FASHION - MUSIC - STREET - ATTITUDE

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DESIGN

Davide J Wheller Art Director [email protected] James May PUBLISHING [email protected]

Commercial/Partnership Director FASHION

Andrew Cleminson Fashion Director [email protected] Ash Allibhai Head of Marketing [email protected]

Ruth Walker International Fashion Editor [email protected] Adrien Yakimov Roberts Revenue Director [email protected]

Chris Seth Fashion Editor [email protected] Roisin O Hare Strategy Director [email protected]

Rob Lawrence Stuff Editor [email protected] Isabel Collins DIGITAL [email protected]

Online Editor Fashion Assistant

Gemma Tadman Yasar Torunoglu [email protected] In-house Photographer Web Developer Sara Barrow Rob Harper [email protected]

Social Media Editor MUSIC

Rob Lee Music Editor [email protected] Emily Fortune ASBO TV [email protected]

UNKNOWN Andre Taylor Contributing Music Editor [email protected]

Jacket by Jacket Seneo Muamba ARTS & CULTURE EDITOR SPORTS EDITOR Nicole Wallce Humza Hussian INTERNATIONAL EDITORS [email protected]

FASHION - MUSIC - STREET - ATTITUDE THEM (EDTORIAL) New York WORDS

Adrian J Ramos Lithemba Velleman, Nailah Dossa, [email protected] Amy Eskenazi, Henry Blair, Abbie

Weight, William Bennett, Caitlin Lower, Beijing Julia Gessler & Kit Keane

Xi Joa IMAGES [email protected] Mike Lowe, Vanya Sacha, Kane Emmanuel Roberts Seoul Emmanuel Roberts, Jonathan Wood, Jay Rabanal, Anna Grodskaya, Danila Judy Lee Romankov, Hayley Louisa Brown, Isaac Roisin O’Hare Roisin

[email protected] Dann, Jordan Hardy and Edvin Kalic

Photography Sarajevo SPECIAL THANKS

Eleni Parousi Fashion Works International, Rooney’s KUDZ KIDA Direction/Styling FASHION - MUSIC - STREET - ATTITUDE [email protected] Boxing Gym & University of East London 08 ASBO MAGAZINE ISSUE_3

ISSUE 3/ CONTENTS Spring/Summer 2018 // Check out our insta @asbomagazine for exclusive content # FASHION.MUSIC.STREET.ATTITUDE

10 stuff. - Stussy, Brujas x 1971, Chuck Taylor, Brain Dead, Addidas, kenzo, Liam Hodges & Le Fix

14 Exposure - Zlata Alekhno - WORDS Henry Blair

16 Angie PHOTOGRAPHY Vanya Sacha STYLING Mariana Abella WORDS Michael Sumsion

20 Brutalism PHOTOGRAPHY Jonathan Wood WORDS Ash Allibhai

26 Censored - China opts to censor a burgeoning hip hop culture - WORDS Roisin O’Hare

30 Lucky Little Blighters PHOTOGRAPHY Jay Rabanal STYLING Ramario Chevoy

38 Dama Scout - Curious kids with off-to-the-circus theatricality - WORDS Kit Keane

40 Tyler Bate PHOTOGRAPHY Vanya Sacha CREATIVE DIRECTION Mike Lowe WORDS Humza Hussian

46 THEM PHOTOGRAPHY Kane Layland STYLING Roisin O’Hare

56 Hex - London’s ‘wavey-ist’ new rapper shares the importance of not giving a f*ck - WORDS Seneo mwamba

58 Jason Ebeyer - Making the Third - WORDS Julia Gessler

62 Sydney Wyatt - A collective for the DIY generation - PHOTOGRAPHY Emmanuel Roberts STYLING Roisin O’Hare

66 House of Romanov COLLECTION @ Nina Veresova, Lina Bouxdorf & Anastasiya Pavlovich PHOTOGRAPHY Anna Grodskaya & Danila Romankov

74 A E S T H E T I C - Vapourwave is a cocktail of musical theory, politics & blatant plagiarism - WORDS William Bennett

76 Alma WORDS Molly Davis

78 Super fly - Ugly is human. It touches the bad and the dirty side of people - PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Dann

84 Kida kudz - The Era of Afro-swank - PHOTOGRAPHY Emmanuel Roberts STYLING Roisin O’Hare

90 Street style PHOTOGRAPHY Sara Barrow

98 Rachel foxx - Bringing her husky electronic-soul to the UK scene - WORDS Emily Fortune

103 Shelly - Norwich university of the arts - PHOTOGRAPHY Jordan Hardy

110 Gabba kids - A youth subculture formulated to fight back against the repression - WORDS Abbie Weight

114 Taya WORDS Seneo mwamba

116 David Olshanetsky WORDS Amy Eskenazi

118 Michael Hone PHOTOGRAPHY Vanya sacha STYLIST Ash Allibhai

122 Ash Mammels WORDS Kit Keane

125 Confession PHOTOGRAPHY Edvin Kalic CREATIVE DIRECTION HIVE

ISSUE_3 Spring/Summer 2018 //Check out our insta @asbomagazine for exclusive content #FASHION.MUSIC.STREET.ATTITUDE 10 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 11

stuff. GET IT WHILE ITS HOT

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CHUCK TAYLOR ALL STAR CONVERSE £85 www.converse.com

BRUJAS X 1971 WWW.1971.NYC 12 ASBO MAGAZINE

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NIKE AIR MAX PLUS TN TIGER £144.99 www.nike.com

PROCTOR DROP SUADE CAP £35 www.proctorclothing.com LE FIXSPLATPATCHCREWNECK www.le-fix.com €134.40 ROKIT www.rokit.co.uk asbomagazine.com

13 14 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 15 EXPOSURE ZLATA ALEKHNO IN ASSOCIATION WITH IN ASSOCIATION

Coming to the UK 4 years ago with only £500 and no work experience and no experience of the fashion industry was literally an ALL OR NOTHING moment where I had to either make it or go back home. The past few years have been tough and with little funding I worked all the way through the course to support myself nancially. As a result my graduate collection has a special meaning to me as it is the nal outcome of my journey and experience.

The collection expresses the brand values as well as my heritage. The use of Russian language nods to the notion of being ‘ALL OR NOTHING’, which tranlates as ВСЁ ИЛИ НИЧЕГО.

The silhouette and gender-neutral designs were developed through the exploration of kimono, a traditional Japanese garment; and the notion of Eastern pattern cutting was explored and compared to the Western approach. This creates a space between the body and garment, allowing the wearer to move and interact freely with the garments.

Adopting a minimalist lifestyle and a vegan diet led to more concious and considered choices of the materials and design itself, as a result all the garments are 100% vegan with no leather, fur, wool or silk used. The predominant colour, black, is a timeless, functional colour that has the quality of being trendless in the fashion industry. The designs are then further adapted with bleaching techniques were patterns are organically created by applying bleach intuitively and spontaneously.

ALL OR NOTHING. WORDS HENRY BLAIR PHOTOGRAPHYANGIEVANYA SACHA ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER FATHIYA ABDALLA STYLIST

MARIANA ABELLA COLLECTION LYDIA BOLTON FORGET IMMOBILITY: A Swedish singer & songwriter is going forward, unfettered

18 EXPERIENCE” THEIR OWN DEPTHS OF FROM THE WHO WRITE ARTISTS TO THOSE “I GRAVITATE “I GRAVITATE TO THOSE ARTISTS WHO ASBO MAGAZINE WRITENFROM THENDEPTHS OF THEIR OWN EXPERIENCE” quiet afternoon. quiet afternoon. Hackney Wick,we satdown together ona up chairatCrea8 StudioinEast London’s Before shemakes herway over to themake- low-keysurprisingly anddemure figure. rapper andsongwriter Angie cuts a The twenty-two-year-old Swedish singer, release,‘Spun’, aheadydance-floorto paean the ‘Housewifeher mostand Spliffin’ recent year’s foundcan be seductivethe on jam oflast R’n’B country music,”says. she This wonky eclecticism Alt-J,in 60’srock trap. and “Everythingexcept andtasteher consumption are omnivorous, taking style.visual and her musical Both on influences Tommyrapper roleCash as pivotaland models Tyler,lynch-pin The CreatorEstonianthe and torch-songstylist Rey,Lana Del Future’s Odd citesshe late the hip-hopper LilPeep,US retro sway of the narrativesLatterly, intheirsongs. never obscuredthe lyrical cinematic pulland outsiders whoselarger-than-life personalities likes Love,Courtney and of Eminem perennial formativeHer were musicalinspirations the and meldingthemto beats. came toher experiences putting down paper on of raw, the virtues undilutedit when emotion in herhead,shetells me,shesoondiscovered While she’s always played aroundmelodies with formation ofherall-female rapoutfit,Bossa. a Swedishon Snapchatwith tothat led band the firstconsistedmusical dabblings tunes of sharing today Angie’, as‘Fucking theformer bartender’s Knownto herTwitter andInstagram acolytes novel, notjust apoptune. and youraised, havematerial enough for aGothic homophobia of the communityinwhich she was hyperactivitydeficit disorder rampant the and alcoholic mother,health issues, mental attention father,of animprisoned the influences mix an genders,”than putsshe as it. Throw into the alwaysbi-sexual,been “fallingfor rather people only deviation fromfluidity. this Shehasotherwise relationshipalluded to constitutesthe song in her sexual- theyear-long ratherthanlesbian gay recovery fromclaims toAngie thesplit. bepan- In many ways,representsit catharsisthe of her proper girlfriend. inspired by apainfulbreak-up withherfirst her show-stoppingbecome has signature, was for“Memories lyricalinspiration”,song,which the Kitchen’s ‘Gold clubnight. Dust’ well-receivedLondon’sgig at Hoxton And Bar wearof signs tearand from sweaty,prior a norm-core leisure wear, sheshows nopalpable Pink-hairedbut modestly attiredin utilitarian, She twiddlesherScandibrunchinthecafé. by-products oftheprocess, notthecrux. acknowledgesthat fame andattentionare She wantsto enjoys dowhatshe for she her voice lit with eagerinterest. crowdcool, the so crazy,”is says, Angie tobe appearatGlastonbury. “It would be of day.light dreamHer festival would slot with several collaboratorsthe thatwillsee releasealbum and a few tracks Swedishin completed,tolooking is Angie completean Belgium’sincluding Tomorrowland are summer festival atfestivals performances As for once plans, herforthcoming get stressed by [thesirens].” much calmerSweden,” in “I sheasserts, offendannoyand herabouttheUK.“It’s volume ofthepolicesirensthat as things notices forpenalty andthe publicspitting byconfined Sweden,in rules the citing grey.” Thatfeels said,she freer less and inherhomecountry:“It’sof cities so area heavy contrastto dourness the blossomsand magnoliatrees”“the cherry architecturecolour.and explains She that lovesthe capital, whichshe in for its off hertime is clearlythriving Angie she seesherself inthistradition. of their ownthe depths experience and whowrite fromcandour ofthoseartists Moreanything,than gravitatesshe to the looksand then for lyrical inspiration. phone her mobile quickly on musical ideas world”the in language –sherecords her view,mostthe is “English beautiful her nativetongue how,on – musing in Preferringto rather than English in sing others. ‘Spun’took forever.” takesongs “Some continuing, than longer formdemo atthemoment”,notes, she have written songs recordedand forty in AlunaGeorge.of PCMusicand sound “I with aproductionstyle thatinvokesthe of sex properties transcendent anddrugs WORDS asbomagazine.com MICHAELSUMSION

19 20 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 21

Vele-di-Scampia (Naples) BRUTALISM

Balfron Tower (London) 22220 ASBOASBO MAGAZINE MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 23

Apollo Pavapeterleen (Country Durham)

“Suspended between life and death, these buildings remind us of the power that architecture can possess upon its inception, but also of the forces that conspire against it once it is judged to have become old, out-of-shape, JONATHAN WOOD

obsolete or ugly."

Concrete monstrosity, the architecture we love to hate – that’s Stylistically, Brutalism probably came from the prominent how people used to describe brutalist architecture. There was Modernist architect Le Corbusier and his project for Unité PHOTOGRAPH probably not a single architectural style (and whether it is a style d’Habitation in 1952. The style was quite quickly embraced or not is yet to be discussed) that was demonized and hated as by British architects in particular Alison and Peter Smithson much as Brutalism, especially during the 70’s, the 80’s and even are believed to have coined the term “Brutalism”, and it in the 90’s as well. gradually became easily relatable to the capital itself. This was moderately strange, given that Modern architecture Suspended between life and death, these buildings remind us came to Britain quite late, and it was then soon sort of the power that architecture can possess upon its inception, of “replaced” by Brutalism. Although it was (probably but also of the forces that conspire against it once it is judged to unintentionally) inaugurated by Le Corbusier, Brutalism have become old, out-of-shape, obsolete or ugly.” cannot be fully assimilated with Modernism. Perhaps we could describe it as some kind of an alternation – Modern Others simply rely on the universal canons of beauty, and architecture with a livelier character, maybe. apparently, raw concrete was not exactly the prettiest sight back in the day. However, since the society continued progressing Some would even argue that Brutalism comes as a crossover and changing its perspective, a strange phenomenon struck us between Modernism and Postmodernism in architecture in the 2010s – Brutalism became popular. history.

So here we are in 2018, watching the style finally reaching its long overdue recognition, even being fetishized and replicated through collectible vinyl toys and similar consumerist products. So how did the ultimate villain become a hero all of a sudden? WORDS ASH ALLIBHAI The Barbican (London) 24 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 25

Cotton Garden Estate (London)

Vele-di-Scampia (Naples) Robin Hood Estate (London) 26 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 27 DISREGARDING THE YOUTH’S DESIRE FOR FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION, CHINA OPTS TO CENSOR A BURGEONING HIP HOP CULTURE CENSORED 28 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 29

Censorship in China has continuously drawn attention from progressive Western media. The country has already been reprimandable for its restrictive internet usage seeped in censorship.

A few years ago the “Great Firewall” of China was implemented in order Censorship is based on prohibiting products to block Facebook, Twitter, YouTube and various other social apps and that are a threat to security, yet Hip-Hop is websites. simply a reflection of its environment. West Coast and East Coast rap is different; and It appears as though China’s government is ultimately terrified of its even further from UK rap. In a similar manner, citizens developing true freedom of speech and creative expression. Chinese rappers, embedding their own Exemplifying this, China’s new law enforcement has brought the culture in their lyricism, composing their own government’s censorship legislation to the forefront of public criticism. brand of Hip-Hop unique to their politically fraught situation. I truly believe this is simply China’s State Administration of Press, Publication, Radio, Film and another unprecedented attack on Hip-Hop Television of the People’s Republic of China (SAPPRFT) has enforced a without regard to its positive aspects and law stating that TV programmes should not ‘feature actors with tattoos, understanding its origins. depict hip-hop culture, sub-cultures or decadent culture’. Although the ban was controversial and The law suggests that the country should not provide platforms for shocking to some, it appears that many people ‘whose heart and morality are not aligned with the party and Chinese rappers were not surprised. whose morality is not noble’. “preserving traditionalism without progression”

The new legislation ultimately disregards public opinion - once again. Rappers such as Bohan Phonex have outlined that “It isn’t a huge deal. It’s banned from Hip-hop culture has become increasingly popular in China, so it is national television but China is all mobile unsurprising that there has been an uproar regarding the new legislation. anyway, so I think hip-hop can thrive just as The censorship of hip-hop culture has already affected platforms for well without TV.” numerous artists, including the prominent rapper GAI from Hunan TV’s ‘Singer.’ Albeit the singer was popular, GAI was removed from China It is well-recognised within the culture that Hunan TV’s official YouTube Channel, with no official explanation given. Hip-Hop is generally globally opposed by authoritative bodies, and has been throughout In a recent article on Reuters, Li Yijie, a patriotic rapper with government- the era’s. backed band Tianfu Shibian, said that regulators weren’t blacklisting the genre as a whole, but that recent scandals meant “some institutions, However, with the youth in China clamouring firms, TV stations and the public had lost confidence in hip-hop.” for freedom of creative expression, I find it almost inevitable that the government will It’s evident that the media is working with the government in its receive backlash for its censorship, as the intentions to display the genre in all it’s negative conventions, without ban of Hip-Hop is solely a way of preserving providing a balanced argument to Chinese citizens. traditionalism without progression.

Hip-hop has only recently become a thriving genre in China and its Beginning as an underground culture, Hip eastern-lifespan is appearing to be cut short. Hop’s DIY nature has continuously enabled it to thrive in to the mainstream. For this reason, The Global times’ paper stated that Hip-Hop was a “tool for people to it’s almost impossible to assume that China’s vent their anger, misery, complaints” and therefore did not suit China new TV legislation will prohibit the culture and “cannot thrive” here. altogether.

The fear that Hip-hop culture may influence the youth to adopt negative and disruptive behavioral characteristics, has led the party to make the abrupt decision.

A recurring point comes to mind that always crops up when Hip-Hop is the subject matter: when will authority recognise that the genre is WORDS ROISIN O ‘HARE Images via Pigeons & Planes, Bandwagon, Hypebeast & Reuters Bandwagon, Images via Pigeons & Planes, simply a product of the environment in which it is being written? 30 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 31

LUCKY LITTLE BLIGHTERS PHOTOGRAPHY Jay Rabanal ART DIRECTION Mauren Kwaten STYLIST Ramario Chevoy JEWELLERY AXXIOM KTZ, Levis, Cow Vintag Nottingham, Blitz & Versace via Exposure PR 32 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 33 34 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 35 36 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 37

HAIR & MUA Vagabond A Londres ASSISTANT Daniel Davies MODELS Aaron Clarke, Flowerchild (Naomi Kaji) Francis Jack, NK-OK (Namali Kwaten) Ramario Chevoy, Ramone Clarke & Tiana Major9 38 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 39

DAMA SCOUT They are the curious kids with off-to-the-circus theatricality, banging pots into timeless bops in their imaginative expanse under a bed.

Introducing Dama Scout: ‘Dama,’ a word meaning woman we have more opportunity for contrast too, found “amongst the deers” by lead singer Eva Liu during having an element of the surreal or uncanny, a trip to the Natural History Museum; ‘Scout’ after Harper even gruesome, alongside a sugary melody is Lee’s tomboy protagonist from To Kill a Mockingbird. On exciting to us,” asserts Grant. the patchworked name, Liu supposes “Dama and Scout just seemed to sit nicely together”. It is this intention of So where does the magic happen? In, on, sitting sounds nicely together that characterizes their around, “and, for a small period of time last style. Dama Scout toys with the sound of the surreal, year, under [the bed],” confesses Rossi. piecing parts from a mutual love of Japanese music, punctuating simple melodies with, what bass guitarist The monster that emerged from under the Lucci Rossi calls, “shards of obscurity”. bed? September’s new single, “Sugar”, the most Alvvays-esque of their songs. You can There’s nothing deliberately different about Dama Scout; hear the muffled cosiness of duvets well- all of their cool is accidental. “We don’t reference anything tucked, the ferocious Neverland hum against intentionally, sonically or lyrically, but no doubt all this mundanity. They’re self-admittedly “erratic, listening ends up leaking back out in places,” admits Liu. and also bore easily”, qualities that cause What leaks is a motley musicality from each member’s them to cram until they create, and continue varying tastes and experiences. to experiment with their sound through their five singles. Each song is the distinct product Drummer Danny Grant began in the punk and hardcore of good friends fiddling with their well-known scenes, migrating “inadvertently” to the folk scene. Liu instruments and “egging on the ‘weird’ in brings her childhood fascination with Cantonese and each other,” adds Liu. And it’s all effortless. J-Pop music and its melodies, which were markedly different from the UK pop she grew up with. “Messing around with key changes, unusual chord voicings and tempo changes all come A few years ago, Rossi introduced the band to Shibuya- naturally to us,” divulges Rossi. kei, a genre which emerged as retail music in Tokyo’s trendy Shibuya district in the 1990s. Think Beach The intimacy of their bedroom as square one Boys convertible smoothness plus elevator jazz plus is shown in their complete comfort with the 90s arcade. Add this all together, and you’ll begin to unfamiliar, and their willingness to “never have conceptualize the fountain of 90s kid youthfulness that any real plans”, except that juxtapositions are Dama Scout tap into. compelling.

Also refreshing about Dama Scout is their visuals: what “We try to tap into something Grant calls the third dimension of “this strange little world we’re creating”. In their world of wonky home- brewed angst anthems, everything veers a bit towards unique about ourselves, the absurd, especially the music videos. Expect smashing cantaloupes with croquet mallets, 90s home video glamour, and awkward close-ups as the band allows their without it feeling forced.” music to make a mess all over them. “With the visuals WORDS KIT KEANE -Eva, lead singer 40 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 41

TYLER BATE CREATIVE DIRECTION MIKE LOWE PHOTOGRAPHY VANYA SACHA ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER SARA BARROW MUA STEPHANIE SILV LUI “I focus mainly on just trying to be different from everybody else, that way people will remember me better than if I’m just a regular guy in trunks.” 44 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 45

Tyler Bate is a WWE superstar. I love the indies but it’s also great to be able to have the WWE banner above my name too, and be able to perform in front of He is also the first-ever WWE millions on the WWE network. United Kingdom Champion, and The two days in Blackpool for the tournament itself had a master of performance. A one of the best atmospheres I’ve ever performed in front conversation offers an insight of. On my WWE debut, I had one arm raised with the WWE into the life and work of this United Kingdom Championship in one hand, and my other being raised by Triple H. I wouldn’t say I’m the type to get incredible man. starstruck, but that moment was surreal.”

The tournament was a high point in Bate’s unfurling career. However, it is performers like him that make a tournament like this possible in the first place. In recent years, the U.K.’s wrestling scene has rapidly grown due to the rise in great performers such as Bate, and his contemporaries, Pete Dunne and Trent Seven. So much, in fact, that during this time the WWE sold out London’s Wembley Arena with their NXT brand The WWE superstar Tyler Bate is standing in the ring for a for an historic WWE Network special. “I think it is because photoshoot. He’s almost irresistibly charismatic. There’s a unique everybody on the scene has really upped their game in the charm &swagger that the Dudley-born superstar, in past few years,” says Bate in admiration of his British confrères. this moment, is bringing before the lens. “The U.K. has been overlooked for a long time, which really motivates us to get our names out there more for people to see As we speak, our conversation makes a natural progression what we are all about. towards his involvement in the WWE. “It has been a great experience working for the WWE,” Bate tells me. “I have learned Just look at the talent that was in the 16-man United Kingdom many new things during my short time working there, and I hope Championship Tournament, and I know for a fact there are to continue learning and growing to become one of the greatest more out there.” WWE superstars ever.” He also shed light on what it’s like inside the WWE’s training facility, the Performance Centre: “I’ve got to While storylines in WWE are ultimately settled inside the ring, visit the Performance Centre in Orlando - maybe one of the most WWE is more than just in-ring performances. They look for advanced training complexes in the world, and is way more than someone who has charisma and an oratorical capability, a just a gym. It has seven rings of varying softness so you can train figure who can draw throngs of onlookers to bare witness to your aerial style offense, and harder mats for drills. a spectacle. “I focus mainly on just trying to be different from everybody else, that way people will remember me better than There’s also an arena where you can practise cutting promos if I’m just a regular guy in trunks,” Bate explains. “Trent and and your ring entrance. It’s there to create I have quite distinctive styles, and it’s having superstars, not just athletes, and there’s “MY MISSION IS TO that unique brand that gets the crowd to always an expert on hand to give you tips on engage with you. how to master the craft.” LET [PEOPLE] KNOW THAT YOU CAN We’re here to entertain, and the more you can One of those experts is “The Heartbreak Kid”, connect with the audience, the more you’ll get Shawn Michaels, who as both a WWE Hall of ACHIEVE ANYTHING them on their feet.” It’s that connection with Famer and decorated sports-entertainer is YOU SET YOUR MIND the audience that allows Bate to not enter the considered by many as the greatest WWE star ring only with the force of a phenomenon, but of all time. The significance of being able to TO WITH HARD WORK, also become an inspiration. “I like to consider learn from someone as eminent as Michaels DESPITE HOWEVER myself a role model for young men and women is not lost on Bate. “Shawn Michaels is a very in the U.K. down to earth and humble man. OLD YOU MAY BE OR WHATEVER YOUR My mission is to let them know that you can He had nothing but nice things to say about us achieve anything you set your mind to with Brits, which is a great honour coming from one BACKGROUND IS.” hard work, despite however old you may be or of the greatest ever,” Bate enthuses. “We have whatever your background is.” only had brief interactions, but I’d like to have the chance to sit with him for longer to really pick his brain about performing.” Before all And this even extends to his eating habits. “I’m one of a few of this, Bate’s journey began with an unexpected fascination. “It’s WWE U.K. stars to be a proud vegan, which surprises a few always funny answering that question because nobody expects it,” people,” the wrestler adds. “It’s a myth that you need to be a says Bate when asked who his greatest influence is. “My favourite heavy meat eater to be an athlete; we eat a lot of lentils, oats, wrestler growing up was and always has been Kane. I just liked nuts, and seeds. It’s a lifestyle, but I strongly believe in it. I’d how he could just beat anybody up.” love to inspire people to also try a vegan diet.”

“For a while, I tried to adopt Kane’s style as my own. But as I grew Bate’s journey thus far has been nothing short of remarkable. older, I realised that when you just be yourself, you resonate a lot But perhaps the most incredible thing of all is that his journey more with the audience. has only just begun, and one suspects that the bravura executant is on an upward trajectory. When I decided to be Tyler Bate and not Kane, I really began to grow as a performer and looked to build on my character.” After all, he is already immortalised in history.

It was this thinking that led to his career-defining moment at the WWE’s U.K. Tournament in January of 2017, where he was crowned the first-ever WWE United Kingdom Champion. On the experience, Bate tells me: “Since the WWE U.K. Championship Tournament, I have been able to live the best of both worlds in professional wrestling, on the independents and WWE. WORDS HUMZA HUSSIAN 46 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 47

Coat/Trousers Martin Kejser Trainers Nike Air Force / Amarillo Addidas - Stan Smiths

THEMPHOTOGRAPHY Kane Layland DIRECTION/STYLING Roisin O'Hare ASSISTANT Ashleigh Stunna MUA Anisha Williams MODELS Josh Ingate Eric Caldwell 48 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 49

Jacket ATIKA Trainers Bata Heritage Trousers Dickies Top (Erics) Okuh 50 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 51

Jumper Le Fix Trainers Nike Air Max Plus Tn Ultra 52 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 53

Tops Obey & Le Fix Jacket Martin Kejser Top NightAddict 54

Jacket UNKNOWN ASBO MAGAZINE 56 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 57 HEX

Doing things his own way and making sure His latest track which is the first of many releases of the year, was “$antana he stays wavy whilst doing so, HEX sat down $mooth” the atmospheric-trap infused record which featured alongside a VHS- with ASBO to have an honest conversation style music video. Talking about the track and it’s inspiration - according to the about his music and himself as an artist. man himself, who paused for a minute before proceeding with confidence, “That’s Having made music since he was just twelve just a flex, it’s the highest point of my not giving a fuck. Even if you look at the years old, HEX is part of the DIY generation, video, I just thought ‘I don’t care’. As my first release of the year I just wanted to as he learnt his craft by playing around and shock people and make them think what the fuck is going on?”. eventually getting good enough to produce his own music and since then has never As important as the music, another aspect to any artist’s output, let alone HEX, is looked back and has always been able to the visuals, he is able to match his visual so effortlessly to his sound. That tends make music 100% his own way. to come through collaborating with different directors and working out an accurate Not being one to get stuck and repetitive vision for what you are trying to create and getting that story across to the viewer,

London’s ‘wavey-ist’ new rapper shares the importance of not giving a f*ck and creating music for yourself.

within his sound,HEX has completely “It’s always a collaborative thing where we all throw ideas and kind of go crazy. transformed his sound into what he For me visual is so important with music and I didn’t used to think it was but now describes as atmospheric, spacey, mellow I understand how important it is because it all tells a story and for me music is vibe, which is a big contrast to his previous entertainment as well … you have to entertain your audience”. grime style. Since shifting his style, his influences include a broad array of artists Speaking honestly and matter of factly about artists that are unable to stay true to that keeps his sound fresh including Future, themselves and often come out of the the industry washed up and manufactured. Young Thug, Lil Uzi Vert, Yxng Bane and He explains how he has always gravitated towards artists that do their own thing IAMDDB. and tell their own truths. HEX is without a doubt one of those artists, who said straight up “I just do what I’m doing and if people like it then they like it. I always Making your own music is aways going to make the music I want to make and dress how I want to dress and do what I want”. be a process of trial and error. Sitting on the couch comfortably, he speaks on his As as visual artist we wanted to ask more about his sense of style, which he creative process, “It’s basically just been described as something that varies, “One day I can be wearing colourful and bright me experimenting. By me working in my and one day I can go out completely dressed in black”. He says laughing, “I don’t own studio, I’ve had time to play around with know if it’s a mood thing like if I’m pissed I just wear black. But I’d say that how I different things and making weird noises dressed describes who I am a person and my moods are very up and down and you and different pitches. I find that you have can see that in the music and in the way I dress”. to do to weird shit and I find myself making weird background noises and when you keep Finally, we wanted to know what’s coming up for HEX in the future and his thoughts doing it and you practice you then figure out on a potential project, “I’ve had so much music that has been building up that what is good and what’s not”. hasn’t been released. I must have like 40 songs and so I’ve got a whole project there which is coming soon and I’ve got some more singles coming out before Having already released a couple of eclectic then. You’ll here a lot more music. For me it’s about quality over quantity so even songs in the past year, there is also a though I only released a couple of tunes last year I would rather go through bare commonality, or a individuality between the tunes and then go through and minimize them make sure I get the best ones and music that HEX creates. That can be the then release those”. beauty of being a self-sufficient artist who can craft their own sound, for HEX himself HEX has come a long way from his early beginnings to where he is now but for him it’s about each one standing on its continues to be his weird and wavey self - It’s just about waiting to see what he own. “Each one is approached differently. I does next. don’t have a strategy for producing each one Hayley Louisa Brown a certain way.

The way I get excitement and the buzz to of artist Jason Ebeyer. realities the alternative through A nitid expedition make a good tune is if I hear something I

haven’t heard.”. WORDS SENEO MWAMBA PHOTOGRAPHY 58 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 59 JASON EBEYER. MAKING THE MAKING THE THIRD THIRD 60 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 61

A nitid expedition through the Lucent, virtual and hallucinatory realities of Australian 3D artist Jason Ebeyer.

Challenging perceptions and wrestlin with Things that seem like science fiction ASBO - Has living in Melbourne, Australia, ideas through religious imagery and often today might be totally possible by this influenced your work? sexualised themes. time next year. JASON - Parts certainly have. I’m involved He shapes a distinctive world that sees ASBO - Is there a design philosophy that with a monthly event called Beaút, its inspiration from traditional painters, underpins and powers your approach to which is essentially a massive party that including William-Adolphe Bouguereau art and design? celebrates art, fashion and individuality. and Caravaggio, as well as photographers Beaút was my first time ever displaying Steven Klein and David LaChappelle. JASON - I was studying graphic design my work in public. Since my first event Here, in the midst of projects, Ebeyer when I first began to create 3D artwork there sixteen months ago, I’ve displayed reflects on his enthralling work. for myself. I’ve completely gone against new work each month and become part all of the design philosophy and work of a family. I do love Melbourne but my ASBO - Would you describe yourself as practices I was taught during my time at partner and I are looking to move overseas both an artist and a visual designer? university. At the time, I felt so restricted - the main reason being, I feel Australia, in and regimented. terms of art and design, is always playing JASON - Yes and no. I mean, yeah, I do tell catch up with the rest of the world. people I’m a 3D artist and visual designer, It just didn’t work for me and made me but I tend to steer away from the “visual feel so miserable, almost like being Don’t get me wrong, there is incredible designer” aspect. creative was a chore. I still implement talent here and some really forward things like composition, colour theory thinking minds, but they don’t get the This is only because I don’t want my and structure in my work. But in terms of recognition they deserve because artwork to fall into the realm of content a strict philosophy - that is a hard no. everyone else likes to play it safe. creation or memes. ASBO - How would you say your work ASBO - Where, conceptually speaking, ASBO - Can you describe your creative relates to augmented reality? would you like to see your work go to process when starting a project? next? JASON - At the moment the work I’m JASON -So usually, if I’m making a producing would probably relate more to JASON - Within my work I always try to personal piece, I’ll have the idea in my virtual reality because the entire scene is explore ideas and themes that mean head. Sometimes I’ll sketch it out and virtual. something to me. Ever since I made my follow it, and other times I’ll just start first short film earlier this year, I’ve really building up the scene, letting it come I’ve started experimenting with wanted to get back to making a longer together naturally. I tend to try and keep augmented reality and compositing feature and exploring more of the themes my personal work as fluid as I can; I feel my characters into real scenes, but I’m I touched on during that piece. that too much planning can really shatter saving that for something later on this creativity. year or early next year.

ASBO - What’s the appeal of digital art? ASBO - What are you working on now?

JASON - I have an incredibly short JASON - I’ve just finished some work for attention span, so for me to be able to New York Fashion Week. Currently, I’m have an idea and create a full animation or wrapping up a six-image, six-animation still scene in a day or two is such a benefit project for a New York-based fashion to me. In saying that, though, I do have house, which has been a really cool some personal projects which I’ve spent project to be a part of. months working on. I also think that digital art is the way of the future and I’m really They really understood my work and what interested in how quickly the software - I do, and let me help bring their vision to and even hardware - advances. life. WORDS JULIA GESSLER SYDNEY WYATT PHOTOGRAPHER Emmanuel Roberts DIRECTION/STYLING Roisin O’Hare ASSISTANT Yasar Torunoglu 2ND ASSISTANTS Josh Ingate / Anesha Ramike MUA Anisha Williams

A collective for the DIY generation 64 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 65

Sydney Wyatt, the collective describing their approach as a Based in London, the experimental trap, rap group whose talents range ‘polymath’ are bringing their self-sufficient from producing and writing, to fashion and videography - are at the very style to a new age of UK music. cusp of what’s reviving the UK’s music scene - doing it yourself.

ASBO recently caught up with the group to learn more about Elliot It’s been quite fluid in its structure and Elliot The range of influences is important. The their beginnings, multimedia approach and the organised how we approach things. Rather than “this is dance music, the weird fashion, afrobeats, the mayhem of creating their music. With their genre-bending the business and this is what you’ll do for it,” African twang, some of us actually having African style based in trap to their futuristic eye for fashion, Sydney it’s more “I’m doing this thing, what you can parents rather than just jumping on a sound, Wyatt are making music for a DIY generation. you add to this thing, oh that’s a cool thing even comedy in the visuals and lyrics. you’re doing too.” How did Sydney Wyatt come together? What are your Peter Xan When people ask me what music we individual roles ŵithin the group? Peter Xan ‘Polymath’ is what I think defines make, I say “Basically you need to go back and what we’re trying to develop. That’s the social see all the music I’ve heard as a kid then put trap Peter Xan It started in 2015 in a FaceTime conversation experiment side. We’re trying to see if we can drums underneath it.” with my cousin Lekan. He has a huge interest in fashion and get people to work together, so at the end of I had just downloaded logic, so I felt I was.. on the road to.. working with Sydney Wyatt, you become a I think we’re just trying to show that there’s a becoming the next Kanye West, so we decided to combine multi disciplinary artist with lots of skills. place for the weird kids who don’t necessarily our interests and just try and find similar people who want wanna listen to drill. I got a lot of love for drill, to collaborate and work as a group of artists, which doesn’t How would you define your genre? but there’s other ways to experiment as a necessarily have boundaries, so that we can dip into other young kid, a young black boy raised in London. things. Nas Everyone who makes music in the group There’s other ways to experiment than drill and is very open minded to new ideas, new afroswing, you know. I was at uni in York with Nas and other artists who’ve been approaches and different cultures as well, involved like JD Cliffe. At a later point I met Elliot. We started throwing them all together to make something How did creating your first full project shooting music videos together then began collaborating new. together, ‘Transfer Seazon’ come about? on a bit of everything. Peter Xan Pretty much, it’s like a bit of Travis Peter Xan Elliot and I met up with Melvin on a Elliot introduced me to Melvin and we all began working Scott and The Bee Gees put together. music video shoot for my song ‘Xanglish’ with together which basically started the second phase of Ben Jamin, which Melvin styled. After that, Sydney Wyatt, when we were all living in London… What are you doing differently from other we met up at my first show in London, Melvin collectives in the industry? brought a lot of influencers and other fashion There’s no clearly defined roles, what we’re doing is people he was working with at the time. interdisciplinary. So, Elliot’s handled a lot of the management Elliot It all comes from a very original, organic and strategic planning of a lot of what we do, but he’s also place. People don’t look at us and say “they’re Then I just got in the studio with the people on edited the last two videos… Nas is a photographer who’s copying that” or “it sounds like that.” Instead, the mixtape. Before, I’d kind of only worked with recently recorded a few songs… Melvin has styled a lot of people say “it sounds like…” and then they’ll JD Cliffe and on my own, so it was my first time stuff, directed some of the videos, but is a big part of the just pause to think, because they can’t really really collaborating with a group of different music now… Myself, I produce, write my own music, help come up with a good comparison. There’s no artists in London. in the creative direction, do a lot of shoots. 0So the roles one doing quite the same thing, the influences aren’t really fixed, it’s a very fluid system so that everyone are too weird and varied. Peter Xan In a room full of chilling friends, can get involved wherever in the creative process. someone might just record something real quick As a collective, what is your creative and get some ideas down ... we decided to put Where did the name Sydney Wyatt come from? process like? some visuals to it and channel some Steven Spielberg type juices and show people what Peter Xan We chose Sydney Wyatt as the name, instead of Peter Xan Mayhem… There is no process. we’re really about. picking something like ‘Team Rocket,’ as we wanted to have There’s just end results that want to be something that was reminiscent of the name of a fashion attained and we destroy all barriers until we “I think we’re just Finally, what does 2018 hold for you guys? designer, like Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani… Sydney get there. That’s pretty much it. We see the Wyatt. It’s like a name you can embody, we want people to future and work towards it by focusing on the trying to show Peter Xan The ‘Complimentary Ballads’ tape by be able to say ‘today I feel like Sydney Wyatt.’ The name is present and organising people. me and Melvin is coming out soon, look out for also unisex as it’s for everyone, anyone can relate to it. that there’s a place it. You’ll definitely hear a Xanny tape by the end How is the UK trap scene influencing your of the year.More videos. More work. And a tour What led you to describe your collective as ‘a social work and do you think groups like yourself are in the summer. experiment’? helping to expand the scene? for the weird kids who

Melvin If you look at the group, everyone’s come from Peter Xan Yeah definitely. Especially in the UK, don’t necessarily different backgrounds and brings different things to the I think we’re a very good antidote or remedy to table. You wouldn’t think we’d all be working together a lot of violent drill music that’s taking over at looking in from the outside. the moment. wanna listen to drill” WORDS EMILY FORTUNE 66 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 67

HOUSE OF

ROMANOVBRITISH HIGHER SCHOOL OF ART & DESIGN IN MOSCOW. 68 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 69 70 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 71

PHOTOGRAPHY Anna Grodskaya & Danila Romankov STYLIST Alexandra Vakhrushina MUA Svetlana Shayda HAIR Julia Aksenova COLLECTIONS @ Nina Veresova, Lina Bouxdorf & Anastasiya Pavlovich MODELS Maria Belova & Antonina Odnodvoretc @ Aquarelle

74 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 75 A E S T H E T I C ------A combination of 80’s elevator music, jazz instrumentals and commercial jingles - vapourwave is a cocktail of musical theory, politics and blatant plagiarism. ------A combination of 80’s elevator music, slowed-down funk and jazz The sub-genre also doesn’t have any real vocals/instrumentals as well as the use of commercial jingles - political message, concentrating more on the vapourwave is a cocktail of musical theory, politics and blatant musical style and techniques used or heard in plagiarism. vapourwave with heavy trap influences; much like Blank Banshees “0” album. Sadly not many Vapourwave as a musical genre is one that is either known about seem to know about the origins of the style and thoroughly or completely unheard of, depending on who you ask. so many fans reject chillwave as a sub-genre of At its base the genre of music does not fall into any true category, vapourwave. This does not mean the style should it’s wide range of influences constantly evolving its experimental and not be given any credit, there are many tracks unstable state. There is one constant theme however, the satirical and albums that deserve merit considering mocking of capitalism. Just like with every other musical style, that vapourwave is essentially plagiarism and there are many artists and producers that fall under the name of editing, many chillwave artists use synthesisers vapourwave creators, each with their own distinct and unique sound. to organically and originally create their sounds It’s abstract and experimental nature unfortunately caused it to fade and beats. One notably experimental artist out of the internet’s view for around two years however over the is LORN. He uses his past traumas to fuel past year or so the genre seems to have exploded back onto the his dangerously angry but somehow relaxed electronic music scene - in many new waves. sound and concentrates primarily on eerie and unnerving vocal samples and the manipulating The rebirth of the scene began with a single song: MACINTOSH of orchestral string instruments to create a PLUS 420 . Originating from Macintosh Plus’ debut album under blend of EDM and rock-reminiscent of no other their current alias, Floral Shoppe, the song began its life as, to be artist out there. blunt, a meme. The track’s slow, eerie recreation of Diana Ross’, “It’s your move” played on the misheard lyric of “It’s all in your head”, Simpsonwave is a genre that is almost a perfectly encapsulating the genre’s political stance on capitalism combination of chillwave and simple but and commercialisation. Used as a backing track to funny videos nostalgic graphical elements. Personally I and memes, the song was mocked for its futuristic and droning appreciate Simpsonwave as an art form but tones, however before long people that would have never done so don’t believe it should be classed as a genre of before, began searching for its origin, beginning to appreciate it as music and more of an editorial style. Through an art form and not simply a passing joke. Before long a new breed 2017 Simpsonwave inadvertently spread across of vapourwave artists began creating their own tracks and in some the internet, primarily YouTube in the form cases even albums. To this day if you search the word “vapourwave” of clips from the Simpsons that, in the out of on Soundcloud, YouTube or Bandcamp thousands, if not millions context state that they’re used, are sad and of search results will be presented to you, displaying the size the nostalgic edited over slow, depressing and community has now become. vapour/chillwave style music.

One notable artist who helped in the resurgence of vapourwave has A common edit that was seen at the beginning been Blank Banshee. Mixing the obscure genre of vapourwave with was the use of XXXTENTACION’s Jocelyn Flores, trap-style beats Blank Banshee created borderline EDM style tracks a new age emo ballad, used as a backing track to like “Teen Pregnancy” and “B:/ Start Up” whilst keeping the subtle scenes of Bart Simpson in saddening situations satirical musical comments on capitalism to create a new style in the with a girl. From this, loops of saddened genre. Before long the creator was held up to the level of founders characters from the series were pasted over of vapourwave such as MACINTOSH PLUS and the ever obscure slow and eerie tracks from all kinds of genres Vektroid or Rain Temple. The trap and less experimental style brought although primarily over the chillwave influenced in many new listeners to the genre, giving them an easy entry point to vapourwave songs. The songs will often relate the sprawling web that is vapourwave. to the sampled scenes in tone, sound of lyrical content, a key part of the genre being constant The word vapourwave is a play on words: combing the word existential sadness. Some have even taking to vapourware (meaning a product that is promoted to the public but creating narrative music videos by chopping never released) and the Marxist phrase of Waves of vapour (meaning and screwing scenes from the series together the repeated and meaningless resurgence of certain types of to follow along the story of a song or track, a thought or political standing). This word is a perfect fit for the genre very interesting and popular style. at this point in its life. The constant evolution and devolution of the styles and themes in the music we see throughout the vapourwave Although Vapourwave and its sub-genres are community displays a constant procrastination that is rarely seen in music styles the graphical elements used any other genre. on the album covers and music videos is admittedly what gained the genre it’s fame. A nostalgia is always desired when creating vapourwave, one that not Consisting of a pastel pallet, Greek marble many have any reason to but do actually feel when listening to any style of vapourwave. This has caused several new genres to be born, the two largest being “chillwave” and “Simpsonwave”, each with their defining qualities and notable themes. Chillwave is more of an EDM or electronic style genre however, often with a Lo-Fi production style

Images Via Saint-vsh, c1nc1n4tus and Aphrodite98wave and Aphrodite98wave c1nc1n4tus Saint-vsh, Images Via that gives it a massively relaxing tone. WORDS WILLIAM BENNETT 76 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 77

At 22 years old, Alma has already made a name for herself in Now Phases, the Americans have been saying Finland after appearing on Finnish Idol. Following her UK Top they’re supportive now. So it’s been very quick. 20 single “Chasing Highs”, Alma has collaborated with the likes It’s been a year since I released my first track. of Charli XCX, Sub Focus, Felix Jaehn, and Martin Solveig. Like I need to always go home and close my eyes and think what the f*ck is going on.” It would be easy to throw in a cliche at this point and say she was destined for fame, but destiny never even got a word in; Alma is often championed as the Finnish Alma has worked for her place in the charts. international hope for music, being the first break- out star in years from the country. Reflecting back Her image remains bold, with her crossover commercial on her journey, she suggests that it is the right appeal. I met her whilst she was hanging out with her twin time. sister, Anna, in a bustling London restaurant the morning after they flew in. It’s a bizarre experience to find a pop star that is “I think [when I was on Idols] people weren’t ready, so down to earth. There is a stark contrast between her love and I wasn’t ready when I was sixteen. I needed of Pina Coladas and Skins (but according to Alma, only “when to grow. I needed to party and just be a normal it’s Emily and Naomi. They’re so cute.”) and her account of her teenager. So actually it’s very good that nothing experience of UK music festivals. came then. What I’m doing now, I wouldn’t have been able to do then. I would just lose my mind. “For me, like, I’m always very scared there’s not gonna be So, I think people weren’t ready for this girl, like people but it’s been f*cking crazy in the UK, at like every what is she doing, but now they are and now they festival like Reading and Leeds. [At] Bestival we had a show really, really, really like me. The pressure is on me. like 2:30pm and I was like there’s not gonna be anyone and it Everyone’s just like ‘Alma’s going to do it, Alma’s was full, it was so many people. People were screaming the going to do it.’ But I love it, I love it and I feel it’s words out and I was like this time has been crazy. UK wise like very great that I know the Finnish people are very it’s been crazy…I did one like headline show here in the UK proud of me.” at XOYO and it was sold out and you know I just love how UK people are going crazy at the moment.” It’s no wonder that Alma has found commercial success outside of her home country. Although For Alma though, the whole experience wouldn’t be worth her friends, family, and loves inspire the content

A long way from home, ALMA speaks on industry standards, breaking the rules and being wholly yourself.

having without her aforementioned twin sister. “I wouldn’t do of her songs, her inspiration to write comes from it without her cause she’s like always there for me and also my an artist deeply embedded in British musical back-up singer so... it’s very good. And also we’re having fun history. on the stage. Even if the crowd was shit it would be like great.” “Amy Winehouse [inspires me] of course, of Having initially gained recognition in her home on “Finnish Idol” course, even though it’s very like pop and in 2013, Alma quickly established herself in the pop scene later powerful, and maybe a bit too powerful for me, in 2016 with debut single, Karma. Since then she has gone from I still love how like how she’s fucking with the strength to strength, reaching new heights with every release. industry, like I love that, and how she can do The change from TV show to awards shows has certainly not mainstream pop music power ballad but then be gone unnoticed. so cool. I think it’s very interesting. Also my friend Charli XCX, how she writes music is just like.. [Referring to Finnish Idol] “I was sixteen when I did that. It’s cause she’s just like a legend. Like she’s done kinda like two different stories, like I did that and then after that so many big hits and it’s great to work with her I didn’t go anywhere and I was just hanging and doing nothing, and see how she’s working cause I’m new and I like I was backup singing vocals for a female rapper in Finland haven’t written for that many years. She’s doing but that was basically it, and then this journey came. It was nice these hook melodies and I’m like nice.She hasn’t back then. I like taught me, it’s just watching her helps me, I get something you know. I understand.” didn’t get into any school and was like ‘f*ck it, I’m just going to do this for now and then let’s see.’ It’s crazy ‘cause I think Like her fierce hair style, fashion sense, and the Idols people would really like to be like… ‘from Idols there’s cyberpunk image, Alma also wields complete Alma’ but … I think I needed to do the work by myself and get control over her music. She is the one that selects the people interested. which tracks are released, and when quizzed on whether there were external influences that made ‘Cause of course UK or Germany or America, they don’t know her change her sound from Chasing Highs to Finnish Idols. I didn’t get signed in Finland. I got signed in Phases she is quick Germany. I haven’t got any other story. It was weird because when we first released ‘Karma’ it was weird that like we didn’t expect anything, we weren’t promoting it in anyway just, ‘oh lets see how it goes.’

Elton John was supporting ‘Karma’. Really, like, that was weird and it got up and all the industry people started talking. Then dye my hair came and BBC Radio was involved and Chasing ALMA Highs became like Germany top three. WORDS MOLLY DAVIS SUPER FLY PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Dann ART DIRECTION Joseph Stephens

“Ugly is human. It touches the bad and the dirty side of people” or while Insta-stars are using it for likes, designers are using it to sell. 80 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 81 82 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 83

Miuccia Prada has been using ugly to sell for years. She became somewhat of a pioneer for ‘ugly chic’ in the mid-90s Acting as the antidote to when she literally named the SS96 Prada show, that featured stiff and un-flattering silhouettes in dull shades of green and refinement with family beige, ‘Banal Eccentricity’. However, as of late, ugly fashion has been a phenomenon on a much larger scale. Fashion houses that have always been considered to be high luxe, photography backdrops have challenged this preconception. and ugly sneakers, and We can all call an ‘ugly’ pair of trainers when we see them. Giant, usually block coloured, clumpy things like the Nike new-found uniqueness; Air Monarchs your grandparents might wear on holiday. From Balenciaga’s Triple S sneaker, to the Gucci Apollo, ugly anti-fashion shows us that trainers have become a designer staple in the last two years. Even Crocs, the shoe that everyone loves to hate, have made ugly talks. an appearance on runways thanks to Christopher Kane. Who would have thought Balenciaga could drop a textbook, fuck- ugly sneaker, for them to become the most hyped footwear of 2017. Rihanna’s Fenty x Puma punk-style, creepers have been a huge success, while the Vetements x Reebok InstaPump Fury hybrid sold out in a matter of hours despite their garish appearance. The same, however, cannot be said for the Vetements x Manolo Blahnik heeled, satin boots. We’ve gone from crisp white Stan Smiths being fashion’s only accepted sneaker in a world of tiny heels, to geriatric trainers and punk rock era shoes making appearances on high-end runways.

And it’s not just ‘ugly trainers’ that are making a comeback. The influence of anti-fashion is even translating to the models Remember when matching tracksuits where considered on the catwalk. Shortly before his SS18 Gucci show, creative fashion blasphemy? The world of fashion was dominated director, Alessandro Michele, revealed that he likes his models by the superior class and so those who could not afford to to be ‘as diverse and unpredictable as possible.’ The rise of the keep up were considered unfashionable. And the optimal ‘unusual’ looking model may simply just be a result of designers affordable gear for the lower classes was always sportswear; finally creating a more eye-catching and culturally representative which has made a major jump in to the high fashion realm show. It’s becoming more common in mainstream media also. this past year. Sportswear brands like Kappa went back to their 80s roots last year, with football Model Jazzelle Zanaughtti, known as @ apparel and tracksuits being the uglyworldwide on Instagram, has risen main focus selling out storewide, “EVERYTHING IS to fame for her quirky, unconventional, determining how ugly fashion has androgynous style and the idgaf attitude become so sought after. MANIPULATED TO that comes with it. She’s walked for sportswear brand Gypsy Sport at New Why is ugly-fashion such a success? APPEAR PERFECT York Fashion Week, been shot by Nick Is it a marketing ploy or is it just that Knight, and has over 100k followers we’re bored? It wasn’t so long ago ONLINE WHEN on Insta so it’s safe to say her Slim that the appearance of a pair of shoes Shady buzz-cut, shaved eyebrows, and designed to be worn for comfort and REALITY CAN BE FAR smudged makeup haven’t been an issue, athleticism on a catwalk would have but rather a look to be celebrated. caused outrage among the masses. FROM IT. UGLINESS Fashion to most, is synonymous with Alongside its ability to sell, perhaps an refinement. It’s about crisp, high CHALLENGES THIS element of the anti-fashion trend is a heels and couture dresses, and for backlash against the artificial, dystopian a while the industry had conformed FASCINATION world we have found ourselves living to this minimalist, beauty stereotype in. Everything is manipulated to appear that garners little controversy. WITH SYNTHETIC perfect online when reality can be far from it. Ugliness challenges this However, in a time when Instagram LIFESTYLES.” fascination with synthetic lifestyles. likes are almost as important as Going back to Miuccia Prada, in a 2013 actual sales, ugly talks. A look can be shared around the interview with the Telegraph she described ugly as holding much world in a matter of seconds via the internet and so trends are more potential than beauty. “Ugly is human. It touches the bad born and die at a much faster rate than ever before. Things and the dirty side of people,” she went on, likening it to a more can become mainstream almost instantly, so individuals are accurate representation of humanity. forever striving for the next thing that can make them unique. The aim of the game is to stand out. Fashion week street Ugly fashion is a combination we never knew we needed until style is the perfect example of this. You often come across we had it. Whatever the reason for this unlikely friendship, street style photos where the subject’s outfit is eccentric and it’s a brilliant business strategy, it’s damn comfortable, and often completely over the top - but that’s exactly why they’ve most importantly it’s bought with it a greater representation been photographed. of everyday life and a much-needed shift in the politics of the industry. Whether you like the look or not, they’re the ones that get noticed and they’re the ones whose ‘ugly’ style will be talked about and shared across social media. Perhaps this is why anti-fashion is such a success right now. High-end fashion labels have caught on, and while Insta-stars are using it for likes, designers are using it to sell. Balenciaga has topped the list of ugly fashion with the fashion houses’ latest menswear campaign, that they dropped on Instagram in December, was as banal as banal gets. Yet the social media buzz it created was through the roof. Many loved the old-school nostalgia that came with the boxy-cuts and wide legged denim shot against extremely dated, 80s style, family photography backdrops. Others felt the brand had strayed too far from its high-fashion roots. But all publicity is good publicity, right? WORDS CAITLIN LOWER 84 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 85 KIDAKUDZ THE ERA OF AFRO-SWANK

With Afrobeats becoming highly infectious within the UK’s music scene, Kida Kudz is here to make Afro-swank known. After the past couple of years of tremendous growth, Afrobeats - originating out of West Africa, from the regions of Nigeria and Ghana, is continuing to push the UK’s eclectic talent to the surface. In only a short period of time, this type of music has produced some of the most well-known artists in the UK including Yung Bxne, J Hus, Fuse ODG and Wizkid. PHOTOGRAPHY Emmanuel Roberts DIRECTION/STYLING Roisin O’Hare 86 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 87

“So, right now if you hear a Kida Kudz track you’ll know that’s my track … it sounds different from everybody else, and that’s what makes it stand out”

Kida Kudz wears Atika London, Fila UK, Hi-Tec, KSwiss, Kappa (courtesy of Rich PR) & Umbro, (Fabric PR) 88 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 89

With Afrobeats becoming highly infectious within the UK’s music scene, Kida Kudz is here to put Afro-swank on your radar.

Representing that West African culture, Afrobeats has impacted Afrobeats, “my genre is Afrobeat, but my sound is Afro-swank, artists not only based across African regions, including South swank is another way of saying swag, but swag is outdated so and East Africa but has grown far further a field and solidified Afro-swank is the way I express myself. So, right now if you hear itself in UK music. Mixing African rhythms along with the iconic a Kida Kudz track you’ll know that’s my track because there is vocal styles and flows, it’s no surprise that with the rise of this a way it sounds that is different from everybody else, and that’s music, shaking the globe and certainly the UK music scene, what makes it stand out”. upcoming artists are pushing to develop their own type of sound within the genre. Getting to this point has been a process of trial and error and it seems that Kida is solid in what he wants to be known for, right One of these artists, who is getting a lot of respect from both now it’s all about mastering his sound. Taking the time to craft the native home of Afrobeats and the UK, is Nigerian-native, it, is something that people have recognized him for, with artists Kida Kudz. Hailing from his birthplace of Nigeria, Kida has been such as Kojo Funds, Dremo, Abra Cadabra, Ekeno and Olami making music since he was fourteen years old and only started having had the chance to work with the rapper. pursuing it professionally five years ago, after winning the Peak Talent Show in Nigeria, which was really the beginning of his Speaking of his collaboration with Dremo on his latest single, musical career. Speaking on his beginnings and the scope of ‘Last Last’, Kida speaks of how that collaboration came about. his sound, Kida says: “‘Last Last’ is slang that people were using in Lagos and I felt I needed put it in a song and it was like a message to anybody “For past 5 years since I started, I have been searching for my going through anything that last last it’s going to be alright sound but last year I dropped my track, ‘Issa Vibe’ and after I everything is going to be good. I played the song for Dremo dropped it - I knew what my sound was. Before I was trying to and he sent me something at 5am and said he would record mess about with different sounds but right now I know what my something and at 5:30am, I got it back!” sound is, I know what I’m meant to do, and it sounds natural.” So, with the extra attention Kida is seeing this year, we had to The Afrobeat movement is one thing for people who might not know if there’s any future collaborations in the works. “I would necessarily be aware of the cultural impact, however, being from love to work with Mr Eazi. At the moment I’m looking to work Nigeria of course has had an impact in the type of music that with Burna as well, we were meant to do something before, but it Kida has made and asking him this, he said confidently, “The didn’t happen but I’m hoping that we’ll be able to do something culture is very important. You must know about the origination soon.”. As the conversation comes to an end, we are establishing of Afrobeats and the people that’ve been doing it. I’m a fan what Kida’s plans for the future are. “I’m working on a lot of of Wizkid and Burna Boy, those are my inspirations. It’s mixing singles at the moment and working with a lot of different people, our culture even being here in the UK, it’s seeing what we can a couple of DJs. I’m also working on my EP that I want to drop learn from being in the UK but also what the UK can learn from for Easter time and so I’m busy with that and just in general more Nigerians, so for me it’s mixing the two and it’s very important.”. collaborations and more singles for me. There is more music this year I feel like last year was slow, I only released four tracks It’s not just about hearing the music but also understanding the - but this year there is more music coming.” origins and what that music can mean in different places. As the scene has developed quicker in the UK than anywhere else, it The yet to be titled EP itself will be the first solid body of work poses the question of how people feel about that growth, Kida that we hear from Kida and he already knows what he wants it to

Roisin O’Hare explained his view saying, “Right now the Afrobeat scene is sound like. “The EP is based on the Afroswank sound I’ve been huge and everybody is trying to jump on it. There are people talking about, on that Issa Vibe sound. Most of the songs will that are trying to take it in a different direction, there is Afro- be good vibe music but there is a couple that will have some fusion, Afro-rap, Afro-pop and all sorts of different parts of it messages in here”. people are trying to create. So where does he fit in to all of this - “for me, I call mine Afro-swank, it’s me interpreting my own Afrobeats.” And so, with all that being said and everything that has been discussed in the conversation, I’m curious to know how Kida

DIRECTION/STYLING Although the growth of this genre has shed light on so many is able to stay true to himself, in terms of his creativity and as artists, and created a whole new scene within the UK’s music an artist and it’s clear that Kida isn’t having any hesitations or culture, are new artists who don’t have as much knowledge doubts about this as he speaks with confidence saying, “By on the genre taking away the authenticity of what Afrobeats being myself 100. I always say people just have to be real, keep stands for? everything organic, stay focused and your own thing. It’s so easy as an artist to see what other people are doing and want to It’s a very interesting question and one that made us both do things like how other people are doing things but you have to think, “I’ll appreciate the fact that people that I see are doing focus on your energy and just believe in yourself and stay true to Afrobeats, but at the same time not everybody can do it, it’s yourself and with that you will grow, it might take time, but you

Emmanuel Roberts not for everybody. People can support it, dance it, vibes to it will grow with it.”. but it’s not for everybody - so I just say it’s better to just stick to what you know.”

Moving on from other artists and re-directing the attention

PHOTOGRAPHY back to Kida, we talked about what he’s doing differently with WORDS EMILY FORTUNE 90 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 91

NINA, 18 STAR SIGN Capricorn OCCUPATION Fashion student LIKES Squares, Cats & Japanese rice bowls STYLE HATES Hugs & Basic bitches STREET FAV TRACK FKA Twigs - Two Weeks, Belle & Sebastian - Too Much Love FAV FILM X Men & Spirited Away

STAR SIGN Leo OCCUPATION Fashion designer LIKES The Simpsons, Memes & Japanese street style HATES Gold hardware, Mushrooms & Waiting for parcels FAV CLUB Anywhere that’s a bit naff FAV TRACK Sophie - Product FAV FILM Mrs Doubtfire TYE, 21

STAR SIGN Taurus OLIVER, 18 OCCUPATION Student LIKES Green tea, Burning sage & Crystals HATES Ignoramusis (ignorant people), Melania Trump & Casual fridays FAV CLUB Phonox FAV TRACK LSDXOXO - SadEmoji FAV FILM Welcome To Me

STAR SIGN Taurus OCCUPATION Student LIKES Green tea, Burning STAR SIGN Taurus sage & Crystals OCCUPATION Retail HATES Ignoramusis (ignorant LIKES Crunchy nut cornflakes, Vodka & Ducks people), Melania Trump HATES Long hair, Underwear & Rain & Casual fridays FAV CLUB Blue Boy FAV CLUB Phonox FAV TRACK Elton John - Crocodile Rock FAV TRACK LSDXOXO - FAV FILM Letter to Brezhnev BORIS, 23 SadEmoji OLIVER, 18 FAV FILM Welcome To Me 92 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 93

HIBBA, 24 MAUREEN, 28

TYE, 21

STAR SIGN Taurus STAR SIGN Don’t believe in star signs LIKES Poetry, Creating new STAR SIGN Leo LIKES Anything vegan, Good energy & Rice friendships In unexpected places & Vegan Cake OCCUPATION Fashion designer HATES Injustice, Capitalism & Trump HATES Discriminations, Inequality & Popcorn FAV FILM Women of Brewster Place FAV FILM Captain Fantastic STAR SIGN Sagittarius LIKES The Simpsons, Memes FAV TRACK Stormy Weather - FAV TRACK Calvin Harris OCCUPATION DJ & Japanese street style Billie Holliday’s version ft. Jessie Reyez - Hard to Love LIKES Free things, Chillin in bed HATES Gold hardware, eating pizza & Watching trash TV Mushrooms & FAV CLUB The Jacaranda Club in Liverpool FAV CLUB The Jacaranda Club in Liverpool HATES Birds, Blood & Time management Waiting for parcels FAV CLUB The Box FAV CLUB Anywhere FAV TRACK Anything by Lana Del Ray that’s a bit naff FAV FILM Titanic or Clueless FAV TRACK Sophie - Product PRINCE JASON-JASON, 24 FAV FILM Mrs Doubtfire TYE, 21 94 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 95

ALEXANDER, 21 OCCUPATION Student STAR SIGN Leo LIKES Trap music, Mum’s cooking & Travelling HATES Chicken feet, Towie & Louis Walsh FAV CLUB Clapham Grand FAV TRACK Jungle Pussy - Titty Attack FAV FILM Toy Story

OCCUPATION Model STAR SIGN Cancer LIKES Friends, Sportswear & Playing dress up HATES Nicki Minaj, Manufactured pop music & Reality TV FAV CLUB XOYO FAV TRACK Mary J Blige - No More Drama KHANITTAN, 22 FAV FILM Waiting to Exhale

STAR SIGN Aries OCCUPATION Fashion student FASHIEL, 27 LIKES Poetry, Music & Food HATES Complaining couples, My Eczema & People who discourage art FAV CLUB Mickey Mouse Club FAV TRACK Banks - Goddess FAV FILM Nocturnal Animals

STAR SIGN Libra STAR SIGN Sagittarius OCCUPATION Student OCCUPATION DJ LIKES Blunts music & LIKES Free things, Chillin in bed birthdaycake eating pizza & Watching trash TV HATES Children, hashtags HATES Birds, Blood & Time management & Problem patterns FAV CLUB The Box FAV CLUB Camden Underworld FAV TRACK Anything by Lana Del Ray Jay,Jay, 22 22 FAV TRACK FAV FILM Titanic or Clueless MONIASSE, 23 Death Grips - Get Got ALEXANDER, 18 FAV FILM Johnny Mnemonic 96 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 97

STAR SIGN Cancer OCCUPATION Student LIKES Art, music and weed HATES Negativity, trump and below bang on bags. STAR SIGN Scorpio

FAV TRACK Princess Nokia - Cherry cola OCCUPATION DJ LOTUS, 17 FAV FILM Christiane F LIKES Fantasy books, big macs and painting HATES Green food, running for the bus and aztec prints FAV CLUB The Box FAV TRACK Ertha Kitt - I wanna be evil FAV FILM Death Becomes Her HARRY/ CHARITY KASE, 21 98 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 99

RACHEL FOXX Bringing her husky electronic- soul to the UK scene, ASBO had to meet East-London’s very own, Rachel Foxx. 100 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 101

Over the past couple of years, Rachel has gone from SoundCloud artist to featuring on London producer, Toddla T’s new single ‘Never Mine”, and releasing her impressive second EP, the silk- toned, slow-jam covered ‘Blue Moon’.

Rachel first hit our radar after she garnered a lot of attention I was literally walking in and already writing something in my from her Colours Berlin performance of ‘To You’, the scorching head … yeah we wrote it in like an hour or something.”. We introductory track to ‘Blue Moon’. spoke on working with other artists and the differences in the creative process of working alone and in collaboration, The new EP follows are far more electronic R&B sound than her she explained, “It depends, like sometimes I’ll just hear previous project, making her a perfect target for Colours. After something in my head and sing it to someone and let them a lot of artists gain recognition on the channel, we had to find create the melody or someone could play something and out how the performance came to fruition, “Ugh I love Colours, I’ll start singing on it - it works both ways.”. I’ve always wanted to do it. So, I had a show in Berlin and I just messaged one of the girls saying that I wanted to come in and Although Rachel is gaining the recognition to work with she messaged back like ‘yeah! We’re big fans of you, could you whoever she pleases, she speaks on her days of releasing please sing ‘To You’’ … “I love Colours though it’s like proper through SoundCloud and artists from the platform that underground talent!”. The performance featuring Rachel continue to inspire her. representing her East-London roots, in full black tracksuit with Colours’ trademark background, has now amassed over “Abraham Blue is sick, Sango is sick, Xaviar Omar - i feel a million views. like a lot of people aren’t really using it that much anymore, everyone’s just Although this might be have been a lot moving to Spotify now! Spotify proper of listener’s introduction to her smooth “I WAS back artists though so that’s why!”. R&B vocals, Rachel isn’t new to the music game. Back in 2014, she released her self- LIKE ‘UH Wanting to know whether she misses titled ‘Rachel Foxx EP’ on soundcloud. using the streaming site, she says, The EP featured six emotional, stripped YEAH - I “yeah I do, like sometimes at 2am, like back tracks, presenting her ability to make my song ‘Before You’ it’s one of the eclectic sounds on the short fifthteen CAN DROP songs that did the best on the EP and minute EP. Speaking to Rachel on her like that night at 2am I just put it up cos’ previous work and the growth within her ALL MY I was in the studio and had just finished sound, she says, “A lot of my self titled EP, it. But now it’s like six weeks before I’m I wrote when I was 18, even 17 for some of PLANS like this is coming out. them. So they’re really, really old. But the sound between the two [EPs], I would say FOR RADIO But I think I’m more organised now with the self-titled, it was a lot of classical - before I was just a bit scatty like if I sounds - like really old kind of classic, then ONE!’” finished a tune I’d just put it out. I miss ‘Blue Moon’ is a lot more modern. I wanted to make electronic SoundCloud though, I was saying this the other day!”. R’n’B for ‘Blue Moon’ - but yeah on the self-titled it was more old school!’. Finally, we want to know what’s coming up for Rachel and what releases we can expect this year. “I got an EP 100%, Speaking of her growth as an artist and how being a writer which is coming out in May! Live shows in London, finally! as well as singer has fuelled collaborations with artists from I’m happy to be bringing out new music!”. all over the city and beyond. Her latest and most prolific feature was alongside Toddla T for his single ‘Never Mine’, We’ll be keeping an ear to the ground for what’s next and which dropped at the beginning of the year. She explained definitely think you should be doing the same. how working with the producer came about, “So in January last year I was in LA and he was looking for singers for his new project and I think he had already heard me on a show on 1xtra and he just reached out to me. We did the Radio One Piano Sessions for Huw Stephens. He literally called me like two days before like, ‘I need a singer, can you do it?’ And I was like ‘uh yeah - I can drop all my plans for Radio One!’. After we did the session for Huw, we got in the studio and recorded the single.”.

The track features a bashment inspired drum-line layered with Rachel’s deep, soul-filled vocals. Speaking on how the track was written she admits,, “I was late to the session so when I was walking in, it was already playing - so I was like ‘oh my god’ let me just write something. WORDS EMILY FORTUNE asbomagazine.com 103 SHELLY NORWICH UNIVERSITY OF THE ARTS 104 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 105 106 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 107 108 ASBO MAGAZINE

PHOTOGRAPHY Jordan Hardy STYLING Caitlin Brown COLLECTIONS @ Jessica Walkden, Joe Sullivan & Rachel Yim MODELS Daniel Hammond, Moriah Ogunbiyi & Will Sims ASSISTANT Chet Hutton 110 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 111

G A B B A KIDS

A YOUTH SUBCULTURE FORMULATED TO FIGHT BACK AGAINST THE REPRESSION. 112 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 113

In response to the rebellion in Ukraine in early February of 2014 the younger generation of the capital find themselves struggling to develop in a society of expectation and hardship. By embracing youth culture and expression through fashion, citizens attempt to rebuild society in the midst of an economic uproar.

Through embracing youth culture and expression, the youth are His late collection in 2017 used fur of a hat attempting to rebuild society in the midst of an economic uproar. And worn by cabinet members and featured a what typically does disenfranchisement within the youth result in? chestnut brown puffer coat to impersonate the leather couches in the Ukrainian parliament. Subcultures. Think punk, hiphop and hipsters. In addition, most subcultures burgeon from most and it’s no exception within the Additionally Gosha Rubchinskiy, a designer, Ukraine. Ukraine is the centre of a burgeoning ‘rave revolution’ filmmaker and designer takes influence amongst the younger generation, rehashing a 90s rave subculture, from the fall of culture in society to portray known as Gabber. In 2018, we’re now seeing the second coming of and inspire his work. The Russian youth Gabber; borne from the 2014 rebellion, the revolution of dignity. Over are coming of age and looking back at the the last decade we have seen a substantial of up coming designers counties past, to control their own future. emerge from Ukraine in the middle of political and economic havoc. Gosha’s S/S 18 collection, represents the The revolution has brought quirky, modern designs represented by carving of the younger generation being the those depressed with conflict, looking for a way of expression in times first cohort since the fall of the Soviet union. of such hardship - bringing back the rave subculture. The show challenges the real look of In modern society; social pressure, economic turmoil and a time of Russian beauty, showing real people from the change creates a desire to form expression. The rebellion youth of outskirts of society, represented by a range the capital was known for the generation with ‘nothing to get up for, of ‘nerd’ looking ravers, right in context with nor nothing to go to bed for either’. Job losses were at a high. So, the burgeoning rave subculture. The model’s as always, a youth subculture formulated to fight back against the overall image are described as “mixed of repression. So the city of Kieves, soon became the hub for the ultimate sportswear with a nightclub-rave feeling”, rave destinations around the world, allowing citizens to embrace creating a guaranteed general appeal. expression. Gosha’s united vision encourages creativity CXEMA is one of the key rave set up groups. In true rave subculture with the freedom to travel since the economic style, the best raves are always illegal - due to the high influx of drug change, presented with opportunities their taking at these events. However, in the midst of economical uproar parents didn’t have. Having an open mindset authorities are struggling to control such illegal activity including and individual self-expression will open new illegal substances. The appeal to many, to take drugs comes from a gateways for Ukrainian youth to thrive in sense of displacement and wanting to get away from the economic modern society. disparity, giving an instant release of liberation and freedom; however, every come-up has a come-down. The illegal raves allow freedom and There’s never been much room between rebellion with the exhilarating risk of police seizure in derelict buildings. subculture and what’s happening in the It’s a new type of expression, developing its own style, unifying the mainstream. With the rising popularity of younger generation together amongst turbulent times. sportswear as a fashion statement merging with the surging popular festival scene and Fashion has always been an intrinsic factor in the development of upcoming ravers and gabbers, we’re evolving subcultures. In the Ukraine, fashion has become more accessible than into a global community of individuals who ever with cheap flea markets and vintage clothing on the rise, enabling are looking for a vital form of expression. individuals to upcycle their wardrobe with the recycle of the capital. The markets are becoming well known to the country’s visitors, and Ukraine symbolises the younger generation as is evolvolving to be the secrets of the Ukrainian youth. They highlight a whole, trying to develop being the minority social poverty but also show the material culture of Ukraine youth, in a culture of pressure and hardship. encouraging entrepreneurial opportunities. The 90’s trend of rave culture is presenting to become a cycle by embracing everything vintage. This is becoming foreseen and represented as iconic wear for self-expression, worn at key party events especially at festivals followed and embraced by youth around the globe.

The catwalk is reflecting the rebellious nature and self-expression of the rave scene in current culture. Anton Belinskiy is an up and coming Kiev designer and former LVMH Prize finalist. Belinskiy represents modern design based on Ukraine’s troublesome politics, using a range of politically oriented references to symbolically outline his views,

Images via Gabber Eleganza whilst including recycling fabrics. WORDS ABBIE WEIGHT 114 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 115

-Stick to what you love and don’t let people tell you what to do- “It means a lot to be a female artist ... everybody is here for each other, where you would expect there to be a bitchiness and competition, we are lifting each other up

Liverpool native Tayá is delivering her “old school R&B with a modern coming through. Now I feel like there are so many of us and electronic twist”. Having already featured alongside artists such as everybody is here for each other, where you would expect Yxng Bane and Lotto Boyz, she’s certainly one to keep our eye on. there to be a bitchiness and competition, we are lifting each other up and giving each other that love and support - so it’s Following in the steps of her long-time musical influences consisting a really good era!”. of the early 2000’s R&B songstresses, Taya, is popping up all over London’s music scene. At only nineteen, she’s already been named We had to know where Taya is gaining her inspiration from one to watch. here in the UK, naming her top three artists as Stefflon Don, Mahalia and Mabel. At a time of female empowerment and Speaking about how she has always been true to her sound, she giving women the encouragement and confidence, she explains, “I don’t think my sound has really changed from when hopes that this is something that comes across in her music, I started, I feel like it’s always been the same. The content might “I feel like as an artist writing songs and putting myself on be different because I’ve grown and so I’m singing about different the line is empowering. You go what you go through and I things, but I feel like I’ve always known what I like and what I want feel like sharing my music is me telling other girls that it’s to do - so it hasn’t changed as much, as it has just grown with the okay, we all go through the same things. I want to be able times”. to let people relate and realise that it’s not just me and that we can be connected in that way”.At a time when starting as Her self-titled debut EP, which beautifully presented her R&B vocal you intend to carry on is very important in an artist, being abilities, was only released last year. Talking about the process of able to stay true to themselves and their creativity. You creating a full body of music, she says, “I loved the creative process, hear so much about artists trying to morph into sounds that last year’s EP was a long time coming and I’m happy I waited so are already out there and have already been done, part of long. Every song on there I still perform and I still love and they still what we stand for at ASBO is the ability to see upcoming have meaning to me. It was just about going in with people that you artists who are doing things their own way and creating like and make something that you love”.Starting her year off having their sounds distinctively, which is certainly something that been named one of VEVO’s Discvr artist for 2018, she also released we appreciate in Taya. Speaking confidently on this she her first single of the year ‘Skin’, which at the time of speaking had explains, “I am a very headstrong person which doesn’t just dropped. The song produced by Alan Sampson which features always make it easy for my manager but I have a clear idea ‘On Top’ rappers Lotto Boyz is according to Taya, “about the of what I will do and what I won’t do. There are times where beginning of a relationship, when you’re in the honeymoon stage I have to compromise but one that is true about me is that I and everyone’s all excited!”. have to stay true to myself”

The conversation shifted a little deeper, allowing us to get to know So what are Taya’s plans for the future? Well, she has a very the person that is Tayá. Having been on this musical journey for a clear idea of what she wants to achieve and for her it’s all while, we wanted to talk about what she has learnt about herself about putting out honest and authentic music that touches being young and in the industry. “Having been an artist for a few and connects people, “I really just want to put songs out that years, everybody grows and everybody changes. If I was going to are honest and have people relate to them and help people give advice to anybody starting out, I would just say stick to what go through whatever they are going through. I really want you love and don’t let people tell you what to do. At the end of the to touch people with my music and help them in any way day it is your music and it is what you are going to be known for - that I can.” For 2018, “I want to release every month and just you so have to make sure that you can stand by it confidently and keeping them coming, all of the music I have released up to 100%.” In the past two years, we have seen a massive increase in now, I have loved and I’m so proud of - so I just want to keep female talent being recognised coming up on the scene - especially them coming!”. in the UK. “It means a lot to be a female artist. It feels like there was such a long time where there wasn’t really new wave of females WORDS SENEO MWAMBA TAYA 116 following online-onethat’s largely madeupofyoung, likeminded LGBT individuals. tothat hehasmanaged is passion, his combine knowledgeand wit itsand internet of the workings to create enormous an studyingfor adegreehavingand What distinguishesDavidfriends. his with fun from mosthowever,age, his other people conversationprogresses wouldit clear to be anyonethat David guy,a normal is awayspent time his from internet the in any ofthe vegan food, laughsandconfesses he gently “No, I’mnotavegan,will hold outfor my KFClater on”. As the asonemightassumeact a social would doesn’t media influencer I –when ask himifhe’sHe certainly to going indulge Levels isDavid Olshanetsky, Tumblr social mediainfluencer. bloggerturned Sitting at a little vegan atalittle Sitting tucked eatery modishPeckham insidethecolourful, ASBO MAGAZINE Young, spoken, laidbackandsoft onfirst impression noonewould guess the following thatDavid hasmanagedto attract.

DAVID OLSHANETSKY didn’t know anyone inschoolwhowas gay atthetime. that, you know, thefirst gayI when on socialmedia I hadmade friends I think there’s goodelements andbadelements. I think we’re really lucky this socialmediasurrounding it? How do you think communities like the LGBT would beif there wasn’t less value insharingthosenegative things. difficult to havenegative these suddenly,intrude people andthere’s alot group.that smaller there’s Because it’scommunities, much smaller more even so similar things, on they’rewhen it’sof stuff a lot sharing still within Tumblr I’monlyreally followingthey’reand of blogs number a smaller all and theypeople all have theirown views andareon sharingthem, butthen On twitter, my news feedis a million different posts from a million different culturessub on so based is luckily it one, because, I think communities. and attracts LGBT? to many people, particularly You owe a lot to Tumblr – what is it about the website do you think that knock joke from two weeks ago. exactthe at thinking Peoplemoment. same wantdon’t to sharea knock- to circulateimmediatelystart it that’ssee because everyonewhat is else like Ariana Grande,I’llimmediately tell everyoneof itandI what I think makeand it about I reallya song with out comes If someone of it. fun like, nowon right Drag Raceis stupidsomething said I’llpostsomeone and who have people these followersa million it’sand youbecause, know, if away. I’veTumblrthe on been more of some than times trending chart posts,schedule don’t funnysomething ifIfind Isharethere it straight “knock-knock who’s there” jokes. type Andthey schedulethoseposts - I that theythings know thateveryone willfindfunny, butit’s like themost very very neutral, vanilla, very Taylor Swift-that they in thesense share viral or going circulating. I think it’s becausethey all got builtuponbeing followersa million or more, they of postsamount same justthe get don’t talked to whotalkabouttheiraccountsEven dying. though they still have There’sfroma lotofpeople Tumblroriginal the from2012 whoI’ve backin have somany followers andyour appeal? What goesinto making a viral post? How would youwhy describe you going onintheworld. Don’tjust tryto make money offthem. transparentbe yourabout views,totry and makeawarepeople of what’s events orviews thatI want to hear, butatleast share thoseviews and political same the about stuff sharing be and me as opinions same the that’sthis issomething to me”. really important expectI don’t her to have that”,buy “Buy this really when also and that, buy “Buy this be should it postswhose Swift are allabouthertour,music videoand heralbumand on every platform,they and correctly.it use don’t like Someone Taylor alwayslikepeople talk about Taylor who have Swift biggestthe following you never knowyou when into bump might or work them I them, but with Absolutely. WithmostI wouldn’t otherthings, say theperson because speak upaboutissues? Do you think it’s forwho havepeople important a large following to need to see,inbetween allofthat. fromthings dragrace, I want to make sure they’retheythings alsoseeing justnot I’m reaching youwith, them know,Trainor Megan jokesor funny that outthere becauseifI can reachI wantpeople these to make sure the March for ourlivesthat theparklandstudents organised.I always put that arethings toneed that people politics in happening knowabout, like with my things share followers, important or protests beitpetitions or I create my own and astheTumblr’s stuff grownthere’s toa need been really immaturewerethat Ithought but dumb and funny Nowtime. atthe or justBridesmaids, like jokes about ClubPenguin. that areThings just reallyshare today like– low gifsquality of funny quotes from movies like originally posted, I never delete anything, butlike 99% of it I wouldn’t effectively. If you scroll backthrough my archive I the stuff see and So,I created when my Tumblr, itwas really justto anoutlet shitpost people bit about that – whatyoutella little me post, how you interact with So, firstly, you got to where you areof your because Tumblr– canyou number onespoteleven timesalready thisyear. Instagramon haveand Tumblrhis page, a Wikipedia trending the in Atjust twenty years Davidof age, Tumblronly the is toblogger verified be love to work withher. stoppedcrying, I burst outcryingagain.SoIwould youcry, can’t together”.it get as I soon as And I recovered,then And like, “You’re place, a public in Halsey was gone. It wasn’t because they wereit was gone, thefact that stayed, andassoonthey leftI just burst outcrying. myand todecided friends goto adifferentI and act my atthefront friends finished andherset barrier loweringhomophobia at festivals, I cried twice.I with saw heratReadingfestival where I was working on anyin capacity, I love Halsey I when much that so faris. Butas it who I’vepeople as workednot with out yetthe bookisn’t because but sayI can’t who there’sinvolved somebody whoI’mso excited about, I havethat is thing The fun waythe a bookon and like to work withinfuture? Following that, what person or brand would you gonna say! posts, andthey’ve madeitvery clear. That’s all I’m There’sout theresomeone whoreallylike doesn’t my out therewho, actually,even Ican’t say story! this saygonna not I’m but there’s hername popstarone it’s niceto know thatthey’re okay withwhatyou do. expectI don’t tothem followbut me me orbefriend that they are onyour side. interview. It’syouwhen things of those one realise foundreallyit funnyeven and talked an in about it that’sthis nobody makingfunof myBut she song? like,it andbeen seen whatisthisguydoing?Who is could havetaken of twoone it ways.could haveShe sharedof myone likeabout hersong, memes she that makes mesoexcited. I rememberRita Ora when it funnyto enough share withtheirown- audience know thatthey’re awarefoundand I did ofsomething a fanbeing of or atleast watched theirvideos,soto likepeople Tyler Oakley,are these I peoplegrew up It’salways exciting.so Even it’swhen digital other love? youwhen workor abrand withsomeone that you sharesor interacts with somethingyou post or How doyou react when someone you look up to the words. person– itwas justto easier the words type than say I beforecame outonline the internet. I came out in for becauseitiseasier of that is usbecausewe have webecause have so “easy”it today, part I think and history. A lotof older gays make funof younger gays that we’realso meant forgetting gayof the a lot or whateveror hookup friends or be mayit it’s be, I think thefact thatit’s easierfor us to communicate or movies. bands fansBut atthesametime, of certain so many differentand subculturescommunities or who are away,much farther about said that canbe and So, it’sletsit because easier you reach to out people WORDS asbomagazine.com

AMY ESKENAZI

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ASH ALLIBHAI STYLIST VANYA SACHA PHOTOGRAPHY MICHAEL HONE 120 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 121

“Fashion can be a fantastic industry, inspirational, creative, but it is a tough industry to make a living in. I think it is very important to be flexible”

He speaks as someone who has just completed that process, from Obviously, commerciality is not thintention of a how he fared after completing his MA in Menswear Fashion Design at graduate collection. As a designer, do you want London College of Fashion, getting his first paying job as a designer to be sellable? for Caroline Charles, to where he sees himself in the future. Michael: Yes and no. There is so much fashion He discussed how to balance commerciality and creativity, and the out there and talent, so I think you must be inspiration behind his latest graduate collection. innovative. But fashion is ultimately a business, so you must be able to sell things. It’s not visible Go on then, what are all the furry pieces in your collection about? in my graduate collection, but underneath all the hairpieces are some more wearable pieces. I find MICHAEL: The name of the collection is the Adonis Complex, which designers who are doing something different and is a colloquial term for muscle dysmorphic disorder - looking in the wanting to innovate to be most inspirational. mirror and thinking that you are skinny, when you are buff. You have just graduated your MA and landed a It’s this obsession with getting bigger and being more masculine, paying job, which is very fortunate. If you were and then you start taking steroids and become this unnatural form to come into hard times, what would be your of what a man is, hence all the overwhelming hair and the distorted motivation to carry on? proportions. Michael: Fashion is partly a hobby, because It’s just odd, because from a physical attraction perspective… you enjoy doing it. It can be hard when you have deadlines at college, but I was one of those MICHAEL: Nobody finds this body-type attractive. I think it is a annoying ones who would always just want to desire to show dominance, power and strength, more than it is about do the work. I enjoyed most aspects of fashion, attraction. including reports, so that is especially rare… but you only do fashion because you love it. It’s not So, this idea of the distortion of masculinity - how did it play because its ridiculously well-paid, or the hours itself out in the collection? aren’t long.

MICHAEL: The idea was to take aspects of what we associate with What advice would you give young, prospective masculinity to an extreme. As part of the MA, you are required fashion designers then? to collaborate with someone, so I chose a wig-maker, and that developed into creating textiles from hair - a bonding that the Michael: Fashion can be a fantastic industry, synthetic hair is attached to. We used synthetic hair because of the inspirational, creative, but it is a tough industry to ethical issues behind sourcing real hair. make a living in. I think it is very important to be flexible. I have friends who would say, ‘Oh I have I like how you stuck to solid primary colours in the collection, to work with so and so designer. I have to get an just to give it that clean slate. internship here or there.’ But then what happens if you do not? There are a lot of fashion students all MICHAEL: A lot of it related to power dressing (referring again to around the world looking for the same spot. You idea of hyper masculinity), so I did a lot of colour research. Red is have to be open to doing things that you may not more aggressive; gold was used in religious paintings and envisaged have thought you would do, and keep going with it. as all-powerful and all mighty; and the white has nothing to do with purity or innocence, but rather drew from Mussolini’s big white marble statues of muscular men, erected in his new capital, to show the ideal Italian citizen (from a dictator’s eyes).

But I think fashion is very subjective, so I am happy for people to give it their own interpretation. WORDS LITHEMBA VELLEMAN 122 ASBO MAGAZINE asbomagazine.com 123 “WE FOUND

They are Cass Rowe, Stan Greengrass, Jeeves THIS HOME They are friends Kanth, and George Shaw from Leicester, and since forever, they find themselves “[at] home with the punks, WITH THE queers, and the outcasts,” in Skechers and whose interwoven cloaks and forest frolics, in smoky basement brainstorms spawning satanic-slick electric PUNKS, QUEERS teenage years and escapism and lullaby lyrics. insatiable creative AND THE They are the teddy bear goth kids, ringed in appetite led them black eyeliner and slowly patchworking fits of good ol’ existential dread into transmissions OUTCASTS, from comic books, capturing fellow Brexit youths who are uncertain stories and film about the future. AND MET ventures to their For Ash Mammal, 2016 was a well-documented year, including an album and two disparate music SOME AMAZING next inevitable video releases. Their audiovisual introduction venture: music. was “Taste,” a dizzying day with the band in an PEOPLE. WE’VE overexposed black and white confessional, with footage so noughties: at times childishly making snow angels, and then in a true “exercise in ALL GOT EACH punkish unpredictability,” the baptismal slam of guitarist Shaw into a dirty bath by drummer Greengrass. Next came hazy “Creature Thing,” lead singer Rowe’s journey to the OTHERS SWEATY tip of a cigarette, a lovesick raspy inhale silhouetted against kaleidoscopic band reel. Finally, last October, came their first BACKS.” album, The Ghost We Caught on Film. The album fades from angry to soft to noisy and back, and Ash Mammal moodswings candidly, preferring to “write a lot about how we feel rather than how we think.” Their debut album proved their poetry precocious. Young and hurt and mad about it, The Ghost We Caught on Film contains seething one-liners and “savage sexual put-downs hidden behind these beautiful harmonies,” gushes Greengrass, the source of the soprano soothing “ooo’s” of Ash Mammal. It’s a celebrated British trope: teenagers whose angst boils so unacknowledged, making noise until it is good enough to be heard after being stuffed in old traditional school gender- divided rigidity. With collective maturity stunted at 14, Ash Mammal describes life with the band as “like being in Neverland, if Neverland was a basement full of smoke and guitar amps.” Ash Mammal treads on and beyond the famed British punk basement foundation, providing enchantment for the disenchanted and digitized next generation. “We like to use disappointment to fuel us,” the band confesses. In post-Brexit Britain, disappointment in the under-24s is thick and heavy. Needless to say, Ash Mammal has a post- apocalyptic-level of fuel for their punk experiment; sucking on notions of spoiled potential, they proudly convert “every suburban woe” into their music. They keep tabs on what “the kids are up to politically,” noting the change in tone post-Brexit: “It feels like the general zeitgeist has been social exhaustion and depression memes, but Brexit seems to have stirred something up in people.” They are the stirring authors of new British sound, one that they predict will be “angry, passionate, but probably a little sad as well,” as a nation decidedly independent reconciles with what it means to be inclusive, modern, and free for all expressions. “So much of our audiences are LGBT - we can see directly how it’s all affecting them. In a huge way, we all hate Britain, hate Patriotism, hate how the English flag has come to represent everything we despise about our country, as opposed to what we appreciate: the multiculturality, the expression of self, the punk scene and the NHS - especially in Leicester, a labour held and ‘vote stay’ majority city.” Ash Mammal will continue to be just friends with instruments draped in shiny £5 Ebay impulses, maximizing tiny places and festering disappointments; experimenting in their perpetual adolescence and looking out for the kids. Sink your claws into their self-published zine, New Shoes, and burrow your earworms into The Ghost We Caught on Film. Grab some pearls and get ready to clutch for the upcoming excellence of their EP, “Blood Doesn’t Cool.” Although its release date is still to be announced, ASBO assures it is worth waiting for. WORDS KIT KEANE ASH MAMMAL asbomagazine.com 125

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