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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Babayev, Tahmina Jafarova, Ilqar Ağayev, Nick OUR READERS Thomson, Shayl Majithia, Chris Jackson, Shani Many thanks to the travellers who used the and Dave Bakstrom, Anna and Ollof, Andreas, last edition and wrote to us with helpful Artur, Stephen and so many others. At Lonely hints, useful advice and interesting anec- Planet many thanks to a fine team including dotes: Kristin Odijk, Helen Elfer, Valentina Kremen- A Alan Graham, Aliyev Kanan, Amy Singer, chutskaya and stalwart fellow writers John, Antal Szabolcs, Astrid van Wintershoven B Virginia and Tom. Barney Smith, Bernd Zimmermann, Birgit Karle, Brigitte Schumann C Claas Morlang D Tom Masters Daniel Scovenna, David Devine E Edo Berger Thanks to Susanna Petrosyan for her & Nina Willemse, Edward Eve, Elisabetta invaluable help before, during and after my Bonino F Florian Timmermann, Francesco trip. Thanks also to Saro Sarosyan, Virginia Cisternino J Jacqueline Appleby, Janet Croft, Maxwell and Helen Elfer for their advice and Jillana Krause, Jiri Preclik K Katie Crysdale, assistance. Kato Hansen, Kent Kuran L Lidwien Verweij Virginia Maxwell M Matthew Ruszala, Michael Garrood, Michele Beraldo N Nancy Metashvili, Nickos Yoldassis Greatest thanks go to my travelling compan- P Peter Francev S Sain Alizada, Seda Mel- ions, Peter and Max Handsaker, my destination kumyan, Svetlana Kasaeva T Thomas Mayer, editor, Helen Elfer, and my co-authors John Thomas Sarosy, Tom Wyss W Wieland Ulrichs Noble, Alex Jones and Tom Masters. Thanks X Xavier Alcober Y Yuri Victorovich Z Zuzana also to Arpine Yesayan, Lusine Melqonyan, Orsagova Artush Davtyan and Armine Kalashyan. John Noble WRITER THANKS Thanks to so many in Georgia but especially, Dustin Gilbreath, Hans Gutbrod, William Alex Jones Dunbar, Giorgi Gardava, Geostat (National Çox Sağol to Kate Hunt, Ian Peart and family, Statistics Office of Georgia), Gulnasi Miqe- Cavid Qara, Afgan Mehdikhanov, Rustam ladze and Nazim and Sofia Ghoghoberidze, Rustamov, Mevlud, Zahid and Khaled Azizov, Giorgi Giorgadze, Ira Hartmann, Tiniko Ididze, Francesco Ricapito, Sabina Qazimova, Vamiq Regina Jegorova-Askerova, Dodo Kevlishvili, 312 Darejan Khetaguri and Vakho, Robert Kodric, Dmitry Lemeshev, Cally and Rohan ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Lienert, David Luashvili, all the Rukhadzes, Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Roza Shukvani and Vitia Chartolani, Saša Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Up- and Simona, Irakli Paniashvili and Giorgi dated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Demetrashvili, and not least my super- Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth talented, always-helpful co-authors Alex, BEHIND THE SCENES System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Virginia and Tom. Cover photograph: Mt Ushba in the Svaneti region, Georgia. Yevgen Timashov / Alamy © Noble and Danielle Systermans. Book Designer Mazzy THIS BOOK Prinsep This 5th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Helen Assisting Editor Bruce Evans Planet’s Georgia, Armenia and Elfer Cover Researcher Naomi Azerbaijan was researched Product Editors Elizabeth Parker and written by Alex Jones, Jones, Amanda Williamson Gemma Graham, Tom Masters, Virginia Maxwell Thanks to Coordinating Editor James Hardy, Victoria and John Noble, with William Kristin Odijk Harrison, Andi Jones, Kate Dunbar a contributing writer. Mathews, Catherine Naghten, The previous two editions were Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Karyn Noble, Kirsten written by Michael Kohn, John Rawlings, Angela Tinson, Laura Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 313 Index ABBREVIATIONS amusement parks Armenia 28, 126-96 around Tbilisi (G) 57-63, 57 Ar – Armenia Mtatsminda Park (G) 43 accommodation 126, 193-4 around Yerevan (Ar) Az – Azerbaijan Qabaland (Az) 237 activities 194 149-53, 150 G – Georgia Ananuri (G) 88, 18 architecture 287-8 art 19 NK – Nagorno-Karabakh animals 285-6 around Yerevan 149-53, 150 art galleries, see museums archaeological sites arts 137, 190-1 & galleries Armaztsikhe-Bagineti budgeting 128 Art-Gene Festival (G) 22, 45 A (G) 58-9 business hours 194 arts Abkhazia (G) 70-5 Erebuni Historical & climate 126 Armenia 190-1 Abşeron Peninsula (Az) Archaeological Azerbaijan 258-9 224-6, consulates 195 225 Museum-Reserve Georgia 118-20 accommodation 290, see customs regulations 194-5 (Ar) 139 Ashtarak (Ar) 153 also individual countries drinks 191-3 Fazıl Labarynth (Az) 242 Astara (Az) 255 Armenian language 306 economics 186-7, 276 Medieval Market Square Azerbaijan 28, 197-264 Azeri language 307 (Az) 202 embassies 195 accommodation 197, Georgian language 308 emergencies 128 shoe, world’s oldest 176 261-2 Russian language 304 exchange rates 128 Tigranakert (NK) 272 activities 262 activities 20-4, 123, 194, food 126, 152, 191-3 Uplistsikhe (G) 61-2 architecture 288 262, see also individual Vani (G) 69 highlights 127, 127 activities, locations around Baku 224-7, 225 architectural sites history 187-90 Adjara (G) 75-82 arts 258-9 Abanotubani (G) 37 internet resources 128 adventure sports Baku (Bakı) 9, 16 200-24, Baku Eye (Az) 209 language 194, 128, 187, Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) 202, 204-5, 208, 2, 9 Bottle House (Az) 248 305-6 (G) 90-1 budgeting 200 Çirax Qala (Az) 229 maps 195 Tbilisi (G) 45 business hours 262 City Hall (Gəncə) (Az) 248 media 195 air travel 296-7, 299 central Azerbaijan 247-50 Crescent Moon Building money 128, 195 airlines 296-7 climate 197 (Az) 207 northern Armenia 153-74, airports 15, 296 consulates 262-3 Crystal Hall (Az) 209 154-5 Batumi International customs regulations 262 Diljan Historic Centre politics 186-7, 276 Airport (G) 81 drinks 259-61 (Ar) 167 postal services 195 David the Builder Kutaisi economics 255-6, 277 Dom Soviet (Az) 207 public holidays 195 International Airport embassies 262-3 Flagmast (Az) 208 relations with Turkey 187 (G) 66 emergencies 200 Flame Towers (Az) 211, 2 safe travel 195 Gəncə Airport (Az) 296 exchange rates 200 Gəncə Darvazası (Az) 249 smoking 196 Heydar Әliyev food 197, 259-61 International Airport Heydar Әliyev Cultural southern Armenia (Az) 221 Centre (Az) 9, 211, 9 174-86, 174 highlights 198-9, 198-9 Tbilisi International Lighthouse Tower (Az) 251 telephone services 196 history 256-8 Airport (G) 296 Maiden’s Tower (Az) 201 tourist information 196 internet resources 200, 218 Zvartnots Airport (Ar) 147 Old Gabala (Az) 238 travel seasons 126 language 200, 201, 201, Akhaltsikhe (G) 113-14 Parliament Building (G) 65 travel to/from 15 263, 306-7 Akhtala (Ar) 165-6 Public Service Hall (G) 43 travel within 15 money 200, 263 Alaverdi (Ar) 164 Sighnaghi walls (G) 105 visas 128, 196 Naxçivan 255 Stalin’s Prison (Az) 250 Yerevan 12, 128-48, 130-1, northern Azerbaijan 134-5, 13 Xəzər Stadium (Az) 251 227-34, 228 Armenian genocide 138-9, architecture 16, 18, 287-8 northwestern Azerbaijan Map Pages 000 187, 188 area codes 15 234-47, 228 Photo Pages 000 around Baku (Az) 224-7, 225 Areni (Ar) 175-6 politics 255-6, 277 314 Azerbaijan continued bus travel 300 Xan Sarayı (Az) 239 Surp Astvatsatsin public holidays 263 business hours Zaqatala Fortress (Az) Church (Ar) 175 southern Azerbaijan Armenia 194 244 Surp Grigor Lusavorich 250-5, 251 Azerbaijan 262 cave cities Cathedral (Ar) 138 telephone services 263 Georgia 123 Uplistsikhe (G) 61-3 Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (G) 57-8 tourist information 263 Byurakan & around (Ar) Vardzia (G) 114-15 INDEX Tsminda Sameba travel seasons 197 154-5 cave monasteries, see Cathedral (G) 42 travel to/from 15 also monasteries Tsminda Sameba Church travel within 15 Davit Gareja (G) 11, C (G) 12, 92, 12 A- 106-8, 11 visas 200, 263-4 cable cars 16 Vankasar Church (NK) D Udabno Monastery (G) Batumi (G) 77 106-7 272 B Borjomi (G) 110 Vanis Qvabebi Monastery Zvartnots Cathedral Baku (Bakı) (Az) 9, 16 Qәbәlә (Az) 237 (G) 114 (Ar) 151 200-24, 202, 204-5, Tatev (Ar) 185 caves cinema 276 208, 2, 9 Tbilisi (G) 39 Azokh Cave (NK) 271-2 Armenia 190-1 accommodation 212-14 canyons Hartashen (Ar) 184 Azerbaijan 258 activities 212 Intsra Ravine (G) 71 Khndzoresk (Ar) 184 Georgia 119-20 around Baku 224-7, 225 Martvili (G) 71 Novy Afon (G) 74 citadels, see castles, fortresses & palaces drinking & nightlife Okatse (G) 69 Old Goris (Ar) 183 climate 14, 20-4, 291, , 217-18 Car (Az) 244 Prometheus Cave (G) 68 14 entertainment 218-19 see also individual car travel 298, 300-1 Sataplia Nature Reserve regions festivals & events 212 (G) 68 caravanserai 11, 11 Armenia 126 food 214-17 Tegh (Ar) 184 Şəki (Az) 239 Azerbaijan 197 history 200-1 Cek (Az) 233 Selim Pass (Ar) 180 Georgia 30 metro 223, 223 cell phones 14, 293-4, see carpet factories Nagorno-Karabakh