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ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK (p264) Mucundi Tombua One of Africa's most unusual national parks, where herds of wildlife congregate against a ghostly bleached-white backdrop Pediva

A N G O L A Cuito River

Epupa Namacunde Calueque Katwitwi Falls Cuangar Kunene River Oshikango Nkurenkuru Otjinungwa Cubango River Calai S k e l e t Okongwati Ruacana Ruacana Uutapi Ehomba Falls (Ombalantu) Oshakati Rundu (1868m) Ongandjera Ondangwa OWAMBO REGION o n Opuwo Okahao Lake KAOKOVELD Oponono KAVANGO C o a s t REGION Mangetti Cabo Fria Schwarze Kuppen Etosha Karakuwisa W i l (1869m) Pan Purros Etosha d e r n e s s NP Tsumeb Maroelaboom Kano Vlei Rocky Point Sesfontein Grootfontein River River Kamanjab Otavi Hoanib DAMARALAND OTJOZONDJUPA

Omatako SKELETON COAST (p304) Waterberg River Terrace Bay Plateau Park An eerie seascape of billowing River Outjo fog clouds and dew-wet dunes River Otjosondjou Uniab Petrified Forest Khorixas Torra Bay Huab River Skeleton Coast Twyfelfontein Eiseb National Park Burnt River N A M I B I A Brandberg Mountain (1339m) Ugab DAMARALAND (p292) West Otjosondu Okanuwa River An ancient basalt landscape, riven by Ugabmund Uis Summerdown Brandberg River Epukiro ephemeral river valleys and harbouring (2573m) Omaruru hundreds of rock engravings Spitzkoppe Okavarumendu Omaruru (1728m) Labora National West Coast Chief Hosea Y Recreation Area Karibib Seal Reserve Okahandja Kutaka Usakos International Cape Cross Bay Airport Buitepos Daan Viljoen Henties Bay River Omitara Gobabis 22ºS Game Park Seeis Witvlei SWAKOPMUND (p311) Welwitschia Sun, sea and sandboarding – Rock Bay Plains Swakop land Arnhem Cave indulge all your adventure Hoch Swakopmund as whims in seaside Swakopmund Walvis m Bergland Dorbabis Bay Kho Rehoboth Leonardville Kuiseb Canyon Sandwich Harbour Kuiseb Aminuis

River Gaub Klein Aub Oorwinning Tropic of Capricorn Solitaire Conception Kalkrand Aranos N a m i b Naomi Bay Naukluft Büllsport (1973m) Hardap Dam Naukluft Recreation Resort Stampriet Goricia Sand Dune Sea 24ºS & Game Park Olifants AkanousRiver Sesriem Mariental Voigtsgrund SOSSUSVLEI & Hollandsbird Sossusvlei Gochas SESRIEM (p335) Island Maltahöhe Trek the towering red dunes Namib-Naukluft Gibeon Witbooisvlei of Sossusvlei or ride out on Park NamibRand Duwisib horseback in the Sesriem canyon Castle Aurus D e s e r t NR Twee Rivier Asab Eidsemub Lichtenfels North Point Katzies Spencer Bay Tses Koës Brukkaros Dolphin Head (1586m) Garinais Neisip 26ºS Gaibis Bethanie Lüderitz Bay Aus Goageb Aroab A T L A N T I C Lüderitz Seeheim O C E A N Elizabeth Bay Possession River Gondwana Island DIAMOND AREA 1 & Cañon Park Tsaraxaibis SPERRGEBIET Fish River Fish Davignab NATIONAL PARK Canyon FISH RIVER (Restricted Witputs NP Grünau CANYON (p358) Access) Chamais Bay Ai-Ais Karasburg One of Africa's most awe-inspiring sights Ariamsvlei

Warmbad 28ºS Richtersveld NP Onseepkans 12ºE 14ºE Noordoewer 10ºE Alexander Bay nge River Alexander Bay Ora Vioolsdrif Goodhouse Cliff Point

Springbok OKAVANGO DELTA (p119) Z A M B I A CHOBE RIVERFRONT (p114) Glide through watery mazes in a Drive (or boat) past thousands of Kariba mokoro (traditional dugout canoe) elephants in the A N G O L A

TSODILO HILLS (p144) Ilwendo Marvel at the ancient San rock art Mpalila scattered amid the mystical hillsides Sesheke Island Lake Kariba Mosi-oa-Tunya Imusho Katima NP Mulilo River Kasane Kongola Livingstone Kazungula VICTORIA FALLS (p182) Mudumu Chobe Andara NP Linyanti Kasane Victoria Falls Time your visit to coincide with the full Bwabwata NP FR Zambezi Divundu River moon and see the enigmatic rainbow Mahango GR Chobe FR NP Kazuma Hwange Shakawe Mamili NP FR Pandamatenga Khaudom Nxamasiri Savuti Chobe NP Z I M B A B W E Tsodilo Hills Sibuyu FR Khaudom Xaa MAKGADIKGADI PANS & Nxaunxau Etsha 6 GR Moremi GR (p132) Kudumane Go on safari in one of Africa's most NATIONAL PARK (p106) Gumare O k a v a n g o pristine and exclusive wildernesses Gcangwa Witness the annual migration of Tsumkwe D e l t a thousands of wildebeest and zebras Nokaneng Mahito Shorobe Nxai Pan Konde Maitengwe Aha Hills Matlapaneng Nxai Pan NP (1250m) Gcwihaba (Drotsky's) Cave Maun River Gweta Nata Bulawayo Makalamabedi Nata Sanctuary Semowane KHAUDOM GAME Toteng Makgadikgadi Sehithwa Tutume RESERVE (p277) Pans NP Sowa Plumtree Lake Ntwetwe Pan Masunga A lost wilderness of Ngami meandering sand tracks, Siviya Sowa (Sua) Pan pristine bush and ample wildlife Gulubane Kuke Rakops Mmatshumo Mopipi Francistown Thuli River Tlalamabele Tati Matsiloje Deception Pan Orapa Letlhakane D'kar Foley Ghanzi B O T S W A N A River Molapo Mmashoro Serule Selebi-Phikwe Rietfontein Okwa River Letiahau North-East Khama Rhino Central Kalahari Sefophe Tuli GR Tshootsha Sanctuary Maope GR Pont Drift Xanagas Mogorosi Serowe Block Mawana NR Palapye Lotsane River Quoxo Tuli Zanzibar Takatshwaane Mosolotsane Sherwood Swartwater Bore Kalamare K a l a h a r i River Sefare Martin's Drift Kule D e s e r t Lokalane Kodibeleng Mahalapye Tom Burke Parr's Halt Ncojane Ohe Khutse Tsetseng GR Salajwe Kang Buffel's Drift Takatokwane Artesia Morwamosu Letlhakeng Spanwerk Ditshegwane Potgietersrus Mabutsane Mochudi Molepolole Kokong CENTRAL KALAHARI Sekoma GABORONE GAME RESERVE (p155) Khakea Jwaneng Mokolodi NR Test the limits of your survival Maokane instincts on a 4WD expedition Union's End Kanye Nossob Kgalagadi Mannyelanong GR Otse Hill Transfrontier Werda Lobatse (1489m) Kwang Marico River Park Mmathethe Pioneer Gate S O U T H A F R I C A River Pitsane Siding Bray Rustenburg Phitshane Ramatlhabama PRETORIA Vloorskop Mata Mata (959m) Mabule Mafikeng Auob Tshidilamolomo River Tshabong Pulai JOHANNESBURG River McCarthysrus Soweto Khawa Rooiputs Fly's Kop Molopo Potchefstroom Rietfontein Vryburg

Noenieput S O U T H A F R I C A ELEVATION LEGEND 2000m FR Forest Reserve Nakop Spitskop NR GR Game Reserve 1500m NP National Park Upington NR Nature Reserve 1200m Augrabies Kimberley Primary Orange Falls NP Vaal River 600m Secondary Tertiary Bloemfontein300m Unsealed River 0 100 km 0 0 60 miles

Prieska 9 Contents

AROUND GABORONE 89 On the Road 4 North of Gaborone 89 West of Gaborone 91 & South of Gaborone 92 Highlights 5 Eastern Botswana 94 Palapye 95 Destination Serowe 96 Botswana & Namibia 12 Khama Rhino Sanctuary 96 Madikwe Game Reserve 97 Francistown 97 Getting Started 15 Selebi-Phikwe 99 Lepokole Hills 100 Tuli Game Reserve 100 Itineraries 20 Northeastern National Parks & Botswana 102 Reserves 26 MAKGADIKGADI PANS 103 Nata 103 Sowa Pan 103 Wildlife & Habitat 33 Gweta 105 Ntwetwe Pan 106 Makgadikgadi & Botswana 51 Nxai Pans National Park 106 Orapa & Letlhakane 109 CHOBE NATIONAL PARK 109 Botswana History 52 Kasane & Around 109 Chobe Riverfront 114 Nogatsaa/Tchinga Area 116 Botswana Culture 59 Savuti 116 Linyanti Marshes 117 Botswana Okavango Delta Environment 119 72 Maun 120 Shorobe 129 Gaborone 78 Eastern Delta 129 Inner Delta 130 History 79 Moremi Game Reserve 132 Orientation 79 Okavango Panhandle 137 Dangers & Annoyances 81 Sights 81 Activities 84 Northwestern Festivals & Events 85 Botswana 140 Sleeping 85 Lake Ngami 142 Eating 86 Gcwihaba (Drotsky’s) Cave 142 Drinking 87 Aha Hills 143 Entertainment 87 Gumare 143 Shopping 88 Etsha 6 143 Getting There & Away 88 Tsodilo Hills 144 Getting Around 89 Shakawe 147 10 CONTENTS

Sleeping 240 Kalahari Northwestern 148 Eating 241 Namibia Ghanzi 149 Drinking 244 289 D’kar 150 Entertainment 244 DAMARALAND 292 Kgalagadi Villages 151 Shopping 245 The Spitzkoppe 292 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Getting There & Away 245 The Brandberg 293 Park 152 Getting Around 247 Messum Crater 294 Khutse Game Twyfelfontein & Reserve 154 Around 294 Central Kalahari North-Central Kamanjab 296 Game Reserve 155 Namibia 248 Palmwag 297 Sesfontein 298 EAST TO BOTSWANA 250 THE KAOKOVELD 298 Botswana Gobabis 250 Opuwo 298 Buitepos 250 Directory 158 Swartbooi’s Drift 301 NORTH TO ETOSHA 251 Epupa Falls 302 Okahandja & Around 251 The Northwest Corner 303 Botswana Erongo Mountains Transport 170 (Erongoberg) 252 THE SKELETON COAST 304 Omaruru 253 National West Coast Recreation Area 304 Kalkfeld 254 Skeleton Coast Victoria Falls 182 Otjiwarongo 255 National Park 307 Activities: A-Z 183 Outjo 255 Skeleton Coast Travel & Adventure 256 Wilderness Area 308 Companies 185 Otavi 259 186 Grootfontein 259 Central Livingstone 186 Tsumeb 261 Namibia 309 Mosi-oa-Tunya ETOSHA NATIONAL National Park 192 PARK 264 THE NORTHERN REACHES 311 193 History 264 Swakopmund 311 Victoria Falls 194 Orientation & Information 264 Walvis Bay 325 Victoria Falls Activities 267 National Park 198 NAMIB-NAUKLUFT Sleeping & Eating 268 PARK 330 Zambezi National Park 199 Getting There & Away 269 Namib Section 330 Naukluft Mountains 332 Namibia 201 Northern Sesriem & Sossusvlei 335 Namibia Solitaire & Around 338 270 NamibRand Nature Namibia History 202 THE NORTH 271 Reserve 339 Ondangwa 271 Oshakati 272 Southern Namibia Culture Uutapi (Ombalantu) & 211 Around 273 Namibia 340 Ruacana 275 THE CENTRAL PLATEAU 342 Namibia KAVANGO REGION 275 Dordabis 342 Rundu 276 Arnhem Cave 342 Environment 224 Khaudom Game Rehoboth 343 Reserve 277 Hoachanas 343 Windhoek THE CAPRIVI STRIP 278 Mariental 343 231 278 Hardap Dam Recreation History 232 Katima Mulilo 280 Resort & Game Reserve 343 Orientation 232 Mpalila Island 282 Brukkaros 344 Information 232 282 Keetmanshoop 344 Dangers & Annoyances 234 Mamili National Park 283 Naute Dam 345 Sights 234 OTJOZONDJUPA 284 Seeheim 345 Activities 239 History 284 Bethanie 345 Festivals & Events 239 Tsumkwe & Around 286 Duwisib Castle 346 CONTENTS 11

Maltahöhe 346 Namibia The Authors 406 Helmeringhausen 346 Directory 363 THE SOUTH COAST 347 Aus 347 Behind the The Aus–Lüderitz Road 347 Namibia Scenes 407 Lüderitz 348 Transport 377 Sperrgebiet National Park 354 Oranjemund 356 Health 387 Index 413 THE FAR SOUTH 357 Grünau 358 Fish River Canyon Language 394 GreenDex 423 National Park 358 Gondwana Cañon Park 361 Noordoewer 362 Glossary 403 Map Legend 424

Regional Map Contents

Victoria Falls Northwestern Northern Namibia pp272-3 p196 Namibia pp290-1 Okavango Delta p120 Northwestern Botswana p141 Northeastern Botswana p104 North-Central Namibia p249

Windhoek Eastern p233 Botswana p95

Central Namibia p310 Kalahari p149

Gaborone Southern Namibia p341 pp82-3 © Lonely Planet lonelyplanet.com

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