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Annual Report 2011 annualmistra reportfuture fashion annual report2011 2011 1 directors´ view We are proud to introduce the first annual report of Mistra Future Fashion (MiFuFA) – a truly cross disciplinary research program. In this program, re- searchers within environmental science, business and CSR science, beha- vioral science, political science, sustainable design science, psychology and technical sciences are working together to initiate a systemic change of the fashion industry towards sustainability. The program started in June 2011, which means that the first annual report only covers approximately half a calendar year. This initial period of the program has mainly been devoted to establishing the program organiza- tion, including building up a managerial and administrative structure, and developing a communication & outreach strategy. Many industry parties are willing to contribute with their work in collaboration with the institutes and universities. A lot of energy has therefore been put into forming a consor- tium agreement for all parties to sign. However, during this short period most PhD students have been recruited and have already started up their projects. Many collaboration tasks linking the different projects together have also been started or planned. Partly due to the trans-disciplinary character of the program, we feel that there is a lot of positive energy being created at the interfaces between the different disciplines, and that this energy will help us to achieve our objectives. Mats Westin Program Director Åsa Östlund Deputy Program Director mistra future fashion, annual report 2011 www.mistrafuturefashion.com April 2012 Production and Layout : Mats Westin Annelie Karlsson & Linda Thomsen SP Technical research Institute of Sweden Paper: Scandia 2000, white / Print: Responstryck Front cover illustration: ”River girl” by Emma Cowlam Photo: Istockphoto (p. 7,9,13,17,23) Kalle Björklöf2 mistra(p. 11) futureRebecca fashion Early annual (p.15), report TED 2011Re- SP Report 2012:24 mistra future fashion annual report 2011 3 search Focus Group (p.16), Kevin Moran (p.21), Kay ISBN: 978-91-87017-39-1 Politowicz (p.21), Emma Cowlam (p.21) ISSN: 0284-5172 progress report 2011 what is mistra future fashion?...........................................................6 vioces on mistra future fashion........................................................ 9 Johan Ward.........................................................................10 Mona Blomdin Persson........................................................ 11 Pernilla Walkenström...........................................................12 project progress 2011........................................................................13 changing markets & business models: towards sustainable innovation in the fashion industry.............1414 clarifying sustainable fashion................................................15 interconnected design thinking and processes for sustainable textiles and fashion..............................................16 moving towards eco-efficient textile materials and processes............................................................................17 reuse, recycling and end of life issues.................................... 18 fashion for the public sector ................................................ 19 sustainable consumption and consumer behavior .........................20 policy instruments............................................................. 21 project outreach and communication..................................................22 organization...................................................................................24 financial information..................................................................... 26 mistra future fashion annual report 2011 5 what is what is mistra future fashion? mistra future fashion? The program is organized in eight The purpose of the MISTRA Future Fashion Program is to deliver insights research projects: and solutions that will be used by the Swedish fashion industry and other stakeholders to significantly improve the environmental performance and be p1. Changing markets & business models: Towards sustainable inno- a frontier within sustainable fashion. The program is divided into two four- vation in the fashion industry year phases; phase one (2011- 2015) and phase 2 (2015- 2019.) The funding of phase two is however dependent upon a successful result during phase one. p2. Clarifying sustainable fashion In phase one, the program consists of eight research projects, each aiming p3. Interconnected design thinking to generate new knowledge and recommendations that can be used by the and processes for sustainable textiles and fashion Swedish fashion industry. p4. Moving towards eco-efficient The program is organized to leverage the expertise and networks of lead- textile materials and processes ing Swedish and international research institutes and universities. Moreover it aims to build a national platform of research within sustainable fashion. p5. Reuse, recycling and End of life issues Stakeholders engaged in the program include governmental agencies, vol- untary organizations, and companies within the entire textile value chain: p6. Fashion for the public sector forestry; pulping, textile manufacturing and recycling. p7. Sustainable consumption and To ensure that the platform deliver insights and solutions beneficial to the consumer behavior fashion industry in the near future, the program also involves representa- p8. Policy instruments tives from business, government and civil society as advisors in addition to active research partners. Ultimately, the program aims to create a dynamic and robust relationship between the research community and practitioners working in or in close Together these outcomes have the ability to make the Swedish fashion indus- cooperation with the Swedish Fashion industry, thus ensuring that Sweden try more competitive by turning sustainability into a business advantage. and the Nordic region take the lead within sustainability research and prac- tice related to the fashion industry. The program also aims to increase each Program Funding organization’s ability to carry out research within sustainable fashion in the future. The over-all turnover for Mistra Future Fashion is expected to reach at least SEK 110 million for eight years (2011–2019). The main funding organization Several different outcomes are expected of this trans-disciplinary research is Mistra, the Foundation for Strategic Environmental Research, which will program. For example our goal seeks to: support the program with SEK 40 million over the first four years, to be fol- • offer strategies for different stakeholders as well as framework for lowed by another SEK 40 million in phase two. policy instruments on how to bring about systemic changes in the fash- ion industry. Södra Skogsägarna’s Research Foundation is contributing with SEK 1.2 mil- • shorten time for market introduction of new, sustainable textile fibers Read more about the research lion over the first four years and the agreed counter-financing from the and to increase textile recycling leading to high-value products through program and financers at: industrial and organization parties (at present a cluster of 10 parties) is at dissolution and spinning of new fibers of virgin quality. www.mistrafuturefashion.com least SEK 15 million for the first four-year period. • provide educational and feedback material for designers regarding design tools as well as offering communication strategies to different target groups. 6 mistra future fashion annual report 2011 mistra future fashion annual report 2011 7 what is mistra future fashion? Parties The program currently consists of the following parties: Research parties: SP Technical Research Institute of Sweden Chalmers University of Technology Copenhagen Business School (CBS) Konstfack, University College of Arts, Crafts and Design Innventia Malmö University Stockholm School of Economics (SSE) Swerea IVF TED, The University of the Arts London Industrial and organization parties: (contributing in-kind to program activities) Industry parties: Fabric Retail Global AB F.O.V. Fabrics AB H&M Hennes & Mauritz AB I:Collect AG Kiram AB Södra Skogsägarna Organization and agency parties: Swedish Environmental Protection Agency Myrorna (Swedish Salvation Army 2nd hand) e fashion Protekostiftelsen Swedish Chemicals Agency Communication and outreach party voices on Sustainable Fashion Academy mistra future fashion 8 mistra future fashion annual report 2011 ”sustainable fashion “an opportunity can be a competitive to increase the industries advantage” knowledge of chemicals” ”H & M is a major player within the fashion industry which means we have a ”At the Chemicals Agency, we strive to achieve an environment free from responsibility to try to promote an increased demand for more sustainable hazardous substances. Chemicals play an important role in our society, products. We are already the world’s largest purchaser of organic cotton but some chemicals can also pose major problems and risks, both for the as well as a large purchaser of Tencel, a cellulose-based fiber with environ- environment and human health. Large quantities of chemicals are currently mentally smart properties. used by the textile industry, and on average it takes almost three kilos of chemicals to produce one plain T-shirt. The amount of chemicals needed Just like the rest of the textile industry, we are facing a big challenge
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