• THE ALPINE .JOURNAL Vol. 55, Nos. 270, 271, 272 and 273 • • • • • • • THE • A RECORD OF ' MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE AND SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATION BY MEMBERS OF THE ALPINE CLUB' VOLUME 55 (NOS. 270, 271, 272 AND 273) 1945- 1946 . I • EDITED BY H. E. G. TYNDALE • • , I PUBLISHED BY THE ALPINE CIJUB 74 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET, LONDON, W .. 1 1945-1946 • INDEX Vol. 55, Nos. 270, 271, 272 and 273 • • • VOL. LV. NO. CCLXXIII. 2G • • INDEX CoMPILED BY F. OUGHTON, AssiSTANT LIBRARIAN. AGASSIZHORN : ascent, 353 Bandar Punch (Central Himalaya) : Aiguille d'Argentiere: tr., 281 Reconnaissance and at­ ...t\iguill e Noire de Peteret : solo ascent, tempts on, 173 et seq. ; 241 ills., 182, 184 Aiguilles Rouges du Dolent : ascent, Barford, J. E. Q. : book, Clinzbing in of highest point, 28 I B1~i tain, 434 ; revs., Guide Aitchison, I. G. : rev., British Ski du Massif des Ecrins (Devies Year Book, I I 5 et L aloue), L es Aiguilles Ala Dag : Note on I945 expedition, Rouges (Lepiney), 435 ; The 222 (see also TAURUS MASSIF) use of the Rope in Rock Albigna Glacier : 12, I6, 17 Climbing, 384 et seq. Aletschhorn by the Hasler rib : ascent, Barrow, Waiter : obit., Arthur . 353 ~ Hackett, 89 Allalinhorn from Zermatt, 3 9 I Bartrum, G. L. : obit., W. R. Reade, Alpago District (Dolomites) : m ap, 321 . 161 de Beer, G. R. : book, Escape to ALPINE CLUB ' ' ' S witzerland, 2.27 ; Puzzles, History of, 110 405 et seq. In Italy, 225 Ben a' Bhuird, Cairngorms, 239 Meet, 217 Bere, R. M. : Ruwenzori, Mounts Alpine Fauna (insects), 357 et seq. Stanley and Speke, 257 et seq . ALPINE }OURNAL, 109 Benet, J, }., 427 Alpine Museum at Sion, 103 Bisitun (Iran) : ascent, 275 et seq. American Alpine Club, Message of Blakeney, T. S. : Approach to condolence, 215 l{ ailas, 3 r6 et seq. ; A American Equipment, 348, 366 Rival to Mount Everest, 320 Amery, L. S. : obit., A. 0. Wheeler, Blanc, Mont : Accident in 1792, 205 identity of party, 409 ; Amrao Singh: a remarkable charac- Proprietary rights, 426 ; ter, 379 Seven Views of: (Paper), Andenmatten, Franz, 427 121 et seq. ; tr., 283 Anzevui, Jean : death of, 427 Bloch, Olaf : obit., 98 • Apennines, From the, 105 Bobi Arsandaux Refuge Bivouac, Arctic Rescue Training Centre, 350 r66, 167 Ascherson, C. S. : obit., i98 Booth, H. : A. C . Meet in N. Wales, A.T.C. Mountain Training Courses : 217 ; rev., L akeland Jour­ Syllabus and instructors, ney (Poucher), 228 398 Bot Kulan Gani Pass (Kashmir), 74 Auldjo, John : ascent of Mont Blanc, Bowen, H. C., 282 122- 124 Bregaglia : Guide Books, 12 ; Paper, II Breithorn (Zermatter) : ascent, 10 BACONE, Piz : first ascent, by S. ridge, Brigg, J. J. : obit., 83 IS British Mountaineering Council : Badile, Pizzo : by the ·W. ridge, r6 ; Constitution and Statutes, Adventure on, I 8 r 87 ; Discussion re, I 19- Baker, G. P., 316 120 ; Note, I I I Baker, W. M.: Accident on ascent of British Ski Y ear Book : rev., 1 r 5 Rimpfischhorn, 389 Brooks, Eric (President A. C. Canada): Balfour, Lord : death of, 103 ascent of Mt. Louis, 70 I ' INDEX 443 Brown, R. A. : obit., 306 Canadian Rockies cont. Bruyn, I. de : Letters from Swi tzer­ Pinnacle : ascent, 67 land, 219-221, 223 President : ascent, 67 Bullock, G. H., 2, 4, 7 Robson: flight round summit, 44 Bullock, H. D. : From the Apennines, Snow Dome : ascent, 43 ; ski 105 ascent, 349 Busk, Douglas : book, The Delectable Tekarra : ascent in a blizzard, 66 Mountains, 430 Temple : ascent, 69 BtL'Cton, Sir T. Fowell : obit., 301 Thunderbolt : ascent on ski, 40 Byron, Lord, on Mont Blanc, 133 Victoria : ascent, 6 5 Wilcox : ascent, 67 Whyte : ascent, 67 CAIMAN from Envers de Blaitiere: Capel Curig : Mountain Warfare first ascent, 169 Training at, 346 Cairngonns : courses for A. T. C. Caroline of Brunswick's SvJiss Jour­ • Cadets, 395 et seq.; ills., ney : problem of motive in 396, 397 ; Mountain War­ description of, 41 I , 412 fare Training in the, 235 Castello, Ci1na di, 15 et seq., ill., 236, 237 Castello, Colle del (Passo Luranj), I 5 Ca1nerozzo, Pizzo, 17 Cengalo, Pizzo : by E. ridge : at- Cammai, Piz : ascent, 243 telnpt, 16 Canadian Rockies Cessole, Victor de : obit., 207 Adventures with a grizzly bear, 71 Chakrata Caves (Garhwal Foothills) 1\lcove : first winter ascent, 40 ; explored, 175 tr., 42 Chomo Yumo : second ascent, 427 Anchorite : ascent, 40 Clapham, J. H . : obit. and port., 41 9 Andromeda : ascent, 39 ; Andro­ Clarke, A. E. : obit., E. H . Stevens, meda-Athabaska, tr., 43 299 Athabaska : ascent, 68 ; tr., 39 ; Classification of rock climbs, 37 r ; Athabaska Glacier : ca1nping Grades, comparison of, 372 ; in snow holes, 38 ; Rescue Conclusions, 373 fro1n a crevasse, 349 Club Alpin Academique de Geneve Balfour : ascent, 67 and the O.U.M.C. ; M eet , Bennington: atte1npt on, 42 413 etseq. Brussels : attempt on, 38 Club A1pino Italiano : Greetings, Collier : ascent, 69 426; Paduasection,368 Columbia : first winter ascent, 39 ; Col de la Dent Blanche : crossing of, • N . Coronet Pass, first crossing on 322 ski, 35 .. Col du Tour Noir : first crossing by Do1ne 2 : ascent, 43 H. B. George with Altner Edith : ascent, 358 and Anderegg, 249 Fauna, 71 Coleridge, Samuel T., and Mont Field : ascent, 67 Blanc, 3 I 5 Flight over the C. R ., 350 Corlett, W. E ., and others : obit., Fraser Glacier : skiing on, 37 M . K. Sn1ith, 298 Huts, 36 Cornish Cliffs : Accidents during · Isolated Peak : ascent> 67 Warfare training, 347 I<.err : ascent, 68 Louis : ascent, 70 McDonnell : ascents, 38, 41 DANGAR, D. F . 0. : Christian Almer Marpole: ascent, 67 and Melchior Anderegg, Mitre, The : ascent, 69 249 et seq. ; Col de la Dent Mountain Warfare Training in the, Blanche, note, 322 ; Note 348, ills., 32- 33 on first ascent of Monte National Parks, 71 Rosa, 224 Outpost : ascent, 38 Davidson, Sir Edward, 393, 395 Paradise : ascent, 69 Dent Blanche : first British guideless Paradise Valley : A.C. Camp in, 69 tr., 282 Paragon: avalanches and incident D ent, Clinton, 4 on, 41 ; attempts, 42 Dent de Jaman : ascents, 390 2G2 444 INDEX Desborough, Lord : death of, too Finzi, N.S. : The Bregaglia, I I et Devies, Lucien and M. Laloue : seq. ; Krahenbuhl's ascent Guide du Massif des Ecrins, of Wetterhorn, N. face, 428 435 Firmin, Arthur H. : The first ascent Disgrazia, Monte : first and other of the S. face of Mt. Kenya, • ascents, r 7 ; first direct 400 et seq., port., 8 I ascent of N. face, 13 ; ills., First Aid Committee, I I I 8- 9 Fischer, E. : first descent of Siidlenz­ Dittert, Rene : book, Passion des spitze by N.E. face, 103 H autes Cirnes , 3 2 6 Fitzgcrald, Gerald, 58 Dolomites : ascents, 279 ; · Col Nudo, FitzGibbon, M. R. : The Ryan­ ascent, r62 ; Focobon Lochmatter arete of the • Group, climbing in the, Aig. du Plan, 164 et seq . 160; Le Vette, Three Foa, Edgar : obit., 84 nights on, IS8 Focobon Group (Dolomites) : Climb- Dom: A. W. Moore's ascent, 251 ing in the, r6o et seq. Fontaine, M . Emile : death of, 3 I6 Dom and Nadelgrat : ill., 8-9 Forbes, J. W. F. : obit., 303 Douglas-Hamilton, Lord Malcoln1 : Forno Glacier : skiing on, I 2 ; A.T.C. Training in the (Swiss), 13 Cairngorms, 3 9 5 et seq . Forno, Monte del, 13 Dru, Gr. and Petit : tr., 282 Fothergill, E. L . : Note on Mountain Duff, D. G. : Note on Mountain Rescue, 197 Rescue, 196 Fox, Joseph I-I.: and family, 135 et Dummett, G. A. : obit., R. C. G . seq. Moggridge, 424 ; Seven Frei, Hans : second ascent of Ago Vievvs of Mont Blanc, I 2 r di T orrone, I 5 ; _as cents in et seq. the Bregaglia, I 2 Friedmann, Louis : Strahlhorn- EBNEFLUH : ascent by N. ridge and Adlerhom tr., 390 first descent by N. W. ridge, Frith, Brian: obit., L. Penrice Penny, I03 303 Egger, Carl : book, Pioniere der Alpen, 290; rev., 33I ; On the spelling of names, An­ GAILLARD, E. : obit., Victor de denmatten and Benet, 427 Ce·ssole, 207 ; Rene Gode­ Eiger : ascent by Mittellegi arete, 355 froy, 208 Eiger Glacier : first ascent and cross­ Gait,]. C. : obit., 210 ing, 59 et seq. ; first trav­ Galla, Il: I 8 ' ellers on, 58 Gangotri Group : ill., 184 Eigerjoch, The : first ascent, 55 et seq. G en eve, Vue de : ill., frontispiece Elliott, C. A. : obit., Sir T. Fowell Glacier Flea : ill., 360 Buxton, Bt., 30I Glaciers : The vertical retardatio~ of Ellis, William H. : obit., 208; port., the ice of, 271 et seq., chart, 210 272, Elmslie, W. T. : obit., 86 ; port., 88 G letscherhorn : ascent by N. face, Engel, C. E. : Alpine Archives at 313 Ried, 261 et seq. ; Ruskin Glover, G. T., 279 and Dr. Melchior Ulrich, Godefroy, Rene : obit., 208 320; Horace Walker, 102 Goodfellow, Basil R. : Indian Leave, Esquilant, Pat : fatal accident, 414 373 et seq. ; Notes on Etna, Mount : attempt from Ran­ Nandakna (Garhwal) 1944, dazzo, 364 202 et seq. Everest, Mount : Projected expedi- Gos, Charles : Academie Fran9aise • t1on,• 314 award 1946, 425; book, L ' Epopee Alpestre, I 12 ; FIESCHERHORNER, Gross and Hinter: obit., Josef Pollinger, 309 tr., 352 Gran Sasso, Corno Piccolo : ill., Finsteraarhorn : ascent, 245 ; tr. by 368 ; Mountain Warfare S.E. ridge, 282 Training School, 364, 367 INDBX 445 Greene, Raymond : The Greene Guides cont. Carrier, 201 ; ill., 201-203 ; first ascent of S. ridge of Piz Mountain Rescue : Stretch­ Bacone, I5 ; Stager, Fritz : Ebne­ ers, 20 et seq. fluh, first descent by N.W. ridge, Greenwood, A. M. : obit., E. H. L. I03 ; Supersaxo, Oscar : obit., Wigram, 304 99 ; Taugwalder and the Matter­ Greenwood, Eric, 282 horn, 290 et seq.