Indigenous from Jens Priewe Indigenous Wines from Italy

A booklet published by the Italian Trade Agency, Berlin

Text: Jens Priewe

3 Contents Introduction 6 What are indigenous varieties? 8 Indigenous grape varieties in Italy 10 Indigenous grape varieties in the international market? 12 Regions 14 Aosta Valley 16 18 Basilicata 20 Emilia Romagna 22 Friuli-Venezia Giulia 24 Calabria 26 28 30 32 Lombardy 34 Le 36 38 Piedmont 40 42 44 Tuscany 46 Trentino/Alto Adige 48 Umbria 50 52

4 5 Indigenous Wines from Italy

taly is one of the world’s major -growing countries. Its taly has one of the largest and most differentiated grape varieties Introduction: I20 regions produce wines that are enjoyed and appreciated in Iin Europe. Some of these varieties can be found throughout almost all countries of the world. Most are pressed from Italian the country while others have only regional or local signifi cance. The future of the grape varieties. These characterise the aroma and taste of the What they all have in common, however, is that they are old, wines. And they make them unmistakable – which plays an often dating back to antiquity, and that they wines that are increasingly important role in a global wine market. sometimes great, and sometimes modest, but are always unique. industry lies in the odern wine consumers seek not only quality but also xperts estimate that another 1,200 varieties are slumbering Mdistinguishing features. They want wines that differ Ein the of Italy that have not yet been analysed and according to the country, winegrowing area and soil. That is catalogued, and are therefore at risk of extinction. “We must fi ght why it is important that Italy not only preserves the diversity to save these ancient and indigenous varieties,” demands Attilio of its grape varieties but also develops them. Grapes are the Scienza, Professor of at the University of Milan. raw material for wine. The future of Italian viticulture in the international wine markets depends on them. ne of the most frequent complaints made by critics, dealers Oand consumers is that wines are becoming increasingly “Italy‘s strengths lie in its round 350 grape varieties are currently cultivated in Italy. uniform throughout the world – including those of a high indigenous grape varieties.” AAround 330 of them are local varieties. They are referred quality. This could eventually lead to the paradoxical situation to as “indigenous” or “autochthonous” varieties to distinguish that, as the quality increases, there is a risk of impoverishing the them from “allochthonous” – i.e. international – varieties, which fl avour and taste. To prevent this, Italy has made it its maxim to Marco Caprai, during the last fi ve decades have been rapidly gaining ground preserve the diversity of its grape varieties. winegrower in Umbria, who is throughout the world, including in Italy: , and for red wines, and Sauvignon helping to preserve blanc for the white varieties. In many places they have displaced the grape variety. the indigenous grapes before they could develop their potential.

6 7 Indigenous Wines from Italy

What are or wine drinkers indigenous grape varieties are often those t is disputable whether they also need to be “created on the Fwhich bear an Italian name. This criterion is however Ispot,” as the ancient Greek word “autòchthon” suggests. indigenous somewhat blurry, as is shown, for example, by Pinot Grigio: the Strictly speaking, no vine would then be autochthonous. All name sounds Italian but the grape variety is in fact Burgundian. forerunners of today‘s cultivated vines were namely brought grape varieties? to Italy by the Greeks and the Phoenicians during antiquity, xperts therefore only refer to grape varieties as being and were then brought by the Romans to the provinces. Eindigenous – or autochthonous – if they have a close, long- Through random crossing with wild vines, mutations and standing connection to the geographical location where they human selection, they have then evolved into what they are grow: we are talking of at least 100 to 150 years. In fact, most today: wines with a close, long-term connection to a specific Italian grape varieties have been cultivated for much longer at geographic location. the locations where they are native today. They have arrived there through trading activities, migration, wars or by accident – often already during the Middle Ages, sometimes during the early modern era, and sometimes as late as the pre-industrial era of the 18th and 19th centuries. There they have prevailed against “Even so-called indigenous the competition offered by other vines. They have adapted to the vines have genetically changed climate and soil conditions. They have survived diseases. And over time. They are not the they have met people’s demands regarding the quality and yield. same vines as before.”

Lorenzo Landi, Tuscan oenologist

8 9 Indigenous Wines from Italy

What role do taly is a country with a great sense of tradition. People have a Giulia, the red Cannonau grape that grows only in Sardinia, Iconsiderable attachment to their towns, villages and country, and the Gaglioppo grape variety from Calabria. indigenous grape just as they do to their customs and traditions and their culture and cuisine. They therefore also defend the typical wines from Nationally indigenous grape varieties: Although these varieties play their respective regions with equal vehemence. For the country’s have a local or regional origin, they are scattered all over the winegrowers, preserving and fostering the native vines is not country. There are many varieties of this type in Italy. The in Italy? just a labour of love but also a survival strategy. The concept of most famous is . Today it can be found almost indigenous grape varieties falls on fertile ground with them. everywhere. It is only regionally indigenous, however, in Tuscany and Emilia Romagna. Other grape varieties of this hese days, grape experts distinguish between three different type include the white and grapes with Ttypes of indigenous grapes. their numerous versions and Moscato grapes, which are also available in countless variations. Locally indigenous grape varieties: These refer to grapes that are only native in one or two provinces within the country o matter which category a grape variety belongs to, “Researching and preserving and therefore also originate from there. Typical varieties in this Nnot everything that is indigenous produces high- indigenous vines also contributes category include the red grape (provinces of Bolzano quality wines. That is why winemakers choose exactly what to greater biodiversity in the and Trento), the white Pignoletto grape (Bologna), the Sicilian is worth preserving. They receive help for this from scientists vineyards.” (provinces of Trapani and Palermo) and the red Tintilia and government institutions. The press is also supporting grape (provinces of Campobasso and ). efforts to achieve biodiversity in the vineyards, which serves not only the environment but also helps to protect entire Elisabetta Foradori, winegrower in Regionally indigenous grape varieties: Grapes in this landscapes. Trentino who is helping to preserve category have been cultivated in an entire region (or even in the Teroldego grape variety. two regions) for centuries. These include, for example, Nero d‘Avola, which is only found in Sicily, , which is used for and is only permitted in Veneto and Friuli-Venezia

10 11 Indigenous Wines from Italy

What role is played talian wine is drunk not only in its own country. It is also ometimes the grape varieties are also explicitly stated on the Ia prominent player in the European and overseas markets. Slabel: del Vulture, dei Castelli di Jesi, by indigenous grape Overall, almost 25 per cent of the Italian bottled wine production d’Asti and Lambrusco di Sorbara. Anyone opening one is exported. of these bottles knows that they taste differently to a or varieties in the a California . They drink a piece of Italy and dream international wine he names of many of these wines contain a clear geographical of sun-kissed landscapes, flowering oleander, secluded medieval Treference. To name a few examples: , Brunello di villages, perhaps about the music of Giuseppe Verdi and the market? Montalcino, Classico, Vino Nobile di , masterpieces of Botticelli, Leonardo and Michelangelo, or about Conero and della . These geographical noisy bars and intimate, bustling trattorias where fresh pasta is names stand for precisely determined grape varieties. Foreign served. In other words they dream about that which constitutes wine drinkers know that they are drinking Sangiovese when they the cultural identity of Italy. reach for a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino, they know how the Montepulciano grape typically tastes when they have Conero in ines from indigenous grape varieties form part of this their glasses, and they know that they have not received Merlot Witalianità. They are more than just wine. They are a when they buy a bottle of Barolo wine. message that states: Get back to the roots, to the authentic, local product. This message is the first step towards the realisation he success of these wines abroad shows that international once formulated by the Slow Food Foundation as follows: “Even Tmarkets are recognising the efforts made to produce top- small, modest wines can have dignity.” “Even small, modest wines quality wines from Italy’s own indigenous grape varieties. The can have dignity.” concept is therefore also reaping success even when consumers are not as familiar with the intricacies of the Italian grape varieties Fondazione Slow Food as the Italians themselves.

12 13 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Abruzzo

bout 90 per cent of the quality wines from Abruzzo are n recent years, the winemakers of Abruzzo have rediscovered Abruzzo Abased on the Trebbiano and Montepulciano grape varieties. Itwo old and forgotten varieties: and The white Trebbiano is a grape variety that is indigenous Passerina. These are also brought to bottle partly as everywhere and nowhere in Italy. There are many varieties of wines and partly blended with other white grape varieties. White it – Trebbiano Abruzzese is one of the better ones. Very rich, They apparently originate from the mountainous areas of the luscious white wines are sometimes produced from it, which are Apennines and are limited to the Abruzzo and Le Marche Cococciola highly popular not only in the region itself but also in Europe and regions. Even more rarely cultivated is the Cococciola variety Passerina America. The variety is also known under the name Bombino that tends to generate high yields but, when correspondingly Pecorino Bianco. The classic red wines from Abruzzo are made from the pruned, also produces white wines that are both excellent and Trebbiano Abruzzese Montepulciano grape. This variety has been indigenous to the unique. Red region (and the neighbouring regions) for more than 300 years. Wines vinifi ed from it as pure seem impetuous and wild Montepulciano during the fi rst sip. Montepulciano is therefore often blended with other varieties such as Sangiovese. In any event, magnifi cent even exciting wines can be obtained from it. Its drawback is that it has still not been fully researched.

14 15 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Aosta Valley

Aosta ocated at the foot of the Mont Blanc massif, Aosta Valley is indigenous white grape variety from the region, however, is Lnot only the smallest region in Italy but also a very special Prié Blanc, which is grown at high altitude near Morgex. The Valley one. It did not join Italy until 1861 and has enjoyed autonomy vines still have their original rootstock, which means that they since 1948. In addition to Italian, French is the offi cial language are ungrafted. Some people also include Petite Arvine among White spoken there. , which was fi rst introduced by the the indigenous varieties, which is known from the neighbouring Romans, is a small but important industry. The wine is grown Valais region. However, claims that it originates from the Aosta Prié blanc at an altitude between 600 and 1,000 metres and is strongly Valley are somewhat open to dispute. Petite Arvine infl uenced by the Alps. Even though the Pinot grape varieties are Red on the rise, there is also a wide variety of indigenous grapes: 12 to be exact. However their stocks are extremely low and premium Cornalin wines are rare. Through their uniqueness, however, they enrich the range of specialty wines that Italy has to offer. Dilinoir

Fumin rior to1861, Aosta Valley belonged to the Kingdom of Gamaret PSavoy, which jutted far into present day France. Many Mayolet indigenous varieties therefore still have French names today Neyret (for example, Petite Rouge and Dilinoir). Most are Petit Rouge varieties: Fumin, Mayolet, Vuillermin and Cornalin. The only Premetta (Prié Rouge) indigenous Italian grape is , which is grown at the head Vien de Nus of the Aosta Valley in Donnas, but is Piedmontese in origin. In Vuillermin recent years, however, winegrowers have increasingly taken on the attitude that Valle d‘Aosta is a white wine region. The only

16 17 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Apulia

he elongated region at the heel of Italy’s boot is a paradise mong the white wines, the ancient grape, which Apulia Tfor ancient grape varieties. Most already arrived there from Ahad somewhat fallen into obscurity, is also experiencing a Greece during antiquity and then mutated into local, indigenous revival. It yields creamy, slightly aromatic white wines. Simple, varieties across a period of two millennia. The most important fresh, fruity white wines are produced from , Bombino White Apulian grape varieties are red: , which is grown Bianco, Bianco d‘Alessano and the other white grape varieties. around the towns of Brindisi, Lecce and Taranto in southern Bianco di Alessano Apulia, and , which is named after the Greek city of Troy and grows near Foggia and Bari. After falling out of favour Fiano with vintners and experiencing a signifi cant decline due to its Francavidda low yields, the latter has gone on to enjoy a splendid renaissance. Impigno Montonico Today, it provides full-bodied, tannin-rich red wines that are Pampanuto among the best in the region. Verdeca egroamaro, on the other hand, is usually blended Red Nwith Malvasia Nera (and other varieties). Apart from a few exceptions, the varietal wines produced from it are less characteristic. This is why it is also often used for wines. Malvasia Nera The third important grape variety is Primitivo. In Manduria Negroamaro and Salento it yields dense, dark red wines that are bursting with Notardomenico Ottavianello exuberance. Since Primitivo only arrived in Puglia from Dalmatia Primitivo 250 years ago, many do not consider it to be a native variety. Uva di Troia Genetically it is related to the California Zinfandel. Recently the old Susumaniello and Ottavianello varieties have been revived. The other indigenous varieties are of little importance.

18 19 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Basilicata

his southern Italian region is principally famous for a red Basilicata Twine. It is called Aglianico del Vulture and is a wine with a bold tannin structure, full body, fairly high alcohol content and a certain aromatic austerity, which makes it unique. Some say it is the greatest red wine of southern Italy. It is produced from Red the Aglianico grape that grows on the slopes of Monte Vulture, an extinct volcano, and because it ripens late it is often not Aglianico harvested until November. The oldest evidence for the grape’s existence stems from the villages at the foot of Monte Vulture, so that it is presumed that this is where it originated from on Italian soil. It is known, however, to have originally arrived in Italy from ancient Greece. Because of its extraordinary quality, the grape is also grown in the neighbouring regions of Campania, Apulia, Calabria and Molise. In addition, there are also a dozen other indigenous varieties which, however, are only of local signifi cance. Most of the wine from Basilicata is vinifi ed from grapes that are indigenous to the neighbouring region.

20 21 Emilia Indigenous Wines from Italy, Emilia Romagna nly a few international varieties are grown in this large he Albana grape stands out among the indigenous white Romagna Oregion between the Po River and the Apennine Mountains. Twine varieties. Most know it as a golden, sweet wine, Almost all wines are made from grapes that come from the region produced from berries. However, the wine is much itself or neighbouring areas. The economically most important more frequently produced in a dry style as a full-bodied wine of variety is Lambrusco (with its many varieties). Not only sparkling, considerable subtlety with fruity and almond notes. Pignoletto sweet industrial wines are produced from this variety; in recent wine produced from the grape of the same name, which has been White years, more and more artisanal wines have also come onto the documented since 1654, is the prototypical Bolognese white Albana Montuno market: sparkling (frizzante) but nevertheless emphasising the wine – deliciously fruity with moderate acid accents. The ancient Alionza Ortrugo dry, earthy and fruity character of this grape variety. No other Alionza grape is only rarely grown. Although its berries have thick Bervedino Pignoletto grape variety in the world produces a comparable wine. skins, the variety only produces a few grapes and does not generate Famoso Santa Maria suffi cient yields for winegrowers. Melara Spergola lthough the other indigenous red wine varieties are only Aof local signifi cance, they produce some highly original Montù wines: Uva Longanesi in Ravenna and Faenza, Malbo Gentile in Modena, Centesimino in Faenza, Fortana between Parma and Red Ferrara, and in particular Ancelotta, which is native to the hills of Reggio Emilia. The Sangiovese grape is one of the region’s indigenous varieties. It has grown for centuries at the foot of the Ancelotta Sgavetta Centesimino Apennines and possibly originated from there. It suffers from the Sangiovese disadvantage that despite some excellent qualities, its wines are Fogarina Uva Longanesi Fortrana overshadowed by the great Tuscan Sangiovese grape. Lambrusco Malbo Gentile Negretto Perla dei Vivi

22 23 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Friuli-Venezia he chequered history of Friuli with its strong Austrian, ith the red wine varieties, the best qualities come from THungarian, Slovenian, Croatian and Italian infl uences is still Wthe Pignolo grape, which yields dark-coloured, tannin- Giulia refl ected in the region’s grape varieties today. But not everything rich wines that can be very fi ne and very long-living. Red wines that is old is also indigenous. An example that is defi nitely full of character are also produced from the Schioppettino and indigenous, however, is , which is documented as far Tazzelenghe grape varieties. However, they are still little known back as the 11th century in the hilly area of Friuli. It yields smooth, outside of Friuli. The most original red wine grape is White slightly acid-accentuated white wines. The same is true for the dal Peduncolo Rosso with its violet-red colour, strong tannins Friulano (formaly Tocai) rare grapes from which Friuli’s most famous wine and expressive hints of cherry fruit. The Terrano grape is also a Picolit is produced. Both dry white wines and the sweet are member of the Refosco family of grape varieties. This wine shows Ribolla Gialla produced from the rugged grape. Although the niche excellent qualities in Carso near Trieste. Sciaglin in which the variety exists is small, it has survived all fashions. Ucelut Verduzzo Friulano hen it was still known as Tocai, the Friulano grape was Wthe most common white grape variety in Friuli. It was – Vitovska and still is – regarded by locals as “their“ grape variety. Because, however, it is not clear whether it came from Hungary to Friuli or whether it already existed in Friuli before going to Hungary, Red not all experts consider it to be a native grape variety. However, it is certainly not identical to the grape. Because of Forgiarin the similarity of names, it had to be renamed Friulano in 2008 at Pignolo the behest of the European Court of Justice. It yields some very Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso pleasant and also high quality white wines with mild acidity. Schioppettino Tazzelenghe Terrano

24 25 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Calabria

he region at the top of Italy’s boot is an ancient wine growing his leaves us with the white varieties: Bianco, which Calabria Tarea. This is where the fi rst Greeks landed in 800 BC and Tis thought to be related to the Trebbiano grape variety, planted the vines that they had brought with them. As a result of produces simple, fresh white wines. Much more interesting are the exodus of large parts of the population in the 19th and 20th the white wines from the Mantonico grape, which is more widely centuries, the once fl ourishing viticulture has severally declined. known in the Abruzzo region than in its native Calabria. There it Nevertheless, there is a large reserve of old varieties that have is called Montonico. White survived in small, hidden vineyards and which have only been increasingly cultivated again in recent years. The red varieties are Greco Bianco dominated by the Gaglioppo grape, which already existed in ancient Mantonico times and is grown mainly around Cirò. The wines produced from Guardavalle it have considerable tannin, with fruity and liquorice scents, and Guarnaccia also possess a remarkable fi neness. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Pecorello Cappuccio are encountered mainly around Lamezia, where they are used to produce dry, spicy and fruity wines. They are usually Red blended with other varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but also with Gaglioppo. Nerello grapes or grapes from Gaglioppo the also indigenous Greco Nero variety also frequently provide Greco Nero the raw material for the region’s many rosé wines. Nerello Mascalese Nerello Cappuccio n recent years, another quality red wine has been reawakened: Castiglione IMagliocco. Structured, very fi ne red wines can be produced Marsigliana Nera from it. The mountainous region around the town of Cosenza Magliocco harbours the full range of indigenous grape varieties from this Prunesta region. When blended with the Aglianico grape from neighbouring Basilicata, this produces some exciting, earthy red wines.

26 27 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Campania

o other region in Italy utilises so many ancient indigenous white wines in the gorges of the Amalfi coast. However, the most Campania Ngrapes for its wine production than the Campania region. important white grape varieties are Campania Falanghina, Greco Because no large-scale wine industry has gained a foothold there, di Tufo and Fiano. All three are of Greek origin and produce many old vineyards have been preserved – and with them grapes some fi ne, high-class wines: the fi rst one particularly in the area that were offi cially thought to be extinct. Surprisingly, many of around Benevento and along the coast near Mondragone, and these old varieties are so well adapted to the soil and climate that the latter two in Avellino. White they produce better or more interesting wines than the few grape Asprinio varieties that have been imported. Examples include Casavecchia he red grape varieties are dominated by Aglianico and and Pallagrello, from which excellent red wines are produced TPiedirosso, both of which have been at home in Campania Biancolella near Caserta (however only in “homeopathic” amounts). Or since ancient times. The wines produced from the Aglianico Coda di Volpe Sciascinoso, which produces wines with a spicy minerality in grape are opulent, heavy and rich in tannins. In order to “tone Falanghina Pompeii, Amalfi , Sorrento and other niches in the region. Or it down”, Aglianico is blended in many places with the softer Fenile the white Asprinio grape variety, which is still trained up trees grape. Fiano and is used to produce a highly acidic wine that is well suited Forastera for producing sparkling wines. Or Biancolella and Forastera, Ginestra which grow on the narrow terraces on the island of Ischia and Greco produce mild, harmonious white wines. The same is true not only for Coda di Volpe, which makes up the main component Red of the Lacryma Christi wine produced on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, but also in particular for three hardly known varieties – Aglianico Fenile, Ginestra and Ripoli – which produce one of Italy‘s fi nest Casavecchia Pallagrella Piedirosso Sciacinoso

28 29 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Lazio

he region of Lazio, with its capital city of Rome, was once azio’s most important indigenous grape is red: Cesanese. It Lazio Tdemoted by the Ancient Romans to being the granary of Lis cultivated in two small wine growing areas: in Affi le in the Italy. At that time the emperors seemed to consider bread to be and around the town of Anagni in the Province more important than wine. Even today, wine is only grown in of Frosinone. It produces rich, fairly rustic wines that can age well a few places in the region where it tends to cherish its Etruscan but are little known. There are otherwise few local varieties. Worth rather than Roman heritage. The most important wine growing mentioning is the grape. It is a mutation of the white White region is situated south of Rome: Castelli Romani. There Malvasia grape and is characterised by its very aromatic fl avour. It Bellone and Trebbiano grapes are used to produce mainly simple, pleasant is often used for producing sweet wines. It can also be found in Capolongo white wines, the most famous being Frascati and Marino. The southern Tuscany and on the island of Elba. It is not known where Lecinaro biggest buyers of these white wines are Rome’s own citizens. it came from. Maturano Because they were planted centuries ago and are fi rmly rooted in Pampanaro the earth of Lazio, Trebbiano and Malvasia are considered to be Rosciola indigenous, but are in fact found throughout central Italy. n addition there are half a dozen locally native varieties of white Red Iwine grapes that still have no importance economically but are qualitatively promising. These include Capolongo, Maturano, Aleatico Lecinaro and Pampanaro. Cesanese Grechetto Rosso Nero Buono

30 31 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Liguria

iguria is one of the smallest wine regions in Italy. The long ith the red wines there is less diversity in Liguria. There are Liguria Lcoastline and the prevailing maritime cuisine mean that white Wtwo indigenous red wines in the hinterland of Imperia and wines are mainly grown there. They only have local signifi cance Dolce Acqua: Rossese and Ormeasco. The latter is the Ligurian but are considered rare specialties. Many are rustic and have a offshoot of the grape from Piedmont. The other rural simplicity. However, there are some surprisingly good, even red varieties are not important or are not indigenous Ligurian fi ne wines. This is the case, for example, with wines from the varieties. White Pigato grape, which is grown in the valleys around Savona. The Lumassina grape produces hearty, spicy white wines that perfectly Bianchetta Genovese (Albarola) complement the seafood. Only a small portion of these wines are Bosco drunk outside the region. Around can be found Rollo Lumassina and Bianchetta Genovese (also called Albarola), which produces Pigato light, fruity wines but is rarely vinifi ed as a pure varietal wine. Rollo Both have been native to Liguria for centuries. The white Bosco and Albarola grape varieties are grown on the steep terraces of the . They form the basis not only for the dry white Red wines that are served in the trattorias and ristoranti there but also Ormeasco for the rare and sweet sciacchetrà wine. Rossese di Dolceacqua he only white wine grape variety that can be found throughout TLiguria is . Although it is strongly rooted in the area, its origins are hazy, losing themselves somewhere within the Mediterranean region.

32 33 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Lombardy

lthough Lombardy with its capital, Milan, is the economic mong the red grape varieties Groppello is the most striking. Lombardy Acentre of Italy, wine also plays a major role in the region. AIt is one of the oldest Italian grape varieties and grows only The most famous wine-growing regions are and on the western shore of Lake Garda. The ruby red wines are rustic, Oltrepò Pavese, where a lot of is produced, but but very strong in character. In Oltrepò Pavese, where it is called using Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero grapes. In , the red Bonarda grape produces delicate, slightly tannic addition there is Lugana south of Lake Garda and with red wines. This has nothing in common with the Bonarda grape White its red wines produced from Piedmont’s Nebbiolo grape (which from Piedmont. Invernega is called Chiavennasca in the local dialect). Lugana (Turbiana) any other varieties that can be found in the vineyards of MLombardy are indigenous – but are not always indigenously Verdese Lombardian. They originate from Valpolicella, Trentino or even from Piedmont. A genuine Lombardian speciality is the Lugana grape, from which the dry white wine of the same name is vinifi ed. This is a derivative of the Trebbiano grape, which is widespread Red in Italy and from which numerous varieties exist. However, the grape cultivated in Lugana is meanwhile so far removed from Bonarda (Croatina) the other Trebbiano varieties that it is now considered a separate Groppello variety in its own right and has also been given its own name: Turbiana. Pignola (Ughetta)

34 35 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Le Marche

he Le Marche region lies between the Apennine Mountains he dominant red grape variety is Montepulciano. It has Le Marche Tand the Adriatic, in the hinterland of the port city of Ancona. Tnothing to do with the town of the same name in Tuscany. The most famous and important white wine is Verdicchio, named The wines produced from it are dark, dense, rich in tannins, after the grape of the same name. It is known to have been cultivated sometimes highly delicate and rousing, but sometimes unruly. in Le Marche for 500 years. The Verdicchio wine thrives on its They are mostly blended with Sangiovese. A unique grape variety fruity, salty aromas that refl ect the spices of the Mediterranean is Lacrima, which grows around the village of Morro and produces White climate. The Riserva version is considerably more full-bodied a light, very spicy red wine. The same is true for the red Vernaccia Biancame than other white wines from central Italy. Genetic studies have Nera grape. It is only grown around the village of Serrapetrona and Maceratino recently revealed close links to Trebbiano di . However the produces a dry sparkling wine that is a local specialty. Passerina vines and wine are completely different from Soave. Pecorino Verdicchio here is considerable hope for two almost forgotten white Tvarieties, Passerina and Pecorino, which have been replanted in recent years. Both are of ancient origin, grow up to one thousand metres above sea level on the slopes of the Apennines, Red and produce energetic wines with strong spicy notes. Wines produced from the Biancame grape in the north of Le Marche are Lacrima lighter and lighter-hearted. Montepulciano Sangiovese Vernaccia Nera

36 37 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Molise

olise is one of the smallest regions in Italy, including in Molise Mterms of its viniculture. Sandwiched between the Abruzzo region in the north, Campania to the west and Apulia in the south, it is able to suitably benefi t from their vine varieties: above all from the red Montepulciano, Sangiovese and Aglianico grapes but also from the white Bombino Bianco, Malvasia, Falanghina, White Fiano and Greco varieties. They form the basis for most wines from this very rural region. The only strictly indigenous grape Falanghina is the red Tintilia. It only exists in Molise and is unrelated to any Fiano other known variety. This grape is mostly vinifi ed by vintners as Bombino Bianco a varietal, producing a full-bodied, velvety wine with an aroma Greco of plums, berries, liquorice and sandalwood spice. It is still little known abroad, even though when it presents its best qualities it is among the outstanding red wines of southern Italy. Red Montepulciano Sangiovese Aglianico Tintilia

38 39 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Piedmont

iedmont is a progressive region that is nevertheless very lthough the white wines have never been able to match the Piedmont Ptraditional when it comes to wine. 99 per cent of the cultivated Areputation and quality of the reds, the white wine sector is vine varieties are indigenous. Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet currently becoming more exciting. In the past, everything centred Sauvignon and have only become established in the on and Gavi ( grape). They effectively represented vineyards to a very limited extent. white Piedmont wine, with and Favorita only playing supporting roles. However in recent years experts have been White he international renown enjoyed by Piedmontese wines is enthusing about the “white wonder”. They are referring to the Tbased on the Nebbiolo grape. It is used to produce Barolo, ancient Timorasso variety, which produces wines of remarkable Arneis Favorita and Roero, and in the north Gattinara, Ghemme, qualities on the hills surrounding the town of Tortona. Although Cortese Moscato Bianco Boca and other small at the foot of the Alps. In only a few vintners cultivate this ancient grape variety, the wines Erbaluce Nascetta addition there is the Barbera grape variety, which also produces that they bring to bottle are among the best that Piedmont has to Timorasso wines of international repute in Asti and Alba. Both are grape offer. This is even truer of the Nascetta grape, which was almost on Red varieties originally native to Piedmont. Dolcetto is also among the the verge of extinction until a few vintners around Alba recognised standard range of grapes used by many vineyards in Langhe and its value. The white wines produced from it are surprisingly fi ne Albarossa Monferrato. The red Brachetto grape is used to produce a sparkling, and relatively long-living. Avanà Nebbiolo slightly sweet red wine that enjoys considerable popularity within Avarengo Neretta Cuneese Piedmont. The strawberry red, tannic Grignolino wine is a rarity Barbera Neretto di Bairo highly sought after by wine afi cionados, as are the heavy, aromatic Bonarda Pelaverga Ruché and light Pelaverga wines. The other indigenous red grape Brachetto Pelaverga Piccolo varieties have only marginal importance. Qualgliano Croatina Ruchè Dolcetto Doux d’Henry Vespolina Gamba Rossa Grignolino

40 41 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Sardinia

nternational grape varieties cover only a relatively small part Bovale, Carignano and Monica varieties were also imported Sardinia Iof the vineyards of Sardinia. Most of the vines are indigenous. hundreds of years ago. The latter two grape varieties are now used Original Sardinian varieties include Semidano and Nuragus, the to produce some of the best and most characteristic red wines in most common white grape in Sardinia. Both produce simple Sardinia. Finally there is Cannonau: this is the most common red but delicious wines and often end up being blended with other grape variety in Sardinia and it also produces very good wines. It varieties. The white Nasco grape variety is also – at least as far back is in fact an ancient, indigenous Sardinian vine and claims that White as can be researched – of Sardinian origin. It is usually used for this is a mutation of the Spanish grape have now been Nasco sweet fortifi ed wines that the transnational markets are, however, disproved. Nuragus not interested in. There is also only muted interest in Vernaccia di Semidano Oristano, a -like white wine from the same vine. Torbato Vernaccia di Oristano hese days the markets demand dry wines like Torbato from TAlghero and Vermentino. With its herbal, spicy and salty aroma, this is now the most important white wine on the island. The grape of the same name has been growing for a long time Red on Sardinia, but is also widespread throughout the Mediterranean and is not actually a specifi c Sardinian variety. The Torbato grape, Bovale on the other hand, is unequivocally not from Sardinia but from Cagnulari Catalonia. Many Sardinian varieties were in fact brought by Cannonau foreign conquerors to the island, for example by the Aragonese in Carignano the 14th century. The vines that they brought with them mostly Monica originated from Spain. They are now naturalised and completely autonomous. Besides Torbato and Vermentino, this category also includes Malvasia, which is represented mainly in the south of the island and produces hearty, spicy white wines. The red

42 43 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Sicily

lthough Sicily is Italy’s largest wine producer, not even 20 from Calabria, they have been present for centuries on the slopes of Sicily Aper cent of the production is produced as bottled wine. Most Mount Etna. Connoisseurs praise the light fruitiness and elegance of it is openly sold in barrels. The fact that even this much wine is of the wines produced from them. Other indigenous varieties have now fi nding its way into bottles is thanks to the dramatic increase not yet managed to assert themselves. in quality and the fact that the markets have all but devoured White Sicilian wines in recent years – especially the wine produced from he situation is quite different with white wines. Here, four Nero d‘Avola. It is the most important red wine grape and can Tindigenous grape varieties are up and coming with Inzolia, be found almost everywhere on the island. The wines produced , Grecanico and Grillo. The latter also provides the Inzolia from it vary considerably depending on where it grows: in the main grape variety for the famous . On the island of Carricante Province of Trapani they are soft, sweet, fruity and harmonious; Pantelleria, a fantastic sweet wine is produced from the Zibibbo Catarratto in the Province of Palermo they are muscular, rich in tannins and vine (). Last but not least is Carricante: Grecanico long-living; and in the hot south-eastern part of the island near cultivated on Mount Etna, it produces a unique white wine with Grillo Noto they are austere, severe and sometimes unapproachable. a salty minerality. Damaschino Nero d‘Avola is the indigenous vine on the island – undemanding, Malvasia delle Lipari heat-resistant, robust and high-yielding (if it is not pruned back). Zibibbo It is mostly vinifi ed to produce pure varietal wines but it is also often blended with Syrah. Red n important locally indigenous variety is , from Frappato Awhich Cerasuolo di Vittoria is produced. This is a light, Minnella spicy and fruity red wine, which is also often blended with Nero Nerello Mascalese d‘Avola. Otherwise, red grapes are only still cultivated in large Nerello Cappuccio quantities on the Etna volcano, namely the Nerello Mascalese and Nero d’Avola in smaller quantities Nerello Cappuccio. Although both originate Nocera

44 45 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Tuscany

uscany, which is Italy‘s fourth largest region in terms of the Maremma region with a dark skin, also probably comes from Tuscany Tcultivated vineyards, very much focuses on red wine. The France. Indeed, French varieties have considerably displaced the Sangiovese grape dominates. It is the classic Tuscan red wine Sangiovese grape along the entire Mediterranean coast of Tuscany. variety. There are numerous mutations of this grape, which Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and often have their own name: Prugnolo Gentile in Montepulciano, mature there better and produce more elegant wines than Tuscany’s Brunello or Sangiovese Grosso in Montalcino, Sangioveto and traditional grapes. The almost forgotten Pugnitello grape, on the White Sangiovese Piccolo in Chianti Classico. The art of the vintners is other hand, has reappeared in Chianti Classico. Although only a to select the best of these mutations (or clones) and to plant them few hectares have been planted with this grape variety, it is already in their vineyards. producing a promising red wine. Vernaccia angiovese wines have few similarities with other red wines hite wines play a much smaller role in Tuscany. The Sof the world. They are not overly intense in colour but Wtraditional Trebbiano Toscano grape variety is declining. Red have plenty of tannins, which can sometimes display a certain Furthermore, the mother vine from which it is derived comes roughness. They also have pronounced acidity. As young from France, not Tuscany. The noble Vernaccia grape variety can they have a lot of charm, as Riserva they can be very long-living. be found in San Gimignano. It produces the best white wine in the Colorino The best ones are great wines on a global scale. region. The spicy Vermentino grape variety produces wonderfully dry wines in a Mediterranean style. It is only found, however, Sangiovese oday Sangiovese is the most widely planted grape variety in on the Mediterranean coast. Both Vermentino and Vernaccia Pugnitello TItaly. It grows throughout central Italy. Whether it actually have been cultivated for centuries in Tuscany. The exact origins comes from Tuscany or from Emilia Romagna is unclear. It has of the Vermentino grape are, however, hazy, losing themselves been cultivated in both regions for centuries. Canaiolo, Colorino somewhere in the Mediterranean region. Malvasia, Greco and and Ciliegiolo are typical complementary grape varieties for Grechetto have been at home in Tuscany Sangiovese wines. The latter, probably a French import, can for a long time, but their main cultivation be found in many central and southern Italian regions because areas lie outside the region. its aroma makes it ideal for producing Rosé wine. The Alicante grape variety, which is a teinturier grape variety often grown in

46 47 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Trentino/Alto Adige

he provinces of Trento and Bolzano together form the he second indigenous grape variety is Lagrein, which is Trentino Tautonomous region of Trentino-Alto Adige/South Tyrol. Tused to produce dark, full-bodied red wines that are fully Their grapes are mainly characterised by the Burgundy varieties: autonomous and have been documented in South Tyrol since Alto Adige Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. the 16th century. Although it has distant genetic similarities with In addition there is Sauvignon. The fi rst rootstocks for these the Teroldego grape variety from Trentino, it yields a completely varieties were already imported from France during the early 19th different wine. It has been cultivated on the fl oor of the Adige White century. However, they are not described as indigenous. Whether Valley and around the towns of Mezzolombardo and Mezzocorona the Gewurztraminer grape actually comes from Tramin is hotly since the earliest records began. It probably produces the best disputed by experts. The South Tyroleans certainly consider it to red wine from Trentino: dark with rich fruit aromas and velvety be indigenous. tannins. The grape is only found in the Adige Valley Red and around the town of Rovereto. It is used to produce simple but espite seeing a sharp decline, the most commonly occurring delicious red wine. The Enantio grape is a variety of Lambrusco, Enantio Dgrape variety that is certainly indigenous is still Vernatsch. It which has been cultivated for a long time and extensively in the Lagrein yields pleasant, bright red wines that have defi ned South Tyrol’s southern Adige Valley. However, there has also been a considerable Marzemino red wine image for hundreds of years. It fi nds its highest expression reduction in the number of vineyards growing it. Vernatsch (Schiava) near Lake Caldaro, St. Magdalene, in the Meran hills and in Colli Teroldego di Bolzano. The Vernatsch grape most probably originates from nly Nosiola is important among the indigenous white , but has played a dominant role in South Tyrol since Ogrape varieties. When the yield is capped, it is capable of the end of the 17th century. It is also grown in small quantities producing wonderfully fresh, mildly tannic wines that are unique. in Trentino and Lombardy (Schiava), and in large quantities in In Valle dei Laghi north of Lake Garda, Nosiola grapes are also Württemberg. There it is known as . dried to produce sweet wines.

48 49 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Umbria

mbria has lots of wine, but only a few grape varieties. The he second indigenous white grape variety is Grechetto. It Umbria UTrebbiano grape, which is ubiquitous almost throughout Tis an obligatory component of the white Orvieto wine, but Italy, is represented in most white wines, while Sangiovese or is also found in many other white wines from Umbria. There is other varieties from one of the neighbouring regions are found in not enough of a suffi cient quality to be vinifi ed as varietal wine. the red wines. International grape varieties have only found their However when blended with other varieties it produces an way into the region‘s vineyards to a very limited extent. The most unmistakable aroma. Verdello is a similar case: its high acidity White important indigenous Umbrian red wine grape is Sagrantino. It makes it a popular blending partner for numerous white wines is grown around the village of Montefalco south of Assisi and fi rst from the region. Grechetto appeared in the 16th century in documents that tell of a sweet Trebbiano Spoletino communion wine of this name. The Sagrantino grape was indeed Verdello exclusively processed well into the 20th century into a Passito, i.e. a made from dried berries. As a long-living, highly Red tannic and dry wine, Sagrantino di Montefalco these days enjoys a worldwide reputation. Sagrantino rebbiano Spoletino also enjoys considerable popularity Tamong the white grape varieties. It is the most important white grape variety in the hills between Spoleto and Montefalco. It is certainly old, but it is unclear how much Trebbiano is actually in it. Probably little. It produces a straw-yellow, full-bodied wine, which in contrast to the usual Trebbiano wines can certainly age for a few years.

50 51 Indigenous Wines from Italy, Veneto

n no other region of Italy are so many indigenous varieties he grape has also successfully resisted the advance Veneto Icatalogued as in Veneto. With over 78,000 hectares of vines, Tof Chardonnay and other international grape varieties. It it is also one of the largest wine regions in Italy. However, most gives the white Soave wines their characteristic, mineral and fruity indigenous grape varieties play only a modest role – if at all. They aroma. It is also included in Custoza, Gambellara and other white are grown in miniscule amounts or only have local signifi cance. wines from Veneto. And the red wines? Amarone, Valpolicella White The Raboso grape is still one of the more common varieties. It and Bardolino would not exist without the quadrumvirate is used to produce rough, rustic red wines on the banks of the comprising the , , and Bianchetta Pedevenda River Piave. Although these are highly praised within the growing grape varieties. All attempts to improve the quality of the wines Trevigiana Perera region, they have few friends outside the area. The white Durella by including Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the blend have Boschera Pinella grape suffers a similar fate. It is only really loved by the sparkling proved unsuccessful. Only the almost forgotten Oseletta has Durella wine producers – because of its high acidity. The situation is quite enjoyed a renaissance and has been ultimately found worthy Garganega Verduzzo different with the Vespaiolo grape variety: in it yields a enough to enrich the blend of grapes for these wines. Glera Trevigiano light, entirely distinct white wine. Famous is the sweet Torcolato wine produced from late-harvested or dried Vespaiolo grapes. Marzemina owever, the most important white grape variety among the Hnative vines is Glera. It is responsible for the worldwide Red success of Prosecco wines. Whether it really comes from the area around Valdobbiadene or has its origins in Friuli is uncertain, Casetta Negrara but it has certainly been at home in the hills around Treviso for Cavrara Oseleta centuries. Corbina Pavana Corvinara Raboso Corvinone Recantina Dindarella Rondinella Gruaja Molinara Turchetta

52 53 Notes

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