Nunavut Parks & Special Places – Editorial Series January, 2008 KatanniLik TErritOriaL Park Stretching across south Baffin Island’s Iqaluit. Today, the Itijjagiaq Trail is followed by skiers, Meta Incognita Peninsula from Frobisher Bay snowmobilers, dog teams, and hikers, as well as the to the Hudson Strait at Kimmirut, Katannilik Inuit who travel regularly between Kimmirut and Territorial Park is the crown jewel of Nunavut’s Iqaluit and continue to use the Soper River valley as territorial park system and a true destination park, their traditional hunting area. offering superlative arctic experiences in summer The Soper River valley, which runs through the and during the snow season. park, is sheltered from harsh winds and is 4 to “Katannilik” is an Inuktitut word meaning 5 degrees warmer than elsewhere. This unique “where there are waterfalls”, and refers to the many microclimate supports a lush profusion of arctic waterfalls cascading down the valley walls into the wildflowers as well as unusually tall willows that Soper River, a Canadian Heritage River which was are growing faster than willows in central Alberta. designated in 1992 for its outstanding natural and The wildflowers, including white arctic heather, cultural heritage values, and its incredible recreational mountain avens, and large-flowered wintergreen, opportunities. Inuit call the Soper River Kuujuaq, or are best in mid-July, and berries (bearberry, “great river”, and have traveled through this natural blueberry, lingonberry, and crowberry) ripen in inland corridor for centuries, on the Itijjagiaq Trail, mid-August. In early September, the tundra is which means “over the land”. This traditional trail resplendent in fall colours. begins in Kimmirut, and follows the east side of the In turn, the microclimate and plant life support river north to Mount Joy, then heads east and runs good numbers of caribou, as well as other wildlife across the peninsula to Frobisher Bay and ends in and birdlife. Caribou may be seen at any time Aussi disponible en français xgw8Ns7uJ5 wk5tg5 Pilaaktut Inuinaqtut ᑲᔾᔮᓇᖅᑐᖅ k a t j a q n a a q listen to the land aliannaktuk en osmose avec la terre VISITING AN ANCIENT LAND there is a set of “reversing falls” at the seaward Because of this abundance of wildlife, the end. Here the 10 metre tides on Pleasant Inlet area has always been a prime hunting area for cause the river to actually reverse at high tide, Inuit. Evidence of the Dorset culture, dating and salt water flows into Soper Lake (also back some 4,000 years, can still be found called Tasiujajuaq). ᑲᔾᔮᓇᖅᑐᖅ k a t j a q n a a q along the coastal region near Kimmirut. In a listen to the land Hiking along the river or up into side valleys warming period between 800 and 1,000 years aliannaktuk is endlessly rewarding. Whether you spot ago, the Dorset were replaced or overrun by en osmose avec la terre an incredible patch of wildflowers, discover the Thule people, bowhead whale hunters a peregrine falcon nest on a cliff, or watch who lived in large permanent villages. When an arctic fox playing with kits at a den, each the climate cooled (between 1650 and 1850) experience is like a precious jewel in the ᑲᔾᔮᓇᖅᑐᖅ k a t j a q n a aand q there were not as many bowhead whales setting of the arctic summer. Combined, the listen to the landalong the coasts of Baffin Island, the Thule park strings together these experiences into of year. Bulls are more common aliannaktuk in June, as were forced to change their hunting patterns, en osmose avec la terre a memorable necklace. the cows are at the calving grounds, but the relying more on the smaller sea mammals, and cows and calves return to the valley by the hunting caribou as part of their yearly cycle. TRAVELLING TO THE PARK end of August. Arctic foxes, arctic hares and They became the modern Inuit. For those planning to hike into Katannilik lemmings can be seen at any time of year, and Territorial Park The geology of Katannilik Territorial Park , a printed guidebook wolves are sometimes seen. Polar bears are is equally fascinating, with outcrops of called The Itijjagiaq Trail is indispensable. It not common, but are seen in the valley, so crystalline limestone, and Precambrian provides detailed information on the routes, knowing bear safety practices is essential. metamorphic and igneous rock. The land has landmarks, and survival shelters, as well as foldout strip maps that are of great use to Some 35-40 species of birds nest in or been sculpted by several ice sheets, leaving hikers. This 120 kilometre trail runs through pass through the area on migration. Rock behind glacial landforms and deposits, glacial a natural, unmarked landscape; it is not a ptarmigan, snowy owls and ravens remain erratic boulders, and glacial polish and prepared or signed surface, so map-reading through the winter, and the rest migrate striations in the bedrock. There are deposits skills and the proper maps are essential. but return in the spring. Canada geese and of mica, flat shiny crystals in thin flakes, brant geese nest in wetlands along the river, pewter-coloured graphite, tiny dark red The Soper is not a technically challenging and snow geese pass through in spring garnet crystals, fossiliferous limestone, and river, so can be enjoyably canoed, kayaked, and fall. Peregrine falcons and gyrfalcons deposits of marble or carving stones. The park or rafted by even novice paddlers. The great hunt throughout the valley. Snowy owl also contains a rare deposit of blue lapis lazuli variety of side hikes and wildlife watching populations are tied to lemming population which is found on Inuit Owned Lands, so opportunities make it an excellent 5-7 day booms; sometimes they are common, and you will require special permission from the trip. The lower section of the river is level and sometimes absent. Small tundra nesting birds Qikiqtani Inuit Association to visit the site. slow, so it is also possible to fly to Kimmirut include snow buntings, Lapland longspurs, In Katannilik Territorial Park, there are where you can rent canoes and gear for a trip horned larks, and northern pipits as well as numerous falls on the side streams flowing upriver. Operators will take paddlers to the semipalmated plovers and several sandpipers. into the Soper River and of course, Soper Soper Falls or Falcon Bluffs, and will pick Red-breasted mergansers nest along the river Falls in the lower part of the river, beautiful paddlers up at Soper Lake for a 3 kilometre and in small lakes. Red-throated and Pacific rock outcrops, deeply incised caribou trails, drive into Kimmirut. The flow of water in the loons nest on lakes near the coast, and arctic interesting glacial landforms, superb shows of river is sufficient for paddling from early July terns can be seen along the river or at the wildflowers, and much more. On the lower through the end of August. The Soper River coast. Seabirds include thick-billed murres, Soper, where the river widens into a lake, guidebook provides detailed information black guillemots, and several gulls. about rapids, takeout spots, campsites, and park structures along the route, and between species. And snowmobiling, much reduces the risk, and experiences are always information as to how to arrange for drop- faster, is all about the rush and thrill of carving better when done with a guide who knows offs and pick-ups in the park. lines in the crystal landscape. the land, the stories, and the wildlife. Hikers, canoeists or rafters generally fly At the Kimmirut end of the park, the For more information on licensed operators in by chartered aircraft to landing sites Katannilik Park Centre and the Soper House providing access services or guide services in at Mount Joy or at Livingstone Falls, Gallery, located in the historic Dewey Soper the park, check the Nunavut Parks website and paddle the river or hike the trail to house, offer interpretive exhibits and displays at www.nunavutparks.com, or call the Kimmirut. Outfitters in Iqaluit will also of local art, plus frequent opportunities to Unikkaarvik Visitors’ Centre in Iqaluit take hikers by boat to the trailhead across meet the artists and purchase local treasures (867.979.4636) or the Katannilik Park Frobisher Bay, and the start of your hike to remind you of your trip. The staff at the Centre in Kimmirut (867.939.2416) for across the peninsula along the Itijjagiaq visitors’ centre keeps track of visitors to assistance or recommendations. Trail. The hike is rugged but beautiful, and the park and will also help arrange drop- For more information on Katannilik takes 5 to 7 days from Frobisher Bay to offs and pick-ups in the park. They will Territorial Park, the Itijjagiaq Trail, the Mount Joy, where hikers may pick up their also help visitors arrange for home-stay Katannilik Park Centre and Taqaiqsirvik canoes and paddle the rest of the river, or accommodations in Kimmirut. The new Territorial Park campground, check continue hiking into Kimmirut. Taqaiqsirvik Territorial Park campground the Nunavut Parks website at provides a place to camp in Kimmirut. Traveling through Katannilik Territorial www.nunavutparks.com, or call Nunavut Park is equally rewarding in spring. This is A trip to Katannilik Territorial Park is not Tourism at 1-866-NUNAVUT to request the season for snow travel, and all the thrills a casual day outing; it is necessary to plan the Nunavut Travel Planner, which lists all and challenges of dogteam, snowmobile or ski carefully to avoid problems with weather or licensed tourism operators, accommodations travel on the land, all possible on your own, or polar bears.