Behind the Scenes
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Behind the Scenes
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Babayev, Tahmina Jafarova, Ilqar Ağayev, Nick OUR READERS Thomson, Shayl Majithia, Chris Jackson, Shani Many thanks to the travellers who used the and Dave Bakstrom, Anna and Ollof, Andreas, last edition and wrote to us with helpful Artur, Stephen and so many others. At Lonely hints, useful advice and interesting anec- Planet many thanks to a fine team including dotes: Kristin Odijk, Helen Elfer, Valentina Kremen- A Alan Graham, Aliyev Kanan, Amy Singer, chutskaya and stalwart fellow writers John, Antal Szabolcs, Astrid van Wintershoven B Virginia and Tom. Barney Smith, Bernd Zimmermann, Birgit Karle, Brigitte Schumann C Claas Morlang D Tom Masters Daniel Scovenna, David Devine E Edo Berger Thanks to Susanna Petrosyan for her & Nina Willemse, Edward Eve, Elisabetta invaluable help before, during and after my Bonino F Florian Timmermann, Francesco trip. Thanks also to Saro Sarosyan, Virginia Cisternino J Jacqueline Appleby, Janet Croft, Maxwell and Helen Elfer for their advice and Jillana Krause, Jiri Preclik K Katie Crysdale, assistance. Kato Hansen, Kent Kuran L Lidwien Verweij Virginia Maxwell M Matthew Ruszala, Michael Garrood, Michele Beraldo N Nancy Metashvili, Nickos Yoldassis Greatest thanks go to my travelling compan- P Peter Francev S Sain Alizada, Seda Mel- ions, Peter and Max Handsaker, my destination kumyan, Svetlana Kasaeva T Thomas Mayer, editor, Helen Elfer, and my co-authors John Thomas Sarosy, Tom Wyss W Wieland Ulrichs Noble, Alex Jones and Tom Masters. Thanks X Xavier Alcober Y Yuri Victorovich Z Zuzana also to Arpine Yesayan, Lusine Melqonyan, Orsagova Artush Davtyan and Armine Kalashyan. John Noble WRITER THANKS Thanks to so many in Georgia but especially, Dustin Gilbreath, Hans Gutbrod, William Alex Jones Dunbar, Giorgi Gardava, Geostat (National Çox Sağol to Kate Hunt, Ian Peart and family, Statistics Office of Georgia), Gulnasi Miqe- Cavid Qara, Afgan Mehdikhanov, Rustam ladze and Nazim and Sofia Ghoghoberidze, Rustamov, Mevlud, Zahid and Khaled Azizov, Giorgi Giorgadze, Ira Hartmann, Tiniko Ididze, Francesco Ricapito, Sabina Qazimova, Vamiq Regina Jegorova-Askerova, Dodo Kevlishvili,
Naomi Bruce Evans Bruce Mazzy Gemma Graham, Gemma Graham, Andi Jones, Kate Kate Jones, Andi Thanks to Victoria James Hardy, Harrison, Mathews, Catherine Naghten, Karyn Kirsten Noble, Tinson, Angela Rawlings, Laura Wellicome Book Designer Designer Book Prinsep Assisting Editor Researcher Cover Parker
Helen Elizabeth ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from adapted data map Climate ‘Up- (2007) TA & McMahon BL Finlayson the Köppen-Geiger of Map World dated Earth and Hydrology Classification’, Climate 1633–44. 11, Sciences, System in the Svaneti Mt Ushba photograph: Cover © Alamy / Timashov Yevgen Georgia. region,
Jones, Amanda Williamson Amanda Jones, Coordinating Editor Kristin Odijk CartographerSenior Kremenchutskaya Valentina Noble and Danielle Systermans. Noble and Danielle Systermans. Destination Editor Elfer Product Editors was researched researched was Georgia, Armenia Armenia and Georgia,
The previous two editions were were editions two previous The written by John Michael Kohn, and and John with Noble, William writer. a contributing Dunbar Azerbaijan and written Jones, Alex by Virginia Maxwell Masters, Tom This This 5th edition of Lonely Planet’s THIS BOOK Demetrashvili, and not least my super- my least and not Demetrashvili, Alex, co-authors always-helpful talented, and Tom. Virginia Roza Shukvani and Vitia Chartolani, Saša Saša Chartolani, Vitia and Shukvani Roza and Giorgi Paniashvili Irakli and Simona, Kodric, Dmitry Lemeshev, Cally and Rohan and Rohan Cally Lemeshev, Dmitry Kodric, all the Rukhadzes, Luashvili, David Lienert, Darejan Khetaguri and Vakho, Robert Robert Vakho, and Khetaguri Darejan
BEHIND THE SCENES 312 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 313
Index
ABBREVIATIONS amusement parks Armenia 28, 126-96 around Tbilisi (G) 57-63, 57 Ar – Armenia Mtatsminda Park (G) 43 accommodation 126, 193-4 around Yerevan (Ar) Az – Azerbaijan Qabaland (Az) 237 activities 194 149-53, 150 G – Georgia Ananuri (G) 88, 18 architecture 287-8 art 19 NK – Nagorno-Karabakh animals 285-6 around Yerevan 149-53, 150 art galleries, see museums archaeological sites arts 137, 190-1 & galleries Armaztsikhe-Bagineti budgeting 128 Art-Gene Festival (G) 22, 45 A (G) 58-9 business hours 194 arts Abkhazia (G) 70-5 Erebuni Historical & climate 126 Armenia 190-1 Abşeron Peninsula (Az) Archaeological Azerbaijan 258-9 224-6, consulates 195 225 Museum-Reserve Georgia 118-20 accommodation 290, see customs regulations 194-5 (Ar) 139 Ashtarak (Ar) 153 also individual countries drinks 191-3 Fazıl Labarynth (Az) 242 Astara (Az) 255 Armenian language 306 economics 186-7, 276 Medieval Market Square Azerbaijan 28, 197-264 Azeri language 307 (Az) 202 embassies 195 accommodation 197, Georgian language 308 emergencies 128 shoe, world’s oldest 176 261-2 Russian language 304 exchange rates 128 Tigranakert (NK) 272 activities 262 activities 20-4, 123, 194, food 126, 152, 191-3 Uplistsikhe (G) 61-2 architecture 288 262, see also individual Vani (G) 69 highlights 127, 127 activities, locations around Baku 224-7, 225 architectural sites history 187-90 Adjara (G) 75-82 arts 258-9 Abanotubani (G) 37 internet resources 128 adventure sports Baku (Bakı) 9, 16 200-24, Baku Eye (Az) 209 language 194, 128, 187, Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) 202, 204-5, 208, 2, 9 Bottle House (Az) 248 305-6 (G) 90-1 budgeting 200 Çirax Qala (Az) 229 maps 195 Tbilisi (G) 45 business hours 262 City Hall (Gəncə) (Az) 248 media 195 air travel 296-7, 299 central Azerbaijan 247-50 Crescent Moon Building money 128, 195 airlines 296-7 climate 197 (Az) 207 northern Armenia 153-74, airports 15, 296 consulates 262-3 Crystal Hall (Az) 209 154-5 Batumi International customs regulations 262 Diljan Historic Centre politics 186-7, 276 Airport (G) 81 drinks 259-61 (Ar) 167 postal services 195 David the Builder Kutaisi economics 255-6, 277 Dom Soviet (Az) 207 public holidays 195 International Airport embassies 262-3 Flagmast (Az) 208 relations with Turkey 187 (G) 66 emergencies 200 Flame Towers (Az) 211, 2 safe travel 195 Gəncə Airport (Az) 296 exchange rates 200 Gəncə Darvazası (Az) 249 smoking 196 Heydar Әliyev food 197, 259-61 International Airport Heydar Әliyev Cultural southern Armenia (Az) 221 Centre (Az) 9, 211, 9 174-86, 174 highlights 198-9, 198-9 Tbilisi International Lighthouse Tower (Az) 251 telephone services 196 history 256-8 Airport (G) 296 Maiden’s Tower (Az) 201 tourist information 196 internet resources 200, 218 Zvartnots Airport (Ar) 147 Old Gabala (Az) 238 travel seasons 126 language 200, 201, 201, Akhaltsikhe (G) 113-14 Parliament Building (G) 65 travel to/from 15 263, 306-7 Akhtala (Ar) 165-6 Public Service Hall (G) 43 travel within 15 money 200, 263 Alaverdi (Ar) 164 Sighnaghi walls (G) 105 visas 128, 196 Naxçivan 255 Stalin’s Prison (Az) 250 Yerevan 12, 128-48, 130-1, northern Azerbaijan 134-5, 13 Xəzər Stadium (Az) 251 227-34, 228 Armenian genocide 138-9, architecture 16, 18, 287-8 northwestern Azerbaijan Map Pages 000 187, 188 area codes 15 234-47, 228 Photo Pages 000 around Baku (Az) 224-7, 225 Areni (Ar) 175-6 politics 255-6, 277 314 Azerbaijan continued bus travel 300 Xan Sarayı (Az) 239 Surp Astvatsatsin public holidays 263 business hours Zaqatala Fortress (Az) Church (Ar) 175 southern Azerbaijan Armenia 194 244 Surp Grigor Lusavorich 250-5, 251 Azerbaijan 262 cave cities Cathedral (Ar) 138 telephone services 263 Georgia 123 Uplistsikhe (G) 61-3 Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (G) 57-8 tourist information 263 Byurakan & around (Ar) Vardzia (G) 114-15
INDEX INDEX Tsminda Sameba travel seasons 197 154-5 cave monasteries, see Cathedral (G) 42 travel to/from 15 also monasteries Tsminda Sameba Church travel within 15 Davit Gareja (G) 11, C (G) 12, 92, 12
A- 106-8, 11 visas 200, 263-4 cable cars 16 Vankasar Church (NK)
(D Udabno Monastery (G Batumi (G) 77 106-7 272 B Borjomi (G) 110 Vanis Qvabebi Monastery Zvartnots Cathedral Baku (Bakı) (Az) 9, 16 Qәbәlә (Az) 237 (G) 114 (Ar) 151 200-24, 202, 204-5, Tatev (Ar) 185 caves cinema 276 208, 2, 9 Tbilisi (G) 39 Azokh Cave (NK) 271-2 Armenia 190-1 accommodation 212-14 canyons Hartashen (Ar) 184 Azerbaijan 258 activities 212 Intsra Ravine (G) 71 Khndzoresk (Ar) 184 Georgia 119-20 around Baku 224-7, 225 Martvili (G) 71 Novy Afon (G) 74 citadels, see castles, fortresses & palaces drinking & nightlife Okatse (G) 69 Old Goris (Ar) 183 climate 14, 20-4, 291, , 217-18 Car (Az) 244 Prometheus Cave (G) 68 14 entertainment 218-19 see also individual car travel 298, 300-1 Sataplia Nature Reserve regions festivals & events 212 (G) 68 caravanserai 11, 11 Armenia 126 food 214-17 Tegh (Ar) 184 Şəki (Az) 239 Azerbaijan 197 history 200-1 Cek (Az) 233 Selim Pass (Ar) 180 Georgia 30 metro 223, 223 cell phones 14, 293-4, see carpet factories Nagorno-Karabakh 265 shopping 219-20 also individual regions Azər-İlmə (Az) 211 climbing, see sights 201-11 cemeteries Qadim Quba (Az) 231 mountaineering tourist information 220-1 Fəxri Xiyaban (Az) 211 castles, fortresses & consulates travel to/from 221-3 Şahidlər Xiyabani palaces Armenia 195 travel within 223-5 (Az) 211 Amberd Fortress (Ar) Azerbaijan 262-3 154-5 central Azerbaijan 247-50 walking tour 210, 210 Georgia 123 Bakuriani (G) 112-13 Ananuri (G) 88, 18 children, travelling with 290-1, 303 cultural centres Balakən (Az) 247 Batonistsikhe Castle (G) churches & cathedrals American Corner (Ar) 146 bathhouses 99-100 Akhtala Church (Ar) Heydar Әliyev Cultural Tazəbəy Hamamı (Az) Chavchavadze Estate 165-6 Centre (Az) 9, 211, 9 207 (G) 103 Alaverdi Cathedral (G) Heydar Әliyev Mərkəzi Tbilisi (G) 45 Çirax Qala (Az) 229 102-3 (Az) 251 bathrooms 294 Dili Qala (Az) 239 Anchiskhati Basilica culture 276-7, 283-4 Gonio Apsaros Fortress Batumi (G) 76-82, 78 (G) 37 curiosities 19 (G) 82 Becho (G) 87 Armenian Cathedral of Ateşgah (Az) 233 Gori Fortress (G) 60 Biləsuvar (Az) 250 St George (G) 36 dinosaur footprints Gremi Fortress (G) 103 birdwatching 107, 123, Ateni Sioni (G) 62-3 (G) 68 Khertvisi Fortress (G) 114 194, 286 Bagrati Cathedral (G) 64 mud volcanoes (Az) 19, Lori Berd (Ar) 159-60 boat travel 299 Church of the 226-7, 18 books 119, 258, 276 Mardakan Castle (Az) Assumption (G) 114-15 Xaçmaz (Az) 233 225 history 278, 279 Ghazanchetsots Yanar Bulağ (Az) 255 Mayraberd Fortess politics 281 Cathedral (NK) 271 Yanar Dağ (Az) 226 (NK) 272 border crossings 16, 300, Jvari Church (G) 58 Zorats Karer (Ar) 181 Narikala Fortress (G) 37 see also individual Jvaris Mama Church currencies 14, see also Nokalakevi (G) 71 regions (G) 36 individual countries Palace of the Borjomi (G) 109-11 Katoghike (Ar) 132-3 customs regulations Shirvanshahs (Az) 202 Borjomi-Kharagauli Kiş Albanian Church (Az) Armenia 194-5 National Park (G) 111-12 Rabati Castle (G) 113 239, 241 Azerbaijan 262 budgeting 15, see also Ramana Fortress (Az) Metekhi Church (G) 39 226 individual regions Samtavro Church (G) 58 Salkhino (G) 71 Sioni Cathedral (G) 36-7 D Shushi Fortress (NK) 270 Sisavan Church (Ar) 181 Davit Gareja (G) 10, Map Pages Tmogvi Castle (G) 114 106-8, 11 000 St Astvatsatsin Church Photo Pages 000 Winter Palace (Az) 239 (Ar) 163-4 Debed Canyon (Ar) 162-6 315 Dilijan (Ar) 166-8 Baku Jazz Festival Udabno Monastery (G) Georgian Military disabilities, travellers (Az) 212 106-7 Highway (G) 88-93, 89 with 294 Black Sea Jazz Festival Vardzia (G) 114-15 Gəncə (Az) 16, 247-50, 248 discount cards 292 (G) 77 funicular railways 16 Gəncəvi, Nizami 248 distilleries 139 Caspian Oil & Gas Show Baku (Bakı) (Az) 223-4 Golden Fleece 67 (Az) 212 drinking 16, 144, see also Tbilisi (G) 43 golfing 231
Gabala International INDEX individual locations Gori (G) 59-61 Russian language 304-5 Music Festival (Az) 237 G Goris (Ar) 182-4, 182 drinks, see oghee, wine, Goshavank (Ar) 169 individual locations Golden Apricot Yerevan Gabala International International Film Music Festival (Az) Göygöl (Az) 249 D-H Armenia 192-3 Festival (Ar) 140 22, 237 Great Caucasus (G) 82-99 Azerbaijan 260-1 rtveli (grape harvest) Gagra (G) 75 Gudauri (G) 88-90 Georgia 121-2 (G) 99 galleries, see museums & Gyumri (Ar) 156-8, 156 Dsegh (Ar) 163 Shatiloba (G) 94 galleries Durca (Az) 237 Tbilisi International gay travellers 291-2 Dzoraget (Ar) 163 Festival of Theatre geography 285-6 H (G) 45-6 Georgia 27, 30-125 Haghartsin (Ar) 169 Tbilisi International Film Abkhazia 70-5 Haghpat (Ar) 165 E Festival (G) 46 health 302-3 economics 276-7 accommodation 30, 122-3 Tbilisoba (G) 45-6 Heydar Әliyev Cultural electricity 291 activities 123 Tushetoba (G) 97 Centre (Az) 9, 211, 9 Әlət (Az) 226-7 Adjara 75-82 Vardavar (Ar) 140 High Fest (Ar) 24 embassies architecture 287-8 Yerevan (Ar) 140 hiking 17, 286, 2 Armenia 195 around Tbilisi 57-63, 57 Yerevan Jazz Fest (Ar) 140 Borjomi-Kharagauli Azerbaijan 262-3 arts 118-20 film 276 National Park (G) Georgia 123 budgeting 31 Armenia 190-1 111-12 emergencies 15 business hours 123 Azerbaijan 258 Dilijan (Ar) 167, 168 Armenia 128, 306 climate 30 Georgia 119-20 Gergeti Glacier (G) 93 Azerbaijan 200, 307 consulates 123 Flame Towers (Az) 211, 2 Janapar Trail (NK) 272 Georgia 31, 308 drinks 120-2 food 86, 152, see also Kəlvəz Road (Az) 254 economics 276-7 Russian language 305 individual dishes, Lagodekhi Protected environment 285-6 locations embassies 123 Areas (G) 108-9 ethnographic museums, Armenian menu emergencies 31 Lahıc (Az) 235-6 see also museums & decoder 192 exchange rates 31 Mestia–Ushguli Trek galleries Azeri menu food 30, 86, 120-2 (G) 88 Open-Air Museum of decoder 260 Great Caucasus 82-99 Mt Aragats (Ar) 155 Ethnography (G) Georgian menu highlights 32-3, Mt Chaukhi (G) 93 43, 45 32-3 decoder 122 history 116-18 Qalay Xudat (Az) 233 Qala Ethnographic Russian language 304-5 Museum Complex (Az) internet resources 31 Svaneti (G) 84, 87 fortresses, see castles, 224-5 Kakheti 99-109, 99 Transcaucasian Trail fortresses & palaces Sardarapat (Ar) 153 language 31, 125, 307-8 (G) 96 frescoes 119 Svaneti History & maps 123 Tusheti (G) 96-7 Akhtala Church (Ar) Ethnography Museum Xan Yaylağı (Az) 241 165-6 money 31, 123-4 (G) 83-4 Zaqatala (Az) 245 Alaverdi Cathedral (G) politics 115-16, 276-7 Ushguli Ethnographic historic buildings, see 102-3 public holidays 124 Museum (G) 86 architectural sites Ananuri Fortress (G) 88 relations with Russia events, see festivals & 115-16 history 278-82, see also events Ateni Sioni (G) 62-3 individual regions religion 116 exchange rates Davit Gareja (G) 10, Armenia 187-90 Samtskhe-Javakheti Armenia 128 106-7, 11 Azerbaijan 256-8 109-15, 109 Azerbaijan 200 Gelati Monastery (G) Georgia 116-18 67-8 Tbilisi 9, 31-56, 34-5, Nargorno-Karabakh Georgia 31 38, 40-1, 8-9 Gremi Fortress (G) 103 273-4 telephone services 124 Harichavank Monastery hitching 301 (Ar) 159 tourist information 124 F horse riding 17, 286 ferry travel 16, 299 Hovhannavank (Ar) 154 travel seasons 30 Borjomi-Kharagauli festivals & events 20-4, Lavra Monastery 106 travel to/from 15 National Park (G) 294, 23 Mother See of Holy travel within 15 111-12 Art-Gene Festival (G) 45 Echmiadzin (Ar) 151 visas 31, 124-5 Sighnaghi (G) 105 Atnigenoba (G) 97 Sapara Monastery western Georgia Tusheti (G) 96-7 Baku (Bakı) (Az) 212 (G) 114 63-70, 63 316 I Georgian 31, 125, 307-8 Bgheno-Noravank Hacı Cəfər Məscid (Az) Ijevan (Ar) 169-71 Nagorno-Karabakh 267 Monastery (Ar) 184 229 İlisu (Az) 243-4 Russian 304-5 Bodbe Convent (G) 106 Ortajame Mosque (G) 77 insurance 292, 302 Laza (Az) 234 Dadivank Monastery Sinıq Qala Mosque (NK) 272-3 (az) 203 internet access 292 legal matters 292 Davit Gareja (G) 106-8 mountaineering 286 internet resources 15 Lerik (Az) 254
INDEX INDEX Gandzasar Monastery Kazbegi (Stepants- Armenia 128 lesbian travellers 291-2 (NK) 272 minda) (G) 90-1 Azerbaijan 200 Lənkəran (Az) 250-3 Geghard Monastery Mt Kazbek (G) 94 Georgia 31 Lənkəran (Az) 252 (Ar) 149, 151 Shahdag National Park I-M Nagorno-Karabakh 267 literature 276, 278, 279, Gelati Monastery (Az) 227 281, see also individual itineraries 25-6, 25, 26, (G) 67-8 regions Ushba (G) 87 see also walking tours Haghartsin Monastery mountains Yerevan 129 Azerbaijan 258 (Ar) 169 Georgia 119 Babadağ (Az) 236 Haghpat (Ar) 165 Beşbarmaq Dağ (Az) Harichavank (Ar) 159 J 227, 229 Jason & the Argonauts 67 M Hayravank Monastery Candycane Mountains (Ar) 172-3 Jermuk (Ar) 179-80 maps 292-3 (Az) 227 Mardiganian, Aurora 140 Hnevank (Ar) 160 Great Caucasus (G) markets Hovhannavank (Ar) 154 82-99 K Dry Bridge Market (G) Ikalto Monastery (G) 102 Mt Aragats (Ar) 155 Kakheti (G) 99-109, 99 52-3 Khor Virap Monastery Mt Chaukhi (G) 93 Kakheti Grape Harvest G.U.M Market (Ar) 138 (Ar) 175, 5 Mt Kazbek (G) 94, 12 (G) 23 Kutaisi Market (G) 65 Lavra Monastery (G) 106 Şahdağ (Az) 233 Kapan (Ar) 185-6 Lənkəran Bazaar (Az) Makaravank Monastery Talysh Mountains (Az) Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) 250 (Ar) 170 253-5 (G) 12, 90-2, 12 Shuka (Ar) 157 Marmashen (Ar) 158-9 Ughtasar (Ar) 181-2 Kelbajar (NK) 273 Stepanakert Bazaar Mother See of Holy Ushba (G) 87 khachapuri 49 (NK) 269 Echmiadzin (Ar) 151-3 Mt Aragats (Ar) 155 khachkars 138 Tbilisi (G) 50 Motsameta Monastery Mt Chaukhi (G) 93 (G) 68 Khevsureti (G) 93-5, 95 Telavi Bazari (G) 102 Mt Kazbek (G) 94, 12 khinkali 120 Təzə Bazaar (Az) 242 Nekresi Monastery (G) 103 Mtskheta (G) 57-9, 58 Khor Virap Monastery (Ar) Vernissage Market mud volcanoes (Az) 19, 175, 5 (Ar) 146 Otsindale Monastery (G) 71 226-7, 18 Kobayr (Ar) 163 Martvili (G) 71 Saghmosavank (Ar) 154 museums & galleries, Komitas 189 measures 292 Sanahin Monastery (Ar) see also ethnographic medical services 302 koshkebi 10, 10 164-5 museums Meghri (Ar) 186 Kutaisi (G) 16, 63-7, 64 Sapara Monastery Abkhazian State memorials (G) 114 Museum (G) 73 Armenian Genocide Absheron Gallery (Az) L Sevanavank Monastery Memorial & Museum (Ar) 171-2 207 Lagodekhi Protected Areas (Ar) 138-9 Spitakavor Monastery Adjara Arts Museum (G) 108-9 khachkars 138 (G) 77 Lahıc (Az) 235-7 (Ar) 178 Quba 1918 Genocide Surp Gevorg (Ar) 153-4 Ali Şamsir’s Studio Lake Sevan (Ar) 171-2, 172 Memorial Complex (Az) 203 Tanahati Monastery lakes (Az) 229 (Ar) 178 Art Gallery & Museum of Abudelauri Lakes (G) 93 Şahidlər Xiyabani Dilijan (Ar) 166-7 money 14, 15, 293 Lake Sevan (Ar) 171-2, (Az) 211 Artsakh State Museum Armenia 195 172 Sardarapat (Ar) 153 (NK) 267 Azerbaijan 263 Oreti Lake (G) 96 Mestia (G) 83-6 Bakı Gallery (Az) 207 Georgia 123-4 Ritsa (G) 74-5 Mərdəkən (Az) 225-6 Borjomi Museum of mosques Tobavarchkhili (G) 71 mineral springs Local Lore (G) 110 Ahmadiyya Mosque languages 14 Borjomi (G) 110 Carpet Museum (Az) (G) 113 207-8 Armenian 128, 187, 194, Jermuk (Ar) 179-80 Bibi-Heybət Mosque (Az) 305-6 Carpet Museum (NK) 271 mobile phones 14, 293-4, 211-12 Azeri 200, 201, 263, see also individual Centenarians Museum Blue Mosque (Ar) 137 306-7 regions (Az) 254 Cümə Məscid (Az) 229 monasteries, see also cave Center of Contemporary monasteries 11, 11 Cumә Mosque (Az) 203 Art (Az) 207 Map Pages 000 Amaras Monastery Cümә Mosque (Gəncə; Centre of Popular Photo Pages 000 (NK) 271 Az) 248 Creation (Ar) 132 317 Dadiani Museum (G) 69 Sisian History Museum gardens planning Historical Museum (Ar) 181 Borjomi-Kharagauli Armenia 28 (Az) 206 Stalin Museum (G) National Park (G) 111-12 Azerbaijan 28 History Museum of 59-60 Lagodekhi Protected basics 14-15 Armenia (Ar) 133 State Art Museum Areas (G) 108-9 budgeting 14-15 (Az) 207 Hovhannes Tumanyan Sataplia Nature calendar of events 20-4
Museum (Ar) 133 Stepan Shahumian Reserve (G) 68 INDEX climate 14, 20-4 İçәri Şәhәr Archaeologi- Museum (Ar) 159 Sev Lich Nature cal Museum (Az) 203 Stepantsminda Histori- Reserve (Ar) 184 Georgia 27 Kiçik Qalart (Az) 207 cal Museum (G) 90 Shahdag National internet resources 15 M-S Kutaisi Historical Tahir Salahov Museum Park (Az) 227 itineraries 25-6, 25, 26 (Az) 207 Nagorno-Karabakh 28 Museum (G) 65 Shikahogh Nature Lahıc History Museum Tbilisi History Museum Reserve (Ar) 184 repeat visitors 16 (Az) 235 (G) 36 Vashlovani Protected transport 296-301 Martiros Sarian Museum Vanadzor Museum of Areas (G) 107 travel seasons 14, 20-4 (Ar) 133 Fine Arts (Ar) 161 natural phenomena Pokr Vedi (Khor Virap) Matenadaran (Ar) 131-2 War Museum (G) 60 dinosaur footprints (Ar) 175 Mikoyan Museum (Ar) Yarat Contemporary Art (G) 68 politics 276-7 165 Centre (Az) 209 mud volcanoes (Az) 19, public conveniences 294 MIM (Az) 211 Yeghegnadzor Regional 226-7, 18 public holidays Modern Art Museum of Museum of Vayots Naxçivan (Az) 255 Dzor (Ar) 177 Armenia 195 Yerevan(Ar) 137 Noravank (Ar) 176 Yervand Kochar Museum Azerbaijan 263 Mother Armenia Military northeast Karabakh (NK) (Ar) 132 Georgia 124 Museum (Ar) 129, 131 272 Zaqatala Historical Museum Centre (Az) northern Armenia 153-74, Museum (Az) 244 206-7 154-5 Q Zurab Tsereteli Museum Museum of Axel northern Azerbaijan Qala (Az) 224-5 of Modern Art (G) 43 Bakounts (Ar) 183 227-34, 228 Qax (Az) 243-4 music Museum of Fallen northwestern Azerbaijan Qəbələ (Az) 237-8 Soldiers (NK) 267 Armenia 190-1 234-47, 228 Qobustan (Az) 226, 18 Azerbaijan 258 Museum of Fine Arts northwest Karabakh (NK) Quba (Az) 13, 229-32, (G) 42-3 272-3 230, 13 Museum of Georgia Novy Afon (G) 74 (G) 43 N Nagorno-Karabakh Museum of Gladzor 28, 265-74 R University (Ar) 178 O Ramana (Az) 226 accommodation 265, 274 Museum of National observatories 155 religion 277, 284, see budgeting 267 Architecture and Odzun (Ar) 163-4 also individual regions climate 265 Urban Life of Gyumri oghee 192 religious sites 17 (Ar) 157 food 274 Okatse Canyon (G) 69 Roshka (G) 93-4 Museum of the Aslama- highlights 266, 266 Old Towns rtveli 99 zyan Sisters (Ar) 157 historic sites 265 Baku (Bakı) 201-3, 208 Russia, relations with 276 National Gallery (G) 43 history 273-4 Shatili (G) 94 Russian language 304-5 National Gallery of internet resources 267 Tbilisi (G) 9, 36-7, 38, Armenia (Ar) 136-7 languages 267 8-9 Nikol Duman Memorial money 267 S Museum (NK) 273 opening hours northeast Karabakh 272 safety 293 Nizami Literature Armenia 194 Samegrelo (G) 71 Museum (Az) 203 northwest Karabakh Azerbaijan 262 272-3 Samtskhe-Javakheti (G) QGallery (Az) 203 Georgia 123 people 273 109-15, 109 Quba History Museum Sanahin (Ar) 164-5 (Az) 229, 231 politics 270, 273 sea travel 299 Samtskhe-Javakheti relations with P Sevan (Ar) 171-2, History Museum Armenia 270 palaces, see castles, 172 (G) 113 relations with fortresses & palaces Sevanavank Peninsula (Ar) 171-2 School Museum (Az) 235 Azerbaijan 270 Parliament Building (G) 43 Şəki (Az) 11, 238-43, Sergei Parajanov safety 274 people 283-4 Museum (Ar) 137 southern Karabakh 271-2 petroglyphs 240, 11 Shushi History Museum travel seasons 265 Qobustan Petroglyph Shamshadin (Ar) 170 (NK) 270-1 visas 267, 274 Reserve (Az) 226 Shatili (G) 94 Sighnaghi Museum (G) Narikala Fortress (G) 37 Ughtasar (Ar) 181-2 shopping, see also 104-5 national parks & reserves photography 293 individual locations 286, see also parks & piti 261 Armenian language 306 318 shopping continued Tbilisi (G) 9, 31-56, 34-5, U water 303 Azeri lanaguage 307 38, 40-1, 8-9 Unesco Intangible weather 14, 20-4, 291, see Georgian language 308 accommodation 46-8 Cultural Heritage also individual countries Russian language 305 activities 45 khachkars 138 weights 292 shrines around Tbilisi 57-63, 57 muğam 258 western Georgia 63-70, 63 İmamzadə (Az) 249 drinking & nightlife 51-2 Unesco World Heritage windsurfing 229
INDEX INDEX Mir Mövsöm Ziyarətgah entertainment 52 Sites 287, 288 wine 16, 121 (Az) 225-6 festivals & events 45-6 Bagrati Cathedral wineries Pir Həsən (Az) 225 food 48-51 (G) 64-5 Hin Areni Wine Factory
S-Z Suraxanı Fire Temple history 31, 35-6 Baku (Bakı) Old City (Ar) 175-6 (Az) 224 (Az) 201-3 Ijevan Wine Factory metro 56, 56 Geghard Monastery (Ar) 169 Shushi (NK) 270-1 shopping 52-3 (Ar) 149, 151 Kakheti (G) 104 Sighnaghi (G) 104-6 sights 36-9, 42-3, 45 Sisian (Ar) 180-1 Haghpat Monastery winter sports 16, 19, 286 tourist information 53-4 (Ar) 165 skiing, see winter sports Bakuriani (G) 112-13 travel to/from 54-6 Mother See of Holy Gudauri (G) 88-90 smoking 292 travel within 56 Echmiadzin 151-3 Sno Valley (G) 93 Jermuk (Ar) 179 walking tour 44, 44 Qobustan Petroglyph snow sports, see winter Qəbələ (Az) 237 Tbilisoba (G) 24, 45-6 Reserve (Az) 226 sports Şahdağ (Az) 234 Tehlirian, Soghomian 189 Sanahin Monastery south Ossetia (G) 90 (Ar) 164-5 Svaneti (G) 85 Telavi (G) 99-102, 100 southern Armenia Ushguli (G) 86-7 Tsaghkadzor (Ar) 173-4 telephone services 293-4, 174-86, 174 women travellers 295 see also individual Zvartnots Cathedral southern Azerbaijan regions (Ar) 151 250-5, 251 temples unexploded ordnances southern Karabakh (NK) 274, 293 X Garni Temple (Ar) 149 Xaçmaz (Az) 233 271-2 Uplistsikhe (G) 61-2 Soviet history 19 Suraxanı Fire Temple Xınalıq (Az) 13, 233, 13 (Az) 224 Ushguli (G) 86-7, 10 sports 16 Theatre (G) 62 St George 115 time 14, 294 Y St Nino 62 V Yanar Dağ (Az) 226 toilets 294 vaccinations 302 Stalin, Joseph 61 Yeghegis Valley (Ar) 178-9 traditions 284 Vanadzor (Ar) 160-2, 161 Stepanakert (NK) 267-71, Yeghegnadzor (Ar) 176-8 train travel 301 Vank (NK) 273 268 Yerevan (Ar) 12, 128-48, Transcaucasian Trail (G) 96 Vardzia (G) 114-15 accommodation 267-8 130-1, 134-5, 13 transport 296-301 festivals 267 Vashlovani Protected Areas accommodation 140-2 Armenian language 306 (G) 107 food 269 around Yerevan Azeri language 307 Vayk (Ar) 179 shopping 269 149-53, 150 Georgian language 308 Vayots Dzor (Ar) 176, sights 267 drinking & nightlife Russian language 305 174, 23 tourist information 270 144-6 travel seasons 14, 20-4, viewpoints 18-19 tours 267 entertainment 146 291, , see also 14 Candycane Mountains festivals & events 140 travel to/from 270 individual regions (Az) 227 food 143-4 travel within 270 Armenia 126 Çaygoșan (Az) 232-3 history 128 Stepanavan & around (Ar) Azerbaijan 197 Jerderduz (NK) 271 159-60 itineraries 129 Georgia 30 Lerik (Az) 254 Sukhumi (G) 72-4 shopping 146 Nagorno-Karabakh 265 Şahidlər Xiyabani Suraxanı (Az) 224 sights 129-39 travel to/from Iran 297 (Az) 211 Şüvəlan (Az) 225-6 tourist information 146 travel to/from Russia 297-8 villages 19 Svaneti (G) 10, 82-8, 83, tours 139 travel to/from the visas 14, 294-5 , , 2 10 23 Caucasus 296-9 Abkhazia (G) 71-2 travel to/from 147-8 Syunik 174 travel to/from Turkey 298-9 Armenia 196 travel within 148 travel within the Caucasus Azerbaijan 200, 263-4 T 299-301 Georgia 124-5 Z Talysh Mountains 253-5 Truso Valley (G) 92 Nagorno-Karabakh 267 Zaqatala (Az) 244-7, 245 Tatev (Ar) 184-5 Tsaghkadzor (Ar) 173-4 Zugdidi (G) 69-70 taxi travel 300-1 Tsminda Sameba Cathedral (Tbilisi) (G) 42 W Tsminda Sameba Church walking tours Baku (Bakı; Az) 210, Map Pages 000 (Kazbegi) (G) 12, 92, 12 210 Photo Pages 000 Tusheti (G) 95-9, 95 Tbilisi (G) 44, 44 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 319
Map Legend
Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS
Alex Jones Azerbaijan The Azerbaijan chapter was written by an experienced Lonely Planet writer who has been visiting Azerbaijan and Georgia for two decades. He has chosen to use a pseudonym due to political and cultural sensitivities in the region. Alex also wrote the Plan Your Trip and Survival Guide sections.
Tom Masters Nagorno-Karabakh Tom studied Russian at the University of London and first visited the Caucasus in 1999 on an extended escape from a provincial university study course in the Arctic. He’s been back many times since then, in his work for the BBC World Service’s Caucasus & Central Asian Service and as author of the Georgia and Azerbaijan chapters for a previous edition of this book. For this edition, he returned to Nagorno-Karabakh to find the region safe and thriving. You can find more of his work at www.tommasters.net.
Virginia Maxwell Armenia Although based in Australia, Virginia spends much of her year travelling in the Middle East and Mediterranean Europe. The author of Lonely Planet’s İstanbul and Pocket İstanbul guidebooks, she also co-authors the Turkey and Iran guidebooks, so knows this part of the world very well. This is the first time she has updated Armenia but she hopes it won’t be the last.
John Noble Georgia John, from the UK, first came to Georgia in 1990 when he was writing Lonely Planet’s first (and last) guide to the USSR. Arriving in Georgia at Kazbegi was like a breath of fresh after Soviet regimentation and he has loved Georgians’ sense of independence, hospitality, beautiful landscapes and architecture, food and of course wine ever since. This is the third time he has covered the country for this book. John also wrote the Read more about John at: Understand section. http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ewoodrover
Contributing Author William Dunbar William is a freelance journalist who has worked in Georgia since 2006. When not travelling the country covering political unrest or obscure mountain tribes, he likes to unwind in the less salubrious Tbilisi nightspots and then complain about the service. William contributed to our Tbilisi’s drinking, nightlife and entertainment coverage.
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