Garden Oasis Shi Ph.D.S
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Eating Out RESTAURANT REVIEW for specials. Pay attention to the specials. One night we had ribbons of heart-stop- ping Kobe beef tataki, with scal- lions and ponzu sauce. Whether it was Kobe-style or real Kobe didn’t matter for a platter this full and rich, and only $12.90. Another special was calamari ($8.90), sliced like flat noodles and served on rice, with a shiso leaf, scallions, daikon sprouts and two dabs of spicy horseradish-like condiments. Marjan Sadoughi Marjan Two slabs of exquisite bluefin toro ($12) lay on their rice pads and glistened. Our main event was the “sushi mix of today” ($35), served on a large clear glass platter shaped like Nigiri is part of the lunch menu at a fish. The three-course sushi ex- Marjan Sadoughi Marjan Sushi Tomi restaurant travaganza does require some de- Stephanie Alvarez Stephanie cision-making. First, we chose as- Lunch was fair to middling, ex- paragus salad over seaweed, and it cept for the sushi sampler. It was was fine. Next, soups include clear busy — people were waiting and fish, miso with mushrooms and there is no place to wait except the miso with clams. (While the miso Sushi chefs Hojo Muneomi and Tetsuya Muramatsu prepare food at Sushi Tomi in downtown Mountain sidewalk. And though our lunch at lunch was anemic, the clam miso View. Alana’s Café occupies a charming 19th-century Victorian home. It is the perfect spot for a quiet breakfast or server could not have been better, benefited from a healthy handful of lunch on the porch. she couldn’t save a soggy unagi sweet shellfish.) You also get your preferences, and doesn’t cater only donburi ($11), broiled eel on rice. choice of six-piece sushi rolls, the If you knew sushi to Japanese business people or su- The miso soup was weak and the California or the luscious negitoro- Garden oasis shi Ph.D.s. You don’t have to know bento box lunch ($9.90) had to com- maki. From bluefin toro to California rolls, veteran bluefin from yellowtail to get a very pensate in portion sizes for what And then, you pick 10 nigiri sushi Alana’s CaféSushi offers Tomi stress-free has sushi dining covered in the middle fine meal. it lacked in power. The vegetable from a menu of 16, including salm- of byRedwood Sheila Himmel City Kitamura worked at his partner’s tempura did not come recently from onAlana’s roe and Cafe, sea 1020 urchin, Main the St., working Red- restaurant, Tomisushi in San Jose, the fryer and the chicken teriyaki person’swood City; caviar (650) and 366-1498 foie gras. Yel- by Anthony Silk then plied the sushi trade in Bel- had a gluey glaze. lowtail,Hours: Tue.salmon, - Fri.: tuna, 7 a.m. striped - 2 bass, ot much to look at, down- The wide-ranging menu is a little gium for two years before opening However, many Japanese restau- eelp.m.; and Sat. halibut - Sun.: are 8 a.m. on offer.- 2 p.m.; With town Mountain View’s Sushi confusing. Specials are posted in in Mountain View. Last spring, rants toss off the little green salad sweetClosed shrimp Monday. you get not only a N Tomi is noticeable from the small printing as you walk in, but he and his wife opened Hana, a that comes with everything, and butterfliedAtmosphere: body Cozy but Victorian also, in home a sepa- street by only a little red shingle your server may not mention them. Chinese restaurant with Japanese you wonder why they even bother. rateturned bowl into with a cheery a slice café. of lemon, the saying “Tomi.” Chef and owner You may be handed two or three sensibilities, in San Jose. Now she At Sushi Tomi it is a mix of crisp headHighlights: fried inOatmeal tempura pancakes batter. And Takao Kitamura defines “tomi” printed menus, plus, at dinner, a runs Hana, and he’s always at Sushi head lettuce, cabbage and carrots this($6.25), time basil the tempurachicken salad is hot. as a great variety of tastes, which half-page for marking your choices Tomi. drizzled with Kitamura’s mayo- ($7.75),Dessert carrot finishes cake off($3.95), the daily apri- su- exactly describes his 11-year-old on the $35 sushi mix of the day. The two-room restaurant offers based dressing and flecked with shicot mixer. tea ($1.50). Have the creamy green restaurant. Some tastes are better Another aspect of Sushi Tomi’s 72 seats and minimal decor. Up white sesame seeds. teaPrice ice Range:cream. Breakfast: ■ $5.25 than others. “tomi” is the great variety of serv- front, 10 people sit at the sushi bar, If teriyaki is a must, Sushi Tomi - $9; Lunch: $5.95 - $9.25; Des- My advice is to stick with su- ers’ skills. Some are too quick for interacting in Japanese and hand is there for you with the Big Four: serts:Sushi $1.25 Tomi - $4.50 635 W. Dana St., shi and get your chicken teriyaki the diner’s own good, and keep motions with three sushi chefs. chicken, beef, pork and salmon. The Mountain View (650) 968- somewhere else. Kitamura gets coming back before you’re ready to There are Western tables and com- non-sushi menu ranges from pork 3227 spectacular fish and seafood from order. You may get ice cream while fortable tatami booths where you cutlets to pot stickers and yosenabe, www.sushitomi.comReservations ✔ Catering Japan, the East Coast and locally, still eating dinner. Still, if you ask leave your shoes behind. These the Japanese bouillabaisse. Dinners ✔Hours:Credit cardsLunch: Mon.-Fri.,✔ Outdoor and he doesn’t charge expense-ac- a question they can’t answer, they’ll work particularly well for families come with salad, miso soup and seating ✔11:30Lot Parking a.m.-2:30 p.m. count prices. He has bluefin toro go find out. with small children. rice. They top out at $13.90, except Dinner: Sun.-Wed.,✔ Noise 5-9 p.m.;level: just about all the time. No boats in Kitamura learned to be a sushi Alcohol Low a moat, no all-you-can-eat buffet chef in San Jose as well as in Ja- Thurs.-Sat., 5-9:30 p.m. ON THE WEB: Hundreds of restaurant reviews at www.PaloAltoOnline.com ✔ Takeout Bathroom — just good fish. pan. He is attuned to Bay Area Cleanliness: ✔ Highchairs Average ✔ Wheelchair NOW SERVING coffee, with in-house roasted beans. Early salad, raita and dessert. Lunch buffet. The pure vegetarian homestyle cooking $$ (Reviewedaccess August 29, 2002) Following are condensed versions, in alpha- morning, find baskets of muffins, bagels Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Mon.-Wed. here means handmade roti breads, made- Dittmer’s Gourmet Meats and Wurst and pastries, while at noontime choose 5-9:30 p.m.; Thu.-Sun. 5-10:30 p.m. $$ from-scratch sauces and chutneys, and betical order, of longer restaurant reviews ON THE WEB: Hundreds of restaurant reviews at www.PaloAltoOnline.com House,Banquet 400 San Antonio Road, Mountain published in the Weekly over the past several from sandwiches and salads. Wireless (Reviewed January 12, 1996) a wide selection of vegetables. Lunch is View (650) 941-3800 years. This week’s reviews begin where the Internet access; live jazz on weekends. Dashi, 873 Hamilton Ave., Menlo Park a bountiful buffet; dinner is a thali platter This small shop is home to almost 50 list ended one week ago. Mon.-Thu. 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri. 6:30 (650) 328-6868 with lots of small bites. Desserts are not types of sausage and more than 30 lunch $15-$23 for two people — a bit hefty given sauce from the case ($4-$5 for two); aug- has. When owner Sam Petrakis died in NOWPrice SERVING Guide: (Beverages not included in a.m.-11 p.m.; Sat. 8 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sun. 8 This hip and stylish Japanese restaurant to be missed. Daily 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m. $ meats, 40 smoked meats and assorted the average quality of the food. For lunch, ment with an insalata mista ($3.95, enough 1990, Maria, his wife, sold their 17-year-old average meal prices) $ - Average meal per a.m.-6A.G. Ferrari p.m. $Foods, (Reviewed 200 HamiltonDecember Ave., 28, serves big portions of absolutely fresh (Reviewed November 10, 2000) liverwursts, pats, poultry and smoked Following are condensed versions, in alpha- try the grilled panini sandwiches ($5.25) for two) and a loaf of Italian bread. Mon.- family business. The location then became person less than $10 $$ - Average meal 2001)Palo Alto (650) 752-0900 Shopping the and beautiful sushi and sashimi, as well Dinah’s Poolside Grill, 4261 El Camino fish. Sandwiches and drinks also avail- betical order, of longer restaurant reviews and soups, such as the fresh mushroom Sat. 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.-6 p.m. The Acorn Bar and Grill, but after two years published$10-$15 $$$ in the - $15-$20 Weekly over $$$$ the - Abovepast several $20 Darbarbeautifully Indian laid-out Cuisine, shelves, 129 rife Lytton with allAve., as tempura, udon noodle and grilled fish Real, Palo Alto (650) 493-4542 able. Seating is only available outside on Palothings Alto Italian, (650) is the 321-6688 real draw of this local andwith vegetablea rich onion specialties. and beef broth Lunch ($2.95). Mon.- Run$$-$$ by (Reviewed the Magnuson , ) family for 25 years. picnic-styleMaria was not benches. happy withMon.-Fri. the changes 9 a.m.-6 the years.Dana StreetThis week’s Coffee reviews Roasting begin Company, where the Desserts such as pannacotta frutti and La new owners made.