Sweet Dreams Are Made of You Can Teach This—Walking In Portugal an Old Dog by Nancy Bestor eat a delicious seafood dinner, and you’ll understand why I just wasn’t ready to New Tricks wake up. by Robert Bestor f the idea of walking from one charming Iseaside town to the next on the Algarve Our week-long walking tour in Portugal Coast in Southern was everything we hoped it would be y Grandmother, the esteemed Lois Portugal sounds and more. Most days brought entirely MBestor, was born in 1917. She grew up like a dream, I’m different experiences of southern Portugal, on a farm in Nehawka, Nebraska without here to tell you it whether it was luxury homes on the coast running water, electricity, or central is just that. Cue outside of Lagos, where we began our heating. Yet from these humble beginnings the music. Picture trek; walks through small inland villages, she lived to enjoy the advent of television, windswept cliffs with cobblestone streets and friendly see a man walk on the moon, and own with the Atlantic Ocean churning below, Portuguese villagers bidding us “bon dia;” a telephone that she could pop into her small trails—or tracks as they call them in or rugged and remote cliffs outside Sagres, purse. And in the 1990s, she used her very Portugal—with few other people, beautiful with extremely steep drops to the ocean own Apple desktop computer to write a blue sky, warm sunshine, and delightfully below, and nary a soul in sight. 383-page history of her family, going all the way back to Ireland in the 1840s. quiet beaches, and you’ll get an idea of our We averaged about 9 miles a day over the recent trip to this captivating country on five days, not too hard by any means, but I was born in 1963 and am certain that the the southwestern tip of continental Europe. with as much as 2100 feet in elevation younger generations in my family will be Add in the fact that every afternoon, at gained on any given day, not too easy amazed that I grew up with no cable TV, the end of our long day’s walk, we’d either. Some days we had short scrambles no computer, no internet, and, as of yet, arrive in a small seaside village and before up steep and rocky slopes, where I had to no iPhone 8! But just as my Grandmother doing anything else, have a cold Super grab onto rocks to pull myself up. Other learned to use the latest newfangled techno Bock beer, and later, after a short siesta, continued on page 2 continued on page 3 Travel Essentials News Little Things To Make Your Winter 2017/2018 Travels Easier In This Issue by Robert Bestor Scratch Your Travels Off This Map Page 4 Briggs & Riley Transcend Luggage Up All Night in Madrid Page 6 Yes, luggage is big. But with Briggs & How to Fly More Comfortably Page 7 ometimes it’s the little things that Riley’s newest version of their practically Smake the biggest difference. The holiday legendary Transcend line, it’s the little travel season is fast approaching with things (and a few big ones too!) that make the spring season right on its tail. Here it the best value in high-quality luggage is some of our favorite gear for the today. The Transcend story begins with traveler who’s making a wish list for their their clever new variable expansion Your Retail Outlet for Luggage, upcoming adventures. Some of them are system, which allows for customizable Travel252 Gear,East Maps Main & Travel Street Books small, yet far more useful than their size capacity and ensures that you’ll always 252Ashland, E. Main St., Ashland,OR 97520 OR 97520 belies. Others are big, but have small, have the perfect sized bag for any trip. It 541-482-7383(541) 482-7383 • (800)800-258-0758 258-0758 ingeniously designed features that make moves on to wonderful little touches like www.travelessentials.com all the difference. Check ‘em out. continued on page 4 www.travelessentials.comEstablished in 1994 [email protected] Sweet Dreams are Made of This... continued from page 1 with the walking!) to our days we walked across beautiful sandy hotel and check in, shower, beaches. At times the track was very and take a short siesta before narrow, and closed in by bushes and brush, heading back out to explore with lots of roots and rocks along the town, have another drink, ground. We had to be careful, because it and find yet another delicious was easy to admire the view and not look Portuguese restaurant for where we were stepping, and thus trip over dinner. My favorite meal a root and take a tumble, slightly bruising was definitely cataplana at a your hand and wrist in the process. But tiny restaurant in Lagos. This I’m erasing that bit from my dream. traditional shrimp, clam and Our tour was self-guided, so we went at rice dish is named after the our own pace. We were outfitted with round, lidded copper vessel it a GPS unit, with each day’s track pre- is cooked in. On other nights programmed, so once we figured out how though, we also thoroughly The company providing the services in to work it, we knew exactly where to enjoyed red bream fish, seafood risotto, Portugal was Portugal Nature Trails - go and how long we had to walk before and sangria. Lots and lots of sangria. portugalnaturetrails.com. We were very arriving in our next charming beach town. Three other couples—one each from the happy with both. We ambled through stone pine groves— US, Germany and Sweden—were on the the type of pine tree that produces pine • The self-guided tour included six nights same tour, and we often saw them at the nuts, not the pine trees we are familiar hotel, six breakfasts, luggage transfer from hotel buffet breakfast, or walking around with in the Northwest. We walked by town to town, our three hour transfers to town during the evenings, as the villages fishermen dropping their lines off high and from Lisbon, and a couple of transfers were quite small. But we rarely saw them cliffs and into the deep, blue ocean waters during the week as well. In addition to on the track, as everyone began each day below. We spied lighthouses, dolphins, the GPS, we were also well equipped when they were ready, and walked at their Roman ruins, fortresses from the 1500s with a Portuguese cell phone, in case of own pace. It was fun to check in each & 1600s, vineyards, and more. Some emergencies, and a map marked with morning or evening though, and get their days we packed a small picnic lunch into sights and restaurants along our route. take on the completed hike and sites along the way. • The pre-booked hotels were nice, usually good sized European hotels. They were Bob and I have done a fair not the type of hotels we would have amount of walking and chosen on our own, as we typically prefer hiking in our lives, but we smaller independent hotels, but the beds were definitely tired by the were comfortable, the showers were hot, end of our adventure. My and they all had wifi. And when you’ve feet tingled and my legs been walking 9 or 10 miles a day for five groaned. But I wouldn’t trade days in a row, comfortable beds and hot our experience in Southern showers are more important than hotels Portugal for any other form with lots of charm. The hotels were also of travel. We saw way more all central in the towns that we walked than we would have ever to, which was important for getting to seen in a tour bus, a car, or restaurants and bars without a car, and also even on a bike. Yes, it’s slow because we were tired of walking each travel, but after returning night. our daypack, and snacked on bread and from Europe, I’d argue that more things in chorizo, or cheese and crackers along the life should be done at a leisurely pace. I’m • Breakfasts were always full buffets, with way. Other days we just carried water, and trying to slow down and enjoy the ride, or, yogurt and granola, cold cuts and cheese, finished our hike in the early afternoon as the case may be, the walk. bread, fruit, coffee and juice. Most had hot with a big appetite for a late lunch. offerings like eggs and bacon as well. It Notes: was a perfect start for a 10-mile day. The towns and villages that we ended • We booked our tour through Mac’s up in each day were small and sleepy, • Bob and I wore tennis shoes/light hiking Adventures out of Glasgow, Scotland especially in late October and early shoes, and carried one small backpack - macsadventure.com. The cost for the November. But that was fine with us. After between us, filled with two water bottles, two of us was $2500. Mac’s Adventures our end-of-walk beer, we’d walk (again snacks, sunscreen, our map, and phone. It was just the booking agent however. was warm, even hot at times, so we didn’t need jackets, or fortunately, rain gear. “Coming back to where you started is not the same as never leaving.” —Terry Pratchett

Page 2 • Winter 2017/2018 You Can Teach an Old Dog New Tricks... continued from page 1 time for dinner. Nancy whipped out her thousand). “Grazie. Il mio nome è Robert. devices, I too try to use them to make my phone and logged on to TripAdvisor. We Sarò lì in pochi minuti” (Thanks. My everyday life, and my travels, easier. It’s checked the reviews for several nearby name is Robert. I’ll be there in a few just that sometimes, with me, there is a restaurants, chose one, loaded the map minutes) would be my reply. and directions, and within minutes, were little kicking and screaming involved. Because of these and other necessary comfortably seated with drinks and hors interactions, I know and have retained So, while I am in no way an early adopter, d’oeuvres on the way.* I am a grateful user of all the gadgets far more Italian from my travels of I can handle, particularly when Nancy Let’s say you are having friends over for nearly three decades ago than I have of and I are on the road. And despite my dinner, everyone’s having a good time, Portuguese, despite spending two weeks in relative reluctance, it even excites me perhaps some beverages are involved, and Portugal last month. someone expresses an interest in Mexico once in a while—particularly when a But while I miss this, and little things like City (or New Orleans, or wherever). Let’s simple addition that immensely improves innkeepers meeting arriving trains in an say someone else agrees. By the end on existing technology suddenly appears, old-school attempt to fill their vacancies, of the evening you could have the air, seemingly out of nowhere. in the end I’ll trade convenience, hotel, rental car and more, for your entire efficiency, and safety for the romanticized Just last month, while using Google Maps traveling party, booked and/or reserved. memories of my travel past. to get our bearings and locate our Uber No more waiting until Monday morning to pick-up location in Madrid, we suddenly call a travel agent, where you’d probably On our recent walking trip on the Algarve noticed that the blue dot indicating our leave a message and hope they get back coast, our tour company provided us with current location now included a “beam” to you when it’s a that indicated the direction that our phone convenient time, so was pointing. For us it was a revelation. that you can get the No more dialing up a route, loading a info and then relay it to map, and then walking 20 feet before re- your friends who have checking the phone to see if you are going likely already forgotten the right direction. Huzzah. about the exciting But here’s the frustrating part—that was plans you all cooked the last night of our trip. We had been up in the wee hours of using Google Maps in the exact same the morning. That’s the manner for two weeks and had not noticed way we used to do it the directional beam until that moment. kids! It was literally the last time we used the But there are things app on the trip. And now, just like that, that I do miss about it’s gone again. Before writing this story, I pre-internet travels. a hand-held GPS device with the 45-mile fired up Nancy’s phone to check it out, and In 1990, I spent a month in Italy with trail preloaded on it. So, all alone in the our beloved Google Maps beam seems just a general idea of where I wanted to wilds of Portugal, all we had to do was to have disappeared just as mysteriously go and what I wanted to see. Although follow the blue line on the screen. Truly, as it arrived in the first place. No worries it was the height of summer, my only that’s all we had to do. though, I’ll call the kids and they’ll tell me advance planning was to purchase a rail how to activate it. pass prior to departure. So to beat the In fact, the more I babble on here, the Frustrations with TSA and cramped airline summer crowds and find a hotel room, I more I realize that I probably need to seats are a larger talking point than the actually had to learn a little Italian. Upon change my luddite ways. I think I’ll look truly amazing fact that modern jet travel arriving, I’d hit the first pay phone I could into that fancy phone I mentioned earlier can deliver you pretty much anywhere find and, using the listings in myLet’s and, what the heck, bring on the driverless on planet earth within a day. Similarly, Go guidebook, start calling hotels and cars! pensions. frustrations with technology, which for me *One caveat to this example: when doing are usually user error anyway, seem to get I would ask, “Vorrei una camera per due?” this abroad, read your reviews, load your more ink than the amazing advances it has (Do you have a room for two?). “Quanto map and then turn off your data! Your map made for both our everyday lives and for costa?” (How much does it cost?). Then and its GPS locator will still work just our travels. I had to understand the response, which, fine, but you won’t be needlessly burning On our recent visit to Lisbon, Nancy and I with one dollar being equal to about 1700 through expensive data. were out and about, wandering somewhat lire at the time, was always a mouthful like “Quarantaquattromila” (Forty-four We buy a basic worldwide data plan aimlessly, when we decided that it was before we go abroad. This gives us “If adventures will not befall a young lady in her own village, she must seek them abroad.” unlimited texting, as well as limited data. — Jane Austen Winter 2017/2018 • Page 3 Little Things To Make Your Travels Easier... continued from page 1 of a leak proof trip. We have them in wide single outlet. How often does your hotel Speed Through Pockets that help you zip mouth bottles, narrow mouth bottles, and room not have enough outlets to meet through airport security by giving you the jars, all of which are available in TSA your charging needs? Or worse, has perfect place to put things like wallets, approved carry-on sizes (less than 3.4 them, but hides them behind the bed? keys, watches, rings, and more into your ounces still!) and bigger sizes as well. Our Well from now on, it’ll be easy to plug bag and not into a bin. And, of course, Nalgene Travel Bottles start at $1.00 and your smartphone, camera and laptop all Briggs’ Outsider Handle System which, range up to a whopping $3.50. at the same time into a single outlet. Each along with a full front pocket (see photo Charging Hub features a standard outlet- below) that perfectly houses a fully packed style plug and two handy USB ports. We Eagle Creek Medium Pack-It Folder, have a USA version, and three different makes their bags the easiest and most foreign plug versions for direct plug-in efficient to pack by far. Finally, last but all over the world with no additional adaptors required! So take a Charging Hub (all styles $22) on your next family trip

Scratch Maps Scratch Maps offer an eye-catching, fun, and educational way to decorate dorm rooms, kids bedrooms, kitchens, dens, and I suppose just about any room in your house. And they are fun and easy to use with a host of options. Most Scratch and you’ll be sure that everyone will be Map owners scratch off the countries fully charged at all times. It’ll help keep they’ve visited. But some choose to everybody happy, and that’s key to any scratch the destinations on their bucket successful adventure. list, while others leave their Scratch Photon Microlight not least, Briggs still puts their “Simple Map unscathed in its gorgeously pristine As That” guarantee on every single bag original state. Depending on the map, Made in the USA (Oregon to be exact!) they sell, meaning that if your Briggs & hidden underneath the foil you’ll find and packing a powerfully bright punch, Riley bag is ever broken or damaged, the Photon Microlight ($14.95) is they’ll repair it free of charge. That’s no always on hand and ready to light your little guarantee! Briggs & Riley Transcend way. It’s always on hand because it is offers a full range, all the way from their quite tiny and comes with a handy clip Rolling Cabin Bag ($299) to accessory for attaching to your key ring, purse, bags, and from their Two-Wheeled briefcase or backpack. Anywhere really. Tall Carry-on ($399) to their 29” Large The Microlight features both a squeeze Expandable Spinner ($529). button for short use and a traditional on-off switch for longer usage. It runs Nalgene Bottles on two replaceable lithium disc batteries Nalgene Travel Bottles might just fit the bright colors, world facts, or maybe even (included!) and weighs in at a mere 6.2 bill better than anything else in our shop. a few words to learn in a foreign language. grams. Once attached, you can be sure it’ll They are both among the smallest things Each Scratch Map ($28.95-$37) is made come in handy the next time a screw rolls we offer, while at the same time being in the United Kingdom from the highest under the couch or you return home after among the most reliable as well. They do quality materials, using the most advanced not leak. Got it? No matter if it’s soap, printing processes and is guaranteed to lotion, contact lens solution, gels, creams, look great! olive oil, vinegar or anything you might Charging Hubs use them for, just leave a little room at the top and give it a touch of elbow grease Our new Charging Hubs make it a snap when closing the cap and you’ll be assured to charge multiple electronics in just a continued on page 5 “And above all, watch with glittering eyes the whole world around you because the greatest secrets are always hidden in the most unlikely places.” — Roald Dahl Page 4 • Winter 2017/2018 Little Things To Make Your Travels Easier... continued from page 4 dark only to realize you forgot to turn on ($24.95) truly is new and improved with the porch light before you left. It happens more pockets and built-in RFID protection. to me all the time. Four separate currency pockets along with a main pocket that’s big enough for both Travelon Anti-Theft Crossbody Bag a passport and a smartphone offer plenty Security is no little thing. It offers peace of mind and increased confidence, particularly when traveling to unfamiliar places. Travelon’s Anti-Theft Classic Crossbody Bag ($49.95) looks a lot

SpiBelt Got a few little things to carry? The SpiBelt is ready for your smartphone, keys, credit cards, and more. A traditional fanny pack is always the same size no matter what you put in it, which often of options for handy organization of cash, makes for a fit that’s too big and floppy credit cards, travel documents and more. for your needs. But the SpiBelt’s unique A handy wrist strap provides for easy and stretchy storage pocket starts small and secure carry, but it’s also small and slender expands to perfectly cradle just about enough to fit into just about any purse, tote anything you put in it. It also features a or backpack. similarly stretchy and comfortable waist strap that moves with your body and Cocoon Minimalist Toiletry Kit makes the SpiBelt perfect for activities like walking, hiking, and working out. How could we leave out a product with We like products that offer versatility, minimalist in its title? Truth is, we’d and the SpiBelt can be worn like a waist include it no matter what it was named. like any other stylish and well-designed The Minimalist Kit from Cocoon boasts shoulder bag, yet hidden in plain sight are an impressive combination of features. a number of theft resistant features that are The kit is sure to repel even the craftiest pilferers. A compact but slash-proof strap, slash-proof body panels, roomy, and its locking zippers and RFID blocking easy-to-clean, pockets all work together to keep your laminated TPU little things safe and secure. Oxford Nylon fabric is sleek Radius Recycled Toiletry Item Cases and lightweight yet both Radius believes that the first step towards pack outside of clothes, but is also sleek enough to be worn under clothing for rugged and making an ecologically friendly product is waterproof! simple: “If we make a quality product, you increased security. The SpiBelt is available in Original Size ($21.95) and in a Large The Minimalist won’t need to throw it away as quickly.” ($64.95) also So first and foremost, they’ve designed Pocket version ($22.95), which is big enough to carry plus-sized smartphones. includes four their recycled, BPA-free products to last. zippered All their unbreakable, one-piece cases are Baggallini RFID Currency Organizer pockets, made from 50% recycled #5 plastic and each with close with clever locking tabs that keep It’s back! For unknown reasons, a few YKK Aqua contents from spilling or leaking when years ago Baggallini discontinued this Guard Water you are on the road. We’re carrying three Travel Essentials customer favorite. Well Repellent Radius cases right now, each perfectly Baggallini fans, not only have they come Zippers and designed for a bar of soap, a toothbrush or to their senses and brought it back, but a removable a razor (all are $3.99). the RFID Currency & Passport Organizer liquids bag that is perfectly sized to meet “Always there has been an adventure just around the corner–and the world is still full of corners.” TSA carry-on requirements. — Roy Chapman Andrews Winter 2017/2018 • Page 5 Staying up All Night (Kind of) in Madrid by Nancy Bestor From there we walked everywhere, taking cookies appeared, just like Rick promised. the subway only when we were hauling We took the cookies and put 9 euros in our luggage back to the train station. Ma- their place. The nun said “gracias,” and we ’ve never been a late bird. When it gets drid feels quite compact, and it seems that thanked her right back, and then went on Ito (ahem) 9:30pm, I’m often meandering no matter where you are, the main sights our merry way with our convent cookies. my way towards bed. This is not new to are never more than a 30-minute walk There is no exterior signage, nor any hint my getting-old-self either. When I was in away from each other. On our first day, we at all of the mysterious and authentic elementary and middle school, classmates followed two walking tours from the book experience available inside. You’ve got to would talk about the tv shows they were of my travel guru, Rick Steves, Snapshot be a friend of Rick’s (or at least read his watching after—gasp—8 or 8:30pm, and Madrid. I love spending my first day in a book), to get the details. I’d pretend I had seen them too, but in new city on a walking tour, as it gives me We spent a delightful Sunday afternoon reality, I was in bed and likely fast asleep a great overview, and I learn and see way with friends at the beautiful El Retiro by then. (I’m sure the other kids saw right more than I would ever see on my own. through my fakery, particularly when I had Park in central Madrid. El Retiro boasts no idea what new things cruise director Steves points out great architecture, offers gorgeous gardens, a lake filled with Julie McCoy was doing on the Love Boat, interesting history, and shares secret places rowboats, striking statues and fountains, but I digress.) that would be impossible to know about and all kinds of activity, including a kid’s puppet show, bike riders, Thus it came as something of rollerskaters, dogs, and a shock to me, when Bob and families, all enjoying the I were walking around Madrid green, urban oasis. We at 10pm on our first night in ended our walk in the Spain recently, that there were park with a long, boozy droves of people of all ages out lunch at La Galería, a everywhere. The streets and busy restaurant with so plazas were never more crowd- many windows looking ed in our four days than they out onto the surrounding were on Friday and Saturday park that it felt a bit like night, from 10pm until at least we were eating in a green- 1am, the latest that our old house. selves stayed out. Restaurants and bars were busier at 10 and Later that Sunday we took 11 than they were at 7 and 8. a quick peek at several noteworthy works by Madrid, although beautiful by the likes of Francisco day, comes alive at night. Peo- Goya, Salvador Dali and ple spill out of bars, live music Pablo Picasso at the Reina plays on street corners, couples Sofía, which is free late and families stroll pedestrian on Sunday afternoons. It’s much easier to without an inside track. Here’s a great only streets, and buildings, restaurants and justify a quick museum visit, to see just a example. Madrid’s Church and Convent storefronts are lit up with beautiful lights. handful of paintings, if you don’t have to of Corpus Christi has a superbly secret Even though I’m not at my best late in pay admission. the evening (my husband would probably shopping experience. Cloistered nuns tell you I’m not at my best in the morning sell baked goods from their convent, and Our favorite experiences in Madrid, of either), I loved being out late, and living Rick Steves told us just where to find it. course, revolved around food and drink. the life of a young and carefree Spaniard. After we pressed a bell beside a large, In addition to our fun afternoon meal at La I know what you’re thinking. I’m not nondescript wooden door, a nun answered Galería, we followed more great advice young, carefree or a Spaniard, but this is over the intercom, and I answered back from Rick Steves and hopped from one my story. A girl can dream. “dulces” (pronouncing it DOOL-thays, tapas bar to the next one evening on Calle just like Rick told me to). The nun buzzed Victoria and Calle de la Cruz, eating tasty For our Madrid stay, we rented an airbnb us in, and we walked through a couple of treats and drinking sangria, beer, or wine, (about $110 per night) in the very central dark, deserted hallways to a lazy Susan, or sometimes all three, at several small and super hip Chueca neighborhood. We with which the nuns can sell their baked and busy spots. Tapas in Madrid are quite were only about a five-minute stroll from goods without being seen. Once we inexpensive, and often when you order a Puerta del Sol, the plaza which is thought arrived at the lazy Susan, it began to turn, drink, you get some tapas for free. Small by many to be the center of all of Spain. and low and behold, a box of fresh baked continued on page 8

“Would you like to sail the sea, like a pirate, wild and free? Cast your whole life upon the wind, well it’s your song, and it’s your dream.” —John Fogerty

Page 6 • Winter 2017/2018 How to Fly More Comfortably—Hints from Nancy by Nancy Bestor This goes without saying I’m sure, but fly, because it seems like just my luck that for a long flight, I make sure to wear the man behind me talks across the aisle comfortable clothes. I’m not going to to his business partner for the entire flight have a love/hate relationship with fly- choose my skintight designer jeans for a about important leadership techniques that Iing. I love how quickly I can get halfway 10-hour flight, and it’s sad, because I have they need to pass on to their coworkers around the world. I try very hard to be so many skintight jeans to choose from. at their auto dealership (also on the flight grateful that I’m not living in the days Instead it’s comfortable black pants for from Denver to Medford, and Bob agrees when it took weeks, months or years to get me. Black always looks dressy, even when that they were annoying). And there are across the United States. I also love the what I am wearing fact that once I’m on an airplane, there is is really not much really nothing I need to do. I can’t work more than glorified (well I could work on a computer, but I sweat pants. Then I like to pretend that I can’t), I can’t return pick shoes that are phone calls or emails, and I can’t exercise, easy to get on and clean the house, cook a meal, or do any off, and I always other nagging chores. I can contemplate wear socks. Socks them, but I can’t do them. because I usually take my shoes off But the hate part of the relationship..... and I don’t want my well, let’s face it, trying to get comfort- bare feet touching able on an airplane is nearly impossible, the potentially dirty particularly for those of us flying coach. airplane carpet (I The seats are narrow, there’s not much leg know, who am I room and it’s way too easy to determine kidding with the how recently the people sitting next to you “potentially dirty” showered. Thus I try to come prepared in right?). And easy an effort to make my flight as comfortable on and off shoes as I possibly can. Here are a few “Hints because I want to from Nancy” for getting comfortable on be able to easily slip them on and off when times when no matter what a concerned a plane. Please remember that I’m not I go to the restroom. parent does, a baby just might cry all the Heloise, so if you stain your shirt with way from San Francisco to Vietnam—yes, airplane food, I cannot help you. I bring a good sized scarf. I change from this did happen. Earplugs help block it all too hot to too cold very quickly in this out. For starters, when I’ve got a long flight stage of my life, and a large scarf doubles ahead, I take a look at seatguru.com to find as a blanket. It’s much easier to regulate Bob and I always carry on, and although out where the good and bad seats are on an my body temperature with a scarf than it is it drives him crazy, I like to be one of the airplane. After inputting your airline, flight to take a bulky sweater on and off in such first to board, because I’m always anxious number and date, Seat Guru tells you what a tight space. Bob’s clothing tip is that he that the flight will run out of room for our seats to avoid. Perhaps they’re near the always wears a shirt with a breast pocket carry on if we board last. And because he bathroom, or there is a large entertainment for easy access to his iPhone for listening loves me, he does what I ask at all times box under the seat in front, or the seat to music. I also wear compression socks every once in a great while. doesn’t recline at all. I find this website on long flights, as my feet and legs have incredibly helpful as this information is a tendency to swell up, and the socks I keep some personal refreshment items critical. Then, if Bob and I are flying to- keep them from turning into tremendous handy too, because when I’m traveling for gether, we book an aisle and window seat sausages. a really long time, a good teeth brushing in a row of three. He “protects” me by sit- in the airplane bathroom, or a refreshing ting in the aisle, and I sit by the window so A few days before any trip, I check to see body wipe for those places that are getting I have somewhere to rest my head—isn’t if my airline offers free personal on board a little stinky, feels really great. And I’m marriage grand? Center seats are often entertainment. On a recent flight from sure my neighbors like it too. the last to be booked, which means if the Denver to Medford, United offered just plane isn’t full, those seats are often the this, so I downloaded the United app to Don’t get me wrong. When flying coach empty ones. If we’re lucky, we get an open my phone, and watched a movie for free, these tricks don’t give me a blissful, first seat between us, in case we’re fighting so albeit on a very small screen, but still, it class experience, but they certainly make a we can spread out, if just a bit. passed the time. I also never travel without really long flight a bit more tolerable. And, earplugs. I have them handy every time I for the record, 3% hydrogen peroxide dabbed on a stain with a cotton swab acts like a mild bleach, and should get out most “Drink heavily with locals whenever possible.” —Anthony Bourdain stains on light colored clothing.

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Staying Up All Night (Kind of) in Madrid... continued from page 6 midnight, there was a line to order. The sampled a whiskey and grapefruit con- tapas plates range in price from 2 to 5 hot chocolate is so thick it helps to use a coction, and lastly, Café Ajenjo served us euros, and sometimes we ate just a single spoon, and dipping the fresh churros into a coffee liqueur with whiskey and cream. plate at one spot, before moving right the thick, creamy brown elixir is heavenly. It was fun to check out different bars that along to the next bar. It was so fun to try we certainly wouldn’t have found if not And the drinks, oh the drinks. Bob and I different things, including spicy chorizo, for our young Madrileños. After the first learned about vermouth in Madrid from gambas al ajillo (Spanish garlic shrimp), stop, at about 9:30pm, we tried to give our our dear friends Jenna and Sergio. Of burrata with arugula and balsamic vinegar, young friends an out. We noted that surely course, we knew that vermouth existed, stuffed mushrooms, manchego cheese, they had better things to do on a Saturday because Bob likes a tasty manhattan now croquettes filled with squid ink, and night than hang out with old folks like and again. But we didn’t know that you more—much, much more. us. They insisted that it was no trouble at can drink vermouth with a splash of soda all, as the party they were going to that Another excellent food experience was over ice for a delicious afternoon refresh- evening “didn’t start until the night.” a visit to La Mallorquina, a confitería or ment. And sangria….can I talk about Remember, this was at 9:30pm. When we sweet shop on the corner of Puerta del Sol. Spanish sangria for just a minute? Every said goodbye at 1am, they headed to the La Mallorquina was extremely crowded liter pitcher of sangria that Bob and I party. Damn, I’m old. on this Saturday afternoon, but we bellied shared was absolutely delicious. Absolute- our way to the stand up bar and enjoyed ly. Delicious. My mouth is watering as I We did, however, learn to adjust our two café con leches, as well as a cream- write this. personal timetables. We ate breakfast most filled Napolitana, and a palmeras (palm days around 10am and usually had a late One evening we bar hopped with some pastry). The shop was bustling, and it was lunch at around 2pm. After all our city young, twentysomething American and fun to watch the action while enjoying our walking, we’d come back to our apartment Spanish friends, taking part in Madrid’s afternoon treats. for a late afternoon siesta, and to fortify fourth annual Coctelsaña, where more ourselves for our “late” evening. Then Late one night (well after midnight—look than 30 bars offer their own unique we’d head back out around 7 or 8, to stroll at me now Mom!), we stopped for hot cocktail concoction for 5 euros each. the streets and alleys, and end up some- chocolate and churros, at Madrid’s most After enjoying a beer and some tapas at where for a drink, then a late dinner at 9 or famous shop, Chocolatería San Ginés. El Tigre del Norte, just across the street 10. If only my primary school classmates Open 24 hours a day, this institution from our airbnb apartment, we stopped could see me now. is tucked down an alley, but even past in two more places. At Café de Ruiz, we