Hawai`I´S National Parks

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COMPLIMENTARY $2.95 2017/2018 YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE PARKS HAWAI`I´S NATIONAL PARKS

ACTIVITIES • SIGHTSEEING • DINING • LODGING TRAILS • HISTORY • MAPS • MORE

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Aloha! Welcome to Hawai‘i, home to sev- NPS eral National Park Service sites, including Zion National Park Hawai‘i Volcanoes and Haleakalā National is the result of erosion, Parks and the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial at sedimentary uplift, and Pearl Harbor, which is part of the World War II Valor in the Pacific National Monument. Stephanie Shinmachi. 8 ⅞ According to Hawaiian legends, Hawai‘i Volcanoes is the home of Pele honua mea, a creative force with many forms. Her first home was on one of the smaller is- 8 ⅜ lands, Ni‘ihau, but the goddess of the sea chased her from island to island, destroy- ing each dwelling that Pele created. Pele 7 ⅜ finally found a haven in Halema‘uma‘u, in Kīlauea Caldera, where she resides today. 5 ⅞ A legend of Haleakalā tells of how Māui, a Polynesian demigod, snared the sun because it was moving too quickly across 5 ⅜ the sky. Māui climbed Haleakalā and las- soed the sun’s rays, making it promise to 4 ¾ move more slowly. At sunset, the ropes still attached to the sun’s rays can be seen National parks in Hawai’I protect many unique stretching from the land to the sky. plant species. AD Hawai‘i National Park was established in 1916 and included land on both Māui and preserve America’s parklands for future the island of Hawai‘i. In 1961, it was divided generations. into two separate parks: Hawai‘i Volcanoes The NPS, Hawai‘i Pacific Parks Associa- National Park and Haleakalā National tion, Friends of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. Both were created to preserve the Park, Friends of Haleakalā National Park region’s unique volcanic features, early hu- and concessioner Hawai‘i Volcanoes Lodge man history, and plant and animal life that Company work together to make your visit a is part of this special bio-region. memorable one. The World War II Valor in the Pacific This American Park Network guide to National Monument preserves and shares Hawai‘i’s National Parks is provided to en- the stories of the Pacific War, including the hance your enjoyment and appreciation events at Pearl Harbor. of these special places. It has been made The National Park Service (NPS) is re- possible by the support of the spon- sponsible for the protection of these great sors whose messages appear inside. En- resources and their visitors. For nearly Join the community at joy your visit to the National Parks of nationalparks.org a century, the NPS has endeavored to Hawai‘i! 2 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARK |

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Welcome 2 What’s New! 6 American Park Network® publishes OhRanger.com, Oh, Ranger! ParkFinder™ and Park Regulations & Safety 8 Oh, Ranger!® guides —a collection of visitor guides for public lands all across America. American Park Network is an official partner of Who’s Who at the Park 11 the National Forest Foundation, National Parks Conservation Association, National Fish and Hawai’i Volcanoes Plan Your Visit 12 Wildlife Foundation, American Hiking Society and the Student Conservation Association. Hawai’i Volcanoes Sights To See 18

Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Hawai’i Volcanoes Things To Do 21 MARK J. SAFERSTEIN Hawai’i Volcanoes History 23 Associate Publisher & Executive Editor Joel S. Saferstein Savings can take you to sights. Hawai’i Volcanoes Lodging & Dining 27 Group Sales & Partnerships Director Savings can take you to amazing sights. Alex Frenkel Centerfold Map EDITORIAL / PRODUCTION amazing Hawai’i Volcanoes Walking & Hiking 30 Managing Editor: Kate Morgan Editors: Nell Alk, Monette A. Bailey, Scott Deckman, Cinnamon Janzer, Julie McCool, Hawai’i Volcanoes Camping 33 Renee Sklarew, Andy M. Smith Proofreader: Shannon Kronstadt Haleakala- Plan Your Visit 34 Graphic Designers: Mario Arce, Dennisse Cruz, Mike Dion, Yamileth Recinos, Tatiana Hurtado Haleakala- Sights To See 36 DIGITAL Technology Managers: Scott Falconer, Josh Eckstein Haleakala- Things To Do 38

ADVERTISING SALES & MARKETING Haleakala- History 39 (212) 581-3380 AD [email protected] Haleakala- Walking & Hiking 40 Business Development: Sharon Burson, Randy Burton, Mary Pat Kaleth, Pat Keane, - Craig King, Kristi Rummel Haleakala Camping 42 Operations Manager: Matthew Price Preservation 44 American Park Network 41 East 11th Street, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10003 Nature & Wildlife 46 @OhRanger Pearl Harbor 49 ©2017 APN MEDIA, LLC · All Rights Reserved Photography 52 Oh, Ranger! and American Park Network are registered trademarks of APN Media, LLC. Just for Kids 54

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PEFC/29-31-75 www.pefc.org geico.com | 1-877-434-2678 | Local Oce (Cover: Glowing stars and lava at Hawai’i The publisher of this guide and the advertisers herein are not geico.com | 1-877-434-2678 | Local Oce affiliated with, or endorsed by, the National Park Service. Volcanoes National Park by Eachat/iStock.) FOR MORE INFORMATION Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and features are not available in all states or all GEICO companies. Distribution requests GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, D.C. 20076; [email protected] GET THE APP! Some discounts, coverages, paymenta Berkshire plans Hathaway and features Inc. subsidiary. are not available © 2017 in GEICO all states or all GEICO companies. Oh, Ranger! Wi-Fi™ installation/sponsorship IT’S FREE! DOWNLOAD NOW GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, D.C. 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. © 2017 GEICO [email protected] WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK WHAT’S NEW

There is nothing so American as our national parks. – Franklin Delano Roosevelt ®

Access to parks is one of the things that’s truly great about life in America. Not just national parks, like FDR stated, but all parks. Parks afford everyone, regardless of race, in- Mark, Joel & Alex – Support parks, stay healthy! come, social status or age, the opportunity to Take a deep breath in a park and you’ll im- escape the concrete jungle and step into the mediately know the value of greenspace. wild. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a small step Health & Wellness Studies show a high into a local park or a giant leap into the back- correlation between time spent in parks and country. The effect is the same. Time in nature improved health (and, in my view, happiness). feels good. Other values that parks bring may You move more when you’re outside, which be less obvious. Since we take care of the decreases stress, makes you more fit and re- things we value, I’d like to highlight a few other duces the risk of many health issues, such as benefits we all receive from public lands: diabetes, high blood pressure and heart dis- Economic Impact America’s federal, state ease. Exercise (which parks inspire) also posi- and local parks and public lands generate $200 tively impacts your cholesterol levels. A few billion in annual economic activity and support years ago, I started bicycling to work every day. more than one million jobs! You might help a A year later, my overall cholesterol went down dozen businesses during a weekend hiking trip. while my HDL—the “good” cholesterol—went Imagine the impact of a week-long national park up. The results of a small change in your exer- AD adventure. Parks raise property values, too! cise routine can be amazing! Parks invite this Conservation Trees produce the oxygen change. we need to survive, but did you know that they The value of parks is undeniable, so follow also help save money? It’s estimated that trees FDR’s lead and support our public lands. It’s in cities save $400 billion in costs to retain the all-American thing to do. (Congress, take stormwater. A single tree can store 100 gallons note!) You’ll save the country money while or more, which helps keep streets from flood- improving our nation’s health—and your own, ing and reduces the need for artificial storage too. Not a bad combination! facilities. A tree can also absorb as much as three tons of carbon gas during its lifetime. [email protected] Five national parks GET CONNECTED AT YOUR FAVORITE PARKS! One iconic American road trip VisitUtah.com/itineraries Parks are about enjoying nature, but what if you want to share a great picture or are awaiting an important email? If you’re looking to add connectivity to your park, or if you already have Wi-Fi and would like help adding content or generating sponsor revenues, please let us know at [email protected]. ®

6 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS |

159 W. BROADWAY STE 200 TEL 801 531 0122 SALT LAKE CITY UTAH 84101 FAX 801 531 0123

Client: UOT Publication: American Park Network Magazine Job #: 16-UOT-1731 Road To Mighty Issue: Due to Vendor 4/7 File: 16-UOT-1731 RTM_Brothers_AmericanPark_170407.pdf Bleed: 5.875” w x 8.875” h File Created: 03/27/2017 Trim: 5.375” w x 8.375” h Agency Contact: Robyn Reynolds Live: 4.75” w x 7.375” h Phone: 801-531-0122 Colors: 4C Email: [email protected] WHO’S WHOPARK AT THE PARK REGULATIONS & SAFETY

The following safety tips and regulations are intended to enhance your enjoyment of Hawai‘i Volcanoes and Haleakala national parks. These guidelines are designed to protect the park and you, its visitor. Ki’i Pa’i Makuahine

PARK REGULATIONS

Take the time to read the park regulations and guidelines available at visitor centers. Here are a few key points: The endangered nēnē, or Hawaiian goose, is • All overnight hiking trips in Hawai’i the state bird of Hawai’i. Volcanoes and Haleakala require backcountry permits. Camping and cabin ural and cultural resources, and provide permits are available up to one day in a quality visitor experience at the summit advance at the Headquarters Visitor during sunrise hours (3am to 7am). The Center, from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. or at Kipa- cost is $1.50 per car. hulu Visitor Center from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 • The one-day, non-transferable sunrise p.m. Permits for Hawai’i Volcanoes can reservation will not be sold at the park. be obtained at the Backcountry Office It is only available online, up to 60 days AD at the Visitor Emergency Operations ahead of a planned sunrise visit. To enter Center at Hawai‘i Volcanoes between the Summit District between 3 a.m. and 8 a.m. and 4 p.m., no sooner than the 7 a.m., the reservation holder must be day before your hike. There is no charge present and show both the one-day sun- for permits; they are available on a first- rise reservation receipt (for that day) and come, first-served basis. For further in- a photo ID. The park entrance fee is sep- formation about Hawai‘i Volcanoes, call arate and payable by credit card or park (808) 985‑6000 or visit nps.gov/havo. For pass on the day of visit. The entrance fee more information about Haleakala, call is good for three days, with receipt. (808) 572‑4400 or visit nps.gov/hale. • Please stay on trail to avoid harming the • Visitors in personal or rental vehicles fragile roots of endangered plants. Pre-Collision1 with Pedestrian 2 wishing to view sunrise at Haleakalā • Please do not vandalize, deface, damage Detection standard. National Park will need to make sunrise or remove any park features including Pedestrians can come out of nowhere. So Pre-Collision with Pedestrian Detection can help spot them and brake viewing reservations ahead of time at plants, animals, archeological materials 3 for you. It’s just one of the standard Toyota Safety Sense™ P (TSS-P) features that give you more peace of mind. recreation.gov. The online reservation or lava; they are protected by law. system has been implemented to ensure • . Options shown. Dramatization. 1. The TSS Pre-Collision System is designed to help avoid or reduce the crash speed and damage in certain frontal collisions only. It is not a substitute for safe and attentive driving. System effectiveness is Archaeological features are fragile dependent on road, weather and vehicle conditions. See Owner’s Manual for additional limitations and details. 2. The Pedestrian Detection system is designed to detect a pedestrian ahead of the vehicle, determine if impact is imminent and help reduce impact speed. It is not a substitute for safe and attentive driving. System effectiveness depends on many factors, such as speed, size and position of pedestrians, and weather, light and road conditions. See Owner’s visitor and employee safety, protect nat- Climbing on or removing rocks from any Manual for additional limitations and details. 3. Drivers are responsible for their own safe driving. Always pay attention to your surroundings and drive safely. Depending on the conditions of roads, weather and the vehicle, the system(s) may not work as intended. See Owner’s Manual for additional limitations and details. ©2017 Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. 8 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS |

S A ATCHI & S A ATCHI LOS ANGELES • 3501 SEPULVEDA BLVD . • TORRANCE, CA • 90505 • 310 - 214 - 6000 SIZE: Bleed: 5-7/8" x 8-7/8" Trim: 5-3/8" x 8-3/8" Live: 4-3/4" x 7-3/8" Mechanical is 100% of final BY DATE W/C DATE BY DATE W/C DATE No. of Colors: 4C Type prints: Gutter: LS: Output is 100% of final Project Manager Diversity Review Panel Print Producer Assist. Account Executive CLIENT: TMS Advertising EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTORS: F. Costa Studio Manager Account Executive JOB TITLE: MY17 Prius Print — Cellphone CREATIVE DIRECTOR: R. Braga Production Director Account Supervisor PRODUCT CODE: 120311- PRI ASSC. CREATIVE DIRECTORS: Art Buyer Management Director AD UNIT: 4CPB COPYWRITER: D. Sorgan Proofreading CLIENT Art Director TRACKING NO: 04652 PE ART DIRECTOR: L. Borges Ad Mgr./Administrator •Chief Creative Officer PRODUCTION DATE: March 2017 PRINT PRODUCER: R. Dallas-Noble Ph: 310.214.6233 National Ad Mgr. •Exec. Creative Director MECHANICAL NUMBER: ______STUDIO ARTIST: V. Lee Ph: 310.214.6224 VOG •Creative Director SHOT NO: PRS_MY17_0174_V001 •Assc. Creative Director Corp. Mgr., Mkt. Comm. V.P. Marketing Copywriter •Assc. Creative Director Legal/Product PROOF NUMBER ––––––––––––– SPECIAL INFO: Bill to B1194-006516-00 Product TMS Diversity Binder

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archeological feature is prohibited. Natu- roadsides and parking lots where they WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK ral features such as crater walls are un- are more likely to be killed. stable and rock climbing is not allowed. • Firearms regulations vary by park. It takes dedication and hard work to interpretation, education and research Check with the National Park Service or keep Hawai‘i Volcanoes and Haleakalā na- programs, in addition to operating the the park you plan to visit before your trip tional parks in operation. The flora, fauna park bookstore at Pearl Harbor. For more for most up-to-date information. SAFETY TIPS and unique features of the land must be information, call (808) 954‑8759; or visit • Fireworks are not allowed in either park. preserved and protected for future genera- pacifichistoricparks.org. • Although it rains frequently in these parks, The seacoast has strong winds, high tions. Many organizations and volunteers wildfires can occur year-round and are a waves and dangerous, unpredictable surf. are responsible for its stewardship. THE FRIENDS OF HAWAI‘I serious threat to native vegetation. Fires Sea cliffs and coastal lava flows can be VOLCANOES NATIONAL are not permitted except in the pavilion treacherous. A number of trails run along NATIONAL PARK PARK (FHVNP) located at Kipukapuaulu in Hawai‘i Volca- cliff edges, so watch your step and your SERVICE (NPS) The FHVNP is a nonprofit organization that noes or the NPS-provided grills at Hos- children. Always take ample drinking water. The NPS is the federal custodian of promotes the restoration and appreciation of mer Grove and Kipahulu campgrounds Volcanoes present a whole new class of Hawai‘i Volcanoes and Haleakalā national park resources. They provide educational op- in Haleakalā. Do not smoke while hiking. hazards to park visitors, so be aware and parks. As an agency of the U.S. Depart- portunities and support park programs that Park only in designated pullouts to avoid take the time to orient yourself at Hawai‘i ment of the Interior, the NPS has the re- enrich visitor experiences. To become a friend, fires caused by car exhaust systems. Volcanoes National Park. Stay on trails. sponsibility of preserving and protecting call (808) 985-7373; or visit fhvnp.org. Heed posted fire danger warnings. Re- The surface of Kilauea is laced with deep the environmental and cultural values of port all fires by dialing 911. cracks, many of which are hidden by vege- our national parks, protecting the wildlife HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES • For visitor safety and protection of the tation. Recent lava flows are shell-like, and therein, and providing for public use and LODGE COMPANY park’s fragile resources, bicycles are hidden voids can collapse easily. Fumes enjoyment of the parks. For more informa- Hawai‘i Volcanoes Lodge Company, allowed only on paved roads and not on from volcanoes can compound respira- tion about Hawai‘i Volcanoes, call (808) a partnership between Ortega Family cross-country terrain. Check with rang- tory or heart problems and are considered 985-6000; or visit nps.gov/havo. For more Enterprises and Aqua Resorts, is the park ers for information about designated hazardous to infants and pregnant women. information about Haleakalā, call (808) 572- concessioner and provides food, lodging, bike roads and trails. Heed the warning signs. During an erup- 4400; or visit nps.gov/hale. cabins, gifts, sundries and other visitor ser- • Pets must be leashed at all times. They tion, avoid the hydrochloric acid mist cre- vices. They operates Volcano House Hotel are allowed on leash at Namakanipaio, ated when hot lava meets ocean water. See HAWAI‘I PACIFIC PARKS and gift shops, the cabins at Nāmakanipaio Kipahulu and Hosmer Grove camp- a park ranger for current eruption safety in- ASSOCIATION campground, The Rim Restaurant, Un- grounds. Pets are prohibited on Hilina formation and follow instructions on warn- Hawai‘i Pacific Parks Association is a cle George’s Lounge, and the End of the Pali Road, at Kulanaokuaiki Camp- ing signs and handouts. nonprofit partner of six national parks in Road gift shop. For more information, call ground, and on all trails and backcountry Haleakala has variable weather. Be pre- Hawai‘i and American Samoa. Proceeds (808) 441‑7750 or (866) 536‑7972, or visit ha- areas in both parks. pared for dramatic changes. It can be at from membership programs, park stores waiivolcanohouse.com. • Park roads are for leisurely driving only. least 20 degrees colder at the summit than and web sales support interpretation, edu- The maximum speed limit in Hawaii at sea level. Altitude can be an issue— cational programs, research projects, pub- FRIENDS OF HALEAKALĀ Volcanoes is 55 mph on Route 11; else- visitors with heart or respiratory conditions lications and cultural activities. For more NATIONAL PARK, INC. where, slower speeds are posted. The should check with a physician before vis- information, call (808) 985-6051 or visit This nonprofit organization assists the maximum speed in Haleakala is 30 mph. iting the park. Avoid altitude sickness by hawaiipacificparks.org. park by encouraging volunteers to par- • Park regulations prohibit the disturbance drinking lots of water. Sunscreen and sun- ticipate in park projects, providing financial of wildlife in the park. Slow down and glasses are also recommended due to very PACIFIC HISTORIC PARKS assistance, and implementing programs use caution when approaching nene high UV levels. Finally, be aware of flash Pacific Historic Parks is the nonprofit and activities to increase park awareness. (Hawaiian geese) crossing signs. Please floods, as well as leptospyrosis and other partner of the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial at For more information, call (808) 876-1673; do not feed nene; this attracts them to pathogens that exist in Hawaiian streams. Pearl Harbor. The organization supports or visit fhnp.org.

10 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 11 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK HAWAI´I VOLCANOES PLAN YOUR VISIT HAWAI´I VOLCANOES PLAN YOUR VISIT items and picnic supplies are available from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Please call (808) at Volcano House and in Volcano Vil- 985-6000 for more information. lage. When conditions permit, these Museum visitors can view ongoing Established in 1916, Hawai’i Volcanoes non-commercial vehicle to the park. items are also sold at the End of the videos of volcanic eruptions, geologic National Park is home to two active volca- You can obtain the pass by visiting Road gift shop, located at the end of displays and working seismic equipment noes, the Kīlauea and Mauna Loa. everykidinapark.gov and you must print Chain of Craters Road. Buy a reusable relating to the adjacent Hawaiian Volcano it and present it at the park. The Every bottle and fill up before you go! Observatory (not open to the public). PARK ENTRANCE Kid in a Park pass is valid until August 31, There are also spectacular overlooks into Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park is lo- 2017. VISITOR CENTER AND MUSEUM Halema‘uma‘u Crater and Kīlauea Cal- cated 30 miles (48 km) southwest of Hilo Kīlauea Visitor Center is located dera near the museum. Parking and rest- and 95 miles (153 km) southeast of Kailua- GENERAL INFORMATION 0.25 mile from the park entrance. It is open rooms are available. Kona on the island of Hawai‘i. The park is open 24 hours every day from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Please call (808) At both locations, the Hawai‘i Pacific There is only one entrance, which is of the year, including holidays. For gen- 985-6000 for more information. Parks Association operates bookstores located off Highway 11, south of Hilo and eral park information, call (808) 985- The visitor center features the 20-min- that sell maps, books, posters and vid- east of Kailua-Kona. 6000, visit nps.gov/havo, or stop by the ute park movie, Born of Fire, Born of the eos. For more information call (808) 985- Kīlauea Visitor Center or Jaggar Mu- Sea, shown hourly, displaying volcano 6051 or visit hawaiipacificparks.org. ENTRANCE FEES seum on Crater Rim Drive. If and when formation and geologic processes, native Your entrance permit is good for seven eruptions occur in the park, temporary plants and animals, and early Hawaiians. BACKCOUNTRY OFFICE consecutive days. The entrance fee is $20 road signs direct you to safe vantage Parking and restrooms are available. All overnight backcountry hiking and per vehicle, $15 per motorcycle and $10 points. For eruption updates, please call The Thomas A. Jaggar Museum, lo- camping requires a permit. Permits are per hiker or bicyclist. (808) 985-6000. cated next to the Hawaiian Volcano Ob- free and must be obtained in person from The Hawai‘i Tri-Park Annual Pass servatory, is situated three miles inside the Backcountry Office at the Visitor is $25 and allows entrance into Hawai‘i PARK BROCHURE AND MAP the park entrance, west of the visitor cen- Emergency Operations Center, located Volcanoes, Haleakalā and Pu‘uhonua o If you enter the park when the entrance ter on Crater Rim Drive. It is open daily about 0.33 mile from the Kīlauea Visitor Honaunau for 12 months from the date of station is open, you will receive a park bro- purchase. chure and map. If you arrive after business hours, pick one up at the Kīlauea Visitor ENTRANCE FEES AND FEDERAL RECREATION LANDS PASSES Center. Keep it handy as a reference and EVERY KID IN A PARK A federal recreation pass is helpful if you plan to visit many national parks, forests or To help engage and create our next for the useful maps it contains. other federal lands. For information, call (888) 275-8747 or visit store.usgs.gov/pass. generation of park visitors, supporters and advocates, the Obama administration, in WHAT TO BRING Type Cost Availability Details partnership with the Federal Land Man- While touring the park, it is a good Annual This one-year pass is available on site, by agement agencies, launched the Every idea to wear a hat, sunglasses and sun- $80 General Public Pass phone or online (see above). Kid in a Park initiative. The immediate goal screen because the sun can be intense. Senior This lifetime pass is available on site or via is to provide an opportunity for each and Since typical weather at Kīlauea’s sum- $10 U.S. residents age 62+ Pass mail order. ID required. every 4th grade student across the coun- mit is cool and rainy, it is a good idea try to experience their federal public lands to bring a warm jacket and rain gear. Military U.S. military members and This one-year pass is available on site. Free and waters in person. To better protect your feet from lava, Pass their dependents ID (CAC Card or DoD Form 1173) required. All kids in the fourth grade have access wear sturdy, closed-toed walking shoes Access U.S. residents with perma- This lifetime pass is available on site or via Free to their own Every Kid in a Park pass at rather than sandals. Potable water and Pass nent disabilities mail order. ID and documentation required. This pass ad- food are not readily available in some everykidinapark.gov. Volunteer 250 cumulative volunteer Inquire locally to obtain information about areas of the park, such as Chain of Cra Free mits the pass owner and any ac- - Pass service hours this one-year pass. companying passengers in a private ters Road. Potable water, grab-and-go

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Center just off Crater Rim Drive. The office souvenirs and grab-and-go fare for one- glass, ceramics, textile arts and bas- learn more about the park and Hawaiian is open daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Back- stop convenience shopping. The Crater ketry, which are available for purchase. culture. country permits may be picked up up to View Gallery showcases native Hawaiian Displays also share artist insights into one day in advance of a backcountry over- arts and crafts including woodwork, jew- their relationships with this active volca- LOST & FOUND night trip. The park does not accept reser- elry, brassware, glassware, Aloha shirts, nic landscape, Hawaiian ecosystems and The park’s lost and found department vations or issue permits in advance. books, art and photographic prints and Hawaiian heritage. Hula and revolving is located at the Visitor Emergency Op- Hawaiian music CDs. Both shops provide shows are staged monthly featuring a par- erations Center. Items may be reported or shipping services. ticular artist or theme. A visit to the Vol- turned in to any park ranger or at one of When lava is active and accessible and cano Art Center Gallery will inspire you to the visitor centers. visitation warrants, Volcano House, in con- VISITOR SERVICES junction with the Hawai‘i Volcanoes National A HAWAIIAN PRIMER & PRONUNCIATION GUIDE Park, opens the End of the Road gift shop, located at the end of Chain of Craters Road. BANKING Hawaiian was not a written language A Guide to Words Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park is in a Water, flashlights, rain gear, snacks and cold until missionaries devised a 13-sound Hawaiian English rural setting, and the amenities that towns drinks are available at the lava viewing park- alphabet. Islanders were discouraged aikāne friend may offer are far removed. ATMs are lo- ing area. Don’t miss the unique opportunity from speaking Hawaiian in public, so it akua god, goddess cated at Kīlauea Military Camp and in Vol- to see where lava once entered the Pacific survived primarily through music. Today, aloha greeting, love cano Village, but the nearest full-service Ocean. Note: Conditions change all the this melodic language is more appreci- anu cold, cool banks are in Pahala, Kea‘au and Hilo, 25 to time, and you might just get lucky and see ated and is taught in schools. hahana hot, warm 30 miles (40–48 km) away. flows close to the end of Chain of Craters Seven constants and five vowels make honō bay, valley Road. Always check with park rangers for up the Hawaiian alphabet. Hawaiian, honua land, earth EMERGENCIES the latest conditions. along with several Polynesian languages, ka‘ao legend Call 911 for emergency fire, paramedic or uses two diacritical marks to change the kahawai stream pronunciation and meaning of words. kai sea police assistance, or to report accidents or LOCAL CRAFTS injuries. Emergency 911 phones are avail- More than 340 local artisans exhibit their The Kāhāko is a macron, a short, kakahiaka morning horizontal line that is used over vowels. able at the Ka‘u Desert and Mauna Loa creative works at the kama’āina native born Volcano Art Cen- It indicates that a vowel sound should be trailheads as well as at the Pu‘u Loa turnout , located in the historic 1877 kōkua help, assistance ter Gallery elongated. le‘a joy and Kulanaokuaiki Campground. There are Volcano House hotel building, next to the The ‘okinā is the single, open quote mahalo thanks no doctors stationed in the park. Report all Kīlauea Visitor Center. The building is listed that appears frequently before vowels. It mahimahi dolphin fish accidents to a park ranger. in the National Register of Historic Places as indicates a break between vowels, such makai toward sea Hawai‘i’s oldest visitor accommodation. To- as in the English phrase “uh-oh.” malihini newcomer GAS STATIONS day, the Volcano Art Center operates its art mauka toward mountain PRONUNCIATION OF HAWAIIAN There are no service stations located in gallery under a special arrangement with the nalu wave the park. Gasoline and very limited auto- NPS and is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit educational Consonants nani pretty motive services are available at two stores and cultural organization. p/k/h/l/m/n as in English no ke aha? why? in Volcano Village, just off Route 11 on the Visit the Volcano Art Center Gal- w after i and e, like v ‘ohana family way to Hilo, one mile northeast of the park. lery and experience an extension of the after u and o, like w palaoa whale park’s interpretive program. Discover Vowels pau stop, quit fine and functional artworks inspired by a like a in another pilikia trouble GIFT SHOPS e like a in ace The operates two gift the Hawaiian culture and the natural en- pō night Volcano House i like e in eagle shops, offering a large variety of reason- vironment of the Kīlauea region. The gal- pua flower, garden o like o in ocean puka door, hole ably priced gift items including native Ha- lery showcases the finest examples of u like u in tune waena center, middle waiian arts, volcano T-shirts, sweaters, painting, sculpture, photography, wood,

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Gallery. Park interpreters can provide infor- have wheelchair-accessible restrooms. mation and often lead hikes for those who The campgrounds are open year-round on need special assistance. For special ser- a first-come, first-served basis. No reser- vices related to hula performances, contact vations or permission is needed.

Volcano Art Center Volcano Art Center. Visitors may borrow Call (808) 985-6000 for more information. a wheelchair from Kīlauea Visitor Center, Crater Rim Drive and Chain of Craters Road Jaggar Museum or the ranger station at the offer scenic vistas of the volcano and its for- end of Chain of Craters Road. ests from several roadside pullouts. The one-mile, fully accessible Sulphur Banks Trail invites visitors of all capabili- TRANSPORTATION ties to explore the park’s thermally-active Most visitors come by car, but you may areas of steam vents and solfataras. also take a chartered bus tour by making A paved path meanders through steaming arrangements with various tour operators meadow and ‘ohi‘a forest. At Sulphur Banks, based in Hilo and Kailua-Kona. the trail transitions to a five-foot-wide raised The only public transportation to the boardwalk that extends 1,000 feet, protect- park is offered by the County of Hawai‘i’s ing natural geothermal processes and allow- Hele-On Bus. Service to the park is of- ing visitors to peer into steam vents and be fered Monday through Friday on the Local Hawaiian arts and crafts, such as pottery and jewelry, are available at the Volcano Art Center. at eye-level with sulfur crystals. “Ka’u-Volcano-Hilo” bus line. A portion of the Earthquake Trail, a The bus departs the Hilo downtown MEDICAL & DENTAL SERVICES Center. It is open weekdays from 7:15 a.m. to one-mile stretch of the Crater Rim Trail, terminal five times daily from 5 a.m. and First-aid facilities are located at the 11:30 a.m. and from noon to 3:15 p.m. is wheelchair-accessible with assistance. 4:40 p.m. and departs from the Kīlauea Kīlauea Visitor Center and the Eruption In- The main post office is located Thurston Lava Tube (Nāhuku) has a paved Visitor Center parking area five times formation Center at the end of Chain of Cra- on Old Volcano Highway in Volcano trail leading through a fern forest. Steep daily from 6:10 a.m. and 5:50 p.m. ters Road. and is open weekdays from 7:30 a.m. stairways lead into and out of the lava The trip is one hour and ten minutes in The nearest hospital is located in Pahala, to 3:30 p.m.;and on Saturdays from tube, but the lava tube is not accessible. one direction. The ride is free; luggage, 25 miles (40 km) southwest of the park. The 11 a.m. to noon. Restrooms are wheelchair-accessible. backpacks and bicycles are $1 each. The nearest full-service hospital is in Hilo. Campsites at Nāmakanipaio (on Highway $2 island-wide Hele-On Bus schedule is PUBLIC PHONES 11) and Kulanaokuaiki (on Hilina Pali Road) available at heleonbus.org. PETS Public phones are located at Kīlauea Vis- The nearest kennel is located in Hilo, itor Center, Volcano House Hotel, Jaggar 30 miles (48 km) northeast of the park. Museum and Namakanipaio Campground. IMPORTANT NUMBERS

Park Headquarters and Information (808) 985-6000 nps.gov/havo PICNIC & CAMPING SUPPLIES RELIGIOUS SERVICES Grab-and-go fare is sold at Volcano Religious services are available in Emergencies 911 House in the park. The shops in Vol- nearby towns. Camping Information (808) 985-6000 cano Village sell groceries and camping (808) 441-7750 supplies.  Dining, Lodging and Cabin Reservations SPECIAL SERVICES (866) 536-7972 Major park buildings and their adjacent Eruption Update (808) 985-6000 POST OFFICE facilities that are wheelchair-accessible are A post office is located at Kīlauea Military indicated by the  symbol. These include Lost and Found (808) 985-6000 Camp, a Joint Services Recreation Cen- Kīlauea Visitor Center, Volcano House, Special Services  (808) 985-6000++ ter, located one mile west of Kīlauea Visitor Jaggar Museum and Volcano Art Center

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SIGHTS TO SEE LAVA FLOWS that leads from the volcano toward the Kīlauea’s ongoing eruption changes ev- sea. The road was blocked by lava flows ery day. Flowing lava is sometimes visible in 1986, reopened, and then blocked According to Hawaiian tradition, it took intermittently, both at the summit and along at the end of the Chain of Craters Road. For again in 1987. Pele-honua-mea, Pele the sacred earth its flanks (or rift zones) a total of 40 times. up-to-date information about where (and if) person, many eons to create her marvel- The current eruption began on January 3, active lava flows exist, talk to park rangers STEAM VENTS ous home, fashioned with red-hot, flowing 1983, and is Hawai‘i’s largest and longest at the Kīlauea Visitor Center. When groundwater reaches rock of suf- rock. You are now a guest of Pele and the flank eruption in recorded history. There is ficient temperature, steam forms. This is wonders she made are for you to treasure no indication when it may end. The current PIT CRATERS particularly common in the summit area and respect. summit eruption began March 19, 2008 and Collapses that are smaller than the and along the rift zones where magma continues. The lava lake at Halema‘uma‘u summit caldera collapses are called pit (underground lava) is near the surface. Air ACTIVE VOLCANOES is below the surface, but visitors can see a craters. Halema‘uma‘u at Kīlauea is an temperature and humidity affect the vis- The park encompasses two active volca- dramatic plume of gas and steam by day, example. Pit craters can occur both in the ibility of steam escaping from cracks in the noes, Mauna Loa and Kīlauea. Mauna Loa, and a red/orange glow from it at night from summit region and along rift zones. The lava flows, so the visible amount may vary measured from its base (on ocean crust) to several vantage points in the park, particu- upper-reaches of Kīlauea’s East Rift Zone considerably from day to day. its summit, is technically taller than Mauna larly Kīlauea Overlook and the Jaggar Mu- are dotted with these depressions, giving Kea (a volcano located just outside the seum Overlook (the closest you can get). the name “Chain of Craters” to the road SULPHUR BANKS park), making it the tallest mountain in the Because the plume contains hazardous Sulphur deposits, left where volcanic world. Mauna Loa rises 13,677 feet (4,169 volcanic materials, gases, and even volca- TYPES OF LAVA gases have seeped out with ground-water m) above sea level and descends more than nic glass, the south portion of Crater Rim steam, may be seen in or near the caldera eight miles (13 km) below it. But Mauna Drive is closed. You will see two types of lava in of Kīlauea. Kea, at 13,796 feet (4,205 m), surpasses it During the past 1,100 years, lava flows Hawai‘i: ‘a‘ā and pāhoehoe. ‘A‘ā is in overall height when measured from sea have buried 500 square miles (1,300 square rough and chunky, while pāhoehoe KĪPUKA level. In volume, Mauna Loa is the world’s km)—more than 90 percent—of Kīlauea’s is smooth and ropy. Lava may vary When flows move downhill as rivers of most massive mountain. Its 21,592 cubic surface. Visit hvo.wr.usgs.gov for current in color from shiny black to dull lava, they frequently leave isolated “is- miles (90,000 cubic km) are more than 100 volcano information and photographs. brown. Both types have the same lands” of untouched ground. Hawaiians times the size of Mount Rainier in the state chemical composition, but pahoe- call these areas in lava flows “kīpuka.” It is of Washington. Mauna Loa has erupted 33 hoe is hotter and more fluid than within these kipuka that many interesting CALDERAS ‘a‘ā at the time of eruption. times in the last 150 years. During the last Both Mauna Loa and Kīlauea created native plants and animals have evolved. 1,000 years, its lava has covered more than summit calderas (or craters) when lava 824 square miles (2,133 square km)—40 drained from an underground magma NA PALI percent of Mauna Loa’s land area. Its last chamber, causing the unsupported vol- Fault scarps, or pali (Hawaiian for “cliff”), eruption occurred in 1984, and threatened cano summit to collapse. Moku‘āweoweo, are common throughout the state. In the

the city of Hilo. Mauna Loa’s caldera, is three miles long, Christian Newton park, small ones are prevalent around the Mauna Loa’s much smaller neighbor, 1.5 miles wide and up to 600 feet (183 m) summit caldera while larger ones are found ‘a‘ã lava 4,000-foot (1,219 m) Kīlauea, might go un- deep. The caldera at Kīlauea is 2.5 miles between summits and the sea. Grand ex- noticed except that it is one of the world’s long, two miles wide and 400 feet (122 m) amples, including the Hilina Pali, can be most active volcanoes. For more than 100 deep. When viewed by missionary William seen while descending Chain of Craters years, Kīlauea was almost continuously Ellis in 1823, it was more than 800 feet Road. These cliffs normally form slowly active. During this period, the pit crater (244 m) deep. Lava flows from and near over long periods of time, but increments Halema‘uma‘u was a lava lake (the draining Halema‘uma‘u have, over the years, filled it of several feet may develop suddenly as

of the lake caused a violent steam eruption to its present level. The most recent summit U.S. Geological Survey pãhoehoe lava ground shifts along fault lines or during in 1924). Since then, Kīlauea has erupted flows were in 1974 and 1982. coastal subsidence.

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Although Hawaiian tropical weather is NPS fairly consistent year-round, there is some variation. Winters tend to be slightly wetter, summers slightly warmer, and precipitation and temperature vary according to location and time of year. Precipitation is always greater on the windward sides of Kīlauea and Mauna Loa. In the park, annual rainfall varies from 20 to 100 inches (50–250 cm). Temperature, which varies by elevation, may exceed 90°F (32°C) at sea level. At the summit of Kīlauea, temperatures are at least 20 degrees colder than at sea level and wind chills can drop temperatures below freezing at any time of year. The top of The black sand beaches and cliffs of Hawai’I Volcanoes make for amazing photos. Mauna Loa, sometimes covered by snow Learn about park plants and wildlife during a ranger-led program. Ask at a visitor center for in winter, is usually freezing cold, even in a program schedule. THE SEACOAST TREE MOLDS AND LAVA TREES summer. It is wise to bring warm clothing Most of the seacoast within the park is Tree molds form when lava engulfs a tree if you plan outdoor activities on or near the broaden your understanding of the park’s made up of rugged cliffs interrupted with and later cools around it, forming a crust. top of either volcano. principal attractions. The 40-mile (64 km) occasional small, temporary beaches. Usually the tree burns out, leaving a hole, round-trip drive takes about three hours Wave action continually erodes the base of or “tree mold,” in the lava. Lava trees form PARK PROGRAMS from Kīlauea Visitor Center. Food and gas the cliffs, undermining them and causing similarly, except the lava that surrounded Before going to see the volcano, take time are not available along the route. Gas sta- large chunks to fall off. Uneven erosion of the tree drains away, leaving a hardened, to become acquainted with the exhibits at tions and general stores are located in rocks of varying hardness sometimes re- misshapen crust around the tree. Kīlauea Visitor Center, open from 8:45 a.m. Volcano Village, one mile from the park sults in the formation of sea arches. to 5 p.m. daily. A 25-minute introductory film entrance station on Highway 11 toward RAINFOREST about the park is shown at the center on the Hilo. Details about this drive (and others) BLACK SAND BEACHES The windward side of Kīlauea, with hour from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. It will help are available at the Kīlauea Visitor Center. When hot lava spills into the sea it shat- annual rainfall of more than 100 inches, you understand the features you will see in An eruption on the East Rift Zone, ters into black sand and is carried by cur- has a distinctive rainforest. The ‘ōhi‘a the park. Check with rangers at Kīlauea Visi- which began on January 3, 1983, is still rents along the coastline. If the sand is lehua tree forms the canopy, while the tor Center front desk for additional programs active. Halema‘uma‘u became active deposited in sites protected from heavy tree fern, or hāpu‘u, grows beneath. conducted on the half-hour. You can also again on March 19, 2008 with a small wave action, unstable beaches may form. The tree fern was important to ancient obtain firsthand information on any special explosive eruption and erupts currently. Note: Swimming at these beaches is Hawaiians, who used pulu, the brown, activities planned or consult a schedule of Scientists tell us that some eruptions dangerous and could be life threatening. silky hair covering the unfurled fronds, to activities posted on bulletin boards outside of in prehistoric times lasted more than 40 The life span of black sand beaches is vari- embalm the dead. In the mid-1800s, pulu Kīlauea Visitor Center and Jaggar Museum. years. There has been no indication of able; some may last a few days; others for was used to stuff mattresses and pillows. when this one may end, so you may have centuries. In 1992, lava covered the black Much was sent to the mainland for this TOURING the opportunity to see it. sand beach at Kamoamoa just five years purpose, and was even used at hotels in If you have a few hours to spend, a Along Chain of Craters Road, you will after it formed. Yosemite National Park. drive down Chain of Craters Road will cross broad flows that came from Mauna

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Ulu (or “Growing Mountain”) from 1969 hike to the summit cabin on the south rim HISTORY to 1974 and see short sections of the old of Mauna Loa’s caldera at an elevation road not covered by these flows. You can of 13,250 feet (4,039 m). Please see the hike to Pu‘u Loa Petroglyphs, marvel at “Walking & Hiking” chapter for more infor- The major inhabited Hawaiian Islands island in the Hawaiian chain. Currently, the rugged seacoast with its occasional mation about these and other hikes. were formed during the past 5 million it is about 3,000 feet below sea level. If it sea arch, see the island’s newest black years by the intermittent outpouring of continues to grow at the rate that the is- sand beaches scattered along the coast GUIDED TOURS lava from the floor of the Pacific Ocean. land of Hawai‘i developed, 100,000 years and stop where lava flows from the current Land-based tour operators can show According to the theory of plate tecton- will pass before Lō‘ihi breaks the water eruption have blocked the road. Nearly you the park both by car and on foot. For ics, the island of Hawai‘i sits on, and is al- surface. nine miles of the road east of this point more information visit the Hawai‘i Island most in the middle of, the Pacific Plate, a have been covered since 1986. Visitors Bureau online at gohawaii.com/ giant jigsaw piece of the Earth’s crust that ARRIVAL OF POLYNESIANS If you are spending several days in the bigisland or the Hawai‘i Ecotourism Asso- is moving slowly (about four inches per The first discoverers of Hawai‘i are be- park, other short drives can take you to ciation online at hawaiiecotourism.org. year) in a northwesterly direction. As Ja- lieved to have come from the Marquesas some spectacular, less-visited sections. net Babb explains in Hawai‘i Volcanoes— Islands, at about A.D. 500. A second mi- Hilina Pali Overlook is reached by SPECIAL EVENTS The Story Behind the Scenery, “Heat gration, from Tahiti, began sometime be- driving over a narrow, paved road that From hula concerts to ‘Art in the Park’ from a relatively stationary hot spot deep tween A.D. 1200 and A.D. 1400. These branches off from Chain of Craters and other cultural presentations, many within the Earth’s mantle creates magma invaders became the conquerors and rul- Road. Use Hilina Pali trailhead or Ke- special events are available throughout (molten rock) that rises through the over- ers of Hawai‘i and brought with them the auhou Trail (beginning at the Mau Loa O the year and a number of additional events lying Pacific plate and erupts on the political system of kapu, which is made up Mauna Ulu parking area on Chain of Cra- have been added in 2016 to celebrate the ocean floor. After thousands of eruptions, of a strict form of rules. ters Road) for access to Halape, which park’s 100th anniversary. For more infor- an island builds a rocky mass above sea Evidence of early Hawaiian settlement is a backcountry site reachable only by mation, check the park website, nps.gov/ level.” Like a slow-paced assembly line, is found throughout the islands. The an- a rigorous hike. A campground, Kula- havo, or contact the Kîlauea Visitor Cen- the plate, moving over the hot spot, has cient Hawaiians lived off the sea and low- naokuaiki, is located near the Mauna Iki ter or the Volcano Art Center. For a current created a succession of islands in the Ha- land agricultural areas. For this reason, trailhead. Please call (808) 985-6000 for listing of hula arts events in the park, visit waiian Ridge that extends all the way to we find most of their ruins near shorelines. updated information. volcanoartcenter.org. Midway and Kure, more than 1,500 miles Villages, isolated house sites, agricultural Hilina Pali Overlook, perched on top (2,414 km) from where it began 30 to 35 mounds, petroglyph fields, refuge caves, of the fault scarp of the same name, is NIGHTLIFE million years ago. heiau (temples) and many other signs of also a starting point for hikes to the sea Throughout the year, the park operates The Hawaiian Islands are but mere their early presence can be found on the is- and provides excellent views of the coast its After Dark in the Park series of inter- tops of gigantic mountains rising from land. In the park, the legacy of the ancient 2,200 feet (671 m) below. On clear days, pretive programs. Check the park website the floor of the ocean. The newest of Hawaiians lives on in the petroglyph fields, the southernmost point of the United for a current schedule. these islands, Hawai‘i, is relatively young, and caves, house sites and canoe landings. States, Ka Lae (South Point), is visible. The evening programs are educational geologically speaking. The oldest rocks Another scenic drive is Mauna Loa in nature and may range from a talk about above sea level are less than one mil- THE SECOND DISCOVERY Road, reached from Highway 11 just be- whale watching to a lecture on geology. lion years old. The Island of Hawai‘i was The Hawaiian Islands remained isolated yond the Volcano Golf Course, about two The Volcano Art Center also occasionally formed by five volcanoes, but only three from the rest of the world until 1778, when miles from the park entrance. Attractions sponsors artist receptions, concerts and vi- are considered active: Hualalai, Mauna Captain James Cook first sighted the is- along this route include the Tree Molds, sual arts performances in the evening. Loa and Kīlauea. The latter are two of the lands of O‘ahu, Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau. In Feb- Kīpukapuaulu and a pleasant koa for- Uncle George’s Lounge at Volcano world’s most active volcanoes. ruary 1779, the English navigator returned est. The road becomes narrow and wind- House offers food, entertainment and sig- A new sister volcano is Lō‘ihi Sea- to discover other islands in the main group, ing above Kipukapuaulu, ending at the nature cocktails with panoramic views of mount, an underwater active volcano including Hawai‘i. He was killed by Hawai- 6,662 foot (2,031 m) level with a spectacu- Kīlauea and Mauna Loa Mountain. about 20 miles (32 km) off the southeast ian warriors while anchored at Kealakekua lar view. From here begins the 18.3-mile coast of Hawai‘i. Lo‘ihi may be the next Bay on Hawai‘i Island’s west coast. A mon-

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ing scientific observations. The party also camped briefly on Waldron Ledge over- FUN FACTS looking Kīlauea Caldera. Although Kīlauea was extremely difficult Q. IS IT TRUE to reach, a growing number of people ex- HAWAIIANS pended the necessary energy to do so. In CAME FROM 1824, Lord George Anson Byron came to POLYNESIA? Kīlauea while visiting the islands to return the Polynesians from the bodies of the Hawaiian king and queen who Marquesas Islands had died of measles while visiting England. migrated to Hawai‘i over 1,600 years ago, navigating by the sun and stars and reading the winds and the flight VOLCANO HOUSE of seabirds. They sailed across By the 1840s, a growing need for accom- 2,400 miles of open ocean in great modations at Kīlauea became evident. At double-hulled canoes, bringing an elevation of 4,000 feet, and with strong items essential to their survival such winds and frequent rain, little thatched huts as chickens, dogs and sugarcane. were hardly adequate to meet this need. The first Volcano House was built on the rim of For answers to all your questions, the caldera. It was made of thatch, too, and it was not until 31 years later that a permanent go to OhRanger.com structure was erected to accommodate visitors to Kīlauea. Since then, the historic hotel ument marks the spot. and its replacements have been improved No other Europeans visited Hawai‘i un- many times by various owners. For more in- til 1786. After that, traders and explorers formation on Volcano House, please see the

came in increasing numbers. Scottish bot- “Lodging & Dining” chapter. Work crew/Library of Congress; Jaggar/Bishop Dr. Museum; Carriage/NPS; other images are uncredited. anist Archibald Menzies of the Vancouver Expedition became, in 1794, the first non- NATIONAL PARK STATUS Hawaiian to climb Mauna Loa. Because the eruptions of Hawaiian volcanoes are gentler than those of most other MISSIONARIES AND volcanoes around the world, lava flows are SCIENTISTS frequently accessible, allowing people to Following the death of King Kame- come and pay their respects to Pele. The hameha the Great in 1819 and the over- early Hawaiians revered her and made offer- throw of the kapu system of rule, the first ings to placate her wrath. In 1823, mission- missionaries arrived from New England. aries William Ellis and Asa Thurston visited In 1823, the Reverend William Ellis toured Kīlauea’s boiling lake of lava. They were the the island of Hawai‘i by land and by sea. first Westerners to do so. Pele’s lake was He also became the first non-Hawaiian described in magazines of the day, and ad- Clockwise from top: The construction of the Crater Rim Road made the area more accessible to to view Kīlauea Volcano in action. Sev- venture-seeking travelers came to see it first- the increasing number of visitors. Dr. Thomas A. Jaggar, seen here at the Laboratory of Seismology, was instrumental in the creation of the park. The fourth Volcano House was erected in enteen years later, a party under Com- hand. Mark Twain, on seeing Kīlauea in 1866, 1891. The second Volcano House was built on the rim of Kīlauea in 1866. Since 1877, the Volcano mander Charles Wilkes spent several enthusiastically wrote, “Here was room for the House has been structurally updated nine times. The first carriage trip in the park was made in weeks on the summit of Mauna Loa mak- imagination to work!” 1893 from Hilo to the volcanoes.

24 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 25 HAWAI´I VOLCANOES WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK HISTORY HAWAI´I VOLCANOES Lorrin Thurston, publisher of the Hono- the volcanoes into a national park in what LODGING & DINING lulu Pacific Commercial Advertiser at the was then the Territory of Hawai‘i. turn of the century, loved to explore the vol- On August 1, 1916, President Woodrow Wil- cano lands. Among his discoveries was a gi- son signed the country’s 15th national park into A variety of lodging and dining options of Kīlauea’s by-gone days escaped un- ant lava tube, formed when a river of hot lava existence. It took 10 years, but Thurston and are available at the park, including hotel harmed. The 1877 structure is now the cooled and crusted over while the still-molten Jaggar’s perseverance paid off. rooms, cabins, and dining rooms with pan- Volcano Art Center Gallery. interior continued to flow downhill. Eventually, At first, the park consisted of only oramic views. The current hotel was built in 1941 at the the lava drained out, leaving a cave-like shell. Kīlauea and Mauna Loa on Hawai‘i and edge of Kīlauea Caldera, with addition of The Thurston Lava Tube (Nahuku) is a major Haleakalā on Maui. Eventually, park bound- the Deluxe Wing built in 1962. In the late attraction on the Crater Rim Drive. aries were extended to include the Ka‘ū 1960s, the Lycurgus family sold Volcano In 1906, Thurston began a campaign and Kalapana regions on Kīlauea, and Ka- House to C. Brewer and Company. Brewer to establish this amazing area as a public huku and the Ola‘a rain forest on Mauna LODGING operated the hotel for a short time and park. His efforts were not effective until he Loa. then hired Sheraton Hotels to manage it. was joined in 1912 by Dr. Thomas A. Jag- In 1961, Haleakalā was made a separate VOLCANO HOUSE Then, it was sold to Ken Direction Corpo- gar, who came to the islands to establish national park. Today, Hawai‘i Volcanoes In 1846, Benjamin Pitman built the first ration, a local family-owned and operated and serve as director of the Hawaiian Vol- National Park protects 333,086 acres (al- Volcano House on the northeast side of company. cano Observatory. Together, the two con- most the size of the island of Oahu) of the the Kīlauea Caldera. The thatched struc- In 1989, extensive work began in an at- servationists collared politicians, wrote island’s volcanic wonders and is a refuge ture was specifically for visitor use. A tempt to restore the casual elegance that editorials and promoted the idea of making for surviving native plants and animals. second Volcano House followed in 1866, made Volcano House world-famous in the In 1980, the United Nations Educa- constructed by J. L. Richardson and Lycurgus years. tional, Scientific and Cultural Organiza- Company. It was here that Mark Twain In 2013, with funding from the National tion (UNESCO) named Hawai‘i Volcanoes stayed that same year. In 1877, the build- Park Service and Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park an International Biosphere ing was enlarged with many of the fin- Lodge Company, the hotel underwent am- Reserve because of its outstanding sce- ished materials coming from Honolulu. ulti-million-dollar renovation that improves nic and scientific values. The park was It was the first truly wooden hotel on the safety and restores cultural and historic recognized for its important volcanic sites island that used lumber and commercial elements. (including two of the world’s most active doors and windows. Many dignitaries, including Mark Twain volcanoes); its volcanic island ecosys- In the late 1800s, the hotel on the rim (1866) and Franklin D. Roosevelt (1934), tem, which preserves one of the largest of Kīlauea changed hands several times, have visited Volcano House, as have many significant ecosystems on the Hawaiian until a larger, Victorian structure was modern-day celebrities and royalty. To- Islands; and its cultural and historic sites. erected. In 1904, George and Demos- day, you can stay year-round at Volcano The Biosphere Reserve program goals are thenes Lycurgus took over management House, the oldest hotel in Hawai‘i and the to conserve the diversity of a designated and became the principal stockholders. only hotel in Hawai‘i Volcanoes National site’s ecosystems and provide areas for Their ownership lasted until 1921, when Park. research, education and training. the hotel was purchased by the InterIs- You have the opportunity to share the Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park was land Steam Navigation Company. In 1932, warmth of the historic lava-stone fireplace named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO George Lycurgus reacquired the hotel, in the lobby. In 1935, Ripley’s Believe It or in 1987. World Heritage Sites recognize and and he and his son, Nicholas, managed it Not stated that the hotel’s fire had been protect areas around the globe that have for more than 30 years. burning continuously for 61 years. For over outstanding natural, historical and cultural In 1940, a devastating fire completely 134 years, the Volcano House fireplace, values. It evolved from the idea that certain destroyed the Victorian hotel built in 1891. which symbolizes the hotel’s warmth natural and cultural sites have “universal Fortunately, the section of the hotel built and its spirit of “Aloha,” has continuously value” for all people. in 1877 had been moved so that this relic burned brightly.

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Volcano House Hotel is located on not allowed. Wi-Fi is available at the hotel. NPS Crater Rim Drive within Hawai‘i Volcanoes Major credit cards are accepted.  National Park. The Volcano House is just Volcano House also operates year- a short walk across Crater Rim Drive from round cabins at Nāmakanipaio Camp- park headquarters and the Kīlauea Visi- ground, three miles west of the park tor Center. The hotel is located 30 miles entrance on Route 11. Each newly-ap- southwest of Hilo on Highway 11 (45 min- propriated cabin can accommodate up ute drive); 96 miles southeast of Kailua- to four people; linen, towel and blankets Kona on Highway 11, or 125 miles through are included. Showers are located nearby. Waimea and Hilo via highways 19 and 11 There is a picnic table and barbecue grill (two and a half to three-hour drive). outside of each cabin. You must provide The Volcano House has a new kitchen, your own charcoal and cooking utensils. beamed ceilings and 34 rooms outfitted There are electric lights but no outlets. with rare koa wood furniture, iconic Ha- It is best to make advance reserva- waiian pieces and museum art. There are tions for lodging at the Volcano House two gift shops, which carry a variety of and the cabins at Nāmakanipaio, espe- items including souvenirs, books, cloth- cially for July and August. Contact the ing, jewelry, and native Hawaiian arts and Hawai‘i Volcanoes Lodge Company at crafts. Other facilities include a grab-and- (808) 441-7750 or (866) 536-7972, or visit go food retail location, The Rim Restau- hawaiivolcanohouse.com. rant and Uncle George’s Lounge. Pets are OTHER ACCOMMODATIONS If you are a member of the military (active, reserve or retired, or Department of Defense FUN FACTS civilian, their dependent or guest), you and your family may find accommodations at the Q. IS THERE Clockwise from top left: Lucky visitors will witness the incredible sight of piping hot lava flowing a Joint Services Rec- into the ocean’s cool water; See native Hawaiian flora and fauna, Nene and ‘ōhia at Mauna Ulu; LODGING IN THE Kīlauea Military Camp, reation Center, which is located one mile west Learn about traditional Hawaiian dance and music; Flowing lava leaves behind molds of trees. PARK? of Park Headquarters. For more information or Yes! Situated on the rim reservations, call (808) 967-8333 or (808) 438- lounge offers an all-day appetizer menu. of the Kīlauea Caldera, 6707 or visit Kilaueamilitarycamp.com. Creative island cuisine highlights the best the Volcano House is There are several vacation rentals of Hawai‘i Island’s bounty through seasonal just a short walk across Crater Rim and bed and breakfasts in the nearby specials; at least 95 percent of the restau- Drive from both the Kīlauea Visitor Center and park headquarters. With community of Volcano Village, located DINING rant’s meat, seafood, fruit and vegetables a history dating back to 1846, it is right outside the park boundary. Hotels are sourced from local ranchers, farmers Hawai‘i’s oldest hotel. Please call are available in Hilo, which is 30 miles VOLCANO HOUSE and suppliers.  (808) 441-7750 or (866) 536-7972 to (48 km) northeast of the park. The only public dining facilities in the park make your reservations. For more information about lodging, are located at Volcano House. The Rim OUTSIDE THE PARK dining and other amenities outside of Restaurant and Uncle George’s Lounge Restaurants in Hilo offer a variety of cui- For answers to all your questions, the park, please call the Hawai‘i Island offer spectacular panoramic views of the sines. There are also restaurants at Volcano go to OhRanger.com Visitors Bureau at (808) 961-5797 or visit Kīlauea Caldera. The restarant serves break- Golf Course and Volcano Village, located gohawaii.com /big-island. fast, lunch and dinner and is open daily. The just outside the park.

28 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 29 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK HAWAI´I VOLCANOES WALKING & HIKING

Walking and hiking in the park can be a Kilauea Visitor Center. Topographic maps fascinating experience. Trails range from are for sale in the park as well as in Hilo and easy walks, such as Thurston Lava Tube, to Kailua-Kona. Free backcountry permits are very strenuous hikes, such as Mauna Loa. required for overnight trips, and are available Whenever you hike, let someone know where at the Backcountry Office at the Visitor you are going and when you plan to return. Emergency Operations Center, which is Carry sufficient drinking water adequate to open daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. For specific the hike’s difficulty, length and the expected trail information, please see the chart below temperature. Sturdy walking shoes, rain gear or visit nps.gov/havo. Note: Roads and trails and sun protection are a must. Most trails situated on two active volcanoes are subject are well maintained and marked, but some to closure at any time due to volcanic erup- backcountry trails are rough, marked only by tions, fumes, and other events. Contact the “ahu,” which are cairns (piles of rock). Pick park for current trail conditions. up free trail guides and other information at

WALKING & HIKING TRAILS

Round-Trip Difficulty Distance Elevation Trail Description Time Gain Crater Rim Trail¹ Kīlauea Loop around Kīlauea caldera through cool rain 11 miles Strenuous Visitor Center forest and warm desert. Partly paved crosses 6.5 hours 500 feet ash deposits and lava rock. AD Devastation Trail Devastation Trail or Paved path winds through the remains of a 1.0 miles Very Easy Pu‘u Pua‘i Overlook forest devastated by high lava fountains in 30 min. Level parking lots 1959. Volcano • Waterfall • Zipline • Maunakea Summit Earthquake Trail (Waldron Ledge) Volcano House Paved path on a section of Crater Rim Drive 1.0 miles Easy that was cracked and destroyed in 1983 by a 45 min. 40 feet Farm • Birdwatching • Private & Custom magnitude 6.6 earthquake.

Halapē2 Keauhou Trailhead Trail descends a steep cliff to a small beach. 14 miles Very (Mau Loa o Mauna Hikers are advised to carry plenty of water and 2 days Strenuous Ulu) or end of Hilina to be prepared for high heat and humidity. 2,200 feet Pali Road Book Your Adventure! Halema‘uma‘u Trail3 Volcano House Descend to the floor of Kīlauea Caldera 6-7 miles Moderate and hike to Halema‘uma‘u Crater. Return the depending 400 feet 808.331.8505 hawaii-forest.com same way or via Byron Ledge and Crater on route ° Rim trails. 1 hour 808.331.3620 ° kohalazipline.com 30 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | HAWAI´I VOLCANOES WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK WALKING & HIKING HAWAI´I VOLCANOES

WALKING & HIKING TRAILS (CONTINUED) CAMPING

Round-Trip Difficulty Distance Elevation There are two drive-in campgrounds in campsites. Drinking water is not avail- Trail Description Time Gain the park. Nāmakanipaio is three miles (5 able, so be sure to bring your own. There Kīlauea Iki Trail km) from the park entrance on Highway is no charge and no reservation or per- Kīlauea Iki parking lot Loop trail passes through a tropical rainforest 4 miles Moderate to 11. It is a large grassy area with tall eu- mission required for your stay. on Crater Rim Drive and crosses a stark volcanic landscape on 2-3 hours strenuous calyptus and ‘ohi‘a trees. Nāmakanipaio Stays are limited to seven days a month the crater floor. 400 feet has eating shelters, wheelchair-acces- and 30 days per year. All campsites are Kipukapuaulu sible restrooms and firepits. Firewood available on a first-come, first-served ba- Kipukapuaulu Loop trail follows an unpaved path through an 1 mile Easy is not available at the campsite and it is sis (except Namakanipaio cabins). Other parking area on “island” of forest and meadow rich with rare 1 hour 100 feet Mauna Loa Road plants. illegal to collect firewood in the park, so than at designated backcountry camp- you must bring your own. Cabins with sites, these are the only legal places to 3 Mauna Iki the use of showers are also available camp. Backcountry camping requires Ka‘u Desert Trailhead This lava dome formed during the 1920 south- 3.6 miles Easy to at Nāmakanipaio and are operated by a free permit, available from the Back on Highway 11 west rift zone eruption. When you arrive at the 2 hours moderate arid, wind-swept Ka‘u Desert, take care not to 150 feet Hawai‘i Volcanoes Lodge Company. For country Office at the Visitor Emergency disturb its fragile features. more information, call (808) 441‑7750 or Operations Center. (866) 536‑7972, or visit hawaiivolcano- For more information, please call Mauna Loa2 Top of It takes two days to climb to the south rim of 38 miles very house.com.  (808) 985‑6000, visit nps.gov/havo, or Mauna Loa Road Moku‘aweoweo Caldera; most hikers spend 4 days strenuous Kulanaokuaiki, four miles from Chain write the Superintendent, P.O. Box 52, the first night in a cabin at Red Hill and hike to 6,662 of Craters Road off of Hilina Pali Road, Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, HI the summit shelter on the second day. Plan an feet additional half-day to hike around the caldera has wheelchair-accessible restrooms and 96718. to the true summit at 13,677 feet. (Experi- enced backpackers only: snow, wind and alti-

tude sickness can be hazards.) NPS

Napau Crater¹ Mauna Ulu parking Pass by Pu’u Huluhulu, a prehistoric cinder 14 miles strenuous area on Chain of cone, and Mauna Ulu, the vent for the 1969– 7 + hours 200 - Craters Road 1974 eruption. The top of Pu‘u Huluhulu 500 feet offers excellent views of Kilauea’s east rift zone, including Pu‘u‘O‘o, an active vent.

Pu`u Loa Petroglyphs Pu‘u Loa trailhead, Rocky, coastal trail leads to ki‘i pohaku 2 mile easy to 20 miles down Chain (petroglyphs) carved into 500-year-old lava 1.5 hour moderate of Craters Road rock. Petroglyphs (rock carvings) are fragile, 40 feet so take care not to step on them.

Thurston Lava Tube (Nahaku) Thurston Lava Tube Surfaced loop trail passes through a rich 2 miles easy parking area fern forest and a lava tube. Stair climb is 20 mins 100 feet necessary to enter and exit the tube. 1 Due to high levels of sulphur dioxide gas, the south section of Crater Rim Trail is closed from Jaggar Museum to Keanakakoi Overlook. 2 Backcountry permit required. 3 The Crater Rim portion of the trail was closed at press time due to high levels of sulphur dioxide gas. Contact the park for status. Nāmakanipaio Campground has restrooms, water, picnic tables and barbecue pits.

32 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 33 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK - HALEAKALA¯ PLAN YOUR VISIT HALEAKALA PLAN YOUR VISIT

PARK ENTRANCE See “Hawai‘i Volcanoes: Planning Your Spreading across 33,000 acres, Visit” for information about National Park Haleakalā National Park extends from the Passes. Kīpahulu coastline, on the southeastern side of the volcano, up to its 10,023 foot VISITOR CENTERS (3,055 m) summit. The two areas of the Park Headquarters Visitor Center is park are not connected via roadway, but located one mile from the park entrance at both can be approached from Kahului. 7,000 feet (2,134 m), and is open year-round The summit is a three-hour drive round-trip from 8 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Restrooms, a pub- from Kahului and can be reached via High- lic telephone, a picnic area and a Hawai‘i way 37 to 377 to 378. The Kīpahulu area Pacific Parks Association park store are lo- can be reached from Kahului via Highway cated here. Permits for backcountry camp- 36 to 360 to 31 and will take about three to ing and cabins can be obtained until 3 p.m. four hours each way. Highway 31 continues Haleakalā Visitor Center is located around the dry side of the island toward near the summit of Haleakalā at 9,700 feet Kaupō, however, be aware that the road (2,957 m), 10 miles from the park entrance. is rough and most rental agencies will not It is open year-round, from sunrise to

provide assistance if you break your con- 3 p.m. There are interpretive exhibits on the Clockwise from top left: Esther Lee; Esther Lee; Dave Dugdale; Forest and Kim Starr tract and venture there. nature, geology and culture of Haleakalā. Kīpahulu Visitor Center, located off GENERAL INFORMATION of Highway 31 on the Kīpahulu coast demonstrations. There are restrooms, freezing at any time of year. Weather can The park is open 24 hours a day, year- near the Pools at ‘Ohe‘o Gulch, is open a public telephone, picnic tables and a change rapidly from intense sunlight, to round including holidays. For general park from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. during the sum- Clockwise from top left: Trails wind through an otherworldly landscape; The dramatic landscape of information, call (808) 572-4400 or stop mer. The visitor center has exhibits Hāleakala; Get information about the park at the visitor’s center; Hāleakala’s climate supports at Park Headquarters Visitor Center, the about the Kīpahulu area. Rangers are on biodiversity. Hāleakala Visitor Center or the Kīpahulu duty during business hours to answer Visitor Center. Park information is also questions. Ask for a schedule of cultural drive-in campground available. thick clouds, to heavy rains and high winds available online at nps.gov/hale. Note: Nei- reaching 25 to 50 miles per hour. ther food nor gas is available in the park. IMPORTANT NUMBERS SPECIAL SERVICES Kīpahulu weather is tropical with occa- Major park buildings and their facili- sional light rain showers. Expect the tropi- Park Headquarters (808) 985-6000 ties that are wheelchair-accessible are cal weather to be humid, warm to hot, and and Information nps.gov/havo ENTRANCE FEES indicated by the symbol. Note: Park prone to sudden heavy rains and winds. Your entrance permit is good for three Kīpahulu Visitor trails are currently unpaved and are Please heed safety signs. Swimming is not Center (808) 248-7375 consecutive days. The entrance fee is not suitable for wheelchair use. recommended as flash floods and rock $20 per car, $15 per motorcycle and $10 Emergencies 911 falls can occur at any time. Remember that per pedestrian or bicyclist. A you are responsible for your own safety. Hawai‘i Tri- Camping Information (808) 572-4400 WEATHER AND CLIMATE Park Annual Pass is available for $25 and Weather at the summit of Haleakalā is Do not underestimate the risk, and always allows entrance into Haleakalā, Hawai‘i Volunteer Information (808) 572-4487 unpredictable. Temperatures are at least obey all caution signs and warnings from Volcanoes and Pu‘uhonua o Honaunau 20 degrees colder than at sea level and rangers. For the weather forecast, please Weather Forecast (808) 944-5025 for 12 months from date of purchase. the windchill can drop temperatures below call (808) 944-5025.

34 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 35 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK - HALEAKALA¯ SIGHTS TO SEE HALEAKALA SIGHTS TO SEE

Nothing dominates the visual splendor and 7 a.m., the reservation receipt (for that of Māui like the spectacular Haleakalā, or day) and a photo ID. The park entrance is “House of the Sun.” The park’s diverse ter- separate and payable by creidt card or rain encompasses numerous ecosystems. park pass on the day of visit. The entrance The best place to start any trip is at one of fee is good for three days, with receipt. the three visitor centers. Sunsets are equally impressive. The WATERFALLS best locations to watch are the Haleakalā More than 8,000 acres of rainforest drain Visitor Center and the summit. through the park’s streams. Two streams, Palikea and Pīpīwai are entirely within park SKY-WATCHING boundaries, and several of their waterfalls are Magnificent views of the crater can be accessible to visitors. Waimoku (400 feet) and seen at the Haleakalā Visitor Center. It is Makahiku Falls (185 feet) on the volcano’s east- located near the summit of Haleakalā. Over- ern slope are easily reachable by foot. Start looks with orientation panels and exhibits at the Kīpahulu Visitor Center and follow the are located at Leleiwi, Kalahaku and Pu‘u marked trails. The hike parallels ‘Ohe‘o Stream ‘Ula‘ula along the park road ending at the

and Pīpīwai Stream up the lush valley, pass- summit. Stop at one of the several over- YinYang/iStock Boogich/iStock; Lorraine Grimes/iStock; Rocky top: from Clockwise ing ancient taro farm sites and crossing two looks on the park road or take a short walk bridges. Remember to check with park staff for on one of the park trails away from the traffic current trail conditions. Swimming is not rec- noise to watch the clouds. The visual hori- ommended due to flash floods and rock falls. zon in many places in the park is up to 115 miles out to sea. Even cloudy skies can offer SUNRISE AND SUNSET amazing sights including rainbows, moon- Sunrise and sunset at Haleakalā can be bows and halos seen around your shadow. magnificent events. Visitors in personal or Haleakalā is an ideal location to watch plan- rental vehicles wishing to view sunrise at ets, stars and moons after dark. Haleakalā National Park will need to make Star/Sky programs are offered in sunrise viewing reservations ahead of time the summer depending on staff avail- at recreation.gov. The online reservation ability. Rangers tell stories about major system has been implemented to ensure constellations and reveal the secrets Clockwise from top: Enjoy the pools at Ohe’o Gulch; The dark skies over Hāleakala make for visitor and employee safety, protect natural of Polynesian navigation. Wear warm incredible star gazing; See the sunrise over Hāleakala crater. and cultural resources, and provide a qual- clothes and bring a flashlight and some- ity visitor experience at the summit suring thing to lay or sit on. For these programs VIEW NATIVE PLANTS feelings you will have on the mountain. The sunrise hours (3 a.m. to 7 a.m.). The cost and others, visitors should contact the AND ANIMALS landscape—deeply sculpted, richly colored is $1.50 per car. The one-day, non-trans- park approximately one month in ad- The summit of Haleakalā volcano is one and intensely evocative—is unlike any other ferable sunrise reservation will not be sold vance to confirm dates times and loca- of the only easily accessible areas of Hawai‘i landscape in the United States. Visitors can at the park. It is only available online, up to tions. For more information, please call where its rare and endemic species survive hike through diverse habitats and discover 60 days ahead of a planned sunrise visit. To (808) 572‑4400 or visit nps.gov/hale. and thrive. No place you have ever been plants and animals found nowhere else on enter the Summit District between 3 a.m. can prepare you for the experiences and earth.

36 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 37 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK - - WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK HALEAKALA HALEAKALA THINGS TO DO HISTORY

Throughout the year, Haleakalā offers biking, as well as more adventurous activi- GEOLOGY a variety of activities and programs for ties like paragliding and ziplining Nearly 1 million years ago, East Maui visitors. emerged from the Pacific Ocean. West Plan on spending at least two hours in PARK PROGRAMS Maui emerged over 2 million years ago and the park to drive up to the summit and All park programs are free of charge, was one to two kilometers above the sea

back to the entrance. Budget more time included in the cost of park entry. In the before Haleakalā rose up. The larger vol- Global_Pics/iStock if you plan to hike or attend natural or summit area, short programs are offered cano, Haleakalā, may have risen as high as cultural history programs. daily that include walks, talks, and Junior 15,000 feet (4,572 m) above sea level over a Don’t miss the pools and scenic Ranger programs. period of 500,000 years. beauty of Kīpahulu, and make time to When staffing and weather permit, Wind, water and ice carved channels stop by a visitor center, take a short hike ranger-led hikes leave daily from the and valleys down the slopes to the island or plan a picnic. Haleakalā Visitor Center. Stop by a visi- shore. The Ke‘anae and Kaupō valleys were In addition to all the activities previously tor center, call (808) 572-4400 or visit formed. Later lava flows partially filled in the described, the park and surrounding areas nps.gov/hale to find out about the day’s basin to form the large “crater.” The summit Early Hawaiians used the lands of Hāleakala for ceremonial traditions. offer activities like horseback riding and offerings. of Haleakalā rises to 10,023 feet (3,055 m) in elevation. Young cinder cones, eruption sites that are marked by piles of rich, rocky mate- The first recorded journey to the sum- rial deposits, dot the basin landscape. mit of Haleakalā by non-Hawaiians was in The most recent volcanic activity oc- 1828, and it was not until the early 1900s

YinYang/iStock curred about 400 to 600 years ago, when when Lorrin Thurston, a publisher, and Dr. two minor eruptions on the rift zone near Thomas A. Jaggar, a scientist at the Ha- the coast of Makena altered the southwest waiian Volcano Observatory, proposed the coastline of Maui. With the gradual north- area be preserved as a national park. After westward shifting of the Pacific Plate, the years of persistence, Haleakalā was first island of Māui moved away from the “hot established as part of Hawai‘i National Park spot,” a weak area in the earth’s crust in 1916. where magma wells up to the surface and The Kīpahulu Valley was acquired as causes eruptions. additional park territory in 1951, and 10 Haleakalā is still considered active, though years later, on July 1, 1961, Haleakalā was it remains unknown when it will erupt again. It declared a separate national park. has been more active in the last 1,000 years In 1969, the Kīpahulu coastal area of than previous 10,000 years. ‘Ohe‘o was included, further extending the boundaries of Haleakalā. Today, 24,719 PARK HISTORY of the park’s over 35,000 acres are desig- Haleakalā, “House of the Sun,” holds nated wilderness. The lush green valleys a sacred place in Hawaiian history. Tradi- of Kīpahulu are laced with white waterfalls, tion tells of the early Kanaka Maoli (Ha- and the crater’s barren landscape con- waiian people) who sought the isolation trasts the dynamic coastline. The unique of Haleakalā for ceremonial purposes, in- and fragile ecosystems of Haleakalā con- Take in the landscape from the top of the volcano, more than 10,000 feet above sea level. struction and family reasons. tinue to be protected.

38 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 39 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK - HALEAKALA¯ WALKING & HIKING HALEAKALA WALKING & HIKING • Before setting out on any hike, check with the visitor center for current trail conditions. Lux Tonnerre Haleakalā National Park offers diverse SAFETY TIPS hiking trails that wind through shrub-land, It is important to always be prepared • Weather can change rapidly on rainforest, wilderness, coastal areas and whether you are taking a short walk or Haleakalā, so dress in layers, bring a the summit. The summit area of the park half- or full-day hikes. Here are a few tips to warm jacket, carry rain gear, a hat, sun- offers more than 30 miles of trails through make your hike safe and enjoyable: screen and sunglasses. Be sure to wear native shrubland and the aeolian cinder • Always carry at least three quarts of sturdy, comfortable walking shoes that desert. The Kīpahulu area in the south- water per person per day, a first-aid can endure the rough rocky terrain. eastern side of the park has about five kit, flashlight, trail map, food, trash bag miles of trails through the lush, green tropi- and toilet paper. Remember to pack out • High-altitude sickness can be common cal coastal environment. whatever you pack in. due to lack of oxygen. Symptoms include nausea, headache, dizziness and shortness of breath. Descend immedi- WALKING & HIKING TRAILS ately if these symptoms become acute and seek medical attention if symptoms Round-Trip Difficulty Distance Elevation persist. Pregnant women and people Trail Description Time Gain with heart or respiratory problems Summit Areas Trails should consult their doctor before visit- The park’s volcanic craters offer little shade. ing the summit of the park. Bring plenty of water along on hikes. Halemau‘u Halemau‘u This trail takes you through the native shrubland and Easy 2.2 miles 400 feet Trailhead offers views of both the north shore and the crater.

Hosmer Grove Located in a misty cloud forest, this loop trail is Hosmer Grove great for families and kids. It’s a great place to see Easy 0.5 miles campground rare and endangered birds as well native and non- Level parking area native plants..

Keonehe’ehe’e Keonehe’ehe’e, or sliding sands, descends steeply Haleakalā into the crater. For a half-day hike, take the trail to Strenuous 4 miles Visitor Center Split Rock, where you’ll find colorful layers of cinder, 1,500 feet HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES HALEAKALÄ PU‘UHONUA O HÖNAUNAU KALOKO-HONOKÖHAU PU‘UKOHOLÄ HEIAU NATIONAL PARK OF parking lot NATIONAL PARK NATIONAL PARK NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE AMERICAN SAMOA cinder cones and unique rock formations.

Kīpahulu Area Trails HPPA’s nonprofit park stores are your source for distinctive park-specific items that connect you This trail leads from Kuloa Point along the shoreline to the history, culture, wildlife, and geology of these Kahakai Easy Pacific Islands. Kūloa Point to the Kīpahulu Campground. The ocean views are 0.5 miles Level beautiful, but watch your step along cliffs!. Every purchase benefits the parks, for a total of $18.5 million during our 85-year history of park This magnificent trail winds through the rain forest partnership. Let HPPA enrich your park experience: Kūloa Point Loop Kīpahulu Visitor and crosses streams before ending at the base of Easy shop in one of our nine park stores or online from For more information please contact us at: 0.5 miles Level anywhere, anytime! Center 400-foot Waimoku Falls. Be prepared for rain, mud Hawai‘i Pacific Parks Association and slippery moss. Stay connected, become a member, and follow us PO Box 74• Hawai‘i National Park, HI 96718 Main Phone: 808.985.6051 on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram! This magnificent trail winds through the rain forest For trip planning, shopping and membership: PIpIwai and crosses streams before ending at the base of Moderately www.hawaiipacificparks.org Kīpahulu Visitor 4 miles Strenuous Center 400-foot Waimoku Falls. Be prepared for rain, mud 650 feet and slippery moss.

40 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 41 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK - HALEAKALA¯ CAMPING HALEAKALA CAMPING For reservations and availability visit for educational and civic groups, which recreation.gov or call (877) 444-6777. Res- may reserve campground space up to six ervations can be made with a credit card months in advance. Groups are limited to Campers at Haleakalā can choose be- limited firewood, a two-burner propane up to 180 days in advance. Reservations 12 campers. To request group space, send tween drive-up campgrounds or wilder- stove, cooking utensils, dishes and 12 pad- cost $75 per night per cabin. Details are a letter, written on your group’s letterhead, ness campgrounds, which are accessible ded bunks. During droughts, cookware is also available at nps.gov/hale. to: Attn. Cabin Rangers, Haleakalā National only by foot. All campers are reminded removed and you must pack in all of your Special accommodations are made Park, P.O. Box 369 Makawao, HI 96768. that no food, gasoline, supplies, show- water. An adult age 18 or older must accom- ers or electricity are available in the park. pany each group using a cabin. CAMPGROUNDS Limited non-potable water is available and Accessing the wilderness camp- must be filtered before drinking. grounds and cabins requires negotiating For those who need an overnight es- strenuous trails at high elevation. A free cape without a backpack trip, there are permit is required for all overnight says Campground two car-accessible campgrounds. Drive- in the wilderness. Camping and cabin Location Elevation Limit Camper up campgrounds are located at Hosmer permits are available up to one day in ad- Description Max. Group Size Water Toilets BBQ Grills 1 2 Grove and Kīpahulu. There is a three- vace at Park Headquarters Visitor Center Hosmer Grove night camping limit at each of the drive- from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. or at the Kipahulu on the way to the summit 7,000 50 12 Yes Pi Yes up campgrounds. Visitor Center from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. High on the windy slopes of Haleakala There are All campers must also attend a 10-min- primitive wilderness camp- 1 2 at Palikū and Hōlua in the park. ute orientation. Campers are limited to a Kīpahulu grounds reached via Hana Highway 0– They are accessible only by trail. maximum of three nights per 30-day pe- 100 12 None Pit Yes On the wet, east side of the island 1,500 Three are avail- riod in the wilderness campgrounds and wilderness cabins 2 3 4 3 5 able by advance reservation. All cabins are cabins, with no more than two nights at Hōlua Campsites and Cabin 3.7 miles down Halemau‘u Trail or equipped with a wood-burning stove with any one location. 25 7.4 miles down Keonehe`ehe`e Trail campers Must In shrubland near Koolau Gap. Watch and 6,940 12 Pit No 12 in filter

NPS listen for endangered ‘ua‘u (Hawaiian dark- cabin rumped petrel) in spring and summer. 2 3 4 3 5 Palikū Campsites and Cabin 9.3 miles on Keoneheèheè Trail, 10.1 miles on Halemau‘u Trail, 25 or 8.6 miles on Kaupō Trail campers Must 6,380 12 Pit No On east end of the wilderness valley at 12 in filter base of a rain forest cliff. Area is cool and cabin lush due to frequent clouds, fog and rain. 3 5 Kapalaoa Cabin 5.5 miles down Keoneheèheè Trail or 7.3 miles from Halemau‘u Trailhead Must At base of cliffs on south side of valley. 7,250 12 12 Pit No filter Nearby trails lead to the wilderness, where native shrubland grows on lava flows. 1Drive-up campground; 2Sites available on a first-come, first-served basis; 3Hike-in only. Hosmer Grove Campground lies in the cloud belt of Haleakalã, just below the 7,000-foot level, Wilderness permit required; 4Group reservations available; 5Reservations required. in the summit area of the park.

42 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 43 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK PRESERVATION

In today’s world, places as special as cies. Feral animals are those that have Hawai‘i Volcanoes and Haleakala National returned to an untamed state from do- Parks are increasingly important. The parks mestication. Park researchers have found contain some of America’s few native rain- that feral pigs can destroy a rainforest by forests, numerous endemic plant and animal uprooting and killing its important tree fern species, as well as invaluable archeological layer, disturbing soil and introducing alien sites. Every effort must be made to save the plants. Rats, feral cats and mongooses parks and their threatened resources. Much damage native bird populations by killing of this responsibility rests with you. We en- birds and eating eggs. Nesting sites of courage you to learn about and support ef- the hawksbill turtle, an endangered spe- forts to protect them. cies, are located on park beaches and are threatened by mongooses and feral cats. ENDANGERED SPECIES The NPS is reducing predator popula- Hawai‘i’s tropical climate and isolation tions near nesting sites, moving campsites have spawned a diversity of native spe- and educating the public about garbage cies. Some animals and plants are en- proper disposal. demic (found only in Hawai‘i). Sadly, many Efforts are also being made to con- native species have become extinct due trol disruptive, nonnative plants, includ- to destruction caused by humans and ing Morella faya and Kahili ginger, that nonnative plants and animals. The loss of threaten with extinction more than 30 na- one species through extinction has an im- tive plant species. These alien plants have measurable effect on all species, including come to dominate the Hawaiian system humans. The NPS is involved in extensive because natural checks on their growth preservation efforts to ensure the future (other plants, predators and diseases) of other endangered species. Four spe- are left behind in their native countries. cies that receive a great deal of time are: The NPS controls disruptive plants by nēnē and ‘ua‘u birds, green and hawks- weeding. The US Forest Service con- bill turtles, and ‘ahinahina, or Haleakalā ducts biological control research at an in- YOU DON’T HAVE TO GO TO EXTREMES silversword, a rare flora species. To learn sect quarantine lab to learn how to use a more, see the “Nature & Wildlife” chapter. plant’s natural predators such as insects TO ENJOY THE OUTDOORS. YOU JUST to reduce nonnative plants. The lab is the NEED A RUGGED COOLER TO MAKE THEM YOUR OWN. THE NEW OTTERBOX VENTURE. CONSERVATION PROGRAMS only one of its kind directed toward the The NPS protects the parks with many control of weeds in natural areas. DESIGNED IN COLORADO. BUILT IN DETROIT. preservation programs, including endan- All of these programs are designed to gered species programs, alien animal and preserve and protect biological diversity, plant control, and biological control re- the most precious natural resource of the search. Park resource managers are work- park and the Hawaiian Islands. If you have ing to control nonnative animals, such any comments or suggestions about pres- as feral pig, feral cat, rat and mongoose, ervation, please talk to an NPS ranger or which threaten endangered endemic spe- representative. OTTERBOX.COM 44 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS |

OTTER0002006-Nope_American-Park-Network_MECH.indd SAVED: 5-16-2017 5:54 PM BY: Francisco Carrasco PRINTED AT: None

JOB #: OTTER0002006 CD: n/a INKS: CLIENT: OTRUS AD: dougkn Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black MEDIA: Photoshoot CW: briankr FONTS: LIVE: 4.75” x 7.75” CM: n/a Nudista (Bold, SemiBold) TRIM: 5.375” x 8.375” AB: n/a IMAGES: BLEED: 5.857” x 8.875” AP: evahr OTTER0002006_BG_AmericanPark.psd (CMYK; 394 ppi; 75.99%) PUBS: American Park PM: zachgz NOTES: Network PR: camillejn None DA: annrk QC: franciscoco WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK NATURE & WILDLIFE

NATURE & WILDLIFE WATCHABLE WILDLIFE

The tropical climate of the Hawaiian Islands odoratissimus), is another tree formerly is quite hospitable, making the area particularly found along the seacoast in the park. Re- rich in flora. The isolation of the islands, sitting cent lava flows have destroyed most, if not in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, 2,400 miles all, of the screw pines in Hawai‘i Volca- from the nearest continent, has also had an noes National Park. However, the Kīpahulu effect. Many species of plants are endemic, area of Haleakalā National Park is home to 1 2 3 or found nowhere else in the world. Some are many of these trees. Known as the hala to even limited to such small areas of the island Hawaiians, its distinct aerial roots extend of Hawai‘i as Kīpukapuaulu. Of the more than to the ground and help support it. It bears 1,700 plant species once found in Hawai‘i, at an even stranger fruit, which is sometimes least 90 percent are endemic. Many of these mistaken for pineapple. Lauhala, the art of plant species are now extinct, forced out by weaving the leaves of the pandanus is still “alien,” or introduced, plants, of which there practiced on the island of Hawai‘i. 4 5 6 are now more than 4,600 species. Many of the ‘A‘ali‘i (Dodonaea viscosa) and Pūkiawe The bright red Hawaiian Honeycreepers known Hawksbull turtles (Eretmochelys Imbricata) remaining endemic species are now listed as (Styphelia tameiameiae) are two of the most as ‘apapane (Himatione Sanguinea) (1) are make nests and lay eggs on park beaches. After endangered. common shrubs in the park. Both are found identifiable by the white coloring on their bel- hatching, babies dig out of the nest, emerging as a in a variety of habitats. The ‘a‘ali‘i was sa- lies and the undersides of their tails. During group and scrambling to the water under cover of PLANTS mating season, males compete by singing, and darkness. Loss of nesting habitat, predation and The ‘ōhi‘a, or ‘ōhi‘a lehua (Metrosideros females often choose the loudest crooners. poaching (for their shells) have reduced polymorpha), is the most common Hawaiian They use their curved, black bills to eat flower populations to critically low levels. • Size 2.5-3 ft tree you will see. It is found at heights ranging nectar. • Weight 0.5 Oz. • Size 4-6 in long • long • Active Spring through Fall, Photo: Tchami. from sea-level to high on the mountain slopes. Active year-round. Photo: NPS/David Boyle. Depending on habitat, it can be scraggly and The endangered nēnē (5), also known as the short or tall and straight. Its bright-red (some- Introduced from India in 1865, the common Hawaiian goose (Branta Sandvicensis), is one of times yellow) blossoms make it one of the mynah (Acridotheres Tristis) (2) is one of the the park’s most popular birds. Approximately most attractive native trees. most common birds in Hawai’i. They have reg- 1,500 of these birds live on the islands of Hawai‘i, Known locally as “Hawaiian mahogany,” ular roosting trees, and their clamor can be Māui and Kaua‘i. • Weight 3-7 lbs • Size 21-26 koa (Acacia koa) has always been a prized heard for great distances. According to a local in long • Active Spring through Fall. Photo: NPS. wood in Hawai‘i. More importantly, how- song, nothing is certain but “taxes and death ever, koa forests provide important habi- and the mynah bird.” • Weight 8 Oz. • Size 11- The endangered ‘ua’u (Pterodroma And- tats for native plants and animals, including 15 in long • Active year-round. Photo: Jes wichensis) (5), also known as the Hawai- many endangered species. ian Petrel, lives in open oceans, coming It is uncertain just when the coconut Hawaiian ‘Amakihi finches (Hemignathus to land each year to lay a single egg deep palm (Cocos nucifera) arrived in Hawai‘i. Virens) (3) are one of the many species of within burrows or under rocks. Adults usu- Some think it was brought by the first Poly- endemic honeycreepers in Hawai‘i. They are ally leave the nest before the chicks, leav- nesians; others think it floated here before yellowish-green and have slightly curved beaks, ing them vulnerable to feral cats, rats and their arrival. In either case, it was one of the which they use to feed on insects and suck mongooses.• Weight 1 lb • Size 13 in most useful plants to the first settlers, pro- nectar from fruits and flowers. • 4 in long • long; wingspan 36 in • year round. Haleakalã silverswords sprout spectacularly, Size Active viding food, drink and cordage. flower once, and die soon afterward, leaving Active year-round. Photo: Noah Kahn/USFWS Photo: NPS/David Boyle. Screw pine, or pandanus (Pandanus their drying seeds to scatter in the wind.

46 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 47 NATURE & WILDLIFE WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK

such as mouflon sheep, cattle, goats and PEARL HARBOR pigs. Other threats that contributed to the FUN FACTS diminished population of the ‘ahinahina include insects, drought, human disturbance, The World War II Valor in the Pacific Me- alien plants and disease. Efforts are being morial was erected to preserve and honor

Q . WHAT Chadica MAMMALS ARE made to secure the habitats and stabilize the stories of the Pacific War. The U.S.S. NATIVE TO populations. Arizona Memorial, the most well-known THE HAWAIIAN Most of the flowers that people have piece of the Hawai’i section, honors those ISLAND? come to associate with Hawai‘i were in- men and women who lost their lives during A. Hawai‘i has only two endemic troduced from elsewhere. For example, the attack on Pearl Harbor on December species, the Hawaiian monk seal only three species of orchids are native, 7, 1941. The U.S.S. Oklahoma Memorial and the Hawaiian hoary bat. Hoary and these are very small; the others come and U.S.S. Utah Memorial are located on bats are frequently sighted in the from foreign lands. The NPS strives to re- Ford Island and also honor the men and alpine shrubland of the park, and duce the number of plants introduced into women who lost their lives on the dark day A memorial to the U.S.S. Arizona, sunk during the Japanese attack, stands in the harbor. monk seals can occasionally be the park environment and also attempts in American history. sighted sleeping on the beaches to control those already there. As you of Kaloko-Honokohau National become acquainted with the park’s flora, dedicated. The Memorial has come to rep- Historical Park. U.S.S. ARIZONA you will recognize many of these foreign The final resting place for many of the resent and honor all of the military person- For answers to all your questions, species. 1,177 crew members who lost their lives on nel lost on that tragic day. go to OhRanger.com the ship is at the U.S.S. Arizona. The me- The Memorial and visitor center have BIRDS morial is 184 feet long and covers the mid- been operated by the National Park Service With few avian predators, Hawai‘i pro- portion of the sunken battleship. It is split since 1980, and the memorial was desig- cred to Laka, goddess of the hula. Because vided an ideal environment for the devel- into three sections: an entry room, assem- nated a national historic landmark in 1989. of the hardness and durability of the wood, opment of a diverse bird population. Not bly room and shrine room. The assembly Alfred Preis, the memorial’s architect, it was sometimes used in the construction until the arrival of humans, who hunted, room is the main area for ceremonies and spoke about his design: “Wherein the of houses, as well as to make spears and destroyed lowland forests and introduced general observation. In the shrine room, the structure sags in the center but stands other weapons. Its brilliant-red fruit cap- animals and diseases, did Hawaiian birds names of all those killed on the ship are en- strong and vigorous at the ends, expresses sules were crushed and boiled to make experience much difficulty. graved into a marble wall. initial defeat and ultimate victory... The a dye for tapa cloth, and they are still wo- Native Hawaiian honeycreepers, like Sprouting from the sunken battleship, at- overall effect is one of serenity. Overtones ven into leis. Pukiawe grows at elevations the ‘apapane (Himatione sanguinea) and tached to the severed mainmast, a flagpole of sadness have been omitted to permit the of 2,000 feet and up and is one of the last the ‘amakihi (Hemignathus virens), can be rises above the water. In 1950, Admiral Ar- individual to contemplate his own personal plants found at high altitudes. seen feeding on flower nectar or glean- thur Radford, Commander in Chief, Pacific, responses… his innermost feelings.” The ‘ahinahina or Haleakalā silver- ing insects in ‘ōhi‘a lehua trees. You may ordered that the flagpole be placed at the Funding to maintain the memorial is in sword is a rare flora species that exists spot them on Crater Rim Trail, where you site of the sunken ship. Later that year, on part provided by Pacific Historic Parks, a in few locations at elevations of 7,000 to can look down on the treetops from above. the ninth anniversary of the attack, a com- nonprofit group working with survivors and 10,000 feet (2,134 to 3,048 m). Human Mauna Loa Road is also a good place to memorative plaque was positioned at the others interested in preservation. For more steps damage the fragile roots, which look and listen for native birds. flagpole’s base. information visit pacifichistoricparks.org or is one reason that wandering off-trail is The Hawaiian owl or pueo (Asio flam- Eight years later, President Eisenhower call (808) 954-8759. strictly prohibited. The ‘ahinahina is cur- meus sandwichensis) is often observed approved the creation of the memorial. rently a threatened species and the NPS flying over forests and fields in search of Construction was completed three years PEARL HARBOR HISTORY has intervened with protection and res- small birds, rats, mice and insects. The Ha- later using both public funds appropri- Pearl Harbor’s name is adapted from an- toration efforts. Many plants are fenced waiian hawk or ‘io (Buteo solitarius) can be ated by Congress and private donations. cient Hawaiians originally calling the area in to protect them from feeding animals seen at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. On Memorial Day, 1962, the memorial was “Wai Momi,” which meant “waters of pearl.”

48 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 49 PEARL HARBOR PEARL HARBOR

The area received the name for its abun- exhibit honors all of the men, women and dance of pearl-producing oysters that once children, both military and civilian, who laid in the bay. The harbor was once inac- lost their lives due to the attack. Over 100 cessible for ships due to a large coral reef. books relating to the attack, response and The United States gained exclusive War in the Pacific can be found in the USS rights to Pearl Harbor in 1887, though a Arizona Memorial retail store. military base was not erected until 1908. Access to the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial is Work to remove the reef began in 1902. The available through a 75-minute tour. Tickets U.S.S. California was the first large ship to can be obtained from the visitor center on enter the harbor in 1911. the day of the visit, though reservations are On December 7, 1941, the Japanese at- recommended and can be made online at tack began at approximately 7:55 a.m. recreation.gov up to two months in advance when the first wave of planes flying from for a $1.50 convenience fee. The first step we carriers 230 miles north of Oahu arrived recommend is to purchase the National Park at Pearl Harbor. Roughly 15 minutes later, Service’s USS Arizona Memorial Narrated the U.S.S. Arizona was sinking following tour and to take the accompanying headsets an explosion resulting from a 1,760-pound through the two museums. Then the visitor armor-piercing bomb coming through the should proceed to the Pearl Harbor Memorial deck and igniting the ship’s forward am- Theatre, and watch a 23-minute documen- munition magazine. The U.S.S. Oklahoma tary about the attack. Visitors then board a Clockwise from top: Vacclav/iStock; sphraner/iStock; Eric Broder Van Dyke/iStock was hit by torpedoes and rolled over, trap- Navy shuttle to the Memorial and listen to the ping more than 400 men inside. The U.S.S. incredible Pearl Harbor Survivor sements of Utah was also capsized, with 50 men from the tour while experiencing the site. Upon re- the crew. turning to the Visitor Center, the Narrated Tour While 21 total ships were sunk or took continues along the Pearl Harbor shoreline for serious damage, shipyards, fuel storage ar- the “Path of Attack” tour. eas, submarine bases and aircraft carriers The U.S.S. Oklahoma Memorial is acces- all took little to no damage. The total Ameri- sible to the public by taking a shuttle to Ford can death toll from the attack was 2,390. Island. The U.S.S. Utah Memorial is not currently accessible to the public and is only Clockwise from top. The U.S.S. Bowfin submarine is on display at the Pearl Harbor museum; available to those with military base access. Pearl Harbor veterans attend a commemoration ceremony every year; The historic Ford Island PLANNING YOUR VISIT Aviation Tower still stands at Pearl Harbor. The Pearl Harbor Visitor Center should Strollers are permitted in the visitor center, be the first stop for visitors to the area. though are prohibited from the theaters and try. The Memorials are places of honor, gin daily at 8 a.m. and run through 1 p.m. Upon entry, visitors can receive any infor- memorial. Due to security measures, bags inspiration, reflection, and quiet contem- Other historical learning opportunities in mation they may need about planning their and other items that offer concealment are plation. Visitors are asked to assist in main- the area include the Battleship Missouri day at the historic site. Tickets to the me- not permitted, including: purses, handbags, taining an atmosphere of decorum. It is Memorial on Ford Island, the U.S.S. Bowfin morial and information can be obtained in backpacks, fanny packs, camera bags, dia- also important to consider attire: sandals Submarine Museum & Park and the Pacific the courtyard of the Visitor Center. per bags and luggage. Visitors can bring their are permissible, but bathing suits and pro- Aviation Museum. There are two world-class museums in wallets, cameras, phones and water. Storage fane T-shirts are prohibited. The U.S.S. Arizona Memorial at the the Visitor Center. The first educates the is available for bags at $3 each. The visitor center is open daily from 7 World War II Valor in the Pacific National visitor ot the events leading to WWII and Visitors to the Memorials are asked to a.m. until 5 p.m. It is closed on Thanksgiv- Monument is located at 1 Arizona Memo- the second focuses on the attack in De- remember that they are visiting a site of tre- ing, December 25 and New Year’s Day. The rial Place in Honolulu. For information, cember 7, 1941. The Remembrance Circle mendous loss of life in service to our coun- informational U.S.S. Arizona programs be- call (808) 422-3399 or visit nps.gov/valr.

50 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 51 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK PHOTOGRAPHY

The ecosystems of America’s national behavior so that you can be prepared for and state parks and public lands are among what it will do next. the most diverse on the planet—from the • The eyes have it. Capturing your sub- wetlands of the Everglades to the temperate ject’s eyes will lead the viewer into the pic- rain forests of Olympic National Park and ture and make your image more impactful. the deserts of Death Valley to the mountains Always keep the eyes in focus and try to of Yellowstone and Grand Tetons. For both place them in the power points (the inter- aspiring and experienced photographers, section of rule of third guidelines). the goal of any trip to a national park is to • Keep a safe distance. You’ll want to capture its endemic wildlife. keep a minimum of 25 yards between you Taking photographs of animals presents and your subject and more than 75 yards a unique set of challenges. Landscapes for larger predators. That means that you’ll cooperate; wildlife does not. Not only are need a big telephoto lens if you want to get animals likely to react to a photographer’s up close and personal. presence, but they are also driven by their • Shoot in burst mode. Instead of taking a own instincts and behavior, which can make single frame, increase the probability that capturing them difficult. The tips below will you’ll capture the behavior, head position help you compose better wildlife images of or angle by capturing multiple frames. all creatures great and small—from the bison • Be prepared. Wildlife, and particularly to the tiniest hummingbird and everything in birds, move quickly and without provoca- between. tion. Practice your panning skills to better • Use a tripod. If you are using a large tele- catch birds when they alight. photo lens, consider investing in a gimbal • Timing is everything. The best time to AD head, which will make it easier to track photograph wildlife is during the golden your subject. hours—at dusk and dawn—when the light • Know your subject. Before you take out is soft and less likely to cast harsh shad- your camera, understand your subject’s ows across your subject’s face. • Keep it simple. The easiest way to draw attention to your subject is to use a simple background. Use a shallow depth of field to blur any distracting backgrounds. JPecha/iStock • Aim for the action. Make your image more compelling by capturing your subject exhibiting its natural behavior—flying, hunting, eating or caring for young. The best way to take better photographs is to practice, and you don’t need to go far. Buy a bird feeder and build a studio in your Don’t miss your shot! Be aware backyard, where you’ll be able to create of your surroundings. your own version of A Star(ling) is Born.

52 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK JUST FOR KIDS JUST FOR KIDS

HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES HALEAKALĀ • Visit Thurston Lava Tube. Also known • Go sky-watching. Stop at one of the as Nāhuku, this tube formed centu- overlooks on the park road or take a short ries ago when a channelized lava flow walk away from the traffic noise to watch crusted over. The surrounding rainforest the clouds. In some places you can see as is rich with bird life and giant tree ferns far as 115 miles (185 km) out to sea. Even line the short trail to the lava tube. cloudy skies can offer amazing sights including rainbows, moonbows and halos • Take a hike. Stroll through the upland seen around your shadow. Remember to forest trail in Kīpukapuaulu. This easy bring your binoculars. trail is located right off Mauna Loa • Look for Whales. During the winter Road. Look and listen for the ‘apapane, months, humpback whales migrate Join SCA as we celebrate 60 YEARS OF SERVICE a red honeycreeper. through Hawaiian waters. You may be to national parks and empower young conservation able to spot them breaching from the leaders across America. • Visit Volcano House. Enjoy a porch of the Kīpahulu Visitor Center. Serve, give or learn more at THESCA.ORG wonderful view of Kīlauea Caldera and • Become a Junior Ranger. Kids 7 to 12 Halema‘uma‘u Crater from the telescope years old can ask at any visitor center right outside the Volcano House gift shop. about Haleakalā’s self-guided program. Enjoy unsurpassed birdwatching during • Ride and Roll. Take a vehicle-based the day and stargazing at night overlook- tour of the park that ends with a 23-mile ing the breathtaking Kilauea Caldera. downhill ride that starts outside of the part at 6,500 feet. Little, if any, pedaling • Become a Junior Ranger. The Junior is required. Ranger program is for children of all ages. Earn a badge by completing an activity booklet. Ask a park ranger or check at the Kīlauea Visitor Center or

Jaggar Museum for more information. yenwen/iStock

• Look into an erupting crater. Halema‘uma‘u, an active, erupting steaming crater within Kīlauea’s summit caldera, can be seen from the Jaggar Museum overlook, the Kīlauea Overlook and other locations in the park.

• Learn about volcanoes. The Nati onal Fish and Wildlife Foundati on Call (808) 985-6000 or visit volcano. protects and restores our nati on’s wildlife wr.usgs.gov to find out the latest infor- At Hawai’I Volcanoes, kids will feel like they’ve and habitats. Learn more at www.nfwf.org mation about volcanic eruptions. entered a world of adventure.

54 HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS | | HAWAI‘I’S NATIONAL PARKS 55 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK IF YOU ONLY HAVE A DAY

If you’ve only got a day to visit the parks, A “must” stop is the Thomas A. Jag- review these suggestions from park insid- gar Museum, located next to the Hawaiian ers to help make the most of your time. Volcano Observatory. The museum, established as a visitor center in 1987, is open HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES daily from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Although the The main feature of Hawai‘i Volcanoes observatory is closed to the public, the re- National Park is Crater Rim Drive. If you sults of its scientific studies are reflected in only have a few hours in the park, this is the volcano exhibits you will see at the mu- the trip for you. On the drive, you will see seum and elsewhere. sulphur and steam vents, a caldera and From the overlook at Jaggar Museum is pit craters, areas recovering from the cin- an incredible view of Halema‘uma‘u, the der fallout of the 1959 eruption and a walk- legendary home of Pele, the Hawaiian sa- through lava tube. Note: The southern cred earth person. Halema‘uma‘u is 3,000 portion of this drive (from past the Jag- feet (914 m) across and is now more than gar Museum to the intersection on Chain 280 feet (85 m) deep. The crater depth has of Craters Road) is closed due to volcanic varied over the years. In 1924, it was 1,200 hazards. feet (366 m) deep, but eruptions since then, most recently in 1974, 1982, and 2008 (ongoing since then) have covered the floor with lava decreasing its depth. FUN FACTS HALEAKALĀ There are a variety of park programs of- Q. WHAT´S A AD GOOD WAY TO fered every day at Haleakalā. When you SEE KĪLAUEA arrive, stop by Park Headquarters Visitor VOLCANO IF Center to get the program schedule. I ONLY HAVE A Take a short hike to observe the varied FEW HOURS? landscapes of the park. See the “Walking & Hiking” chapter for some great day hike You can explore the summit of A. ideas. You can also do some bird watching Kīlauea Volcano using the Crater Rim Drive, which takes about at Hosmer Grove, on the 30-minute nature an hour. It is a road that offers loop trail, where you can observe native panoramic views of Kīlauea Caldera, birds such as the i‘iwi, ‘apapane, ‘amakihi, WSD-F20 passes through lush tropical and if you’re very lucky, an ‘akohekohe. *1 Original Casio criteri *2 •Drop: Tested in conformance with MIL-STD-810G Method 516.7 Procedure IV. •Random Vibration: Tested in conformance with MIL-STD-810G Method 514.7 Procedure I. •Humidity: Tested in rainforest, and provides access to One of Haleakalā’s best-kept secrets is conformance with MIL-STD-810G Method 507.6 Procedure II. •Solar-Radiation: Tested in conformance with MIL-STD-810G Method 505.6 Procedure II. •Non-Operating Altitude: Tested in conformance with MIL-STD-810G Method 500.6 Procedure I. •Operating Altitude: Tested in conformance with MIL-STD-810G Method500.6ProcedureII. •Non-Operating High Temperature: Tested in conformance with MIL-STD-810G Method 501.6 Procedure I well-marked scenic stops and walks. its , which can be just as spectacu- •Non-Operating Low Temperature: Tested in conformance with MIL-STD-810G Method 502.6 Procedure I. •Temperature Shock: Tested in conformance with MIL-STD-810G Method 503.6 Procedure I-C. •Icing Freezing Rain: sunset Tested in conformance with MIL-STD-810G Method 521.4 Procedure I. (The performance of this instrument has been confirmed under various test environments, but its operation in actual use is not guaranteed for every environment. Freedom from breakage or failure can also not be guaranteed.) •This product conforms to the JIS C 61000-3-2 harmonic electrical current standard. •This product is in conformity with or certified to the Radio Law, lar, if not even better, than sunrise. The park Telecommunications Business Law and VCCI. •The screen design shown is correct at the time of development. Actual design may vary. •The final specifications may differ from those shown. *Bluetooth® and Bluetooth SIG are registered trademarks. *Wi-Fi are Wi-Fi Alliance registered trademarks. *Android, Android Wear and other terms are trademarks of Google Inc. *Other service and product names are, in general, trademarks or registered trademarks For answers to all your questions, entrance and the bathrooms are open 24 of the companies concerned. go to OhRanger.com hours a day and there’s the added bonus of not having to wake up early in the morning. protrek.casio.com

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