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JílínPOP 27.46 MILLION

Includes  Why Go? Chángbái Shān ...... 177 A flirty province, Jílín (吉林) teases with the ancient and the Yánjí ...... 180 modern, the artificial and the supernatural. Travellers tired Jí’ān ...... 181 of great walls and imperial facades can explore Japanese-­ influenced architecture on the trail of the puppet emperor Běidàhú Ski Resort .... 183 Puyi and the ruins of an ancient Korean kingdom. In fact, Chángchūn ...... 183 much of the far-eastern region comprises the little-known Korean Autonomous Prefecture, home to more than one million ethnic . Kimchi and cold noodles dominate the menu here and there’s an easy acceptance of outsiders. Best Places to Eat Although known for its motor cities and smokestack towns, Jílín is also a popular ski destination and boasts ¨¨Quánzhōu Bànfàn Guǎn ’s largest nature reserve. So go for the contrasts? No, (p180) go for the superlatives. Heaven Lake, a stunning, deep-blue ¨¨Sān Qiān Lǐ Cold Noodles volcanic crater lake within the country’s largest reserve, is (p181) one of China’s most mesmerising natural wonders. Yes, Jílín ¨¨Sānyú Zhúyuàn (p185) can be a little rough around the edges at times, but its re- wards are pure polished jewels.

Best Places to Sleep When to Go Chángchūn ¨¨Days Hotel Landscape °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm Resort (p179) 40/104 12/300 ¨¨Lánjǐng Spa Holiday Inn 30/86 (p179) 20/68 10/50 8/200 ¨¨Sōngyuàn Hotel (p184) 0/32 -10/14 4/100 -20/-4 -30/-22 -40/-40 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N

Jun–Sep Jul & Aug Nov–Mar Best months to Countryside Ski season at visit Chángbái around the Korean Běidàhú Ski Shān. Autonomous Resort. Prefecture at its most bucolic.

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HISTORY

Jílín 176