Macedonia How Opposition ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR ‘Name’ Deal to the Ottomans +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] Faces Bumpy Nurtured Serbia’s - ISSN 1820-8339 1 Ride Ahead Homophobia BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 Page 8 Page 12

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Issue No. 254 Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, page 5 BELGRADE’S conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party NEW MAYOR BACKS E OLD PROJECTS Friday • June 13 2008 New city boss Zoran Radojicic is standing by his predecessors’ big infrastructure THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks

projects – despite continued questions “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. about whether they are worth the T money.

Filip RUDIC

nly one day after being construction of the subway as early as elected as the Serbian 2016. capital’s new mayor, Despite the party’s current pledge to Zoran Radojicic affirmed begin work in 2020, Belgrade’s urban his dedication to the in- plan does not deem this project a prior- Ofrastructure projects that he had inher- ity before 2021. ited from Belgrade’s previous adminis- The draft plan, which the city author- trations. ities presented in March, soon after the “Thanks to the dedicated work of Belgrade elections, states that construc- the previous administration, we will tion is scheduled to take place between have the honour of starting construc- 2021 and 2027, the daily Blic reported in tion of the Belgrade subway,” the daily March. Vecernje novosti quoted him as saying This was not the first administration on June 8. to pledge to provide Belgrade with an The previous administration, also underground railway. led by the nationally ruling Serbian Progressive Party, promised to start Continued on page 2 Zoran Radojicic, the new mayor of Belgrade, plans to continue controversial and expensive Photo: Beta infrastructure projects, inherited from Belgrade’s previous administrations.

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 3 BELGRADE SERBIA Continued from page 1 Motorists Block Roads Due to Fuel Price Hike Since June 8, motorists have been intermittently blocking roads across Serbia and demanding government The protests spread to Banja Luka in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Photo: Anadolu A protester in Novi Sad using the opportunity to play football Photo: Anadolu caps on fuel prices. on a blockaded street.

Srdjan GARCEVIC

rotests demanding lower fuel prices be- ment intervenes to reduce the fuel duty and cap gun on June 8, when motorists blocked the prices at 110 dinars (93 euros cents) per litre Belgrade’s main thoroughfares and for diesel and at 120 dinars (1 euro) per litre for Pbridges for one hour at 5pm, bringing unleaded petrol. traffic to a standstill. Serbia’s petrol prices are among the highest in the The blockades have since spread to roads and region due to high duties and taxes, and are only cities across the country, and although they have beaten by those in Albania and Greece. Following since varied in intensity and frequency, they are the public reaction in Serbia, similar protests have set to continue during morning and afternoon also been organised in Bosnia and Herzegovina and rush hours. Montenegro starting from June 10. The mass protest was sparked by a hike in fuel On this same day, Serbian President Alek- prices, which have increased between 6 and 7 per sandar Vucic accused the protesters in Serbia cent since the beginning of the year. The largest of being organised by “opposition leaders and increase was in the price of diesel, which rose by tycoons”. 11 dinars (9.3 euro cents) to about 162 dinars (1.37 Other government officials condemned the Architect Bakic says it is “ironic” that Prokop is named “Belgrade Centre”, when it is so far from the city. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic euros) per litre since January. protests, while the pro-government media ac- The protesters, who are organising themselves cused the protesters of “endangering the lives” of on social media, are demanding that the govern- other people. Belgrade’s New Mayor Backs Old Projects Traffic in Belgrade was brought to a stand-still during the first days of the protest. Photo: Anadolu

ack in 2010, when the launched by summer 2018; outgoing edly be used to install several smaller A separate problem for many trav- Democratic Party ran Bel- mayor Mali predicted completion by flagpoles at ten additional locations ellers is the poor alignment between grade, city hall said the first mid-2019. around Belgrade, according to a plan the arrival and departure times of the line would start running as However, by mid-June of this year, submitted in mid-2017. trains and the buses at the nearby early as 2012. the tender had not been initiated. The city authorities have defended bus station. Many passengers are left BThe underground railway is just one BIRN inquired about the status of the plan, insisting that “all major cities” stranded, waiting for hours to continue of several grandiosely planned pro- the project to Ski Resorts of Serbia but in the world fly national flags from giant their journeys. jects that have been delayed for years received no reply by the time of publi- flagpoles. It’s easy to cut Tied to the displacement of the cen- – some of which have been criticised by cation. And President Aleksandar Vucic, tral train station is the project to relo- experts as pointless. Meanwhile, some experts have also who initiated the idea, has rejected crit- the ribbon – but cate the adjoining main bus station for They include plans to erect a 120-me- challenged the purpose and cost of the icism as unpatriotic, saying that some international and intercity travel. This tre-high flagpole and install a cable car cable car, which has been put at around 15 of the critics appear to have a problem there is no work is even farther away from being com- connecting the banks of the river Sava. million euros by the former mayor Sinisa with the Serbian flag. pleted. Architect Dragoljub Bakic told BIRN Mali, as he told the press in January. Despite that, opposition politicians on real issues. A new central bus station was sup- that the city starts these projects “be- Traffic engineer Dragoljub Lukic told have condemned the idea as wasteful, posed to be built in New Belgrade, cause it’s easy to cut the ribbon – but the daily Danas that the gondola would while some have accused the ruling but although a conceptual solution there is no work on real issues”. have to carry as many as 400,000 pas- Progressive Party of wanting to plunder to the project was adopted in 2014, He says that instead of adding to the sengers a year at the price of seven eu- the city budget. construction has been significantly growing pile of prestigious construc- ros per ticket just to cover the operating Bakic called the ruling party officials delayed. tion projects, the city administration expenses. “urban bandits” who treat the capital as Former mayor Mali promised that should focus instead on more crucial In his view, this was completely unre- “loot” waiting to be plundered. work would start in May or June 2017, and problematic issues, such as a long- alistic, “since most tourists in Belgrade Meanwhile, this relatively simple but construction of the complex did needed overhaul of the sewage system. stay in central hotels and use tour bus- project, which according to initial plans Dragoljub Bakic not, in fact, begin until February this es for transport”. was due to be finished by spring 2018, Architect year. CABLE CAR PLANS STILL Dragoljub Bakic called the gondola remains in the planning phase. The delay means that the new bus SUSPENDED IN THIN AIR project a “charade” that was part of an station, estimated to cost around 25 “urbanist populism going on in Bel- WORK ON TRAIN STATION million euros, is unlikely to become Late in January, when he was a Pro- grade. DRAGS LAST DECADES started using it as the hub for all inter- operational by the projected date in the gressive Party candidate for the city as- “There would be nothing to see [from city trains. summer or autumn of 2019. sembly, Radojicic became acquainted the cable car], nor would it attract tour- The delays to the flagpole project, However, this project has continued The city government’s urgency to with the city’s plans to build a cable car ists,” he predicted. however, are nothing compared to the to experience turbulence. Soon after relocate both the main bus and train connecting the two banks of the river endless snags hitting the city’s longest the official declaration, the media start- stations appears linked to another Sava. GIANT FLAGPOLE TURNS running construction project, for a new ed homing in on the station’s deficient controversial construction project, the During the election campaign in Jan- INTO A TALL ORDER central train station, known as Prokop. infrastructure and leaking roofs, as well Belgrade Waterfront, that covers the uary, the then mayor, Sinisa Mali, pre- Work on this project has continued as its inconvenient location – much fur- area where both central train and bus sented the plan – designed to link the Another idea is to erect a 120-metre- with one interruption after another ther from the city centre than the old stations were located. landmark Kalemegdan fortress in the high flagpole. The poll, planned to be ever since 1974. station. That project, which aims to turn a old part of Belgrade with New Belgrade erected at Usce, the confluence of Dan- After decades of delays, the city au- Architect Bakic says it is “ironic” that rundown part of the city into an up- on the other side of the river – to Rado- ube and Sava rivers, is meant to fly the thorities led by the Progressive Party Prokop is named “Belgrade Centre”, scale cultural, entertainment, business jicic and the media. Serbian national flag and be visible have vowed to complete work on the when it is so far from the city centre. He and accommodation centre, has been Radojicic told a press conference from almost all parts of Belgrade. new railway station. called Prokop “a bad choice” in terms of plagued with controversy from the that the project would help to increase, If built, it would be the third tallest Although Aleksandar Vucic opened location. start. perhaps even double, the number of structure in the capital after the 141-me- the still unfinished station in 2016, In March, activists protested against Issues include unclear investment tourists visiting Belgrade each year, ter-high Usce and 135-metre-high Gen- trains did not actually start arriving in Prokop’s designation as Belgrade’s deals to the highly controversial from the one million recorded in 2017. ex towers. and departing from the station until a new main train station, despite which night-time demolition work carried Ski Resorts of Serbia, the state com- But the tall poll would come at a simi- year later. Prokop is due to become the hub for in- out in April 2016, when masked men pany put in charge of the project, said, larly high price – almost 1.7 million eu- Finally, in December 2017, the city ternational trains as of July 1. demolished several buildings in a in late 2017, that a public tender for ros, according to city officials. government officially named Prokop Construction is still underway, how- street where the Waterfront is due to construction of the cable car would be Another million euros would report- the main train station in Belgrade and ever. be built. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Serbia’s First Starbucks to Open in Belgrade Philharmonic According to announcements, US coffee giant Starbucks will open its first café in Belgrade by the end of this Offers 'Musical Picnic' year, after which cafés will open in other towns and cities. “This country Under the Stars has a rich history of coffee and we are looking forward to becoming part of As the orchestra plays “Thus Spoke it,” Adam Mularuk, head of Starbucks in brief Belgrade The Belgrade Zarathustra” by Richard Strauss, as at restaurant operator AmRest Holding, shown in the film 2001, “A Space Odys- told the media. According to reports, Philharmonic is there will be ten cafés in Belgrade – returning for another sey”, and “Short Ride in a Fast Machine” on Knez Mihailova, at the big malls by John Adams, audiences will enjoy and at the airport. City authorities said free open-air concert, footage of the earth. negotiations with Starbucks had been Later, the philharmonic will take au- going for almost a year before the this time featuring diences on a journey through the cos- decision was made public. NASA’s exclusive mos, with images taken by NASA’s new- est optical instruments, to the sounds New City Boss Lists of Dvorak’s popular “New World Sym- Major Plans images of the earth and cosmos. phony”. The capital’s recently elected au- “The Earth” and “The Cosmos” are thorities, led by Mayor Zoran Radojicic parts of the film series called “An HD and his deputy, Goran Vesic, have Ivana NIKOLIC Odyssey,” which was performed for the announced plans to solve some of first time by the Houston Symphony the burning issues facing the city, ans of classical music, visual per- Orchestra. The Serbian public will be including illegal construction, noise formances and a bit of cosmol- the first in Europe to see the “Cosmos” and overdue reconstruction. The most Fogy, should head towards New project. important plans include building a city metro as well as two new tunnels, Belgrade’s Blok 13 on Sunday, June 24, The first time the Belgrade Philhar- one connecting the Sava and Danube at 8:30pm. monic performed under the sky was rivers, the other linking Autokomanda The Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra on June 25 last year at the same loca- and Topcider. A total of 190 facades and its chief conductor, Gabriel Feltz, will tion, an event that attracted more than will be reconstructed, 70 of which are be performing “HD Odyssey” – playing 30,000 people from all over the region. in the centre of Zemun municipality. masterpieces of classical music accom- At the musical picnic, which was also Vesic also told the media that the city panied by images of the earth and the the biggest event of its kind in Serbian authorities will do everything to solve cosmos made by the US National Aero- history, audiences heard classical hits the noise problem that many citizens nautics and Space Administration, NASA. conducted by Gabriel Feltz and with in Stari Grad, Savski Venac and New Belgrade have been complaining While the orchestra plays, a huge vid- Zubin Mehta as special guest conductor. about. eo screen will show scenes of distant Like last June, the performance this Last year, the open-air concert attracted more Photo: Courtesy of Belgrade Philharmonic galaxies. year will also be free of charge. than 30,000 spectators. National Museum Finally Reopens After a 15-year reconstruction, Serbia’s most important museum, the Summer Festival Promises Month of Festivities National Museum, officially opens on June 28 at 9pm. After the ceremony on nearby Republic Square, the three- BELEF officially kicks off on Friday, BELEF also wishes to entertain On June 26 at 9pm at the Student storey building will open its doors free The traditional June 22 at 8pm, at Kombank Dvorana, younger visitors, so a number of events Cultural Centre you can enjoy the of charge for the following 24 hours, Belgrade Summer with a concert of the Chinese Interna- are dedicated to them, including “Pippi “Merak i Salsa” concert, while on June Miodrag Mitrovic, who owns a shop which fixes bags and suitcases, has been in Balkanska since 1950. Photo: Ivana Nikolic A traditional hat-maker in Balkanska. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic until June 29, at 10pm. The following tional Prodigy Orchestra and Choir, Longstocking” by Slovenia’s Plesni Teat- 29 you can head to the Belgrade City weekend, June 30 and July 1, en- Festival, known IPOC. The performance, which will be er Velenje, on June 23 at the Student Cul- Assembly Hall at 8pm and enjoy the trance will also be free, while normal conducted both by BELEF’s art direc- tural Centre at 11am, as well as “Planet of trio Domazetovic-Stankovic-Klenko- working hours will be extended, as BELEF, brings tor Aleksandar Ilic and by IPOC’s con- Secrets” [“Planeta Tajni”], which includes vski. In their place are mobile phone shops, a BIRN also contacted the City of Bel- running from 10am to 10pm. From Monday, July 2, the museum will work dozens of concerts, ductor Jin Fu, includes dance, theatre acting and ballet, on June 30, also at the Another classical music event, a mall, various cafés and clothing stores. grade for more information concerning and orchestral music. Student Cultural Centre at 11am. concert by the pianist Mina Ristic and Future Looks "Thanks to its cheap production, Chi- the announced plans but received no Tuesdays to Sundays and tickets will cost 300 dinars (around 2.5 euros). exhibitions and artistic “The programme of the orchestra According to organisers, one of the the violinist Isidora Dramicanin, will na played a big role in shutting down answer by the time of publication. For more information, visit www. performances to emphasises its distinctly international most interesting performances is “Buf- be held at the same place on July 2 at the artisan shops. Why get anyone to narodnimuzej.rs. character, which is in line with the rep- fet à vif” [“Smashed to Pieces”] by Festi- 8pm. Cloudy for fix bags and suitcases when they can LAST ‘SARAC' Belgrade audiences. utation of BELEF as an international val d'Avignon and Théâtre de la Bastille, The well-known Serbian band Nev- purchase a new one for less money?" LEAVES THE FIELD Public Transport Summer festival,” the organisers said in a press with the support of the French Iinstitute erne Bebe will hold a concert on June Mitrovic asks. You know, Timetable Commences release. in Serbia. It will take place on June 23 at 30 at 9pm at the Student Cultural Cen- City’s Fading To try to save what is left of the old whoever comes Meanwhile, the remnants of artisan From June 23, Belgrade will see a Ivana NIKOLIC IPOC’s repertoire thus includes such 9pm at the Student Cultural Centre. tre, while Dean Bowman will rock the artisan tradition, the city authorities shops in the cobblestoned street con- 20-per-cent decline in public transport composers as Russia’s Nikolai Rimsky- Another dance performance is on stage on July 11. recently announced they would gather to Belgrade, tinues to decrease. vehicles as the summer timetable nder the slogan “In the Heart of Korsakov, England’s Ralph Vaughan July 1 at the Student Cultural Centre, the Apart from theatre performances all the Belgrade craftsmen in Balkan- Milan Sarcevic, 72, a sarac in Serbian, BELEF“ (U Srcu BELEF-a), the Williams, America's Aaron Copland, Austrian “Wunderbare Jahre” [“Won- and concerts, BELEF audiences will ‘Artisan Street’ ska, making it an "artisan street" once or leather goods manufacturer, has de- comes into force. From that day, 1,036 th has to pass it. It buses, trams, trolleys, electro buses U27 installment of the much- France’s Georges Bizet and China’s derful Years”] by Dagmar Dachauer. have a chance to visit several exhibi- again. cided to close his shop, which opened and minibuses will work the streets loved Beogradski Letnji Festival lasts Mao Yuan. Fans of visual performances should tions, including “My Worlds“ [“Moji "Our idea is to proclaim Balkanska as is a route from in 1946. His brother ran it from the of the capital. Also, from June 23 from June 22 to July 15 at various loca- On the same night, many other meanwhile check out “Silver” by Is- Svetovi”] by Jelena Milosevic Jo- While city bosses talk optimistically of a street of old crafts," Belgrade City's for- 1950s, and Sarcevic joined him in 1985. onwards, five lines to Ada Ciganlija will tions across the city. prominent musicians will perform as rael’s Silver Dance Company at the Stu- vanovic, on June 29 at the Student Cul- mer manager and now Deputy Mayor, Ever since, Balkanska 36 has been be introduced. They will operate every the bus and weekend until September 1. For more Over three weeks, visitors can enjoy well, solo or with the orchestra, includ- dent Cultural Centre at 9pm on July 7. tural Centre. reviving the craft traditions of Belgrade’s Goran Vesic, told Pink TV on May 3. his second home. But in the mid-1990s, information about timetables and both classical and pop music as well as ing the Belgrade National Theatre’s BELEF is also famed for its numer- For more information about the fes- "All the shops there that belong to the train stations to business started to fall away and the schedules, visit www.gsp.rs. theatre performances from domestic primadonna, Jasmina Trumbetas ous concerts, which will be the case tival and the programme, visit www. famed Balkanska St, the number of City of Belgrade will be offered to those old maestro has chosen to retire. and international artists. Petrovic. this year as well. belef.rs. dealing with old crafts through the As he sits in his spacious workshop, artisans still plying their ancient trades Property and Legal Affairs Secretariat," Terazije, which surrounded by all sorts of tools and Vesic said, adding that the shops would handmade leather belts, casings, wal- there continues to fall. also all undergo a complete reconstruc- is where people lets and bags, Sarcevic laments that his Find your copy of ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR tion, including the façades. would go to look business belongs to a bygone era. +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] Ivana NIKOLIC But Mitrovic fears it is just the latest "We had clients from all over Yugosla- Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight and train stations to Terazije, which is in a series of unfulfilled promises to re- via. In the mornings they would knock know Balkanska Street, where people would go to look for a job vive the spirit of his street. for a job or sell on the door, begging me to open. And in I know all these streets or sell and buy goods," the old crafts- "I remember talk back in the 1950s the evenings I would always finish up around it," says Miodrag man points out. and 1960s that Balkanska would be- and buy goods. late. I couldn't throw them out," he says. Mitrovic, who fixes all sorts The communists eventually realised come something like Bascarsija in The "bloody" wars that pulled Yugo- MONUMENT HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL COURTYARD BY TOURIST ORGANISATION OF THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL of bags and suitcases, look- their idea for Balkanska: from the 1950s Sarajevo – a pedestrian zone with old slavia apart in the 1990s were one of the Kneza Milosa 5 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE ing"I out of the door of his shop. onwards, Balkanska truly became an shops," he said, referring to the Bosnian factors that contributed to the artisans' Address: Cika Ljubina 9 Address: MARRIOTT SERBIA Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 Address: Trg Republike 5 Address: Smetanina 12 Mitrovic, who is 70, talks about "the "artisan street". capital's popular old market area. downfall, he adds. HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL HYATT old Balkanska" with melancholy in his The steep cobbled street was filled "I hope they really do that," Mitrovic Another reason, Sarcevic continues, Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION RADISSON BLU voice. He has been here since 1950 and with small one-storey buildings, lean- adds, standing in his shop full of bags, is that younger generations are not in- Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE OLD MILL HOTEL remembers vividly the times when the ing on one another. Back in the day, you suitcases and backpacks, smiling. terested in continuing the old family Miodrag Mitrovic HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL CROWNE PLAZA Address: Kolarceva 3 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 new Yugoslav Socialist state was being could find literally every kind of trader However, there has been no further business. Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 SKVER 44 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade built. here: perfume makers, barbers, tailors, information concerning Vesic's May craftsman "Artisan shops started closing when Address: Pozeska 44a RESTAURANT BIZU "Before we came, an ethnic German bakers, leather good makers, bag repair- pledge. craftsmen started retiring, and no one CAFE SNEZANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 RESTAURANT DVA JELENA owned this shop. After the [Second ers, hat makers and more besides. "I've heard about the plans, but no from the family wanted to take over INTERGALACTIC DINER Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac Address: Skadarska 32 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 World] War, the then regime decided to Decades later, the street looks pretty one from the city administration has the business," Sarcevic recalls, looking Address: Skadarska 34 INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar place all artisans here, in this street, as much the same, but the vast majority of contacted us or come here to talk about promotes old crafts, pins hopes in the exhausted. KOLARAC Mihajla Pupina 85A BELGRADE it was sort of a transit zone," Mitrovic, the old craftsmen are long gone. the announced reconstruction," one promise. "As for me, personally I never wanted Address: Studentski trg 5 Address: Temisvarska 19 a bag-maker, or tasner, in Serbian, ex- Partly because no one wanted to take employee in the street, who wished to "There is a need for such a place, as my children to become sarac. This is an- plains. over the businesses, partly because of stay anonymous, told BIRN. it would help our colleagues and make ything but profitable," the old maestro, Address: Kolarceva 7 "Whoever comes to Belgrade has the rise of much cheaper industries, Dejan Milosavljevic, from the Na- their work and offer more visible," he who is closing the shop in two weeks' to pass it. It is a route from the bus only a handful of artisan shops remain. tional Association "Our Hands," which told BIRN. time, concludes. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 7 SERBIA BUSINESS COMMENT Transatlantic The Audacity of Being Trade War Out in Serbia Worries Balkan Steel Producers

Balkan states BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA fear their steel Bosnia exported iron and steel prod- ucts worth 8.4 million euros in the first industries may feel two months of 2018, Bosnia's Statistics Agency data show. the consequences Data from the same agency show Bosnia exported to Germany, Italy, Cro- of President atia, Serbia, Slovenia, Austria, Turkey, Montenegro, Holland and Hungary, in Trump’s trade terms of value. dispute with the Steel made up 43.47 per cent of the country's exports and comprised 4.24 EU, if European per cent of Bosnia's GDP. The sector involves 1,138 different buyers now have companies with 33,926 employees in the country. less need for ArcelorMittal Zenica is the largest steel exporter in Bosnia, according to Balkan steel. the Indirect Taxation Authority in Bos- nia, followed by Prevent Visoko and Aluminij Mostar. Mladen LAKIC Around 850,000 tons of steel is pro- Sinisa Jakov MARUSIC duced a year in Zenica, while Arcelor- Dusica TOMOVIC Mittal Zenica exports mainly to the Maja ZIVANOVIC countries of the former Yugoslavia, fol- lowed by Italy, Austria, Hungary, Roma- s the EU gears up to nia, Bulgaria, Albania, Greece, Turkey launch counter-meas- and other countries. ures to the streel and alu- minum tariffs imposed MACEDONIA by US President Donald Trump,A business experts and officials Metal production is one of the flagship from the Balkans say the dispute may industries of Macedonia, which pro- Although the situation has somewhat improved for Serbia’s LGBT community since 2001, there is still a long way to go to their full acceptance in the Serbian community. Photo: Beta have at least indirect consequences for duces around 400,000 tons of steel and Trump administration’s decision to introduce taxes on steel and aluminium imports from the EU, Canada and other Photo: AP/Beta economies in the region. aluminium a year, almost all for export. countries will have an impact on Balkan countries who count steel as one of their main exports. Being LGBT and sexuality in Serbia would make my that can ensue when they come out to unfair scorn and derision, they are While the region's EU member states The Macedonian Metallurgy Union, life miserable. to their families. What pains loosening the grip of fear on all us – face similar issues to other EU coun- part of the Economic Chamber of Mac- gorica, KAP, and Toscelik in the town Italy, and Russia. The report, published tees that Macedonia would be exempt- Headstrong as any teenager would Their sexuality, or rather the unfair and allowing us a glimpse of how we tries, experts expect an indirect impact edonia, says more than 60 per cent of of Niksic, the former state-owned com- in October 2017, said the annual ex- ed from any EU measures affecting im- out in Serbia is be when confronted with parental stigma placed on it, complicates their can all be a bit freer and bit more cou- also on Bosnia, Macedonia, Montene- the country's steel and aluminium ex- pany Steelworks Niksic. ports of the company amounted to ports of steel. disapproval, I wrote the article and daily lives, from considerations about the LGBT rageous in the way we go about things. gro and Serbia – all of whose top five ports go to Europe; only insignificant Exports of mineral ores increased by about 100 million euros. The head of Macedonia's Metal- still a matter of submitted it to my teacher who was in which cafe they can sit in and chat frank- Although this sort of courage is nec- export products include steel. amounts are exported to the US. up to 78.9 per cent compared to 2016. lurgy Union, Mitko Kocovski, told BIRN charge of the newspaper. ly with their loved ones to having to care- community essary everywhere, it is essential in They explain that the EU market – the Official data show the metal indus- Aluminum plant KAP, now facing the FALLOUT FEARED FROM that US restrictions on imports of steel courage. Again, rather than getting a pat on fully judge how open they can be with Serbia, where the increasingly mer- main market for most Balkan steel ex- try in recent years has made up 25 to bankruptcy before the court in Pod- EU-US TRADE DISPUTE and aluminium would not directly af- the back, there was an uncomfort- anyone they meet or work with. Rather more than a cantile-cronyist system places little porters – may face an oversupply, as its 35 per cent of Macedonia's exports; the gorica, is still the biggest single exporter fect Macedonia. However, he said US able silence and an explanation that than being respected for who they are, value on integrity and disproportion- producers reduce exports to US, leav- steel industry contributes 5.7 per cent in the country. Last year, it exported Officials in Serbia and Macedonia measures might hit local production it would not appear in the newspaper they are pilloried, or, worse, pitied. priest blaming ately rewards conformity. ing little room for non-EU Balkan steel. of Macedonia's GDP. 42,000 tons of aluminum, worth have meanwhile voiced concern about indirectly by disturbing the EU market, Srdjan GARCEVIC because "it is not appropriate". It was What pains them more than a priest Indeed, there are many people in The European Commission on June The country's biggest producer is around 70 million euros. Total steel ex- the potential consequences of the US- which is Macedonia's main target for shelved, replaced by lyrics to some blaming gays for environmental disas- gays for Serbia, of all sexualities, shapes and 6 announced plans to introduce tariffs Makesteel. Other notable firms are Ar- ports earned about 40 million euros. EU trade dispute. exports. y first experience pop song. ters (yes, that happened in 2014), is the sizes, who are brave in their own ways, on more than 2 billion euros worth of celor Mital Skopje, Dojran Steel, 11 Ok- Uniprom company, which now owns When Donald Trump first an- "Every closure of one market may of how deeply un- Seventeen years later, even with- message that many of them all too fre- environmental but my mind and heart often goes US goods as of July. tomvri and FZC Kumanovo. a majority of shares in KAP, also man- nounced plans to introduce tariffs on influence other markets and the comfortable Serbian out my self-righteous, angsty article, quently get from their social environ- back to my LGBT friends, who serve as The decision is a response to the ages the bauxite mine in Niksic, which steel and aluminum in March, Serbian global producers there… What is even society is with non- things may have changed for the bet- ment, that they will always be outcasts. disasters… is daily examples of resilience and grit, Trump administration's decision one MONTENEGRO is the country's main exporter to China. Trade Minister Rasim Ljajic said that more worrying is that our steel indus- standard sexualites ter. But society's basic unease with a Sadly, but unsurprisingly, some of whenever I feel I need it. week earlier to introduce taxes on steel In 2017, the company exported 1.1 mil- while Serbia would not be directly af- try has no alternative markets that Mand genders came in the days after the diversity of sexuality and gender re- my LGBT friends got fed up and de- I hope Serbia will not only learn to and aluminum imports from the EU, Aluminum and steel make up al- lion tons of bauxite. fected, as it does not export to the US would offer a way out of this situa- the message bloody debacle of the first Belgrade mains. cided to leave Serbia and seek places tolerate all of its daughters and sons, Canada and other countries, in a bid – most fifth of the country's total exports. due to high transport costs, it might feel tion," he said. Pride Parade in 2001 – a mixture of While we have an out prime minis- where they can love freely, even if that many of but also be proud of the courage of Washington says – to protect domestic Economy Ministry data show this sec- SERBIA indirect consequences. In Bosnia, Zoran Pavlovic, an econo- hooligans and ruffians of all stripes ter, an out Eurovision winner, and our they were living here in relatively pro- those who lived their lives freely in re- producers. tor represents the main sector of the "A larger amount [of steel] may ap- mist in Banja Luka, voiced similar con- attacked and injured more than 40 normally campy pop-culture even tected liberal circles. them all too cent years, unwilling to betray them- manufacturing industry, responsible Steel and iron were Serbia's third pear on the EU market, which could cerns. "In a position when the main attendees who believed that the free- produced out reality show contest- Many however, stayed, and day af- selves despite the risks. STEEL TOPS BALKAN for almost 40 per cent. largest export goods in the first four probably affect the price, because the partner is Germany and other EU coun- dom to love whom you choose would ants, being out and out of the limelight ter day they fight to live and love a bit frequently get Belgrade would certainly be a much EXPORT CHARTS Documents adopted by the gov- months of 2018, according to Serbia's offer may be higher than the demand," tries, Bosnia might be faced with a lack come hand in hand with political free- still requires great courage and con- more freely, one small battle at a time. better place if more people took to ernment in April say the mining and Statistical Office, amounting to 311 mil- he told Tanjug news agency on March of exports if those countries decide to doms following the fall of Milosevic. frontation with society-wide preju- While, thankfully, there are growing heart the words of Igor Dobricic, one The International Trade Centre, a quarrying sector recorded production lion euros. 9. import less due to the latest events," he I was just entering my teens, so I dice. pockets of Serbian society where their from their social of the attendees of that first Belgrade multilateral agency that provides trade growth of 113.9 per cent in 2017 com- Serbia's Beta news agency reported In Macedonia, steel producers re- told BIRN. didn't experience it on the streets, but Rather than strong condemnation personal lives are not an issue and the Pride in 2001 and who was severely technical assistance across the globe, pared to 2016, much of which relates to in February that HBIS GROUP Iron & cently called on their government to However, some experts say con- in my very liberal Belgrade home, and action, occasional physical at- LGBT going-out scene is booming, I can- environment, beaten up: "If, out of fear, I must sacri- ranks Serbia in 48th place on a list of production growth of 200 per cent in Steel was the biggest exporter in Janu- urge the EU to exempt Macedonia from cerns about the impact of the EU-US when I told my father I intended to tacks on LGBT people, to say nothing not but be inspired by their courage, per- fice my human dignity and my right to world steel and iron exporters. Mac- the area of metal exploitation. ary 2018, selling goods worth 70.4 mil- any steel counter-measures. trade feud are overblown. write a student newspaper piece of off-colour remarks by public figures, haps even more than I am disappointed that they will be who I am, I would rather kill myself, edonia follows in 58th place, Bosnia in According to the latest official data lion euros. They argue that while Macedonian Serbian economic journalist Misa Br- about the unfairness of the state, soci- still produce deafening silence. by the fact such courage is still necessary. than live and hide". 65th and Montenegro in 99th place. that BIRN has obtained, from Janu- The steel mill in Smederevo was steel makes up less than 1 per cent of kic says transatlantic tariffs row won't ety and the Serbian Orthodox Church Perhaps even more painful than This very diverse bunch of people, always be The World Steel Association's report, ary to April 2018 alone, Montenegro sold for 46 million euros to the second the EU's total imports of steel, and is have much influence on the small Bal- towards the LGBT population. the lack of public support for LGBT who I am a lucky to have gotten to know "World steel in figures 2018", ranked exported more than 32 million eu- largest steel producer in the world, Chi- insignificant for the EU, the sales are kan economies. Though a tolerant guy, he immedi- rights or any progress on the issue in various ways, are arming themselves outcasts. Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a Serbia in 46th place in 2017. ros worth aluminum and steel to the nese firm He Steel Group, in April 2016. key to the survival of the local indus- "The Balkans is [only] a powder keg ately blanched and explained to me, of same-sex partnerships, are the daily to withstand the slurs, the nasty founder of The Nutshell Times blog. While Balkan countries cannot EU and China. Base metals export One of the biggest aluminium pro- try. in a political sense, not in an economic concerned and in no uncertain terms, private challenges that my LGBT jokes and threats of violence and exclu- those of us who do not share their compete with world's major steel pro- amounted to more than 25 million eu- ducers in Serbia is Impol Seval, owned However, after a meeting in Brussels one, because the economies of the Bal- that while I certainly had a point, I, a friends face, which routinely include sion, and to fight for they know is right: sexuality or the stigma associated The opinions expressed in the Com- ducers, steel is still one of the most im- ros, while steel exports earned almost by the Slovenian company Impol. on June 7 with the European Com- kan states are minor," he told BIRN. "I boy of 13, should not want to associate anything from not knowing how to to follow their hearts. with it. ment section are those of the authors portant earners for the economies of 7.5 million euros. According to the website E-kapija, missioner for Trade, Macedonia's Vice don't see Serbia producing enough for with "that" and "risk being labelled", answer who they are dating at large What we too often forget, howev- By showing that an individual shall only and do not necessarily re ect the Bosnia, Macedonia, Montenegro and The sector in Montenegro is mostly which specialises in business report- Prime Minister, Bujar Osmani, warned this situation to shake the market," he because the stigma attached to homo- gatherings, to the emotional turmoil er, is that they are fighting even for not only withstand, but also stand up views of BIRN. Serbia. represented by Aluminium Plant Pod- ing, the company exports to Germany, that Skopje did not receive any guaran- added. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 9 REGION FACES About town with… Belgrade Drag Star ALEXIS TRAUSSI Channels Spirit of Alexis is a New York native, work- ing right here at Belgrade Insight and a proud Weimar Cabaret member of the city's burgeoning LGBTQIA+ com- Part of the new munity. wave on Serbia’s BREAKFAST burgeoning drag scene,

Over the past two Dekadenca years, I have lived in Belgrade draws inspiration on and off for about a year and half, and navigating the search for safe spaces for from everything members of LBGT community has been an around her – from integral part of my exploration of the city. While this is usually at the forefront, I also pre-war Germany fell absolutely in love with savoury break- fasts at pekare (bakeries), and the best to the women in kiflice (mini cheesy-pastries) I have found the local bank. is at Pekara Rankovic an old, traditional bakery right next to the Kalenic green Alexis TRAUSSI market at Maksima Gorkog 5. If you are xuberant, eloquent and com- looking for a restaurant, breakfast/brunch- pletely versed in all things option and queer-friendly place, head over Hollywood, Dekadenca is to Kozmeticar, which is also in the Vracar first a foremost an actor. neighbourhood at Radoslava Grujica 25. She can rattle off names of Eold-school actresses at a rapid pace in Plop down onto one of their velvet arm- which you can easily get lost. Shake- President Gjorge Ivanov is likely to refuse to sign the ratification. Photo: AP Zaev told a TV debate in Macedonia that he was ready to put his career on the line to convince people to Photo: AP chairs, and relax with a cappuccino and an support a good solution in a referendum. spearian soliloquies roll off her tongue omelette. only moments after discussing her on- stage lip-syncing performances. To say Dekadenca is larger than life is to only Dekadenca, both in drag and out, is infatuated with Photo: Courtesy of Dekadenca everything linked to cabaret. LUNCH better understand what she is trying to Macedonia ‘Name’ Deal do with her drag. However, her once entirely thought- to be a woman, but that is why it is that Growing up and living in Belgrade, her out character is changing right before her much more important to fight the patriar- path to the art form took shape in the eyes. chy," she continues. When I was studying here and lived in the classical theatre school she attended, Le "At first, I had this idea of a Weimar Ger- For Dekadenca, the battle against this Faces Bumpy Ride Ahead city centre, La Petite Cantine (Dobracina Studio, now in Dorcol, where she offered many cabaret singer and she was forever omnipresent system is the culmination to play Mama Morton in the 1975 musical, 45 because I believe that is the best age for of the subtler intersections of drag and 19) had just opened its doors. Now, it’s Chicago. a woman and she was this raunchy plus- politics. She believes that subversive ac- end of one of the toughest bilateral dis- For this move, Zaev's government bour makes the required constitutional plan B, which could involve staging a quick, go-to lunch option that offers a "I was preparing the male role [Billy sized cabaret singer in pre-war Germany." tivism is a more astute strategy than plain Numerous putes in Europe's recent history. will not be hard pressed to muster a changes, adopting the new name. early general elections, which would great selection of French pastries, sand- Flynn, the lawyer] but a month before But her once fixed idea about the char- politics when it comes to encouraging obstacles could Several further steps for its practical simple majority in parliament. If matters go smoothly, following this also have the character of a plebiscite wiches and quiches. Plus, the two French [the show opened] the girl who was sup- acter began to shift as Dekadenca worked awareness of the humanity of the LGBT implementation will follow through- However, judging by his initial re- development, the EU Council of Minis- on the name deal. founders are super friendly and speak both posed to play Mama Morton realised she and performed with more and more peo- community. out the rest of this year, including the sponse, President Gjorge Ivanov is like- ters, at its meeting in June 25-26, should couldn't do it and they were like: 'Who ple – and that led to her implementing "I think [drag] is more provocative and yet prevent the French and Serbian! While you are in the still uncertain ratification of the deal by ly to refuse to sign the ratification. send a positive recommendation for FINAL STEPS EXPECTED can step in?' I said: 'I can.' So, that was my "more of my personal daily interests into it gives non-queer people an opportunity long awaited both parliaments and an even riskier This would prolong the process and Macedonia to start accession talks. BEFORE YEAR'S END neighbourhood, and if you are in need of a first time in proper drag, singing live and what I am doing with Dekadenca, so it to see something queer, but then human- referendum on the deal in Macedonia, require a second parliamentary ratifi- On July 11, at the next NATO summit, new book, walk over to Apropo (Cara La- that kind of marked my aesthetics and in- kind of started fusing with my daily per- ise it in a way," she says. ‘name’ deal which will put Zoran Zaev's govern- cation, which, according to most legal Macedonia should also get an invita- Assuming a successful referendum zara 10). The cosy shop doubles as a café, spired what I am doing with drag." sona," she explains. This also extends to the ways in which ment to the test. experts, the President will have to re- tion to join the Atlantic alliance, also on outcome, Macedonia's government at is home to three cats and is a safe space For almost six years, Dekadenca has Everywhere Dekadenca goes provides drag is received in Belgrade. With no ex- between Greece On Monday, just one day before an- spect. condition that it changes its constitu- the end of the year will have a green been crafting her drag persona, hosting her with insight for her drag and perfor- plicit history of cross-dressing in the Bal- for LGBT people. nouncing that the deal was struck, Zaev However, the law does not say when tion. light to finally make the most divisive poetry events, live performances, festi- mances, even queuing at the bank. kans, she explains, drag in Belgrade "is not and Macedonia told a TV debate in Macedonia that he the President should sign the ratifica- concession envisaged in the deal. vals, independent theatre shows – and in "I am just fascinated with the everyday intrinsically connected with LGBT move- from coming to was ready to put his career on the line tion, allowing him to maintain a so- RESULT OF POPULAR VOTE This is to change the constitution in addition to studying at Belgrade's Faculty women, like the women who work in ments and LGBT history". Therefore, peo- to convince people to support a good called "pocket veto" by keeping the IS HARD TO CALL order to adopt the name "Republic of DINNER of Applied Arts. Through this process, she banks and how stern they are but actu- ple here don't always react to drag within fruition. solution in a referendum. document unsigned. North Macedonia" and inform other developed Dekadenca as an extension of ally, deep down, they are warm. You can the context of the queer community. "I am fully aware that I and my gov- This could complicate matters from Arguably, the hardest test for the countries that have already recognised her personality, utilizing hyper-feminini- see them glowing when someone gives She once recalled a time when she ernment are entering a cloud of a sort, a legal standpoint as experts are divid- agreement, and for the Macedonia the name "Republic of Macedonia" of ty to express herself to a larger audience – them some attention, they crave atten- was performing in a cafe, and the waiter, Sinisa Jakov MARUSIC and where we'll end up after that, I don't ed over whether a second ratification government behind it, will be the ref- the change. At this point in the day, I would probably which is what she believes is the essence tion because people are god-awful and who seemed "grumpy and eerily hetero- know. We may end up atop a sea and would be legal without the President's erendum that Zaev announced for late Under Macedonian law, a constitu- be wandering back home from work or of drag. are in a hurry, and I just love those every- sexual" was entranced by the show and he expected signing of drown, or we may end up on a green signature. September or early October. tional change requires a two-thirds the gym to go make dinner, but if you’re Ten years ago, there was only one drag day working women." enjoyed it as much as the people who had the long awaited "name" field where everything is the way we On Wednesday, Ivanov said he For it to succeed, more than half of majority in the 120-seat parliament – queen in Belgrade, Viva La Diva. Now, Of course, a fair share of divas has in- sought the show out. too exhausted to cook, another place to deal between Macedonia like. But one thing I know, Macedonia would not support a deal that requires Macedonia's registered voters will have which the government does not have. there are up to two dozen queens in the formed Dekadenca's persona as well. Liza Her performances reflect this ap- and Greece will be just will end up on the highway towards EU constitutional change. to cast ballots, and more than half of "We are convinced that if the will of have a meal for LGBT and straight people city and the number is growing due to the Minnelli, Divine, [Harris Glenn Milstead] proachable sensibility; she "dabbles" in the first in a series of care- and NATO… towards a better future," Earlier that day, he refused to speak those will have to support the agree- the people for the deal is clearly shown alike is Restoran Tri (Kosovska 51). Tucked popularity of the American TV show Ru- the late drag queen who starred in many live singing. Even though she proclaims Tfully planned steps on the potentially Zaev said. with Prime Minister Zaev and Foreign ment. at the referendum, the opposition will into the back courtyard space of a larger Paul's Drag Race. Over the past two years, of John Waters' films, and was a pioneer herself to be only a "decent" singer, con- bumpy road towards its implementa- As the full content of the agreement, Minister Dimitrov who came to his of- One of the key points for the turnout have no more arguments to block the building, this restaurant serves a variety Dekadenca's career took off from doing in the LGBT movement during the 1980s, trol of this medium adds to the profun- tion. said to be contained in some 20 pages, fice intending to elaborate on the agree- will be whether the main opposition process," the same government source about three drag shows a year to at least and Gloria Swanson all informed the dity of a show as well as to the multitudi- of Serbian-inspired food that isn’t too Unofficially, the signing ceremony is not yet known, government sources ment. The meeting ended in only two VMRO DPMNE party, which has called told BIRN under condition of anonymity. once a month in cafés and clubs all over grandeur that Dekadenca encapsulates. nous nature of drag. between the Macedonian and Greek in Skopje told BIRN that the way for- minutes, the government said. the agreement "a defeat in disguise", If Macedonia successfully sur- heavy. If you are looking to have a drink, my Belgrade. But, in the end, she says, "there isn't "It is an interesting intersectional per- Foreign Ministers, Nikola Dimitrov and ward will be charted in several key will call on its supporters to vote, or mounts all these obstacles, the last mat- friends have recently been DJing at Kafe Dekadenca, both in drag and out, is in- much difference between a woman formance art because [drag] can be inter- Nikos Kotzias, in the presence of both steps that both sides need to take in or- UNLOCKING EU AND NATO urge them to boycott it. ter that will remain before the year's Supa (Jug Bogdanova 17b), a cosy place fatuated with everything linked to caba- working in a bank and Joan Crawford." esting to elitist, snobbish, educated peo- Prime Ministers, is expected to happen der to seal the deal. Another key point will be whether end will be for the Greek parliament to ret. From books to films and plays, she This keen attention to women also ple if you put in a good reference or pun, ACCESSION that is hidden on a much louder street. If in or around June 16 in the border re- popular support for Zaev's new govern- ratify the agreement as well – and for seems to know everything worth know- informed her understanding of gender but then again, it can be something fun you are looking to go out, party or dance gion of Prespa. PRESIDENT EXPECTED TO If Macedonia finds a legal way to ratify ment, which came to power last year af- NATO to put in effect its offer to grant ing about this subgenre of theatre. inequality. "Doing drag gave me an oppor- for an 'ordinary' person who just wants Amid sharply divided opinions OBSTRUCT RATIFICATION the deal, Greece is expected to make the ter a prolonged political crisis, translates membership to Skopje. the night away, KPTM (Zorza Klemansoa It also is the driving force of her per- tunity to have a glimpse into what it is to to see someone interesting perform," she about the agreement, under which next move by sending letters to NATO into support for the agreement as well. For that to happen, Prime Minister 22) hosts a number of queer parties and sona; Dekadenca's name stems from the be a woman in a patriarchal society," she considers. Macedonia is to change its name into According to Macedonian govern- and the EU, informing them that it no Zaev did not give a precise answer Alexis Tsipras needs a majority in the KC Grad (Brace Krsmanovic 4) and Gastro 1972 musical drama film Cabaret – a cult recalls. Through it all, she has found it "impor- "Republic of North Macedonia" in ex- ment sources, after the signing of the longer objects to "North Macedonia's" about what would happen if the refer- Greek parliament, where he will have film in her home – in which the charac- "People constantly tend to comment tant, at least, if I don't have any other idea or Bar 20/44 (Ulica Skadarska 40b) host change for swift accession to NATO and deal, the first move will be expected membership of these organisations. endum fails. to count on support by some smaller ter Sally Bowles, who was played by Liza on and put criteria on the female body, notion or philosophy of why I am going on start of EU accession talks, the signing from the parliament, which, should The Greek side insists that this will be However, media in Macedonia and parties that are not part of his govern- parties and a number of drag shows with Minnelli, repeats the phrase "Divine deca- and I kind of had contact with that by do- stage, at least, I want to entertain people." ceremony is only the beginning of the vote on its approval later in June. put into full effect only once its neigh- Greece mention the possibility of a ment. local queens. dence!" ing drag. I am not saying I know what it is "I think I am kind of pulling that off." 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Rave at Kragujevac’s old Belgrade Insight: Arsenal Sommelier’s corner Arsenal Fest is an open-air Summer Escapes BISTRO GRAD summer music festival founded HOMETOWN in 2011. From June 21 to June 23, attendees have the oppor- FOOD tunity to hear from 44 different on the Edge of Belgrade Corner Wine artists on three stages: the Decent wines in Main Stage, the Garden Stage, a pleasant bistro and the Explosive DJ stage. You don’t need a ambiance Some of this year’s headlin- ers are English rock band plane ticket to get Pavle GOLICIN Editors, Scottish pop rock band Else? Where away from the heat Texas, and English electronic dvertised as Belgrade’s finest band Morcheeba, performing hometown bar and restaurant, June 21, 22, and 23, respec- and bustle of the Bistro Grad certainly raised tively. The festival is held in Aexpectations before a visit. Its the former Serbian capital capital: Belgrade’s location in the city centre and the pleas- ant atmosphere that we encountered of Kragujevac, today known outer limits have inside gave an added boost to our thirst mainly for its car industry. Back and hunger. in the mid-1800s, a gun factory plenty to offer. The first impression of the wine list, opened in this area, starting an however, was a little disappointing. industrial revolution in Serbia The list includes some 30 labels and and so lending the festival its lacks depth for a good bistro. Only a few local wines are present – seven to be pre- name. Arsenal Fest embraces Srdjan GARCEVIC cise. The rest of the offer is focused on the the history of Kragujevac; the Mediterranean, mostly on Italy. There are Main Stage uses modern light s summer approaches no “New World” wines on the list at all. and sound systems alongside and temperatures rise, Moreover, the list is not easy to grasp. architecture from a 19th-centu- Although short descriptions are given for Belgraders become each wine, in my opinion this is unneces- ry ammunition factory to create restless to escape the a unique feel. You can buy tick- sary, especially when there is no consist- congested streets and ency in offering essential information ets online at www.arsenalfest. sizzlingA pavements of the capital. about the wine. For example, sometimes rs for 1,500 dinars (13 euros) Thankfully, they need not go far: there the names of the grape varieties are given for one day or 2,500 dinars (20 and sometimes not; for certain labels euros) for three days. are plenty of hidden gems within reach there is information about the region; for to satiate your wanderlust if strapped others, not. The typos don’t help. Zajecar hosts 52nd for time or money to venture further. In total, 12 wines are available by the Rock Festival glass. Bistro Grad has a house wine, and GROCKA'S a basic line of wines by Masciarelli, a well-known producer from the Abbruzzo Gitarijada, or “Guitar Fest”, is ARCHEOLOGICAL region in Italy. held from June 28 to June 30 TREASURES These are red Montepulciano in Zajecar. One of the oldest D’Abruzzo, white Trebbiano D’Abruzzo, music festivals in Southeast A 40-minute drive east from central and rosé Rosato Colline Teatine, made 100 per cent out from Montepulciano Belgrade, spread over hills above the Europe, it has taken place grapes, so anyone can choose their every year since 1966. Gi- Danube, Grocka has been a popular colour, according to preference. tarijada is the biggest festival place for Belgraders to build weekend Although these are classic wines of promoting and showcasing the retreats since the early 20th century. that region, it is questionable why “big” la- talents of unsigned rock bands. Though mostly visited for week- bels such as Villa Gemma – which made Gianni Masciarelli famous and became Bistor Grad is designed with a sense of humour, which cleverly introduces original details, such as colorful vintage objects and neon light accents, into the industrial shell. Photo: Courtesy of Bistro Grad The main part of the festival end chilling and grilling sessions with is a competition between a landmark for the company and the friends, Belgrade's easternmost mu- whoale Abbruzzo region over the years – unsigned acts, but there are nicipality does not only boast a quaint are not also included. also performances by globally town centre dotted with traditional Before coming to Bistro Grad, I famous names. This year’s buildings. It is also an archaeological checked its website, which said that red L’Oustalet from the Rhône region in Bistro Grad: Urban headliners include the British treasure-trove, thanks to its position on France – which I like but haven’t tasted rock musician Billy Idol and the ancient road that followed the Dan- heavy metal band Saxon. Over for some time – is available by the glass. ube and connected Europe with the It turned out that the list on the website the first two nights, attendees is not updated and that this wine is not dining done well Middle East. will hear from the semifinalist The greatest of the finds is located available by the glass or by the bottle. bands, and on the third night This left me with only one option, which in Vinca, where Serbian archaeologists style, with rough brick walls and ex- dish would be as a small bite to accom- cookies. We decided to sample them on they will listen to the finalists. was to order the L’Oustalet white, which A stone’s throw found traces of a Neolithic settlement is available by the bottle. On a nice sum- posed construction and installation el- pany evening drinks. another occasion, with a cup of coffee. The audience will decide their Kosmaj’s moument to WWII uprising is sure to impress Yugoslav architecture enthusiasts. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic favourite band, and a judging dating as far back as 5,300 BC. The mu- mer day, it was not a bad choice and it ements. However, this place stands out The first of our mains, homemade Our time in Bistro Grad was pleasant. seum on the site, which displays an- went well with the starters. from Knez from the crowd. It is designed with a sausages, was excellent. Made from The atmosphere was casual, vibrant committee will select a winner White L’Oustalet is an organic wine, as nd cient artefacts, is open daily from April tion – an enchanting view over the Dan- that will surely take your breath away. Its goslav modernism given it hosts one sense of humour, which cleverly intro- a fermented and then air-dried mix- and international, with soft, smooth for the 52 Gitarijada who is the red one, made by the eminent fam- to October, except on Mondays. But it ube – makes it well worth a stop. ornate bell-tower and magnificent dome of the most striking (and photogenic) Mihailova and duces original details, such as colorful ture of beef and pork, it was chopped electronica playing at the back. The will receive full production of ily Perrin. They come from the Southern their album. Admission is free. is best to check the opening hours and recall the great romanticism of the era. WWII monuments in Serbia. It is also Rhône valley and fully reflect the local Kralja Petra, Bistro vintage objects and neon light accents, coarsely enough to build a nice, strong staff were polite, kind and attentive and Gitarijada also offers free ac- availability of tours by calling +381 11 ARCHITECTURE But it is the cavernous interior that really only an hour's drive from the city. terroir. The white is a 50-50 blend of into the industrial shell. The result is ec- texture. The sausages were grilled just also originally styled – the waitresses commodation in its own Rock 806 53 34. AND BUREK IN PANCEVO impresses, its walls covered with magnifi- Designed by Vojin Stojic and Gradmir two typical varieties for that region, lectic, fun and memorable. enough to bring out the flavour, and not wore loose black summer dresses of Camp with daily meals during You can also unleash your inner Lara cent, if decaying, wall- paintings vividly Medakovic in 1971, this dramatic, star- Marsanne and Viogner. This pale white Grad hits the spot Just one look at the menu and the ruin the body, and were served with an interesting bell-shape cut. The qual- wine, fruity and to some extent floral on Croft or Indiana Jones by dropping by a Better known for toxins than tourists retelling stories from the Bible. The icon- shaped monument commemorates same smart approach can be noticed. soft and smooth, beautifully seasoned, ity of the food could match some of the the festival. Reserve your spot the nose, and delicate and balanced on with an innovative in Rock Camp at www.gitari- rarely-visited Roman tomb, dating from due to well-publicised leaks from a lo- ostasis is arguably one of the finest exam- the Partisan uprising against the Nazis the palate, shows all the characteristics The menu is obviously well thought roasted potatoes. Belgrade’s best [and much more expen- jada.rs/rock-kamp-2. the 3rd or 4th century AD, in the village cal industrial complex, Pancevo is one ples of late 19th century Serbian church art, of July 7, 1941. Though the monument of Viogner, one of my favourite white through and carefully designed to cater Lamb a la Matignon, a leg of New sive] restaurants. of Brestovik. Found by accident in 1895 of Serbia's more underrated attractions. designed by two of the foremost Serbian shows signs of neglect, it remains a grape varieties – the aromas of apricots menu and great for today’s urban customer – healthy Zealand lamb served with thyme- Bistro Grad is an urban, trendy place, Global Sounds at when a villager was tilling his land, the Though officially not part of the capital, architects of the period, Milorad Ruvidic popular hiking and picnic destination, and honeysuckle, followed by medium- and hearty breakfasts, local specialties flavoured polenta and blanched baby where a genuine, original spirit and a true Etnofest in Subotica to-full body and finish. Harmonious and execution. tomb's main hall is wonderfully pre- Pancevo's proximity (a 30-minute drive and Branko Tanazevic, and painted by the especially as the peak of Mt Kosmaj thirst-quenching! with a twist, favourites from grand- spinach, is by far the priciest item on understanding of hospitality stand be- served. You can still see the ancient or a Beovoz ride) means it functions as aforementioned Uros Predic. cannot be reached due to the fact that The service in Bistro Grad is fine and mother’s kitchen, fusion novelties, the menu. It proved its star status. The hind the hype. “Belgrade done right”, their Etnofest is a festival celebrating wall paintings, as well as the vaults that a commuter town. Besides the two churches, the old a government facility is located there. friendly. Some small details, such as Duda&Vlada vegan options, original small bites… It lamb was tender, moist and delicately website boasts, and right they seem to be. world music, held from June held the structure together. Though Its opulent but fading beauty speaks centre of the town, shaded by trees Besides the monument, this pocket- proper presentation of the label before is hard to believe that a two-pager can seasoned; in Serbian, we would call it pouring the wine, could be improved 21 to June 24 in Subotica and it most likely built for a wealthy local, of Pancevo's past as an important cen- and dotted with quaint Austro-Hungar- sized mountain also hides plenty of istro Grad sits in an ideal offer it all. “soft as a soul”. The polenta and baby BISTRO GRAD to make the wine service fully by the Palic in northern Serbia. The legend has it that the tomb housed the tre of Serbian culture in the Austro- ian-era buildings, is pleasant to stroll history as an important silver and iron location, just steps away We started with edamame, young spinach rounded up this dish perfectly. Address: Uzun Mirkova 5, festival mainly comprises of book. The mark-up is good by Belgrade remains of early Christian saints, so you Hungarian Empire. Its famous Gym- around, even more so if you head for mining site since antiquity. There are from Kalemegdan, Studen- soy beans in the pod, harvested be- The raw cookies, like the one with av- Phone: +381 11 3285811, concerts, but in the past there standards. are sure to find icons and crosses inside. nasium produced (and still produces) Burek Stankoski (Milosa Obenovica 31, three ancient monasteries on its slopes, Bisto Grad offers a good vibe of ski Trg and Knez Mihajlova, fore they have ripened and hardened, ocado, green tea and dates, sounded in- Price Guide: 1,400-2,000 dinars have also been documentaries Access to the tomb is a story in itself, many notable figures in Serbian cul- Mon-Sat 6:30-12:30), a cult destination Tresijan, Pavlovac and Kastiljan, the Belgraders and their style of living. A at the point where the oth- steamed and served with coarse sea teresting, but after finishing off our -per per person for three courses without on world music, exhibitions, clearer wine list with more focus would as the site is located in the back-garden ture, from the painter Uros Predic and for Serbian foodies. last of which is rumoured to be built on Berwise bustling street of Uzun Mirkova salt. This snack originates from East fect mains we did not feel like having drinks and workshops on photogra- be appreciated, however. For example, phy, film, and music. Musical of a local family, who graciously allow scientist and engineer Mihailo Pupin Family-owned and run, the bakery the foundations of a Roman fortifica- there is no reason to have four Proseccos takes on a calmer and more peaceful Asia and is a delicious, healthy alter- influences on the festival span visitors to pass. to the recently deceased actor Nebojsa caught the eye of burek connoisseurs tion. on the list while a wide range of other flow. A rather small venue, it consists of native to a typical appetizer helping a wide range of countries, Once you are done with sightsee- Glogovac, widely considered one of the a few years ago thanks to its novel For those more into hops than his- grape varieties is not covered. When this a ground level bar, a restaurant on the of deep-fried peanuts or roasted al- ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ ing, you can experience more recent best of his generation. choices of stuffing for Serbia's beloved tory, Mt Kosmaj is also where Kabinet happens, I would be eager to visit Bistro upper floor and a small garden terrace monds. ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” from Sweden to Morocco and Grad once again. history by kicking back in one of Tito's The town's importance is reflected filo-pies – tasty twists on the traditional, (Nemenikuce, bb), Serbia's largest and on the sidewalk. A combination of cheese with fruit Italy. Appropriately, it begins on RESTAURANT KOVAČ World Music Day, a worldwide favourite restaurants in Belgrade, the in two beautiful Orthodox churches, such as roast pork knuckle or podvarak most famous craft brewery, produces its Basic Info Rating Visiting for lunch on a warm spring and nuts can never go wrong. Grilled modern ethno restaurant celebration of the rich sounds recently reopened and renovated Vi- which are sure to impress architecture (a sauerkraut-base dish), to more cos- wide variety of brews. Though the mini- day, our plan was to sit outside, but the goat cheese, covered in coarsely produced all around the globe. nogradi (Hajduk Veljka 30, Tue-Sun, buffs. The older of the two, the central mopolitan combos like quarto-forma- malist concrete brewery does not yet maintenance works going on in the gar- chopped hazelnuts and served with Overall GOOD The festival is organised by 9:00-22:30). It was here that Tito hosted Church of the Assumption, dazzles with ggio or gorgonzola-chicken. have a pub to visit, you can stock up on den made us opt for the interior instead. pressed dates and rosehip jam, was an Etnofest Association, which some of his most distinguished guests, its neo-baroque curved façade and two beers at the on-site shop, just call in ad- Wine selection AVERAGE It turned out to be very pleasant, the at- original interpretation of this theme, also organises another concert from Indonesian President Sukarno, ornate towers. The interior is also re- HISTORY AND vance (+381 11 2424478). Wine service GOOD mosphere upstairs being more private every bit as delicious as it sounds. of experimental “jazzire” and to Sofia Loren and Neil Armstrong, be- markable as it features a valuable 1830s HOPS IN KOSMAJ Food-wise, Kosmaj and its environs Wine pricing €12 - €135 and laid back than the one on the street. Crispy and spicy rice chips with fried contemporary jazz in November. fore the restaurant closed and fell into iconostasis, designed by a famed artist are famous for roast pork and lamb. A large window opening to Uzun Mirko- bacon, capers, dried tomato and chili Etnofest has many nearby park- disrepair. Though precious little of the of the era, Konstantin Danilo. Mt Avala might be the more popular Try Kod Tome i Nade (in Nemenikuce), va street brought in the spring vibes. aioli dip was an interesting mix of fla- ing spots and is accessible by old glamour remains, and the food now But it is the 1870s Church of Holy Trans- of Belgrade's two mountains, but Mt as well as Dascara, MB and Veranda, in Wine and GOOD The interior is trendy and urban, vours. We enjoyed it as one of our start- Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com train. Admission is free. is average, the restaurant's main attrac- figuration, on the outskirts of the old town, Kosmaj will enthral aficionados of Yu- nearby Mladenovac. food pairing done in the overly popular industrial ers, but the proper way to savour this 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 13 BELGRADE INSIDER ARTS

Subversive Film Festival at Dom How Opposition to the Ottomans Omladine Plan B, the Third Festival of Subversive Film, will take place from June 15-17 at Nurtured Serbia’s Homophobia Dom Omladine (Makedonska Arts in brief 22), featuring six carefully picked films dealing with From tolerance of homosexual relation resulted in a jail ordinary people’s struggle for sentence." justice, equality and freedom. during Ottoman Tickets for each of the films SERBS REJECT OTTOMAN cost 250 dinars (about 2 times to TOLERANCE euros). criminalisation, Researching his latest book, Kata Ne- Early Music siba i komentari, (Fabrika kniga 2017), Festival Turns 13 throughout the Jankovic went through the court and 20th century, police archives, tracking old cases A unique festival in the launched against sexual minority region, the Belgrade Early groups in Belgrade in the 19th and early Music Festival is holding its homosexuality 20th centuries. 13th edition from June 9-23 "To understand attitude towards ho- has remained a at various venues including mosexuality in Serbia in the 19th century, St. Peter’s Church (Make- highly sensitive one has to bear in mind the high level of tolerance towards it in the Ottoman Em- donska 23), Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment (Studentski Trg issue in this Balkan pire. The Vizier, the high representative of the empire, seated in Belgrade, had a 5) and the Holy Virgin Mary society, a leading harem which, apart from women, also Cathedral (Hadzi Milenti- contained young men," Jankovic recalls. jeva 75), among others. The activist explains. Serbian politicians of the first genera- festival features more than tion, starting with Milos Obrenovic, were 20 ensembles and solo- Milan RADONJIC under the influence of this Ottoman cul- ists from all over the world Dev9t takes place at the abandoned and reclaimed former brick factory, Stara Ciglana, a venue located in a somewhat secluded and remote part of Belgrade. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic ture. playing early music on period s June is globally marked However, their attitudes towards ho- instruments. Tickets cost as Pride month, the law- mosexuality differed sharply, not just 300 and 500 dinars (about yer, author and human because of the influence on them of 2.5 and 4 euros) for various rights activist Ivan Janko- Christian morality but also because of events. Learn more about the vic tells BIRN in an inter- the stereotype of Muslim soldiers raping programme at the festival’s Aview that – just as the roots of homopho- Christian boys, he notes. official website: www.festi- bia in Serbia can be traced back to the Newly independent Serbia sanctioned valranemuzike.com/ country's historic opposition to the Otto- homosexuality by law, so any Christian mans – traces of this toxic legacy remain young men who went to the Belgrade Lebanese Surrealist evident today. fortress, still held by Ottoman soldiers Photos at KC Grad "The Serbian authorities obsessively led by the Vizier, or who associated with gathered accusations against Turks Turks in the city, were punished. KC Grad (Brace Krsmanovic about sexual attacks on boys, while, in "Going through the archives, I found a 4) is presenting an exhibition contrast to the 'sodomite corruption' of case of a widow from Zemun [then part Jankovic is not only a long-time advocate for sexual minority right, but his latest book Kata Photo: Media Centre Belgrade Nesiba i komentari, offers a glimpse into sexual lives of 19th Century Belgraders. of surrealist images by the the Ottoman conquerors, a picture of of Austria] who sent her son to her rela- Lebanese photographer and Serbian society as strictly heterosexual tives in Belgrade, convinced of the moral balls dressed like this; it was only our mis- director Tareck Raffoul. The and patriarchal was cherished," Janko- strictness of the patriarchal society fortune to be mistreated like this.' They exhibition, entitled Ashes to vic notes. there. However, she soon found out that were punished for a misdemeanour." Nature, will run from June There is a striking similarity here with her son, Jovan, was spending his time 18-24; entrance is free and the contemporary obsession of conserv- with the Belgrade Turks and had a lot of POLICE POUNCE ON the pictures area available for ative circles in Serbia today, who almost money. She concluded that 'the Turks 'GRANDMA ANJUKA'S CLUB Photo: Srdjan Garcevic Photo: Srdjan Garcevic purchase. unanimously perceive homosexuality have applied their lawless custom with ' as something imported from the 'deca- him' and pleaded with the Serbian au- In 1931, the Belgrade police discovered Photo Exhibition dent' West. thorities to return him to Austria, which a men's club of "young spirited people", a Britain, he recalls, decriminalised was done," Jankovic says. "shelter of people without innocence" who Explores Feminine th Beauty homosexuality in the mid-20 century In another legal case, dating from 1842, called themselves by woman's names. Dev9t Gets Ready to Set following a debate between Herbert Li- Jankovic found that a young man from Mica and Georgette were the most onel Hart, Philosopher of Law, and Judge Smederevo was punished for roaming famous club members but many others An exhibition of selected Patrick Arthur Devlin, and following the around the city with Turks and because gathered in a private apartment with works by Kosta Djurakovic Belgrade Ablaze 1957 parliamentary report presented by he "took part in sodomite blasphemy in three rooms and six beds, and a lush col- and Danica Milosevic will John Wolfenden, proposing an end to contempt of our law and Orthodox faith". lection of pornographic photography, open on June 23 at 8pm at the legal prosecution of homosexual re- When the Ottoman Turks finally left the police report states. the Jane Doe Concept Store Serbia’s very own Now let’s look at what you can actu- you, offer your input. This way, visitors formed last year. While the aorganisers lations. Belgrade in 1867, the equalisation of The club chief was described as "a (Cara Urosa 19). The exhibi- ally expect from a visit if the concept also become creators, or artists, which have not announced such big names The Hart-Devlin debate had a global homosexuality and Ottoman atrocities toothless half-intellectual", who went by tion, featuring photographs take on the Burning intrigues you sufficiently. matches the main philosophy. for this year, there’s still plenty to be ex- impact, helping to lead to the gradual remained deeply rooted in the Serbian the nickname of "Grandma Anjuka" after that Djurakovic exhibited In practice, Dev9t is nine days of As with Burning Man, artists are cited about on this year’s roster. decriminalisation of homosexuality in consciousness. an infamous poisoner, Serbia's first se- at last year’s Bitef festival, Man festival comes workshops, art gatherings, exhibitions, encouraged to create sculptures, and Fans of sludge and stoner rock many countries during the second half Article 206 of the criminal code, rial killer Anjuka Di Pistonia, who was in complete with some new residences, concerts, parties and other quite large ones, preferably interactive, should not miss the concert by Greeks of the 20th century. Socialist Yugoslavia adopted in 1860, criminalised homosex- prison at the time. works, explories female back, with ‘The get-togethers at the abandoned and which may or may not be destroyed Last Rizla, after which DJ Grom, a con- was one of them. uality as "un-natural fornication", which A criminal prosecution was opened beauty according to ancient Mirror’ providing the reclaimed former brick factory, Stara [burned] at the close of the festival. It’s noisseur of all things metal, doom and The Yugoslav criminal code, under was perceived in two forms: sexual inter- against some of the men from this group Greek standards. Entrance is Ciglana, a venue located in a somewhat up to the artists to decide the fate of punk, will have a DJ set. If you’re more Article 186, prescribed a prison sentence course between males and intercourse but not for sexual misdemeanour, but for free and the exhibition will be theme for this year. secluded and remote part of Belgrade. their creations, and the festival impos- of a techno person, the clubbing maga- of up to two years for the offence of ho- with animals. The penalty ranged from a theft they were supposedly involved in. open for a week. The main theme of this year’s Dev9t es almost no rules at all in this. zine Urban Bug will have their stage at mosexual relation. six months to four years in jail with loss As in other European countries, ho- is “The Mirror.” Artists young and old Also, for the first time since the festi- the festival where they will showcase Mica and Georgette were part of a cross-dressing club Photo: Courtesy of Ivan Jankovic This was about to change, however, of citizen's honours. which existed in 1930s Belgrade. mosexuals in Socialist Yugoslavia were Ethno Fusion David GALIC are invited to apply to participate in the val started, artists may now rent a place some of the most exciting local and re- with the transfer of jurisdiction from fed- Lesbian relations were not sanc- often publicly stigmatised and ridiculed Fest at Belgrade festival where their art will be show- to use as their home, gallery, workshop gional DJ acts. Don’t miss DJ Speedy’s eral level to the Republics and Autono- tioned, although there were attempts to newspaper, Male Novine [Little Journal]," open to everyone, in the Savamala district, in addition to the risk of legal prosecution Synagogue his year, it’s clearer than cased and where they will be encour- or store for the duration of the nine festi- birthday party, when this popular un- mous Provinces, after the constitutional do so. he notes. two cross-dressing men were arrested. under the criminal code adopted in 1956. ever that Dev9t intends to aged to engage with other artists in an val days, allowing them to not only cre- derground DJ will perform back to back changes in 1974. In the 20th century, police occasionally The police report marked them as "two Over time, however, in legal writings The Ninth Belgrade Ethno Fu- become Serbia’s version exchange of thoughts, ideas, inspira- ate but also potentially sell their pieces. with Goran Kan, supported by Kobaya, When the Yugoslav republics adopted POLITICIANS SMEARED arrested and prosecuted homosexuals disgusting characters, covered in make- during the 1970s and 1980s, pleas for sion Fest, showcasing music of the America’s famous tions and experiences. “Keep Creating” This is not limited to art; various craft Steve Tech and David Popovic. their own criminal codes in 1977, Slo- FOR PREFERENCES caught in the act. One such example comes up, dressed up in women's clothes, wig- the decriminalisation of homosexual- from the Balkan, Spanish, Burning Man festival. is the slogan and that’s pretty much all businesses, food trucks, mom and pop On top of all this, Dev9t is also a place venia, Croatia, Montenegro and Vojvo- from a Belgrade police report from 1924: gling their hips and pinching both man ity in Serbia continued, backed by the TAbove all, the festival is about creation, the participants are expected to do. shops and similar creators may also be- where you can check out contempo- Jewish, Ottoman and Arabic dina abolished the crime of consensual Jankovic notes that the second half of "A gendarme patrol at Little Kalemeg- and woman, while whinnying like mares." demands of intellectuals for the equal cultural traditions, will take and this imperative is stated in the festi- One thing that sets this festival apart come part of this village, or “favella,” as rary performance art, contemporary th homosexual relations between adults. the 19 century saw various attempts to dan in Dorcol district has detained M. M., "A journalist from a Belgrade newspa- rights of minority groups. place at the beautiful Suk- val’s nine founding principles, listed on from other art festivals is that literally the organisers named it. dance and theatre. We recommend everyone who applies can exhibit. No Dev9t is more than just a place for The National Security Day, a play based More conservative Serbia only followed disqualify political opponents based on the coachman and M. C., an upholsterer, per interviewed them both in police cus- In 1986, the theatre director Jovan kat Shalom Synagogue at the festival website. suit in 1994. their assumed sexual preferences. who were caught this morning in the act tody," Jankovic continues. Cirilov memorably took to the speaker's Dev9t’s main idea is that the human one is rejected; everyone is welcomed artists to express their creativity and on the works of Russian writers and po- Marsala Birjuzova 19 from Jankovic recalls the arguments of the "Pera Todorovic, a Radical Party mem- of unnatural fornication. Medical exami- "One man was from the town of Uzice, stage at the 13th Congress of Yugoslav being, as a creation, is art, in and of with open arms. The festival sets up a gain visibility. It is also nine days of ets Viktor Yerofeyev, Leonid Gubanov June 20-23. Tickets cost time only too well. ber and professional journalist who nation has confirmed that Manojlovic is a caretaker in a Belgrade schoolchildren's League of Communists in Belgrade, and him or herself; the ultimate purpose of little station or workplace for each art- partying. Well, perhaps not around-the- and Dmitri Prigov. 400 dinars (about 3 euros) "As a postgraduate student of Law in struggled with addiction to morphine a passive pederast. An investigation has boarding house who went under name spoke of the need to fight against the every human being should be to cre- ist, where he or she will create the art clock, but, rest assured, if you stop by for each concert and 1,000 Belgrade back in 1969, I tried to apply and was allegedly homosexual, was not been opened…" Cveta, while the other was from the town stigmatisation of LGBT persons and end ate. The result of this creation is never that will then be included in the overall at any point after early afternoon, you Dev9t starts on June 15 and the final Hart's and Devlin's arguments to Yu- only subjected to a smear campaign by The Belgrade media occasionally re- of Valjevo, called himself Zorka, and was a their legal prosecution. dinars (about 8.5 euros) for specifically defined or determined, corpus of the festival. Importantly, this will be able to hear some music played event is scheduled for June 23. The goslav criminal code," he says. "While his political rivals but was also subjected ported on transvestite and homosexual servant in the home of a well-known Bel- It took eight more years for the Ser- the entire festival, and are however, because all creation is art and process is completely open for interac- by both local and international DJs and venue is Stara Ciglana, Slanacki Put 26, analysing judicial statistics, I found out to attempts to get him imprisoned on circles in the capital. grade industrialist. They told the journal- bian parliament to decriminalise homo- available for purchase an all art is creation – and creation is life it- tion with the visitors. You can stop by bands. In the past, the festival had some and it can be reached by buses no. 35, that in Serbia at that time, every year at this account. However they failed, and At a so-called Potato Ball in 1912, a ver- ist that in Belgrade, "'There are more than sexuality, however; the struggle for full hour before concerts at the self. That’s the philosophy of Dev9t in a an artist’s workplace, check out their special musical guests, such as the 32, 202, 74 and 25P. Entrance is free for least one legal process for the offence Todorovic continued to publish his sion of court and high-society balls but a hundred of us friends, who go to the equality still continues. Synagogue itself. nutshell! process and, if it works for the both of South African Die Antwoord, who per- all events. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 15 GOING OUT WHAT'S ON 4 Sports Bars for World Cup Fun CLUBBING

placement of all of Belgrade sports bars, The 2018 World in the sense that the sets are at a perfect AND LIVE MUSIC height, so that you can watch the match Cup has just got from anywhere without having to under way, and strain your neck. FRIDAY JUNE 15 • Maticna ploca, Fest Club, Gradski • Worm Up Party, Pristan, park 2, 10pm Dunavski kej – 25. Maj, 10pm SPASICEV PUB • Bad Music Boogallo vol.2, • Electric Funx, Bitef Art Café • Sub Rosa, Drugstore, Bulevar what better time (Nikole Spasica 1) Grad Cultural Center, Brace Summer Stage, Mali Kalemegdan, Despota Stefana 115, 8pm than now to Krsmanovica 4, 8pm 11pm • Beyond 2000 Summer Jam, Slep Spasicev Pub (which was until a • E-Play / Samarcina u DKSC!, • Petar Cvetkovic & 031 Republic, Club, Usce bb, 10pm explore some of recent renovation simply called Sports Studentski Grad Cultural Center, KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa 22, 5pm • Above, Mr Stefan Braun Club, Pub) has its pros and cons. The pros are Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 9pm • GANG GANG x Trepni LUTKO Nemanjina 4, 11pm that it’s decorated like a proper sports • Funk Night, Polet, Cetinjska 15, (Open Air), KPTM, Zorza • RNB Thursday Delight, Lasta – Belgrade’s coolest 9pm Klemensoa 22, 11pm Gradski splav, Bulevar Vojvode pub should be, the food is amazing, the • NP & TE // Sex Machina Band, Fest • Goran Kan B2B Speedy @ Dev9t Misica bb, 11.30pm drink selection is very extensive and sports bars? Club, Gradski park 2, 10pm Festival, Ciglana, Slanacki put 26, gives you tons of options that aren’t • Vroom, Drugstore, Bulevar 6pm FRIDAY JUNE 22 local lagers. The cons are that it’s pretty Despota Stefana 115, 9pm • GistroPOP Farewell, Grad David GALIC small, it gets crowded and stuffy quite • Makao, Bitef Art Café Summer Cultural Center, Brace • Neomodern, Polet, Cetinjska 15, quickly and the prices are a bit higher Stage, Mali Kalemegdan, 11pm Krsmanovica 4, 9pm 9pm f you and your mates still don’t than in most other sports pubs. • KENDI, Ivan Belosevac x Trifun, • Dj Iron x Timbe, Zappa Barka, • Fuse, Fest Club, Gradski park 2, have a preferred watering hole It’s definitely one of the best places in DADA Selectah, KPTM, Zorza Usce bb, 10pm 10pm for following this summer’s Belgrade to catch a match though. The Klemensoa 22, 5pm • Jelena Kecis, Kaldrma Bar, • Clémentine (Paris, FR) w/ White football festivities, here are five televisions are placed well so that you • Codex, Rahmanee & Kastiljas Skadarska 40, 8pm City Soul DJs & Shoomadisco, excellent sports bars that should can clearly watch the match no matter MC (Open Air), KPTM, Zorza • Off Program, Drugstore, Bulevar Grad Cultural Center, Brace Idefinitely be on your radar. where you’re sitting. If you’re looking to Klemensoa 22, 11pm Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Krsmanovica 4, 8pm have lunch or dinner without having to • Ricardo Villalobos, Kalemegdan • SAM BINGA / Necone / Lil Taty, • Antigone All Night Long, CHAMPIONS miss an important match, Spasicev Pub Fortress, 11pm Club 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota (Cara Dusana 66) is perfect. Their burgers in particular • Bege Fank x Dj Bko, Zappa Barka, • Nixon Goes 3 // B-day Party, Stefana 115, 11pm are highly recommended. Usce bb, 10pm Nixon Club, Misarska 7, 9pm • Dizel, Mr Stefan Braun Club, Another excellent central sports bar, • Insolence at Garden of Drugstore, • Saturday Party, Lasta – Gradski Nemanjina 4, 11pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana splav, Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, • Metodi Hristov, Lasta – Gradski Champions used to be a great place to PASSENGERS BAR 115, 11pm 11.55am splav, Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, play billiards as well, but they decided (Simina 5) • Banda Panda All Night Long, Club • Weekend@Martinez, Martinez 11pm to renovate and focus on giving 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm Bar, Karadjordjeva 46, 11pm football fans the ultimate place to enjoy Passengers Bar isn’t a true sports bar, • REGIS, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, 7pm • Opening Weekend, Leto Club, SATURDAY JUNE 23 matches (especially the Champions but when the time comes to watch the • Nixon Goes 3 // B-day Party, Nixon Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, League, of course). If you want to World Cup or other important sporting Club, Misarska 7, 9pm 11.30pm • Halftones, Grad Cultural Center, participate in some type of ‘bar sport’ events, especially during the summer, • Friday Party, Lasta – Gradski • Progressive & Psychodelic Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm too, you can play some electronic darts it’s one of the most popular places in splav, Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, Trance Event, Kolos, Dunavski • In from the Cold / Nula / here as well. the city. The reason for this is that they No matter where you grab a spot, you’ll be near a television, since there are a total of 10 screens at Square Five. Photo: Courtesy of Square Five 11.55am kej – 25. Maj, 11pm Gazorpazorp, Elektropionir, The bar is big, with two levels have a huge screen and projector set • Opening Weekend, Leto Club, • Osa, Mood, Usce bb, 11pm Cetinjska 15, 8pm and outside seating when the up in their courtyard that makes it an rare bars that are popular for sporting can’t go wrong with Square Five. It’s are a total of 10 screens at Square Five. Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, 11.30pm • Pion, Nikola Mihailovic & Roxa, weather’s nice. Located on the Dorcol absolutely idyllic spot to watch sport events which has a few local craft beers located right on Republic Square, the Don’t expect much more than beer on • Weekend@Martinez, Martinez SUNDAY JUNE 17 KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa 22, 5pm KOLARAC neighbourhood’s busiest street, it might when it’s hot outside. on tap along with the more popular most iconic square in the city, so it’s the menu, but the ample selection of Bar, Karadjordjeva 46, 11pm • Dj Brka / Dj Baris K / Tj Tutan, not be the ideal location for outdoor Great food and great beer have made mass-produced brews. perfect you’re meeting up with guests brews and excellent choice of bar food • Don’t worry be happy, Mood, Usce • SoA Summer break party, Dom Club 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm PROGRAMME drinking, but they’ve set up barriers Passengers Bar one of the most popular who might be visiting Belgrade for the (fries, wings, burgers) should give you bb, 10pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, 6pm • The Swarm, Imago CUK, that keep out the noise of the street well bars in the Dorcol neighbourhood. SQUARE FIVE first time. everything you need from a sports • PARTY at Four | Speedy, Goran Decanska 14, 10pm • Girls Are Gonna get Wild, Mr Stefan enough (it’s not like you really need The food menu is significantly more (Trg Republike 5) It’s a very big place, with a stretched- bar. Since the location is very central, SATURDAY JUNE 16 Kan, Steve Tech & David Popovic, KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa Braun Club, Nemanjina 4, 11pm to listen to the commentators all that extensive than in most similar bars, out area that’s divided into two Square Five gets pretty crowded. Make • Bad Music Boogallo vol.2, 22, 4am • Ages of Love Sun Dance, Mood, much). Televisions are located in all meaning that you can choose from If you don’t feel like exploring and sections, a bar area and table seating. sure to call for a reservation if you’re Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 8pm • BTCHN b-day Party, Grad Usce bb, 11pm areas, inside and out, and Champions more than just typical finger food are looking for a can’t-miss sports pub No matter where you grab a spot, planning on watching a big match • Belgrade New Wave, Polet, Cultural Center, Brace might actually have the best TV like ribs and wings. It’s also one of the right in the centre of the city, you really you’ll be near a television, since there there. Cetinjska 15, 8pm Krsmanovica 4, 5.30pm SUNDAY JUNE 24 • Salsa Night, Tranzit Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, 7.30pm • Predrag Janus & Milos Vujovic • Savamala Sundays: DJ Vuk (Open Air), KPTM, Zorza FRIDAY JUNE 15 Piano Ensemble D-Art Ice-T’s Body Count Electro-Jazz Comes Vukosavljevic, Tranzit Bar, Brace Klemensoa 22, 4am Programme: Tchaikovsky, Dvorak, Make Belgrade Debut to BitefArtCafe Krsmanovica 8, 9pm • Savamala Sundays: DJ Vuk Concert Hall, 8pm Liszt, Khachaturian • Fedja Knajdl Matinee, Lasta – Vukosavljevic, Tranzit Bar, Brace Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Production: Music Centre Gradski splav, Bulevar Vojvode Krsmanovica 8, 9pm Conductor: John Axelrod Admission fee his legendary crossover rap/metal band from LA are finally scar Simmonson, a former member of Misica bb, 6pm • Skyhigh, Mr Stefan Braun Club, David Guerrier, trumpet and horn coming to Belgrade. Formed and fronted by legendary west the celebrated Swedish electro-jazz • Opening Weekend, Leto Club, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Programme: C. M. von Weber,H. coast rapper Ice-T, Body Count are best known for contro- band Koop, which won a Swedish THURSDAY, JUNE 21 Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, Tomasi, R. Strauss,J. Williams, versial hits like ‘Cop Killer’. They are pioneers of combin- Grammy in 2003 for their album 11.30pm MONDAY JUNE 25 Production: Belgrade ing rap with hardcore and metal sounds, which would Waltz for Koop, is coming to Bel- Music Gallery, 6pm Philharmonic Tlater become a very popular trend, and are coming to Belgrade to Ograde with his new band, supported by world FREE COPY Cycle: Lectures MONDAY JUNE 18 • Find a Boyfriend Party, Slep More information – 0112630744 Prof. Sanja Grujic Vlajnic/ promote their 2017 album Bloodlust, which features hits like ‘Black music and jazz supergroup Bokante. The con- Club, Usce bb, 10pm Hoodie’, ‘No Lives Matter’ and ‘Ski Mask Way’, as well as a cover of cert, which is part of the Barcafe Musicology Mongomery College Adjunct Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. • Find a Boyfriend Party, Slep • Monday Midnight – Moooka SATURDAY JUNE 16 Faculty the Slayer’s classic ‘Raining in Blood’. They will be supported by the Series, starts at 10pm on June 24 at BitefArt- Club, Usce bb, 10pm (RNB), Hot Mess Club, Usce bb, Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Serbian Music in the USA Belgian Powerstroke and the British Astroid Boys. The concert is on Cafe Summer Stage (Mali Kalemegdan 2). Tick- • Monday Midnight – Moooka 10pm Music Gallery, 6 pm Production: Music Centre June 18 at 9pm at SKC (Students’ Cultural Centre, Kralja Milana 48). ets cost from 800 dinars (about 7 euros) to 1300 Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 (RNB), Hot Mess Club, Usce bb, 10pm Children`s Concert Admission free Tickets are 2,300 dinars (about 21.5 euros). dinars (about 11 euros) depending on seating. TUESDAY JUNE 26 Editor in Chief: Gordana Igric Ticket price: 300 dinars TUESDAY JUNE 19 BIRN editorial team: • We Are the ‘90s, Freestyler Club, THURSDAY JUNE 28 SUNDAY JUNE 17 Gordana Andric, Marcus Tanner, • Johnny Cash Night, Polet, Usce bb, 10pm Concert Hall, 8pm belgradeinsighteditor@birn. Cetinjska 15, 8pm • DJ Marchez ‘2000s, TAG Club, • Vlada Dzet Bend, Studentski Grad Usce bb, 10pm Concert Hall, 11am Traditional Music - Gusle eu.com Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber Sales & Marketing: Marija Djindjica 179, 9pm WEDNESDAY JUNE 27 Music , Club 20/44, Usce Petrovic • FESRAM 1389 bb, 10pm • Marko Vukovic, Gem.n. & Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • We Are the ‘90s, Freestyler Club, Poslednji Pionir, KPTM, Zorza [email protected] Usce bb, 10pm Klemensoa 22, 5pm • DJ Marchez ‘2000s, TAG Club, The Bellrays Play Bad Subscription & Distribution: Usce bb, 10pm THURSDAY JUNE 28 Music Boogaloo Goran Knezevic Baris K Explores Turkish Psychedelia WEDNESDAY JUNE 20 • Dusan Petrovic Trio & Guests, Halftones Generate Art-Rock Energy The Bellrays have their own description +381 63 562 265 Grad Cultural Center, Brace Not many foreign DJs can claim to own Karaoke Thursdays at Mystic of their sound: “Punk but not punk. Rock [email protected] • Dejan Milićevic, Mancha & Mark Krsmanovica 4, 7pm Antigone All Night Long Belgrade clubbers’ hearts like Baris Excellent psych-noise art-rock trio Half- but not rock. Soul but not soul.” This K. The man who helped make Turk- tones have a new EP, ‘Brda Sna’, featuring Craving some good old karaoke fun? incredible band from California are com- Printing: POLITIKA stamparija Panic (Open Air), KPTM, Zorza • Bjesovi, Zappa Barka, usce bb, Klemensoa 22, 5pm 10pm After a very successful party last year at ish 1970s psychedelic nostalgia into a a song that’s already become a huge hit Cafebar Mystic (Cumicevo Sokace, ing to Belgrade as part of the Bad Music d.o.o. Drugstore (Bulevar Despota Stefana 115), worldwide cult, Baris K will be perform- among the underground rock music loc. 62) promises to let you sing your for Bad People’s Boogaloo #2 festival, • Robert Lippok, Drugstore, Antigone is back at this venue on June ing alongside his friend DJ Brka, who fans in Serbia called ‘Radio Kabul’. Half- heart out like no one’s listening. These where they will be performing on the ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade THURSDAY JUNE 21 Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 9pm 22, this time for an all-nighter. The front- first brought him to Belgrade, as well as tones live performances are a celebra- Karaoke Thursdays are becoming second night, June 15, at KC Grad (Brace Insight • Beyond 2000 Summer Jam, Slep runner of the Parisian techno scene has another Turkish DJ, Tutan. The party is tion of immense energy, charisma and increasingly popular and we’re pretty Krsmanovic 4) alongside The Hooten • Who See, Zappa Barka, usce bb, 10pm Club, Usce bb, 10pm quite strong connections to Drugstore, on June 23 at 20/44 (Usce bb). Tickets optimism, so make sure to treat yourself sure it’s one of the best ways to spend a Hallers (USA) and Harp Explosion - Thee COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 • TesseracTstudio Daily • RNB Thursday Delight, Lasta – who consider him one of the club’s resi- cost 400 dinars (about 3 euros) before to the experience. The concert on June Thursday night in the city right now. The One Man Band (Croatia). The concert Circulation: 2,000 RAVE Label day, KPTM, Zorza Gradski splav, Bulevar Vojvode dents. Tickets will cost 800 dinars (about midnight and 600 dinars (about 5 euros) 23 starts at 11pm. Tickets at the door will party starts at 9pm and doesn’t stop until starts at 8pm and tickets cost 2,000 Klemensoa 22, 5pm Misica bb, 11.30pm 7 euros) at the door. afterwards. be 500 dinars (about 4 euros). 3am. Entrance is free. dinars (about 17 euros) on the day. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 15 - Thursday, June 28, 2018 ARTS AND CULTURE

Opera, Ballet MONDAY JUNE 25 • 10th KROKODIL Festival of • The Isolated Tribes and Animism • 43rd Monodrama and Pantomime and Classical Literature, Amphitheatre in front of Amazon, Ilija M. Kolarac Festival, different locations, 7.30pm • Animato Piano Quartet, Marija of the Museum of Yugoslavia, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm FRIDAY JUNE 15 Obrenovic (piano), Teodora Boticeva 6, 8pm Theatre Boljanac (violin), Jelena Mitrovic • Book Presentation: When Youth THURSDAY JUNE 21 • Belgrade Philharmonic (viola), Olga Milenkovic (cello), Said No, Studentski Grad Cultural SATURDAY JUNE 16 Orchestra, John Axelrod Serbian Academy of Sciences and Center, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica • Exhibition: Sito i Besno, (conductor), David Guerrier Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm 179, 12pm Studentski Grad Cultural Center, • The Marriage (Gogol), National (trumpet and horn), Ilija M. • Opera: Andrea Chenier • Summer Day, Park in Pozeska Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 10am Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg (Giordano), National Theatre in street, Pozeska, 7pm • Pop Literature: Goran Bregovic, 8.30pm 5, 8pm Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm • Sofie from Seattle, Studentski Grad Studentski Grad Cultural Center, • Till Death Do Us Part, Yugoslav • 17th International Harf Festival Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, in Belgrade, Studentski Kulturni TUESDAY JUNE 26 Djindjica 179, 8pm • Exhibition: Miodrag Bata 8.30pm Centar (SKC), Kralja Milana 48, 7pm Knezevic, Goethe-Institute • Ballet: Who is Singing Out There • Ballet: Don Quixote (Minkus), SUNDAY JUNE 17 Belgrade, Knez Mihailova 50, 8pm SUNDAY JUNE 17 (Kostic), National Theatre in National Theatre in Belgrade, • Lecture: Serbian Music in USA, Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Francuska 3, 7.30pm • Poetry Festival, Petak Club, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • The Bereaved Family (Nusic), Lomina 14, 8pm Studentski trg 5, 6pm National Theatre in Belgrade, th SATURDAY JUNE 16 THURSDAY JUNE 28 • 10 KROKODIL Festival of • Literary Evening – Passport for Francuska 3, 7.30pm Literature, CZKD, Bircaninova 21, the Sky, Bozidar M. Glogovac, Ilija • A lullaby for Vuk Unknown, • Children’s Concert Magic Flute, • Vidovdan Concert – Serbia is 12pm M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski National Theatre in Belgrade, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Born, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • Exhibition: ’68, Serbian Academy trg 5, 7.30pm Francuska 3, 8.30pm Studentski trg 5, 6pm Studentski trg 5, 8pm of Sciences and Arts, Knez • 13th Festival of Early Music on • Noir Baroque Trio, Jelena Mihailova 35, 6pm FRIDAY JUNE 22 MONDAY JUNE 18 historical instruments, Ilija M. Jakovljevic and Angelina Nikolic Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg (flute), Anita Stankovic (piano), MONDAY JUNE 18 • Cycle: Medicine and Visual • The Nineties (Milenkovic), 5, 8pm Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, National Theatre in Belgrade, Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm • Delicatessen Monday, Grad Studentski trg 5, 6pm Francuska 3, 8.30pm SUNDAY JUNE 17 Cultural Center, Brace Krsmanovica • Media Activism, Studentski Grad Exhibitions 4, 7pm Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana th TUESDAY JUNE 19 • Piano Ensemble D-Art, Ilija M. and Events • 10 KROKODIL Festival of Djindjica 179, 7pm Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Literature, CZKD, Bircaninova 21, • Book Presentation: c, Dom • Our Sons (Maramboa), National 5, 11am FRIDAY JUNE 15 12pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, 8pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • Lecture cycle: 60 Years of 8.30pm MONDAY JUNE 18 • Dev9t Festival, Ciglana, Slanacki Memories on Milutin Milankovic, SATURDAY JUNE 23 put 26, 6pm Museum of Science and WEDNESDAY JUNE 20 • Review of Video Projection • Exhibition: In Honor of Poleskija Technology, Dobracina 51, 7pm • Art and Education as Form of from the Verdi Festival, Instituto and Nadezda, Gallery 73, Pozeska • Fantastic Reading Room #59, Dom Transformation, Goethe-Institute • The Great Drama (Kovacevic), Italiano di Cultura, Kneza Milosa 83a, 10am Omladine, Makedonska 22, 7pm Belgrade, Knez Mihailova 50, 6pm National Theatre in Belgrade, 56, 6pm • Lecture cycle: Geohazard in • 1968 in Student Magazine, Gallery • Dance Factory Studio, Sava Center, Francuska 3, 7.30pm st , Serbian of Science and Technology, Djure • Nebojsa Maksimovic (piano), Serbia in the 21 century Milentija Popovica 9, 7pm • The Importance of Being Ernest Academy of Sciences and Arts, Jaksica 2, 6pm Serbian Academy of Sciences and • 9th Belgrade Ethno Fusion Fest (Wilde), National Theatre in Knez Mihailova 35, 12pm Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm • Exhibition: Red University “Karl 2018, Belgrade synagogue, Marsala Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm , • Book Presentation: I asked a Marx” – Half a Century Forever Birjuzova 19, 9.30pm little snail: My sociological story Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, TUESDAY JUNE 19 THURSDAY JUNE 21 about Saban Bajramovic, Serbian 5pm SUNDAY JUNE 24 Academy of Sciences and Arts, • Exhibition: Tareck Raffoul, Grad • Ballet: Dictionary of the Khazars , National Knez Mihailova 35, 1.30pm Cultural Center, Brace Krsmanovica • The Patriots (Sterija) – Dream Hunters (Pavic), National • Vinyl Market in June, Dom Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, • Exhibition: This Too Is Serbia, 4, 8pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Omaldine, Makedonska 22, 10am 7.30pm 7.30pm Zoran Cvetkovic, Gallery of Science and Technology, Djure TUESDAY JUNE 19 MONDAY JUNE 25 FRIDAY JUNE 22 THURSDAY JUNE 21 Jaksica 2, 1pm • 20th Nitrate Film Festival, • Scientific Gathering – Healthcare Yugoslav Film Archive, Uzun in Serbia in the Coming Decades, • Scientific Gathering – Protein • A Suspicious Person (Nusic), • Nikola Zaringer (piano), Serbian Electrostatics, Serbian Academy of National Theatre in Belgrade, Academy of Sciences and Arts, Mirkova 1, 5pm Serbian Academy of Sciences and • Cycle: Medicine and Visual Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 19pm Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova Francuska 3, 8.30pm Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm 35, 10am • World Music Day in KCB, Cultural Arts, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • My Movie is Better than Yours Studentski trg 5, 6pm #24, Dom Omladine, Makedonska • Fantastic Quiz, Dom Omladine, SATURDAY JUNE 23 center of Belgrade, Trg republike 5, Makedonska 22, 7pm 6pm • Festival of Subversive Film Plan 22, 7pm B, Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, • Exhibition: Drawings, Mario • A profitable Position (Ostrovsky), • Qzama Quartet, Bitefartcafe TUESDAY JUNE 26 Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Summer Stage, Kalemegdan, 10pm 7pm Kolaric, Dom Omladine, • 10th KROKODIL Festival of Makedonska 22, 3pm Milana 50, 8pm • Music Revolution in Brazil, FRIDAY JUNE 22 Literature, Amphitheatre in front • Literary Evening - Big Change, of the Museum of Yugoslavia, Branko Andjic, Ilija M. Kolarac Studentski Grad Cultural Center, SUNDAY JUNE 24 Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm • Ballet: La Bayadere (Minkus), Boticeva 6, 8pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, • 7th Belgrade Festival of European • The Lady of the Camelias (Fils), National Theatre in Belgrade, • Summer in the Museum, Museum 7.30pm , Dom Omladine, National Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm of Yugoslavia, Mihaila Mike Literature Jankovica 6, 8pm WEDNESDAY JUNE 20 Makedonska 22, 7pm Francuska 3, 7.30pm • The Imaginary Invalid (Moliere), SATURDAY JUNE 23 • Pris Stage Promo Event, Gavez • Exhibition: Nothing spec Club, Ada Ciganlija, 8pm • Mihailo Petrovic Alas’ Imapct on 1.0, Nadezda Kircanski, Dom Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja • 13th Festival of Early Music on • Alice in WonderBand, Dorcol Archaeology, Serbian Academy of Omladine, Makedosnka 22, 7pm Milana 50, 8pm Historical Instruments, Ilija M. Platz, Dobracina 59b, 8.30pm Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg • Exhibition: Through the Vast 35, 19pm WEDNESDAY JUNE 27 MONDAY JUNE 25 5, 8pm Fields, Miljan Stevanovic, Ilija M. • Climate Change: A • Opera: Andrea Chenier Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Geoperspective, Serbian Academy • Exhibition: Acim Medovic, • The Sexual Neurosis of our (Giordano), National Theatre in 5, 7pm of Sciences and Arts, Knez Serbian Academy of Sciences and Parents (Barfuss), National Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm, Mihailova 35, 12pm Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 10am Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, premiere SATURDAY JUNE 16 • Exhibition: Sculptures, Stefan • New Light: Woman and sexuality 8.30pm Dimitrijevic, Ilija M. Kolarac in an experimental film, • Othello (Shakespeare), Yugoslav th SUNDAY JUNE 24 • Exhibition: Marking the 150 Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 11am Studentski Grad Cultural Center, Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, Anniversary of theBbirth of • Psychedelia in Yugoslav Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 8pm 8pm • The 18th International Festival Mihailo Petrovic Alas, Serbian Experimental Film 1969 – 1976, Dies Organorum, different Academy of Sciences and Arts, Studentski Grad Cultural Center, THURSDAY JUNE 28 WEDNESDAY JUNE 27 locations, 8.30pm Knez Mihailova 35, 12pm Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 9pm • Promenade Concert, Ilija M. • 10th KROKODIL Festival of • Panel: Sexuality of persons • Pjer Mereskovski, Studentski Grad • Richard the Third (Shakespeare), Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Literature, CZKD, Bircaninova 21, with physical disabilities, Dom Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana National Theatre in Belgrade, 5, 11am 12pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, 7pm Djindjica 179, 7pm Francuska 3, 7.30pm

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