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4 TR THE NEW YORK TIMES, SUNDAY, MAY 10, 2015

SURFACING EAST LONDON A Pocket of Hackney Goes Bohemian-Chic, but Stays Quirky

The unpolished Hackney pocket of East London sur- rounding Chatsworth Road used to look derelict with shuttered shops among African hairdressers, kebab shops and fried chicken joints. But in recent years, its affordable housing prices have lured middle-class families. A host of young entrepreneurs with taste and vision has followed. The area now teems with bohemian cafes, organic grocery stores, boutiques and a bustling outdoor fruit and vegetable market on Sundays. However, Chatsworth Road is still very much a culturally diverse main artery of the neigh- borhood that retains its quirky allure. The street runs parallel to the River Lea, a picturesque setting of live- in barges — perfect for a summer stroll. ROOKSANA HOSSENALLY Eat 17 Hackney Upstairs This speakeasy-style eating PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDY HASLAM FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES Pivaz and drinking haunt, formerly a Originally from , Zerdo Russell’s B&B snooker club, opened last year in Karakollik opened this buzzy Inside this pink Victorian the attic of an old cinema house. restaurant last summer, serving terraced house, Annette Russell Owned by Chris O’Connor and generous portions of succulent operates a stylish six-room B&B, James Brundle, Eat 17 demon- Turkish fare. Dishes include which brims with laid-back charm, strates London’s skill for mezzes and hellim (grilled quirky artwork and original vintage injecting life back into tired cheese) starters and moussaka 1960s and ’70s furniture. Ms. buildings. A playful and cozy mix and lamb kuzu mains, as well as Russell’s breakfasts of mushrooms of vintage 1920s and Art Deco heavenly breakfasts, in a cooked in truffle oil are a highlight. styles, the place offers seasonal contemporary 123 Chatsworth Road; comfort food including a smoked farmhouse-inspired setting with 44-797-666-9906; russellsofclapton Cheddar burger and Longhorn exposed brick walls and reclaimed .com rib-eye steak with Stilton mac timber furniture. 34 Chatsworth and cheese. 64-66 Brooksby’s Road; 44-20-8985-2599; pivaz.co.uk Walk; 44-20-8986-6242; eat17.co.uk/hackney-upstairs

Everything but the Dog Hannah Wright and George Sims set up this little jewel in early April, basically to accommodate a hobby that got out of hand: collecting CAFES, ORGANIC Botany furniture. Finds include chairs by GROCERIES AND A This compact bohemian the notable Italian designer Vico SUNDAY MARKET nursery and shop is a haven of R Magistretti for the Danish design I HAVE MOVED IN V carefully curated house plants like Russell’sRuRussell’e s B&B&BB E company Fritz Hansen and a 1920s AROUND R L succulents, cactuses and E English Ercol sofa, as well as A CHATSWORTH wildflowers that look as if they’ve housewares. 65 Chatsworth Road; ROAD. CHACH HACKHAHACACKKNEYK EYY been plucked from a nearby ATSWORTAT 44-7414 99 1228;

WO meadow. Opened in April 2014 by GGL everythingbutthedog.eu LYN RD. Angela Maynard, Botany also Everythingth TH RD. RD offers organic skin-care products, butut thee DDoDog RD LondonLondon on stationery and handmade Pivaz housewares and ceramics that BotanyB Eat 17 reflect the owner’s philosophy of Haackneyckney Upstairss rss honest and natural living. 5 BROBROOKSOOKSBY’SO S S WALKAL Chatsworth Road; 44-7583-934-366; botanyshop.co.uk

CHECK IN Bites Kazerne EINDHOVEN, THE NETHERLANDS VAULT KARAKOY, ISTANBUL What the Bankers Left Behind

Rates Doubles start at 169 euros in low season ($180 at $1.07 to the euro), 239 euros in high.

Basics Bankalar Caddesi, a narrow street lined with stone buildings and long known as a fi- nancial hub, is now building impressive holdings in style as well. Three years ago the Gradiva Hotel arrived, bustling with a

RUUD BA jazz club and rooftop bar. Last year Vault Parmigiano-Reggiano gnudi with sage, fava beans and grilled asparagus. Karakoy, the House Hotel, further upped the ante. In a former 19th-century Ottoman- era bank, the 63-room hotel was renovated at a cost of more than $40 million by Han Eat, Drink and View the Art Tumertekin, a winner of the Aga Khan On paper, the plan for add a layer to the experience.” Award for Architecture. It brims with peri- od details and has an elegant interior design Kazerne must have Layers is more like it. The art by Sinan Kafadar, who has worked on some sounded pie-in-the- enveloping Kazerne’s diners of ’s top hotels. sky: renovate a beat- ranges from kinetic sculpture to up, cavernous building in the mesmerizing lighting in exhibits Location center of Eindhoven, a southern rotating every few months. Sultanahmet, the neighborhood that houses Dutch city in the midst of a re- With such emphasis on design, the city’s best known historical structures, awakening. Transform it into a I feared that the food would be an like Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque, is A view outside and marble underfoot in a bathroom. A vault in the basement holds the wine cellar. restaurant-slash-showcase for afterthought. Not so. The Medi- just across the Golden Horn waterway and design and technology. Throw in terranean-influenced menu from easily accessible by tram. Contemporary Is- Amenities meeting spaces, a design shop Roger van de Loo, the chef, tanbul is also steps away. SALT , a Historical detail suffuses the common ar- and lodging. changes weekly (atypical in these well-known art gallery, is practically next eas, from the wrought-iron elevator doors To the delight of locals, that parts), offering four starters and door, while the design boutiques, funky to the marble columns and decorative fire- dream, concocted by a Dutch main dishes. During a recent cafes and D.J.-powered resto-bars of the place in the lobby, which houses a circular couple, was realized late last year visit, we began with a crisp cold Karakoy waterfront district are just 10 min- bar. Most impressive, the bank’s vaults when Kazerne opened its doors in octopus, eggplant and tomato utes on foot. have been repurposed with aplomb. One an industrial space. Improbably, salad and a hefty portion of beef massive basement vault contains a wine The Room the 8,000-square-foot main room, pastrami with a zesty tomato cellar and another houses one of four con- A box of chocolates tied with a golden bow in dark hues illuminated by chutney. Enticed by aromas from ference rooms. A white marble hammam, welcomed me to my room, a fourth-floor moody lighting, manages to con- a neighboring table, I ordered the spa, gym and sauna are also underground. Classic King. Lined by tall windows over- vey both cool and cozy, aided by a eggplant Parmesan, which was looking Sultanahmet, the space gave off a Dining smallish dining area in the center. flavorful and not too cheesy, while subdued, sophisticated vibe with its autum- The restaurant, Kasa Lokanta, serves up- (The remaining element, seven my partner dug into a healthy nal tones and natural materials: ash gray dated takes on classic Turkish cuisine (fen- guest rooms, is planned for 2016.) portion of spicy chopped lamb, walls, sage green fabrics, walnut-stained nel in olive oil with quince purée; leek balls The idealists behind Kazerne accompanied by basil mashed wood floor, paneled white doors (leading to in smoked yogurt), burgers, salads and in- are the designer Annemoon potatoes and crunchy asparagus. a full closet). A flat-screen television, an ternational dishes (grilled duck; beef ribs; Geurts and her partner Koen Before leaving, we peeked into iPod station, free Wi-Fi and bedside lighting sea bass with mastic). The room service Rijnbeek. Like many of the de- a back room to admire a flowing, controls fulfill technological needs, while an menu is extensive but mainstream: signers whose work Ms. Geurts glowing sculpture of LED-pow- espresso maker and minibar (stocked with burgers, salads, a club sandwich, spaghetti, spotlights, she graduated from ered dandelions by Studio Drift, products like Italian biscotti and a half bot- eggs Benedict, pancakes. Design Academy Eindhoven. The artwork Ms. Geurts describes as tle of German sparkling wine) satisfy idea emerged from a pop-up “the DNA of Eindhoven — techni- corporeal cravings, for a price. The Bottom Line restaurant they ran during Dutch cal and emotional, and together Away from the overcrowded tourist zones The Bathroom Design Week. they make a beautiful thing.” near Square and Istiklal Caddesi, Floor-to-ceiling Carrara marble lends the “We wouldn’t have started DIANE DANIEL this hotel is a solid choice (but by no means spacious bathroom a classical feel. Thanks Kazerne if it was just a place to a bargain)for those seeking a quiet but cen- ...... to a glass-walled shower with a recessed tral location and abundant amenities. eat,” said Ms. Geurts, who runs Kazerne, Paradijslaan 2-8; 31 40- marble bench, you can cozy up to your part- SETH SHERWOOD the business through two 30-41-388; kazerne.com. An aver- ner under the rushing water before slipping ...... nonprofits. “It’s really our mission age meal for two, without drinks or into white terry cloth bathrobes. A phone Vault Karakoy, The House Hotel, Bankalar to bring the added value of the tip, is 75 euros, about $80 at $1.07 next to the toilet ensures that nothing inter- Caddesi 5, Beyoglu; 90-212-244-3400; creative industries to people, to to the euro. feres with deal making. thehousehotel.com.