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French Mediterranean Whites Anything but Chablis

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French Mediterranean Whites Anything but Chablis This article from The World of Fine Wine may not be sold, altered in any way, or circulated without this statement. Every issue of The World of Fine Wine features coverage of the world’s finest wines in their historical and cultural context, along with news, reviews, tasting / savor / French Mediterranean Whites interviews, and comprehensive international auction results. For further information and to subscribe to The World of Fine Wine, please visit www.worldoffinewine.com or call +44 1795 414 681 SAVOR: FRENCH MEDITERRANEAN WHITES SAVOR: FRENCH MEDITERRANEAN WHITES ANYTHING BUT CHABLIS Andrew Jefford was joined by Alex Hunt MW and Charles Metcalfe in a tasting that divided opinion on matters of balance, ripeness, and vitality but which featured many charming wines from Corsica, Languedoc, Provence, and Roussillon t’s just over 340 miles (550km) amply constituted wines (like the Mediterranean locations are in fact top 11 were IGP rather than AOP; honors were shared more evenly. Note ANDREW JEFFORD'S TOP WINES from Menton, on the French–Italian slightly cooler than those figures would the two categories compete fairly and that the wines were regionally grouped Deusyls from La Pèira) appealed greatly border, to Cerbère, where France suggest, since the vast majority of squarely in this region. Southern within our blind tasting; it would be Domaine Gavoty Cuvée Clarendon to my palate but not to Hunt’s—though I Côtes de Provence 2011 17.5 meets Spain. That’s farther than the appellation whites are found at higher, France is still principally red-wine interesting to see if this result were Metcalfe’s broad palate seemed to distance between Chablis and Avignon. breezier altitudes than the urban country, and the extension of its duplicated with a random serving order. Domaine Gavoty Cuvée Clarendon accommodate both. Côtes de Provence 2013 17 The latter journey, though, involves weather stations cited, with often appellations to include white wines is Mas Champart Saint-Chinian 2013 17 If you are to enjoy the majority of 3.9 degrees of latitude; the former, a striking diurnal temperature often recent. Apart from one or two A future for all Domaine Gardiés Les Glaciaires these wines, it is indeed important to mere 1.2. Those are the figures that differences, without summer heat local specialties (like the Grenache Opinions about and scores for the Côtes du Roussillon 2013 17 remember that Chablis they are not. fundamentally explain why, in the spikes, and with much colder winters. family in Roussillon and Bourboulenc wines varied significantly, with Alex La Pèira en Damasèla Deusyls Pays D’Hérault Personally, Chablis I hope they never tasting of French Mediterranean white I suspect that very few, if any, of these in La Clape), the precise constitution Hunt’s top wines averaging a modest IGP 2012 17 become; this is a different place wines that follows, there were no stark wines were acid-adjusted. of individual blends remains a work 16.06, mine an equable 16.88, and Domaine de Bébian Prieuré Saint Jean de Bébian altogether. I don’t long for a pure Languedoc 2013 16.5 differences of balance and wealth of What about grape varieties? Here in progress. None is yet lapidary. Charles Metcalfe’s an enthusiastic 17.83. Vermentino from coastal Provence to Château Hermitage Saint-Martin Ikon Blanc flavor among the contending wines, the picture is one of huge complexity. Blends, though, would seem to have Views of individual wines often, too, Côtes de Provence 2013 16.5 exhibit “vitality” in the way that a wine despite the fact that they are produced Of the top 11 wines, all of which won our tasting day over varietal wines. showed wide disparities. Hunt criticized Domaine de la Rectorie L’Argile Collioure 2012 16.5 from northern France might; nor do in locations distant from one another. achieved an aggregate score of either Most of the whites from Provence the “neutrality” he perceived in the they have me reaching for my lemons. Essentially, these are gentle, languid, 16 or 15.5, no wine contained fewer and from Corsica are made from whites of Provence and the Languedoc’s What I love about the Vermentino- AVERAGE AND RANGE OF SCORES sometimes delicate and sometimes lush than two varieties (even the “varietal” Vermentino alone (sometimes known “tendency to sweet flabbiness”; based whites of Provence and Corsica white wines produced within a single, Grenache Blanc from Clos des Fées in France as Rolle), and these were “Chablis this is not,” he wrote about Average Range is precisely their gentleness, their warm-climate zone. The best of them contains a little Grenache Gris) and generally less liked than the blends one Provence white, lamenting its softness, their stealthiness, their beguile and please the drinker via their some (like the whites from Mas Jullien from Languedoc and Roussillon—with lack of “vitality.” He wrote of another Tasting 14.5 7–19 quiet aromatic charm, often hinting textures, their multilayered complexity, and Clos Bagatelle) contain six or more the exception of my own tasting sheet, Provence white that “it cries out for a AH 13.5 12–17.5 at wild flowers and aniseed, and and their aromatic intricacy. varieties. The most common varieties where the top wine and one of the four metaphorical squeeze of lemon.” their nourishing almondy richness. Warm? A comparison of the average in those first 11 wines are probably second-placed wines was a single Issues of ripeness and balance are, AJ 15 10.5–17.5 Alongside them, Languedoc’s whites growing-season temperatures provided Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, but varietal Vermentino (the Cuvée I think, the key point of contention for do indeed seem more baroque, more in the seventh edition of Johnson’s and the full list includes Grenache Gris, Clarendon from Domaine Gavoty) these wines, and the issue came to a CM 15 7–19 exuberant, and often more challenging Robinson’s World Atlas of Wine shows Carignan Blanc, Maccabeu, Clairette, in two different vintages. Charles head with the 2011 Coume Gineste from —they are wines that dare more and, Béziers with 66.7°F (19.3°C), and both Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Vermentino, Metcalfe’s top nine wines included two Domaine Gauby, an early-picked, 12.5% perhaps as a consequence, fail more, Perpignan and Bastia on Corsica with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Picpoul, Corsican Vermentino wines, but only blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache WHAT I LOVE ABOUT too, though the successes are notable. 67.6˚F (19.8˚C). These are similar figures Bourboulenc, Petit Manseng, Terret one Provence Vermentino made it into Blanc. This wine achieved Hunt’s top THE VERMENTINO- And Roussillon’s whites, over and to those for Napa, 66.8˚F (19.3˚C); Blanc, and Terret Gris. (Terret, by the Alex Hunt’s top eight. mark (and one of Charles Metcalfe’s beyond any disagreements about Stellenbosch, 67.5˚F (19.7˚C); and way, is now an obscure relic—Mas Did one region emerge from the second-highest scores), while I gave it BASED WHITES OF ripeness and balance, seem better Barossa, 67.6˚F (19.8˚C). Note, though, Champart’s is 110 years old—but Terret pack? Yes. For both Alex Hunt and my lowest mark of all. Hunt loved its PROVENCE AND anchored in the non-fruit flavors we call that the overall latitudes in France are Gris was once the most widely planted Charles Metcalfe, that region was pungency (which he described as lying CORSICA IS PRECISELY “mineral,” in allusions to stone and in much higher than their non-European grape in the Languedoc.) Roussillon: Half of Alex Hunt’s top eight somewhere between Fino Sherry and saline hints. Out of these things, indeed, equivalents, meaning that these Some of these varieties have been wines were from Roussillon, as were all Vin Jaune): “like a Margarita stripped of THEIR GENTLENESS, comes a natural vitality, still amply temperatures are achieved over longer sanctioned for use in appellations, and of Charles Metcalfe’s top four, despite fruit and alcohol.” Metcalfe twice noted THEIR SOFTNESS, apparent in those wines (like the Clos day lengths in summer. My own belief others not—hence the fact that the the fact that Roussillon fielded only its high acidity. For me, though, it was THEIR QUIET des Fées Grenache Vieilles Vignes and (as a Languedoc resident and former tasting included both IGP and AOP eight wines in total, compared to unripe, uneasy, and ungiving, a “barely the Gardiés Les Glaciaires) that have Adelaide resident) is that the French wines. It’s worth noting that five of the 12 from Languedoc. On my sheet, the ripe” wine with a bitter finish. More AROMATIC CHARM ripened fully. The future beckons for all. 194 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 48 | 2015 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 48 | 2015 | 195 tasting / savor / French Mediterranean Whites Alex Hunt MW AH | Andrew Jefford AJ | Charles Metcalfe CM SAVOR: FRENCH MEDITERRANEAN WHITES SAVOR: Domaine du Clos des Fées white chocolate, fresh pear, and barley sugar. white, which could easily fulfill the function of a creamy flesh and lemony acidity. It’s young and have to love sweet, heavy flavors to enjoy it. Grenache Blanc Vieilles Vignes 16 Lovely, ripe, demonstrative wine, with lots of red at table. Gloriously opulent, with complexity, still evolving, but already delicious, with candied ALEX HUNT MW’S VERDICT With the only actual fruit note being caramelized Côtes Catalanes 2013 (14% ABV) powerful flavors and enough acidity and spine stature, and presence. | 19 creaminess and bright, tangy freshness. A banana, you get the picture.
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