its age. The nose has some agreeable CM | Complex, savory nose, with herby, balsamic, salty tang to it, but the impression is dulled Domaine de Bébian Prieuré citrussy aromas. Acidity is high, and is keeping Domaine Gauby Coume Gineste Vin de Pays AH | A slightly cloudy appearance and a dull compared to the [Domaine Gauby Coume Gineste Saint Jean de Bébian Languedoc 15.5 this in good shape. It’s very full-bodied, rich, and honey/nut aroma do not bode well here. The Vin de Pays des Côte Catalanes 2011]. The 2013 (14% ABV) des Côtes Catalanes 2011 17.5 opulent but has this lovely spine of acidity, as well. palate is thick and phenolic, but we’re missing palate, however, is still brimming with life, with Domaine St Sebastien Inspiration Minérale The result is a wine that has developed but is still the full-on pungency and spirit of an orange a bready/yeasty component that complements AH | Dried peaches, heady floral notes, and Collioure 2013 16.5 in astonishing shape and a delight to drink now, or wine. This seems like a halfway house, of the dried-peach fruit. Dry, savory, balanced, and some oak make for an appealing if quite rich to keep another few years. | 18.5 Clos Bagatelle Le Clos de ma Mère Saint-Chinian limited interest. | 13 characterful, there is still much to recommend nose. The palate, though, tends toward heavy AJ | Full light lemon-yellow. Lots of developed here. | 15.5 butterscotch and buttered toast, quite forgetting 2013 16 Domaine de Mortiès 15.5 aromatic appeal here: ripe autumn apple, AJ | Full yellow-gold, but it is a 2009. Rather about the fruit. The result is rather clumsy and Domaine du Clos des Fées Grenache Blanc Languedoc 2012 (14.5% ABV) creamy lemon, some oat flake, lime pith, crushed “candy crush” on the aromas; evolved, but was it old-fashioned. | 12.5 Vieilles Vignes Côtes Catalanes 2013 16 stone. An excellent aromatic profile, though wise policy to keep? A touch oxidized, in truth. A AJ | Full gold in the context of this tasting. Much AH | Attractive aromas of cooked peaches and Mas Jullien Pays D’Hérault IGP 2012 16 oddly reminiscent of mature Blanc de Blancs little bit heavy and monotonous in flavor, though more characterful and assertive aromas than were varnished wood. The palate is soft and fairly rich, Champagne when you’ve let all the gas out of there is plenty of flavor and it has the Catalonian evident in the Provençal flight, this Languedoc Sainte-Fleur Triennes Viognier Mediterranée but not cloyingly so, the fruit flavors and delicately it (less acidity, of course). Long, full, sustained flavors of straw, wild flowers, powdery stone. white smells of stone and straw, as well as white IGP 2013 15.5 balanced acid together giving just enough lift palate, in which fruit notes are in fact recessive, Solid, well-crafted wine, but I would have preferred peach; there’s a hint of pale leather, too. On the and energy. Alcohol is evident, and this is not a Château Hermitage Saint-Martin Ikon Blanc but there is lots of non-fruit “mineral” width to it with a little more youthful vitality. | 13.5 palate, it is round, full, and satisfying, with plenty Mas Champart Pays d’Oc complex wine, but it does have charm. | 15 Côtes de Provence 2013 15.5 support the wine and give it length and drive. CM | Full yellow-gold in color, this has obviously of vinous depth and drive. The flavors remind me (Terret/Grenache Gris) 2013 15.5 AJ | Clear butter yellow. A super nose, in truth— Again (with Roussillon), there is lively, vital had longer in bottle than most wines here. of mixed white and yellow fruits dressed with a (13.5% ABV) Le Soula Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes yes, it’s toward the richer end of the spectrum, but acidity, and once again it seems to have a kind of The nose is savory and opulent, with the fruit little light honey; the finish is more like almond 2009 15.5 there are lovely, intriguing, complex notes of white percussive, mineral quality. This is serious, subtle aromas running from lemon to melon and even nougat. An excellent Mediterranean white. | 16.5 AH | Extraordinarily sweet, creamy, heady nose: almond, of marzipan, of ginger spice, of baked white wine. | 17 to pineapple. The acidity is excellent and well CM | Creamy, rich, pleasing. A slightly toffeed like brandy butter. Structure-wise, the palate is honey, and of coriander. On the palate, you re-find CM | Rich, exotic, and savory, with aromas of balances all this opulent fruit. Very rich, exotic overtone. The flavor is good, balanced between nicely balanced and delineated, but you would many of those aromatic elements, clustered

196 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 48 | 2015 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 48 | 2015 | 197 tasting / savor / French Mediterranean Whites Alex Hunt MW AH | Andrew Jefford AJ | Charles Metcalfe CM SAVOR: FRENCH MEDITERRANEAN WHITES together in a central palate that is more almondy AJ | Pale silver-gold. Attractive if shy scents of Domaine de la Rectorie L’Argile Domaine Gavoty Cuvée peers, but there is perfumed citrus, too, to add entirely enjoyable, balanced wine. | 15 15 than fruity. Richly southern all over; glycerous cream and jasmine. Very delicate and pretty. On Collioure 2012 (14% ABV) Clarendon Côtes de Provence 15 charm and intricacy, and clean lemony acidity to AJ | Pale silver-gold. Relatively simple, principally in texture; super-low acidity. Surely barrel- the palate, this is a soft, mid-weight wine with 2013 (13.5% ABV) shape it all up. Not a lot of primary fruit, though, fruity scents: fresh pear and dessert apple, a fermented, and some will find it all a little much, quite a sweet spectrum of flavors: more jasmine AH | This wine has developed a slight pink-amber and some may find that marrowy middle palate a little leaf, a hint of coriander. Lots of spice-seed but for me it’s an exciting wine of extravagance and citrus blossom over delicate white peach tinge, and it smells excessively mature for its age. AH | Aromatically rather dull, with traces of little uneventful. I like this wine a lot, though, and flavors dominate the recessive fruits in a palate and difference, and I love it. | 16 (and some oak). Lots of finesse and elegance. The structure remains excellent, with a creamy, dried peach but mostly heavy, floral aromas. it would perform well with food. | 15 which has depth yet exhibits less of the “mineral” CM | Ripe, opulent, exotic, with buttery richness A whisper of clean, lemony acidity freshens the pithy plumpness and almond/apricot flavor, but The palate is fairly concentrated, though more CM | Crisp, fresh, lemony aromas, with overtones vivacity that the best of its Roussillon peers have. and cooked apple aromas. There’s something wine. Very attractive; very sippable. | 16.5 the wine lacks aromatic vigor. | 13.5 through thickness of texture than intensity of of boiled sweets. The palate is simple, clean, A little short and pinched on the finish.| 11.5 slightly savory on the palate as well, giving CM | Aromas of oak, lemon, and pine are AJ | A hint of old gold in the color of this wine. flavor. The occasional green leafy note lends a and lemony, the main flavor reminding me of CM | Lovely, delicate aromas, with lemon and it individuality and appeal. Rich, creamy, and immediately apparent. First impression is in Resolved, mellow, honeyed, and harmonious bit of freshness, but mostly this feels solid and the lemon-flavored sweets in round tins that my lavender predominant. Fresh but rich on the opulent. You could almost use this to match pan- fact a little reminiscent of a lemon-and-pine- aromas; a smooth porridge of yellow fruit. More workmanlike. | 13.5 parents deployed to keep me quiet on long car palate, with very good acidity balancing savory, fried foie gras. It fades rather fast on the finish but scented domestic product. Oak takes over on the concentrated than I expected on the palate, AJ | Pale silver-gold. Light, delicate scents of journeys. Pleasant, uncomplicated. | 14.5 intense flavors. This really seems to have some of is fun while it’s in the mouth. | 15 palate, still with lemony acidity and a distinctly with deliciously rich, honeyed flavors. Super angelica and white spring blossoms: very pretty. the herbal aromas of the countryside woven into piney note. This may have picked up notes from composition and harmony here. I wouldn’t Hint of pineapple, too. Poised, fresh, and gently its complexity. The main thrust is creamy and surrounding pines but is somewhat unnerving. keep it a moment longer than you have to, but articulated flavors of white summer fruits with rich, with tangy acidity and lemony freshness, And too oaky for me. | 13.5 it is a deliciously ripe and generous wine that, anise and more spring blossom on the palate. and the herbal interplay around the edges. | 18.5 nonetheless, has real balance and poise, as much Very delicate and gestural wine, but satisfying, because the fruit has been so well handled and too. Beautifully disposed; wonderful restraint. treated as for any other reason. Truly limpid Japanese art, turned into white wine. | 17 vinification: It’s a mouthful of late summer in CM | Pleasantly candied aroma, with notes of French Catalonia. | 16.5 lemon and butter. Acidity is fresh and pleasingly CM | Rich, ripe, very generous yellow-fruit tangy, and the general impression is of a soft, aromas. There’s a hint of oak on the palate, but gentle white, unchallenging, but attractively the fruit is just about intense enough to carry it. crisp. | 14.5 Toffeed flavors mingle with lemon and stone fruit. Acidity supports all. I’d rather this didn’t show Château Sainte Roseline La La Pèira en Damasèla Deusyls quite so much oak flavor, but it’s a pretty good, Chapelle de Sainte Roseline Pays d’Hérault IGP 2012 15.5 rich white. | 15.5 Côtes de Provence 2012 15 (14.5% ABV) (14% ABV)

AH | Despite a bit of green-apple freshness, AH | Bordering on neutral, this nose nonetheless this is essentially one of the flight’s several shows an attractive creamy quality and a touch Domaine St Sebastien banoffee-flavored wines. The extra degree of zing of apricot perfume. The palate is a bit thick and Inspiration Minérale Collioure 14.5 is welcome, but it is still ultimately subsumed pappy; it cries out for a metaphorical squeeze of 2013 (14% ABV) in creamy butterscotch notes. The impression lemon. | 13.5 overall is heavy, despite the relative finesse to the AJ | Mid-gold. Restrained scents of dry leaf and AH | A delightful paradox: a very ripe, mineral- structure. | 13.5 wheat flakes. Smooth, long, unctuous flavors, dominated wine, all piney herbs and warm AJ | Full yellow-gold. Very creamy and with a more apricotty and yellow-fruit character rocks in place of fruit—but it works. The palate sumptuous; almost Pessac-Léognan-like. Lovely than many of its Provençal peers. Ample, full, manages not to break the spell either, with a creamy lanolin and freshly laundered linen. gently chewy white of weight and persistence, delicate crème patissier flavor and a slightly There’s just a mist of lime and lime pith drifting though not a lot of aromatic focus. | 15 grippy texture knitting those flavors together. A over this to give it a little complexity. A really CM | Creamy, subtle, candied, with hints of really beguiling, gently bonkers wine. | 16.5 lovely nose: bravo. On the palate, it is fresher Clos Venturi Vin de Corse lemon and oak. Attractively matured wine, AJ | Bright silver-gold. Exciting aromatic and more fruity than the nose suggested (though (Appellation Vin de Corse which has gained complexity in the aging. The complexities here: nuts and milled cereal grains, 15 barrel-fermented); vivid, both creamy and fresh, Côntrolée) 2007 (13.5% ABV) creamy, candied richness is well supported by oat flake and soft lemon, with some creamier with light citrus and even a little daring green Clos Bagatelle Saint-Chinian fresh acidity, and the wine is still vigorous and a input from successful barrel fermentation. 15 apple for balance. A wonderfully gastronomic 2013 (13.5% ABV) AH | Mature but quite lively, this nose offers pleasure to drink. | 16.5 Sappier and more vividly lemony on the palate wine. No huge concentration and intercellular warm leesy, appley notes—think Chablis on a than I expected from the aroma: long, vivid, and tightness, however; but in stylistic terms, hard AH | With a bright apricot-jam note—even beach holiday. The palate is pretty, with a piney aromatically complex, though without a great to fault. A southern classical white of true poise apricot eau de vie—this has a definite late-harvest lift and lots of character, but it does sag in the deal of fruit complexity. Nonetheless, a very and finesse.| 17 quality on the nose. The palate, conversely, is middle, with slightly tired, nutty flavors.| 14 good southern white of adaptable, food-friendly CM | Rich, creamy, savory aromas. A buttery start quite linear, mineral, medium-bodied, and very AJ | Full gold, as you’d expect from the balance. | 14.5 to this in the mouth, but well balanced by lemony dry in feel: more Atlantic than Mediterranean! oldest wine in the tasting. A rich, evolved, CM | Very strong oak aromas, with a balsamic acidity. More development and evolution than This, then, is a wine of two halves, both of which honeycomb full of aromas: tangy, bready, and hint in the background. The acidity is good, but some, but it has the balance to stand this. Creamy, are attractive in themselves, but which don’t the (oddly Rieslingesque) fruits now baked in Sainte-Fleur Triennes Viognier the oak use completely dominates the wine. I candied, rich, with good acidity and lovely butter particularly cohere. | 14.5 an earthenware dish in the oven. Lush, soft, Mediterranée IGP 2013 15 really have little idea of what this wine might and toffee-apple flavors. Also a characteristic AJ | Full pale gold. Elegant and fresh, with a sense smooth, and round, with great seamlessness (13.5% ABV) have been if it had never seen oak. From start musky, slightly mysterious Grenache Blanc/Gris of the wind in the pine trees here; some clean and harmony. A survivor, and a lovely southern to finish, oak is the only flavor that comes note. More length than many. | 16.5 lanolin behind. Vivid, full, and round on the palate, white to sip on a warm Corsican evening, though AH | Quite lively apricot aromas, but they seem through. Pity. | 13 balanced by clean lemon-pine fruit; no oiliness personally I would prefer it with a little more a bit bruised, even moldy. Something not quite Château Hermitage Saint- at all. A state-of-the-art Languedoc white. Well detail in youth. | 14 pure here. With high intensity and a notably Clos Canarelli Corse Figari 14.5 Martin Ikon Blanc Côtes de crafted and intricate. | 15.5 CM | Dark yellow-gold and obviously mature. This chalky feel to the palate, this is a challenging Mas Cristine Côtes du (AOC) 2012 (13% ABV) 15 15 Provence 2013 (13% ABV) CM | Curious nose, with a hint of raspberry! has complex, bottle-aged aromas, of toast, lemon, (as opposed to “easy-drinking”) wine, offering Roussillon 2013 (14% ABV) Creamy, fresh, quite full-bodied, with good acidity and buttered bananas. Even a whiff of petrol. The uncompromising thrills. Something to drink with AH | There’s an appealing spectrum of aromas AH | Delicate yet very perfumed: hyacinths and and rich, ripe fruit. There’s lemon in there, but flavor is rich and complex, with some slightly relish rather than sniff contemplatively. | 15.5 AH | A warm nose but still in the fruit spectrum, here—from buttered toast, to red apple and honeysuckle, apricot and melon. Barrel-ferment also this slightly disconcerting note of raspberry. resinous pine notes sneaking in, as well. It’s an AJ | Pale to mid-gold. Some gentle spice elegance this has apricot and herbal notes with a bit of peach. The palate is not obviously aged and yet character is kept well in the background. A little Something faintly appley as well. An unexpected impressive wine, still in fine form, though it may on the aromas here, plus tangerine citrus. Very a yeasty/bready edge. The palate is still quite lacks a spark of freshness: It’s a bit pappy and heavy in texture, with a certain earthy quality, but lineup of flavors, but it’s all adding up to a pleasing be reaching its apogee. A fascinating example of clean and lots of fresh lift. On the palate, it is a youthful in flavor, with a nice apricot-skin bland. Unfortunately, little to engage the drinker heaps of character. | 15.5 whole. | 15.5 a mature Corsican white. | 17.5 fuller and more marrowy wine than some of its pithiness to the texture. Fairly straightforward but past the first couple of sips.| 13

198 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 48 | 2015 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 48 | 2015 | 199 tasting / savor / French Mediterranean Whites Alex Hunt MW AH | Andrew Jefford AJ | Charles Metcalfe CM SAVOR: FRENCH MEDITERRANEAN WHITES AJ | Pale gold. Lots of toasted almond here; and a little raw in scent, with pear fruit behind. because this was probably splendidly opulent a Domaine Gavoty Cuvée CM | Savory, buttery, but not wildly exciting. This CHARLES METCALFE’S VERDICT lemon, lime, and a hint of sour milk, too. Lively, fresh, vinous, and long, without much year ago. Now declining. | 14 Clarendon Côtes de Provence 13.5 has fresh acidity, definite notes of tannin, and a Intriguing. Fresh, subtle, nutty, and with an primary fruit (pear again) but with plenty 2011 (14% ABV) creamy, toffeed flavor. Somehow, in this case, exotic allure, thanks to that original collection It is great to have a series of Mediterranean of sappy, vegetal notes (cucumber). More they don’t quite fit together. And the finish is very of allusions. Well-crafted white with a story French whites dominated by indigenous concentrated than some of its peers. This is a AH | Aromatically almost completely neutral, this short. Is this past its best? Or perhaps there was to tell. | 13.5 grape varieties. And I don’t include young wine, so it may be that a year or two wine does show some crispness and unripe melon never an optimum moment. | 13 CM | Aromas are rich, creamy, maybe barrel Viognier, as I think of it as a Northern more in bottle brings extra charm. But for the character on the palate. There is some decent mid- fermented. There’s good freshness here, and Rhône variety. (There didn’t seem to be time being it is a little stiff and inarticulate. | 14 palate weight. But you have to look hard for the lively acidity, to balance the rich, creamy flavors. much sign of Viognier, anyway.) Grenache CM | Rich, opulent, with a color moving toward interest here. | 12.5 Blanc, Grenache Gris, and Macabeu A wine that is developing well, with lovely light gold. This has a creaminess that suggests AJ | Bright white-gold. Fresh, light, and lively, with seemed to be the dominant grapes in many balance between acidity and (quite powerful) it may have seen some older oak barrels but plenty of mayflower and hawthorn blossom. On of the wines. They have an inherently alcohol. Opulent, balanced, and excellent is unencumbered by oak aromas and flavors. the palate, the wine is light, graceful, and fresh creamy richness, which gives an easy drinking. | 17.5 Acidity is lively, and there’s a lovely tanginess, yet well rounded and gently creamy too; there are opulence to the wines, but sometimes they lack a bit of backbone. also straying into lemon and cream flavors. Fresh, more of the floral notes that were evident on the The best wines had a lovely balance bright, opulent. | 17 aroma, and it has admirable freshness for a 2011. between this opulence and a bright acidity, Domaine les Aurelles Aurel Lots of almondy depth provides plenty of mid- Château d’Anglès La Clape Côteaux du Languedoc palate satisfaction. An outstanding Provençal white sometimes showing notes of oak 14 14 fermentation, especially texturally. Too Languedoc 2012 (14.5% ABV) (Roussanne) 2011 (14.5% ABV) with both charm and concentration. Grated nougat many, however, were overwhelmed by the sprinkled over the finish: glorious. Wonderful flavors of new oak-barrel fermentation and AH | With a golden tinge to the color and a nutty, AH | A deep golden color makes the lively cooked- drinking; wonderful white wine. | 17.5 maturation. If producers want these wines autumnal feel to the peach fruit, this wine seems peach fruit a welcome surprise on the nose. The CM | This seems to be slightly losing its freshness. to taste of wine, and the place where the to be maturing apace. Heavy in the mouth, with a palate, too, is surprising, if less pleasant, with a It’s lemony but quite simple. Not an especially grapes were grown, oak use has to be thick pithy texture and not a great deal of acidity, high-alcohol, high-pH feel that is oddly unwiney, complex wine, and age is reducing this to a gawky subtle. If, on the other hand, producers it’s ultimately the nutty finish that lets it down more liqueur. Maybe something that would work in mixture of acidity, alcohol, and fading lemony fruit. Domaine Gavoty Cuvée know their drinking public wants oak flavor, and says “over the hill” already. | 12.5 small doses with the right food, this is hard work as A pity. This was probably better a year ago. | 11 Clarendon Côtes de Provence 11.5 fine—use loads of new oak! But I did not AJ | Full gold now. Very rich and marrowy on the a drink, with low refreshment value. | 13.5 2010 (13.5% ABV) reward such wines. nose, with an ample, honeyed glow to it. Almost AJ | Full light butter gold. Honey, butter, and jonquil Château Sainte Marguerite We had three wines that were far too exotic. Lots of heavier floral notes mixed into the nose, with some pollen on a sunbeam or two: Cuvée Symphonie Blanc Côtes 13.5 AH | Gluey, heavy, and woody, this nose is not in young to assess. A 2014 wine tasted in honey: Indian balsam, lily. An exciting aromatic unapologetically full. Mellow, rich, languid, just a de Provence 2013 (13.5% ABV) its first flush of youth, but nor does age seem to December 2014 is hardly ready to sell, profile. On the palate, it is a livelier and fresher little bit torpid on the palate. I’m not suggesting have revealed much depth or interest. There is or to taste. In contrast, with one splendid wine than the aroma suggested it would be; there this kind of oaky handling isn’t possible here, AH | Fairly neutral, slightly gluey aromas, with a some plumpness on the palate but also a tired, exception, most wines from vintages before are developed yellow fruits, and spice notes, and but you need to have enough sinew and intrinsic faint note of peach. The palate is more exciting, its piney quality. This is a Christmas tree long past 2012 seemed past their best. So that offers a relatively limited drinking window for a buttery finish. A southern white of unapologetic aromatic complexity in the fruit first, and here principal beauty residing in a limpid, fluid texture Epiphany. | 13 many of these wines. wealth and amplitude—but it works. | 16 it’s all a bit touch and go. But everything in this that makes it effortless to drink. Fine balance and AJ | Bright white-gold. Rather confined scents, like Roussillon and Corsica were probably my CM | This is quite evolved, and I’m not sure wine is very grown-up, very secondary; there is no poise make up for the rather modest degree of damp reeds. Perhaps the oaking hasn’t worked out Clos Venturi Vin de Corse preferred regions, with some lovely wines how well it will last into next summer. It has the banana-y simplicity of fruit, which can sometimes flavor.| 15 well here in the long term. On the palate, too, this (Appellation Vin de Corse 14.5 coming from both. honeyed, slightly melony note synonymous with be the case. A knife-and-fork white. | 14.5 AJ | Pale white-gold. Faint note of reduction; some is a rather uncharming and heavy wine, though the Côntrolée) 2013 (13.5% ABV) aging. At the moment, it’s drinkable with pleasure CM | The color is a much deeper yellow than most, soft fruit and mealy oat flake below, but not a almondy core of flavor is true enough.| 11.5 but seems on the border of a collapse. It finishes and there’s not a lot showing on the nose. The charming aroma. Full-flavored and vinous on the Slightly dusty, with a fading lemon aroma. TOP WINES CM | AH | This nose is quite cheesy and rustic, but short and leaves little aftertaste. | 14 palate is a surprise, with a creamy almond-paste palate, with fair length of almondy fruit, but not Definitely past its best, with a dusty, fading there is an appealing freshness to it, as well as flavor and even a hint of residual sugar. It’s a very hugely articulate at this stage. | 12.5 character that has no allure. Maybe a minor some lovely apricot-pulp fruit. The palate shares Le Soula Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes Domaine du Clos des Fées ripe style—perhaps a little too ripe?—opulent CM | Oak is the first aroma that leaps from the starlet in the past, but not even propped up by that fruit quality but is just a shade tough and 2009 19 Herve Bizeul Côtes Catalanes 14 and toffeed. The buttery, toffeed side is a little glass, followed by lemon zest and perhaps a hint the makeup of oak. | 10 rubbery. There is good depth; perhaps it needs Mas Cristine Côtes du Roussillon 2013 18.5 2012 (14.5% ABV) overwhelming, even though there is acidity. But not of cream. The flavor is similarly oak-led, leaving a few months to relax. | 14 quite enough acidity. | 14 the wine element trailing in its wake. There’s Château de la Negly Brise 11.5 AJ | Very pale silver/green-gold. Fresh, sweet, Domaine Gauby Coume Gineste Vin de Pays des AH | This deep golden-coloured but still lively decent acidity to this, but the wine flavors are Marine 2014 (13% ABV) and becoming, though understated; a hint of Côtes Catalanes 2011 18.5 wine has a base scent of peach nectar, spiked Domaines Ott Clos Mireille overwhelmed. | 12.5 jasmine, a hint of lanolin. Bright and fresh, light, Domaine Gardiés Les Glaciaires Côtes du with resinous herbs and dried flowers. It’s Blanc de Blancs Côtes de 14 AH | Strikingly pungent nose, somewhere between almost mountain-light and mountain-fresh, complex, evocative, and really speaks of its Provence 2012 (12% ABV) Roc D’Anglade Vin de Pays du Fino Sherry and pickled figs. The palate is positively Roussillon 2013 18 12.5 with a surprising petiteness to it—was this region. The palate has balancing acidity but Gard 2012 (13.5% ABV) gentle by comparison, with a mild taste of fizzy made at altitude? Graceful wine of freshness Clos Canarelli Corse Figari (AOC) 2012 17.5 certainly seems fully mature, some woody notes AH | Quite oak-dominated on the nose, with notes sweets (Fizzers, Refreshers, Love Hearts, etc). This, and charm, though without much primary fruit Mas Champart Pays d’Oc (Terret/Grenache Gris) together with the dried fruit giving a liqueur wine of wood adhesive, but there is some attractive AH | Despite being just two years old, this wine I suspect, will prove a fleeting impression given the resonance. | 15 2013 17.5 feel (think Pineau or Floc). | 14 stone fruit lurking somewhere! The palate is has the feel of clinging on for life. The dominant wine’s youth, though there is still plenty to enjoy in CM | Fresh, young, appley aroma. Young, with AJ | The fullest gold in the tasting so far (and this balanced but really very neutral, and a nutty aroma is of nuts, and fruit is notable by its this fresh yet soft-textured mouthful of wine. The Clos Venturi Vin de Corse (Appellation Vin de a hint of something slightly curious (gherkin?). is served as wine 29): buttercup yellow. A rich character leaves the finish feeling tired. | 12 absence, with no particular savory/mineral notes sharpness of the nose and its incongruence with It’s fresh and creamy, with good fresh acidity Corse Côntrolée) 2007 17.5 and unctuous scent: ripe yellow fruits, cream, AJ | Pale to mid-white gold. Soft, restrained spice in its place. The palate, happily, offers a bit more the palate is a cause of concern, however. | 14 and a suggestion of tannin. Quite simple, but Domaine de Bébian Prieuré Saint Jean de Bébian a squeeze of passion fruit, a sliver of mango... and aerial lemony charm, but this is not a hugely vivacity than the nose, thanks to a cidery, vinegary AJ | Pale gold. Delicate orange and tangerine interesting. | 14.5 Languedoc 2013 17 On the palate, it is generous, open, exuberant, articulate aromatic profile. Lively and elegant on edge that is understated enough to blend in. There scents: an attractive young wine. Elegant, fresh, buxom, and affable, with lots of richer summer the palate, but a fundamentally simple wine of is good power and persistence here. It’s a shame soft, and lively, with a pounded white-almond core Château Leoube Blanc de Leoube Côtes de Château Leoube Blanc de fruits, roundness, and depth. There is some fresh and youthful virtue. It has a white-almond that there is not more aroma to complement the and lots of graceful fresh citrus and citrus blossom Leoube Côtes de Provence 14.5 Provence 2013 17 acidity, though less of the non-fruited mineral character but not a lot more than that. | 13.5 structure. | 13.5 for aromatic interest. No great concentration or 2013 (12.5% ABV) notes that some of the Roussillon peers have. CM | Lemon and pine aromas, but in a natural, AJ | Pale to mid-gold. Exuberant, but less classical depth, however. | 13.5 Tangy finish. Everything save subtle—but a good way. A hint of oak use, as well, but not than the best of its peers: apple and peach, tossed CM | At least this is brilliant, with no haze, but still AH | There’s an uncomfortable nutty tang of wine nonetheless. | 14.5 overwhelming. This is still admirably fresh, and together in a basket a little bit any-old-how. And very marked by the peardroppy aromas of cool- slight oxidation here, masking otherwise CM | This is golden in the glass, with a rich, savory attractively drinkable. The oak has contributed the palate is built along similar lines: worthy and temperature fermentation. There’s a creaminess appealing dried-fig and peach aromas. The palate aspect to the nose. Not quite as impressive on creaminess and texture, rather than overt woody honorable, but lacking precision and finesse. All of that may develop into an attractive texture, but at is very creamy-leesy without being vital (Chablis the palate, with a faintly soapy note creeping in. flavors. And there is a sense that this is a wine of that said, there is plenty of differentiated fruit notes present this is very young—too young to be here— this is not). Simple and underwhelming. | 12 Acidity is good enough, but this is just fading past its surroundings, with pleasing lemon flavor and in here, but there’s also a kind of biscuity maltiness and needs time to come together. This may be in AJ | A slightly fuller gold than its peers. Resinous its best (as the dark color suggested). It’s a pity, just a suggestion of pine. | 16 that I am not sure should really be there... | 11.5 bottle, but it’s really too young to assess. | 7 ▉

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