CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE hinterlands. Duringthe17thand 18thcenturies,theysetupaseriesof Zambezi–thatearlyexplorersof theRio and tradersfirstpenetrated thevastMozambican of MonomotapasouthwestTete. ItwasalsoincentralMozambique –alongthecourse (Shona)confederations alongtheZimbabweborderandlegendarykingdom Karanga And itwashere arose,includingthe thatsomeoftheregion’s kingdoms mostpowerful traders fromasfarawayIndiaandIndonesiagathered insearchofvastcachesgold. provinces –shouldgettopbilling. ofSofala,that15th-century Itwashere, attheoldport In theannalsofancientAfrica, centralMozambique –Sofala,Manica,Tete andZambézia Mozambique Central 104 © LonelyPlanetPublications Sofala province toManica,Tete, andthentoZambézia. with Beiraandthesea,Tete Zimbabwe andMalawi. corridor,linking Zimbabwe landlocked bytheBeiracorridor, connecting also amajortransitzone,flanked provinces, where rolling,mist-covered hillsstretch intothehorizon.Central Mozambique is highland terrain isatitsmostbeautifulinwestern Zambézia Manicaandnorthwestern traditional cultures, Mozambique’s highestpeaksandalluringmountainlandscapes. The In additiontowildlife watchingatParque NacionaldeGorongosa,theseincludevibrant accessible beachesofthesouth,region out. hasafew seeking gemsthatare wellworth seldom given more thanpassingmentioninthetouristbrochures. Yet, whileitlacksthe fairs) thatreached asfarinlandZumbo ontheZambianborder. Places inthischapter andclockwise,goingfrom are describedroughlysouthtonorth Today, thetideshave turned:visitorsare butasmalltrickle,andcentral Mozambique is
HIGHLIGHTS
Gobirdinginthetwittering, chirpingbird- inthehillsaround Hike at themassive Marvel cityBeira’sfamous Dineonport Wanderintothewildsatwonderful filled forests southof scale misty Nacional deGorongosa (p109) Bassa (p121)andgofishingonthelake Monte Namúli Caia Barragem deCahora Gurúè (p111) (p123) (p128) (p128),or seafood Parque
Parque Nacionalde Cahora Bassa Barragem de Gorongosa Beira Caia Monte Namúli Gurúè & feiras (gold-trading www.lonelyplanet.com 0 200 km CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE 0 120 miles
Lilongwe To Pemba River Mualádzi NIASSA Chanida Dedza (210km) Mandimba Cassacatiza Monte Dómwè (2095m) NAMPULA Nacala Luangwa Planalto de Rio Lúrio Planalto de Angónia Ulóngwe M A L A W I Entre Lagos Mutuáli Ribáuè Z A M B I A Morávia Furancungo Cuamba Namialo Malema Monte Ulóngwe TETE Lake Ὀ (1416m) ὈὈὈὈὈChilwa Mecanhelas Monte Namúli ὄIlha de Nampula ὅὅ Fíngoè Lioma (2419m) Alto Murrupula Moçambique Barragem de Zomba Ligonha CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE Cahora Bassa Liúpo Zumbo Molumbo Gurúè Nauela Zambezi River Songo Zóbuè Mogincual Lago Cahora Bassa Alto ὅὅ Matema Blantyre Molócuè Nametil Limbe Quinga Mágoè Namarrói Rio Ligonha ZAMBÉZIA Boroma Milange ὅὅ Mukumbura Moatize Errego Gilé Nampevo Angoche Tete Liciro Reserva de Rio Zambezi Mulevala Gilé Ὀ Chioco ὈὈLugela Ὀὄ Z I M B A B W E Nyamapanda Changara Mocuba Moma ὅVila Nova Mucubela ὅMualamaὅὅὅ da Fronteira Morrumbala Chinhoyi Olinga Pebane Guro Sena ὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ Namacurra Monte Morrumbala Mutarara (1172m) Nicoadala Praia de Zalala Caia Praia de Mundimo (Madal) Harare ὅὅ ὅὅὅ Catapu Chupanga Quelimane ὈCatandica ὄὈὄ Monte Gorongosa Inhamitanga ὅὅ Micaúneὅ Marondera (1862m) Marromeu Parque Nacional Inhaminga Machipanda Gorongosa de Gorongosa Chinde Rio Púngoè ὅὅὅὅὅ Nota Rio Urema Manica Chitengo Muanza Reserva de Kwe Kwe Mutare Marromeu Inchopeὅ SOFALA ὅὅὅ Chimoio EN6 Tica Rotanda Gweru ὈὈὅ DondoὈ Monte Binga Savane Búzi (2436m) Beira ὅὅὅὅ I N D I A N O C E A N Dombe Chiboma Sofala Masvingo Baía de ( M o z a m b i q u e C h a n n e l ) Espungabera EN1 ὅὅὅSofala
Rio Búzi MANICA ὅὅὅὅ ὈὈ Nova Mambone Save Bartolomeu Dias Rio Savé Parque Nacional Gonarezhou de Zinave INHAMBANE Inhassoro 105 National Park To Inhambane (300km); Archipélago de GAZA Maputo (460km) Bazaruto ὈὈὈὈὈ MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE and trading settlements dotted thenearbyand tradingsettlements least the9thcenturyAD,whensmall fishing of dates thearea toat Settlement aroundBeira History with anet. so cover andtravel upwellintheevenings, est placesinthecountrytocatch malaria, breezy stretch of coastline. addictive harbour-town energy andashort, placewithacompactcentralarea,pleasant an isareasonably image, Beira what tarnished nightlife.as foritstawdry Yet, despite asome- try’s busiestport,andasfamedforitsseafood bique’s second-largest city.It’salsothecoun- of capital Sofala province,Beira, isMozam- BEIRA –see Rio Zambezi p123 . point of interest islikely tobecrossingthe p186 . Fornorth–southtravellers, themain andZimbabwe,with Malawi, see Zambia region. Formore onlandbordercrossings and it’slikely the you’llatleastpassthrough Mozambiqueisatransportcrossroads Central &Away There Getting paths toavoid thedangers of oldlandmines. foot- central Mozambique, sticktowell-used in theMontes Chimanimaniorotherareas of As withelsewhere inthecountry,whenhiking Dangers &Annoyances area. a transfrontierconservation Montes Chimanimaniare protected aspartof accessible forgeneral tourism.Much of the and plansare underwaytomake themmore occasionalbirdinggroupsvisit, sions, although de Gilé–operate primarilyashuntingconces- deMarromeu andReserva including Reserva Mozambique’s otherprotectedCentral areas – well worthavisitifyouare inthearea; see p111 . slowly butsurely makingacomeback,andis Parque is NacionaldeGorongosa Beautiful 106 National Parks Parks National Beira hasareputation asoneof theeasi- Beira currency. the BankofBeiraeven circulated sterling early 20th-century Beira,andforatime ish influencewasstrong inlate 19th-and Maputo,Brit- Portuguese-dominated Unlike POUNDS STERLING CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••Beira transport monopoly.Yet, by thistimeBeira’s with SouthAfricaincreased, cuttingintoBeira’s (Zimbabwe). Rhodesia major portandexportchannel forSouthern soonbecamea rior wascompleted andBeira time,arailwaylinetotheinte-At thesame itsharbourfacilities. pany, begantodevelop the headquarters forhisMozambique Com- before ultimately goingtoPortugalin1891. of thetwocolonialpowers dispute between thenextdecade,itbecameafocus Over sea. from theirlandlocked inlandterritories tothe found thearea enticingasanexportchannel amoured charms. TheBritishalso of Beira’s Paiva deAndradawasnottheonlyoneen- control over theMozambicanhinterlands. intheirattempts tosolidifytheir Portuguese the manycharter upbythe companiesset ment of the Mozambique Company–oneof interior. He alsowanted topromote develop- as asupplypointforhisexpeditionsintothe Rio Púngoè,atthesite of present-day Beira, atthemouthof a base drada established the Paivaperialist namedJoaquimCarlos deAn- onasmallerscale.century, although decline, tradecontinuedwellintothe19th the fabled Sofala ( p112 ). FollowingSofala’s ofcoastline. was Themostimportant these kilometres alongthe oceanpastthe hospital to Av dasFPLM.This thenrunsforseveral and charming Gêaresidential Ponta area streets the shady leadsouth andeastthrough hub. FromPraça doMunicípio,tree-lined east isMaquinino, themainbusandtransport colonial-style architecture, whileabout 1km area), withtheportandsomecharming old the twosquares isthebaixa(oldcommercial ties, plusanarrayof sidewalkcafés.Northof find shops, banks,telecom andinternet facili- Nearhere,coin perched onapedestal). you’ll Metical (thelatter marked byalarge metical squares of PraçadoMunicípioand do The heartof thecityisarea around the Orientation to beRenamostrongholds. andSofala provinceand bothBeira continue Marínguè, nearGorongosa, northwestof Beira Afonso Dhlakamahadhisheadquarters at continued tobeoneof Mozambique’s hubs. andit significance asaportwasestablished During thewaryears, Renamoleader links From themid-20thcentury,Rhodesia’s Andrada, who meanwhile had made Beira Andrada, whomeanwhilehadmadeBeira landholderandim- In 1884aPortuguese
www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com 0 2 km BEIRA 0 1 mile
A B C D E F
INFORMATION EATING Av Poder Popular 7 Av Armando Tivane Rua Luís Inácio 786 Câmbios...... 1 C1 Biques...... (see 18) 31 Rua dos Açores BCI Fomento...... 2 C3 Cá Te Espero...... 27 C2 1 1 33 Clínica Avicena...... 3 C1 Café Capri...... 28 C2 32 Conselho Municipal...... 4 C2 Café Riviera...... 29 C2 Hospital Central...... 5 D4 Clube Náutico...... 30 D4
Main Post Office...... 6 A3 CENTRALMOZAMBIQUE••Beira Pappas...... 31 C1
R i o P ú n g o è Multicambios...... 7 C1 Pic-Nic...... 32 B1 3 Av K Gomes 38 36 Shoprite...... (see 35) Restaurante Ciné Nacional...... 33 B1 Standard Bank...... 8 B2 Restaurante Kanimambo...... 34 C3 To Mar Azul & 43 TDM...... 9 C2 Shoprite...... 35 B2 Buses to Quelimane (1km); Av Artur do Canto Resende Dondo (25km) 40 Praça do Teledata...... 10 C2 Take-Away 2 + 1...... 36 D1 Rio Savane (40km); Praça do Maquinino Metical Mezimbite Forest Centre (50km); SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES ENTERTAINMENT EN1 (125km) 8 Av de Naya Casa Infante de Sagres & Manica Art Bar Café...... (see 33) Shipping Company...... 11 A2 Biques...... (see 18) 27 Rua Major Serpa Pinto 2 Train 9 Cathedral...... 12 B3 Casa de Cultura...... 37 D2 Port Station Praça do Município 39 Golf Course...... 13 B3 Hotel Tivoli...... 38 C1 10 Mercado Central...... 14 C2 Kangas...... (see 19) 11 28 37 Mercado de Praia Nova...... 15 B2 15 14 See Enlargement 35 29 Mercado de Tchungamoyo...... 16 B3 SHOPPING
Av Poder Popular Swimming Pool...... (see 30) Craft Shop...... 39 C2 4 Av Armando 41 Craft Vendors...... (see 30) 42 19 SLEEPING Praça do Av SamoraTivane Machel Maquinino 0 200 m Beira Guest House...... 17 B3 TRANSPORT 0 0.1 miles 2 Rua Alfredo Lawley Biques...... 18 E4 Chapas to Chimoio...... 40 C2 Rua Correia de Brito Golf 16 34 Course Hotel Embaixador...... 19 C3 Chapas to Makuti...... 41 C2 20 Hotel Infante...... 20 C3 LAM...... 42 C3 22 Hotel Miramar...... 21 B4 Main Taxi Stand...... 43 C2 3 Hotel Savoy...... 22 D3 Panthera Azul...... 44 A3 Hotel Tivoli...... 23 C1 To Complexo Monte 6 Jardim das Velas...... 24 E4 44 Rua Pedro Verde (2.5km); 13 Mar e Sol...... 25 E4 Airport (5km); Alvares Cabral 12 Pensão Moderna...... 26 B4 Dondo (25km) Rua do General Machado Rua Correia de Brito Rua 17 Av Eduardo Mondlane Robe rto
26 Ivens Palmeiras Estrada Carlos Pereira Ponta Gêa
Rua 21 Av 24 de Julho Makuti Makuti Lighthouse CCXII Av Jaime Sigaúque 24 Rua de Porto Amélia Sansão Av Jaime Sigaúque 25 4 Av Mateus Muthemba Av das FPLM 18 5 Av Mártires da Revolução Av das FPLM Praia de Makuti
I N D I A N O C E A N 107
Av das FPLM
(Canal de Moçambique) 30 CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE the cathedral. Main postoffice Main POST Standard Bank Multicambios BCI Fomento 786 Câmbios airport andatShoprite (Av SamoraMachel). There are numerousATMs, includingatthe MONEY Teledata ACCESSINTERNET Clínica Avicena Hospital Central EMERGENCY Information do Município) daCidadeBeira Endereçamento days,butyoucantryatthe by these Municipal.Copiesare Conselho hardtocome incooperationwiththe Coopération Française Vias Endereçamento daCidade daBeira –Guiadas dade daBeira The excellent MAPS dating to1904. is theoldred-and-white Makuti lighthouse, smallstretching Beira’s of beach. Attheend to Makuti –anotherresidential area fring- 108 7pm) Diagonallyoppositethetelecomoffice. per transaction, original purchasereceipts required). original per transaction, changestravellerscheques (minimumUS$35 reluctantly Praça doMetical. Popular; testing. Malaria
of their products online (www.allanschwarz.com/bracelet.php). of theirproducts buzzes andstaffwillbehappytoshowyou around.It’salsopossibletoordersome withactivity) and otheritems thatare marketed internationally. be competitive inqualityat thehighestlevels, producingexclusive furniture designs, jewellery through maximisingtheforests’ andcraftpersonsto benefitstolocalresidents, ittrainsartisans ofthesurroundingforestsalong theEN6.Inadditiontopromoting sustainableconservation afew take opment projects, hourstovisitMezimbite Forest Centre, about50kmwestofBeira the scene. Ifyouhave timeandare extra interested inlearningaboutlocalsustainabledevel- Central Mozambique’s forests have long beenplundered, butthere’s finallysomegoodnewson MEZIMBITE FORESTCENTRE are partof of theseries mapsputoutby The centre canbevisited during thedaytime(andpreferably duringthedryseason, when it CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••Beira h (RuadeMoçambique;perhrUS$2; at Conselho Municipal. atConselho 24hr) For medical emergencies. Just north of 24hr) Formedicalemergencies. Justnorth (Rua Major Serpa Pinto) Serpa ATM; (RuaMajor oppositeLAM. (Rua Machado dosSantos)Changescash. (Rua Machado (RuadosAçores) Changescash. ( and the companion map booklet, andthecompanionmapbooklet, (Praça do Metical) ATM; (PraçadoMetical) alsorather Planta deEndereçamentodaCi- % ( (Rua Correia de Brito) Northwest of Northwest (RuaCorreia deBrito) % 23-327990, 84-3021520;Av Poder 23-312073/4; Av dasFPLM) ( %
23-329165; 5 Praça 23-329165; 5Praça h Gabinete de de Gabinete 7.30am- ungamoyo Market; Avungamoyo Market; ArmandoTivane), of thebetter placesintowntorelax, though Náutico anda of town. opposite ) makes afinedayorovernight trip. else. of fresh andjust about everything seafood, ket), westof PraçadoMunicípio,withpiles try fruit andvegetables. Ifneitherof suit, these centre isquieter, andthebestplacetobuy as ‘Goto’,isinthenortheastern cornerof town. It’sfullof imported goods,contraband swimming pool is possible)andthebreezes good.There’s a currents strong (asklocallywhere swimming south ornorth.Thewater ismoderately clean, it can’tcompare withthecoastlinefurther Company. de Sagres One towatch foristherestored are linedwithfadedcolonial-erabuildings. and thearea aroundtheport,where thestreets some charming oldhouses; look are thesurrounding fortinSofala.of SanCaetano Alsowortha 20th centurywithstonestaken fromtheruins southeast of thecentre, wasbuilt intheearly spired Beira’s Sights &Activities TDM TELEPHONE tral and someunsavoury characters. the green andwhitebuilding. lookfor ofPraçadoMunicípio; tional telephonecalls. North de Moçambique; The chaotic With your own transport, Rio Savane (see With yourowntransport,RioSavane (see Praia deMakuti Mercado dePraia Mercado
(Central Market; RuaCorreia deBrito) (Central Market; (Telecomunicações deMoçambique;RuaCompanhia (Telecomunicações , nowtheoffices of Manica Shipping h
golf course (Av dasFPLM;perdayUS$4) Mercado deTchungamoyo Mercado cathedral 7am-10pm) Domesticandinterna-
(Makuti Beach;Av(Makuti dasFPLM)
Nova inthesouthernpart www.lonelyplanet.com
(PraiaNova Mar- (Av EduardoMondlane) Ponta Gêa Praça doMetical known locally inthetown Mercado Cen- Mercado Casa Infante Infante Casa area, with atClube isone
(Tch- , ; s/tw/d US$14/16/20; person US$3, 5-person barracas US$6 plus per person US$6, d/q person US$3,5-personbarracasUS$6plusper US$6,d/q shoestring butdon’twanttocampatBiques. shoestring Embaixador andworthalookifyou’re ona Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com few nice,newplaces. mosttasteschoice andthere tosatisfy are a ofaccommodation options,ithasenough a with distinguish itself doesn’t While Beira Sleeping www.lonelyplanet.com barracas In addition tocamping,there are rustic several byanarrowpeninsula. fromthesea separated which onthe RioSavane, isinaserene setting it’s wellworthdriving outtothisrusticplace, vehicle andwanttoescapeforadayortwo, bungalowUS$50/100) self-catering and arestaurant. Infante hassmall,cleanroomswithbathroom, buildingnearHotel Embaixador,Hotelrise with fanUS$24/28,air-conUS$26/30; aeroplane inthecentre; knowit. allthetaxis cathedral andopposite theparkwithanold can bearranged. It’stwoblockssouthof the adequate, there’s apatiooutfrontandmeals with fanandshared bathroom–are fadedbut one of thebetter budget choices. Rooms– most d/tr US$24/31,dwithbathroom&air-conUS$34; There’s nofood. and notoptimalforsolowomentravellers. beach), butinconvenient totherest of town with private bathroom–nearthewater (no faded classic,withno-frills rooms–some tion isconvenient. The roomsare mediocre butthecentralloca- US$22) Pinto &Pedro AmilcarCabral;s/twUS$8/16,dwithbathroom from towncostaboutUS$3. where it’sabout 400mfurtheron foot.Taxis fromask themtodropyouattheturnoff, Takesunset. anychapa towardsMakuti and popular andit’sagoodspotforwatching the andrestaurant are the bar(withsatellite TV) once was,norare theablutions.However, isn’twhatittravellers days.Security these receive better days,anddoesn’t seen toomany Praia deMakuti, thiscampinggroundhas US$3.50; Biques BUDGET Hotel Savoy Hotel i Savane Rio Infante Hotel Pensão Moderna Miramar Hotel Inanageing grey nearHotel rise high
( % p (food stalls), self-catering chalets and self-catering (food stalls), 23-313051; Praia de Makuti; campingperperson 23-313051; PraiadeMakuti; ) Set on a breezy rise overlooking onabreezy rise Set ( %
(
( %
a % ( 23-323555, 82-385 7660; camping per 23-323555, 82-3857660;campingper %
( % 23-329302; cnr Ruas Major Serpa Serpa 23-329302; cnrRuasMajor ) 23-326603; RuaJaimeFerreira; s/d TheMiramarisanother 23-322283; RuaVilasBoasTruão; CENTRALMOZAMBIQUE••Beira 23-329901; RuaAlferes daSilva; If youhave yourown a Inahigh- ) a This is Thisis ) style B&B in the Ponta Gêaareastyle B&BinthePonta haspleasant the roomsspacious(albeitabitmusty)and often empty.Butthelocationisconvenient, and days,it’sratherdownattheheel These tophotel. Município, thiswasonceBeira’s US$1.50; Riviera Café CAFÉS at itsbest. can experiencethisold-fashioned portcity charm, andthe dining sceneiswhere you restaurants andcafésareBeira’s fullof faded Eating completed. ifit’sbeen around tosee –worth asking through rant whenwepassed being renovated andrestau- asaguesthouse breakfast isincludedintheprice. restaurant-bar.amenities, andasleek Buffet and ket, withsmallbuttidyroomsTV Tivoli businessmar- hascaptured Beira’s aip .mz; cnrAv s/dUS$83/99; deBagamoyo&RuadaMadeira; to theHotel Tivoli. stretchit’s worthalookifyourbudget doesn’t ap Pinto Serpa &BelegarddaSilva;s/dUS$38/50; Ruas Major red roof. Look forthepeach-coloured placewiththe room hasakitchenette. There are nomeals. andtheapartment-stylefamily nets andTV The doublescomewithminifridge, mosquito end of PraiadeMakuti nearthelighthouse. good reports about this newplaceatthe .com; 282Av dasFPLM;d/fUS$75/85; near Farmácia Beira. available forothermealsifyoubringfood.It’s ice. Breakfast isincludedandthere’s acook andlaundryserv- rooms withminifridge, TV Mondlane; r/steUS$75/100; Beira GuestHouse MIDRANGE &TOPEND sometimes bearranged withthecamp. to thecampsite. can Transfers fromBeira ing andasmallboat(until5pm)totake you 35km totheestuary,where there’s secure park- turn-off forSavane.the right-hand Continue ing. FollowtheDondoroadpastairportto meals. Thenearbywetlandsare idealforbird- The old TivoliHotel Embaixador Hotel Jardim dasVelas ) Afew blockssoutheastof Praçado h ) Inabusyarea of thebaixa, 7.30am-9pm)
(Praça do Município; snacks&lightmeals from (Praça doMunicípio; Mar eSol Mar
( % (
% ( 23-320300; h.tivoli-beira@teledata %
( 23-312209; jardimdasvelas@yahoo % Thisclassic, pinkOld
ai 23-324030; 1311Av Eduardo (Av dasFPLM,Makuti) 23-323785, 23-329057;cnr ) Thisresidential a We’ve heard )
was
109 CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE Clube Náutico are here notables –you get yourmealsatthe suited waiters atyourbeckandcall. windowless red-draped interior, with black- reasonable. Diningisina large andservice what outsizedforyouget, portionsare restaurants andwhileitsreputation issome- place wasreputed tobeoneof thecity’sbest from US$6; US$4.50; US$4-7; of PraçadoMunicípio. tablecloths. It’sjustnortheast local fare onplasticchecked ofinexpensive amodestselection a tinyrestaurant serving from US$2; Armando Tivane &Samora Machel) shouldhead to Self-caterers 2+1 Take-Away Cá Te Espero welcome rugbymatchesinfront. onthesand On Saturdayafternoons, there are all-comers- food madeenjoyable bythebeachside setting. era swimmingandsocialclub,withaverage plus perpersonentryUS$0.40; at taurant toHotel Tivoli.bience convivial.It’sclose on hotsizzleplatters are delicious,andtheam- L-shaped grills bar–butthesteak and seafood small butit’sareliable bet forvegetarians. should beordered inadvance).Portionsare ema buildingandknownforitscurries(which dowless placejustopposite Pic-Nicinthecin- and afriendlyproprietor. food bestChinese Embaixador, withBeira’s Pic-Nic RESTAURANTS Riviera,andwithgood Café 8am-8pm) US$1.50; overlookingtables thebeach. with soft, plumpsofas insideandoutdoor sit withacupof coffee and World sidewalkcaféisawonderfulspotto 110 smoky pubatmosphere. inadarkand seafoodandgrills 10pm) Portuguese-style panhia deMoçambique;mealsfromUS$5-12; (almond cake) andwatch thepassing scene, Restaurante Kanimambo Restaurante Capri Café Popular waterside hangoutsincludetheres- Other recommendations: Pappas CinéNacional Restaurante
CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••Beira ( h % h h Another Beira classic,justdownfrom AnotherBeira h a
(Rua dosAçores; mealsfromUS$2.50) lunch &dinnerSun-Fri) 23-326518; Rua Costa Serrão; mealsfromabout 23-326518; RuaCostaSerrão; breakfast, lunch&dinner) Biques 6.45am-9pm Mon-Fri, Sat7am-8.30pm,Sun 6.45am-9pm Mon-Fri,
( lunch&dinnerMon-Sat)
(Praça do Município; snacks&lightmealsfrom (Praça doMunicípio; % ) A usually empty takeaway counter,and ) Ausuallyemptytakeaway ( % (Av Artur do Canto Resende; meals (Av doCantoResende; Artur 82-447 8860,82-5626950;RuaCom- 23-311720; Av dasFPLM;mealsUS$6-11,
( % 23-313051; Praia de Makuti) 23-313051; PraiadeMakuti) h lunch &dinner) .
(Rua Costa Serrão; meals (Rua CostaSerrão; ( % bolo demandioca Behind Hotel Behind café espresso For years, this Adark,win- Shoprite 23-323132; meals , acolonial- h There 8am-
(cnr Avs and and .
opposite TDMandnexttoCáTe Espero. panhia deMoçambique; 82-394 4551; There are on flights AIR &Away There Getting but worthalookisthesmall andothercrafts.Pricier array of woodcarvings The vendors nearClubeNáuticohawkamodest Shopping barattheHotel Tivoli.stuffy gas (Hotel Embaixador)andtheclassy albeit thesmarterMakuti), Kan- withsatellite TV; ing programmesisposted bytheentrance. dance performances.Informationonupcom- Opposite Hotel Embaixador,withtheatre and airport. PraiadeMakutiis midwaybetween andthe Carlos Pereira; entryUS$2) after 11pm. andwillhaveclosed) snacks,drinksandaDJ bestbars (now torunoneofwho used Beira’s text waswritten. people It’srunbythesame ema buildingwasabouttoopenwhenthis late Wed-Sat) BarCafé Art Entertainment bus (US$30, 18hours) and/or oneregular Machel. there’s Otherwise, usually an‘express’ Grelha, atthesouthwestern endof Av Samora day fromthePanthera AzulofficeatPrédio 17 to18hours), departingat5amonThurs- Albuquerque, ComplexoSNJ) to yourdestination. toasklocalswhere you’ll need togofor buses Maquinino. There’s noreal ordertothings– isatPraçado maintransport stand Beira’s BUS &CHAPA Johannesburg. and Beira flies three between timesweekly link its dailyrunupanddownthecoast. ridor office isopposite Hotel Embaixador. Pemba, VilankuloandLichinga. TheLAM to/fromTete,weekly Nampula,Quelimane, daily to/fromMaputo, andthree tosixtimes Pinto) Serpa Major To Maputo, Other bars includeBiques(Praiade deCultura Casa Verde Complexo Monte
( ( % % 23-301569/70; www.saairlink.co.za; Airport) 23-301569/70; www.saairlink.co.za; 23-302222/3; Airport) Thispromisingplaceinthecin-
www.pantherazul.com; 43Av Mouzinhode (Ciné Nacional, Rua Costa Serrão; (Ciné Nacional,RuaCostaSerrão; weekly to/fromJohannesburg, weekly
( % h Panthera Azul 23-327858; Rua Major Serpa Pinto) Serpa 23-327858; RuaMajor Beira’s main nightclub mainnightclub Beira’s 4pm-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pmSat) 4pm-6pm Mon-Fri, LAM goes weekly (US$44, weekly goes www.lonelyplanet.com
( ( stops at Beira on stopsatBeira % % craft shop craft 23-324141/2; 85Rua 23-302341; Estrada
( % 23-325042, h (Rua Com-
Air Cor- 4pm to SAAir-
in thebus. you get stuckatthebridge, it’sbesttosleep bridge about 6amand7.30am.If –between –which overnightmal buses attheRioSave byabout 5am,andthenor-bus departsJunta before. ComingfromMaputo, theexpress 4.30am fromMaquinino; buytickets theday bus daily(US$24),bothdepartingbyabout www.lonelyplanet.com Major Pinto nearHotel Embaixador. Serpa Maquinino, withsome alsoleaving fromRua Chapas toMakuti (US$0.30) depart from BUS &CHAPA (US$8 inataxi). The airportisabout 7kmnorthwestof town TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting where youcancontinuebyrailtoHarare. road transportover theborderintoZimbabwe, indefinitely totake suspended.You’llneed toZimbabwe have been Passenger services TRAIN the day(US$2,twohours). andInchope throughout Beira run between tion exceptafew unappealing junctiontown,withnoaccommoda- scruffy waits are long.Inchope istheepitomeof a there,buses theyare though often fulland joins theEN1,andtryyourluckwithpassing wherechope, 130kmwestof theEN6 Beira, southbound transport,istoheadout to In- parktoCaia. Gorongosa roadrunningwestofgo viathenewtarmac bairro, about1kmnorthof thecentre, and departfromMarbuses AzulinPioneiros leaves inthemorning. in Chimoiosincetransportfromthere toTete transport there. Thiswillmeanovernighting but it’sbesttogofirst toChimoioandget are timesweekly, direct atleastseveral buses do Maquinino. are thedayfromPraça throughout minibuses and Machipanda (US$6,fourhours), there the final20kmtoVilankulo. on theEN1,fromwhere chapas regularly ply bus todropyouatPambara, thejunctiontown get anysouthboundby about5am.Otherwise, there’s adirect busdailydepartingMaquinino Another option,foranynorthbound or To Quelimane(US$16.50,ninehours), To Vilankulo(US$12,ninehours, 470km), To Tete (US$16,10hours, 600km),there To Chimoio(US$5,three hours, 200km) CENTRALMOZAMBIQUE••AroundBeira pensões . Chapas conservation areas. conservation most biologically diverse of all Mozambique’s valley,andisconsidered tobe the Zambezi of plainandthemassif, expanses coastal Great Riftsystem, thehulking Gorongosa thesouthernmostpartofencompasses the of ecologicalzones.Withinits5370sqkmit to theeastaroundRioUrema. abundance of water birdsinthewetlandareas many endemicsandnear-endemics, andan is thebirdlife, withover 300species,including mals hasbegun.Meanwhile, amajor attraction andotherani- wildebeests of zebras,buffaloes, createdhas been inthepark,where restocking alionortwo.luck –even Awildlife sanctuary kudus, warthogs,hippos,elephantsand– with that youwillseeim well worthavisitifyouare inthearea. It’slikely making adefinite comebackandtheparkis ofson withthose thepark’sheyday, wildlife is restoration andecotourismdevelopment. longtermMozambique tofundGorongosa’s has joinedhandswiththeGovernment of Foundation,which from theUS-based Carr has received amajor boostthankstoassistance reopened tovisitors. Inrecent years, thepark work beganin1995,and1998Gorongosa infrastructure wasdestroyed.Rehabilitation ing area washeavily minedandthepark’s namo headquarters were nearby,thesurround- Re- anendtothisabundance.brought Because and early1990s,hungrysoldiers andpoachers andrhinos. Duringthe1980s hippos, buffaloes prides of lions,aswellforitselephants, wildlife parks.Itwasrenowned foritslarge headlines asoneof SouthernAfrica’spremier Apr) .gorongosa.net; adult/child/vehicle US$8/2/8; Nacional deGorongosa About is 170kmnorthwestof Beira Parque NacionaldeGorongosa AROUND BEIRA your hotel fortheupdated numbers. business, andcompaniescomego,soask Praça doMaquinino. isatthewestern stand edgeThe maintaxi of TAXI [email protected]) www.imperial.co.za) agenciesRental include CAR While animalnumbers stillpaleincompari- Also alluringisthepark’suniquemixture , which wasgazetted in1960andsoonmade and , bothattheairport. Avis palas, water (GorongosaNationalPark; www
Taxis for don’tcruise
( % Imperial 23-301263, 82-5025360; ( %
bucks, oribis, bucks, oribis, h 23-302650/1; closed 1Dec-1 Parque
111 CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE quarters, andsixplainbutpleasant ablution blocksandhotwater atparkhead- of theentrygate, fromwhere tracks rough the main Beira–Chimoio roadisatInchope, the mainBeira–Chimoio hasanairstrip forcharterGorongosa flights. THERE&AWAYGETTING camping ground,plusatravellers dorm. restaurant. Alsocomingimminentlyisanew for Chitengo inthenearfuture, asisanew Luxurybungalowsareself-caterers. planned good local-stylemeals,andbraaifacilitiesfor also areasonably pricedrestaurant serving parkheadquarters.be madethrough There’s more rondavels comingsoon.Bookingsshould (s/d US$26/38) There isa SLEEPING payable inmeticaisonly. Note thatparkentryfees arethe rainyseason. Many areas of thepark are inaccessibleduring ters, soon. willbestarting andwalkingsafaris drives) canbearranged atparkheadquar- and guidesforwildlife drives (includingnight branch outtootherparkareas. Vehicle rental gorongosa.net) forupdates..gorongosa.net) near future. Checktheenticingwebsite (www many more improvements plannedforthe ture beinggraduallyupgraded,with hasbeen 112 Park headquarters reopening,Since Gorongosa’s infrastruc- By road, the turn-off for Gorongosa from forGorongosa By road,theturn-off port of port BúziisthesiteAbout 40kmsouthofBeiraandjusttheRio oftheancientgold-trading SOFALA along the coast, including the small modern-day port ofSofala. along the coast,includingthe smallmodern-day port the coast.Alternatively, there’s adailyferry forUS$4fromBeira,whichstopsat variouspoints by roadfromtheEN1, theturn-offisatChiboma;asklocally aboutconditionsfromChibomato southtoBúzialong aroughroadthat’sslated forrehabilitation.transport Ifyouare approaching heading alongtheEN6towardsChimoio andgetoffatTica, fromwhere there issporadicpublic to thinkofapersuasive reason anybus take tovisit.Togethere fromBeirabypublictransport, have beencompletely bythesea. overtaken (which layafewSofala’s formerglory.The outsidepresent-day kilometres ruinsofthefort Sofala) rapidlysunkintooblivion.Todaynothing remains ofthe maincoastalbaseandSofalaits fort arrived, traderoutes IlhadeMoçambiqueeclipsedSofala asthe Portuguese shifted northwards, However,Mozambique, soonafter wasbuiltatSofalain1505withstonesshippedfromPortugal. inties asfarawayMadagascar,Indiaandeven Indonesia. fort SanCaetano, thefirstPortuguese day Tanzania. Bythe 15thcentury,ithadbecomeoneofEastAfrica’s mostinfluentialcentres, with sultanate inpresent- atKilwa major linkbetweenthegoldtradeofinterior andthepowerful There isnotouristinfrastructure atSofala and unlessyou’re anavidhistorybuff,it’sdifficult CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••AroundBeira Sofala camp site are inChitengo, about15kmeast withbathroomsandnets, , dating from at least the 9th century AD. Sofala’s importance layinitsroleasthe , datingfromatleastthe9thcenturyAD.Sofala’simportance (
%
(camping perpersonUS$4) 23-535012, 23-535003;travel@ rondavels with
place in Southern Africa to see thegreen- place inSouthernAfricatosee slopesarewaterfalls. Themountain’s theonly plant andbirdlife anditsabundance of lovely Steeped inlocallore, it’sknownforitsrich mountain.Mozambique’s fourth-highest is Outside theparkboundariestonorthwest Gorongosa Monte size. US$100 perperson, dependingongroup Parkto Gorongosa US$50 and forbetween p116 ) organises allinclusive overnight trips Pink Papaya Backpackers inChimoio(see following). park ortoMonte (see Gorongosa ably pricedpick-upscanbearranged tothe here inthenearfuture, from where reason- park planstoopenaninformationoffice The town(‘VilaGorongosa’). Gorongosa transport headingnorthfromInchope to with thepark.Viapublictransport,take any canbearranged from ChimoioandBeira 4WD.Pick-upsbut forexploring,you’llneed can easilyreach theparkentrancewith2WD, headquarters, where youpayyourfees. You gate, it’sabout 15kmfurthertotheChitengo gravel roadtotheparkgate. Onceatthe tain robinandSwynnerton’sforesttain robin. thedappledmoun- places where youcansee headed oriole,andoneof justahandfulof from there, 17kmeastalonganall-weather villageNota andtheparkaccessroad, toit’s another43kmalongexcellenttarmac FromInchope,about 130kmwestof Beira. Monte Gorongosa Monte (Mt Gorongosa, 1863m), (MtGorongosa, www.lonelyplanet.com Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com park, isalsosupportingacommunity -based is financingtherehabilitation of Gorongosa Foundation,whicha localguide. TheCarr it’s possibletoclimbitsupperslopeswith www.lonelyplanet.com there camp. tothebase from Inchope), transfers willbeavailable from town isopen(reachable viapublictransport inGorongosa booking andinformation office unpaved camp.Oncethe tracktothebase andcontinue 10kmalongan to theright, the mainhighway town,turnoff Gorongosa town.Aboutto Gorongosa 10kmbeyond and continuinganother25kmorso further park forGorongosa road, passingtheturnoff Inchope. Continuenorthalongthetarmac at totheturn-off follow theEN6fromBeira degree of fitnessare essential. andareasonablethe summit.Goodshoes reaches, make thegoingslipperyapproaching with thesteepness of thepathon upper year, anditswet,humidconditions,combined receivesmountain about 2000mmof raina waived days.Thisisjustaswell:the these latter requirement tobeconveniently seems must beundertaken barefoot, this though andtheclimb when climbingthemountain communities. park website willgotothelocal fordetails) fees (tobedetermined soon–watch the headquarters [email protected]. All Meanwhile, toorganise hikes park contact guides andporters canalsobearranged. town,wherepark isplannedforGorongosa information centre and forthemountain six hours one-way).Abookingoffice and and overnight climbstothesummit(about one hour’seasywalkaway),birdingwalks the camp,there are paths tothefalls(about western sideatabout950m.Fromtain’s Morumbodzi Falls, which are onthemoun- birders upnearthebeautiful isbeingset campforhikers Abase the mountain. and will encompassalltourismandhikingon is stillintheearlystages, butoncegoing,it hood otherthanslash-and-burn agriculture, communities alternative sourcesof liveli- park. Theproject, which aimstogive local wildlifefor maintaining populationsinthe ecosystems thatarethe mountain essential and birding,withafocusonconserving centredmountain, aroundhikingtrails ecotourism andreforestation project onthe Monte isconsidered Gorongosa sacred, but To get camparea, totheMorumbodzibase According totradition,nored canbeworn CENTRALMOZAMBIQUE••Chimoio and akitchen andbraaiarea. Theownercan tion, withcamping,dormbedsanddoubles, popular backpackers andthebestbudget op- calls. can bearranged foramodest extracost. bathroom, andsomewith balcony. Breakfast floor,all with fanandcleansharedsecond has ahandfulof no-frills, breezy roomsonthe Austral building,thishomyplace the oldBanco &RuaDrAraújodelaCerda;s/dUS$8/19) de Setembro Forest Retreat ( p116 ). plusvisitsup toPinkPapayaGorongosa), in thearea (includingtoParque Nacionalde sort yououtwithhorse ridingand excursions ing perpersonUS$4,dm/dUS$8/24) papaya.atspace.com; cnrRuasPigivide &3deFevereiro; camp- Pink Papaya BUDGET Sleeping Teledata TDM TDM Standard Bank Shoprite BIM shouldbeavoided.stand The moneychangers loitering aroundthebus Information the spiritsonceattop. this oneandlocalsmaystilloffer aprayerto there are legends and traditions associated with placesinMozambique, andhigh all mountains about 10minutes toenjoysomeviews.As with youcanclimbupin distance. Onceatthebase, therockaheadof youinthe dirt road;you’llsee past Magarafa market andcontinuealongthe old manatrest. Toget here, take Rua doBárue Velho to thesouthwest. tes Chimanimani(ChimanimaniMountains) pointforexploringtheMon- the jumping-off and worthastopifyou’re inthearea. It’salso placewithanagreeableit’s apleasant climate its touristattractionsare decidedlymodest, and Mozambique’s fifth-largest town.While ofChimoio isthecapital Manica province, CHIMOIO Internet access. min US$0.04; Lumumba) ATM. Sat, 9am-3pmSun)Internetaccess.
Residencial FlôrdeVouga Residencial About 5kmnortheastof townis (Av ATM. 25deSetembro) (Shoprite; per30minUS$1.20; (Shoprite; (cnr RuasdoBárue&Patrice Lumumba) International , alarge rockthatresembles thefaceof an (cnrAv per &RuaMossurize; 25deSetembro (EN6)ATM. h
( % (cnrAv &RuaPatrice 25deSetembro 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pmSat) 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 82-555 7310,82-2372980;http://pink
( % Awelcomingand h 251-22469; cnrAv 25 9am-8pm Mon- Cabeça do do Cabeça Above Above
113 CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL Chimoio CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE US$32; US$12/20, rwithbathroomUS$24,&air-con water. It’sabout 2km eastof town, andabout and hot All have theirown bathroom, fan,TV buildingnearby. musty roomsina separate and countryside– andsimple,nicernon- views over thesurroundingflower gardens roomsinanold windmill –allwith pleasant US$24-28) Moinho Motel MIDRANGE as Pensão FlôrdeVouga. building nearthepostoffice. Formerlyknown mustyroomsinacavernous,slightly noisy worth alookifelsewhere isfull,withspacious, 114 Zimbabwe Border(95km) Manica (70km);PenhaLonga(90km) Barragem deChicambaReal(50km); Airfield (10km);Garuzo(45km); To Chicoteca(5km); 4 1 3 2 CHIMOIO Pensão Atlântida Praça da OMM a CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••Chimoio Thisatmosphericplacehasmustybut INFORMATION Teledata...... TDM...... BIM...... tnadBn...... C3 Standard Bank...... ) 5 Inferior totheotheroptions,but Rua Sussundenga AC
( % Praça dos Heróis Av 25 de Setembro 251-24762; rUS$20,inwindmill
( % 251-22169; RuadoBárue;s/d Government Multistorey Buildings EN6 7 4 3 2 1
Rua 3 de Fevereiro C3 C3 C3 Rua dos Trabalhadores dos Rua 9
Rua 16 de Junho Church B SLEEPING Residencial FlôrdeVouga...... Pink Papaya...... Hotel-Residencial CasteloBranco... esoAlnia...... B3 Pensão Atlântida......
Rua do Bárue Av 25 de Setembro de 25 Av 8 6 ὈὈ ὈὈ
Maúa (300m);Executive Rua Dr Araújo de la Cerda
Rua Pigivide Entrance; Restaurante Manica Hotel(500m) 1 To FeiraPopular white house overlookingwhite house small gardensjust hike backfromthebusstation. US$65/100; balcony. come withbathroom, minifridge andasmall the twin-bedded rooms modern andspiffy; ness travellers andaidworkers. Everything is off PraçadosHeróis, andfrequented bybusi- pa Rua Sussundenga;rwithout/withbreakfast US$50/62; the windmill bus, asktoget droppedonthemainroadnear via costs extra. If you’re arrivingfromBeira unless youhave yourowntransport.Breakfast
Rua do Hospital 1km off the EN6 from Beira –inconvenient theEN6fromBeira 1km off 3 2 Executive Manica Hotel Manica Executive Hotel-Residencial Castelo Branco Castelo Hotel-Residencial
Popular Rua Patrice Lumumba Feira ) Park Thenicestroomsintown,alarge Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Train Station 11 8 7 6 5 pa B3 B3 A3 Rua dos Oprimidos (moinho) LAM...... O NossoTake-Away...... Elo 4...... TRANSPORT EATING u tn...... C4 Bus Stand...... ) 4 This longstanding placeis Thislongstanding
Rua Dr Américo Boavida
Rua Mossurize 400m 0.2miles 0 0 turnoff, toavoid turnoff, the Motel Moinho(2km);
To Shoprite(1.5km); Rua Cidade de Lichinga ( Beira (190km) % 12 251-23135; r/ste Magarafa Market
D ( Mosque Rua dos Operários % 10 EN6 do Velho(5km) 12 11 10 251-23934; 9 To Cabeça D3 D3 B3 Rua dos Agricultores with localfare. west of Chimoioalong theManica road. 10km fromtown,andsignposted about5km Vilankulo, Tete andMaputo. Theairfieldis government buildinginthetowncentre, this Mon) 5km outof town:followthemainroadwest but better, brighterroomsaroundasmall the mainbuildingandsimilarlyappointed in roomswithTV comfortable nevertheless somewhatoverfurnished but ficient service, Manica’s onlyotherupscalehotel, withef- www.lonelyplanet.com northbound transport. togetstill need out atInchope andwaitfor you‘direct’touts tryingtosell tickets –you’ll way instages viaInchope Watch andCaia. for on totheborder. chapas toManica (US$1.80,onehour)and three hours) theday,asdo runthroughout border. (US$5, toBeira Chapasandminibuses times continuingontoZóbuèthe Malawi Chimoio at4am(US$9,sixhours), andsome- tion. ToTete, there’s adailybusdeparting All transportleaves fromnearthetrainsta- BUS &CHAPA ( There on weekly are flights several AIR &Around There Getting of thetowncentre. ing onMonday),includingthelongstand- closed of goodrestaurants (most townhasseveral again totherestaurant. for about500m,thenleft250m, to thesignposted turnoff. Gosouthfromhere and areasonable choice dining. forshoestring eastern edge of townnearthe railwaytracks, mealsfromUS$1; Operários; dishes. pizzas andItalian is themostpopulareatery intown,withgood Elo 4 Eating edge of town. signposted the eastern off bypassroadatthe a restaurant. It’sneartheFeira Popularand garden inanadjoiningannexe. There’s also % Self-caterers cantry Self-caterers The Feira Popular atthesouthernedge For Quelimane, you’ll need tomakeFor Quelimane,you’ll need your Chicoteca O NossoTake-Away 251-22531; Rua dos Operários, at Mafúia Comercial) atMafúia 251-22531; RuadosOperários, Serves grills and standard fare. grillsandstandard It’sabout Serves Maúa
(Av mealsUS$3-8) 25deSetembro;
(meals fromUS$2;
(meals fromUS$4;
(cnr Ruas dos Trabalhadores & dos (cnr RuasdosTrabalhadores &dos h CENTRALMOZAMBIQUE••AroundChimoio Shoprite 6am-10pm Wed-Mon) h h lunch &dinnerTue-Sun) lunch &dinnerWed- (EN6) Opposite the
, 2kmeast At the Atthe LAM to ,
is about 45kmwestof Chimoio,fromwhere future Thesignposted turnoff was uncertain. open whenthisbookwasresearched andits ing out,asthecomplexwasonlyerratically around inChimoioforanupdate before head- orask Call it’ssometimesclosed. though overlooking thelake. There’s arestaurant, has camping,plusfadedroomsandrondavels camping perpersonUS$5,dUS$30,3-bedrondavelsUS$50) functioning popular withbassanglers. Thesporadically camba RealDam), is theplacid About ChimoioandManica halfwaybetween AROUND CHIMOIO by themarket, oraskyourhotel toringone. in frontof theparkonAv or 25deSetembro Chimoio hasacoupleof –lookforthem taxis TAXI for southbound transport. there), orget outatInchope andwaitthere (andovernight togoviaBeira you’ll need (260km) To Harare Mutare daily at 4am (US$14, 10 hours). Otherwise, daily at4am(US$14,10hours). Otherwise, AROUND CHIMOIO Mutambara A9 To Vilankulo,there’s adirect busleaving Machipanda Z I M B A B W E Mountains Rock Paintings Vumba Chinamapere Chimanimani Penha Longa
Mutombomwe Montes Chimanimani Montes Monte Tsetserra Casa Msika Casa Vumba Barragem deChicambaReal Camp Tsetserra Manica Chicamba Real Rotanda Barragem de Casa Msika To PinkPapayaForest Retreat (55km);
Tete (320km) set amonglowhillsand set 40km 20miles 0 0 (
% Manica Monte Binga Chikukwa Camp Mavita Garuzo (2436m) 251-66009; fax251-22675; Chicamba EN6
Zomba Camp Rio Revué Rio Dombe (192km) To Beira Chimoio (Chi- 115
CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE are planned, asisabar. Theownerplansto addition tocampingandadorm,rondavels on alarge farmsoutheastof In Catandica. open whenthisbookwasresearched. It’sset Papaya backpackers inChimoioandnotyet managementplace underthesame asPink train lineandnowavery quiettown.Nearby unlikely thatPensão event Flamingoisfull, restaurant. bathroom andfan –plusagardenand placehassimple rooms– this spiffy allwith main road,afew blockswest of BIMExpresso, Pensão Flamingo Sleeping &Eating bique’s ÁguaVumbamineralwater. guage) andthebottlingplantfor Mozam- (which means ‘mist’inthelocalManika lan- can visitthesite. tion, nopregnant ormenstruatingwomen ‘ south alongadirtroad,followingsignsfor go westfromManica about3km,andthen the gold tradingarea. About 5kmfromtownare of thekingdomof Manica andanimportant moio, issituated inwhatwasoncetheheart Tiny, picturesque Manica, 70kmwestof Chi- MANICA Púngoè bridge. the signposted turnoff 6kmnorthof theRio with PinkPapaya foranupdate. Watch for ing intheforest andotherexcursions. Check tripsalongtheriver,offer hikes canoe orbik- lunch aboutUS$20) US$10, rondavelsperpersonUS$15,dayexcursionsincluding [email protected]; campingperpersonUS$5,dm Retreat Forest about 6kmoff theroadtoTete is route before wasbuilt. thehighway tobethemainChimoio–ManicaGaruzo used is asmallwaterfall. Theroadrunningthrough road issleepy camba Realandabout10kmnorthof themain no publictransportfromtheturnoff. Msika. There’sit’s 4kmfurthersouthtoCasa 116 a briefprayerceremony. Accordingtotradi- before yourvisit,anelderlyladywillconduct is considered sacred bylocalresidents, and pinturas rupestres’ Opposite theturnoff forBarragem deChi- Motel Guida Motel kilometres south ofSeveral Manica is There’s anATM at About 100kmnorthwestof Chimoioand Chinamapere Chinamapere rock paintings CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE •• Manica CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••Manica (
%
Garuzo , a camping and self-catering , acampingandself-catering ( %
( 82-555 7310,inZimbabwe091-207064; % 251-62437; r US$14-26) . Thesite of thepaintings 251-62385; rUS$18) , onceabusystoponthe BIM Expresso . Toget here, (EN6).
Pink Papaya Onthe Inthe Vumba
several lessappealing rondavelsseveral thatare tiny, andprivate bathrooms.Inbackare with TV larger onesare nice–allreasonably spacious, around tranquil,manicured gardens.The amenable placehasstonerondavels scattered turnoff justafter theimmigrationoffice), this off themainroad(watch forthesignposted At thewestern endof town,andabout 400m .mz; small/largerondavelsUS$20/30,6-personhouseUS$40) can bearranged. before theturnoff forManica Lodge. Meals bathroom. It’satthewestern edge of townjust spacious, no-frills roomswithfanandshared João’ (two tothree hours fromManica), which Ask the driver todropyouat ‘Paragem do villagetanda intheMontes Chimanimani. there are direct chapas from Manica toRo- Monday, Tuesday, Thursday andSaturday), 30 minutes).(currently Fourtimesweekly hour) andtotheZimbabweborder (US$0.60, frequently to/fromChimoio(US$1.80,one agonally opposite BIMExpresso. Chapas run All transportdepartsfromthemarket, di- &Away There Getting 25km eastofManica. along themainroadatedgeofpineforest, about O OutroLado centre. MostlyusedasadaygetawayfromChimoio. information grounds witharestaurant andatinytourist roomsinlarge withsterile About 42kmeastofManica, bathroom US$20,swimmingpoolperpersonUS$1; Estalagem Selva house. a three-room self-catering and withoutTV. There’s alsoarestaurant and this hotel isadecentbudget alternative, with Manica Lodge Manica Also recommended: in Mutare. to Nyakwanikwa(thepresent-day residents ofPenha Longastillprofess loyalty border tiesremain strongandMozambican control,cross- underPortuguese ern part Longa underBritishcontrol,andtheeast- treaty that putwesternPortuguese Penha (Zimbabwe). Despite adivisive 1891Anglo– controls thearea frompresent-day Mutare ofManica,who of therulerkingdom been loyaltothe drawn, thepeopleofPenha Longahave Since longbefore colonialboundarieswere THE MUTASA Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com (EN6;mealsUS$3-4)Asmallrestaurant (
( % % 251-62452; manica.lodge@teledata mutasa 82-5702480; EN6;rwithfan& www.lonelyplanet.com , thedynastictitle mutasa s ) ) The mountainous The mountainous Penha Longaarea straddles LONGAPENHA ofbase Monte Tsetserra (see p118 ). is withina1kmwalkof thecampsite atthe www.lonelyplanet.com the caretaker toshowyoutheway something withlocalvillagers. –ask Better on thegroundsforanegotiablefee orarrange Gaswa isoccupied,youcanalsopitch atent Manica; hikingguidescanbearranged. IfCasa of Penha Longa. Bring foodanddrinkfrom person rondavel intheMutombomwearea at often indesignsof blackandwhite. paints madefromnaturalpigments,most types of claywhich are thenembellishedwith side wallsare achieved bymixingvarious clays. Thedistinctive decorationsontheout- layered withochre-, grey- andolive-coloured The dwellingsare madeof brickandthen small storage areas onthecompoundaswell. There byadultsforsleeping. areused often the groundbyafew stonesatthecorners and is asmallersquare off building,usuallyraised doubles asachildren’s area. sleeping Nearby including alarge roundkitchen which often typically consistof acluster of buildings, ing compoundsdottingthehillsides.These theirtraditionalpainted dwell- and you’llsee (Zimbabwe) onthemainroad. Machipandacrossing isbetween andMutare cross-border border activity,theonlyofficial theretion spots.Although isplentyof local easily undertaken fromthe local accommoda- and offers manywalks,allof which canbe 20km northof Manica. It’scoolandscenic the borderwithZimbabwe, beginningabout Penha LongaishometotheShona people, It’s sometimespossibletoarrange tosleep themselves andresist theGazainvaders. and wouldeatit thenfallill.Inthisway,theresidents ofPenha Longawere abletoprotect poisonous.yam, alocalstaple, itwasactually The invaderswere notable totell thedifference plant fortheinvaders andthenfleethevillage. Althoughthistypeofrootclosely resembled Ngungunhane coming,theywouldnotify thevillagers,whowouldsetoutrootsfromacertain from where theyhadwideviewsdown over thevalleys. Whentheseheraldssawtheforces of send heraldsupthemountaintoMudododo village(onwhatisnowtheZimbabweborder), raids intoManica. Toprotect themselves fromtheinvaders,peopleofPenha Longawould Gaza chief Ngungunhane. ofManica.were Tothesoutheastwasterritory thelands ofthekingdom ofthepowerful During thelate 19thcentury,Penha Longalayinthecentre ofadisputed area. Tothewest A LEGENDOFPENHA LONGA Casa Gaswa Casa These two kingdoms had longbeenenemies,andNgungunhane’stroopsstagedfrequentThese twokingdoms
(rondavel US$6) CENTRALMOZAMBIQUE••MontesChimanimani , asimplethree- Quinta is particularly notable foritsabundanceofis particularlynotable area. Chimanimani transfrontier conservation in Zimbabwe have designated been partof a together withChimanimaniNationalPark hogany –andexceptionallybiodiverse, and are of beautiful–withstands pineandma- ing upontheireastern edge. Themountains peak,ris- (2436m), Mozambique’shighest Montes Chimanimani,withMonte Binga babwe bordersouthwestof Chimoioare the Silhouetted againstthehorizononZim- MONTES CHIMANIMANI able conditionduringthedryseason. your left.Theroadisunpaved, butinreason- Gaswawillbeonthehillsideto 20km. Casa Mutombomwe bairroisreached after about at thefirst atthesecond. fork,thenright ket. Continuepastthemarket, left staying the centre of Manica towntowardsthemar- the way. daFronteira.to Quinta Ask localstopoint Gaswa,andfromthere, 3kmfurtherCasa it’s a20-minute walktoMutombomweand From thechapa terminus inPenha Longa, Manica andPenha Longa(US$1,onehour). timesdailybetweenChapas runseveral &Away There Getting the market. 62222) atKwaedzaSimukaiManica, opposite ( DinisZandamela contact drink here, too. ForinformationinManica, tobringyourownfoodand camp. You’llneed they have afew basicroomsandyoucan It’s slowlybeingrehabilitated, butmeanwhile Casa GaswawitharefreshingCasa stream nearby. da Fronteira Driving, turnnorthattheintersection in , anoldmansionabout 3kmfrom % 251-62217, 251-
117 CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE mani section. tree branches. other villages. (reachable by publictransport) andseveral There are alsocampsatthelow-lying Zomba, ing Monte Binga,aswell for otherhikes. by forest, for climb- andwhich isthebase scenically located inavalleysurrounded is thecampatChikukwavillage, which is area where youcancamp. are theruinsof anoldmansion,andanother various dayorovernight walks.Atthesummit Monte Tsetserra (five hours return), ordo somebeautifulforestthrough tothetopof moio andManica. Fromhere, youcanclimb reachable on publictransportfrombothChi- of atthebase Monte Tsetserra,Camp, and Mon-Fri) % stop bythe (which canalsobearranged atthecampsites), the localculture. For helparrangingguides ties, it’sagoodwaytoget acquainted with and don’tminddoingwithouttheameni- have accesstoagood4WD self-sufficient, butifyou’relimited duringtherainyseason, on foot.Everything’s very basicandaccessis plore andsurroundingplains themountains foranyonewantingtoex- days uptoaweek) campsites andhikes (rangingfromseveral There’s afledglingnetworkof very rustic Chimanimani intheMontes Hiking the barkof odd-lookinghiveslikely (madefrom tosee andyou’re iswidelypractised beekeeping some of thepeaksthemselves. Traditional areas inthefoothillsof and themountains, by localcommunities,asare someof theforest and poolsinthisarea are considered sacred locations.Manyfound atseveral of therivers atChinamapere those (see p116 ) have been rich traditional life. Rock paintingssimilarto Montes Chimanimani have alonghistoryand and countless smalleranimals. bushbuck, duiker, eland,sable, klipspringer barred cuckoo. Roundingoutthepicture are the rare southernbandedsnake eagleand the There isalsoamultitudeof birds,including their medicinalvaluebytraditionalhealers. identified here, manyof which are prizedfor plants. Atleast50uniquespecieshave been 118 Like thePenha Longaarea tothenorth, Another option(reachable onlyby4WD) The easiestcamptoreach isTsetserra 251-22075, 251-22706;RuaPigivide; CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••Tete inChimoioandaskfortheChimani- Direcção Provincial de Agricultura deAgricultura Provincial Direcção brachystegia trees) hangingfrom h 7.30am-3.30pm (DPA; for Barragem deChicambaRealforabout Tsetserra take thesignposted Camp, turnoff Mavita andRotanda. ForMonte Tsetserra and the MozambiquesideisfromChimoiovia The bestaccesstotheChimanimaniarea on &Away There Getting Camp). (bestarranged atChikukwaguide isessential withfoodandwater anda be self-sufficient ChimoioandChikukwa. totween You’llneed from Mozambique,includingtravel timebe- oftion). Allowatotal fourdaysfortheclimb preceding sec- on theZimbabweborder(see Mozambique, beginningatChikukwaCamp own transport,it’salsopossibletoclimbfrom approach fromZimbabwe. Ifyouhave your The mainwaytoclimb Monte Bingaisto Binga Climbing Monte avoid thedangers of oldlandmines. per two-person hut.Sticktobeaten paths to per dayforaguide,US$3meal,andUS$8 what foodandsupplies.Fees are aboutUS$5 guide tosortoutwhoisexpected tobring heading off, it’sworthhaving achat withyour the bestplaceforstockinguphikes. Before along abagtopackoutyourtrash. Chimoiois your gear isalsoagoodidea,asbringing Waterproofing and befullyself-sufficient. capitals. unlike thatof Mozambique’s otherprovincial it auniquecharm andanatmosphere quite givesby thewideswathe of theRioZambezi, landscape, dotted withbaobab trees andcut discourages visitors. Yet, thearid,brown of thehottest placesinMozambique often of touristattractionsanditsreputation asone Dry, dusty Tete have doesn’t much intheway TETE 4WDisessential. For self-drivers, on foottoChikukwa(aguideisnecessary). fromwhereturnoff, it’sabout 30km further the signposted Chimanimani/Chimbuwane Afterand Rotanda. passing Mavita, watch for for anothervehicle goingtowardsMavita fromwhere towaitsendenga, you’llneed steam, take achapa fromChimoiotoSus- 60km tothetopof Tsetserra peak. (4WD) astheroadwindsscenicallyforabout tion buildings.Fromhere, continuesoutheast 15km southwardstothedamadministra- To reach onyourown ChikukwaCamp For allhikes, tohave you’llneed aguide, www.lonelyplanet.com Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Diagonally oppositeandupfromPrédios h It grew to significance during the 16th and 17th It grew to significanceduringthe16thand17th and todayremains amajor transportjunction. outpost wellbefore thearrivalof thePortuguese Tete SwahiliArab trading wasanimportant History www.lonelyplanet.com fort Zambezi andtheremains of anoldPortuguese long Tete’s are mainsights theimpressive 538m- Sights &Activities TDM Standard Bank Café MBC Internet from HotelZambeze. Immigration office BIM Expresso Information and Ngoni. Tete city;ChewaneartheMalawi border; the major townsintheMozambicaninterior. with apopulationof 50,000,itisoneof roughly which openedin1974.Today, Bassa, at Cahora received aboostwiththebuildingof thedam the governor were built.More recently, Tete centre for andahouse in1767,andahospital Itbecamearegional administrative Zambezi. and theexpansionof goldminingnorthof the opening of thegoldfairatZumbotowest century, itagainbegantoprosperwiththe their footholdinthehinterlands. Inthe18th lost all butabandonedwhenthePortuguese inland. Attheendof the17thcentury,itwas for tradecaravans tothegoldfieldsfurther asadeparture point centuries whenitserved international telephonecalls. Zambeze. pendência) ATM toHotel andcanchangecashdollars;next The mainlanguages are Nyungwe,around Delgado) where dancing. you’ll seemasked areas of Mozambique (inadditionto Cabo Tete isalsointeresting asoneofthefew cool climate, with beautifulhillpanoramas. of whichliesataltitude,enjoysadelightfully Tete,south ishotandarid,northern much the rest ofthecountrybyMalawi.While the bique, lyinginlandandalmostdivided from Tete province isananomalywithinMozam- PROVINCETETE 7.30am-noon & 2pm-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pmSat) 7.30am-noon &2pm-5.30pmMon-Fri, ontheriver nearthebridge. (Av 25deJunho; suspension bridge (Av JuliusNyerere) ATM. (cnrAv JuliusNyerere &Av daInde- (Av JuliusNyerere; perminUS$0.04; (Rua Macombre) Afew (RuaMacombre) blocksup h 7am-10pm) Domesticand CENTRALMOZAMBIQUE••Tete thatspanstheRio
Univendas. a Julius Nyerere; s/dUS$22/31,withbathroomfromUS$42/52; cool (good air-con), of withagoodselection from US$0.80; Confiança Pastelaria Eating (no alcohol) andhelpfulmanagement. views withbreezes. There’s agoodrestaurant andplacidriverhave private bathroom,TV option. Thelow-ceilinged butspacious rooms unassuming placeisTete’s mostupmarket tre to Changara,this alongthemainroad about 25minutes onfootfromthetowncen- On theriver about1kmpastPiscina,and on Av daIndependência. around thecornerfromUnivendas shop andsharedfan, air-con, bathroom)isjust TV restaurant. Breakfast costsextra. rooms –allwiththeirownbathroomanda is astep or twoup,withsmallbuttolerable a ard Bank. It’s inthelowerpartof townnexttoStand- maytell you).There’sstaff alsoarestaurant. (and theydon’thave hotwater, despite what erately clean,theshared bathroomsless so is themainbudget option.Roomsare mod- unappealing, thiscavernous, grey high-rise highlyand centrallylocated, butotherwise s/d US$10/14,withair-confromUS$16/22; Zambeze Hotel Sleeping kwacha are accepted here aswellmeticais. tiedintotheMalawianand isclosely economy; isjust20kmwestof capital, theborder pleasant there are notouristfacilities. Ulóngwe, its also ascenicarea andgoodforwalks,although especially ifyou’ve justcomefromTete. It’s has awonderfullycoolandrefreshing climate, 1000mand1500minaltitude, between the districtof scale. years, activitieshave recommenced onasmall tive church. After beingabandoned formany its carpentry-trainingcentre anditsattrac- aries, itwasknownforitsschool Mission). Foundedin1885byJesuit mission- ing theriver isthe Complexo Piscina Northeast of Tete neartheMalawi borderis Motel TeteMotel Prédios Univendas ) ) About 25kmnorthwestof Tete overlook- Piscina,ontheriverbank underthebridge, Theentrancetotherooms(mostwith h
( %
Angónia ( 7.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; % 252-22345; EN103;rUS$42; 252-23100/3; Av EduardoMondlane;
(
(Av 25deJunho;snacks&lightmeals %
( % Missão deBoroma Missão , which onaplateau isset 252-23079; s/d/trUS$12/20/24; 252-23198/9, 252-22670;Av a a ) Clean and (colégio) (Boroma Cheap ) pa 119
) , CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE the bestbetforself-caterers. on thewestern sideof town.Attheborder hours) andDedzafromMercado daOUA For Malawi, chapas runtoZóbuè(US$2,two BUS &CHAPA Moatize. There are notaxis. Moatize road;take anychapa headingto pula, QuelimaneandChimoio. Lichinga, withMaputo, Nam- weekly Beira, de Julho) There are on flights AIR &Away There Getting ing culturalevents. end of town,provides informationonupcom- Municipal GardenIIICongresso atthelower under thebridge. group) anyof thesmallbars liningtheriver outdoor patioatMotel Tete, or(onlygoina over includethe ing thesunset theZambezi Good spotstoenjoyacooldrinkwhilewatch- & Entertainment Drinking fast service. andrelativelyviews, agoodmenuselection meals fromUS$3) chicken Next doortoPiscinaandknownforits andlots ofcheese trimmings. tion) hasthebestpizzaintown,withfresh fromrecep- (goright floor of Hotel Zambeze h meals, pluspastriesandbeverages. snacks, hamburgers, omelettes andotherlight 120 Freitas Pino’s Pizza The airportis6kmoutof townonthe Casa deCultura Casa Of thehotels, Mutarara and Sena. oftheriver arebican portion thesuspensionbridge atTete andthe DonaAnabridgebetween settlements nearthe river deltainthe hopeofgainingaccesstowestern goldfields. traders hadmadetheirwayupriver atleastasfarSena andTete, hadbuilt andthePortuguese Zambezi deltatoTete before Bassarapids. hisprogress bytheCahora Earlier,Arab wasthwarted Among thenotablesithascarriedwas Livingstone,whotookapaddlesteamer upriver fromthe about 1000kmthroughthecountrybefore spillingintotheseanearChinde,south ofQuelimane. The mighty Zambezi tumblesintoMozambique atZumbo inwestern Tete province andflows RIO ZAMBEZI dinner) Apart fromtheCaia ferryApart (soontobereplaced byabridge),the onlylinksover the Mozam- asahighwaybetween thecoastandinterior.Up to8kmwideatpoints,ithaslongserved CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••Tete connectingTete three tofourtimes This Italian-run placeontheground ThisItalian-run zambeziana
(meals US$6-8; hasthebestdining,withriverside Supermercado Tete
(Av EduardoMondlane;pizzasfromUS$2.50;
(Av EduardoMondlane) Motel TeteMotel . h LAM lunch &dinnerWed-Mon)
( ( % %
(Av 25deJunho) 252-22345; EN103; 252-22056; Av 24 , nearthe is
and Mandimba isbestdoneinstages. part of townnearthecathedral. Correios buildinginthelower (post office) pick-upsdepartdailyfromtheold several onRuadoQua.stand thedayfromMoatizebus throughout 4.30amand5am. between Prédios Univendas, withthefirst departures port leaves near fromopposite PrédioEmose (ontheborder). sacatiza and fromthere, infrequent transporttoCas- wherestation, you’llfindchapas toMatema, bridge pasttheSOScompoundtopetrol the dailyHarare–Blantyre buses. and theroadtoHarare andtrytocatch oneof is towaitattheintersection of thebridge road transport fromthere. Another(pricier)option to Changara(US$2.80,1½hours) andget Mercado 1deMaio (alongAv 25deJunho) and Blantyre. stops inTete onitsroute Harare between Confiança. Alternatively, catch thebusthat from Av 25deJunho,downfromPastelaria on toZóbuè,departingTete about 10am The dailybusfromChimoioalsocontinues tochangeyou’ll need toMalawian transport. get out attheAngóniajunctionabout15km take anycarheading toZóbuè, Otherwise, chapa departingdailyfromMercado daOUA. about 1.5kmwestof Mercado daOUA. place towaitisattheBoromaroadjunction, thegoingisslow.Thebest to hitch, although pas leaving fromMercado daOUA. It’spossible To Ulóngwe,there isatleastonedirect To Boroma,there are occasionaldirect cha- Bassa), deCahora To Songo(forBarragem Chapas toMoatize(US$0.35)depart take aMoatizechapa overFor Zambia, the For Harare (Zimbabwe),take achapa from The Tete toLichinga journeyviaBlantyre For Chimoio(US$9,sixhours), alltrans- www.lonelyplanet.com per dayplusfuel. arrange carrental; expecttopayaboutUS$100 there. before Zóbuèandget onwardtransportfrom www.lonelyplanet.com early expectations. Onemajorearly expectations. reason was tofulfilling hasnot come close Bassa Cahora new homeshadto bebuilt. border,more than24,000 Zambia–Zimbabwe construction of thenearbyKariba Damonthe was notasgreat aproblemasitwaswiththe While resettlement of peoplelivinginthearea atTete.bridge wasbuiltacrosstheZambezi railways hadtobemodified,andasuspension forthedam, existingroadsand ment needed completed in1974.Tomove alltheequip- construction, themassive was undertaking despite repeated Frelimo during attacks private investment. in Western countriesworked todiscourage an international scale,assympatheticgroups the late 1960s. Oppositionwasorganised on the dam’sconstructionamajor objective in rule inSouthernAfricaandmadeblocking asaperpetuationof whiteBassa minority by Frelimo. Party leadership viewedCahora would irrigate. Thiswasvigorouslyopposed on thenewfarmlandthatdamwaters to onemillionsettlers, white andAfrican, in theregion. Planswere made toplaceup ofit asastatement itspermanentpresence governmentwith thePortuguese intending struction of politicised, thedamwashighly agreeing tobuymostof theenergy. Con- withSouthAfrica powerstation, hydroelectric The scheme waslater enlarged toincludea storage toirrigatedownstream. plantations as ameansof floodcontrolandforwater during thecolonialera,whenitwasproposed haditsbeginnings Bassa deCahora Barragem History and isrenowned foritstiger fish. It’s alsoawonderfuldestinationforanglers, makes agooddayorovernight tripfromTete. a magnificentgorge and inthemountains attheheadofwas completed in1974,isset largest damintheworld.Thedam,which thefifth- of Bassa, Songoismassive Cahora About 150kmnorthwestof Tete nearthetown & SONGO BARRAGEM DECAHORABASSA Yet, three decades after itsconstruction, Ultimately thecontractswere signedand, The management atMotel Tete canhelp CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE •• Barragem de Cahora Bassa&Songo CENTRALMOZAMBIQUE••BarragemdeCahora anyone wanting anescape tonature –will US$19-25, with air-conUS$23-30; [email protected]; campingperpersonUS$11,chalets per person O Teles (mealsUS$5toUS$10). Breakfast costsextra. Alsohere isRestaurante inlargewater –set manicured green grounds. dow screens andprivate bathroomswith hot twinbedded rooms–allwithfridge, win- the towncentre hascleanandcomfortable 82508; r/steUS$30/36; SocialdoHCB Centro Sleeping &Eating the locals topointyoutowardstheHCB office in enter Songo. Ifyou’re already inSongo,ask visit, andpermitsare nolonger to necessary you organise things.There’s nocharge fora Públicas (PublicRelations),which willhelp .co.mz) hora Bassa of theoffices tour, contact sive underground turbinerooms.Toarrange a The damcanbevisited, includingtheimpres- Information a chance of reaching itspotential. to Mozambique, perhaps thedamfinallyhas a turnover of majority controlfromPortugal brown. Now,withthelate 2005agreement for to soilerosionandturnthewaters muddy overgrazing andpoorfarmingpracticeslead inviatheLuangwaRiver,is brought where anotherimpediment.Mostofhas been it Mozambique, SouthAfricaandPortugal.Silt by contractualandpricingdisputes between pleted, powersuppliesremained grounded in the1980s.Even after repairs were com- destruction of powerlinesbyRenamo rebels Ugezi Tiger Lodge
in thelate 1850s. to findadirect route Zambezi throughRio DavidLivingstone’sattemptwhich blocked covers Bassa rapids, thethunderingCahora nate theentire region. Enroute, itpartially megawatts ofenergy –enoughtoillumi- the potential togenerate more than3500 rivers ontheZambianborder,andhas confluence oftheZambeziandLuangwa dam, stretches for270kmwestwardstothe created Bassa,thelake Lago Cahora bythe LAGO CAHORABASSA ‘substação’ inSongotownandaskforRelações
(HCB; % (substation). 252-82157, 252-82221/4;rp.sng@hcb s
( ( % % ) This pleasant placein Thispleasant 82-599 8410, fax 252-82049; 82-599 8410,fax252-82049; 252-82215, 252-82454,252- a Hidroeléctrica deCa- Hidroeléctrica ) Anglers – or
121 CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE US$3, bungalows perpersonUS$10) oversized village. abandoned andtoday itislittlemore thanan allbut the mid-19thcentury, Zumbohadbeen werefoundation anddrought all factors. By trade patterns, thetown’sfragileeconomic fromTete,ney alongtheZambezi shifting overlandbegan todecline. Thedifficult jour- was shortlived, andby1765, Zumbo’swealth Thisboom tradinghouses. ous Portuguese ropean citiesinSouthernAfrica,with numer- century wasoneof themostprosperous Eu- grewsettlement rapidlyandbythemid-18th The River atitsconfluencewiththeZambezi. trading fairattheeastern edge of theLuangwa agold established 1715, whenthePortuguese Remote Zumbo’s historydates backtoatleast ZUMBO p186. see daily. Formore ongetting to/fromMalawi, herego between andTete (US$2,twohours) numerous moneychangers. vehicles Several Malawi. There are afew basic Teteborder townbetween province and Zóbuè, 115kmnortheastof Tete, isthemain ZÓBUÈ pick-ups fromTete. either walkorhitch. Ugezi Tiger Lodge does 7km downtothedam,which you’llhave to office) building.OnceinSongo,it’sanother departing Tete fromtheold Tete andSongo(US$4,three tofourhours), availability.seat oraskattheairfieldabout dation fordetails Tete andSongo;check withlisted accommo- There are frequent charter between flights &Away There Getting superb grilledfish. restaurant (mealsfromabout US$11)serves Songo townand6kmbeyondthedam.The up towardsthedam.It’sabout14kmfrom available forfishingcharters andforlake tours (there’s nobeachfront) isbeautiful.Boatsare scenery onthelake of atthebase theproperty bathroom. It’sallvery no-frills butthemorning etated hillside,somewithair-con andprivate accommodation inchalets veg- onthedensely a choice of camping(tent rental possible), or There’s Bassa. hill overlooking Cahora Lago love thisrusticfishing campperched ona 122 Chapas run several times daily between timesdailybetween Chapas runseveral Near Zumbo is CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••Zóbuè Tchuma Tchato , a community-based , acommunity-based (camping per person (camping per person
correios pensões (post , and good 4WD. withatransport, buttheroadispassable From FingoétoZumbo,there’s nopublic Songo andZumbo)viapublictransport. of thelake, andatthemidwaypointbetween you canreliably get asfarFingoé(north is viaZimbabwe. OntheMozambicanside, for more information. interested www.tgsafari.co.za contact inthese, ing campjustwestof Chinhanda).Ifyou’re or fromTete viaChinhanda(there’s afish- is viaMukumburaontheZimbabweborder, concessions thatalsocater toanglers. Access are hunting Bassa, several Cahora side of Lago .mz; Rua3deFevereiro) doTurismo Provincial or toarrange the abooking,contact bring drinkingwater orafilter. Formore details, arebeer sometimesavailable atthecamp,but best tobringfoodsupplieswithyou.Sodaand facilities andmealscanbearranged, it’s though are alsosomebasicbungalowswithshared about 5kmfromtheZimbabweborder. There opposite Zumboand bank of theRioZambezi revenue. Theyrunasmallcampsite here onthe other large animalsabound –andearnsome to poaching of localwildlife –elephantsand tobringahalt community hasorganised itself natural resources project inwhich thelocal the main roadtoQuelimane. rumbala (where there’s agood by asmallferry, US$2)andthenontoMor- or eastwardsover theShire River (bridged ally hassle-free bordercrossing intoMalawi, an unpaved butreasonable roadandagener- a localboat. or byaskingthe happen tobeflyingover inacharter flight, ifyou its hippos,which youcansometimessee Theriver here inSena. isknownfor Zambezi Pensão few basic directions hour. every roughly There are a ofand –because itsnarrowwidth–alternates take vehicles; tosunset, it’sopenfromsunrise river here. Thebridge converted has been to railway bridge (builtin1934)which spansthe knownforthe3.6kmDonaAna Mutarara, are thetwinvillagesthe Zambezi of and Sena About 250kmdownstream fromTete along SENA &MUTARARA Well southeastof Zumbo,onthesouthern From Mutarara, youcan continuenorthon From Mutarara, The easiestaccesstoZumbofromTete
São Francisco pensões inTete. pensão inbothtowns,including
( %
252-24225; dpturismo@teledata in Mutarara, andMira in Mutarara, www.lonelyplanet.com tohelpyouorganise pensão Direcção Direcção ) and the mainroad,isvery good butin itself, 32kmsouthof along Caia Catapu, accommodation worthyof the nameinCaia main north–southcrossing point.There’s no About 60kmfurtherdownstream is the Caia, CAIA www.lonelyplanet.com Reserve) which formerly wasknownfor its Reserve) coast isthe wattled crane,flamingo andpelican.Onthe home toawealth of water birds,including which delta, arewetlands of theRioZambezi April 1862. Livingstone, isburied.She diedhere on17 wife of themissionaryandexplorer David the townof connected withthesugarcompany. no infrastructure tospeakof otherthan that bique’s largest sugarprocessingmill.There is Mauritian ownership, andisnowMozam- rehabilitatedglect, thefactoryhasbeen under sugar factoryhere. After manyyears of ne- and Society of Africabuiltaplantation East Sugar late 19thcenturywhenthePortuguese datingbacktothe beside theRioZambezi, Marromeu isanoldsugar-growing centre MARROMEU take tohave off when thecaptains lunch. hour orsofrom7amto5pm,exceptatmidday person US$0.05) two ferries (pervehicle withdriver US$4,per by iscrossed 2010. Fornow,theriver atCaia which shouldbecompleted around Zambezi, far asAltoMolócuè. it’sinreasonable though bilitated, shapeas northwards,it’s beingreha-way. FromCaia village theentireGorongosa isgoodtarmac where M’phingweisabout2kmfurther. turnoff issignposted onthemainroad,from and aguidecanbearranged atthecamp.The ( forclimbingMonte Gorongosa as abase p112 ) longer exploration.M’phingwecanalsobeused ing forest isarewarding birdingarea andworth for anovernight enroute north,thesurround- mostpeoplejuststop and colddrinks.Although with steaks (US$6.50toUS$9) andothermeals vance notice(US$6.50)andthere’s arestaurant bathroom. Breakfast canbearranged withad- cabins sharing facilities,plusonewithitsown US$22/30) (www.dalmann.com; s/dcabinsUS$18/24,withbathroom South of Marromeu begintheextensive About 45kmupriver fromMarromeu is onabridgeWork hasstarted over the via fromInchopeThe road toCaia , withsixrusticbutspotlessdouble Reserva deMarromeu Reserva Chupanga
that run roughly every half every that runroughly CENTRALMOZAMBIQUE••Caia , where Mary Moffat, M’phingwe Camp (Marromeu
Catapu andexplore theareaCatapu fromthere. hard tofind –try de Endereçamento daCidade deQuelimane Municipal coversConselho Quelimane – in collaboration with thelocal tion Française ofThe excellentseries mapsdonebyCoopéra- Information cathedral, almostnooldbuildingsremain. long historyare and,apartfromthe evident slave-trading centre. Todayfew tracesof this point foragriculturalproducts,and amajor to theinterior. export Itwasalsoanimportant asthemainentryport silt, Quelimaneserved when theriver channel becameclogged with Untilthe19thcentury, to theRioZambezi. Bons Sinaisinthedayswhenthiswasstilllinked century andbuiltonthebanksof theRiodos datingtoatleastthe15th trading settlement onthesiteQuelimane stands of anoldArab History agreeable placetobreak yourtravels. pact sizeandenergetic atmosphere make itan waterfront, andthenearby the abandonedPortuguese Mozambican towns–withtheexceptionof lacking thearchitectural charm of some other and heartlandof theChuabopeople. While province populated Zambézia bique’s densely Bustling ofQuelimane isthecapital Mozam- QUELIMANE andCaia. both Inhamitanga planes. ChapasgodailytoMarromeu from There isan airstrip atMarromeu forcharter &Away There Getting US$16) the basic convention. the Ramsar ‘wetland of under international importance’ and birders –in2003,itwasproclaimedasa (there are huntingconcessionshere) several the area isof interest primarilytohunters plans are underwayforrestocking. Fornow, fraction of thatnumberremain, although front inQuelimanelonger term.based The or south,butmake goodgetaways ifyou’re stretchescan’t rivalthecoastal furthernorth at about 55,000in the1970s.Today,onlya –putbysomeestimatesvast herdsof buffalo Well outsidetownare several In Marromeu, there’s accommodationat isatitsbestsunset. . It’s better, however, to base yourself at yourself . It’sbetter, tobase however, Pensão Domino Gabinete de Endereçamento da da deEndereçamento Gabinete
( % mosque cathedral 23-640420; rabout beaches – nearthe
its com- Planta Planta river- 123 that
. It’s . It’s CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE games at the adjoining sports club. games attheadjoiningsports door,with viewsdownontolivelybasketball tiny cafénext whilewaiting,headtothe internetconnection; functioning 8am-7pmSat)Afew computers and asporadically Fri, 1stfl;perminUS$0.04; Lusaka, Farmácia Calêndula MEDICAL SERVICES RádioPaz Nova Cine Estúdio ACCESSINTERNET Municipalbuilding. in theConselho Cidade deQuelimane 124 nection; oppositetheCasadaCultura. nection; theory 8.30am-8pm)Quelimane’sonlyotherinternet con- h (Disused) (3km) To Airport Station 4 1 3 2 Stadium QUELIMANE Train 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pmSun) 20 CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••Quelimane Independência Nicoadala (35km);Mocuba (110km); Pebane(280km) Zambezia Travels...... TDM...... Nova RádioPaz...... daCidadedeQuelimane...... Farmácia Calêndula...... Cine Estúdio...... ATM...... Gabinete deEndereçamento B3 BIM Expresso...... INFORMATION
Praça da Rua Robert o Mugabe To BusStand(1km); (cnrAv &RuaAcordosde JosinaMachel AC (Av Paulo SamuelKankhomba;
Rua da Resistência
Manganhela Rua Zedequias Rua Rua Mateus S (
( Muthemba
% % 22 24-214912; 558Av JosinaMachel) 24-213393; Av JosinaMachel;
15 21 h Mondlane Eduardo Av
Rua 29 de Av 25 de Junho de 25 Av
7am-8pm Mon- Av 7 de Setembro de 7 Av Novembro 17
24 Rios dos Bons Sinais Bons dos Rios
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 12 Rua 3 Kankhomba Samuel Paulo Av C4 B4 B3 C3 B3 C3 C4 Cathedral de Março Mosque New 6 B
EATING esoQeiae...... B3 Pensão Quelimane...... O ReidosFrangos...... Esplanada ACoquinha...... Café Nícola...... Bar Refeba...... Pensão Ideal...... Hotel Zambeze...... Hotel Rosy...... Hotel Flamingo...... Hotel Chuabo...... Hotel 1deJulho...... SLEEPING Av Marginal Av Old Cathedral 7
Av Josina Machel
25 h Magaia Samuel Filipe Av
14
4
Rua Ché Guevara Ché Rua Av 1 de Julho de 1 Av in 10
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2 Trabalhadores dos Rua Travessa Praça dosHeróis
Moçambicanos Av Samora Machel Samora Av 16 Hotel Chuabo andjustoffAv Samora Machel. Mozambique. It’sonasmallsidestreet diagonally opposite climbing MonteNamúli, andanythingelseincentral forarranging visitstoGurúè, Save,andthebestcontact Rio ofthe run travelagencyspecialising inMozambiquenorth Arecommended Swiss-Mozambican Rua KwameNkrumah) Zambezia Travels TRAVEL AGENCIES TDM TELEPHONE BIM Expresso Samora Machel) ATM MONEY Near HotelChuabo. Rua Kwame 23 Nkrumah
11 Av Heróis da
8 (cnrAvs &Filipe SamoraMachel SamuelMagaia) Liberdade Nacional (Hospital Provincial, cnr Rua Acordos de Lusaka &Av(Hospital Provincial,cnrRuaAcordosdeLusaka 5 Rua Patrice
Lumumba 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9
Rua Acordos de Lusaka C3 C3 B4 C4 B3 C3 B3 C4 B4 B4 19
(Av JosinaMachel) 13 Jetty Provincial 3 1 Hospital TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Casa deCultura...... Bar Refeba...... (see16) Bar Aquário...... Supermercado Primavera...... Salão deChaRiviera...... (see9) Salão Águila...... Restaurante daEstação...... A...... B4 LAM......
Av Francisco Quelimane eBenfica Sporting de (
% Manyanga 18 24-216174; www.zambezia.ch; 24-216174; www.zambezia.ch; Av Julius Nyerere www.lonelyplanet.com 200m 0.1miles 0 0 Praia deZalala(30km); Capuzínio &Chapas To Cemetery(1km); Praia deMundimo toZalala(2km); (Madal) (35km) D 25 24 23 22 21 20 B3 A3 B3 C3 A4 and nobreakfast. atHotelquite 1deJulho), asgoodthose Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Mondlane; s/d/twUS$12/14/16,withbathroom&air-con small courtyard and bucket baths. Breakfast costsextra. andbucket small courtyard cleanrooms,ashinyfloorleadingoutto Reasonably continental breakfast. withmusty,stuffyroomssaggingbedsand its price, s/tw US$13/18,dwithbathroomUS$20)Idealonlyfor old cathedral,thisreasonable budget choice twUS$16,withbathroom&air-conUS$28) Magaia; 1deJulho Hotel BUDGET Sleeping www.lonelyplanet.com Nícola at about US$3,including meals starting Quelimane hasplenty of cafésthatoffer light Eating get anupdate before booking. soon undergo renovations andanupgrade,so over town.It’s rumoured thatthehotel will meals, waiters shirtsandviews instarched restaurant (mealsfrom US$6) hasreasonable many withviewsover theriver. Therooftop fridge andair-con,rooms comewithTV, and thewaryears.running throughout Thelarge anywhere in thecountrythatmanaged tostay Quelimane institution–oneof thefew hotels s/dUS$56/60; Samora Machel; fast isincludedintheprice. child US$2/US$3)andatinygym.Fullbreak- air-con, plusasmallpool(entryperadult/ quite decent rooms,allwithbathroomand has management daEstação, asRestaurante This niceandnewish place,underthesame & AvRua KwameNkrumah 1deJulho;s/dUS$50/60; Flamingo Hotel MIDRANGE Zambezi Hotel Pensão Ideal be arranged. fast isincludedintheprice,andmealscan marginally nicer,butwithfanonly.Break- floor have air-con, upstairs are whilethose ontheground quite decentrooms–those located nearthecentralmosque,thisplacehas s/dUS$24/28; & Paulo SamuelKankhomba; from US$18/22/24; meals available (breakfast costsextra). has no-frills rooms,allwithfanandsink, Hotel Chuabo Hotel Rosy Hotel Pensão Quelimane Other recommendations:
(Av 1de Julho) (
( % % (Rua Acordos de Lusaka; s/dUS$10/14) (RuaAcordosdeLusaka;
( (cnr Av &RuaFelipe SamoraMachel Samuel
% a
24-214969, 24-213825;cnrAvs 1deJulho 24-212731; Av Filipe SamuelMagaia; ( ; % Salão Águila 24-215602; [email protected]; cnr ) More no-frills rooms(not 24-213181/2; fax24-213812;Av
CENTRALMOZAMBIQUE••Quelimane ( % a 24-212359; Av Eduardo ) TheChuaboisa
(cnr Avs JosinaMachel a Centrally Centrally ) Nearthe as Café Café
) and about 100m past Cinema Benfica, this and about 100mpast CinemaBenfica, Nyerere; mealsfromUS$4; the less atmospheric but spiffier the lessatmosphericbutspiffier Hotel Rosy. ask at the Casa deCultura. ask atthe Casa orChuabo) performances (allinPortuguese on issues such as AIDS.Forinformationon social themes,orto carryoutciviceducation here are frequently todrawattention to used As elsewhere inthecountry, theatre pieces wen-yay, theChuabowordfor‘scorpion’). Falados and Xenhê (pronounced daZambézia, it’s often possible to watch their rehearsals. here,tional songanddancegroup,isbased and province’s excellenttradi- Namúli, Zambézia Kankhomba) isthe ing events The bestplacetofindoutabout upcom- Entertainment City Hall. Bar Aquário Popular bars include Drinking (Av 1deJulho) to placeanorder. you’re hungryor,better, stopbyinadvance soorderbefore service, nowned forspeedy good-value mealsandporch Italian seating. for expatsandaidworkers, withapizzaoven, isapopularhangout near thetrainstation sistência; mealsfromUS$5) other choices. grilled prawns,pluschicken andafew drink. Themenufeaturesan evening good dral, thisisapopularspotformealand looking thewaterfront neartheoldcathe- featuring localdishes. shelters, andaSundaylunch (US$6) buffet underafew large,outdoor seating thatched bézian cuisine. There’s alarge menuselection, is oneof thebestplacesto trylocalZam- with friesforUS$4. grilledchickens hastakeaway mane eBenfica (Av JosinaMachel) underneath Hotel 1deJulho. Riviera & EduardoMondlane) For self-catering, try For self-catering, Well-known localtheatre groupsinclude None of Quelimane’srestaurants are re- daEstação Restaurante Bar Refeba Esplanada ACoquinha (cnr Avs &Felipe SamoraMachel Samuel Magaia) , nearthenewcathedral.Montes , ablockdownfromandopposite
(Av 1deJulho)
(Av mealsfrom$2.50) Marginal; , opposite SportingdeQueli- nexttoCinemaÁguila;and Casa deCultura Casa h This spiffy restaurant Thisspiffy Bar Refeba Bar Refeba
(cnr Avs &Julius JosinaMachel inthegardensnear lunch &dinner)
Supermercado Primavera ( % 24-213730; RuadaRe- O Rei dosFrangos O Rei (Av Marginal)
(Av Paulo Samuel Salão deCha Opposite Over- and 125 ,
CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE 216333/93; Av 25deJunho) its runupanddownthecoast. via the bridge between Sena andMutarara. via thebridge Sena between ing, it’salso possibletocross furtherupriver at 5am(US$16.50, ninehours). Ifyou’re driv- show upearlyatthe busstand.) (Evenseat. with aticket, it’sagoodideato ticket theafternoon before of tobecertain a at about4.30am,forwhich youshould buya there’s busdeparting daily asmall(30-seater) the Malawi border atMilange. transport toNampulaviaAltoMolócuè, orto three hours), fromwhere youcanget onward hicles alsorundailytoMocuba(US$4,two ve- daily at4.30am(US$14,10hours). Several main road(US$1.50,45minutes). to/from Nicoadalaatthejunctionwith Eduardo Mondlane. Chapasrunfrequently isatthenorthernendofThe busstand Av BUS &CHAPA one of Quelimane’shandfulof private taxis. and you’llfindaliftoraskyourhotel tocall at theendof Av walking 25deJunho–start LAM Nampula andTeteto/from Maputo, Beira, on There are fourtofive flights timesweekly AIR &Away There Getting 126 The airportisabout 3km northwestof town Heading south, buses to Beira departdaily Heading toBeira south,buses hours), To Gurúè(US$9.60,sixtoseven To Nampula,aGrupoMecula busdeparts Just as much a part of Quelimane history as the Rio dos Bons Sinais is the old Portuguese dosBonsSinaisistheoldPortuguese ofQuelimanehistoryastheRio Just asmuchapart ZAMBEZI DONAS The governmentby thePortuguese inanattempt tosolidifycontrolover theMozambican hinterlands. states, andthe‘Zambezi By the18thcentury,some area ofPortugal. system. sawthings, As thePortuguese performance. Bythelate 19thcentury,manyofthe performance. women,Africanamong theprazeiros, resistance, ascarcityofPortuguese andpooreconomic and formedatypeoffeudal aristocracythatdominated theaffairsofregion. and power. rulingelite, Overtime,thesystem becamethebasisforriseofanAfro-Portuguese of thesystem, thearea encompassedby Salazar cametopowerinPortugal. system layinshambles. and totrade,wasresponsible formaintaininglawandorderwithinthe prazeiro on toherfemale offspring ofrulesanddutiesapplied:the marriedtowhite Allsorts Portuguese.
( % However, the While some CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••AroundQuelimane prazo 24-212801; Av 1deJulho) wasallowedtoemployAfricans, toraiseaprivate army(generallymadeupof slaves) holder prazos prazo (prazeiro) stopsinQuelimaneon were small,otherswere hundreds ofsquare inextent. kilometres At theheight system wasinherently torivalries unstableandultimately faileddueinpart Prazos donas . had to be a female Portuguese citizen hadtobeafemale whowouldthenpassthe Portuguese Air Corridor ’, asthe were finallyabolishedintheearly20thcenturywhenAntónio
( prazos % prazeiros prazos 24- prazos were land-holdingsgranted toprivate individuals wassaidtohave beengreater thantheentire were known,enjoyedpositionsofprominence da Zambézia. formerlyownedbyCompanhia plantations extensivelimane isscenic,through coconut villages). thedrive However outfromQue- asatoiletbylocal cleanliness (asit’sused fringing palms,andwater of questionable views,arowoflong andwide,withsunrise Zalala beachThe closest toQuelimaneis AROUND QUELIMANE for itsbirdlife. various hunting concessions, andisknown consistsof delta rounding theRio Zambezi plantations. on unmarked thecoconut tracksthrough limane. Fromthere it’sanother20kmorso road about15kmfromQue- from theZalala way. There’s anunmarked turnoff righthand a4WDandsomeone topointthe you’ll need road. ToPraiadeMundimo, on theZalala ( mission depart QuelimanefromtheCapuchin are nofacilities. Mundimo port, headforthedaytoquieter recommended. Ifyouhave yourowntrans- Due toincidentsof pettytheft, campingisn’t dust raginyears andamediocre restaurant. four-person bungalowsthathaven’t a seen US$32) were effectively asindependent functioning Capuzínio Chapas to Zalala (US$1.60,45minutes) Chapas toZalala Complexo Kass-Kass Much of thearea southof Quelimane sur- prazeiro istheonlyaccommodation,withbasic , about30kmnortheastof town.It’s (usuallycalledPraiadeMadal); there familieshademigrated andthe ), about1kmfromthecemetery Mahimba Hunting Camp Mahimba
( % www.lonelyplanet.com prazo 24-212302; bungalows area. prazo prazo (bookings (bookings
Praia de Praia de
and still-in-process Zimbabwean-run anglers and still-in-processZimbabwean-runanglers to Gilévillage andontoAltoLigonha,from About 280kmnortheastof Quelimaneis PEBANE of season. through www.tgsafari.co.za) www.lonelyplanet.com (4WD) viathe from Pebane headsnorthalongabush track main roadnorthwards.Anotheroption better togoviaOlingaMocubaandthe to Angoche andontoNampula. It’smuch get toMoma,fromwhere there are chapas public transportalongthisroute untilyou from there ontoMoma. There’s noregular which and isbridged onlybydugoutcanoe, coast continuesasfartheRioLigonha, Pebane northwards,theroadparalleling Olinga (Maganja) andMucubela. From transport orwitha4WD,viaNamacurra, planned. Advancebookingsrecommended. houses charters, more andseveral self-catering camp withafew doublechalets andfishingboat US$35) .macuacuane.com; perpersonself-catering Lodge Macucuane at pensive roomswithbucket baths andmeals Matirre, about4kmfromtown,andinex- (camping pertentUS$2) far fromalongbeach. There’s abasic a charming (albeitfaded)andquiettownnot destination duringcolonialtimes,andtoday Pebane –afishing portandpopularholiday About 5kmnorthof townonthebeach is Pensão Jamaima Pebane isreached inslowstages bypublic time to take public transport. time totake events. Noneoftheseplaceshave touristfacilities;you’llneed yourownvehicle orplentyof with theCasa deCultura administrator forinformationaboutupcoming orthelocaldistrict district, you’llfindmarimba(known locallyas district, to capture dancewiththemand thenreturn snakes, themalive tothebush. de Namarrói) oftheprovince, isknownforits rounding districts. Namarrói,inthenorth dancers snake Zambézia province’s richculture isbestdiscovered bygettingoutofQuelimaneandintothesur- CULTURE ZAMBÉZIA STYLE although puristsconsiderthetonequality ofthe marimbas are alsomadeusingdifferent materials andtechniques, giving themadistinctive tone, three several peopleatonce,often timeswithinthesamesong. switchingparts The Morrumbala by onepersonatatime,thelarge Morrumbala/Mutararamarimbasmaybeplayedbytwoor (marimba) orchestrasfoundinsouthern Mozambique, where eachinstrumentisusuallyplayed The best time to see local groups performing ison the The besttimetosee local groupsperforming ofQuelimane,isknownforitsdancers. Gilé, northeast In Morrumbalainsouthwestern Zambézia, andinborderingareas ofTete province’s Mutarara . After first performing aritualtoensure. After successandsafety, firstperforming theygointothebush
Reserva deGilé Reserva ( %
(r US$12) on the sand nearPonta onthesand in Zimbabwe011-611298;www CENTRALMOZAMBIQUE••Pebane caters tobirders out . (Gilé Reserve) (GiléReserve) , a rustic , arustic campsite varimba
timbila Mocuba’s market, you’llmaximise though Milange (US$6.50,fourhours) departingfrom Nampula. There are vehicles several dailyto to struction toAltoLigonha,andthentarmac junction, from thereNampevo undercon- butpotholedfromMocubato road istarmac from thenorthernendof themain street. The hours)port toNampula(US$11,eight leaves three hours) leaves fromthemarket. Trans- has basicroomsandmeals. r US$14;mealsfromUS$2) either. sidered sacred, andthere are nofacilitiesat uge bylocalpopulations.Bothspotsare con- caves duringthewarasaplaceof used ref- district are thelarge district, are some 40km north,nearMunhamadeinLugela Quelimane toNampulaorMalawi. About Mocuba isthejunctiontownfortravel from MOCUBA edge, butnootherfacilities. westernruins of anoldcamponthereserve’s decent populationsof large animals.There are it’srumouredconducted, though tostillhave Molócuè), and no recent surveys have Molócuè), andnorecent been surveys (the bestroadaccessisviaPebane orAlto other wildlife. It’srelatively inaccessiblenow and de Giléwashometoelephants,buffaloes Nampula. where tocontinueon it’sstraightforward or Transport toQuelimane(US$4,two Pensão Cruzeiro Prior to the war, the 2100 sq km Reserva Prior tothewar,2100sqkmReserva valimba) tobesuperior. dia dacidade players. theChopi Unlike (
% , onMocuba’smainstreet, hot springs 24-810184; Av EduardoMondlane; (city/townday).Check cavernas do Monte Mulide doMonte cavernas . AlsoinLugela (cobras timbila 127
, CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE rooms. above the falls.There are tobesome wild said Gurúè. Swimming ispossible inthepools offering beautifulviewsbackdowntowards Enroutebe toyourright. are detours several andforestplantations tothefalls,which will 1½ hours overgrown onfootthrough tea 45 minutes onfoot.FromUP4,it’sanother locals topointoutthewayandallow about tothenorth;ask inthedistance you cansee factory (alsoknownasChaSambique), which town. Toget here, headfirst totheUP4tea the ontheuphillsideatforks. staying minutes, followingtheedge of thehilland running infrontof it.Continueforfive to10 tre of Gurúèandheadnorthalongtheroad To get here, findthesmallchurch inthecen- the jacarandasonnorthernedge of town. iswithawalkthrough A goodplacetostart Sights &Activities telephone calls)at ternet access (plusdomesticandinternational hiking inthehills. hereit wouldbeeasytospendupaweek and ifyoudon’tmindforegoing thecomforts, The surroundingarea offers goodwalking a smallproportionhave rehabilitated. been sive holdingsdatingfromcolonialdays.Only crops,andtherethe mostimportant are exten- parts of thecountry.Tea oneof haslongbeen tions inoneof andrainiest thecoolest,highest amidstlush vegetationis set andtea planta- The charming andpicturesque townof Gurúè GURÚÈ chapa therest of theway. there ontoLioma,fromwhere youcanget a a rehabilitated roadtoMolumbo, andfrom sporadic publictransportnortheastalong usually isn’taproblem. ToGurúè,there’s kwacha. moneychangers canhelpwithMalawian Malawi border. BIMExpresso hasanATM; Milange isapeppytownabout 3km eastof the MILANGE airstrip totheMilange roadjunction. your chances of aliftbywalkingwestpastthe 128 Finding a lift between MilangeFinding aliftbetween andMocuba A populardestinationforlonger hikes is BIM Also see p186 . Pensão Lili cascata CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE •• Milange CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••Milange
(Av daRepública) ( waterfall) inthehillsnorthof
(r US$12) TDM hasanATM. There’s in- hasmealsandno-frills (per minUS$0.04) . rivers. Ifyoufindyourself inthearea with which flow theLicungo(Lugela) andMalema of Monte Namúli(MtNamúli,2419m),from east of Gurúèare themist-shrouded slopes Rising upfromthehillsabout 15kmnorth- Namúli Climbing Monte accommodate theaccompanyingentourage. ontheproperty,presumably to houses used sists of othersmaller asingleroom,withseveral con- itself Thehouse for watching thesunset. It’s wellpastitsprime,butmakes agoodspot of (hence itsname,‘House theNewlyweds’). dosNoivos Casa steam engine. their originalequipment,includinganold of thetea factories,which stillhave much of opposite the bank. Gulamo officeinthecentre of towndiagonally be able toarrange aliftouttoUP6withthe you don’thave yourownvehicle, youmay If Rafiq. the Quelimaneroad;askforSenhor kilometresbuildings several outof townoff at theirUP6warehouse, acomplexof white fromtheGulamocompany can beobtained permission tovisit.Thisisfreewill need and situated inthemiddleof you tea plantations, hills, aswellherdsof cattle. As thefallsare horses fromcolonialdaysinthesurrounding public transport. the lastvillage belowthesummit. There’s no about40kmfromGurúè byroadand Sede, slopestoMugunha further upthemountain’s there. Witha4WDit’salsopossible todrive vehicle, youcandrive tothefactory andpark kilometresseveral furthertoUP5.Witha road. Goleftafter about2kmandcontinue head southoutof GurúèalongtheQuelimane near UP5,anoldtea factory. Toreach here, both thespiritsandlocal toappease tobeused US$1.50 foreverything), market inGurúè(itshouldn’t costmore than mapira it’s easytoget lost. a guide,astheroute and isn’tstraightforward togowith advisable traditions. It’salsohighly thelocal is permitted, toobserve you’llneed by thelocalMakua people,sowhileclimbing isconsideredably fit.Themountain sacred climb, manageable byanyonewhoisreason- time tospare, itmakes agood,andvery scenic The climbbeginsabout 6kmoutsideGurúè out,buysome setting Before In thehillsabout 12km northeastof townis At UP6youcanalsoarrange totourone (sorghum flour),riceandsugaratthe – originally a honeymoon spot –originallyahoneymoonspot www.lonelyplanet.com régulo farinha de (chief). Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com forest, almostalpine, untilitendsinahigh, of andstands bambooand tea plantations unrehabilitatedlow thisasitwindsthrough narrow butobvioustrackbranching left.Fol- www.lonelyplanet.com the summit itself. After descendingthemoun- the summititself. have better viewsduringtheclimbthanfrom is often shroudedinclouds,soyou’lllikely point.Thetopof highest Namúli mountain’s gradually ascendsforanother1.5kmtothe outandthen near thesummit,pathevens yourhandstoclamberup.Once touse need some crumblingrockandplaceswhere you’ll with the spring,climbbecomessteeper, your guidetoshow youwhere itis.Justafter and itmaytake someconvincingtopersuade it’sconsideredbottle, although asacred spot lage isaspringwhere youcanrefill yourwater for theancestors. another shortceremony maybeperformed pany youtothetopof where themountain, The chief willthen assignsomeonetoaccom- theancestors whoinhabitthearea.to appease andscatterbeer theremainder ontheground gift, whomaysave sometomake traditional Gurúè shouldbepresented tothechief asa here. in Thesorghum flourthatyoubought toarrangewith a4WD,you’llneed toleave it local language, Makua. Ifyou’ve comethisfar orthe with youwhoknowseitherPortuguese bringsomeonealong don’t speakPortuguese, Ifyou permission toclimbthemountain. outthechief andrequestyou shouldseek the edge where of thisvalleyisMugunhaSede, Namúli. Theviewsenroute are superb.On valley about 800mbelow thesummitof Monte Shortly before reaching a UP5you’llsee About two-thirdsof thewayfromvil- modern times. resulting Makuagroupingsof inthedistinct on Namúli)intopresent-day Zambézia, thus Licungo (whichalsohasitssourcethe Rio others madetheirwaysouthwardsalong intoNampulaprovince, whilenorthwards Malema fromitssourceonthemountain into several groups. Somefollowed theRio ing inthearea aroundthemountain– split tradition, theMakuaancestors–allonce liv- Namúli asacommonhome. Accordingto Mozambique, mostMakuaconsiderMonte out large areas ofcentralandnorthern Although widelyscattered todaythrough- THE MAKUA CENTRALMOZAMBIQUE••Gurúè was once Gurúè’s best option, though it’snow was once Gurúè’sbestoption, though the main street near Pensão Monte Verde, this Pensão Gurúè Sleeping &Eating Residencial Likungo. Pensãoin Gurúèthrough Monte Verde and Travels ( Zambézia mane through p124 ), or summit. Guidescanbearranged in Queli- want anextraincentive to continueuptothe Also, ifit’sraining,theguidewill definitely preparedtions). Be forfrequent rainandcold. often dramaticallychanging weathercondi- ofa goodideaanywaybecause rapidlyand ing onthesummitisn’tpermitted (andisn’t warehouse andabeautiful waterfall. Camp- a longer detourroute possibleviatheUP4 day. Ifyouhave anextradayavailable, there’s andthirdstages intoonelong the second it’spossibletocombine good fitnesslevels, and next daytoGurúè.Withanearlystart andreturning the again inMugunhaSede to thesummitandback,spendingnight day,headup Thesecond tion inalocalhouse. a spottocamporarrange basicaccommoda- from Gurúè),where the hours toeight (aboutseven as MugunhaSede allow three days,walkingthefirst dayasfar butdecentcondition. is inrough rehabilitated hasbeen and to MugunhaSede three hours onfoottothesummit.Theroad fromwhere it’saboutfar asMugunhaSede, Gurúè ifyouget anddrive anearlystart as It’s possibletodotheclimbinalongdayfrom OVERNIGHT OPTIONS Gurúè market tothechief asthanks. atthe present thericethatyoubought tain, To dotheentire climbonfootfromGurúè, house nearthatofhismother-in-law. is thatafter marriage,thegroomsetsuphis tion stemming fromthematrilinealculture able toprove Another tradi- hecanwork. to buildingahouse–sothatthemanis required –anythingfromrepairing afence isoftenment, anexchangeofservices bride priceordowry)tosealanengage- the traditionalexchangeofgifts ( people wholive aroundGurúè.Instead of a tipfromthematrilinealLomwe-Makua Women contemplating marriagecouldtake MAKUA MARRIAGE CUSTOMS (
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129 On On CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE MOZAMBIQUE CENTRAL CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE at thehotels, there are inexpensive plates of on themainstreet nearBIM. there’s arestaurant (breakfast included).It’s with theirownbathroomandhotwater, and the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake vehiclesseveral dailyto Mocuba(US$5,3½ from nearthemarket. there Otherwise are hours) departingaboutsix toseven 4.30am There’s adaily chapa toQuelimane(US$9.60, &Away There Getting try down fromPensão Gurúè.Forself-catering, rice andbeansatthemarket andabakery just s/d US$20/30) Quelimane ( p125 ). SalãodeChaRiveierainformation through in Namúli. Youcanalsomake bookingsand get town centre nearEscolaPrimáriadosMonte price andmealscanbearranged. It’sinthe shared bathroom.Breakfast isincludedinthe five cleanroomsinalarge allwith house, tembro; d&twfromUS$16) restaurant.ing facilities)andastruggling run down.There are basic rooms(mostshar- 130 © LonelyPlanetPublications For food,otherthanwhatyoucanarrange Pensão Monte Verde Pensão Monte Residencial Likungo Residencial Aquíl Comercial CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE••AltoMolócuè Roomshere are quite reasonable,
(Av daRepública) (
( % % Adecentplace,with 24-910245; Av daRepública; 82-442 0290;Av 25deSe- nearBIM. and Mocuba(US$4,fourhours). go dailyto/fromNampula(US$4,3½hours) the mainsquare hascleandoubles.Vehicles MocubaandNampula.tween This agreeable townisarefuelling pointbe- MOLÓCUÈ ALTO lic transportisviaMocuba. a passingbusortruckontoNampula. junction,get outthereNampevo andwaitfor take anyMocubaorQuelimanetransportto (nolaterearly enough than5am),youcan takes thetrain(see p145 ). Ifyouleave Gurúè there’s asalmosteveryone though littletraffic, Cuamba canalsobereached viaadecentroad, wait forthetraintoNampula(orCuamba). there’srun whenever atrainconnection–and Alternatively, catch achapa toMutuali–they where there isfrequent onward transport. toAltoMolócuè,from daily inthedryseason the EN104isgoodtarmac. junctionwith Gurúè southtotheNampevo transport toQuelimane. Theroadfrom to fourhours), where youcanget onward Pensão SantoAntónio The fastest waytoget toMilange withpub- For Nampula,there’s atleastonevehicle Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com (d US$16;mealsfromUS$3)
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