• THE ALPINE .JOURNAL

Vol. 55, Nos. 270, 271, 272 and 273

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THE •

A RECORD OF ' MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE AND SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATION BY MEMBERS OF THE ALPINE CLUB'

VOLUME 55

(NOS. 270, 271, 272 AND 273) 1945- 1946 . I

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EDITED BY H. E. G. TYNDALE

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PUBLISHED BY THE ALPINE CIJUB

74 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET, LONDON, W .. 1 1945-1946 •

INDEX

Vol. 55, Nos. 270, 271, 272 and 273

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VOL. LV. NO. CCLXXIII. 2G •

• INDEX

CoMPILED BY F. OUGHTON, AssiSTANT LIBRARIAN.

AGASSIZHORN : ascent, 353 Bandar Punch (Central Himalaya) : Aiguille d'Argentiere: tr., 281 Reconnaissance and at­ ...t\iguill e Noire de Peteret : solo ascent, tempts on, 173 et seq. ; 241 ills., 182, 184 Aiguilles Rouges du Dolent : ascent, Barford, J. E. Q. : book, Clinzbing in of highest point, 28 I B1~i tain, 434 ; revs., Guide Aitchison, I. G. : rev., British Ski du Massif des Ecrins (Devies Year Book, I I 5 et L aloue), L es Aiguilles Ala Dag : Note on I945 expedition, Rouges (Lepiney), 435 ; The 222 (see also TAURUS MASSIF) use of the Rope in Rock Albigna Glacier : 12, I6, 17 Climbing, 384 et seq. Aletschhorn by the Hasler rib : ascent, Barrow, Waiter : obit., Arthur . 353 ~ Hackett, 89 Allalinhorn from Zermatt, 3 9 I Bartrum, G. L. : obit., W. R. Reade, Alpago District (Dolomites) : m ap, 321 . 161 de Beer, G. R. : book, Escape to ALPINE CLUB ' ' ' S witzerland, 2.27 ; Puzzles, History of, 110 405 et seq. In , 225 Ben a' Bhuird, Cairngorms, 239 Meet, 217 Bere, R. M. : Ruwenzori, Mounts Alpine Fauna (insects), 357 et seq. Stanley and Speke, 257 et seq . ALPINE }OURNAL, 109 Benet, J, }., 427 Alpine Museum at Sion, 103 Bisitun (Iran) : ascent, 275 et seq. American Alpine Club, Message of Blakeney, T. S. : Approach to condolence, 215 l{ ailas, 3 r6 et seq. ; A American Equipment, 348, 366 Rival to Mount Everest, 320 Amery, L. S. : obit., A. 0. Wheeler, Blanc, Mont : Accident in 1792, 205 identity of party, 409 ; Amrao Singh: a remarkable charac- Proprietary rights, 426 ; ter, 379 Seven Views of: (Paper), Andenmatten, Franz, 427 121 et seq. ; tr., 283 Anzevui, Jean : death of, 427 Bloch, Olaf : obit., 98 • Apennines, From the, 105 Bobi Arsandaux Refuge Bivouac, Arctic Rescue Training Centre, 350 r66, 167 Ascherson, C. S. : obit., i98 Booth, H. : A. C . Meet in N. Wales, A.T.C. Mountain Training Courses : 217 ; rev., L akeland Jour­ Syllabus and instructors, ney (Poucher), 228 398 Bot Kulan Gani Pass (Kashmir), 74 Auldjo, John : ascent of , Bowen, H. C., 282 122- 124 Bregaglia : Guide Books, 12 ; Paper, II Breithorn (Zermatter) : ascent, 10 BACONE, Piz : first ascent, by S. ridge, Brigg, J. J. : obit., 83 IS British Mountaineering Council : Badile, Pizzo : by the ·W. ridge, r6 ; Constitution and Statutes, Adventure on, I 8 r 87 ; Discussion re, I 19- Baker, G. P., 316 120 ; Note, I I I Baker, W. M.: Accident on ascent of British Ski Y ear Book : rev., 1 r 5 Rimpfischhorn, 389 Brooks, Eric (President A. C. Canada): Balfour, Lord : death of, 103 ascent of Mt. Louis, 70

I ' INDEX 443 Brown, R. A. : obit., 306 Canadian Rockies cont. Bruyn, I. de : Letters from Swi tzer­ Pinnacle : ascent, 67 land, 219-221, 223 President : ascent, 67 Bullock, G. H., 2, 4, 7 Robson: flight round summit, 44 Bullock, H. D. : From the Apennines, Snow Dome : ascent, 43 ; ski 105 ascent, 349 Busk, Douglas : book, The Delectable Tekarra : ascent in a blizzard, 66 Mountains, 430 Temple : ascent, 69 BtL'Cton, Sir T. Fowell : obit., 301 Thunderbolt : ascent on ski, 40 Byron, Lord, on Mont Blanc, 133 Victoria : ascent, 6 5 Wilcox : ascent, 67 Whyte : ascent, 67 CAIMAN from Envers de Blaitiere: Capel Curig : Mountain Warfare first ascent, 169 Training at, 346 Cairngonns : courses for A. T. C. Caroline of Brunswick's SvJiss Jour­ • Cadets, 395 et seq.; ills., ney : problem of motive in 396, 397 ; Mountain War­ description of, 41 I , 412 fare Training in the, 235 Castello, Ci1na di, 15 et seq., ill., 236, 237 Castello, Colle del (Passo Luranj), I 5 Ca1nerozzo, Pizzo, 17 Cengalo, Pizzo : by E. ridge : at- Cammai, Piz : ascent, 243 telnpt, 16 Canadian Rockies Cessole, Victor de : obit., 207 Adventures with a grizzly bear, 71 Chakrata Caves (Garhwal Foothills) 1\lcove : first winter ascent, 40 ; explored, 175 tr., 42 Chomo Yumo : second ascent, 427 Anchorite : ascent, 40 Clapham, J. H . : obit. and port., 41 9 Andromeda : ascent, 39 ; Andro­ Clarke, A. E. : obit., E. H . Stevens, meda-Athabaska, tr., 43 299 Athabaska : ascent, 68 ; tr., 39 ; Classification of rock climbs, 37 r ; Athabaska Glacier : ca1nping Grades, comparison of, 372 ; in snow holes, 38 ; Rescue Conclusions, 373 fro1n a crevasse, 349 Club Alpin Academique de Geneve Balfour : ascent, 67 and the O.U.M.C. ; M eet , Bennington: atte1npt on, 42 413 etseq. Brussels : attempt on, 38 Club A1pino Italiano : Greetings, Collier : ascent, 69 426; Paduasection,368 Columbia : first winter ascent, 39 ; Col de la Dent Blanche : crossing of, • N . Coronet Pass, first crossing on 322 ski, 35 .. Col du : first crossing by Do1ne 2 : ascent, 43 H. B. George with Altner Edith : ascent, 358 and Anderegg, 249 Fauna, 71 Coleridge, Samuel T., and Mont Field : ascent, 67 Blanc, 3 I 5 Flight over the C. R ., 350 Corlett, W. E ., and others : obit., Fraser Glacier : skiing on, 37 M . K. Sn1ith, 298 Huts, 36 Cornish Cliffs : Accidents during · Isolated Peak : ascent> 67 Warfare training, 347 I<.err : ascent, 68 Louis : ascent, 70 McDonnell : ascents, 38, 41 DANGAR, D. F . 0. : Marpole: ascent, 67 and , Mitre, The : ascent, 69 249 et seq. ; Col de la Dent Mountain Warfare Training in the, Blanche, note, 322 ; Note 348, ills., 32- 33 on first ascent of Monte National Parks, 71 Rosa, 224 Outpost : ascent, 38 Davidson, Sir Edward, 393, 395 Paradise : ascent, 69 Dent Blanche : first British guideless Paradise Valley : A.C. Camp in, 69 tr., 282 Paragon: avalanches and incident D ent, Clinton, 4 on, 41 ; attempts, 42 Dent de Jaman : ascents, 390 2G2 444 INDEX

Desborough, Lord : death of, too Finzi, N.S. : The Bregaglia, I I et Devies, Lucien and M. Laloue : seq. ; Krahenbuhl's ascent Guide du Massif des Ecrins, of Wetterhorn, N. face, 428 435 Firmin, Arthur H. : The first ascent Disgrazia, Monte : first and other of the S. face of Mt. Kenya, • ascents, r 7 ; first direct 400 et seq., port., 8 I ascent of N. face, 13 ; ills., First Aid Committee, I I I 8- 9 Fischer, E. : first descent of Siidlenz­ Dittert, Rene : book, Passion des spitze by N.E. face, 103 H autes Cirnes , 3 2 6 Fitzgcrald, Gerald, 58 Dolomites : ascents, 279 ; · Col Nudo, FitzGibbon, M. R. : The Ryan­ ascent, r62 ; Focobon Lochmatter arete of the

• Group, climbing in the, Aig. du Plan, 164 et seq . 160; Le Vette, Three Foa, Edgar : obit., 84 nights on, IS8 Focobon Group (Dolomites) : Climb- Dom: A. W. Moore's ascent, 251 ing in the, r6o et seq. Fontaine, M . Emile : death of, 3 I6 Dom and Nadelgrat : ill., 8-9 Forbes, J. W. F. : obit., 303 Douglas-Hamilton, Lord Malcoln1 : Forno Glacier : skiing on, I 2 ; A.T.C. Training in the (Swiss), 13 Cairngorms, 3 9 5 et seq . Forno, Monte del, 13 Dru, Gr. and Petit : tr., 282 Fothergill, E. L . : Note on Mountain Duff, D. G. : Note on Mountain Rescue, 197 Rescue, 196 Fox, Joseph I-I.: and family, 135 et Dummett, G. A. : obit., R. C. G . seq. Moggridge, 424 ; Seven Frei, Hans : second ascent of Ago Vievvs of Mont Blanc, I 2 r di T orrone, I 5 ; _as cents in et seq. the Bregaglia, I 2 Friedmann, Louis : Strahlhorn- EBNEFLUH : ascent by N. ridge and Adlerhom tr., 390 first descent by N. W. ridge, Frith, Brian: obit., L. Penrice Penny, I03 303 Egger, Carl : book, Pioniere der Alpen, 290; rev., 33I ; On the spelling of names, An­ GAILLARD, E. : obit., Victor de denmatten and Benet, 427 Ce·ssole, 207 ; Rene Gode­ : ascent by Mittellegi arete, 355 froy, 208 Eiger Glacier : first ascent and cross­ Gait,]. C. : obit., 210 ing, 59 et seq. ; first trav­ Galla, Il: I 8 ' ellers on, 58 Gangotri Group : ill., 184 Eigerjoch, The : first ascent, 55 et seq. G en eve, Vue de : ill., frontispiece Elliott, C. A. : obit., Sir T. Fowell Glacier Flea : ill., 360 Buxton, Bt., 30I Glaciers : The vertical retardatio~ of Ellis, William H. : obit., 208; port., the ice of, 271 et seq., chart, 210 272, Elmslie, W. T. : obit., 86 ; port., 88 G letscherhorn : ascent by N. face, Engel, C. E. : Alpine Archives at 313 Ried, 261 et seq. ; Ruskin Glover, G. T., 279 and Dr. Melchior Ulrich, Godefroy, Rene : obit., 208 320; Horace Walker, 102 Goodfellow, Basil R. : Indian Leave, Esquilant, Pat : fatal accident, 414 373 et seq. ; Notes on Etna, Mount : attempt from Ran­ Nandakna (Garhwal) 1944, dazzo, 364 202 et seq. Everest, Mount : Projected expedi- Gos, Charles : Academie Fran9aise • t1on,• 314 award 1946, 425; book, L ' Epopee Alpestre, I 12 ; FIESCHERHORNER, Gross and Hinter: obit., Josef Pollinger, 309 tr., 352 Gran Sasso, Corno Piccolo : ill., : ascent, 245 ; tr. by 368 ; Mountain Warfare S.E. ridge, 282 Training School, 364, 367 INDBX 445 Greene, Raymond : The Greene Guides cont. Carrier, 201 ; ill., 201-203 ; first ascent of S. ridge of Piz Mountain Rescue : Stretch­ Bacone, I5 ; Stager, Fritz : Ebne­ ers, 20 et seq. fluh, first descent by N.W. ridge, Greenwood, A. M. : obit., E. H. L. I03 ; Supersaxo, Oscar : obit., Wigram, 304 99 ; Taugwalder and the Matter­ Greenwood, Eric, 282 horn, 290 et seq. ; Tournier, Grepon : tr., 282 Camille : ascent of Aig. du Plan, Grivel (blacksmith) of : 165 et seq., port., I7I ; Zurbriggen, death of, 426 H einrich : Sudlenzspitze, first Grunne, Con'lte de : death of, I 20 descent of N.E. face, 103 Gspaltenhorn : descent by W. arete, Gwaldam, Himalayan rest house, I 313 378 • Guggi Glacier : first travellers on the, s8 Guides : Almer, Christian and Mel­ HACKETT, Arthur: obit., 89; port., chior Anderegg : their association 88 in climbs, 249 et seq.; Almer, Peter: H all, Henry, jun. : Climbing in attempts on Ago di Torrone, I4, Canadian Rocki es, 69-7 I I 5 ; Anderegg, J akob, 4 ; Ander­ Hannibal's crossing of the , matten, Franz, 4, 5 ; Antonelli, 405 365 ; Balmat, Leon: death of, Hanuman Peak (Central l-Iimalaya) : 226; Biner, Franz, IS, I6, I8, I9; ascent, 185 Biner, Franz Jose£: climbs in the Harle, 1-Ienri : obit., 297 Bregaglia, I 4, I 5 ; Biner, J osef, I 5 ; l-larper, A. P. : book, 1Vle rnories of Bozon, Marcel : appointment, 225 ; Mountains and M en, 440 ; Burgener, Alexander, 2, death of, Letter re Federation of • 3, tr. of Rothorn, 4 ; Mischabel, 6 ; Clubs in N.Z., 221 Burgener, Christian : death of, Harris, B. K. : Youth and the Hills, 225 ; Charlet, Armand : Aig. 145 et seq. d'Argentiere, first ascent by S.S.W. Haskett-Smith, W. P.: obit., 4I6; ridge, and 47th ascent of Aig. port., 418 Verte, Io8, President Hey, Wilson H. : Note on Mountain Guides' Society, 226 ; Charlet, Rescue, 190 Michel, and Croz, Michel : first Hicks, P. H. : Mount Kenya, first crossing of Eigerjoch, 56 et seq; ascent of N. face, 76 et seq., Feuz, Edward : ascent of Mt. port., 81 , · Victoria, 66, avalanche experiences, Hinks, A. R. : obit., 216 65 ; Georges, Joseph : ascent of I-Iodgkinson, D. A. : Pigne d' Arolla Aig. du Plan, I 64 et seq. ; Imboden, by N. face, ascent, 429

Christen : Ebnefluh, first descent Howard, G. E. : A 1\tlountaineering • by N.W. ridge, I03 ; Imseng, Family, 134 et seq. Ferdinand, 4 ; Knubel, J osef: Howard, }. W. : A few days on climbs with G. Graham Macphee, Mount Kenya, 284 et seq. 352, Monch, ascent of N. face, I03 ; How ard, John : first ascent of S. Lauener, J ohann : death of, 57 ; face of Mount ~enya, 401 ~auener, Ulrich and Leslie Stephen, et seq. 57, first crossing of Eigerjoch, 6o ; H uhnerstock : ascent, 244 Lochmatter, Hennann : Monch, Hurst, L. H. : Note on expedition to ascent of N. face of, I03 ; l\1ooser, Ala Dag, 1945, 222 Kaspar, 3 I 6 ; Pinggera, Hans Huts : Adula, 242 ; Allievi, easy Sepp, 390 ; Pollinger Alois, II, route to, 15 ; Concordia, 352, 353 ; 389 ; death of, 225 ; obit., 307, Coston, 357 ; Forno, 13 ; Gian­ port., 392 ; Taschhorn-Dom tr., etta, climbs from, 16, 19 ; Kien, 39I ; Pollinger, Josef: obit., 391, 393 ; Lauteraar, 244 ; Lenta, 309 ; Taschhorn-Dom tr., 391, 243 ; Mittellegi, at the, 354 ; 393, 395 ; Prern Singh, 380 ; lVIountet, a week at the, 414; Ravanel, Gilbert, Jean and Rene : Ponti, 17 ; Silberhorn, 36I ; Strah-­ death of, 226 ; Savoye, Cyprien : legg, 245, 354 ; Torino, destroyed, death of, 323 ; Schaller, Adolf : I 02 ; Zapport,.. 243 ' • INDEX I lMBODEN, Roman : Fuhrerbuch, 426 Lloyd, Peter : rev., The Delectable Insects found on Mountains : Their Mountains (Busk), 430 nature, 357 et seq., ill., 360 Lloyd, R. W. : obit., Alois Pal­ Irving, Graham : tr. of Zinal linger II, 309

• Rothorn, 2, 4, 5 Longstaff, T. G. : obit., Arthur R .

Irving, R. L. G. : rev., Mountain Rinks, 216 I • Holidays (Smith), 324 Lotschental : In Upper : ill. _, 261 l Lunghin, Piz, I 3 Lunn, Arnold : Coleridge and Mont J AMNOTRI, visit to, I76 I Blanc, 3 I 5 : rev., Guide du J ebel El Skirra by the vV. buttress, 363 Skieur dans les Alpes V alai­ ebel Reccas by the E. buttress, 3 63 ) J sannes (Kurz), 335 ; Swit­ Jenkins, J. R. : rev., Mountain zerland revisited, 226 ; Photography (Milner), 3 3 5 Taugwalder and the Matter­ J oyce,_ B. : In the Dolomites -vvith '.j J. horn, 290 et seq. an Orientalist, 362 et seq. Lyskamm : tr., 283 Jungfrau ascents: 247, 248; by N. face, 3 I 3 ; by Silberhorn , route, 361 MACKINDER, Sir Halford : first ascent 400 _ of Mt. Kenya, II l(AI.LAS, approach to, 316 et seq. Mcl{inley, Mt. : Flight round, 351 Kashmir: Recreational centre in, Macphee, G. Graham : Adula and Oberland : Personal Retnin- 74 et seq. • I 1 l{ausani, Himalayan viewpoint, 377 1scences, 240 et seq., 352 et I I{enya, Mount seq . -ascent, 286, ill., 8o-I, 404, 405 MacRobert, Harry : 282 ; obit., attempt on Batian, 286 R. A. Brown, 306 I1 attempt on Nelion, 285 1\llargna, Piz della, 12 \ first ascent of N. face, 76 et seq. Marmolata : variation on S. wall, 14 first ascent of S. face, 400 et seq. Marriott, E. H. : obit., P. R. Oliver, l{ugy, Julius : book, A us vergan­ 2I4 gener Zeit, 333 ; port., 334 Masino-Bagni : Thermal station, I 6 Kurz, Marcel: books, Guide du Mathews, G. S ., and William: Eiger­ Skieur dans les Alpes ·valai­ joch, 55 et seq. · sannes, Vols. I & II, 335 I first ascent and accident, 290 et seq. • unrecorded ascent of N. face, 102 LAGREV, Piz, 12 Meade, C. F. : rev., Karakorarn Lama Anden, 374; ascent, 375 Hinzalaya (Roch), 330 Largo, Cima del : ascent, I 5 lVIeade-King, M. G. : Mt. Olympus, Lauteraarhorn : tr., 354 269 I La Vergine : ascent, 18 Meije : tr., 283 l Lawrence, Thomas : and S-vvitzer­ Milner, Douglas : book, Mountain I land. Problem of motive, Photography, 335 ; rev., 4II P eak Panorama (Pouch er), Lehmann, C. T. : obit., W. H. Ellis, 436 208 Milton, John : His itinerary fro1n Lepiney, Jacques de : Les Aiguilles Italy, 407 Rouges, 435 Mischa bel, 5 I Le Vette (Dolomites) : 1'hree nights Mitre Ridge, Cairngorms, 239 • On, I 58 Moggridge, R. C. G. : obit. and I.~ey den, A. R. : Bandar Punch po' rt., 423 Reconnaissance, 173 et seq. Monch : ascents, 247 ; by N. face, Ligoncio, Pizzo : an easy climb, I 6 103 Ling, \V. N. : The Years Bet\veen : Hotel : Club Room at, 5 Days to Remember, 279 et Moor e, A. W. : ascent of Dom, 25 I seq. et seq. Liszt, Franz : Visit to Chamonix, 127 Morrish, R. 8. : obits., Edgar Foa, Lloyd, J. C. : R.A.F. l\1ountain 84 ; J. W. F. Forbes, 303 ; Rescue Service, 24 et seq. J. C. Gait, 210 INDEX 447 Mountain Rescue in War and Peace : Peacocke, T. A. H. : The A.C. in First Aid Committee, R.A.F. Italy, 224 ; · Pigne d' Arolla, Rescue Service, Stretchers, by N. face, 429 ; Training 20 et seq. ; Additional Notes, in the Canadian Rockies, 189 et seq. ; ills., 200-1 32 et seq. Mountain Warfare Training : Some Peak 17,174 ft. (Kashmir): ascent, Experiences in, 233 et seq., 74; attempt on Peak, 17,871 345 et seq. ; ills., 236, 237 ft., 75 Mountaineering in Winter, Problen1s Peak District National Park Appeal, of, 155 342 IVIountaineering Philosophy and solo Peck, E. H. : Expedition to the Ala climbing, 277 Dag 1944, 45 et seq., ills., Muretto Glacier : accident in 1706 : 48-9, 52, 53 , Unsolved identity of victim, Peigne, Aig. du : ascent, 358 408-9 Penny, L. Penrice : obit., 303 Peteret, Col de : first ascent by i Brenva flank, I 03 NANDA Ghunti, 376 ; attempted, Petrarch's Journeys through Switzer- 382 ; ills., 376, 377 . land, 406, 407 National Parks Standing Committee, Pfannl, H einrich, 390 Ill Pigne d 'Arolla : ascent by N. face, 429 Nesthorn-Bietschhorn Hotel at Ried: Pigott, .A. S. : First Aid Committee ·Guest Books, 261 et seq. of Mountaineering Clubs, New Zealand : Federation of Clubs • , 28 et seq.; obit., F. B . lll, 221 Dutton Walker, 94 Noelting, F. A. M. : obit., Oscar Pigou, A. C. : obit., ]. H. Clapham, Supersaxo, 99 419 Noyce, C. W. F. : A Clin1bers' Guide Pinotti, Professor : President Padua to Sonamarg, 225 ; An Air­ Section, C.A.I., 367, 368 crew Mountain Centre in Pioda di Sciora, Punta : ascent, 17 Kashmir, 74 et seq., Note on Pitons : Use of, 371 Expedition to Sikkin1, 323 Plan, Aig. du : Ryan-Lochmatter Nudo, Col : (Dolomites), ascent, I62 . ascent, 164 et seq., ills., 169 170, 171 0BERGABELHORN : tr., 414 Pollinger, Joseph : Filhrerbuch, 426 Odell, N. E. : Mountain Rescue, Poucher, W. A. : books : Lakeland . Note, 189 : obit., E .. A. M. Journey, 228 ; Peak Pano­ Wedderburn, 90 rama, 436 Qljver, P. R. : death of, 120; obit., Group, 357 2I2 ; port., 211 Pt~eservice Training Sub-comn1ittee, Olympus, Mt. : ascents, 269 et seq., IIO ills., 268-9 Priestman, Howard, 280 Orientalismo and Occidentalistno, Pullinger, F. A. : rev., Climbing in · The difference betvveen, 3 69 Britain (Barford}, 434 Qrtler Group, 357 Osterreichischer Alpenklub recon­ stituted, 426 RAEBURN, Harold : Climbs in Nor- Oughton, F. : Bibliography, 116, 229, way, 280 337, 437 ; Index, IOI ; Randa to Zinal : high level route, 8 obits., Henri Harle and r.r. A. Rasica, Punta : ascent, IS Rickman, 297 . Reade, W. R. : obit., 321 Rendall, G. H. : bequest, ro8 ; · obit., 82 PAIN DE SucRE, Mont Blanc, Aig. du H.heinwaldhorn : ascent, 242 Plan from Grepon, ill., I 68 Richards, I. A. : Climbs in Canadian Pasang: Sherpa Porter, 375, 376, Rockies, 67, 69, 71 380 ; testimonial, 383 Rickman, T. A. : obit., 297 Pauhunri, Sikkim : ascent, 323 Ried in Lotschental, 261 Paynter, T. C. ; Mountains under Rimpfischhorn : by the N. arete, 393, deep snow, I 53 et seq., 287 394 ; incident in ascent, 389 INDEX

Roberts, A. Carson : obit., 95 Shipton, E. E. : Ascent of Mt. Kenya, Roberts, E. E. : obit., J. J. Brigg, 400 ; first tr. of Mt. Kenya, 83 401 ; obit., Michael Spender, Rocco di N avarro, by the N. face : first 318 ascent, 363, 364 Side, A. D. : l\1ountain Rescue, note, Roch, Andre : book, Karakora1n 197 Himalaya, 330 Siegfried Map, Error in : 393 (f.n.) Rochers de N aye : landslide on and Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta : rare ascents, 390, 39I insects collected, 360 Roelfsema, E. J. : death of, Ioo Si1berhorn Ridge, ill., 361 Rolleston, L. W. : obit., C. S. Sissone, Monte : to Monte Dis- • • Ascherson, 298 grazta, 13 Rope : Belaying, 385 et seq., defini­ Ski : types of, I s6 ; boots, I 57 tion of terms in use of, 384 ; Skiing v. Mountaineering, 153, I 54 rope of red silk, 3 9 3 ; and Sleeman, C. M. : obit., W. T. its fate, 394 Ehnslie, 86 Rosa, Monte : Note on first ascent of, Slogen, ill., 281 224 ; tr., 284 Smith, Albert : on Mont Blanc, I 28 Rossi, Pizza dei, I 3 et seq. Rosso, Monte : an easy climb, I3 Smith, Janet Adan1 : book, ]\(fountain Rothorn from S., ill.,· 8 Holidays, 324 R.A.F., Mountain Rescue Service, Smith, M. K. : obit., 298; port., 297 24 et seq. S1nyth, A. J. M. : first -ascent of Rudolf, Marcus : Bregaglia clin1bs, 14 Lama Anden, 375 .. Ruskin, John, 320 S1nythe, F. S. : obits., P. R. Oliver, · Russell, R. Scott : Geneva and 212; E. A. M. Wedderburn, O.U.M.C. Meet, 413 et 9 3 ; Some Experiences in seq. Mountain Warfare Training, Ruwenzori : Mts. Stanley and Speke, 233 et seq., 345, et seq., ills., . 257, 258 ; ill., z6o ; The 236-7 Portal Peaks : Kihuma, as­ Spelterini, Capt., 282 cent, 261 Spencer, Sydney : rev., L'Epopee • Alpestre (Gos), I 12 . Spender, Michael: obit., 318. So1nervell, T. H. : rev., When Men SALT, George : Things by the way, and 1\;fountains Meet (Til­ 356 et seq. man), 431 Sand, George : visit to Chamonix, Stephen, l.~eslie : Eigerjoch, 56 et seq. ; 127 tr. of Zinal Rothorn, 2, 4 Sang, George : ten peaks in sixteen Stevens, E. H. : The ver.tical retarda­ days, 282 tion Qf the ice of Glaciers, de Saussure, H. B. : Voyages clans 271 et seq. ; chart, 272 ; les Alpes, 124-6 obit., 299 ; port., 296 Scafell : ascent by Slingsby's Chim­ Stilicho, Flavius : Expedition to the ney, 361 Grisons, 406 Scheuchzerhorn, 245 Strahlhorn-Adlerhorn tr., 390 Schreckhorn : ascents, 245 ; by the Strutt, E. L. : Days of little satisfac­ S.W. ridge, 353 ; tr. and tion, 389 et seq. ; Grtest of first descent by S.W. ridge, Schv;eizerische Stiftung fUr 282 Alpine Forschungen, 425 ; Sciora, Ago di, I 7 obits., Alois Pollinger, 307 ; Sciora di dentro, 17 E. H. Stevens, 300 Sciora Group, ill., 9 Si.idlenzspitze : first descent by N .E. Seligman, Gerald : More about , face, 103 Mountains under Snovv, 287 Switzerland: Climbs in 1945, 219 et seq. • et seq. Senger, Max : book, Wie die Schwei­ zer Alpen erobert wurden, 332 Seymour, H. F. : death of, 120 T ASCHHORN : ascent by S. face, 4 ; Shelley, P. B.: on lV[ont Blanc, 133 Teufelsgrat, 6

\ INDEX 449 . Taschhorn-Don1, tr., 6, 7 ; at- WALES, North : new clin1bs and tempted tr. from the l(ien methods, 388 hut, 391 ; 393 (f.n.) Walker, F. B. Dutton : obit., 94 Taurus Mountains : expedition to, Walker, Horace, 102 1944, 45 et seq. ; ills., 48-g, Wailer, H. : obit., Olaf Bloch, g8 52, 53 Wedderburn, E. A. 1\II. : obit., go ; Thomas, Eustace : note on Mountain port., 89 Rescue, 192 Weisshorn : tr. by E. and N. ridges, 8 ,.filman, H. W : Bisitun (Iran), Welsh and Scottish Climbs : classifi­ 275 et seq. ; book, When cation, 363 Men and Mountains Meet, W engern Alp to Eggishorn : Mr. 431 ; Mt. Kenya, first tr., . Bunbury's journey, 57 40 r ; strange doings in the '1Vestn1orland, H. : War-time climbs Dolomites, I 58 et seq. in Canada, 65 et seq. Tilly, T. H. : second ascent of Chotno \Vetterhorn : N. face, 428 ; two new Yumo, 427 routes, 324 'Torrone, Ago del : first ascent, I 3 ; Wheeler, A. 0.: death of, roo, 120; ill.' 9 obit., 205 ; port., 206 rrorrone Orientale, 13, ill., 9 Wigram, E. H. L. : Note on Moun­ Trisul, ill., 376- 7 tain Rescue, 193 et seq. ; Trugberg, ascent, 352 obit., 304 ; port., 297 • Tscharner, Johann Baptist von : \Vithers, J. J ., 282 Poem on Bernina, 408 Wormald, P. : Bandar Punch recon­ 'fucker, H. Scott : death of, 120 naissance, 183 rruckett, F. F. : Original metnber N.Z.A.C., 429 Tuckett, Frank, 135 YouNG, G. Winthrop : obits., W . .P. Turnbull, H. W. : obit., R. C. G. Haskett-Smith, 416 ; A. Moggridge, 423 Carson Ro berts, 9 5 ; rev., rfyndale, H. E. G. : Second Thoughts, Passion des -Hautes Cimes I et seq. (Dittert), 326 rfyndall, John : on Mont Blanc, 126

UNIVERSITY of London, M .C., 316 ZINAL Rothorn : ascents, 414; by • E. face, 312; tr., 2; ill., 8 Zocca, Monte : ascent, I 6 VAZZEDA, Cima di: ascent, 13 Zi.ircher, Alfred : Monch : ascent of Visser, P. C. : Honours, 1 oo N. face, 25oth ascent, 103

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P-rinted in Engla1til at THE BALLANTYNE PREss SPOTTISWOODE, BALLANTYNE & Co. LTD ~ London &- Colchester • CONTENTS •

ALPINE AcciDENTS, I945 PAGE

Aiguille V erte . • • • • • • • • 226 Grepon • • • • • • • • • • 226 La Nonne • • • • • • • • • 226

ALPINE CLUB

Annual Report • • • • • • • • Io8

Dinners, Annual and Informal • • • I I8, I I9, I2o, 342 Gifts • • • • • • Io8 ~ 219, 426,427,430 .... Library • • • • • • • I I 6, 229, 337' 437 Meets • • • • • • • • I09, 2I7, 343 Members

Deaths • • • • • II8-I2o, 340- 343,440 Elections • • • • • • I r8, I I9, I2o, ·440

Hon. Members . • • • • • • • 426 • Honours • • • • • • • • • 215 Obituaries (see also IN MEMORIA M) roo, I I9, I20, 215, 297, 3I4, 425 Officers elected • • • • • • • I I8, 34I Pra,ceedings • • • • • • • 118, 340,440

A RTICLES, Original and Communicated, Notes, &c. Adula and Oberland : Personal Reminiscences. By G. Graham M acphee ...... 240, 352 Ala Dag, I944 : A further expedition to the. By E. H. Peck 45 Almer , Christian and Melchior Anderegg. By D. F. 0. Dangar ...... 249 Alpine Archives at Ried. By Claire-Eliane Engel . . . z6 I An Aircrew M ountain Centre in Kashmir. By C. W. f. N oyce ...... 74 Bandar Punch Reconnaissance· By A . R. Leyden . . I73 Bisitun (Iran). By H. W . Tilman . . . . . 275 Bregaglia, The. By N . S. Finzi . . . . . I I Cairngorms : A.T.C. Training in the. By Lord Malcolm Douglas-Hamilton ...... 39 5 • Canadian Rockies: Training in the. By T. A . H. Peacocke . 32 Days of little satisfaction. By E. L . St 1~utt . . . 389 Eigerjoch, The. By William Mathews . . . . 55 Geneva Oxford University Climbing M eet. By R. Scott Russell ...... 4 I 3 • V I CONTENTS

ARTICLES cont. PAGE Indian Leave. By Basil Goodfellow . . . • • 373 In the Dolomites with an Orientalist. By J. B. Joyce . • 362 I(enya, Mount. •

A few days on Mount Kenya. By J. W. H oward . • ~ I J First ascent of the North Face. By P. H. Hicks . •

First ascent of the South Face. By Arthur H. Firmin . • 400 Mountain Rescue in Peace and War : i. By Raymond Greene ...... 20

• ii. By J. C. Lloyd ...... 24 iii. By A. S. Pigott ...... 28 Mountaineering Family and other memories, A. By Geoffrey E. Howard ...... Mountains under deep snow . By T . C. Paynter . . . Mountains under snow, More about. By Gerald Seligman . Nandakna (Garhwal), Notes on, 1944. By B. R. Goodfellow . Olympus, Mount. By M. G. Meade-King . . . . Puzzles. By G. R. de Beer ...... Ruwenzori : Mounts Stanley and Speke. By R. M . Bere . Ryan-Lochmatter arete of the , The. By M a1'Y Rose fitzGibbon ...... I 64 Second Thoughts. By H. E. G. Tyndale . . . . I Seven Views· of Mont Blanc. By G. A. Dummett . . 121 Some Experiences in Mountain Warfare Training. ·By F. S. Smythe ...... 2 33, 345 Strange doings in the Dolomites. By H. W. Tilman . . I 58 Taugwalder and the lVIatterhorn. By Arnold Lunn . . 290 The use of the Rope in Rock Climbing. By J. E. Q. Barford . 384 The years between : Days to remember. By W. N . Ling . 279 Things by the way. By George Salt . . . . . 356 Vertical retardation of the ice of Glaciers, The. By E. H. Stevens ...... Wartime Climbs in Canada. By H. Westmorland . . Youth and the Hills. By B. K. Harris . . . .

CORRIGENDA • • • • •

EXPEDITIONS • • • • •

IN MEMORIAM • Ascherson, Charles Stephen • • • • • • 298

Bloch, Olaf • • • • • • • • • g8 Brigg, John Jeremy . • • • • • • • 83 Brown, Robert Arnold • • • • • • • 306 Buxton, Thornas Fowell • • • • • • • 30I de Cessole, Victor • • • • • • • • 207 Clapham, John Harold • • • • • • • 4I9 Ellis, William Henry • • • • • • • 208 • • CONTENTS Vll • IN MEMORIAM cont. PAGE

Elmslie, Willian1 T. . . . • • • • • 86

Foa, Edgar . . . . • • • • • 84 Forbes, John William Furse . • • • • 0 3°3 Gait, J. C. . . . . • • • • • 210

Godefroy, Rene . . . • • • • • 208

I-Iackett, Arthur . . . • • • • • 8g Harle, I-Ienri . . . . • • • • • 297 Haskett-Smith, Vvalter Parry . • • • • • 416

I-I inks, Arthur R. . . . • • • • • 216

lVIoggridge, Richard Cayley Giffard • • • • • 423

Oliver, P. R. . . . . • • • • • 212 Penny, Lewis Penrice . . • • • • • 3°3 Pollinger, Alois II . . . • • • • • 3°7 Pollinger, J osef . . . • • • • • 3°9 Rendall, Gerald Henry . . • • • • • 82 Rickman, Thomas Apsley . • • • • • 297 Roberts, A. Carson . . . • • • • • 95 Smith·, Marshall King . . • • • • • 298 Stevens, Ernest Hamilton . . • • • • • 299 Supersaxo, Oscar . : . • • • • • 99 Walker, F. B. Dutton . . • • • • • 94 Wedderburn, E. A. lVL . . • • • • • go

Wheeler, A. 0. . . . • • • • • 205 Wigram, Edmund Hugh Lewis . • • • • • 3°4

NOTES

Alpine . • • • 0 • • lOO, 215, 3 ~ 4,425

American • • • • • • . . . 215

Canadian • • • • • • . . . 3 I 6

French . • • • • • • • • 0 10!

Italian . . 0 • • • • • • 0 ros

New Zealand . • • • • • . . . 22 I

South African . • • • • • • • 0 224 ' Swiss . . 0 • • • • 103, 219, 223, 323

REVIEWS AND NOTICES . . . . I I2, 227, 324, 430 Aus vergangener Zeit (Kugy) ...... 333 British Ski Year Book, I 944 . . . . , . . I I 5 Climbing in Britain (Barford) ...... 434 Delectable Mountains, The (Busk) . . . . . 430 Escape to Switzerland (de Beer) . . . . . 227 Guide du Massif des Ecrins (Devies et Laloue) . . . 435 Guide du Skieur clans les AI pes ·valaisannes (Kurz) . . 335 Karakoram I-Iimalaya (Roch) ...... 330 l{omm mit mir ins Wallis (Schmid) . . . . . 333 Lakeland Journey (Poucher) ...... 228 Les Aiguilles Rouges (Lepiney) ...... 4 3 5

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• R EVIEWS AND NOTICES cont. PAGE

L'Epopee Alpestre (Gos) • • • • • • 112 Mountain Holidays (Smith) • • • • • • 324 Mountain Photography (Milner) • • • • • 335 • I Passion des Hautes Cimes (Dittert) • • • • • 326 Peak Panorama : Kinder Scout to Dovedale (Poucher) . • 436 Pioniere der Alp en (Egger) • • • • • • 331 When Men and Mountains meet Cfilman) • • • • 431 Wie die Schweizer Alpen erobert wurden fSenger) • • 332 •

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• INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PORTRAITS, AND MAPS

ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE

A.T.C. Climbing Party approaching Corrie an-t-Sneachda • 396 Bandar Punch ' Summit of . . • • • • • • • 182

View S.E. from ridge • • • • • • • 184 Cairngorm Gully, A . • • • • • • • 397 Cairngorms, Snow Work • • • • • • • 397 Canadian Rockies Asteria Valley from the start of the Pony Trail . . . 32 Eremite Glacier. Angle in centre, Alert on right . 32-33 Lower Athabaska Glacier, with Andromeda behind . 32- 33 McDonnell and Bennington from Outpost . . . 32-33 On the way to the Tonquin Camp . . . . . 32 Outpost, Climbing the ice wall on . . . . 32-33 from Tonquin Camp ...... 32- 33 Ramparts, The ; Paragon and Oubliette from Outpost . 32-33 Disgrazia, Monte, from Torrone Orientale . . . .. 8- 9 Dom and Nadelgrat from E. ridge of Weisshorn . . . 8- 9 Gangotri Group with Hanuman Peak in foreground. . . 184 Geneve, Vue de, prise du petit Saconex Frontispiece Glacier Flea, and Glacier Fleas on Snow, Appearance of . . 360 Gran Sasso, Corno Piccolo ...... 368 Greene Carrier, The ...... 20 I - 203 Insects found on the Sulden Glacier . . . . . 360 Instruction in use of Ice-Axe ...... 396 Instructions at Ogwen...... 2 3 6 In Upper Lotschental ...... z6 r

Koller Stretcher, The . . . . ' . . • • 200 Mount Kenya Bivouac Camp, early morning . . . . • • 4°5 Bivouac Site, The ...... • • 8r Main Peak from the S...... • • 404 North Face and West Ridge from Sendeyo . . • • 8o South Face taken from Point John . . . • • 4°5 Mountain Rescue. One man lifting and lowering . • • 200 Nanda Ghunti Evening at Base Camp below Nanda Ghunti • • • 377

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X INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PORTRAITS, AND MAPS

PAGE Nanda Ghunti cont.

From Gwaldam . . . . . • • 376-377 Pindar Valley with Nanda Ghunti and rfrisul • • 376-377 • Upper N andagini and Trisul . . . • • . 376 Olympus, Mount Stefani (2909 m.) and Mitika (2917 m.) from Skolion (291 I m.) 268 Summits ...... 269 Patrol under Ben a' Bhuird ...... 237 Pain de Sucre, Mont Blanc, Aig. du Plan, Crocodile, frorn • Grepon ...... I 68 Plan, Aiguille du Chimney ...... 171 Chimney above steep wall ...... 170 Joseph Georges on the E. arete of . . . . . 169 Steep slab in lower portion ...... 169 Three cornered crack ...... 170 Rothorn from S...... 8 Ruwenzori: N .E. Ridge of Margherita and E. Glacier fron1 Scott Elliott Pass ...... z6o . Sciora Group ...... 9 Sea Cliff Climbing : Assault Landing instruction on Black .Rocks near Criccieth ...... Silberhorn Ridge, towards the J ungfrau . . . . Skiing near the Devil's Elbow, Braemar . . . . Slogen ...... Stavroitia, In: en route to Bara. Summits of Oly1npus, L. toR. : Skala, Mitika, P. Ilias and Kalaia . . . . . 269 1""' aurus Massif Kaldi Dag and Ludut Dag ...... 52 Klagenfurter Turm frotn S...... 48 Kunnegipfel from the S...... 48--49 Paschingerberg from the Hinge . . . . . 48-49 Taurus Main Range and Ludut Dag from summit of Kaldi Dag ...... · · · · 53 Unknown Peak seen from Paschingerberg Klinnegipfel Ridge 48-49 Torrone Orientale and Ago ...... 9

PORTRAI'fS

Clapham, Sir John H .. • • • • • • • 4 19 Ellis, Sir William H. • • • • • • • • 210

Elmslie, W. T. • • • • • • • • • 88

Firmin, A. I-I., on Batian • • • • • • • 81 Group: Morshead, Perren, Moore, George, Stephenson,

• • • • • • Anderegg, Macdonald, Almer • 252 \ Hackett, Arthur • • • • • • • • • 88

Haskett-Smith, W. P. • • • • • • • • 418

• • INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PORTRAITS, AND MAPS Xl

• PAGE

I--Iicks, P . H., on Batian • • • • • • • 8r Kugy, Dr. Julius . • • • • • • • • 334 Moggridge, R. C. G. • • • • • • • • 423 Oliver, P. R. • • • • • • • • • 21! Pollinger, Alois II, at St. Niklaus, 1937 • • • • 392 Smith, M. K . • • • • .. • • • • 297 4( Stevens, E . H. • • • • • • • • • 296 Wedderburn, E. A. M. • • • • • • • 89 Wheeler, A. 0. • • • • • • • • 206 Wigram, E. H. L. • • • • • • • • 297

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SKErfCH MAPS I

Alpago district (Dpl<)mites) . • • • • • • r6r

Bandar Punch . . . • • • • • • 178

CHART

The Vertical Retardation of the ice of Glaciers . • • • 272

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