Anna Gustafsson Phd Thesis
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WORKING TOWARDS “A PRODUCTION OF WELL-BEING”: AN ETHNOGRAPHY ON CRAFTSMANSHIP AMONG THE LULESÁMI IN NORWAY ANNA GUSTAFSSON A Thesis Submitted for the Degree of PhD at the University of St Andrews 2014 Full metadata for this item is available in Research@StAndrews:FullText at: http://research-repository.st-andrews.ac.uk/ Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://hdl.handle.net/10023/6538 This item is protected by original copyright This item is licensed under a Creative Commons Licence WORKING TOWARDS “A PRODUCTION OF WELL-BEING”: AN ETHNOGRAPHY ON CRAFTSMANSHIP AMONG THE LULESÁMI IN NORWAY Anna Gustafsson This thesis is submitted in partial fulfilment for the degree of MPhil/PhD at the University of St Andrews April, 2014 Working Towards “A Production of Well-being”: An Ethnography on Craftsmanship among the Lulesámi in Norway Anna Gustafsson A Thesis Submitted for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of Social Anthropology University of St Andrews April, 2014 1. Candidate’s declarations: I, Anna Gustafsson, hereby certify that this thesis, which is approximately 75,000 words in length, has been written by me, that it is the record of work carried out by me and that it has not been submitted in any previous application for a higher degree. I was admitted as a research student in September, 2009 and as a candidate for the degree of PhD in Social Anthropology in September 2009; the higher study for which this is a record was carried out in the University of St Andrews between 2009 and 2014. I, Anna Gustafsson, received assistance in the writing of this thesis in respect of grammar, which was provided by Paul Valentine, Jonathan Alderman, Piotr Jednaszewski and Karolina Kuberska. Date 21/04/14 signature of candidate 2. Supervisor’s declaration: I hereby certify that the candidate has fulfilled the conditions of the Resolution and Regulations appropriate for the degree of PhD in Social Anthropology in the University of St Andrews and that the candidate is qualified to submit this thesis in application for that degree. Date 21/04/14 signature of supervisor 3. Permission for electronic publication: (to be signed by both candidate and supervisor) In submitting this thesis to the University of St Andrews I understand that I am giving permission for it to be made available for use in accordance with the regulations of the University Library for the time being in force, subject to any copyright vested in the work not being affected thereby. I also understand that the title and the abstract will be published, and that a copy of the work may be made and supplied to any bona fide library or research worker, that my thesis will be electronically accessible for personal or research use unless exempt by award of an embargo as requested below, and that the library has the right to migrate my thesis into new electronic forms as required to ensure continued access to the thesis. I have obtained any third-party copyright permissions that may be required in order to allow such access and migration, or have requested the appropriate embargo below. The following is an agreed request by candidate and supervisor regarding the electronic publication of this thesis: (i) Access to printed copy and electronic publication of thesis through the University of St Andrews. Date 21/04/14 signature of candidate signature of supervisor Abstract This thesis is an ethnographic study of craftsmanship among the Lulesámi in Northern Norway. The study, which is based on an apprentice-style methodology, focuses in particular on the role and significance of making and wearing the gáppte, a characteristic Sámi dress. While the gáppte is often employed to visually define and distinguish the Sámi in relation to other people, my aim is to move beyond such a common interpretation and unfold the garment’s everyday aspects and explore how its production and use are interwoven with the Lulesámi’s emphasis and ongoing creation of personal and social well-being. The chapters address, in their different ways, the three main themes of this study. The first is concerned with the various ways in which the gáppte and its use affect people’s sense of self and relations to others, and the factors influencing such diverse experiences. The second theme focuses on how the learning to make the garment, rather than involving a fixed set of skills, is based on an ongoing practical and sensuous engagement with the world. I demonstrate that novices not only learn the technical skills of producing a garment to be worn, but that they are also encouraged to develop certain social skills and virtues for living a good life. The third theme is constituted by an examination of the productive activities within the domestic sphere, which often go unnoticed as they cannot easily be seen or measured through tangible evidence, but which affirm and strengthen the making of a convivial society. Through the analysis I draw and build on current anthropological debates on material culture by showing how craftsmanship is a self-transforming experience which encompasses a complete way of being, traversing and merging immaterial and material realms of life. I also wish to contribute to feminist debates by drawing attention to how the ‘personal’ and ‘domestic’ are intimately intertwined with larger historical, political and social processes. for my father, Lars Gustavsson (1941-2002), who with love and humbleness showed me how beautiful the world is. The Sámi? Who are they? They’re the people who demonstrate against the state’s reindeer-tending laws. Now, we also need to open the door towards the treasure of songs, poetry and handicraft that are just as important a part of who we are as the reindeer. Said by an elder Lulesámi man Table of Contents PREFACE Direction Divtasvuodna ............................................................................................. 10 A Note on Language ................................................................................................................. 17 Personal Names ................................................................................................................................. 18 Place Names ...................................................................................................................................... 18 The Sámi ............................................................................................................................................ 19 1. Setting the Scene .................................................................................................................. 20 The Setting ......................................................................................................................................... 20 Starting Out ....................................................................................................................................... 22 The Ethnographic Focus .................................................................................................................... 24 Considering the Gáppte ..................................................................................................................... 26 Situating Visions ................................................................................................................................ 31 A Double-edged Sword ...................................................................................................................... 33 The On-going Making of a Convivial Life ........................................................................................... 39 Women and the Domestic................................................................................................................. 43 Chapter Outlines................................................................................................................................ 47 2. The Crafting of Fieldwork ..................................................................................................... 49 On Apprenticeship as Methodology .................................................................................................. 49 Being a Part of Local Research History .............................................................................................. 52 An Apprenticeship for Life ................................................................................................................. 57 3. Introducing the Divtasvuodna-gáppte ................................................................................. 61 The Divtasvuodna-gáppte ................................................................................................................. 62 1 The Gáppte .................................................................................................................................... 63 The Sliehppá .................................................................................................................................. 68 The Avve ........................................................................................................................................ 68 The Gahper .................................................................................................................................... 71 The Gábmaga ................................................................................................................................. 72 The Vuoddaga ...............................................................................................................................