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Analysing the Effect of Decatising on the Frictional Properties of Wool Fabrics SelinHanife Eryuruk, Fatma Kalaoglu, Analysing the Effect of Decatising SenemKursun Bahadir, *Simona Jevsnik on the Frictional Properties of Wool Fabrics Istanbul Technical University, Abstract Textile Technologies and Design Faculty, The properties of wool fabrics desired can only be achieved if appropriate finishing pro- Textile Engineering Department, cesses are carried out. Decatising is a part of wool finishing processes increasing the fab- Istanbul, Turkey ric surface properties of fabrics. In this study, high pressure decatising process was applied E-mail: [email protected] to semi-decatised woven wool fabrics. Surface properties (coefficient of friction, mean de- viation in the frictional force, geometric roughness) of the fabrics were measured by KES- *University of Maribor, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, FB4, and the friction coefficient of the fabrics by means of a Frictorq test machine before Department of Textile Material and Design, and after application of the high pressure decatising process. The effect of high pressure Maribor, Slovenia decatising on the fabric surface properties of wool and wool blend fabrics was analysed. It was concluded that high pressure decatising process had a healing effect on the fabric sur- face properties, and also the coefficient of friction and surface roughness values decreased. Key words: wool fabric, decatising process, surface properties, frictional coefficient, han- dle. n Introduction The frictional properties including fric- tion coefficient of wool fabrics are highly important components of subjective han- dle assessment. The quality and surface characteristics of wool fabrics can be evaluated by handle evaluation methods. Finishing is a series of processes to de- velop the properties of wool fabrics and different combinations of wet and dry Figure 1. KES-FB4 automatic surface finishing processes are applied to wool tester [16]. fabrics to improve the handle and me- chanical properties of the fabrics. Deca- tising is a normal finishing step for many wool and wool blend fabrics. High pres- A) sure decatising is an effective mechanical softening treatment resulting in lustrous, soft and smooth handle [1]. B) In the semi-decatising process, wool fabric is wound onto a perforated drum between interleaving cotton blankets. Steam is sent through the perforated C) drum for several minutes to ensure mois- ture and heat. The controlling time, pres- sure, heat, moisture and cooling result in effective mechanical softening and better surface properties like luxurious, soft- ness and smooth handle [2]. High pressure decatising is one of Figure 2. Frictorqtest device [17]; A) the finishing processes that permanently tarque sensor, B) fabric sample, C) drive sets the thickness and relaxed dimen- motor. Table 1. Characteristics of fabric samples. Sample No. Material type Fabric area weight, g/m2 Process 1 165.74 Semi-Decatising 100% Wool 2 170.19 High Pressure Decatising (H.P.D) 3 194.55 Semi-Decatising 70%Wool-30%PET 4 198.12 High Pressure Decatising (H.P.D) 5 171.42 Semi-Decatising 75% Wool-25%Silk 6 177.96 High Pressure Decatising (H.P.D) Eryuruk SH, Kalaoglu F, Bahadir SK, Jevsnik S. Analysing the Effect of Decatising on the Frictional Properties of Wool Fabrics. 79 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2014; 22, 3(105): 79-83. sions of wool fabric. It also increases the Researchers, beginning with Pierce, no- Lima et. al. used the instrument Fric- surface smoothness and handle prop- ticed the need for quantitative assessment torq to compare the friction coefficient erties of wool fabrics. In this process of handle in 1930 [4]. Kawabata related in nonwovens applied for non-active wool fabric is interleaved with a cotton the handle value with 16 mechanical medical devices, and they concluded that or cotton/synthetic wrapper, at a regain properties that can be measured with 5 frictorq measurements could be used as usually between 5 and 15%, and wound a comfort parameter because information different instruments providing a valu- into a batch on a hollow perforated cyl- related with tactile perception was ob- able basis to make an objective assess- inder in an autoclave (pressure vessel) tained [7]. Also Lima et. al. analysed and with steam greater than atmospheric ment, especially making comparisons compared the friction coefficient of three pressure. The direction of steam flow [5]. The Kawabata Evaluation System different double-faced fabrics made from can usually be varied from outside-to- (KES-FB) is based on discrete test instru- non-conventional fibre combinations [8]. inside or alternatively inside-to-outside, ments for measuring tensile, shear, bend- Thorndike and Varley researched the whereby both the cohesive and perma- ing, compression and surface properties, frictional properties of fabrics in rela- nent sets are introduced into the fabric. which are the basis for the expression of tion to handle [9]. Owen proposed eight After purging with steam to remove air, fabric handle. During the surface test of physical properties, which are stiffness, the roll is steamed under pressure for up KES (FB-4), two contact sensors meas- weight, thickness, compressibility, liveli- to five minutes at temperatures between ure the thickness variation of the sample ness, ease of skewness, shearing and cold 105 and 130 °C. The fabric and wrapper feeling, as important factors involved in and frictional force. Surface roughness are then cooled by drawing air at ambient handle [10]. and the coefficient of friction are given temperature through the roll. The amount of permanent sets introduced depends at the end of the test. A higher coeffi- Finnimore carried out different finishing on the fabric pH, the time of treatment, cient of friction value (MIU) indicates processes for 100% wool knitted and wo- the temperature and relative humid- higher fabric friction, while a higher sur- ven samples and found out that pressure ity of the steam and on the regain of face roughness value (SMD) indicates a decatising was the most important step the fabric [3]. rougher (less smooth) fabric surface [6]. for fabric handle [11]. Finnimore further 0.20 0.25 U U I 0.18 I M M , , t p 0.16 f 0.20 r e a w w 0.14 n i n i 0.15 0.12 y t y r t r 0.10 e e p p o r 0.10 o 0.08 r p p 0.06 e e c c a f 0.05 a r f 0.04 r u u 0.02 S S 0.00 0.00 Before H.P.D After H.P.D Before H.P.D After H.P.D 100% wool 70% wool - 30% PET 100% wool 70% wool - 30% PET 75% wool - 25% silk 75% wool - 25% silk D 10.0 U 8.0 I M S M , , 7.0 t p f r 8.0 e a w 6.0 w n i n i 6.0 5.0 y t y t r r e e 4.0 p p o r o 4.0 r 3.0 p p e e c c 2.0 a f a 2.0 r f r u 1.0 u S S 0.0 0.0 Before H.P.D After H.P.D Before H.P.D After H.P.D 100% wool 70% wool - 30% PET 100% wool 70% wool - 30% PET 75% wool - 25% silk 75% wool - 25% silk Figure 3. Comparison of surface properties of fabrics before and after high pressure decatising. 80 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2014, Vol. 22, 3(105) found out that during decatising, fabric decatising on men’s suit fabrics, which Table 2. Frictorq test results. thickness decreased and yarns were flat- are wool and wool blends [12]. They re- tened, which could lead to an increased Max Min N° ported that the more effective the setting Sample torque, torque, data contact area between yarns and, hence, treatment, the greater the change in bend- cNm cNm points an increase in shear rigidity obtained. De 1-Before HPD 0.339 0.320 792 Boos et. al. researched the effect of semi- ing rigidity, residual curvature and thick- 2-After HPD 0.291 0.281 793 decatising, crabbing, scouring, heat set- ness were, but the heat setting had little 3-Before HPD 0.333 0.311 791 ting, dyeing, final pressing and pressure effect on the ultimate bending rigidity of 4 After HPD 0.325 0.302 792 5-Before HPD 0.386 0.355 801 6-After HPD 0.340 0.318 792 the fabric pressed, especially after pres- sure decatising. Surface property MIU change in warp, % Dhingraet. al. studied the effects of weaving on the heat setting, scouring, Surface property MIU blowing, paper pressing and pressure change in weft, % decatising. They showed that there was a slight reduction after scouring in both the shear rigidity and shear hysteresis values, while the highest compressibil- ity was observed in the pressing process [13]. Lin et. al. treated floss silk by scour- ing and finishing, tested the mechanical Figure 4. Changes in the surface properties of samples after the application of high pres- sure decatising. and surface properties by an Instron 5566 tensile tester, and the crystal structure was analysed with FTIR [14]. They found that the fibre surface becomes much smooth- er after the scouring agent degumming treatment. Hasaniet. al. researched and compared low-stress mechanical proper- ties, such as tensile, shear, bending, com- Surface property SMD pression, and surface properties, meas- change in warp, % ured by the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-FB), of polyethylene Surface property SMD terephthalate (PET) and poly(lactic acid) change in weft, % (PLA) fabrics before and after softening with commercial softeners [15]. In this study, in order to measure and compare the handle properties of wool fabrics, the high pressure decatising pro- cess and semi-decatising processes were Figure 5.
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