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Interactive Olfactory Surfaces: the Wellness Collection Title Interactive olfactory surfaces: The Wellness Collection: a science fashion story Type Thesis URL http://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/5408/ Date 1997 Citation Tillotson, Jenny (1997) Interactive olfactory surfaces: The Wellness Collection: a science fashion story. PhD thesis, Royal College of Art. Creators Tillotson, Jenny Usage Guidelines Please refer to usage guidelines at http://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/policies.html or alternatively contact [email protected]. License: Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Unless otherwise stated, copyright owned by the author Interactive Olfactory Surfaces The Wellness Collection - A Science Fashion Story Dr Jennifer Ruth Tillotson BA (Hons) Fashion Communication & Promotion, Central St Martins London, 1991 A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the Doctor Of Philosophy Degree of the Royal College of Art Kensington Gore London SW7 2EU School Of Fashion & Textiles Research April 1997 The candidate confirms that the work submitted is her own and that appropriate credit has been given where reference has been made to the work of others. Abstract i Abstract "Physics Is A Function Of Size. " The aim of the research is to create a new interactive communication system by 're-cabling' fabrics for releasing fragrances in 21st century fashion design. A new development, taking inspiration from biology, conjures up Multi-Sensorial Fabrics - based around the sense of smell. Using the theory that 'Smell Is Nanotechnology' and that biology works by nano-machines, biological actions can be miniaturised (such as 'sensing' in the animal world) to create an integrated system called THE WELLNESS COLLECTION. Fragrances (and eventually medication, monitoring devices and digital information) will be actively 'pulsed' electronically through a cabling device system which will 'mimic' the human senses and in particular the scent glands in our bodies and be literally incorporated into the fabric structure. Technology with therefore be integrated in fabrics and carried in invisible clothing. The system also acts as a new vehicle for designer perfumes, reducing the application of alcohol on skin and microencapsulation. Traditional textile design concerns passive issues relating to colour and texture (and performance purposes to a certain degree). However, this research concentrates on a more active approach to textile design, introducing the living active garment as a second skin. The aim is to combine a number of contrasting areas from the Arts and Sciences. For example : - Perfumery. Fashion Designs. Textile & Fibre Technologies. Space Age Clothing. Biosensing Techniques. 'Micro Tube' Technology. Fluid Control. 'Smart intelligence'. Human Biology & Psychology. Human Skin, Circulation & Nervous Systems. Medical Textiles. Controlled Drug Delivery Systems. Alternative Therapies. Nanotechnology. Although some might consider this project to be high risk, it is a general fact that creative and 'novel' research originates from multi-disciplinary fields. Emphasis on this important fact must be acknowledged throughout the thought process of the following project which is documented as a thorough ‘library’ of valuable research information. The Science Fashion approach may therefore seem very futuristic, but as technology itself reduces in size such an approach becomes increasingly realistic. The thesis describes the design thinking and methodology undertaken for the study of a PhD design based research programme which has been studied over a period of three years. (The first Interactive Olfactory Surfaces Abstract ii year was undertaken on an MPhil programme with direct transfer to PhD). Interactive Olfactory Surfaces Thesis Guide ii Thesis Guide Overview By Jenny Tillotson This guide demonstrates how I went about the research programme, illustrating what measures were taken for practical aspects of the project that are described towards the end. I will endeavour to explain the necessity of ordering for each chapter and the methodology chosen. Ordering Of Chapters In Thesis Quotes Relating To Research During the research significant quotes were collated which acted as signals and inspirations, and were encouraging in their thought process. Some were extracted from personal research letters, interviews or telephone conversations between myself and relevant industries - others were picked out of novels, websites or other reference sources. Lucille Khornak, a fashion photographer in the early eighties, wrote a particularly relevant book in 1982 in which she collected expressions, drawings and photographs from 100 Designers and predicted how the state of the fashion industry would be in the year 2001. Although this date is now only 4 years away the quotes she chose from 5 major fashion houses are stimulating and dynamic. Chapter 1 Introduction & Summary The Introduction explains my background as an Artist, how the research began and the reasoning behind its multi-disciplinary approach which was very much encouraged by my Supervisors. The Summary briefly outlines the project, INTERACTIVE OLFACTORY SURFACES, introduces THE WELLNESS COLLECTION and explains what is meant by ‘re-cabling’ clothing as a living active, reactive - and invisible technology for the 21st century. Chapter 2 Multi Sensorial Surfaces The research commences by touching on the senses and though this may be viewed as a biology lesson it is vitally important to stress how much biological actions are an inspiration to the project. Sensory imagery and , in particular, smell, are the key issues in this chapter. Interactive Olfactory Surfaces Thesis Guide iii Chapter 3 Perfume Revolution Perfumery is an enormous business and one that cannot successfully be summarized easily. However the purpose of this chapter is to emphasise the revolutionary impact this research could have commercially for Designer Fragrances in the 21st Century. CoCo Chanel revolutionised perfumery in 1921. My Supervisor, Dr George Dodd, has often pointed out the potential behind smart interactive olfactory fabrics as a new vehicle for carrying perfume. The fabric structure would therefore be a rich reservoir for fragrances to travel through. Chapter 4 Fragrance Delivery Having briefly ascertained the History Of Perfumery an enormous amount of time was spent researching different areas of Fragrance Delivery - including ‘pheromonal mating’ methods by insects. It was not only necessary to find out exactly what was technically available but to present my work to the Fragrance Industries for feed back on defining a new system. Chapter 5 The Triggers The path of this chapter is an overview of industrial and medical ‘sensing’ techniques and has been particularly dedicated to smell detecting - a thing of the future, but evidently possible. ‘Sensing’ is the key source of the project’s interactivity and mystery. It concerns what goes on inside a smart fabric, assuming that the established ‘cabling’ system contains brain power and bionic information. What makes people click? What triggers our reactions to certain things? Why did we do that and so on. Triggering is the signal from one action for another action to take place. We are entering an exciting era of biosensors which simply means sensing or triggering from the body. Chapter 6 Dynamic Surface This chapter concerns a documented library of research but also stresses that a ‘re-cabling’ fabric is comparatively similar to the body and human skin. We are, after all, a bunch of cables and intelligent cells, delivering blood, signals and bodily fluids around the body’s tubing system. Recent examples of active dynamic surfaces are listed in this chapter, stressing the dynamic surface as an outer protective shell. Interactive Olfactory Surfaces Thesis Guide iv Chapter 7 Smart Intelligence The word ‘smart’ is thoroughly defined (not to be confused with smart in the glamour sense of the word). Clothing is the invisible technology for the ‘Nomadic Approach’; a perfect carrier for transporting, for example, medication, fragrances and information, everywhere with you. The chapter concentrates on ‘intelligent’ aspects in a number of intriguing areas. Although the concept of ‘Smart Intelligence’ is nothing new, technology is reducing in size so rapidly that it will soon be incorporated into clothing. Chapter 8 The Electronic ‘Pulse’ At this stage the research diverts off into another dimension, introducing the medical industry and ‘drug delivery’. Other forms of an electronic ‘pulse’ are mentioned including gardening equipment and peristaltic pumps. Medical tubes are discussed in great detail as the carrying mediums for ‘delivery’. The chapter concludes with a brief summary of complementary therapies, emphasising the alternative Science Of Healing, in contrast to orthodox therapies. This is subsequently used as an inspiration behind the final working interactive designs. Chapter 9 Delivery Experiments This chapter has been separated into three sections - first, second and third year. The first year concentrates on the MPhil ‘Surface Design Of The Senses’ which lead up to the PhD. The second introduces the practical studio-based work which involved constructing models of textiles. The third includes experiments with different sized pumps, ranging from large industrial pumps to nano-fluid devices. Chapter 9 concludes with fashion designs for The Wellness Collection. Chapter 10 Fabrics Files Chapter 10 briefly documents synthetic fibres, fibre optics and a variety of textile technologies necessary for the future integration
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