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The Life, Rise, and Success of Dorothy Shaver

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The Life, Rise, and Success of Dorothy Shaver FORGOTTEN FIRST LADY: THE LIFE, RISE, AND SUCCESS OF DOROTHY SHAVER, PRESIDENT OF LORD & TAYLOR DEPARTMENT STORE, AND AMERICA’S “FIRST LADY OF RETAILING” by SANDRA LEE BRAUN A DISSERTATION Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Department of Mass Communication in the Graduate School of The University of Alabama TUSCALOOSA, ALABAMA Copyright Sandra Lee Braun 2009 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ABSTRACT In 1945, Lord & Taylor Department Store, a $35 million company, and one of New York’s premier retailers, elected Dorothy Shaver president, making her the first female elected to a large US corporation. Shaver rose through the corporate ranks as a communications executive. She was first Head of the store’s Comparison Shopping Bureau in 1924, was then elected to its board of directors in 1927, became a vice president in 1931, a first vice president in 1937, and then was elected president in 1945. She served in this capacity until her sudden death in 1959. Her innovations in publicity, promotions, merchandising, and advertising brought her to the attention of management, other retailers, and industry leaders in the United States and abroad. She popularized many trends that form the basis of fashion and fashion retailing as it is known today. This study provides a biographical account of her life, documents her rise through the corporate ranks, and discusses her accomplishments. It also discusses keys to her success, important influences in her life, her leadership style, and gender effects on leadership. iii DEDICATION This dissertation is dedicated to every woman who has, whether knowingly or unknowingly, suffered an inequity, disparity, or injustice, simply because she was a woman. This is to all of us. iv LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS DSC Dorothy Shaver Collection DSP Dorothy Shaver Papers NMAH National Museum of American History, Archives Center, Smithsonian Institute, Washington DC SLRI Arthur and Elizabeth Schlesinger Library on the History of Women in America, Radcliff Institute for Advanced Study at Harvard University, Boston, MA v ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I am pleased to have this opportunity to thank the many colleagues, friends, and faculty members who have helped me with this research project. I would first like to thank Karla Gower, my dissertation chair, for her commitment to the study of public relations history. This all- important work of gazing into our profession’s past is necessary in order to secure a positive future. Without proper reflection we cannot understand our reason for being, our value to the world, how and why we have evolved, or the reasons people ultimately reach for us. I thank all of my committee members, Kim Campbell, Caryl Cooper, Yorgo Pasadeos, and Joe Phelps for their time, interest, input, questions, and support. Thanks are due to Melissa Houtte, who is in the process of writing a biography on Dorothy Shaver, and who willingly shared sources and information. I am also grateful to Jeane Saxer Eddy, designer, former buyer at Lord & Taylor Department Store, and special assistant to Dorothy Shaver, for her input. vi CONTENTS ABSTRACT ....................................................................................................................... iii DEDICATION ................................................................................................................... iv LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS ............................................................................................. V ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ............................................................................................... vi CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION: SHE WAS THE "BEST MAN FOR THE JOB" ..........1 CHAPTER 2 LITERATURE REVIEW ...........................................................................10 The Status of Women Managers and Executives in the United States .............10 Leadership and Gender .....................................................................................13 Effective Leadership and Leadership Styles .....................................................15 Effective Leadership Associated with Transformational Style ................21 Do Women Have a Slight Advantage? .....................................................21 Accounting for the Difference: Biases and Stereotypes ...........................25 Comparative Studies .................................................................................31 Women and Leadership Studies in Public Relations and Advertising .....39 CHAPTER 3 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY ...........................................................43 CHAPTER 4 METHOD ...................................................................................................45 CHAPTER 5 FROM ARKANSAS TO NEW YORK: THE STAGE WAS SET ............51 Samuel Wallace Reyburn ..................................................................................61 Lord & Taylor Dept. Store: “The Jewel of Associated Dry Goods” ...............64 The Rise of the Department Store: Cathedrals of Commerce ...........................67 The Rapidly-Development Garment Industry: Clothing the Masses ................68 A Burgeoning Communications Center ............................................................70 vii What New York Did Not Have .........................................................................71 CHAPTER 6 "THE SHAVER TOUCH" .........................................................................75 Rising Through the Ranks .................................................................................75 The Re-branding of Lord & Taylor: From Dowdy to Chic ..............................86 The American Designer Movement and the “American Look” Campaign ......97 Lord & Taylor Public Relations: A Gold Standard .........................................117 End of An Era..................................................................................................133 CHAPTER 7 REFLECTIONS ON “AMERICA’S FIRST LADY OF RETAILING” ...141 Significance of Her Accomplishments............................................................141 Keys to Success ...............................................................................................151 A Copycat? ......................................................................................................171 Shaver and Men: “Thought Has no Sex” ........................................................179 CHAPTER 8 SHAVER IN COMPARISON TO THE LITERATURE .........................185 Task Orientation Versus Human Orientation ..................................................185 “Pink” Versus “Blue” ......................................................................................185 Type of Industry ..............................................................................................190 Leadership style ..............................................................................................191 Shaver’s Path to Power ...................................................................................201 Hennig, Jardim, and Hackman’s Combined Studies of Female Executives ...202 CHAPTER 9 CONCLUSION.........................................................................................209 BIBLIOGRAPHY ............................................................................................................223 APPENDIX A FEMALE CEOS ON THE FORTUNE 500, 2009 .................................237 APPENDIX B DOROTHY SHAVER - HONORS, AWARDS, AND SERVICE ........238 viii CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION: SHE WAS THE "BEST MAN FOR THE JOB" On December 19, 1945, the board of directors of Associated Dry Goods elected Dorothy Shaver, an employee of twenty-one years, and a woman, to be president of their best-producing subsidiary, Lord & Taylor Department Store.1 “The Associated Directors, in the act of voting Miss Shaver into the presidency, are supposed to have congratulated themselves on picking the best man for the job,” it was reported in tongue-in-cheek fashion.” 2 The election of Dorothy Shaver was heralded as stunning, and “a breathtaking first for Fifth Avenue.” 3 Her increased profile drew attention to her work and accomplishments such that she was named by the Associated Press as Outstanding Businesswoman in both 1946 and 1947, and Life named her “No. 1 Career Woman” in 1947. 4 Shaver proved to be an effective leader. She ascended to the top leadership position of one of the foremost retail establishments of the time, on one of the most prestigious shopping 1 "Shaver to Head Lord & Taylor, Hoving Resigns" New York Herald Tribune , December 20, 1945, A1; Time, “Business and Finance: Extra Special,” December 3, 1934, http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,930004-1,00.html (accessed December 18, 2008). 2 Jeanne Perkins, "No. 1 Career Woman," Life , May 12, 1947, 126. 3 Smithsonian Institute, “Four Women who Excelled in Business: Dorothy Shaver,” http://americanhistory.si.edu/archives/WIB-tour/mainMovie.html (accessed May 20, 2008). 4 Perkins, “No. 1 Career Woman.” 116+. 1 streets in the world – New York’s Fifth Avenue. She climbed the corporate ladder as a communications executive. With energy and excitement, she raced through each of her posts in quick succession, leaving a trail of innovations in retail merchandising, advertising, and public relations behind her. Her work has left a legacy that has affected industry standards across the worlds of merchandising, retailing, and advertising. Her first supervisory position was in 1924 as Head of Comparison Shopping, a
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