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Nordiske Arbejdspapirer N Ordic W Orking P Apers Ved Stranden 18 DK-1061 Copenhagen K www.norden.org NORDISKE ARBEJDSPAPIRER N ORDIC W ORKING P APERS Sustainable textile initiatives and suggestions for a Nordic Roadmap Ingun Grimstad Klepp (project leader) and Kirsi Laitala from SIFO (National Institute for Consumer Research, Norway), Michael Schragger, Andreas Fol- lér and Elin Paulander from SFA (Sustainable Fashion Academy, Sweden) Tone Skårdal Tobiasson and Jonas Eder-Hansen from NFA (Nordic Fashion Association/nicefashion.org), David Palm, Maria Elander and Tomas Ryd- berg from IVL (Swedish Environmental Research Institute, Sweden) David Watson and Nikola Kiørboe from CRI (Copenhagen Resource Institute, Denmark). http://dx.doi.org/10.6027/NA2014-929 NA2014:929 ISSN 2311-0562 This working paper has been published with financial support from the Nordic Council of Ministers. However, the contents of this working paper do not necessarily reflect the views, policies or recommendations of the Nordic Council of Ministers. Content Preface........................................................................................................................................................ 7 Summary ................................................................................................................................................... 9 Introduction .......................................................................................................................................... 11 1.1 Definitions and limitations .......................................................................................... 12 1.2 Abbreviations ................................................................................................................... 13 2. Inspiration ...................................................................................................................................... 15 2.1 The four Rs ........................................................................................................................ 15 2.2 Replace ............................................................................................................................... 17 2.3 Reduce ................................................................................................................................ 20 2.4 Redirect .............................................................................................................................. 22 2.5 Rethink ............................................................................................................................... 25 2.6 Conclusions ....................................................................................................................... 27 3. Stakeholder views ....................................................................................................................... 29 3.1 Important findings ......................................................................................................... 29 3.2 Stakeholder survey ........................................................................................................ 30 3.3 Responsibility without means ................................................................................... 31 3.4 Consumer perspectives in five European countries .......................................... 35 3.5 Other stakeholders ......................................................................................................... 40 3.6 Quality requirements in eco-labels .......................................................................... 42 4. Methodology development....................................................................................................... 45 4.1 Framework of focus areas ........................................................................................... 45 4.2 Initiative Matrix Template........................................................................................... 47 5. Mapping of initiatives ................................................................................................................. 53 5.1 Limitations ........................................................................................................................ 53 5.2 International..................................................................................................................... 54 5.3 Nordic initiatives ............................................................................................................ 70 5.4 Conclusions ....................................................................................................................... 73 6. Assessment..................................................................................................................................... 75 6.1 Important findings ......................................................................................................... 75 6.2 Strengths and weaknesses of the initiatives (A) ................................................. 76 6.3 Unexplored areas and further research (B) .......................................................... 81 6.4 Nordic positions of strength (C) ................................................................................ 87 6.5 Synergies between policy areas (D)......................................................................... 97 7. Plan for a Nordic Roadmap .................................................................................................... 107 7.1 Important recommendations ................................................................................... 107 7.2 Scope and limitations .................................................................................................. 108 7.3 Replace ............................................................................................................................. 109 7.4 Reduce .............................................................................................................................. 110 7.5 Redirect ............................................................................................................................ 110 7.6 Rethink ............................................................................................................................. 111 7.7 Potential of the four Rs ............................................................................................... 111 7.8 The whole sector........................................................................................................... 112 7.9 Nordic engagement ...................................................................................................... 113 7.10 Coordinating with international projects ............................................................ 114 7.11 Hazardous chemicals................................................................................................... 115 7.12 Knowledge-building .................................................................................................... 116 7.13 Education, public debate and bottoms-up ........................................................... 117 7.14 Goals .................................................................................................................................. 117 8. Conclusions .................................................................................................................................. 119 Sustainable textile initiatives and suggestions for a Nordic Roadmap 5 9. References .................................................................................................................................... 123 Sammendrag ....................................................................................................................................... 129 Appendix 1: Feedback from stakeholders on “inspiration” ............................................... 131 The introductory letter ............................................................................................................ 131 Feedback from stakeholders ................................................................................................. 132 Citations of some of the comments ..................................................................................... 133 Appendix 2: Eco-label quality requirements .......................................................................... 137 Appendix 3: Report from the Global Leadership in Sustainable Apparel Symposium .................................................................................................................................. 141 Appendix 4: Mapping results ........................................................................................................ 149 Nordic initiatives ....................................................................................................................... 149 Danish ............................................................................................................................................ 154 Swedish ......................................................................................................................................... 161 Norwegian .................................................................................................................................... 171 Finnish ..........................................................................................................................................
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