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The Transformation of Food Culture on the Case of Kyrgyz Nomads—A Historical Overview

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The Transformation of Food Culture on the Case of Kyrgyz Nomads—A Historical Overview sustainability Article The Transformation of Food Culture on the Case of Kyrgyz Nomads—A Historical Overview Aiperi Otunchieva 1,*, Jorobek Borbodoev 2 and Angelika Ploeger 1 1 Specialised Partnerships in Sustainable Food Systems and Food Sovereignty, Faculty of Organic Agricultural Sciences, University of Kassel, 37213 Witzenhausen, Germany; [email protected] 2 Department of Philosophy and Humanitarian Disciplines, Faculty of Humanitarian Knowledge, Kyrgyz State University Named after I. Arabaev, Bishkek 720026, Kyrgyzstan; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Abstract: The society in Kyrgyzstan experiences a triple burden of malnutrition which occurs when undernutrition, overnutrition and micronutrient deficiency coexists, straining the public health system. This research investigates historical trends of nutrition transition of nomadic and semi-nomadic Kyrgyz and foods consumed earlier before industrialisation and intensification of agriculture started. Qualitative research design inspired by historical analysis and sociological methods were employed. Saturation sampling was used to conduct 15 semi-structural interviews and informal conversations with non-participant observation. Secondary data analysis was conducted based on Kyrgyz nomads’ scientific studies from history and anthropology, agricultural politics and nutrition studies. Results suggest that Kyrgyz nomads have undergone several periods of change of social and political order since the mid-19th century till nowadays from nomadic tribe-based system to predominantly sedentarism and limited semi-nomadic lifestyle. The collectivisation of farms, urbanisation and planned type of economy led to shifts in lifestyle and diets. Furthermore, with trade liberalisation and open economy policies, the entrance of food corporations impacted the Citation: Otunchieva, A.; Borbodoev, nutritional status of the population. The study also reveals several traditional foods rich in nutrients. J.; Ploeger, A. The Transformation of Consumption of forgotten and neglected plants might improve the nutrition status of the current Food Culture on the Case of Kyrgyz population. Nutrition intervention programs should definitely consider locally available foods as Nomads—A Historical Overview. part of public nutrition. Sustainability 2021, 13, 8371. https://doi.org/10.3390/su13158371 Keywords: nutrition transition; nomadism; transition economies; the triple burden of malnutrition; food security; traditional knowledge; medicinal foods and plants Academic Editor: Filippo Giarratana Received: 26 May 2021 Accepted: 21 July 2021 1. Introduction Published: 27 July 2021 In 2020, around two billion people could not have safe, nutritious and sufficient food Publisher’s Note: MDPI stays neutral daily [1]. Kyrgyzstan is a landlocked and mountainous country in post-Soviet Central with regard to jurisdictional claims in Asia with a population of over 6 million. Inadequate and poor diet in certain parts of published maps and institutional affil- the population is the underlying cause for multiple health issues existing in the country. iations. According to WHO [2], 83% of non-communicable diseases (NCDs) were responsible for deaths in 2016. At the same time, statistics show that the number of people with cardiovascular diseases increased by around 8% in the country between 2015 and 2019 [3]. Maternal and child malnutrition is one of the public health problems in Kyrgyzstan. Regardless of several economic and political crises during the last 30 years, independent Copyright: © 2021 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. Kyrgyzstan has experienced improvements in several human nutrition indicators, partly This article is an open access article owing to nutrition intervention programs [4]. distributed under the terms and Flour fortification and Gulazyk (micronutrient powder for children under 3 and 5) conditions of the Creative Commons have been introduced to improve the nutritional status of different parts of the popula- Attribution (CC BY) license (https:// tion [5]. Gulazyk showed a positive result for reducing iron deficiency but was insufficient creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ for diminishing anaemia levels for Kyrgyzstan [5,6]. This might be due to the worsening of 4.0/). households’ food security [5] and the growing availability of fast foods [7]. Low-income Sustainability 2021, 13, 8371. https://doi.org/10.3390/su13158371 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/sustainability Sustainability 2021, 13, 8371 2 of 19 families are more vulnerable to external shocks, such as abrupt changes in food prices. For the period 1990–2017 the child malnutrition situation substantially improved, but re- gional inequalities remain. At the same time, maternal nutrition status has not dramatically improved for the last 20 years [4]. The coexistence of undernutrition, overnutrition and micronutrient deficiency in a society named triple burden of malnutrition currently exists in Kyrgyzstan. Political, economic, social and cultural transformations impact the habitual lifestyle and accustomed diet of a group of people. With entering market relations, dietary changes are occurring in many societies. In a rapidly changing world, it is essential to look back and explore the different societal phenomenon. As societies face political and economic transformations, how do these influence their diet? Does it stay the same or evolve with new realities? This is the underlying question driving us to understand how nomadic Kyrgyz’s diet and nutrition changes have developed over the last 170 years. Limited literature exists which discusses typical food starting the 19th century among nomad Kyrgyz. Thus, this paper aims to explore how the food culture of Kyrgyz was evolving before and during the socialist rule and during the post-independence era. The reason for choosing these historical periods is three different socio-political systems representing complex societal transformation: (1) Tribal system (Mid 19th century–1922); (2) Socialist/communist (1922–1991); (3) The market economy (1991–today). The objectives of this article are to (i) make a historical overview of major changes which have occurred in the past 170 years within Kyrgyz communities; (ii) understand how three political and economic systems are related to nutrition transition, and (iii) explore forgotten foods and medicinal plants. Our hypothesis states that with shift to the industrialisation of agriculture and marketisation of the economy, centuries-long consumed authentic food is under the danger of disappearance and the growing popularity of Western- oriented food impact nutrition transition and health pattern of population. 2. Theoretical Framework Theory of nutrition transition concerns with humanities’ diet changes occurring across time and space. It derives from epidemiological and demographic transition theories that study humans’ life expectancy patterns and causes of death. Humans go through five stages of nutrition transition (Figure1), starting with food gathering when consumption of carbohydrates and fibre is high, and that of fat is low coupled with the advanced physical activity and thus low obesity levels. Famine belongs to the period of extreme food shortage, settlement and cultivation of basic crops (Stage 2). Stage 3 refers to the state of receding famine when the consumption of fruits, vegetables and protein increase and carbohydrates in diets decrease. It is accompanied by increased production in agriculture and thus less physical human activity. Stage 4 is characterized by high consumption of processed foods and fibre, low activity levels and thus high obesity rates among the population. Levels of degenerative diseases also rise. Conscious attitude to nutrition coupled with a behavioural change toward a healthy and balanced diet is the last stage of the nutrition transition [8–11]. Most low and middle-income countries, including Kyrgyzstan, are currently at stage four, at which the humans diet consists of a high intake of oils, sugars, animal products, processed foods and sweeteners [12]. This type of diet often leads to nutrition-related non-communicable chronic diseases (NR-NCDs). The term nutrition transition connotates diet changes in which consumption of fruits and vegetables, animal products, fats and sweets increase, whereas intake of fibre decreases. These transitions happen due to income improvements [13]. As the definition of this term clearly explains changes in diet patterns, it omits background transformations taking place, leading societies to a different and unhabituated nutrition pattern. Thus, nutrition scientists focus mostly on how certain nutrients impact human health rather than exploring overall political, economic and cultural settings influencing dietary patterns [14]. SustainabilitySustainability 2021, 132021, x FOR, 13, 8371PEER REVIEW 3 of 19 3 of 20 Food gathering Famine Receding famine Behavioural change Degenerative toward a healthy diseases and balanced diet Figure 1.Figure Stages 1. ofStages nutrition of nutrition transition transition (source: (source: authors’ authors’ visualization visualization based based on theon theorythe theory of nutrition of nutrition transition). transition). Nowadays, low and middle-income countries face diet changes into the so-called “WesternMost low diet” and [15 middle,16]. The-income term entails countries, turning including away from Kyrgyzstan, traditional andare currently mostly un- at stage four,processed at which foods the humans towards adiet high consists
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