ELABORATION OF
A CONTEMPORARY « CRIANZA »
WITH MEDITERRANEAN GRAPE VARIETIES
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 I would like to be provocative at the heart of the World Bulk Wine Exhibition,
I suggest today to build : - a very limited volume of wine - in the style of a crianza (but not exactly) - with a great quality - and a rather high price
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 Thank you to Vicente SANCHEZ- MIGALON and Javier ESCOBAR de LA TORRE for suggesting me to lead a practical master class.
I’m a french enologist and engineer in a consulting activity since 1983. I work in mediterranean region : Languedoc, Rhône valley, Corsica, Spain, Italy, Morocco, Greece.
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 All that regions share a large diversity of grapes varieties for white and red wines
This diversity is historical : • they are particular areas, crossed by old trade exchanges. • after un long period of mass production, the viticulture became more and more qualitative since the 60s. • production rules had frequently changed for the last 50 years. • winegrowers, winemakers, enologists needed to learn cultivating, winemaking, ageing new grapes varieties. • they also needed to adapt culture, vinification and ageing of historical varieties to fulfill new markets requirements.
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 Focus on Terrasses du Larzac AOP
Let us study the small and particular area of Terrasses du Larzac in the north of Montpellier.
Production rules are complex but the varieties list is not so limited • for the whole domain
production Principal varieties Secondary varieties by ha Counoise, Lledoner Syrah Mourvèdre Grenache Carignan Cinsault peut, 35 hl/ha Morrastel, 5th year Terret N Only 45 hl/ha red wine > 75 % < 10 % then < 25 % together < 75 % < 75 % < 75 % < 75 %
> 20 % together
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 • for the "cuvée"
Syrah, Grenache N, Counoise, Lledoner peut, Cinsault Mourvèdre, Carignan Morrastel, Terret N
together > 75 % each < 70 % < 25 % < 10 % Carignan < 50 %
3 varieties 2 of which are principal
=> As you can see, these rules are sometimes difficult to respect
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 Why and how was elaborated these rules for the grapes ?
• to reduce the proportion of carignan (grape considered as basic, rustic and diabolic) • to maintain mediterranean ecology for varieties (which is today questioned by global warming) • to introduce aromatic varieties • to maintain biodiversity • to keep the style and the History of each AOP
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 Historical varieties are coming back
=> Cinsault, Carignan of course but also Counoise, Lledoner pelut, Morastel à jus blanc, Terret Noir, Picpoul noir, Muscardin, Camarèse, Brun Fourcat… This is a global return in grace for native or local grapes
We observe this trend all over the world : Giro in Mallorca Maglioco dolce in Puglia Graciano in Rioja Carcaghjiolu in Corsica Gamay Perugino in Ombria And so on…
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 What about a « crianza »
Classical in Spain Less qualitative than Reserva (3 years) Or Gran Reserva (5 years) Usually wine aged between 6 months and 2 years Mostly in barrel
In my experience, wines aged during a so long time are often very tired (or they are really exceptional) In my opinion, after one year, there is often a good balance between wood & fruit, complexity & freshness, soft tanins & volume in the mouth It’s my « contemporary crianza »
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 Let’s taste
Ingredients wines selected are pre-blending wines :
C = Carignan A = Syrah B = Grenache N Mourvèdre
Carignan : carbonic maceration traditional vinification traditional vinification longer Mourvèdre (with a medium extracting time extracting time (thick skins) track of morastel à jus blanc) : traditional
Carignan : 1 & 2 wines barrels 2 & 3 wines barrels Mourvèdre : new & one wine barrels in tank also new and 1 wine barrels
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 What is the target ? style volume
price
style : « contemporary crianza »
volume : about 50 hectoliters
price : 15 € ex-cellar (30-50 € for the final customer)
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 The tasting of the blends
To shorten the wine tasting, I suggest to taste 3 successives blends : D, E & F
I’ll comment them after tasting.
NB : There is no restriction with the availability of volume to make the target cuvée. The remaining volume will be blended in another cuvée of a larger size.
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 A
B
C
D
E
F
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 And the winner is…
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019 Thank you for your attention
Jean NATOLI - december, 02 2019