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Indigenous Wines from Italy Jens Priewe Indigenous Wines from Italy A booklet published by the Italian Trade Agency, Berlin Text: Jens Priewe 3 Contents Introduction 6 What are indigenous grape varieties? 8 Indigenous grape varieties in Italy 10 Indigenous grape varieties in the international market? 12 Regions Abruzzo 14 Aosta Valley 16 Apulia 18 Basilicata 20 Emilia Romagna 22 Friuli-Venezia Giulia 24 Calabria 26 Campania 28 Lazio 30 Liguria 32 Lombardy 34 Le Marche 36 Molise 38 Piedmont 40 Sardinia 42 Sicily 44 Tuscany 46 Trentino/Alto Adige 48 Umbria 50 Veneto 52 4 5 Indigenous Wines from Italy taly is one of the world’s major wine-growing countries. Its taly has one of the largest and most differentiated grape varieties Introduction: I20 regions produce wines that are enjoyed and appreciated in Iin Europe. Some of these varieties can be found throughout almost all countries of the world. Most are pressed from Italian the country while others have only regional or local signifi cance. The future of the grape varieties. These characterise the aroma and taste of the What they all have in common, however, is that they are old, wines. And they make them unmistakable – which plays an often dating back to antiquity, and that they yield wines that are Italian wine increasingly important role in a global wine market. sometimes great, and sometimes modest, but are always unique. industry lies in the odern wine consumers seek not only quality but also xperts estimate that another 1,200 varieties are slumbering Mdistinguishing features. They want wines that differ Ein the vineyards of Italy that have not yet been analysed and grapes according to the country, winegrowing area and soil. That is catalogued, and are therefore at risk of extinction. “We must fi ght why it is important that Italy not only preserves the diversity to save these ancient and indigenous varieties,” demands Attilio of its grape varieties but also develops them. Grapes are the Scienza, Professor of Viticulture at the University of Milan. raw material for wine. The future of Italian viticulture in the international wine markets depends on them. ne of the most frequent complaints made by critics, dealers Oand consumers is that wines are becoming increasingly “Italy‘s strengths lie in its round 350 grape varieties are currently cultivated in Italy. uniform throughout the world – including those of a high indigenous grape varieties.” AAround 330 of them are local varieties. They are referred quality. This could eventually lead to the paradoxical situation to as “indigenous” or “autochthonous” varieties to distinguish that, as the quality increases, there is a risk of impoverishing the them from “allochthonous” – i.e. international – varieties, which fl avour and taste. To prevent this, Italy has made it its maxim to Marco Caprai, during the last fi ve decades have been rapidly gaining ground preserve the diversity of its grape varieties. winegrower in Umbria, who is throughout the world, including in Italy: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah for red wines, Chardonnay and Sauvignon helping to preserve blanc for the white varieties. In many places they have displaced the Sagrantino grape variety. the indigenous grapes before they could develop their potential. 6 7 Indigenous Wines from Italy What are or wine drinkers indigenous grape varieties are often those t is disputable whether they also need to be “created on the Fwhich bear an Italian name. This criterion is however Ispot,” as the ancient Greek word “autòchthon” suggests. indigenous somewhat blurry, as is shown, for example, by Pinot Grigio: the Strictly speaking, no vine would then be autochthonous. All name sounds Italian but the grape variety is in fact Burgundian. forerunners of today‘s cultivated vines were namely brought grape varieties? to Italy by the Greeks and the Phoenicians during antiquity, xperts therefore only refer to grape varieties as being and were then brought by the Romans to the provinces. Eindigenous – or autochthonous – if they have a close, long- Through random crossing with wild vines, mutations and standing connection to the geographical location where they human selection, they have then evolved into what they are grow: we are talking of at least 100 to 150 years. In fact, most today: wines with a close, long-term connection to a specific Italian grape varieties have been cultivated for much longer at geographic location. the locations where they are native today. They have arrived there through trading activities, migration, wars or by accident – often already during the Middle Ages, sometimes during the early modern era, and sometimes as late as the pre-industrial era of the 18th and 19th centuries. There they have prevailed against “Even so-called indigenous the competition offered by other vines. They have adapted to the vines have genetically changed climate and soil conditions. They have survived diseases. And over time. They are not the they have met people’s demands regarding the quality and yield. same vines as before.” Lorenzo Landi, Tuscan oenologist 8 9 Indigenous Wines from Italy What role do taly is a country with a great sense of tradition. People have a Giulia, the red Cannonau grape that grows only in Sardinia, Iconsiderable attachment to their towns, villages and country, and the Gaglioppo grape variety from Calabria. indigenous grape just as they do to their customs and traditions and their culture and cuisine. They therefore also defend the typical wines from Nationally indigenous grape varieties: Although these varieties play their respective regions with equal vehemence. For the country’s have a local or regional origin, they are scattered all over the winegrowers, preserving and fostering the native vines is not country. There are many varieties of this type in Italy. The in Italy? just a labour of love but also a survival strategy. The concept of most famous is Sangiovese. Today it can be found almost indigenous grape varieties falls on fertile ground with them. everywhere. It is only regionally indigenous, however, in Tuscany and Emilia Romagna. Other grape varieties of this hese days, grape experts distinguish between three different type include the white Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes with Ttypes of indigenous grapes. their numerous versions and Moscato grapes, which are also available in countless variations. Locally indigenous grape varieties: These refer to grapes that are only native in one or two provinces within the country o matter which category a grape variety belongs to, “Researching and preserving and therefore also originate from there. Typical varieties in this Nnot everything that is indigenous produces high- indigenous vines also contributes category include the red Lagrein grape (provinces of Bolzano quality wines. That is why winemakers choose exactly what to greater biodiversity in the and Trento), the white Pignoletto grape (Bologna), the Sicilian is worth preserving. They receive help for this from scientists vineyards.” Grillo (provinces of Trapani and Palermo) and the red Tintilia and government institutions. The press is also supporting grape (provinces of Campobasso and Isernia). efforts to achieve biodiversity in the vineyards, which serves not only the environment but also helps to protect entire Elisabetta Foradori, winegrower in Regionally indigenous grape varieties: Grapes in this landscapes. Trentino who is helping to preserve category have been cultivated in an entire region (or even in the Teroldego grape variety. two regions) for centuries. These include, for example, Nero d‘Avola, which is only found in Sicily, Glera, which is used for Prosecco and is only permitted in Veneto and Friuli-Venezia 10 11 Indigenous Wines from Italy What role is played talian wine is drunk not only in its own country. It is also ometimes the grape varieties are also explicitly stated on the Ia prominent player in the European and overseas markets. Slabel: Aglianico del Vulture, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, by indigenous grape Overall, almost 25 per cent of the Italian bottled wine production Barbera d’Asti and Lambrusco di Sorbara. Anyone opening one is exported. of these bottles knows that they taste differently to a Riesling or varieties in the a California Zinfandel. They drink a piece of Italy and dream international wine he names of many of these wines contain a clear geographical of sun-kissed landscapes, flowering oleander, secluded medieval Treference. To name a few examples: Barolo, Brunello di villages, perhaps about the music of Giuseppe Verdi and the market? Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, masterpieces of Botticelli, Leonardo and Michelangelo, or about Conero and Amarone della Valpolicella. These geographical noisy bars and intimate, bustling trattorias where fresh pasta is names stand for precisely determined grape varieties. Foreign served. In other words they dream about that which constitutes wine drinkers know that they are drinking Sangiovese when they the cultural identity of Italy. reach for a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino, they know how the Montepulciano grape typically tastes when they have Conero in ines from indigenous grape varieties form part of this their glasses, and they know that they have not received Merlot Witalianità. They are more than just wine. They are a when they buy a bottle of Barolo wine. message that states: Get back to the roots, to the authentic, local product. This message is the first step towards the realisation he success of these wines abroad shows that international once formulated by the Slow Food Foundation as follows: “Even Tmarkets are recognising the efforts made to produce top- small, modest wines can have dignity.” “Even small, modest wines quality wines from Italy’s own indigenous grape varieties. The can have dignity.” concept is therefore also reaping success even when consumers are not as familiar with the intricacies of the Italian grape varieties Fondazione Slow Food as the Italians themselves.

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