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Love Potion NEW YORK — in a Business Sometimes Criticized for Sameness, Clarins Has Come up with an Unusual Fragrance Concept: a Mother and Daughter Combo

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Love Potion NEW YORK — in a Business Sometimes Criticized for Sameness, Clarins Has Come up with an Unusual Fragrance Concept: a Mother and Daughter Combo PATRICIA FIELD’S NEW DASH/5 CIRCULATION SECRETS/16 WWWDomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • January 21, 2005 • $2.00 Beauty Love Potion NEW YORK — In a business sometimes criticized for sameness, Clarins has come up with an unusual fragrance concept: a mother and daughter combo. Par Amour and Par Amour Toujours are meant to symbolize the bond of love. It will begin a global rollout in March. For more, see page 7. Gauging the Fallout From Latest Federated-May Merger Talks By Vicki M. Young and David Moin after three previous attempts unparalleled power over vendors NEW YORK — Will the fourth time be a stretching back to the Eighties and mall operators alike. charm? failed to produce a deal. But a News of the talks sent May’s Federated Department Stores merger, if completed this time, shares up 9.2 percent on Thursday and May Department Stores are would rock the U.S. department to $34.25. Intraday trading ranged said to be in merger talks once again store scene, giving Federated See Federated, Page 14 PHOTO BRYN KENNY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, JANUARY 21, 2005 WWW.WWD.COM WWDFRIDAY Safeguard Legal Battle Rolls On Beauty By Kristi Ellis inary injunction in the case on Jan. 3. The Justice GENERAL Department argued in its motion to dismiss the case Shares of May Department Stores jumped 9 percent on news that Federated WASHINGTON — The legal tussle over whether that the court lacks jurisdiction to consider USA- Stores was eyeing it as an acquisition that could fetch $15 billion. the U.S. government has the authority to impose ITA’s complaints because the safeguard petitions 1 limits on Chinese textile and apparel imports con- under review have not been decided. It also said The legal tussle over the government’s right to impose limits on Chinese tinued with the filing of a legal brief by the U.S. the USA-ITA does not have the right to challenge 2 imports raged on, as USA-ITA filed a brief against dismissing the case. Association of Importers of Textiles & Apparel. CITA’s deliberations and has not exhausted the ad- Patricia Field has joined forces with Damon Dash to create a limited-edition The association, which filed a lawsuit against ministrative remedies provided by the government the government last month challenging its author- to challenge the safeguard petitions. 5 collection for Rocawear called Patricia Field for The House of Rocawear. ity over China threat-based safeguard petitions, USA-ITA lawyers wrote that the government’s BEAUTY: Executives running Dior’s U.S. business, Pamela Baxter and Terry filed the brief Wednesday night opposing the gov- exhaustion of remedies argument is “unpersua- 6 Darland, are reporting strong sales growth after trimming the door count. ernment’s motion to dismiss the case. sive,” because the association has no “tangible ad- “The defendant repeatedly misstates USA-ITA’s ministrative means in which to challenge CITA’s BEAUTY: Clarins is counting on the power of love with a mother-daughter claims, instead setting up strawmen assertions, interpretation or application of the China safe- 7 launch of tandem fragrances called Par Amour and Par Amour Toujours. and wholly fails to address the actual issues pre- guard procedures.” sented in USA-ITA’s complaint,” the brief stated. Domestic textile, fiber and apparel producers The group’s response came amid speculation filed a dozen safeguard petitions targeting some $1.9 SUZY over whether the government would appeal a two- billion in Chinese apparel and textile imports in an David de Rothschild breaks the record for traversing the Antarctic…Bring week-old temporary injunction that stops the gov- effort to save U.S. textile and apparel jobs from an 4 on the Oscars…The donkeys and elephants mix it up. ernment’s interagency Committee for the expected surge in Chinese imports this year. The Classified Advertisements........................................................................19 Implementation of Textile Agreements from re- producers claim the injunction and delay in the re- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is viewing a slew of petitions seeking fresh limits on view process will further hurt the beleaguered sector. [email protected], using the individual’s name. Chinese imports based on the threat of market dis- The National Council of Textile Organizations WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 ruption. In addition, one of the U.S. textile trade asserts in its report that job losses and mill closings FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. groups that filed the China safeguard petitions re- in 2004 were tempered by three China safeguards VOLUME 189, NO. 14. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one leased a year-end economic report urging the gov- the government imposed on imports of knit fabric, additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL ernment to file an appeal of the injunction quickly. bras and dressing gowns and robes from China. OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., A Justice Department spokesman did not return Those safeguard quotas have since expired, and Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, calls on Wednesday, and government offices were three renewals are among the 12 pending petitions. Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- closed Thursday in observance of Inauguration The National Textile Association also issued a President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at Day. A spokesman repeatedly said over the past statement asking the Bush administration to file an additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. two weeks that the Justice Department was review- appeal, self-initiate safeguards based on market POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR ing whether to file an appeal. disruption early this year and speed the release of SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is USA-ITA, which represents large importers such import data, which currently lags a month behind required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new as J.C. Penney Co. Inc. and Liz Claiborne Inc., sued most other government reports, in order to “stream- subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production five federal agencies in the U.S. Court of line the collection of import statistics.” correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild International Trade in Manhattan on Dec. 1, claim- U.S. textile and apparel employment fell by magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully ing the government violated its own published regu- 32,100 to 676,500 in 2004, as some 30 textile mills screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive lations and the Administrative Procedures Act, ex- shut their doors after 50 plants closed in 2003, the these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED ceeding its authority over safeguard petitions. The report said. Textile corporate sales “improved MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND association is seeking a permanent injunction slightly,” up 5.7 percent to $37 billion last year, but TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED against CITA reviewing threat-based petitions. textile profitability remained “marginal” at 1.8 TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Senior Judge Richard Goldberg issued a prelim- percent of sales, the NCTO reported. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. Quote of the Week “You can become jaded. It’s such a difficult time for Washington. The traffic doesn’t move. You can’t get anything delivered.” — Letitia Baldridge on Inauguration Week In Brief The 1951 window… …and today. PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER ● CHINA PROTEST: Two protesters angry about Chinese govern- ment policies unfurled signs and screamed their complaints Thursday during the opening ceremony of the Chinabrand 2005 L&T Windows Reflect Cassini’s Career Expo at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in Manhattan.
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