Alternative Tourisms in : The Role of Culture and Ecology

Alternative Tourisms in Romania: The Role of Culture and Ecology

David Turnock1 Introduction er support for local initiatives could see the A cultural approach to tourism builds on revival of equestrian tourism at Sâmbăta the work of older tourist societies like Astra in the Făgăraş Depression, based on the Abstract (1872), Karpatenverein (1880) and the Tour- local Lipizanner thoroughreds kept in the Given the challenge of rebuilding a tour- ist Information Office (1937) but momen- meadows around the 18th century castle of ist industry depressed by the stagnation of tum was lost by the unrelenting ‘top-down’ Count Bruckenthal since 1874; in an area the economy during the 1980s, combined ethos of the communist period. Archaeo- that also embraces the Sâmbăta Monas- with the growing poverty problem espe- logical and historical monuments - like the tery, rebuilt during 1926-36 along with its cially in rural areas, the Romanian govern- Dacian fortresses, the Greek trading centre school for painting icons on glass. But vil- ment decided to encourage alternative of Histria, Stephen the Great’s monasteries lages have diverse cultural values. In 1999 tourisms through fiscal incentives and pro- and the great wealth in churches such as the press gave attention to a plan for a Me- jecrs of ecological reconstruction. Earli- those in the Brâncovan style in dieval tourist complex in Rucăr by a Swiss er insustained initiatives were revived, with and the wooden churches of Maramureş - travel agency working with the famous lo- substantial foreign assistance, and a sub- have been well-preserved but have hardly cal wood carver Nicolae Cocârleţ. Located stantial rural network is now in place. The been fully integrated into the tourist cir- at Valea lui Ivan near Pecineagu Dam the paper explores this successful chapter in cuit. Likewise the landscape, wild life and complex was to include cottages within a the country’s economic restructuring with flora that provide much scope for an eco- massive perimeter of wooden fencing with particular reference to specific mountain logically-oriented tourism. Currently these completion anticipated in 2000. Villages regions with outstanding cultural and ec- resources are being promoted along with are now seen as major tourist resources in ological resources. It also shows how fur- the idea of music festivals and the context of landscape (through climate, ther programme in ecological reconstruc- summer theatres for artists of National vegetation and topography), economy (or- tion could provide further opportunity in Opera and Operatta Theatre - as ‘flagships’ chards, vineyards, pastures, fisheries and mountains and also in the Del- for tour operators. The European Cultural hunting grounds) and culture (ethnogra- ta where the emphasis now rests firmly on Centre in Bucharest has launched a series phy, folklore, arts, handicrafts and mon- conservation. of publications called ‘Romania: a Cultural uments). Developing alternative tourisms Guide’ whose first issue on ‘Heritage Tour- does not require heavy investment but it Key words: Culture, Ecology, Romania and ism and Monasteries’ was followed in 1999 can generate employment (especially in Tourism by ‘Heritage Tourism & Interethnic Tran- the context of pluriactivity) and contribute sylvania’ and ‘Heritage Tourism and Bu- to sustainability in fragile environments charest: a City of Contrasts’. Such promo- while overcoming some of inequalities in tion builds on a small number of museums the mainstream industry that has gener- like the Bucharest Village Museum of the ated 2.4 bednights/pc nationally but 4.8 in 1930s (restored in 2003 after a serious fire the South East and 3.4 in the Centre com- and now attracting a quarter of a million pared with 1.8 in the South, 1.6 in the South visitors annually), Palace and Co- West, 1.5 in Bucharest and 1.3 in the North troceni National Museum. A further di- East (Table 1). The regions can be located mension resides in sporting programmes on Figure 1 which also shows the counties such as the golf school project at Breaza’s and highlights the Carpathian region that Lac Verde (complemented by new cours- offers the best ecological resources (re- es at Pianu de Jos (Alba) and ‘Golfresort’ ferred to below) and enjoys the support of a Recaş (Timiş): the latter laid out in 2006 government agency dedicated to assisting on 34ha of former cattle grazing by Roma- the more marginal areas with agricultur- nian expatriate Dan Liviu returning from al development and pluriactivity including 20 years in Germany. rural and ecological tourism. Such facilities are now required by wealthy who can afford the Some elements €3,000 for kitting-out at special shops now available in Bucharest. But there is of alternative tourism also scope for ‘extreme sports’ linked with MONUMENTS are now a priority for thrilling sensations and ‘motivational and conservation and cultural tourism is be- business tourism’ along with conferences ing boosted by the UNDP ‘Beautiful Ro- and receptions for companies wanting to mania’ programme, with the Ministry of 1 Geography Department, The University, invest in training, leisure and entertain- Culture & Religious Affairs financing con-

Geographica Pannonica 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica Leicester LE1 7RH, U.K. ment programmes for employees. Strong- servation in Alba Iulia, Brăila, Constanţa, 56 David Turnock

Table 1 Tourism by regions in 2003 Region A B C D E F G H I J Bucharest 3295.8 1.48 1183.9 0.53 35.9 2.0 697.5 0.31 58.9 2.0 Centre 85l5.5 3.38 2424.3 0.96 28.5 2.9 453.0 0.18 18.7 2.2 North-East 4963.4 1.35 1450.4 0.39 29.2 2.6 178.5 0.05 12.3 1.9 North-West 6341.6 2.31 2251.0 0.82 35.5 3.5 279.3 0.10 12.4 2.2 South 5932.8 1.76 1704.0 0.50 28.7 2.0 253.5 0.07 14.9 3.4 South-East 13629.6 4.79 5153.5 1.81 37.8 5.1 593.4 0.21 11.5 5.3 South-West 3701.3 1.59 1643.2 0.70 44.4 5.1 45.7 0.02 2.8 2.2 West 5252.2 2.68 2034.8 1.04 38.7 3.9 264.5 0.13 13.0 2.1 Total 51632.3 2.38 17844.6 0.82 34.6 3.5 2765.5 0.13 18.3 2.5 A Capacity (th.bednights); B Ditto per capita; C Utilisation (th.bednights); D Ditto per capita; E Utilisation rate (usage as a percentage of capacity); F Average length of stay; G Overnights by foreigners (th); H Ditto per capita; I Foreigner overnights as a percentage of the total; J Average length of stay for foreigners Source: Statistical Yearbooks

Focşani Iaşi, Mediaş, Sibiu, Sighişoara Sf.Gheorghe which attracted interest by elements’ introduced by new Roma inhab- and Târgovişte in 2003. Other projects the Transylvania Trust, the Historic Mon- itants. Considerable interest in the con- include the historic square in Baia Mare ument Restorers of Transylvania and the servation of the area was shown at the and a $1.1mln programme to restore the ‘Kopeckzi Sebestyen Jozsef’ Monument Berlin International Tourism Fair (2002) Arad fortress; along with a $5.0mln World Protection Association in 2000 with a and rural tourism is now established at Bank loan to restore Brancuşi sculptures view to interdisciplinary, inter-ethnic and Răşinari, Sălişte and elsewhere. Money in Târgu Jiu. Currently there is much in- inter-cultural dialogue. A remarkable res- has been going into the rehabilitation of terest in the Dacian citadels in the Orăştie- toration involves the Count Kalnoky man- tourism in Sibiu county since 1998. This Şureanu Mountains, prominent among sion at Micloşoara (Baraolt): a border for- has impacted on the Medieval architec- the Romanian historical monuments in- tress that became a 16th century hunting ture of Sibiu itself (reduced to a precar- cluded in UNESCO’s world patrimony lodge and is now restored for weekend din- ious state, requiring international help) list (along with Băniţa and Piatra Roşie). ner parties, along with 19th century guest- but also the rural citadel churches of the A €7.2mln Phare project will conserve the houses retaining antique furniture and tra- thirteenth-fifteenth centuries (Alma Vii, citadels and integrate them into the tour- ditional wood stoves (though bathrooms Biertan, Câlnic, Moşna and Pelişor. There ist circuit. In addition to multidisciplinary respect western standards of comfort!). has been help from the CoE, World Bank study involving ministries and the Roma- Saxon Monuments are another major and World Monuments Fund, while a Ro- nian Academy, the local authority (Hune- concern in the light of the rapidly dwin- manian Cultural Foundation programme doara County Council) has a role in con- dling German population and the inap- for Saxon Villages is being supported sup- trolling the use of metal detectors - widely propriate transformation of the German ported by Britain’s Prince Charles and the used in the search for gold. A natural park heritage in Mărginimea Sibiului. The his- Mihai Eminescu Trust (Plate 3). An inter- would now be an appropriate designation toric centre of Sălişte has been damaged est in communities as well as buildings for this area and help control the construc- through plaster and stucco being scraped has highlighted organic farming (with tion of holiday villas within 500m of pro- off the houses and replaced by ‘Oltenian the help over producer licences and mar- tective perimeters extending over 127ha at Blidaru, 116ha at Costeşti and 332ha at (332ha) - all includ- ed in the UNESCO list. Other monuments of this period are being conserved e.g. the Daco-Roman settlement at with a subsequent earthwork fortification and a later fourteenth century citadel (excavat- ed during 1974-7) with stonewalls, bastions and towers added later. Some Roman sites were safeguarded under communism e.g. the remains of ’s bridge at Drobeta- Turnu Severin - of great interest to Roma- nians - were protected by a concrete wall when the dam was built. Ref- erence should also be made to a wealth of historical buildings including Medieval monasteries and Early Modern churches (Plate 1) as well as fine vernacular architec- ture (Plate 2). At the same time other eth- nic interests require due recognition (Light & Dumbraveanu-Andone 1997). Hence the exhibition on disappearing assets and val- Figure 1 The regions and ; also showing the Carpathians and the

ues at the National Szeklers’ Museum in area of responsibility for the Agency for the Mountain Zones 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica 57 Alternative Tourisms in Romania: The Role of Culture and Ecology

kets) and rural tourism, with British spe- cialists working in ten villages in 2002. It is planned to use some Saxon churches for theatre shows e.g. Cisnădioara, Câlnic and the thirteenth century mayor’s house in Sibiu. At Sighişoara, Medieval tour- ism was being promoted in 1998 through a Centre for Development & Promotion of Historical Tourism by Mureş Local De- velopment Corporation with money from Phare (which is also interested in SMEs and upgrading rural environment). Resto- ration of monuments has followed and the local tourist circuit enhanced. Phare has also helped revamp the cultural-historical monuments in the Braşov area linked with defended settlements built after the Tartar invasion 1241 (contrasting with Romanian dispersed system). Industrial Archaeology opportuni- ties are very extensive in view of the pace Plate 1 Cârnu Monastery in the upper Buzău valley (Buzau county) of modernisation and retooling since 1989. Only a very small amount of histor- ic equipment can be rescued. But several narrow-gauge railways have been retained (Sibiu-Agnita, Târgu Mureş-Band and -Abrud) while a heritage tramway in Iaşi features an old vehicle with 18 wood- en seats brought out from the obscurity of the depot in 1998 to operate at weekends with a refreshment service. Sadly howev- er a highly-desirable project to restore the -Comandău forest railway, in- cluding a unique inclined plane is threat- ened by the bankruptcy of the Brafor log- ging company and restitution claims from people who purchased the timber compa- ny (Erdelyi Erdoipari) from Jewish Groedel family in 1944 prior to nationalisaton – al- though other systems still opertate com- mercially at Moldoviţa and Vişeu de Sus. In Caraş-Severin there is local interest is Plate 2 A typical wooden gateway commonly used at the entrance to houses in the Iza an iron-road (‘drumul fierului’) project and Vişeu valleys (Maramureş county) Trim slightly at top and right side based on the historic metallurgical indus- try initiative at Reşiţa, Anina and a scat- ter of other locations (Hillinger et al. 2001; Olaru et al. 2001). Following the experi- ence with the Kraków salt mine in Poland, there are proposals for the Bocşa-Ocna de Fier-Dognecea area to maintain artifi- cial lakes formerly needed for ore process- ing and the former Dognecea-Ocna de Fier underground transport passage. At Ocna de Fier, where there is already a private col- lection of aesthetic rocks, the local author- ity is looking for suitable properties that could be redeveloped for tourism e.g. the former Danila mine administrative build- ing. Reşiţa already has a museum for the ‘montan’ economy and a steam locomotive collection while Anina has its coal min- ing vestiges and a remarkable mountain railway (dubbed the ‘Romanian Semmer- ing’) to Oraviţa. Industrial archaeology blends with a religious profile augment- Plate 3 Persistence of German architecture in the village of Biertan near Sighişoara ed by a historic religious art collection in

Geographica Pannonica 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica (Sibiu county) Reşiţa and Bocşa’s Sf.Ilie de la Izvor mon- 58 David Turnock

astery consecrated at the beginning of the cea and Galaţi (including Costeşti, Dealul planning procedures including EIA, much century near a spring where miner Ax- Bujorului, Nicoreşti, Odobeşti, , Par- higher standards for water quality, pollu- ente Perian regained his sight. There is also adis and Smulţi), seven in Bucharest, Argeş tion control and waste management and ethnography and folk architecture aris- and Prahova, four in Constanţa and Tulcea effective régimes for protected areas that ing from the indigenous population di- (including Basarabi, and Murfat- are to be conceived in terms of continental versified by Habsburg colonisation (Sabiel lar) as well as Transylvania and Banat (e.g. protected area networks in line with ‘Eu- 2000); wildlife and fishing; winter sports Jidvei and Recaş), and two each in Iaşi (in- ropa 2000’. Moreover the European ‘sus- established on Semenic and also at Poi- cluding Cotnari) and . In Vrancea, tainability’ concept is being handed down ana Mărului and Muntele Mic, with plans wine cellars from the Ştefan cel Mare peri- to new member states in terms of high- for cable transport between the latter two. od (referred to in a document of 1700) were er standards in agriculture and forestry in New rural tourism accommodation is discovered at Panciu in 1952: the system was line with CAP ‘second pillar’ concepts of available at the Briza Munteliu guesthouse extended under communism and 3.0mln rural diversification and countryside man- at Gărâna organised as a family associa- bottles of Panciu champagne are current- agement. The major NGOs like WWF nat- tion on the Austrian model; surrounded ly stored - the product of Veritas, the lead- urally endorse these perspectives but ar- by fir-spruce-beech woods and related fau- ing local champagne maker with 1,476ha of gue for more radical policies in line with na with Semenic Mountain and the lakes vineyards and exports to USA and Western their criticisms of the EU as an organi- of the Bahlui hydropower complex near- Europe. And the nineteenth century land- sation committed to growth. They argue by lakes. Protected areas on Semenic, the owner villa (‘conac boieresc’) in vineyard that the high biodiversity values of ECE Caraş Gorges and the Iron Gates Natural country is becoming a hot property spec- do not need reconstruction after the rav- Park round off this complementary profile ulation. Meanwhile in Transylvania, Alba ages of communism so much as safeguard- with the management of habitats to safe- county’s ‘Drumul Vinului’ association will ing as a major European resource against guard rare species like the Hermann turtle, launch a vineyard programme in based on threats arising from future development poisonous viper, black stork, dwarf cormo- demonstrations, tasting and accommoda- underpinned by heavier road traffic. They rant and dwarf falcon - thanks to EU fi- tion at Cetatea de Baltă but including oth- also see Europa 2000 as a stepping stone nance (€0.4mln during 2001-4) and coor- er vineyards in the Târnave area (Blaj, Jid- not only for a PEEN but also for ecoregion- dination by Bucharest University and an vei, Sâncel, Şona and Valea Lungă) and the based conservation that would treat moun- advisory council. adjacent areas of Alba Iulia (Câlnic, Gârbo- tain chains as a single units requiring co- va and Ighiu) and Ciumbrud-Aiud. Mean- ordination all the states involved instead GASTRONOMY is another area of op- while visitors to the Lake Bicaz in of having protection restricted to local re- portunity. Caraş-Severin CC organised a can take advantage of a floating restaurant serves and parks. Also pollution plum brandy festival at Băile Herculane in serving local dishes. crisis requires action in the relevant riv- 1998 (promoting renowned brandies from er drainage basins in terms of water puri- Armeniş, Brebu, Soceni and Teregova), ECOLOGY also requires some con- fication, ecological rehabilitation and ex- equivalent to the beer festival in Timişoara. sideration in this chapter because much ploitation of tourism potentials e.g. at the However most efforts in this field have gone of tourism potential is tied up with land- picturesque lakeside settlement of Surduc into wine, with a start provided by the Mu- scapes that, although well-settled in view near Timişoara. A unified approach to the seum of Vine & Fruit Growing at Goleşti, of dispersal of peasant agricultural practic- Danube is emerging through the EU wa- close to the Ştefăneşti-Argeş vineyards. It es, nevertheless retain a high biodiversity ter directive that specifies planning at the started in 1966 on 10ha site (alongside the value especially in the mountains. Despite level of river basins, with wast-water treat- Goleşti manor declared a museum in 1958) the ravages of mining (greatly intensified ment (WWT) in all the large towns that with a grape-growers house from Glăvile in the communist period) and the trans- currently pollute the river. near Drăgăşani and a fruit grower’s house formation of valleys by hydro installations, Meanwhile it was evident in the late from Davideşti near Vultureşti in Mus- rural pollution levels were not excessive 1990s that prospects for greater coordi- cel. Now there are 25 houses, including a and tourism was broadly sustainable. The nation across the Carpathians were good. cellar from Valea Mare (Dâmboviţa) dat- designation of nature reserves went ahead WWF became involved in a large carni- ing to 1707 and a rural tavern of 1860 from along with the creation of the first nation- vore initiative that is particularly relevant Poseşti (Prahova), in addition to wine-mak- al park in 1935. Since 1989 however ecolo- to the Carpathians in view of their relative- ing equipment and the surrounding vine- gists and conservationists have been able ly large numbers in this area. Indeed, bears, yards and orchards. Now, with the wine to publicise many local land use problems - wolves and lynxes require large territories industry completely privatised, the tour- such as high grazing pressure or heavy de- and use the Carpathian ‘bridge’ to con- ist authorities under Minister Dan decid- forestation - often exacerbated through in- nect habitats in the northern and south- ed to classify quality wine cellars (under dividual actions in a new era of democracy ern parts of the continent. ENGOs are a scheme of one/five-glasses!) with a pilot and voluntarism including a widening of also getting together and one umbrella or- project involving the Prahova CC, the min- tourist activity. Given the threats to bio- ganisation has taken the name Carpathi- istry and wine cellar administrations with diversity the need arises for environmen- an Bridge (‘Priashev’): an international special funding (15bln.lei) to surfacing lo- tal education combined with legally-enfor- association of public ecological organisa- cal roads connecting the best cellars: To- cable restraints e.g. in the case of national tions. The Environmental Partnership for hani (Gura Vadului) with 1,300ha of vine- parks enlarged through many new desig- Central Europe (EPCE) is also an impor- yards associated with Prince Nicholas nations in 1990, but without resources for tant network for conservation and sustain- (brother of Carol II) and his restored manor effective management at a time of financial able development. And in 1998 the Euro- house; the Belu mansion and Jercali mon- stringency and uncertainty over appropri- pean Centre for Nature Conservation - in astery at Urlaţi; the Cantacuzino mansion ate policies to strike a fair balance between cooperation with IUCN (World Conserva- at Filipeşti; and Valea Călugărească with conflicting interests. tion Union) and Polish Academy of Scienc- the mansion houses of Matache and Secui. A Pan-European Ecological Network es’ Institute of Nature Conservation - sent A national ‘Romania: Land of Wine’ (‘Ţara (PEEN) has been advocated by foreign a message to the Arhus Ministerial ‘Envi- Vinelor’) programme has now been built NGOs and increasingly by the EU acces- ronment for Europe’ Conference of 1998

around 30 cellars including eight in Vran- sion agenda requiring more sophisticated and the Pan-European Biological & Land- 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica 59 Alternative Tourisms in Romania: The Role of Culture and Ecology

as may be threatened by local incomes e.g. in the Retezat where the local shepherds would like to be bought out. A strong push is coming from the EU taking the view that future pre-accession funding should reflect the status of agri-environmental schemes as a key policy instrument throughout the union. EU rural funding programme for accession countries (SAPARD) should be contingent on grass-roots’ participation and on connections with protected areas networks and Natura 2000, although Ro- mania has managed to evade this priori- ty in large measure and agricultural-envi- ronmental projects are in their infancy. Rural and ecological tourism Although common enough in Western Eu- rope through the British ‘bed and break- fast’ syndrome and the Continental ‘gîtes’, this is a relatively new branch for Roma- Plate 4 A Subcarpathian landscape with heavily-wooded hillsides around Muşcel nia. It was difficult to contemplate under village in the Pătârlagele atrea of Buzău county communism with its focus on large state scape Diversity Strategy, an inspiration of cause of their importance in finding cen- enterprise. But it now offers advantages as the CoE and UNEP geared to realisation tres of Carpathian endemism and also be- a route to rural diversification - labour-in- of a PEEN (Bennett 1998). This ‘Kraków cause of the good data coverage. These core tensive rather than capital intensive - that Declaration’ pointed out that “historic op- areas are in many cases already protected in is particularly attractive to country lov- portunities still exist in Central & Eastern some way but in Romania the present sys- ers and budget travellers seeking relative- Europe to safeguard the remaining natu- tem of national parks and protected land- ly cheap accommodation. However, if it is ral heritage” currently threatened by rap- scape areas is relatively sparse and a prop- to become an important business, success id landuse change in the face of heavy de- er management system is lacking. With depends on local attractions and the devel- velopment pressure (Nowicki 1998, p.258). approval of the programme at the Bucha- opment of social capital within communi- Motivated by a sense of shared responsi- rest ‘summit’ of 2001 work is now proceed- ties so that the business rests on a broad bility fundamental to Europe’s integra- ing on a long-term (10-15 year) ecoregion- partnership rather than the enterprise of tion process, a PEEN was commended as a al conservation plan with actions for the a few entrepreneurially-minded families. means of safeguarding the remaining nat- first five years. The Carpathica Conven- There are links with cultural tourism given ural and semi-natural areas, with research tion signed in Kyiv in 2002 concerns a Car- the opportunity to live within tradition- and monitoring for the Carpathians: also pathian Ecological Network - involving al rural communities and also with ecot- strengthened local capacities for conserva- protected areas with ‘good conservation ourism where travellers can take advan- tion; and environmental education for lo- and organisation’ outside them - as part of tage of nature, including rare ecosystems cal communities. PEEN. The EU Life-Nature Programme for and endangered or vulnerable species, and Threats to the Carpathians. While tra- 2003-4 now includes a project for repopu- control of their impact upon it. This im- ditional peasant life has been broadly sus- lating Vrancea with bears, wolves and lynx plies that not only is a certain ‘capacity’ re- tainable, the Carpathians are now con- in coexistence with the local population quired, but also a limit to the scale of de- fronted by a mix of threats in terms of while in the Piatra Craiului, southwest of velopment to achieve sustainability with urban-industrial development with sig- Braşov, a conservation project to safeguard regard to small, indigenous host commu- nificant levels of pollution (especially on the substantial large carniviore population nities and also sensitive environmental ar- account of coal-burning thermal pow- has been in force for some years. eas requiring careful design and manage- er stations and chemical and metallurgi- At the same time, there is a substantial ment to minimise negative impacts. cal industries), tourist pressure (includ- rural population dependent on the natu- ing hunting) and transport flows along the ral resources and maintaining these frag- EARLY INITIATIVES. Curiously, main European corridors. Development ile communities must be a complementary there was an initiative under communism pressures in Romania are weaker, yet rural part of the vision (Plate 4). Any approach that went beyond the provision of cooper- economies are less sustainable than before, to conservation must recognise the uni- ative campsites, occasional motels and tol- given the illegal cutting of restituted for- versal demand for growth and higher liv- erance of second homes for well-connected ests and heavy grazing pressure by peasant ing standards in all the countries involved. families. In 1973 the Ministry of Tourism farmers whose main source of income aris- Hence the relevance of local projects for began an experiment in recognising ‘tour- es from the sale of livestock. WWF took sustainable development in which NGOs ist villages’: two each in the counties of the initiative in 1999 with a reconnaissance (including those already networked Braşov (Fundata and Şirnea), Dâmboviţa study that took account of all relevant ex- through EPCE) will work with stakehold- (Lereşti and Rucăr) and Sibiu (Răşinari and pertise and involved contact with selected er groups within individual communities. Sibiel) and one each from Arad (Halmag- stakeholders and key actors in order to as- There is no doubt that natural ecosystems iu), Gorj (Tismana), Maramureş (Bogdan sess the biodiversity of the Carpathians in in the Carpathians are under strong an- Vodă), Suceava (Vatra Moldoviţei) and the light of current threats and conserva- thropological influence and large protect- Vâlcea (Vaideeni) shown in Figure 1. How- tion efforts. Priority Biodiversity Impor- ed areas may pose as unacceptable barriers ever the following year a new law came tant Areas (BDIAs) have been identified, to development. Some traditional prac- into force preventing foreigners from us-

Geographica Pannonica 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica with particular weighting for habitats be- tices necessary to maintain grazing are- ing of private accommodation, except in 60 David Turnock

the case of very close family relationships. tions were still intact; and attractive nat- ity was allowed in the case of connections This meant that the relatively small num- ural landscape along with cultural and for electricity, gas, water and sewage - and bers of foreign tourists travelling by car historical objectives that could form the also for a fixed telephone link (with charg- (the vast majority flew in on package tours) basis of tourist itineraries; proximity to the es for all these services at domestic rates); had little choice but to use hotels that were railway and/or national road systems; and while land might be given by local coun- situated overwhelmingly in the towns. The adequate local services (electricity, water, cils and technical assistance provided by law was very strictly enforced in Transyl- sewage and commercial facilities); social NAT and professional associations. How- vania so much that Hungarians believed and economic resources to sustain a good ever premises still had to be licensed to en- that its prime objective was to complicate standard of living; and qualified people to sure minimum standards and a grading their family contacts by forcing the more implement a local tourist programme in system of one/five-stars (now daisies) re- distant relatives into state accommodation, collaboration with tourist agents and op- flected the availability of modern toilet fa- especially when a decree of 1976 abolish- erators (Plate 5). On this basis a start was cilities, radio and TV, refrigerators and tel- ing restrictions and compulsory foreign made to select suitable villages and the list ephones (Mitrache et al. 1996). Efforts have currency exchange for Romanian emi- comprised Carpathian villages from the been made to tackle the black market ele- gres expressly excluded Hungarians. Fur- counties of Braşov (Bran), Caraş-Severin ment evading quality control (which may ther growth of tourism was then associat- (Marga), Dâmboviţa (Lereşti), Maramureş account for up to 30% of the business) with ed exclusively with the state sector, while (Călineşti), Sibiu (Sălişte and Sibiel) and further legislation in 2003 to deal with rural planning became dominated by the Vâlcea (Vaideeni); as well as Sfântu Ghe- anomalies in the original law that seemed drive to establish a network of agricultur- orghe from . It is not clear to encourage the illegal operations. And in al-industrial centres with consolidation of how these villages were selected. Detailed order to improve quality it has been pro- the rural within restricted building perim- profiles were compiled through a survey posed that management courses should be eters. However, although neglected under document (‘fisa’) and it transpired that in mandatory for all operators of agrotouris- communism, the ecological and ethno- Bran, Marga, Sălişte and Sibiel there were tical farms (ATFs). graphical resources for rural tourism were good socio-economic conditions (includ- The Tourism Research Institute thought largely preserved for posterity by unbal- ing infrastructure and services) and a re- that facilities in 8,500 rural households anced development that left much of the ceptive attitude to rural tourism on the by 2000 would provide Romania with a countryside in a time warp. part of both villagers and the local au- niche in the market and spread the bene- Under the transition rural tourism was thority. The other four villages had defi- fits of tourism more widely throughout the favoured in several different quarters and ciencies. country without the need for heavy invest- initiatives were able to come together and ment. The accommodation was needed es- produce a coherent programme. Noting LEGISLATION became necessary to pecially in priority areas like Bran-Rucăr the strength of rural tourism in the Polish stimulate householder through fiscal con- and Covasna and in wider zones compris- Carpathians, the Commission (later Na- cessions. As a result of legislation enacted ing the , the Eastern tional Agency) for the Mountainous Re- in 1994 for the mountain zone, the Danube Carpathians (Bistriţa-Năsăud, Neamţ and gions (NAMR) saw the business as funda- Delta and the Black Sea coast, approved Suceava) and the Black Sea coast including mental to diversification in the mountains farms and guesthouses (the latter having the . On this basis, just over enabling the agricultural sector to respond 3-20 rooms) providing quality services a thousand households were invited to ap- to crisis. This dovetailed with the desire would enjoy ten years’ profit tax exemption ply for classification as units of rural tour- of the Ministry of Tourism to expand the and are exemption from the regulations ism in 1995-6. These are spread somewhat business (with targets for an increase in requiring permits from the electricity, wa- unevenly over 20 of the counties including domestic and foreign to 8.4mln and 7.2mln ter and sanitation authorities over design, a portion of Carpathian mountain terri- respectively in 2000) at a time when pri- health and safety matters. Moreover, prior- tory (although the first national catalogue vatisation was too slow to generate invest- ment to refurbish and expand the leading resorts. While large groups touring by bus would almost certainly continue to use ur- ban hotels, rural tourism offered an oppor- tunity for small groups and family parties from abroad to enjoy a wide choice of rel- atively inexpensive accommodation not available under communism. On the basis of a meeting of minds between the NAMR and the Tourism Ministry, the Federation for Mountain Development has encour- aged farmers to diversify into rural tour- ism at a time when the Romanian media made much of the country’s economic problems and the further downsizing in industry that was to be anticipated. In 1992 the Ministry of Tourism sug- gested a range of criteria for the identifi- cation of tourist villages: picturesque and non-polluted countryside; traditional cul- ture (with regard to costume, handicrafts, literature and music) along with special Plate 5 A diverse cultural landscape in the Pănătău valley near Pătârlagele in Buzău architectural styles in areas where villag- county. With varied lithology and inclination there is constant risk of landslides and a

es or zones with traditional rural occupa- ‘microlandschaft’ reflects the varied potenials for land use and settlement 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica 61 Alternative Tourisms in Romania: The Role of Culture and Ecology

contained no entries for the nine counties with meat and cornflour and eaten with during 1992-3 and 1994 was the first year of of Arad, Bihor, Caraş-Severin, Dâmboviţa, horseradish during special events like New activity: about a thousand bed-nights were Mureş, Neamţ, Sălaj, Satu Mare and Year) was held at (Harghita) in Sep- secured and it appeared that the scheme Timiş). Just over 60% of households ac- tember, reciprocating an Hungarian hos- might extend to other parts of the coun- cepted but with a substantial difference pitality in 1995, and a pie competition was try with Phare support and other forms between the Curvature and Eastern Car- held in Bacău later in the year. But equal- of assistance. ‘Fondation Rurale Rou- pathians (above the average) and Banat- ly important was the financial support for maine’ helped these local projects by link- Oltenia and Western Carpathians where Romania’s rural tourism. This came from ing Timişoara University of Agricultur- the response was much poorer. It is not individual countries such as the UK (pro- al Sciences with Fédération Nationale des clear why there should be such a clear con- viding economic advice under the Know- Foyers Ruraux (France), Fondation Rurale trast, although the strong tourist tradition How Fund) but most significant was de Wallonie (Belgium) and L’Institut Eu- in some high-scoring areas may explain a Phare’s support over marketing, regulato- ropéen d’Écologie (Metz). There was also particularly positive attitude in some cas- ry frameworks and training. Phare has col- help from the French Ministry of Foreign es. The work of the local authority may also laborated with Naret on the ‘Promotion of Affairs and Balgium’s Wallonie Region have been very important for a big growth Rural Tourism Programme’ primarily in- over local coordination and autonomy in- of interest was reported in Vama (Suceava) tended to advertise Romanian rural tour- volving development plans, exchanges of in response to encouragement by local offi- ism at exhibitions and fairs of both local information and experience, resource ex- cials following a poor initial response. Spe- and international importance. It has also ploitation and representation on public cialist organisations have come to fore to established an effective rural tourism res- bodies (Ureche & Ureche 1997). stimulate rural tourism and provide in- ervation network, produced brochures and Phare continued to play a key role put from the grass roots. In particular, a organised workshops. through provision of €0.90mln towards National Association of Rural Ecological Opérations Villages Roumains (OVR) the cost of a promotion and development & Cultural Tourism (NARET – though provided a parallel initiative originating as programme to run from 1994 to 1997. There ANTREC is the Romanian acronym) was a concerted campaign mounted in West- was a promotion programme leading to formed in 1994 to promote of rural tour- ern Europe in 1988 to oppose Ceauşescu’s the first Naret catalogue with around 1,000 ism throughout the country and identi- ‘sistematizare’ by the development of twin- addresses, a computerised reservation fy barriers to development. Although it is ning links. Around 1,500 such links were system and information centres in four based in Bucharest it developed in the area in existence in 1990, but after the revolu- zones. Also a development programme, of Bran-Moeciu (near Braşov) out of the tion the emphasis shifted to development including infrastructure and training, tourist accommodation agency Bran-Imex, strategies and ‘democratic workshops on was handled by OVR in four zones: the managed by the Stoian family who are now agriculture and environment’ held in Cluj- Arieş valley (Alba), Bran-Rucăr (Braşov/ prime movers in Antrec: Marilena Stoian Napoca and Timişoara in 1991 revealed the Dâmboviţa), Vadu Izei (Maramureş) and being the organisation’s chairperson while opportunities in rural tourism as a new lo- Vama (Suceava). This included a number of her mother, Maria Stoian, founded Bran- cal dynamic (Moldovan & Moldovan 1995). micro-projects including efforts to stimu- Imex after arriving from Bucharest in 1990 A total of 14 village pilots included four late local crafts concerned with wood, em- as a second home owner. Antrec is there- villages in the upper Arieş valley of Alba broidery and egg painting. Each village fore particularly strong in the Braşov area. county: Albac, Arieşeni, Gârda de Sus and or group produced information describ- Along with other NGOs like the Romanian Scărişoara; three from Maramureş (Buciu- ing the local facilities and opportunities so Automobile Club, it collaborates with the mi, Ieud and Vadu Izei), two from Harghi- that a complete pack (covering all the pilot Ministry of Tourism and Ministry of Agri- ta (Lăzarea and Chileni); and one each projects) displayed a wide diversity of at- culture with regard to rural tourism in the from Bistriţa-Năsăud (Lunca Ilvei), Braşov tractions: landscapes, woodlands and oth- Carpathians. (Şoarş), Mureş (Ceuaşu de Câmpie), Sibiu er aspects of flora and fauna, agricultur- (Sebeşu de Sus) and Suceava (Vama) (Plate al systems, medicinal plants and mineral INTERNATIONAL SUPPORT arises 6). In most cases an association developed waters, winter sports, unusual transport through NARET’s affiliation to the Stras- bourg-based European Federation of Ru- ral Economic & Cultural Tourism (‘Eu- rogîtes’). This enabled Romania to draw on expertise from the 22 national and region- al member associations, especially ‘Gîtes de France’ (France’s national federation of rural tourism) which has 40 years experi- ence in the business. Antrec acceded to the quality charter of Eurogîtes and Romani- an addresses appeared in their catalogue from 1995. Romania’s role in rural tourism was further highlighted by the holding of the 1997 Eurogîtes International Confer- ence in Braşov and the election of Marile- na Stoian as president of the organisation for the period 1997-9. Antrec also organ- ised two events in 1996 that attracted an international entry thanks to its protocol of cooperation with Hungary’s Nation- al Association for Rural Tourism. A com- petition for ‘sarmale’ (a delicacy consist-

Geographica Pannonica 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica ing of cabbage rolls or vine leaves stuffed Plate 6 The village of Arieşeni (Alba county) with the ski slopes of Vârtop in the distance 62 David Turnock

facilities (forest roads and railways), his- than a week) although some of the larger ty’ network that was one of the organisa- toric buildings (castles, monasteries), mu- guesthouses attracted up to 1,500 guests tions early aims. Most locations have only seums and ethnography: including archi- in a year. It was evident that the ATFs in- a single ATF but clusters of 5-10 appear in tecture, handicrafts, dances, festivals and volved might generate 25-30% of their total Alba (Arieşeni and Gârda), Braşov (Poi- other traditions (Wortthelet 1997). In each income from tourism, with further benefits ana Mărului and Săcele), Gorj (Tisma- case there was a link with a village in Bel- through market outlets for farm produce na), Harghita (Praid), Maramureş (Botiza, gium (or another West European country) and cultural development through foreign Rozavlea and Sălistea de Sus), Mehedinţi to help with external marketing: for exam- languages, appreciation of West European (Dubova), Neamţ (Viişoara), Prahova ple Vadu Izei was paired with the Belgian lifestyles and breaks from the normal farm (Cheia), Sibiu (Sibiel), Suceava (Vama), Tul- village of Brain le Compe. Annual inspec- routine. Rising demand stimulated some cea (Crişan) and Vrancea (Focşani). High- tions were made to check different aspects local tour businesses, shops and handi- er numbers are found only in Ponoarele of the tourist product offered by individ- craft workshops, with catering for special (Mehedinţi) and Rucăr (Dâmboviţa) with ual households. The project demonstrated interests (mountain biking, sports, paint- 12 each, Lepşa (Vrancea) with 16, Albac that rural tourism could be an instrument ing and photography) in addition to gen- and Rimetea (Alba) with 17 each and most in the service of local development. For a eral sightseeing. But extra jobs fell largely exceptionally the Bran and Moeciu areas time the European Centre for Eco-Agro to booking agencies, with a few positions of Braşov with 39 and 57 respectively. On Tourism (ECEAT), based in Amsterdam, in cleaning, maintenance, catering and bar this limited basis the Centre is the lead- was active in pioneering a network in Alba, work in the larger establishments. More ing region with 55 locations and 258 ATFs, Harghita, Mureş and Suceava coordinated income might be generated from souve- with a broad equality between the North by the Focus EcoCenter in Târgu Mureş. nirs, guided tours and publications: ar- East (32 and 61), North West (37 and 71), Other Initiatives included an American guably each locality requires a cluster of South East (34 and 78) and South West (26 organisation worked with Prahova Coun- attractions to be selected and developed and 63). The South (including Ilfov) fol- ty Agricultural Consulting Office to stim- through local consultation and included lows (17 and 42) while the West has only a ulate agrotourism for rural development in the marketing effort. Both NARET and token respresentation through four pen- in the Doftana valley where 24 households OVR should perhaps give more attention sions located in two Hunedoara villages. formed a local association in 2000. The du- to local organisations and promotion of In Table 2 an attempt is made to integrate plication of NGOs was in some ways un- endogenous local and regional ‘self-reliant’ rural tourism into the pattern of larger re- fortunate in introducing an element of ri- development. However, the business was sorts. It combines locations into groups valry and tension, but this is indicative of a by no means evenly spread even among that were prominent in the first catalogue: lively grass-roots interest. What is impor- the 23 counties in which Naret was active Bran-Moeciu (225 ATFs) and a group of tant is that Antrec and OVR together pro- by the end of 1996. With only 11.4% percent others with 20-50 each – Arieşeni, Bargau vide a viable base for cooperation with the of the Carpathian centres, Braşov county Valley, Dorna, Iza Valley, Lazarea, Praid, EU’s Phare programme for the region. Pre- alone had 33.6% of the ATFs in 1998, while Sâncraiu and Vama – and others that have viously the NAMR initiated an agrotour- Alba, Argeş, Bistriţa-Năsăud, Cluj, Cova- developed recently with a cluster of ATFs ism programme in in 1994 in sna, Harghita, Maramureş, Suceava and on the current electronic database: Lepşa- a bid to stabilise the population and it was Vrancea accounted for another 67.6% of , Ponoarele, Rimetea and Rucăr. It claimed that 2,000 peasants has become in- centres and 58.6% of ATFs; leaving Bacău, would be interesting to combine this ma- volved by 1996. A significant contribution Buzău, Gorj, Hunedoara, Prahova, Sibiu terial with mountain chalets and other has also been made by the UK-based Mihai and Vâlcea with only 21.8% of the centres dispersed tourist accommodation but the Eminescu Trust (already referred to) that and 7.8% of the ATFs. There is still strong data for this is not readily available. also arose out of efforts made (from 1987) polarisation although more activity is now Stimulative Measures to increase de- to oppose Ceauşescu’s draconian rural pro- evident in Gorj and Vâlcea; also in Bihor, mand include a continuing programme gramme. The Trust has worked on the ru- Dâmboviţa, Mehedinţi, Mureş and Neamţ of special promotions e.g. the ‘Holidays ral preservation and regeneration and has as well as several counties away from the in the Countryside’ programme, offer- pioneered its ‘whole village projects’ in two Carpathians (Constanţa, Dolj, Galaţi and ing an attractively-priced package for five areas: Mălâncrav (with Criţ, Floreşti, Las- Iaşi), including the Bucharest-Ilfov area nights at ATFs in 40 localities in 16 coun- lea and Roandola) and Viscri (with Buneşti, with houses in Mogoşoaia, Otopeni and ties. Special five-night tariffs have been -of Meşendorf and Roadeş) starting in 1999 Snagov. The millennium programme fered in June at 0.95mln lei for two-daisies and 2000 respectively. Guesthouses are featured Easter celebrations in Braşov/ and 1.05 for three. There are also fairs and now available in Biertan, Cloaşterf, Criţ, Dâmboviţa (Bran-Rucăr) and Maramureş festivals (many with a gastronomic focus Mălâncrav and Viscri with excellent local (Botiza) but there were also special activi- concerned largely, as before, with ‘sarmale’, opportunities for walking and horseriding ties in two less prominent areas (Bihor and pies or brandies). Publicity through CD including a trackway connecting the two Hunedoara). Potential clearly varies ac- was launched at the Rural Tourism Fair clusters between Mălâncrav and Meşendorf. cording to the attractiveness of the cultur- in 1997 while Naret was also involved in a The Trust has also gained the support of al landscape, the scope for recreational ac- seminar valorising the Carpathians (host- UNDP for the integrated development of tivities and the degree of accessibility; also ed by International Tourism Fair of Roma- Sighişoara and the Saxon villages. proximity to large cities. Thus, it is widely nia) in connection with the 2002 Interna- appreciated that the Bran-Rucăr corridor tional Year of the Mountains. There have DEVELOPMENT OF THE NETWORK. is a zone of particular opportunity. been efforts to stimulate interest abroad Romanian sources quoted a total of 18,500 The target (announced in 1996) was for through Naret representatives in Chicago visitors for the NARET network in 1995, in- accommodation in 8,500 rural households and , while marketing in the USA has cluding 3,500 foreign tourists each staying by 2000, but this has proved wildly opti- used the websites of American travel com- six nights on average, with average tariff mistic with the present figure of only 2,500 panies to advertise 100 ATFs from Braşov, of $12.5/night, indicating a total income of reduced to some 577 (in 202 localities) in Maramureş, Neamţ, Suceava and Vâlcea in $280,300 from foreigners. Most farms fin- terms of ATFs that have computers and in- 1999. Maramureş carpenters - erecting tra- ished up with fewer than 200 visitors dur- ternet access enabling them to enter the ditional gateways - attended the Smithso-

ing the year (with almost all staying less electronic database and provides a ‘quali- nian Folklife Festival in 1999. Meanwhile, 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica 63 Alternative Tourisms in Romania: The Role of Culture and Ecology

Table 2 Tourist resorts

Resorts by category Resorts of national importance by name (category ‘d’ except where Region a b c d e otherwise stated Arieşeni(e),Băile Tuşnad, Bălvănyos, *, , Bran-Moeciu(e), Covasna, Izvorul Mureşului(b), Lacu Roşu(b), Lazarea(e), Malnaş-Băi, Pârâul Rece(b), Păltiniş(b), Centre 0 8 33 27 5 Poiana Braşov (b), Praid(e), Predeal(b), Rimetea(e), Rodbav, Sâncrăeni, , Timişul de Sus(b), Vâlcele, Vârghis, Zizin Agapia (b), Bălţăteşti, Dorna (e), Durău (b), Şaru Dornei, Slănic-Moldova, Vama (e), North East 0 5 12 8 2 Vatra Dornei Băile Felix, Băile 1 Mai, Bârgău Valley(e), Borşa, Iza Valley(e), Sâncraiu(e), Sângeorz- North West 0 1 23 5 3 Băi, Săpânţa, Stâna de Vale (b), Tinca Amara*, Azuga(b), Breaza(b), Buşteni(b), Cheia(b), Poiana Tapului(b), , South 0 9 8 5 1 Rucăr(e), Sinaia(b), Slănic , Balta Albă, Cap Aurora(a), Constanţa(a), Costineşti(a), Nord(a)*, Eforie South East 15 0 8 1 1 Sud(a)*, Jupiter(a), Lepşa-Tulnici(e), (a), , Năvodari(a), Neptun(a)*, Olimp(a), Sărata Monteoru, Saturn(a), Soveja, (a), Venus(a) Băile Govora, Băile Olănesti, Căciulata, Călimăneşti, Ocnele Mari, Ponoarele(e), South West 0 2 9 2 1 Rânca(b), Săcel, Voineasa(b) Băile Herculane, Buziaş, Călacea, Crivaia(b), -Băi, Lipova, , Muntele West 0 6 10 0 0 Mic(b), Trei Ape(b), Vaţa de Jos Total 15 31 103 48 13 a: seaside; b: mountain resorts; c: spas; d: ditto, coinciding with a mountain interest (seaside in the South East); e: agrotourism (national interest only and not including mountain chalets). Centres asterisked offer mud treatment Sources: Ghinea 1993 and NARET website mprovement in quality has been sought opment Agency and an organisation ‘Aid 2000; Turnock 1999) follows the National through a national school of manageri- to Artisans’ through a fair at the Bucha- Agency for Tourism programme for 2001-4 al training at Bran with teachers provid- rest Village Museum. Groups of craftsmen in emphasising the potential for rural tour- ed through collaboration with Dima Con- need to contribute ‘standard’ products and ism in the Apuseni, Bucovina, submontane sulting, Transilvania Univerity, Bucharest so generate large volumes appropriate for Oltenia, before giving rather more detail to Academy of Economic Studies, Bucharest mail order firms distributing catalogues other NAT priorities: Maramures, the na- Agricultural Institute, Ministry of Tour- e.g. carpets, wooden bowls or painted eggs tional parks of Retezat and Piatra Craiului ism, Krontour Travel Agency Braşov, Ana (while ceramics are problemetic for the and also the Danube Delta Biosphere Re- Hotels and Eurogîtes in 2001 alone. And in American market because of the lead con- serve which lies outside the mountain re- a bid to remain competitive standard tar- tent in glazes that infringe US standards). gion. Opportunities are very evident in the iffs have been abandoned so that in 2002 Schools are being involved in ecological Apuseni through the OVR ‘reţea turistică’ two-daisy establishments were making patrols, while school pupils’ holiday facil- in Alba’s Arieş valley between Albac, Gâr- daily charges of €8-15 for a room and €8- ities (‘tabere’) are being used more widely da de Sus and Arieşeni, but there are also 12 per person for full board, rising to €15- for tourism out of season, with job oppor- good facilities in Cluj county along the 30 and €10-15 respectively in the case of a tunities for retired teachers through a Na- Oradea road as far as Huedin and Ciu- three/four daisy classification. It is fortu- tional Agency of School Camps & Tourism. cea and also in some of the villages to the nate that many ATFs can be contracted Antrec does not have funds to subsidise the south of this axis (Petrea 2004). While the electronically and there is great deal of ma- creation of new ATFs, but the Romanian valley slopes are thickly wooded the high terial that can accessed on the Internet in Fund for Social Development seeks to re- platforms were cleared for agriculture addition to the NARET website www.an- lieve poverty by financing projects in poor through heavy population pressure in the trec.ro (Ilieş & Ilieş 2006). rural communities, while in 1999 NAT of- early modern period, providing extensive- The rural tourism offer has been criti- fered credits of up to 200mln.lei for five ly panoramas across rolling meadowlands cally examined by Benedek & Dezsi (2006). years (up to half the investment value) at a extending to 2,000m. Interest lies in the Developing activities include the pro- preferential interest rate equal to inflation karst scenery featuring many caves among motion of tourist itineraries linked with - to develop or update accommodation in- which the most remarkable is ‘Gheţarul NARET accommodation e.g. in the Sub- cluding entertainment facilities and infra- Scărişoara’ at a height of 700m where a carpathians (featuring the Buzău mud vol- structure; and - specifically for rural tour- 4,000 year old ice block survives in a great canoes) and ecologically important areas ism - BancPost credits have allowed some ‘hall’ within a cave system some 50m below like the Danube delta, Piatra Craiului and 50 existing pensions to develop and up- ground. The scope for ‘adventure tourism’ Retezat. Rural tourism is also being linked grade. Currently there are good opportu- in remote has been demonstrated by Green with hiking and cycling (the latter popular nities through SAPARD. Finally, an eco- Mountain Holidays promoted by a Belgian especially among Germans visiting Tran- tourism strategy was formulated in 2004 businessman. The domestic architecture of sylvania). Work with NAT aims to boost (by D.Dumbrăveanu) two years after UNO dispersed settlements - and a local cuisine SMEs in rural tourism concerned with and the World Tourism Organisation had that includes ‘balmos’ (pancakes made ecological-agricultural products; hand- declared 2002 the ‘Year of Ecotourism’. from flour or potato) - has been highlight- icrafts and souvenirs; natural medicines ed by refurbishment projects undertak- and Gerovital clinics. Handicraft skills AN OVERVIEW OF CARPATHIAN en by the Open University of Nürnberg need preservation but also some market- RURAL TOURISM (Ielenicz & Dumb- which has done much to promote ecot-

Geographica Pannonica 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica ing expertise, with help from USA Devel- raveanu-Andone 1997; Petrea & Patrea ourism linked with Europe’s natural habi- 64 David Turnock

tats. With the cooperation from Albamont again grounded in a distinct domestic ar- potters from all parts of the country. There over signposting, the director of the Rural chitecture - is catered for by the Bucovina are also carpet makers and furriers. And Foundation of Romania, Bernard Houli- Ethnographic Museum in Suceava, dat- given the main roads running parallel to at, has launched 30 tourist intineraries to ing to the 1970s with a 6.0ha open-air sec- the mountain axis itineraries can easily access isolated villages ‘far from the mad- tion containing representative houses and extend from Vâlcea through Gorj to Dolj dening turmoil of modern civilisation’. workshops (also by local house museums and Mehedinţi with Naret publicity cov- The mining history is laid out through the at Bilca and Solca). The economic history ering such themes as hunting and fishing, gold museum in Brad (developing from an is bound up with agriculture and forestry fortified manor houses and other histori- 1890s collection of mine flowers) and a col- with mining relatively restricted. The local cal themes such as banditry and witchcraft. lection of processing equipment at Roşia tradition of egg painting has been assist- Further west, rural tourism in Mehedinţi Montană where there is also access to Ro- ed through an interesting initiative by the has developed around Baia de Aramă (in- man underground workings. But it is per- British Embassy help - following the initial cluding the natural bridge of Ponoarele) haps the wood-based economy that is all- coordination by a British language/litera- and in the Danube defile (Cazanele Envi- pervasive through local handicrafts and ture specialist based in Suceava’s Ştefan cel ronmental Reservation). There is also de- the domestic production of planks (‘scân- Mare University - through creating a Bu- veloping cooperation over Subcarpathi- duri’) marketed by lorry or cart in the sur- covina Egg Painters’ Association linked an tourism extending along the mountain rounding lowlands. Damage through over- by computer with potential purchasers axis easterns around the Carpathian ‘bend’ cutting and pollution of rivers through the abroad and so increase sales beyond the as far as Buzău and Vrancea. careless handling of sawdust points to the local market. importance of income from tourism to Oltenia. There is also considerable po- Major protected areas limit dependence on the forests whether it tential lying much closer to Bucharest with MARAMUREŞ BIOSPHERE RESERVE be for timber or secondary products like a cultural-religious basis provided by the (Dezsi et al. 1999) has seen much activity mushrooms and berries. At the same time Vâlcea monasteries such as Arnota, Bis- under OVR auspices at Vadu Izei on the tourism has its dangers evident in the rash trita, Cozia, Govora and Horezu, not to edge of the town of Sighetul Marmaţiei of second homes in the Someş Cald val- mention the Râmnic Bishopric in Râm- and villages further east along the Iza ley, the growing popularity of caving and nicu Vâlcea dating to the seventeenth- valley such as Botiza and Sălistea de Sus the threat to speleological patrimony from nineteenth centuries with walls painted by (Turnock 2002a; 2002b). The area also of- souvenir hunters, the threat to forests from Gheorghe Tattarescu and Grigore Zugravu. fers small hotels and a high-quality guest- piste development for winter sports (rath- Several monasteries offer accommodation house run by nuns in a section of the new er than cross-country skiing) (Buza et al. while a network of ATFs has developed monastery of Bârsana. Accessibility in 2001; Surd & Turnock 2000). in 24 locations with four significant clus- this frontier region has improved thanks Bucovina attracted foundation work by ters: Dubova and Ponoarele (Mehedinţi) as to more open frontiers with (in- OVR in Vama and the NARET catalogue well as Novaci and Tismana (Gorj). Some cluding regular local rail services at Câm- now shows that the business is well-estab- are situated in isolated positions e.g. the pulung and Valea Vişeului - as well as a lished in the Dorna area (Dorna Arinilor, Stroie family pension in a new building in new road bridge between Sighet and Sla- Dorna Cândrenilor, Poiana Stampei and the Olăneşti valley on land obtained from tina - which help Romanian communi- Şarul Dornei) as well as Vatra Moldoviţe in former cooperative farm immediately af- ties ‘stranded; north of the Tisa (Boar 1999; Suceava county. In this well-wooded coun- ter the revolution. Rural tourism has pre- 2001). This is a well-forested area where try - sometimes known as ‘Little Switzer- viously been tied mainly to chalets in the wood-working is prominent tradition in land’ and, complemented in the adjacent Cozia, Lotru and Parâng Mountains (Vâl- addition to the modern factory-based saw- county of Neamţ by scenic areas of Bicaz, cea) - where conservation issues are much milling. When the CoE combined with Ceahlău and Durău - the potential lies debated, especially with Cozia designated the culture ministry over ‘The European first and foremost in the historical, reli- a national park (Ploaie & Turnock 2001) - Roads of Wood’ project - seeking the coop- gious and cultural value of the monaster- and small resorts like Rânca and Voinea- eration of governments and NGOs in a Eu- ies. In 2000 Philippe François stimulated sa where further growth is likely, especial- ropean organisation to preserve cultural interest from the French government, UN, ly at Rânca (1,600m) above Novaci where patrimony represented by wood and revi- UNESCO and EU for the concept ‘The Nat- many new villas are now appearing and talise traditional wood handicrafts in con- ural & Regional Park of Bucovina’s Mon- commercial investments are being made junction with museums and rural tour- asteries’ as an international multi-cultural by companies from Gorj and surrounding ism networks - the first meeting of experts project, while further attention was gener- areas that could make this resort the ‘Pearl took place in Maramureş in 2000. The ex- ated in 2003 by an international ‘Putna 500’ of the Parâng’ especially if the road north- tensive use of finely-carved wood is ev- programme for $30mln of spending on in- wards to Sebeş is reconstructed. Howev- ident not only in the housing but also in frastructure to celebrate 500 years since er a complementary ATF-based tourism traditional industrial installations usual- the death of Ştefan cel Mare in 2004, a Me- can bring visitors closer to the local ver- ly based on water power. In the Cosău val- dieval Moldavian prince who contribut- nacular featuring Brâncovan arches and ley where almost 100 installations existed ed substantially to the patrimony. Neamţ drinks comprising brandies, fruit juices in the early 20th century only 28 were still also has its monasteries although (with- and wines. Other historical perspectives working 1973 in Budeşti, Călineşti and Sâr- out the exterior frescoes that are a strik- arise through Roman camps including a bi when interdisciplinary research started ing feature of many in Bucovina) giving reconstruction at Cozia and contemporary - and there are now fewer still because of rise to a growing ‘ecumenical tourism’ at native fortresses such as . Eth- decreasing self-sufficiency in the villages; Agapia and Varartec. Meanwhile Dorna nography is conserved through the Col- although some rehabilitation is being sup- and Rarău offer a good basis for mountain lection of Ethnography & Folk Art at Bu- ported by the Carpathian Euroregion as tourism with conventional activities sup- joreni and the Wine Museum at Drăgăsani part of a programme for ‘Peasant Technol- plemented by rafting on the Bistriţa, or- and through entertainment at traditional ogy: Heritage of Millennium III’ (Plate 7). ganised once again (since 2003) from Vatra fairs such as Polovragi. Ceramics are still Wood carving skills are also well-demon- Dornei on the challenging Broşteni-Cru- produced at Horezu where the ‘Cocoşul strated at Săpânţa where Ioan Pătraş start-

cea and Zugreni sections. Ethnography - de Hurez’ or Hurez Cock festival attracts ed making oak memorial crosses for the 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica 65 Alternative Tourisms in Romania: The Role of Culture and Ecology

finance from GEF ($5.5mln), supplement- ed by $2.4mln from the Romanian govern- ment and $0.9mln from the NFA. The Re- tezat is a remote alpine region reserved for chamois hunting by the Hungarian Ken- deffy family until land reform opened up the area to grazing in 1923. However there was sporadic logging from the 1880s with transport by floating on the Lăpuşnicul Mare assisted by water stored above wood- en dams (‘zătoni’). There was no proper re- stocking due to difficult working condi- tions and the scarcity of labour - indeed there was some burning to prevent regen- eration in hayfields. Given the new threats and the wider appreciation of the area’s bi- odiversity, a botanic reserve was set up in 1927 leading to the national park in 1935 (13,000ha). Grazing rights continued with some restrictions although forestry was controlled with limits to cutting for fire- wood and fencing and the main threats to woodland arose through fires (as in 1943 Plate 7 A fulling mill for washing blankets in the village of Budeşti (Maramureş county) and 1946) and the avalanche 1994 in the local churchyard in 1935: they were painted from Romania some 70 years ago. Envi- Pietrele and Galeşul valleys. However the in blue and depicted episodes (frequently ronmental hazards arise from heavy defor- nationalisation of forests in 1948 allowed a humorous) from the life of the deceased. estation evident by the 1960s and 1970s and unitary protection regime. The law of 2000 The tradition has been maintained by still a threat in some localities through the set new limits enclosing a much larger area others since the death of Pătraş in 1977 illegal operations of a ‘forest mafia’. There of 38,047ha - with an administration that and the whole cemetery has been restored are also problems through the over-exploi- began to function in that year. thanks to the efforts of a former US ambas- tation of medicinal plants increasing in the This larger area was first proposed by sador James Rosapepe who monitored the 1970s. the Academy’s Biological Sciences Institute work personally. Meanwhile local crafts in 1993 to comprise an ‘bsolutely protected extend to ceramics and textiles (including is rel- area’ of 9,503ha and a buffer of 28,544ha: the use of vegetable dyes) while the folk- atively long-established and is a good ex- a compromise between a larger area of lore is rich in music and dance, with the ample of a mountain area where tourism 54,542ha suggested by MWFEP in 1990 wearing of masks a practice thought to depends heavily on mountain chalets. As and a area even smaller than the existing originate in Geto-Dacian culture. These is thje case of the Piatra Craiului NP (see limits preferred by the forestry authority traditions are retained through ‘Mara Mu- below) and Vânători-Neamţ forest park concerned about future woodland exploi- sical: European Festival of Fiddle & Coun- management strategies are being devel- tation and the difficulty of protecting graz- tryside Music’ initiated by Bernard Houli- oped with the help of non-reimbursable ing areas effectively. The Retezat was also at with the support of Ministry of Culture and OVR as well as ‘The Museum of the Romanian Peasant’ in Bucharest. Except for the Baia Mare non-ferrous ores and the Sighet saltfield (Coştiui and Ocna Şugatag) mining is relatively recent, but traditional logging methods have been retained in the Vaser valley through the narrow-gauge for- est railway, with steam traction supported by the ‘Traditionszug für die Wassertal- bahn’ project which has financed the over- haul of several locomotives including an Orenstein & Koppel engine of 1911 (Plate 8). Elsewhere there are opportunities to trav- el in road carriages or undertake a don- key safari as far as Prislop Pass and even the Bucovina monasteries. Nature conser- vation is proceeding along the frontier in the Romanian-Ukrainian Biosphere Re- serve for the Maramureş Mountains and also in the Pietroşu Rodnei National Park where the Ecologist Society of Maramureş is spending €400,000 of European mon- ey to repopulate the mountains with the Plate 8 The forest railway in the Vaser valley above Vişeu de Sus (Maramureş county): ‘lammergeyer’: a particularly valuable spe- one of only two systems surviving in a areas that was once use narrow-gauge railways

Geographica Pannonica 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica cies of bearded vulture that disappeared as the principal means of timber extraction 66 David Turnock

established as a biosphere reserve in 1979 with an area of 20,000ha but the bound- aries were never established officially and although the reserve is currently registered at 55,000ha - with central (4,600ha), buff- er (20,000) and transition (30,400) zones - but there are still no legal boundaries and therefore the reserve does not extend effec- tively beyond the national park. The debate over boundaries is perhaps academic be- cause the core of the park is a strictly pro- tected area (where traditional pasturing - largely excluding sheep - is the only eco- nomic activity allowed) which is current- ly only slightly larger that the original park (within which a small area was set aside in 1955 as the 1,620ha Gemenele Scientific Reserve where absolutely no grazing is al- lowed). The rest is a buffer zone that (hope- fully) will be extended eventually through programmes of sustainable development - covering at least the communes of Râu de Figure 2 The Retezat showing proposed new tourist facilities Mori and Sălasu de Sus as well as the Câm- villages (eight communes): it is regulated cal authorities. The GEF blueprint project pu lui Neag area (within the town of Uri- by the local authorities (apart from a short was initiated in 1997 for the 2000-6 peri- cani): this would increase the total area to period during 1986-90 when forestry dis- od, building on the national biodiversi- 102,000ha (Figure 2) trict offices set precise limits that were gen- ty conservation strategy and action plan Forest Management. 1.04th.ha of erally respected) and there a tendency to of 1996 (prepared with GEF/World Bank woodland within the park now belongs overgraze through the ‘contracting out’ of support). At national level, capacity builds to communities as ‘camposesorate’ and pastures in the 1970s and again since 1990 on the MWFEP’s National Forestry Agen- 19.48th.ha of alpine grazings also belong with sheep allegedly brought in from as far cy that established Retezat National Park to surrounding communities who use the afield as Hungary. It is now important to re- Administration as a sub-unit in 1999. GEF Retezat for grazing, agriculture, fruit and establish effective grazing limits through has helped establish proper boundaries wood, although pressure is moderated by consultation and prevent further destruc- and functional zones. the poor infrastructure (including a lack tion of brushwoods comprising the Car- There is a dilemma over grazing be- of information and modern communi- pathian pine (Pinus mugho). There is also a cause it is essential to maintain the present cations), an ageing of the population less need for unitary management to overcome vegetation in the protection zone, but committed to traditional products, and a the separate interests of (a) scientific work without heavy pressure. Yet this is not eco- lack of both development funds and inte- associated with the Romanian Academy’s nomically feasible and communities would grated sustainable development strategies Commission for Natural Monuments; (b) like the park to buy the land, perhaps with (Plate 9). However, grazing is a major con- forestry, along with hunting and fishing; EU subsidies helping in future. Howev- cern given the common rights held by 23 (c) alpine grazings administered by lo- er in the buffer zone where higher stock- ing levels are possible, cooperation with local communities has been greatly assist- ed by a small grant programme funded by GEF and, to maintain goodwill, it is con- sidered important that funding should be taken over after 2006 by others (perhaps the EU). There is a threat from the pro- jected Uricani-Băile Herculane road that may isolate the Vâlcan Mountains from the Retezat/ massif and encour- age a ‘ring’ of second home/tourism de- velopment around the park (as in the Tat- ra). Tourist pressure is broadly sustainable apart from damage through ‘wild tourism’ e.g. dumping rubbish and the cutting of Pinus mugho by fishermen for campfires. New chalets are proposed for Bucura in the core within the perimeter constellation of Gura Zlata, Gura Apei, Pietrele and Băleia - and link routes with Vâlcan (Oslea mo- tel), Godeanu (Gugu) and Poiana Mărului (Sauă Iepei) - also motel Corcoaia at Cer- na Sat (Niculescu 2004): part of a national Plate 9 Sheep are traditionally kept at grazing stations (‘stâne’) on the high ground programme to expand chalets and main- during the summer months although this example features the Subcarpathians of tain/develop paths. More conventional ru-

Buzău county ral tourism accommodation is available in 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica 67 Alternative Tourisms in Romania: The Role of Culture and Ecology

the commune centres and the larger vil- tives for community association and then be reduced tolerance for carnivores and in- lages. on-going consultations will be needed be- creased interest in the propagation of pre- tween communities and the forest admin- ferred game species like deer. However, if PIATRA CRAIULUI NATIONAL istration. Leases for extraction of non-tim- an infrastructure of pensions and services PARK (Ioraş et al. 2001; Muică et al. 1999) ber forest products should be considered: can be built up, and if money generated by is one of 16 national and natural parks de- some activities could be increased because the hunting business goes at least in part clared since 1989. Situated in Argeş and although mushrooms, ‘menta’ (teaplants) to the community and not just to the for- Braşov counties, it has exceptional scenic and raspberries are collected by local peo- est administration, large carnivores could and biodiversity value although the flo- ple, only casual use is made of medicinal benefit mountain communities through ra and fauna are under threat from agri- and other edible plants that might find ecotourism is to the benefit of local people. cultural, forestry and tourism pressures. A niche markets. Small logging and sawmill- This will then increase support for their 25km limestone and conglomerate massif, ing enterprises should be capable of har- conservation. So ecotourism that address- with steep slopes and moving scree on ei- vesting unusual species and adding value es large carnivores among other things has ther side connects the Bucegi and Făgăraş through joinery, furniture production or a great potential in Romanian regional de- to the east and northwest respectively. the processing of mill offcuts. velopment. It is attractive to rural dwellers There is a central role for forest manage- Grazing Pressure has been increasing as a means of upgrading accommodation ment involving certification and the crea- for sheep numbers exceed the optimum and providing infrastructure the commu- tion of forest user groups and community carrying capacity ten times: the popula- nity can enjoy throughout the year. The woodlands to reconcile conflicting inter- tion of some villages is double the level of Bran-Moeciu area has a flourishing rural ests in the forests and in wood process- the 1920s, while unemployment is increas- tourism business, although it is related to ing. Forest user groups (‘Asociaţii ale ing the level of dependence on small fam- mountain scenery in general, but relative- Proprietărilor de Pădure’: APP) are being ily farms. The high pastures are no long- ly little has developed in the Zărneşti area formed by combining individual restitu- er as rich as they were: after about 60 closer to the Piatra Craiului. tion parcels. Following the ten year forest- days of grazing (out of a season that may Rural Tourism. Aftwer the first trav- ry management plans, the forest resources last from 90-140 days, depending on the el group arrived in 1995, a local pension could be managed sustainably and deliver length of the previous winter) there are opened in 1998 and two other families are to the APP members firewood, construc- drastic changes in soil characteristics. The now involved. So far costs exceed benefits tion wood or cash (according to their pref- high meadows are exhausted and sheep are but a growth in tourism could tip the scales erences). The involvement of communities forced into the forests where the vegetation and this would be particularly valuable in in forest management is now considered a is richer in nutrients and water content. As Zărneşti where there is high unemploy- realistic option to avoid fragmentation and they disperse they become less well pro- ment (Plate 10). The tourist agency started retain the forest as a complex and valua- tected by the dogs are fall an easy prey to in 2000 and the local ‘Asociaţie de Ecotur- ble natural resource system while allowing large carnivores. The situation can only get ism Plăiuri Zărneştene’ (AEPZ) started in decentralisation so that local interests to worse if peasants continue to expand their the same year. There is now an attempt to set benefit in terms of income for poverty-al- flocks following a growth in the number of up a horse-riding centre in the Bârsa Valley leviating wood consumption. Communi- livestock using the massif pastures from linked with AEPZ so that the families pro- ty involvement could be secured through 800 to 1,500 animals during 1989-1996 viding accommodation will have a direct in- constructive participation in generating alone. Clearly, new and more efficient ways terest, with other options being provided by wood products that could be marketed on of livestock protection will be necessary: rock climbing and survival training. A ‘Vi- the basis of quality and certification of sus- electric fences (which seem promising af- sion for Zărneşti 2020’ adopted by the town tainable management, although govern- ter limited experiments) or breeding im- council in 1999 envisaged sustainable tour- ment may well need to offer financial incen- proved guard dog. Meanwhile there may ism based on local family businesses, sus- tainable industry and agro-forestry; also the maintenance of specific local architectural characteristics and protection for zones of high ecological value adjacent to the nation- al park, like the Bârsa Valley when a plan- ning application for a granodiorite quarry was rejected. A key issue however is a large carnivore centre (LCC) - on the Bavarian Forest National Park model - where visitors can get information and enjoy a wildlife en- closure. The LCC would have an exhibition and lecture hall; rooms for each animal and another set up as a shepherd camp; also en- closures for captive-bred carnivores and their prey species (including deer and wild boar), and a nature trail along with souvenir shops and catering facilities. Even so, more ‘capacity’ is needed to make conservation an important local issue and secure appropri- ate landuse planning in the sensitive Bâr- sa valley above Zărneşti where the mead- ow vegetation is particularly important. It is also relevant to add that the resort of Bran- Plate 10 The village of Poiana Mărului in Braşov county: one of a cluster of villages Moeciu lies on the margin of this area and

Geographica Pannonica 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica catering for rural tourism in the Perşani and Piatra Craiului Mountains is endowed with the major historic build- 68 David Turnock

ing of Bran Castle given to Queen Marie in 1920, seized by the communists in 1948 and restituted to Dominic de Habsburg in 2006. The castle has been maintained as a highly popular museum in recent years is highly relevant for Dracula tourism be- cause although the locale for Bram Stok- er’s novel lies well to the north in Bistriţa- Năsăud county, the castle has associations with Medieval Wallachian prince Vlad Tepeş who was clearly a source of inspi- ration. It is hoped that the castle will re- main available permanently as a tourist as- set although the new owner’s offer of sale to Braşov County Council for €60mln has not been taken up.

THE DANUBE DELTA comprises a range of ecosystems within a complex of backwaters and sandbanks (nourished by river alluvia) through which flow the three arms of the Danube: Chilia, Suli- na and Sf. Gheorghe. It has great impor- tance for birds through the breeding, feed- ing and resting places available at the intersection of the main European migra- tion routes (Figure 3). Over 300 bird spe- cies are to be found (with some 175 perma- nently present): arctic geese, cormorants, pelicans (including the endangered Dal- matian Pelican), white herons and birds of prey including the threatened Imperi- al Eagle. The delta has been exploited for fishing and navigation (in addition to sub- sistence farming by a scattered and eth- nically-diverse population that includes a Lipovan minority descended froşşm eight- eenth century Russian and Ukrainian ref- ugees) but most threatening have been the large-scale exploitations for agriculture, reed harvesting and timber dating back to the late 1930s and intensified under com- Figure 3 The Danube Delta munism. Across the delta 97.4th.ha were dyked by 1990 with another 40.0th.ha in wider problem of eutrophication. The agri- destroyed the vegetation. The water sys- the course of preparation for agriculture, culture programme was complemented by tem that favoured pike and tench was de- out of a total wetland complex of 180.0 in plantations of Canadian poplar that dis- graded while bream, roach, Prussian carp Romania and Ukraine (Marin & Schneider placed willow trees from the river banks and zander became dominant: there was a 1997). Results were disappointing since the and replaced from the natural oakwoods very big rise in Prussian carp after 1972 and peaty ground was found to be unsuitable of Caraorman and Letea. This meant con- bream from 1980, while perch and tench for agriculture (though the alluvial ground siderable losses of natural vegetation and were virtually eliminated by 1985 and pike was good) and poor performance has to be faunal associations in the interest of eco- by 1990. There was also some industri- seen in the context of high development nomic efficiency. al pollution from Tulcea while some fish costs and the loss of natural habitat. This Meanwhile, the water flow and sediment spawning grounds were affected by sedi- was particularly unfortunate at Sireasa load declined (the latter barely 30mln.t/yr mentation and eutrophication linked with where development resulted in the loss of during the 1980s but 67mln.t before 1960) sand mining at Caraorman. Reference may small lakes surrounded by reeds and hy- - hence the accelerated erosion along the also be made to damage from waste wa- drophytic plant associations and mead- Black Sea coast. The Sulina-Sf.Gheorghe ter, inappropriate tourism and heavy met- ows interspersed with willow trees (very defensive barrier as well as the Crişan- al pollution linked with the wars in former different from the landscapes associated Caraorman Canal (to move mine produc- Yugoslavia (Gâştescu 1993). Hunting be- with the large lacustrine complexes fur- tion) in turn influenced water flow and the came more important as the deer popula- ther east). The natural landscape was blot- evolution of ecosystems (Driga & Gâştescu tion increased but burning (noted in 1993) ted out: there was an irreversible drying- 1997; Gâştescu et al. 1999). And as the lat- to deny refuge for the deer damaged the out of peatland followed by luxuriant weed ter were threatened by the river’s rising nu- floral habitats and their associated fauna. growth. There was also ecological damage trient load from the 1970s, eutrophication Formal protection began with Letea For- through over-grazing and the discharge of through the growth of green algae reduced est in 1938 and the protected area reached fertiliser into the drainage system, encour- transparency and the reduction in dis- 40.0th.ha by 1961, including wetlands like

aging the accumulation of algae and the solved oxygen in the deep water layer has Roşca-Buhaiova and Sacalin-Zătoane that 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica 69 Alternative Tourisms in Romania: The Role of Culture and Ecology

sheltered pelican colonies (although there thority at Uzlina and a baseline was agreed published in 2000 and a Lower Danube was no immunity from the exploitation for restoration by various organisations Green Corridor (LDGC) concept agreed going on roundabout since the Pardina (including IUCN and WWF) emphasis- by Bulgaria, Moldova, Romania and farming project lay adjacent to the Roşca- ing the importance of the hydrological re- Ukraine in the same year: the ultimate aim Buhaiova reserve). The water surfaces in gime and need for all restoration projects is to extend the LDGC to floodplains in all the delta shrank by 10% between the 1960s to be closely interrelated (Pascariu 1997). 12 Danubian countries to show how they and 1990s reflecting the scale of degrada- By 1993, after inspections involving the can serve their natural functions - linked tion. In 1991 the delta became a Ramsar Danube Delta Research & Design Institute, with a ‘living river’ - in terms of biodiver- site and UNESCO recognised the Dan- Auen-Institut Rastatt and the Directorate sity conservation and provision of resourc- ube Delta Biosphere Reserve (DDBR) af- General for Public Works & Water Man- es (water, fish and wood). The aim is to sup- ter it was formally approved by the Roma- agement in Flevoland (The Netherlands), plement 400,000ha of existing protected nian parliament. It covers 5,912sq.kms and a restoration programme was agreed for areas with 100,000ha of newly protected includes 18 strictly protected areas of lit- Babina-Cernovca, Dunavăţ-Holbina and areas with some 250,000ha of priority sites tle-disturbed wetland and woodland eco- Furtuna, while the southern part of Pardi- for restoration (some of which are includ- systems amounting to 526sq.kms (8.7% of na was also proposed unofficially. With the ed in the previous two categories) to create the total). There are also 13 buffer zones for backing of Workd Bank-GEF as well as the a continuous corridor. the protection area totalling 2,233sq.kms Romanian government and WWF Interna- Sustainable Development is being pur- (38.5%) and 3,061sq.kms (52.6%) of eco- tional, WWF Germany took responsibility sued by developing traditional activities in nomic zones comprising lakes and chan- for Babina-Cernovca involving two small the context of trans-frontier cooperation nels, bars and embankments, agriculture- islands in the Chilia channel which had with Moldova and Ukraine. Farmers must forestry-fishing areas and settlements. An been transformed by the dyking that start- not use fertilisers in hunting and fishing administrative régime was stabilised in ed in 1985 at Babina (2,200ha) and 1987 at areas in the interest of conserving biodi- 1993 and the following year WB-GEF pro- Cernovca (1,580ha) with the aim of replac- versity. Hunting is licensed only on agri- vided $4.5mln to enhance capacity for bio- ing the fishing-reed cutting economy (with cultural land and efforts are being made to diversity management. some forestry and wildfowl hunting) by control poaching in the Danube meadows. Ecological Recovery involved an in- agriculture (Bandacu et al. 1993). Cernovca It is important to ease pressure on the fish ternational effort supported by the World was earmarked for rice growing - with the stock, since the fish catch fell from 16,000t Conservation Union, WWF and the groundwater level lowered by a network of in 1986, to 12,000 in 1991 and 2,400 in 2002 French Cousteau Foundation. An interna- drainage ditches (main and secondary ca- before levelling off. To help recovery, Tul- tional centre for education and training in nals) and pumping stations - but conver- cea Chamber of Commerce started pro- environmental protection has been set up sion work was never completed and only moting fishing industry technology (in- at Uzlina (on the Sf.Gheorghe Channel op- the western part was ever ploughed. The cluding ocean fishing) by in the late 1990s posite Independenţa (Murighiol). This will island consisted mainly of agriculturally and altogether there were 1,723 licensed provide a valuable basis for the tourist in- unusable marshland, while high evapora- fishermen and 123 commercial companies dustry over the longer term. Three percent tion led to salinisation - through lack of in- fishing in the delta in 2002, with fishing of the delta is set aside for ecological resto- undation - meaning that the soil was only areas leased according to fish quality, the ration: at Babina-Cernovca, Dunavăţ-Hol- suitable for grazing. WWF found that the operator’ investment power and local job bina, Furtuna and Pardina (Gâştescu 1996) islands comprised embankments around creation. Incomes have been boosted by and water preservation strategies are an- depressions with lakes (‘ghioluri’), small subsidies to fishermen: in 2005 40,000lei/ other essential component of the DDBR watercourses dry in summer (‘japsche’) kg for sturgeon; 12,000 for perch/sheat and management plan and a new outlet to the and areas of gleyed soils that were tempo- 10,000 pike for over 100kg/species at one sea from the Caraorman Depression may rarily flooded during March-April. delivery. The National Fish Stock Corpora- be needed (Gâştescu 1995). But tradition- With the encouragement from the tion is releasing sturgeon fries from Brateş al activities are also supported in the inter- Chilia Veche commune, seeking improved hatchery (Galaţi) to repopulate the Dan- ests of improved living standards for the fishing and grazing, the polders were ube; and a pilot project to restock Lake local inhabitants. It was unfortunate that opened at Babina in 1994 and Cernovca in Razim with pike and perch has been im- the administration’s capacity could not be 1996 (Paun et al. 1994). There was a rapid plemented by the Lebada private fishing developed quickly enough during 1993-5 to change from terrestrial to aquatic vegeta- association whose fishery station (with fish accept funding and other assistance from tion and more than half of the islands are processing, refrigeration and water purifi- EBRD and IUCN for a programme of ec- now covered with reeds. Fish species in- cation) has been supported by the World ologically sustainable development involv- creased from two in 1993 to 15 in 1995 with Bank. Black Sea fish populations of horse ing the private sector (Goriup 1994; 1995). recovery of the natural species, while the mackerel, grey mullet and blue fish are However steps have been taken to improve avifauna changed dramatically as flooded growing again (though sturgeon, shark the infrastructure of the villages and to de- pastureland was visited by ducks, herons, and plaice sunk to critical minimal lev- velop the Tulcea-Sulina axis with a major pelicans and terns. After a few years of un- els in 2001). But shoals of plaice (recent- refurbishment of Sulina including an air- controlled natural development the islands’ ly thought extinct) have been found in the port and surfaced roads. There has been a natural resources will be returned to the delta. Ukraine’s decision to cut the 8.0km pilot project in sustainable rural tourism, local administration for traditional use: Bystroye Canal in 2004 damaged spawn- with a local association, founded in 1999, sustainable cattle grazing, fishing, hunt- ing grounds (as well as bird nesting areas) which can offer accommodation in typical ing, reed cutting and ecotourism based on not to mention the noise disturbance and houses. There is now a good range of- ac a management plan. Reconstruction so far the dumping of contaminated mud. More- commodation, including small hotels and has generated profits on the investment over a deeper Chilia channel could draw hotel boats, along with information and through increased fishing and tourism. It water from under Letea Forest. interpretation centres. is worth adding that wetland conservation Rural Tourism: Infrastructure. The re- Wetland Rehabilitation has seen WWF has been taking place at various sites along moteness of the settlements means that playing a prominent role since a planning the Danube since 1990 with a coordinated new infrastructure must address the needs

Geographica Pannonica 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica seminar was organised by the DDBR Au- programme facilitated by a Phare project of the local population as well as tourists. 70 David Turnock

The Tulcea-Chilia road is now compete as a stone road, except for 15kms, and is pass- able except in very wet weather (Dobraca & Dobre 2000). But there is a also case for a connection from Sulina to Cardon and the Letea sandbank; also from Tulcea to the Sulina canal settlements. A cell telephone network financed through Phare is serving up to 1,800 subscribers in Crişan, Mahmu- dia, Maliuc, Mila 23 and Murighiol, while drinking water supplies and sewerage are another priority. The expansion of tour- ism raises concerns but the income could help reduce dependence on fishing. Local involvement is crucial in order to protect traditional culture. Mass tourism is obvi- ously ruled out by the priority for conser- vation, not to mention the mosquito prob- lem, but experts now think the delta can accommodate over 130,000 tourists annu- ally - far more than the 36,000 who actu- Plate 11 A traditional fisherman’s house from the Danube Delta photographed in ally arrived in 2001: 20,000 on their own Bucharest’s ‘Village Museum’ and the rest in organised groups. Howev- er this was an increase over the 4,400 Ro- ura holiday homes in the past, the devel- has been inaugurated at Gura Portiţei (be- manians and 9,000 foreigners who arrived opment of a network of family agrotour- tween Lake Razim and the Black Sea) with in 1996, when the reserve authorities im- istical pensions was launched at the end 300 places in log cabins or superior air- posed very severe limits to avoid ecologi- of the 1990s to install a property-owning conditioned buildings, following a €1.1mln cal pressure and approved high tariffs as a population in a rural area where over 60% investment in 2002 by Marian Matache’s discouragement! Since them the tourism do not own their land. Austria has given Pescicola Tour Company that deals with ministry has proceeded with an aggressive $25,000 for the C.A.Rosetti ecotourist pi- fishing and reed processing. There is now campaign to promote the delta’s biodiver- lot zone that covers C.A.Rosetti and four a five-star British-American delta nature sity with information and ecological edu- other villages on the Letea sandbank (Car- resort project for a new luxury ecological cation in 2001 through centres at Crişan don, Letea, Periprava and Sfiştofca). Oth- complex at Parcheş 20kms west of Tulcea, and Sulina as well as Tulcea with World er funding came from the World Bank and accepted by DDBR and Somova commune. Bank and EBRD co-finance and help from Tulcea CC. Up to $5.0mln has been invested since 2003 Germany’s Rastatt Institute. Rural Tourism: New Projects. Tour- in a village of bungalows on a 15ha site with As a large administrative centre ap- ist statistics which show a growth in ca- a wide range of facilities (restaurant, bar, proaching 100,000 inhabitants, with hotels pacity from 565,000 bed-nights in 1994 to disco, club, sports and riding) as well as a and the important Danube Delta Muse- 664,000 in 1995, but then a slide to 333,000 private beach, a nautical base (with motor um, Tulcea is well-established as the tour- in 2003, while utilisation fell from 26.6 to boats and fishing gear) and watchtowers ist capital of the delta; enjoying road, rail 21.9% during 1994-5 and hovered around (now for ornithologists and photographers and water access as well as domestic serv- the latter figure ever since. There were nev- rather than military guards! ices from the airport at Cataloi. Elsewhere ertheless almost 37,000 visitors in 2003 and The plans were drawn up by a London- tourism is based at hotels/motels at Crişan, 22.6% of them were foreigners. However based architectural company in consulta- Maliuc, Roşu Lake and Sulina - supple- the rural component has grown from just tion with the reserve authority, based on mented in 2002 by the new Teo Hotel on four establishments in 2000 to 27 in 2003, the idea of Indian businessman Dirwak- the Sf.Gheorghe branch near Mahmudia (a offering a total of 310 beds. Accommoda- er Singh. Floating hotels are another fea- 20bln.lei investment); also camping at Ba- tion is frequently provided in the houses of ture, provided for example by the Romani- badag, Crişan and Murighiol. The reserve fishermen at Caraorman, Crişan (a small an-French company ‘Nouvelles Frontières administration supports a rural tourism cluster of six houses), Mila 23, Murighi- Simpaturism’ since 1997 and from 2003 concept of small villas in hotel compounds ol, Niculiţel, Periprava (a base for Letea by Gentila of Câmpia Turzii (a ready- with small boats for sightseeing; also the Forest), Sf. Gheorghe and Sulina - where made clothing company operating a mod- rehabilitation of infrastructure for Sulina, meals of ‘borsch’ (thick soup) and ‘plachie’ ern ship carrying 15-25 people on sever- announced in 2003 after the Danube Del- (cooked fish with onion and oil) are an at- al routes, with financial assistance from ta Friends Foundation proposed the regen- traction (Plate 11). There is also similar ac- grant from Ministry of Development & eration of the town to make best use of the commodation extending further up the Forecasting under the ‘Access Danube Del- cultural patrimony (after the town had pre- Danube valley (, Dunăreni, , ta Programme’). However tourism creates viously been linked with the abortive Eu- Ostrov and ) with a focus on fishing some problems of disturbance through the ropa resort project). A popular strategy is and hunting parties. The local agrotouris- proliferation of motor boats, not to men- to drive to Murighiol and take boats down tical administration is up-beat about the tion the increase in Danube cruise ships the Sf.Gheorghe arm to the Uzlina lake prospects for a shift in emphasis from fish- from just six in 2003 to 150 in 2004 and network. Meanwhile routes from Crişan ing to tourism and seeks World Bank and 400 booked 2005. For example, since 2002 lead to (a) Matiţa and Furtuna lakes and UNESCO assistance for $2.0mln worth of the ministry (through Karpaten Tourism) (b) Caraorman and the Sf.Gheorghe chan- delta projects involving microcredits for has been operating Danube tours in con- nel; also from Jurilovca to the Razim Lake fishing and medicinal herb growing as well nection with Seetours (Germany) who and Gura Portiţei. Against a background as farm tourism. Eden Holiday Village - a own two 3,490t five-star luxury cruise-

of unregulated development of nomenclat- delta tourist base accessible only by boat - ships (‘Rosa Bella’ and ‘Rosa Donna’ - built 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica 71 Alternative Tourisms in Romania: The Role of Culture and Ecology

in Rostock and supplied with furniture in Boar, N. 1999. Turism transfrontalier ma- tainable development (Oradea: Editura Constanţa) offering 10-day €5,000 cruises ramureşean: circulaţie transfrontalieră. Universităţii din Oradea), 45-54. from Passau to Sulina. While it is under- Analele Universităţii din Oradea: Geo- Ioraş, F., Muică, N., Turnock, D. 2001. Ap- standable that the cruise business should grafie 9, 76-80. proaches to sustainable forestry in the be encouraged (in the aftermath of the clo- Boar, N. 2001. Impactul reţelei de trans- Piatra Craiului national park. GeoJour- sures sparked by the Kosovo War) by more port asupra relaţiilor transfrontaliere nal 55, 579‑98. attractive Romanian ports and the ‘Cruis- din spaţiul maramureşean. Comunicări Marin, G., Schneider, E. (eds.) 1997. Eco- es of the Danube’ programme from 2002 de Geografie 5, 525-30. logical restoration in the Danube Del- - with programmes by TUI, Hapag Lloyd, Buza, M., Dimen, L., Pop, G., Turnock, D. ta Biosphere Reserve, Romania (Tulcea: Peter Deilman, Pheonix Reisen and Scyl- 2001. Environmental protection in the DDBRA/WWF). la Tours - there is a danger from exces- Apuseni Mountains: the role of envi- Moldovan, F., Moldovan, V. 1995. Le sive navigation and the powers of the bio- ronmental non‑governmental organi- rôle de l’opération villages roumains sphere reserve authority may not be strong sations. GeoJournal 55, 631‑53. dans la réconstruction rurale. Anale- enough. Dezsi, Ş., Bădărău, A.S., Meier, A. 1999. le Universităţii de Vest din Timişoara: The natural protected areas from Ma- Geographie 5, 62‑71. Conclusion ramureş county: the impact of touristic Muică, N., Roberts, L.A., Turnock, D. 1999. Romania’s tourist industry has struggled activities and principles of developing Transformation of a border region: dis- to reorganise since 1989 and with very lim- sustainable tourism. Analele Universi- persed agricultural communities in ited foreign investment attracted during tătii din Oradea: Geografie 9, 95-104. Braşov county, Romania. GeoJournal the 1990s there were relatively few domes- Dobraca, L., Dobre, S. 2000. Tendinţe ac- 46, 305‑17. tic enterprises with the capital resources to tuală în organizarea spaţiului geografic Niculescu, D. 2004. Revigorarea turismul undertake any radical restructuring. Al- în Delta Dunării. Comunicări de Geo- montan. Revista Geografică 10, 205-9. terative tourisms offered a way forward on grafie 4, 469-76 Nowicki. P. 1998. The Cracow Declaration. the basis of fiscal incentives to invest the Driga, B., Gâştescu, P. 1997. Modificările in: Nowicki, P. (ed.) 1998. The green modest sums required to provide relative- sistemului circulaţiei apei în depresi- backbone of Central & Eastern Europe ly simple accommodation in rural areas; unea Roşu-Puiu-Lumina. Revista Geo- (Tilburg: European Centre for Nature especially given the support of the Roma- grafică 4, 38-45 Conservation), 257-262. nian NGO NARET and foreign assistance Gâştescu, P. 1993. The Danube delta: geo- Paun, A., Curelariu, G., Grigioraş, C. 1994. through OVR and EU Phare. A promising graphical characteristics and ecological Caracterizarea ecopedalogică a ostro- start has been made in several areas and it recovery. GeoJournal 29, 57-67. vului Babina în vedere fundamentarii is clear that there is potential in areas that Gâştescu, P. 1995. Contributions to the masurilor de ameliorare a starii ecolo- are able to develop an identity and bene- coastal zone management of the Roma- gice actuale. Analele Ştiinţifice al Insti- fit from the promotional efforts of foreign nian sector of the Black Sea. Revue Rou- tutului Delta Dunării 3, 275‑80. tourist agencies, especially those specialis- maine de Géographie 39, 71-8. Petrea, R. 2004. Turism rural în Munţii ing in niche tourism. The work being done Gâştescu, P. 1996. The Danube Delta Bio- Apuseni (Oradea: Editura Universităţii in the field of ecological reconstruction sphere Reserve: present state and man- din Oradea). and management in the Danube Delta and agement. Revue Roumaine de Géogra- Petrea, R., Petrea, D. 2000. Turism rural such mountain areas as the Piatra Craiului phie 40, 27-33. (Cluj-Napoca: Presa Universitară Clu- and Retezat should maintain the momen- Gâştescu, P., Driga, B. Ciupitu, D., jeană). tum for growth although there is an im- Chendeş, V. 1999. Modificări în sis- Ploaie, G., Turnock, D. 2001. Public percep- portant opportunity on the domestic front temul circulaţiei apei în depresiunea tion of environment in the mountains of as family incomes increase because more Sireasa-Furtuna. Revista Geografică 6, Vâlcea County. GeoJournal 55, 683-701. Romanian should be encouraged to take 136-44. Surd, V., Turnock, D. 2001. Romania’s Apuse- holidays at home based on the country’s Ghinea, D. 1993. Romania: resorts and spas ni Mountains: a safeguarding a cultural ample cultural and ecological resources. (Bucharest: Editura Enciclopedică). heritage. GeoJournal 50, 285‑304. Goriup, P. 1994. Biodiversity ecological in- Turnock, D. 1999. Path dependency and References vestment and sustainable development sustainable rural tourism in the Roma- Bandacu, D., Moldovan, M., Nichersu, M., in the Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve, nian Carpathians (Leicester: University Paun, A. 1993. Reconstrucţia ecologi- Romania. Ecos 14, 45‑51. of Leicester Department of Geography că de la ipoteze la realitate. Analele Şti- Goriup, P. (eds.) 1995. Management objec- Occasional Paper 41). inţifice al Institutului Delta Dunării 2, tives for biodiversity conservation and Turnock, D. 2002a. Prospects for sustaina- 267‑75. sustainable development in the Dan- ble rural cultural tourism in Maramureş, Benedek, J., Dezsi, Şt. 2006. Rural tour- ube Delta Biosphere Reserve, Romanua Romania. Tourism Geographies 4, 62‑94. ism in Romania: the characteristics (Newbury: Nature Conservation Bu- Turnock, D. 2002b. The Carpathian ecore- of the tourist offer. R.Petrea ed., Ru- reau). gion ‑ a new initiative for conserva- ral tourism and sustainable develop- Ielenicz, M., Dumbrăveanu-Andone, D. tion and rural tourism: the case of ment (Oradea: Editura Universităţii din 1997. The tourist potential of the Car- Maramureş’. Journal of Tourism 5, Oradea), 55-70. pathians. Light, D., Dumbrăveanu D., 21‑39. Bennett, G. 1998. Guidelines for establish- (eds.), Anglo-Romanian geographies: Ureche, C., Ureche, I. 1997. Le tourisme ing the Pan-European Ecological Net- proceedings of the second Liverpool- comme moyen de développement de work in Central & Eastern Europe’: Bucharest Geography Colloquium (Liv- l’espace pluridisciplinaire (Cluj-Napo- P.Nowicki ed., The green backbone of erpool: Liverpool Hope Press), 59-64. ca: Editura Risoprint) ,154-158. Central & Eastern Europe (Tilburg: Eu- Ilieş, M., Ilieş, G. 2006. Rural tourism of Wortthelet, D. ed, 1997, Au pays des vil- ropean Centre for Nature Conserva- Romania presented on www.google.ro’ lages roumains (Bruxelles: Opérations tion), 183-187. : R.Petrea ed., Rural tourism and sus- Villages Roumains). Geographica Pannonica 10/2006 Pannonica Geographica 72