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The Cities and Cemeteries of Etruria

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The Cities and Cemeteries of Etruria Universitäts- und Landesbibliothek Tirol The cities and cemeteries of Etruria Dennis, George 1883 Chapter IV Monte Musino and Lago di Bracciano urn:nbn:at:at-ubi:2-12107 CHAPTER IV. MONTE MUSINO AND LAGO DI BKACCIANO. Nor rough nor barren are the winding ways Of hoar antiquity , but strewed with flowers.—T. Wartox. On Lough Neagh’s banks as the fisherman strays, "When the clear cold eve’s declining, lie sees the round towers of other days In the wave beneath him shining .— Moork. The next Etruscan town of any note in history northward from Yeii was Sutrium, but there is an intervening district, containing several sites of that antiquity, which merit the traveller’s atten¬ tion. Moreover, this district possesses much geological interest, for it contains no less than four extinct craters, three of them now lakes, and one, the Lago Bracciano, the largest sheet of water in Etruria after the Thrasymene and the “ great Yolsinian mere.” The high-road northwards from Storta pursues the line of the ancient Yia Cassia, of which I was unpleasantly reminded by the large blocks of basalt which had formed the ancient pavement, and were now laid at intervals by the side of the road —proh pudor !—to be Macadamised for the convenience of modern travellers. This is, alas, too often the case in Italy, where the spirit of utilitarianism is fully rife. If a relic of antiquity be convertible into cash, whether by sale or by exhibition, it meets with due attention ; but when this is not the case, nobody cares to preserve it—the very terms in which it is mentioned are those of contempt—it is il pontaccio —or, le muraccia —and “ worth nothing ; ” or, if it can be turned to any account, however base, the most hoary antiquity will avail it nought. Stones are torn from the spots thej'- have occupied twenty, or five-and-twenty centuries, where they served as corroborations of history, as elucidations of national customs, as evidences of long extinct civilisation, and as landmarks to the antiquary—they are torn CHAP . IV .] GALEKA —BACCANO. oo thence to be turned to some vile purpose of domestic or general convenience. This is not an evil of to-day. It existed under the old governments of the Peninsula as fully as under that of Victor Emmanuel. Let us hope that a government which pro¬ fesses to reverence and prize memorials of the past, will put a stop to such barbarous spoliations and perversions; or the ancient monuments of Italian greatness will ere long exist in history alone. Just after leaving La Storta, a road branches to the left towards Bracciano and its Lake. It follows nearly the line of the ancient Via Clodia, which ran through Sabate, Blera, and Tuscania, to Cosa. The first station on that Way bej^ond Veii was Careise, fifteen miles from Home, represented by the ruined and utterly deserted, but highly picturesque, village of Galera, which stands on a cliff-bound rock, washed by the Arrone, about a mile off the modern road. The only mention of Careise is made by Frontinus and the Itineraries , and there is no record of an Etruscan population here, yet there are said to be remains of ancient walls on the west of the town, and Etruscan tombs in the 2 cliffs around.1 The modem town dates ffrom the eleventh century, and wras a possession of the Orsini family, whose abandoned castle with the tall campanile form the most pro¬ minent features in this scene of picturesque desolation. Two miles beyond La Storta bring you to the Osteria del Fosso, a lonely way-side inn. The stream here crossed is that of I due Fossi, which washes the western walls of Veii. In the wood-hung cliffs around are traces of Etruscan tombs, part of the necropolis of that city. Seven miles more over the bare undulating Campagna to Baccano, the ancient Ad Baccanas, a place like many others in Italy , known to us only through the Itineraries , once a Homan Mutatio, and now a modern post-house, situated in a deep hollow, originally the crater of a volcano, and afterwards a lake, but drained in ancient times, by emissaries cut through the encircling hills. At the eighteenth milestone is one, cut through the rocky soil to the depth of about twenty feet, which Gell seems to think may have been formed in ancient times, but I believe it to be modern, and the work of the Chigi family, the territorial lords of Baccano.3 1 Front, de Aquaed. II ., p. 48. Gell, found that after receiving one or two II . v. Galeria. Nibby II., p. 92 . streamlets , it loses altogether its artificial 2 I followed it for some distance , and character, and so continues till it finds 56 MONTE MUSINO AND LAGO DI BRACCIANO. [chap. iv. Nothing like the Alban Emissary now exists in the hollow. On the height however towards Rome there are several cuniculi, which drain the water from an upper basin of the crater. They are carried through Monte Lupolo, a lofty part of the crater rim. Here are also a number of holes in the upper part of the hill, said to be of great depth, and called by the peasants t( pozzi,” or wells; probably nothing more than shafts to the emissaries. It was these passages that were mistaken by Zanchi for the cuniculus of Camillus, and which led him to regard this as the site of ancient Yeii. The lake is now represented by a stagnant pond in the marshy bottom of the crater, which makes Baccano one of the most fertile spots in all Italy—in malaria. Fortunately for the landlord of La Posta, summer is not the travelling season, or his inn would boast its fair reputation in vain. This neighbourhood in the olden time was notorious for robbers, so that the “ Diversorium Bacchante’’ passed into a proverb.3 Let the traveller still be wary; though he be in no peril of assault, he may yet fall a victim to some perjidus ccmpo, who thirsting for foreign spoil “ expects his evening prey.” * In the ridge of the surrounding hills are several gaps, marking the spots by which ancient roads entered the crater. On Monte Razzano, the hill above Baccano, are some ruins called, on dubious authority, Fanum Bacchi—though it is probable that the Roman mutatio derived its name from some such shrine. There is a large cave on the said Mount, which is vulgarly believed to contain hidden treasures. From the hills of Baccano, travellers coming from Florence are supposed to get their first view of Rome. But the dome of St. Peter ’s may be distinctly seen in the Campagna horizon, from the Monte Cimino, a distance of forty miles, or twice as far as Baccano. Two miles to the north of Baccano, and to the right of the road to Florence , lies Campagnano; the first view of which, with Soracte in the back-ground, is highly picturesque. It is a place of some size and importance, compared to other villages of the Campagna, and its position, and some caves in the neighbour¬ hood, seem to mark it as of Etruscan origin. A few Roman remains are to be seen in the streets. a natural vent from the crater at Madonna but , as they all sink towards the lake, del Sorbo, three miles to the south -east of they cannot be emissaries : they are either Baccano, where it forms one of the sources natural clefts , or they have been sunk for of the Cremera. I observed other deep roads. clefts opening upon it , and running 3 Dempster , de Etrur . Reg. II ., p. 161. towards the mountains in the same quarter; CHAP. IV.] MONTE MUSINO. 57 From Campagnano a path runs eastward, first through vine¬ yards, and then across a wide valley of corn, to Scrofano, five miles distant. This is a small secluded village, also of Etruscan origin, for the cliffs around it, especially to the west, are full of tombs ; among them are several columbaria. It lies at the foot of Monte Musino, that curious tufted hill which is seen from every part of the Campagna, and is thought to have been the site of ancient religious rites. The name Musino is generally supposed to be a corruption of the Ara Muticc, which was in the territory of Yeii,4 though some place the Ara at Belmonte, nearer the Flaminian Way.5 The hill is conical, of volcanic formation, the lower slopes being composed of ashes and scoriae, strewed with blocks of lava. It is ascended by broad terraces leading spirally to the summit, on which are the remains of a large circular structure, which, Gell suggests, may have been the Altar. There is also a large cavern near the summit, reported, like that of Monte Bazzano, to contain great treasures ; access to which is said to be debarred by an iron grating—so far within the mountain, however, that no one can pretend to have seen it. The clump of oaks and chestnuts which tufts the hill-top, is sacred from the axe, though the wood on the slopes is cut from time to time ; and the only explanation of this which I could obtain, was, that the said clump preserves Scrofano from the sea-wind, which is deemed unhealthy, and that, were it cut, the wind, instead of pursuing its course at a great elevation, would descend upon the devoted village.6 This seems so unsatisfactory, that I cannot but regard it as a modern explanation of an ancient custom, the meaning of which lias been lost in the lapse of ages and the change of religious faith.
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