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Longest Shortcut World Travelers

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Longest Shortcut World Travelers Australia’s Outback The World’s Longest Shortcut WORLD TRAVELERS Jim, a long-distance trucker sporting a thick ond, she’s thrown forward as her 650GS dusty beard, ancient jeans, and a faded- high sides before smacking the ground hard orange safety shirt, is outside. and flipping. Lisa’s pinned under the front left fuel tank. Adrenaline pumps as I spin “‘Struth mate. You’re ready for an adven- around and rush back to her. ture, eh?” asks the inquisitive truckie (truck driver) pointing to the motorcycles. Lisa’s yelling as fuel erupts from a split line, drowning her helmet, goggles, and eyes “We’re riding down to Perth across the Out- in burning gasoline. She kicks herself free, back,” Lisa answers. yanks off her helmet, and pours our recent- ly bought water over her face and into her “You be careful out there. That place wants bloodshot eyes. We lift the bike upright and ya dead. Ah, heck, young fella, good on ya. instantly spot that the punctured rear tire is Mind the roos. Ya’ll be right,” Jim adds with partially peeled off the rim. While Lisa con- a dry chuckle. tinues to flush out her eyes, I straighten her bent gear shifter and re-attach her broken “I think we’ve just met Crocodile Dundee’s handguard with a zip tie. She’s shaken but dad,” Lisa comments to me with a smile. otherwise OK. It’s another 50 minutes be- fore we’re clicking through the gears and The Outback Has Teeth once again cruising west. West of town, the tar ends abruptly. With a thump, we drop to the loose gravel track. Later, camped near the tiny Outback settle- With our tire pressures lowered, we pick ment of Alpha, the embers from our small up speed. On the pegs, I squeeze on the campfire glow red, and we’re witnessing throttle, and my rear wheel drifts out before one of the most brilliant star-filled skies we I straighten for the next long left. can remember. The Aussie Outback has given us fair warning of what’s to come. Two hours of glass (shiny ball-bearing) gravel later, the air is pungent as we speed Patches, Potholes, and Parks I’d commented to Lisa that I e are perched on the northeast- We are southwest of Mackay, and Lisa’s F through a grove of silver-barked eucalyptus We joined the Landsborough Highway, a wanted a ‘big’ ride. “I need ern coast of the world’s sixth 650 GS belts out a hefty “blat, blat, blat” trees. Clearing the trees, I plow into a deep long, worn stretch of asphalt, three hours some dirt, sand, raw beauty, Wlargest nation and biggest is- as she eases off the gas, applies the brakes, wash of dust and rocks and instantly shift ago. As we cruise northwest, we form a land, as well as one of oldest landmasses and pulls to a stop. Six large kangaroos leap my weight to compensate. In my mirror, new plan--we’ll aim to reach the Central and a little danger. Well, just on the planet—Australia. At a gas station in in unison across the Peak Downs Highway. I can see Lisa’s bike is sideways, her rear West Queensland town of Winton where enough to shake me up a the town of Mackay, Lisa tops off the fuel The large male at the rear throws us a sus- wheel sliding out violently. In a split sec- we can get a new tire for Lisa. We only little,” I’d continued naively. I tanks while I check the bikes over. Nearby, picious stare before disappearing into the should have known better. the Coral Sea pounds the beach as a stream tall grass on the other side. “We’re going of boats head out to the Great Barrier Reef. to have to be very careful of this particular At $250 per person, this excursion is out of hazard,” I yell to Lisa. our budget. Text: Simon Thomas We’re looking at a straight piece of tar Photography: Simon and Lisa Thomas The air carries a salty tang. A warm dry that stretches out of sight. Fields of sun- breeze lulls our senses, but it does little to bleached brush grass stretch out under a distract me from the building knot of anx- cloudless sky. After heading west for five ious excitement that’s growing in my stom- hours, we meet the Gregory Development ach. Ahead is a long and unforgiving off- Road and turn south, grateful for the inter- road route--the “World’s Longest Shortcut.” ruption. In the small town of Clermont, we These 2,600 miles across Australia take in cruise the short main street and stop to re- uninhabited desert and challenging ter- fill our water packs; we’re already parched. rain, and they will see us traverse this vast The little wooden-decked provisions store caption 1 caption 1 caption 1 caption continent from coast to coast. We’re here looks like it would have 50 years ago. In- 1 caption 1 caption 1 caption 1 to motorcycle the real Australia, the prime- side, the beaten 1950’s Coca-Cola fridge val interior where walk-about legends take is overflowing with chilled bottled water. caption 2 caption 2 caption 2 root in the blood-red earth, and the land Handing over our cash, we quickly fill our caption 2 caption 2 caption 2 whispers to those who listen. We’re headed water-sacks. Caption 3 Caption 3 Caption into the Outback. 3 Caption 3 Caption 3 Cap- tion 3 Caption 3 Caption 3 96 WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL NOvember/december ‘13 97 WORLD TRAVELERS hope the three heavy patches will hold un- trains, the trucks that pull up to five trail- til then. On the north of town, we set up ers behind them. Someone should have camp at the Matilda Country Tourist Park. warned the roos. East of Middleton, we Across the road, Steve, the local tire guy, slow and carefully skirt the carcasses of 12 pulls out a very used, but ridable Conti TKC kangaroos killed “domino style” when a 80. Lisa’s grin is a sure sign of her approv- train tore through the group. al, and Steve jokes about my repair as he mounts the new rubber to the rim. Slowing, we peel off the tar, and our wheels spin on the rocky dirt tracks. We negotiate a “Good on ya,’ Young Fella” steep incline to the top of Cawnpore Look- For two days, we’ve rubbed shoulders with out where we set up camp near a tin-roofed Winton’s locals. The rustic wooden bar in sun shelter. Our rocky vista glows orange as the Mens Room (yep, men only) at the Tatt the sun sets, and we prepare our evening (Tattersalls Hotel), has made an exception meal. Tomorrow, the real dirt begins. for Lisa and we enjoy easy conversation with the regulars. Bill and Murray, two Unwelcome Neighbors weather-beaten cattlemen, nightly sip on At sunrise in the hamlet of Boulia, we fill cold amber beer after a 12-hour shift of our fuel tanks to the brim. The jolt of hand- sun-baked ranching. We learn that Winton ing over $205 for gas wakes us both up. The has a rich history as the birthplace of both fuel here in Australia has been some of the the folklore tune Waltzing Matilda, and most expensive we found in the world; the QANTAS, the world’s second oldest airline. remoteness of the Outback pushes that cost up even further. With our gas tanks full, we Highways of Blood and Fur need to take care of our other fluid neces- By 6 a.m., we’re loading the bikes in a sity, water, and pack a whopping 13.5 gal- swarm of black flies. Back on the dry, flat lons. We’re going to feel that extra weight. Kennedy Development Road, our day caption 4 caption 4 cap- is long and hot. Roadkill is a sad fact of We pass the metal sign for Fence Creek, tion 4 caption 4 caption Outback life, but the carnage is shocking. and 4.5 miles outside Boulia we stop by the 4 caption 4 caption 4 caption 4 caption 4 We’ve also been warned about the road- large faded wooden sign that reads “Wel- caption 5 caption 5 caption 5 caption 5 caption 5 caption 5 caption 5 caption 5 caption 5 caption 6 caption 6 caption 6 cap- tion 6 caption 6 caption 6 caption 6 caption 6 caption 6 caption 6 caption 7 caption 7 caption 7 caption 7 caption 7 caption 7 caption 7 caption 7 caption 7 NOvember/december ‘13 99 WORLD TRAVELERS WORLD TRAVELERS caption 8 caption 8 caption 8 cap- Alice, Alice, who in the for 157 days. Mark, the owner of the Stu- tion 8 caption 8 caption 8 caption art Caravan & Cabin Tourist Park, where 8 caption 8 caption 8 caption 8 world is Alice? It’s been two days of the same since Arthur we’d stayed in Alice, suggests we camp at caption 9 caption 9 caption 9 cap- Creek. The tar began abruptly ten minutes Rainbow Valley. Some 46 miles south we tion 9 caption 9 caption 9 caption ago, and we are now cruising into the geo- turn off the Stuart Highway, and within 9 caption 9 caption 9 caption 9 graphical middle of Australia, better known seconds we’re battling to negotiate the as the Red Center.
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