B.C.’S BEST FALL ROAD TRIPS As the call of the beach fades with the last days of summer, fall is the perfect time for a road trip in B.C. Here are five of the province’s best car-bound adventures

DARREN WHITE Fall colours along Highway 95, south- west of Golden, B.C., on the west side of . BY RYAN STUART

Hiking the Southwest Coast

to explore further, and so I do. TRIP Over the next few days I will #1 Lillooet wander north along the Sea to Sky Highway, turn northwest N onto the Duffey Lake Road and 1 99 then swing back into Vancou- JOFFRE LAKES Travel up the Sea PROVINCIAL PARK ver on the Trans High- 8 way. Within a few hours’ walk to Sky Corridor and back Pemberton STEIN VALLEY NLAKA’PAMUX of this grand loop of the south- HERITAGE PARK Lytton/Stein down the Fraser Canyon Canyon ern Coast Range I can bag a for the ultimate hiker’s Whistler summit, hug a giant tree, touch road trip a glacier, follow a canyon and BRITISH 1 GARIBALDI COLUMBIA run through an alpine meadow. PROVINCIAL Boston Bar Distracted driving takes on a PARK First up is the nearby Stawa- different meaning along the 99 Hells Gate mus Chief. The famous Sea to Sky Highway. After peo- dome’s sheer wall may look Squamish ple-watching my way through STAWAMUS CHIEF insurmountable from Squa- PROVINCIAL PARK Yale ’s downtown streets, Harrison 5 mish, but a natural staircase Stanley Park’s 50 shades of Lake leads up its backside to three green pulls my eyes from the Hope summits. It’s an entertaining road. Then it’s the water and Stanley Park Harrison 7 scramble up the occasional Hot Springs mountains from over the Lion’s 3 ladder to the top where acro- Gate Bridge. Before long, the VANCOUVER 9 phobes should stay back from highway tightropes between STRAIT OF 1 Chilliwack the edge. The views over the sea cliffs, turquoise waters and GEORGIA Abbotsford Squamish estuary and valley sprawling peaks as I head to- to the glacier cloaked Tanta- ward Squamish. U.S.A. 40 km lus Range and beyond explain It only gets worse. Glaciers why some locals make this flash, black bears wave and the moun- hike a weekly mission. tains don’t stop until Lillooet. Then it’s The highway’s “sky” aspect canyons, rivers and big trees all the way only becomes more pro- back to Vancouver. It’s a loop drive that nounced closer to the resort goes from sea to summit and back. But town of Whistler. Brandywine the roadside attractions have nothing on Meadows is the most inspiring what lies a short walk away. Right from destination in the range. The the highway, hiking trails reach deep into route climbs quickly through the candy bag and beyond to places that forest into an expansive alpine do far more than simply delight the eyes. basin that begs for rambling Strachan Mountain is a great example. and yodeling. And even I, who Perched over Vancouver, the trailhead prefers solitude to crowds, has is only 25 minutes from downtown. no trouble finding ample space From the Cypress Mountain ski area on the loop hike to Decker Tarn I stride purposefully along the Howe shoulder and the views of , on Blackcomb Mountain. Whisked to the Sound Crest Trail, passing backpack- guarded by green mountains, inspire me alpine on chairlifts, the tourists fall away laden overnighters. Soon the trail bursts higher. Eventually I reach the twin sum- with every step into this airy playground from the forest into an alpine meadow. mits and absorb the panorama: Vancou- of craggy summits and rugged glaciers. Here, I leave the well-trodden path for ver and the below, Van- Back on the Sea to Sky Highway head- a faint route, leading straight up. When couver Island to the west and the Coast ing north, it’s a winding plunge into the my quads start to burn, I look over my Range peaks all around. They beg for me Pemberton Valley. Then a pastoral ramble

28 • BCM EXPLORESQUAMISH.COM ROB STRUTHERS TRAVEL INFO

Distance: 570 kilometres Duration: Three to five days Resources: vancouvertrails.com; whistlerblackcomb. com; bcparks.ca; Don’t Waste Your Time In The BC Coast Mountains, by Craig and Kathy Copeland; 103 Hikes in Southwestern by Jack Bryceland

TRAVEL TIP

The new Sea to Sky Gondola in Squa- mish offers quick access to some of the most scenic trails in town—check out the airy suspension bridge—with amazing views over Howe Sound. A From Top: Cruising trail leads to the top of the lift, if you the Sea to Sky prefer to earn your panoramas. Highway; overlooking ; chilling out at Matier Glacier, Joffre Lakes. under the watchful eye of imposing Mount Currie before the steady grind up the Duf- fey Lake Road into the cradle of mountains. It could be 10 degrees colder at the road’s summit, near the trailhead to Joffre Lakes, the next must-do hike. The attraction here is not just the trio of ponds reflecting na- ture’s cathedral, but the blue glacial ice rushes toward the confluence with the across the valley. Or seek out giant trees clinging to a headwall at trail’s end. Fraser, is a gem. The river’s constant pres- in Cultus Lake Provincial Park, where a Continuing on the highway, the road ence prevents boredom. And a short way couple of trails lead to several massive itself is adventure enough as it narrows, in it passes pictographs—and more await . swoops and carves toward Lillooet on further along the trail. Back on Mount Strachan, I descend the . In the rainshadow of the From the Stein, the loop closes quickly: beside the ski area toward Hollyburn mountains this is dry and hot country, down the Fraser Canyon, past Hope and Mountain, a lump of a peak that’s still polar opposite to the lush coast. I reserve into the Fraser Valley. There are more worth the detour. And then it’s a beauti- the next hike, along the Stein Canyon, mountains to climb here. Bear Mountain ful old forest walk back to my car. In less for fall when this area has cooled down. near Harrison Lake might be the best, than four hours I’ve been awed and en- In moderate temperatures the trek, fol- with its expansive views across the Low- tertained by a morsel of the Coast Range. lowing the Stein River as it plunges and er Mainland and deep into Cascades Five more bites to come.

TOP: TOURISM WHISTLER / MIKE CRANE; INSET: HARRISON TOURISM; BOTTOM: ARRAN YATES BCM • 2 9 BY RYAN STUART Wildlife Viewing in the Rocky Mountain Trench rainforest, alpine summits to val- ley-bottom marshes. TRIP YOHO NATIONAL Lake Taken together this is one of PARK Louise BANFF #2 1 NATIONAL the most ecologically diverse and PARK Golden wildlife-rich regions in the prov-

1 ince. And in the fall, with birds C Banff O migrating and wildlife heading for L Embark on a car-safari through U KOOTENAY lower elevations, it becomes even M NATIONAL one of British Columbia’s most B PARK 93 more so. Highways and backroads I MOUNT A ASSINIBOINE Spillimacheen crisscross it all. Bottom line, the biodiverse eco-zones R PROVINCIAL I PARK V Rocky Mountain Trench is well E Standing on its banks in Invermere, it’s R suited to safari by car. Edgewater hard to believe the has Cranbrook, with an interna- nearly 2,000 kilometres to go before it Radium Hot Springs tional airport and the hub of the reaches the Pacific Ocean. Here, near its Invermere East Kootenays, makes an obvious Windermere headwaters in southeastern British Co- Windermere starting point. The rolling mix of lumbia, the river is in no rush. It slithers Lake forest and grassland around town out of Lake Windermere slow enough BRITISH harbour perfect winter habitat that stand-up paddleboarders can chug COLUMBIA Columbia for elk and deer, often spotted on Lake upstream with little effort. And just 31 PURCELL the country roads cutting through WILDERNESS Canal downstream, it begins to meander across CONSERVANCY Flats ranch land and farm fields. PROVINCIAL 95 PREMIERE the flat valley in long switchbacks, dead- PARK LAKE This area is also home to the en- 93 PROVINCIAL end channels and sidetrack marshes. PARK dangered American badger. Only

But while the river pokes along, the Kootenay TOP 400 remain in the wild in B.C. One OF THE life it supports hurries about its busi- Lake Ta Ta Creek WORLD of the better spots to see these ani- PROVINCIAL ness. On an easy canoe from Invermere Kimberley PARK mals is at Three Bars Ranch, a guest to nearby Radium, we see plenty. With- ranch on the St. Mary’s River near 95A Fort in a few kilometres we check off bald Steele Kimberley. White-tailed deer pol- Cranbrook eagle, osprey, mule deer, mergansers, 3A ka dot the ranch’s pasture nightly N 95 3 red-winged blackbirds and a half dozen 3 and moose, elk and black bear are 20 km different types of LBJs, or “little brown TRAVEL often seen near dawn and dusk. jobbies.” This is the catchall for the birds TIP The region’s microclimates tran- I can’t identify; usually, but not always sition quickly while we continue brown and very common—due to my on Highway 95A toward Kimberley. As lack of birding skill. When we pull the the road climbs to the ever-growing canoes over for lunch, we spot bear and mountains, the vegetation quickly chang- elk tracks in the mud. The work of bea- While they usually hang out on inacces- es from grass to lush forest at the Kimber- vers is everywhere. sible rock faces, two mineral licks right ley Nature Park. At 800 hectares on the Despite a major rail line and Highway off the Banff-Windermere Highway edge of its namesake town, it’s the largest 95 paralleling the river, this is wild coun- are a favourite for the area’s mountain municipal park in Canada. Its network of try. Biologists consider the 180 kilometres goats. It’s one of the best places to spot hiking and biking trails is home to black between Columbia Lake and Golden the furry white herbivores. bear, moose and a variety of smaller crit- as one of the longest wetlands in North ters and birds. America and vital to migrating birds. The peaks rise to more than 3,300 metres, From here, 95A heads back out of the Equally wild and wildlife-filled is the sucking huge snowfalls out of the sky and mountains, drying out again, before country to the south, east and west. The shadowing the valley below into near des- meeting up with the main highway for a valley is part of the Rocky Mountain ert. National, provincial and regional parks 200-kilometre run to Golden. Along the Trench, a hoed line between the Co- protect a surprising diversity of ecosys- way, backroads leap up narrow valleys lumbia and Rocky mountain ranges. tems, everything from grasslands to inland toward wild places like Top of the World

30 • BCM ROB STRUTHERS From Top: Boo the TRAVEL INFO grizzly bear; a big horn sheep; bird watching near Gold- en; an endangered American badger. Distance: 250 kilometres between Cranbrook and Golden, plus another 100 kilometres or more for detours Duration: Two days to a week Resources: tourismgolden.com; cranbrooktourism.ca; northernlightswildlife. com; kickinghorsere- sort.com

and Premier Lake provincial parks. Both Kicking Horse Mountain Re- have great sport fishing and Premier is an sort, near Golden. And at the important wintering range for elk, white- Northern Lights Wildlife Wolf tail and mule deer and bighorn sheep. Centre, just north of town, any- To the west, logging roads lead to the one can walk with wolves (for Purcell Wilderness Conservancy, a vast, a fee). wild and remote alpine wilderness. Wild- Their wild cousins aren’t far life, including grizzly bears, is abundant away, either. The nearby national parks of with sheep tracks. Like a magic portal, a in the park, but it’s an expedition just get- Yoho and Kootenay are home to several red rock canyon delivers us into a verdant ting there. wolf-packs and plenty of other animals in valley. We continue to climb toward the Things get easier further north. Around their vast and rarely trampled backcoun- Alberta border beneath glacial capped the towns of Radium and Golden, big- try. The parks’ wildlife is most commonly peaks before we finally hit the continental horn sheep and mule deer make roadside spotted from the highway, like we do after divide. Along the way we spot black bear, attractions, even right in town, and griz- finishing our canoe. white-tailed deer, mountain goats and zly bear and wolf sightings are almost a We hop in the car and head to Kootenay bighorn sheep, all without getting out of sure thing. Boo, the grizzly bear, lives in National Park. From Radium, the road the car. And I lose count of the LBJs within an eight-hectare enclosure at the base of grinds up through an arid valley, lined five minutes.

TOURISM GOLDEN X2; INSET: JOHN E MARRIOTT 2X BCM • 3 1 BY DESIREE MILLER

Okanagan Wine Country

and ice-wines, this family-operated winery TRIP offers a friendly, down to earth experience Rollingdale KELOWNA and is a great first stop in Kelowna. #3 Winery Inc. Hayman 33 E Rd. Driving south on Highway 97, make your K A way to Summerland. There are plenty of 97C L N AGA scenic vineyards to choose from in this AN Peachland K area, however, one unique spot beckons OKANAGAN O Home to hundreds of vineyards, MOUNTAIN you into an industrial complex, home to 97 PROVINCIAL B.C.’s Okanagan is Canada’s best PARK the relatively new TH Wines. Owner Ty- wine region. Savour these top picks ler Harlton takes a hands-on approach for the ultimate wine-lover’s road trip to wine making, and this is no figure of Summerland Naramata speech. From picking grapes, caring for Kettle Valley Okanagan vintners have a pin on the world Adams Ave. Tyler Winery Ltd. vines and using a traditional grape press, map as makers of fine wine. The region is Harlton Naramata Rd. the winemakers at TH Wines do it all by Wines also well known for incredible views, lus- hand. This means only producing two or Penticton cious orchards and idyllic lakes—all of three barrels at a time, and thus a very rus- which make it a popular road-trip desti- tic wine. Try the By Hand White 2013 or the BRITISH Skaha nation for wine enthusiasts and nature- Lake “getting better by the day” viognier pinot COLUMBIA lovers alike. Kaleden gris 2013. With some of the biggest names in the Okanagan Allendale Rd. Continuing on through the town of Pent- viticulture industry and well-defined tast- 3A Falls Blue Mountain icton, you’ll begin your journey into the ing routes from Kelowna to Osoyoos, one Vaseux Vineyard and Naramata Bench region where you could— Lake Cellars could easily wing-it through wine coun- 97 and should—spend all day. This meander- try and end up with a very satisfied pal- Orofino ing country road is home to some of the ate. However, if undiscovered spots and 3 Winery most renowned wineries in B.C., and tak- Keremeos Oliver intimate tastings are your flavour, take a ing nearly any side-street will unveil a new journey to seek out small-scale producers. vineyard. You’ll have to pick and choose, These boutique wineries allow you to meet Osoyoos but ensure you include Kettle Valley Win- the winemakers and get up-close and Lake ery. Driving onto the property, with the 3 personal with the wine for a truly special N Osoyoos garage door open and a basketball hoop in experience. While there are many of these 10 km the driveway, you may feel like you’ve tak- smaller venues tucked between the large en a wrong turn. Rest assured, this garage estates, and more starting up every year, has been the tasting room for Kettle Valley here are a few of our favourites. since they started making wine almost 30 Starting in Lakeview Heights, West years ago. As one of the first winemakers Kelowna, follow the signs toward the or- in the region, they have stayed true to their ganic, farm-gate winery of Rollingdale. roots, maintaining a home-style feel while Passing the owner’s family home along making world-class wine. Notable variet- the way, follow a path to an aluminum ies include blends such as Old Main Red quonset-hut wine cellar. A tasting counter, and single grape varietals such as pinot a sample of available wines and rows of noir, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and mal- wine-filled barrels await inside. It’s not un- bec. Their whites are solid too, including common to see the wine-maker and owner, their original chardonnay. Steve Dale, tasting directly from the bar- Next stop is Blue Mountain Winery. rels—this is, in fact, where they make the Getting back on Highway 97 South you’ll wine as well, in true garagiste style. Pours continue through the funky little town of are healthy, conversation is plentiful and Okanagan Falls and head up a winding it’s difficult to leave with just one bottle. arid road deep into the hills. Blue Moun- Known for their pinot noir, Alsatian whites tain Winery is modest only in size—with

32 • BCM ROB STRUTHERS TRAVEL TIP

Tasting rooms in small wineries have varying hours of operation and/or open by appointment, es- pecially in the off-season. Autumn brings the Fall Wine Festival, and many local events are happening in the region (October 1 to 11; thewinefestivals.com). Tip for drivers: all wineries supply spittoons so you won’t miss the fun. stunning views of vine- yards, mountains and sky for as far as you can see. One of the more coveted wines in B.C., Blue Mountain varietals continually sell TRAVEL INFO out early in the season. Maybe it’s because they have a limited output or perhaps be- cause the secluded location makes for an epic outing. More likely it’s because they make amazing wine. Check their operating Distance: hours ahead of time and note that tastings Kelowna to Cawston is are by appointment only, starting in mid- 113 kilometres via High- October. Try whatever you’re lucky enough way 97 and Highway 3 Duration: to find, as their stock is limited. If you see One hour and 45 minutes something from their reserve selection, on the main highways, buy it. wineries are often a five- Once you’ve descended from Blue to 15-minute drive off Mountain, Highway 97 becomes the famed the main routes. Plan to route known as the Golden Mile, where spend at least one or two nearly 25 wineries dot 21 kilometres of days in the area road. Many notable vineyards thrive here, Resources: including Osoyoos Larose, Black Hills and bcwine.ca; winebc.com Burrowing Owl; it’s an easy spot to stock up your supplies for the winter. While you could complete your journey at the end of the road in Osoyoos, take the extra 15 minutes along Highway 3 and head to Cawston for one last taste. The Similkameen Valley is growing a reputation for its local wines, including From Top: The the Orofino Winery. With a terrace and beautiful lake-side tasting room connected to the family vineyards of Blue home, this eco-friendly strawbale winery Mountain; the makes for the perfect break in a quiet part strawbale build- of B.C. While sipping wine and explor- ings of Orofino; ing the grounds, you’ll get a taste of the the views in B.C.’s owner’s homestead, with soccer balls, wine country bikes and a trampoline decorating the rival those found backyard as well as a harvest table and anywhere in the outdoor wooden oven. Try their award world. winning merlot-cabernet blend for a true flavour of this productive and scenic part of beautiful B.C.

BOTTOM: PROVINCE OF BRITISH COLUMBIA BCM • 3 3 BY DESIREE MILLER TRAVEL TIP Vancouver Many of the trees mentioned here are TRIP #4 Island’s found along old log- ging roads with no cellphone coverage, Ancient Trees so make sure some- one knows where B.C. is home to some of you are going and the largest, oldest and 19 Qualicum Beach S T R you have a full tank most impressive trees in Cameron A I Lake Parksville T 4 O F of gas, a spare tire the world, but many of MACMILLAN G Port PROVINCIAL E and a high-clearance Alberni PARK (Cathedral O them are not yet protected. Grove) R Nanaimo G vehicle. Franklin I Head off the beaten path Alberni River Rd. A for this adventurous road Inlet VANCOUVER Alternate car-friendly found on the southwest coast trip through Vancouver Bamfield Rd. ISLAND route of B.C. and the Pacific North- Island’s ancient forests Ladysmith Cowichan 1 west. Waterfalls, creeks, Mainline Caycuse Lake Carmanah/ Main wildflowers and hiking trails South Rd. Most people know about the Lake Cowichan make this a popular destina- Nitinat Mosy Maple Grove 18 Duncan magnificent trees of Cathedral Lake Rosander tion and an easy escape from Cheewhat Main Harris Creek Spruce Grove, and for good reason. It Giant the provincial capital into a Gordon Big River Rd. Lonely Pacific Marine Rd. ranks up there with Redwood Doug wild wonderland. CARMANAH San Juan Spruce 1 National Park as one of the WALBRAN Stay north on the Island PROVINCIAL most famous old growth forests PARK Highway, turn west on High- Avatar GOLDSTREAM in the world. However, there J Grove way 18 and take the Lake U A PROVINCIAL N PARK are plenty of other smaller D E Cowichan turnoff. Head F 14 Sooke but no less impressive ancient U C VICTORIA through town along South N A S T R groves scattered all over Van- 20 km A I Alternate Shore Road and drive rough- T car-friendly couver Island. Though some route ly 15 minutes to Honeymoon of the biggest and oldest trees Bay. Near the Honeymoon on the planet exist in our backyard, many Bay Ecological Reserve, you will find the are unprotected and could someday be Mossy Maple Grove, a place the Ancient logged, making it all the more important to Tree Alliance calls “Canada’s Mossiest plan a road trip, go the extra mile and see Rainforest,” and an enchanting wood- these giants in person. Awe-inspiring and land filled with old-growth big leaf ma- humbling, there are few experiences like ple. Here, you can walk through curtains it, and less than 10 percent of these classic of bright green moss and massive ferns giants remain. So grab a spare tire, head draping over enormous trees, with some off the beaten path and go hug a tree. They trunks measuring as wide as 2.5 metres need it. And so do we. in diameter. Unlike most old growth for- We’re not going to sugarcoat it—it’s a ests on the island, this one is comprised bumpy road ahead. You could easily stay of deciduous, broadleaf trees and is nick- on main highways and see some notable named Fangorn Forest after the famous forests. But if you have the means to do so woods in J.R.R Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings. and want a jaw dropping experience, take The trees here are currently unprotected, the backroads. Many routes are rough and set on a mix of private and Crown Land, a little harder to access, but the encounter and are in the traditional territory of the is that much more remarkable. Cowichan people, who are part of the Ideally, having a vehicle with good Hul’quami’num First Nations. ground-clearance will be the most com- outside of the city. Walking trails in this Head back toward Lake Cowichan and fortable, but don’t let that detail stop protected area lead into an ancient world take a right turn onto the slow and wind- you. Cars can make the trek, just go slow of 600-year-old Douglas fir and western ing Pacific Marine Road, also known as and be cautious. red cedar as well as numerous other spe- the Pacific Rim Circle Route, to Port Ren- Starting from Victoria, on the south end cies including western yew and hemlock, frew. This area has the greatest concen- of , head north on High- red alder, big leaf maple, black cotton- tration of record-sized trees in Canada. way 19 to Goldstream Provincial Park, just wood and arbutus—which is exclusively Along this drive, if time and means allow,

34 • BCM ROB STRUTHERS TJ WATT X6 TRAVEL INFO you’ll discover some of the largest trees tres at the base and an estimated 1,200 in Canada (see sidebar). Whether you ex- years old. Sadly, the area is endangered plore the logging roads or stay on course, and heavily threatened with logging. make your way to Avatar Grove. Just north is the famous Carmanah Val- Distance: Ancient Tree Thanks to committed individuals and ley, which received widespread media The Pacific Rim Circle Alliance the , this mag- coverage in the 1990s, when protesters Route is 255 kilome- Executive Director and nificent forest is now protected and is stepped in to save the forest from large- tres long, plus more co-founder Ken Wu the second-most popular grove in B.C. A scale logging. This valley is known as for detours started the Ancient small sign at the trailhead leads the way ground zero in the ancient forest move- Forest Alliance in 2010. to centuries-old cedar, fir and some of ment and is now protected. It’s the Duration: Their goal is to educate, the weirdest looking trees around. These grandest ancient forest in the country. Avatar Grove and the bring awareness and big guys feature huge burrows and mas- For the committed, the journey can trees along the Pacific implement provincial sive lumps including those on Canada’s continue through backroads to Port Al- Rim Circle Route can legislation to protect gnarliest cedar, which boasts with a berni before turning to Highways 4 and be viewed on a long and maintain the four-metre-long burrow. With the help 19 to the iconic Cathedral Grove in Mac- day trip from Victoria, endangered old growth of the alliance and donors, a boardwalk Millan Provincial Park. (A slightly longer but two or three days forests of B.C. The alli- has recently been built to allow better but more straightforward route would be will allow for more ance worked tirelessly accessibility and to ultimately broaden to double back through Lake Cowichan exploration. The trip to to protect the now awareness. on Highway 18, then head north through see Cathedral Grove or popular Avatar Grove, Not for the faint of heart, a twisting, Nanaimo via Highway 19.) Cathedral the Cheewhat Giant will which has become three-hour drive from Port Renfrew Grove is a coveted tourist hot spot. With require an additional a second Cathedral will lead you to Walbran valley, home to easy access right off the highway, it’s a day or two of travel Grove for B.C. For more Castle Grove, also known as Heaven on popular pit stop for locals and travellers information on the Earth. A utopia of majestic forestland, on their way to Port Alberni and Tofino. Resources: endangered forests, the this area offers natural swimming pools, While the park itself is protected, few are ancientforestalliance. alliance and how you the Seven Steps to Heaven waterfall, in- aware that Mount Horne right behind it org; pacificmarinecir- can help, visit ancient- teresting rock formations and is home to is under threat. It’s a natural extension of cleroute.com forestalliance.org various species of birds and wildlife. It’s Cathedral Grove and yet another grand also the most monumental growth of an- forest, but should it not receive recogni- cient cedar anywhere, including the leg- tion and protection could be lost to in- endary Castle Giant, measuring five me- dustry like so many forests before.

T H E G I A N T S

H A R R I S C R E E K S A N J U A N R E D C R E E K B I G L O N E LY T H E C H E E W H AT SPRUCE SPRUCE FIR DOUG GIANT Following the Pacific Rim Next up is the San Juan Spruce Going deeper into the Big Lonely Doug (66 metres The Cheewhat Giant (56 Circle Route Road from (62.5 metres high, 12 metres forest, as the road gets high, 12 metres in circum- metres high, 18.8 metres in Highway 18, around 35 in circumference), which is progressively rougher, ference) is the second-larg- circumference), a western kilometres from Lake Canada’s largest sitka spruce, you’ll find the Red Creek est Douglas fir in Canada, red cedar in Pacific Rim Cowichan, the Harris Creek based on volume. It can be Fir (73.8 metres high, 13.3 and was just discovered in a National Park Reserve, is Spruce (73.5 metres high found about five kilometres metres in circumference)— clear cut last year. Presum- the largest tree in Canada. and 12.6 metres in circum- up Len’s Creek Main Road (at the largest Douglas fir on ably, a sympathetic logger Located several hours north ference at the base) is the 9 Mile Junction off the Pacific the planet. This tree is let it be while cutting down from Lake Cowichan on most easily accessed giant Rim Circle Route Road) at a for- estimated to be about 750 all the other giants around challenging logging roads, on the route—a boardwalk est service campground. This to 1,000 years old. it. Although Big Lonely access is difficult but the will lead you right to it. is a semi-rough road to drive, Doug’s lifeline was spared, reward is tremendous. but it’s a great spot to picnic, exposure means it is under explore and even pitch a tent if threat from erosion and so inclined. strong winds.

BCM • 3 5 BY DAVID WEBB

TRIP The Great #5 Wild North Explore the spectacular road through one of the most scenic drives in the country. sights of B.C.’s secluded 4 Watson northern half Lake N.W.T. Winding between ice-crusted YUKON mountains, encased in ever- Cassiar green and broadleaf trees and Jade City HOT SPRINGS Vastness. At Prince George, the PROVINCIAL PARK flanked by the productive Bear gateway to British Columbia’s MUNCHO LAKE River—as well as the roadside north, an almost inconceivable Dease Lake PROVINCIAL PARK and receding (but still impres- Fort Telegraph vastness will open up before you. Creek Nelson sive) Bear Glacier—65-kilo- 37 NORTHERN Northern B.C. comprises 53 per- ROCKY MOUNTAINS metre-long Highway 37A is a cent of the province, yet is home PROVINCIAL PARK destination in itself. The town to only six percent of the popu- ALASKA Bell II BRITISH of Stewart marks the terminus, 37A COLUMBIA lation. It is an area larger than 97 picturesquely placed against BEAR GLACIER Spain, yet with only three major Stewart/ PROVINCIAL the Portland Canal, a tentacle PARK arteries on which to travel: the Hyder of ocean tracing the border be- Yellowhead (16), Stewart-Cassiar Fort St. John ALBERTA tween B.C. and Alaska. (37) and Alaska (97) highways. Stewart is the only access Prince Mackenzie Welcome to B.C.’s grandest road Rupert Dawson point to the odd-duck hamlet Smithers Creek trip. You’ll need at least a week. of Hyder, Alaska. With just 87

With a regional population 16 people, Hyder dubs itself “the approaching six digits, Prince friendliest ghost town in Alas- George is a bustling full-service Prince George ka.” Stewart tourists pop over to industry city. In short: if you’ve N photograph grizzlies from Fish 80 km forgotten it, buy or rent it here. Creek Wildlife Observation And this is last stopover where Platform and get Hyderized, a such an overarching statement ritual involving a shot-glass of will be made. As you head northwest on 150-proof grain alcohol. If you have a four- Highway 16, there is a palpable metamor- wheel-drive, the 37-kilometre haul-road phosis. Rambling RVs, 18-wheelers and to an epic viewpoint atop Salmon Glacier adventure-riding motorcyclists replace the beckons—this is the largest road-accessed day-trippers and commuters of the south. glacier in the world. Overnight in Stew- Distances are greater; nature consumes art; Hyder has too many bears and not humanity. Towns make oddball efforts to enough services to warrant more than an define themselves against the enormity— afternoon walkabout. you’ll pass Vanderhoof, the “Geographic Ramble back to the increasingly rustic Centre of B.C.,” and Houston, home to the Highway 37. Bell II, named for a helicopter, “World’s Largest Fly Fishing Rod.” is your next fuel-station, and, following a Smithers, 370 kilometres from Prince stretch of maintained gravel, the First Na- George, is a fine lunch stop—if time per- tions community of Iskut offers another mits, the Smithers Community Forest Trail service stop. At Dease Lake, make a left on network provides a pleasant leg-stretch. Telegraph Creek Road for a hardy, 108-ki- It’s also the last place to sip a quality cup the time you pass Cranberry Junction, lometre dirt route that skims past the Tal- of coffee for a long while. Try local roaster 75 kilometres further on, there will be as htan, Stikine and Tanzilla rivers on its way Bugwood Bean—or there is a Starbucks, if many black bears as road-trippers. to Telegraph Creek (population 250). All- you must. Some years ago, Meziadin Junction wheel-drive is your friend; a massive RV At Kitwanga, 115 kilometres from Smith- housed a gas station, but now it’s just is not. One can easily while away a couple ers, the North truly begins. Make a sharp a perpendicular intersection and a hut of days here in the traditional lands of the right at the Petro-Canada—the last gas sta- ransacked by grumpy bruins and winter Talhtan First Nations. Rent a cabin at Up tion for 237 kilometres—onto the Stewart- winds. Turn west here, toward Stewart, the Creek B&B (from $85; reservations Cassiar Highway, B.C.’s loneliest road. By and challenge yourself to keep eyes on the recommended). Peruse Gold Rush-era

36 • BCM ROB STRUTHERS buildings, view bears and sheep near the Grand Canyon of the Stikine, hire a flight- seeing tour from Telegraph Creek Airport and witness traditional lifestyles on the TRAVEL confluence of Telegraph Creek and the INFO . Lose yourself to the vastness to which you’ve now become accustomed. Head back to Highway 37 at a slow-and- easy pace. It’s a long one today. Buy a carving from the Bunce family in Jade City Distance: (population 35); producer of more than 2,900 kilometres (from Prince George) three-quarters of the world’s nephrite Duration: jade. Peek into the ghost town of Centrev- Seven to 10 days ille. Pose for a photo at the “Yukon: Larger Resources: Than Life” sign, then later at the Signpost tourismpg.com; Forest on Watson Lake—following a fuel- tourismsmithers.com; up and lunch at Junction 37 (Sally’s Café is districtofstewart.com; best), just a short skip past the 60th paral- telegraphcreek.com; lel. You’ll be back in B.C. before you know bcparks.ca; touris- it, cruising the as it leads mnorthernrockies.ca south. Safety note: bison roam the road in Weather: this area. They will not get out of your way, Temperate days and nor do they appreciate your presence. cool nights—expect Photograph these 900-kilogram brutes at changing conditions a distance or at your peril. throughout autumn: Your reward for today’s 10-hour drive? summer heat, frosty Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park, mornings, occasional home of an au natural hot springs to ease downpours your road-weariness. Shrouded by boreal spruce, 52-degree volcanically-heated wa- ter seeps from the Earth and cools by 10 degrees or so as it runs atop riverstones. Camp on-site ($26) or stay at Liard Hot Springs Lodge (rooms from $130; camp- sites from $20) and rejuvenate.

Pack your passport—you’ll TRAVEL need it for the worthy TIP side-trip into Hyder, Alaska.

Southward, Muncho Lake Provin- cial Park flaunts an emerald waterbody backed by the broken-glass peaks of the Rocky Mountains in their northernmost range. Further, through Northern Rocky Mountains Provincial Park, the highway gets downright treacherous, with loose gravel peppering hairpin turns and scen- ery that aims to distract. You’ll arrive in Fort Nelson after dark—book a room at the Fort Nelson Hotel ($99) or pull into Triple G Hideaway Campground & Fam- ily Restaurant (from $20). From Fort Nelson, it’s a 800-kilometre cruise through the Valley to From Top: The start Prince George. Fort St. John, northern of the Stewart- B.C.’s second-largest community, and Cassiar Highway; the Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway at Dawson Grand Canyon of the Creek (via short detour) dot the route. Stikine; Liard River Hot Springs. Quell your hunger back in Prince George with a steak dinner at North 54—routine- ly rated the best restaurant in the city. If your appetite for adventure remains unsa- tiated, however, there is 47 percent of the province yet to explore.

DAVID WEBB 3X; ABOVE MIDDLE: PAUL COLANGELO / DESTINATION BC BCM • 3 7