VIDAL FRESH SASSOON DIES AT 84 BAGUETTE PAGE 8 FENDI PUTS THE BAGUETTE BAG THAT IGNITED THE ‘IT’ BAG CRAZE BACK IN THE SPOTLIGHT. PAGE 6

T SOR 20 E 13 R COLLECTIONS NEW YORK

WWDTHURSDAY, MAY 10, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 READY FOR COMPETITION Macy’s Lundgren Upbeat As Profits Climb 38.2% passed internal and external ex- By EVAN CLARK pectations and that there was “no reason to suspect that there’s any NEW YORK — Macy’s Inc. is more shortcomings in the business per- than ready to take on Amazon.com formance to follow.” Inc. and J.C. Penney Co. Inc. Investors wanted more, howev- That was the message Wednesday er, and scrutinized the company’s from Terry J. Lundgren, Macy’s annual earnings outlook, which chairman, president and chief exec- stood unchanged at $3.25 to $3.30 a utive officer, who said his company is share. Analysts were already look- taking share from rival Penney’s and ing for $3.41. The retailer’s shares is well positioned with its clicks-and- fell 3.7 percent to $38.05 and ana- bricks strategy to square off with the lysts from J.P. Morgan and Morgan behemoth Amazon. Stanley advised clients to take ad- “We have demonstrated that we vantage of the slide and buy into are taking market share,” Lundgren the stock. told WWD in an interview. “We are Lundgren said his consumer going to continue to take market outlook was more positive than share. We don’t have to have a per- some of the recent economic data fect economic forecast in front of us would suggest. to be able to forecast our business.” “The private sector is creat- He said the first quarter — ing jobs,” he said. “That’s a good when a 4.3 percent rise in sales sign for the economy. We’ve added and a better expense rate yielded more jobs this year and feel very a 38.2 percent profit gain — sur- SEE PAGE 7 Tom Talks Life and Love very scary place if it were only run By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG by Virgos. Perfectionists — I don’t know if there are any psychologists NEW YORK — Whether describing in the room — are more prone to his briefcase-carrying 7-year-old depression because perfection is self, his overextended days at Gucci not achievable. Imperfection is Group or why he likes to bathe four perfection but that goes so against or five times a day, Tom Ford was the grain. Fashion has a lot of unapologetic and entertaining Virgos — Stella McCartney, Karl Tuesday night at the 92Y here. Lagerfeld, Carine Roitfeld — there When his interviewer Fern are a lot of us. To really obsess Mallis ran through a checklist of about a millimeter on a shoe, it Virgo traits — precise, affection- helps to be a Virgo.” Sunny Side Up ate, everything is in order, sharp He was also quick to turn the ta- memory, attention to detail —Ford bles when Mallis asked him about offered, “Anal retentive. But I don’t being 50. “Fern was born on March Resort 2013 — it’s officially open season. Bottega Veneta did the honors like that term. 26, 1948. She is on the cusp of an of kicking things off with Tomas Maier’s collection of painterly prints and “You know, the world might be a SEE PAGE 4 monochromatic pastels. Mellow yellow made quite a statement when worn head to toe, as with this wool gabardine trench, trousers and cashmere polo. As for the accessories, even bags and shoes were shown in the single tone — inside and out. For more on the collection, see wwd.com/runway.

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE 2 WWD THURSDAY, MAY 10, 2012 WWD.COM

Target to Open Champion Store THE BRIEFING BOX

By SHARON EDELSON IN TODAY’S WWD and DAVID LIPKE

NEW YORK — Target this fall will open a freestanding store A look from the Joe in San Francisco for its C9 by Fresh fall collection. Champion brand. The retailer also revealed the first men’s shop to participate in its The Shops at Target program will be Odin, a luxury men’s re- tailer with three directional stores in downtown Manhattan. Odin will join high-end women’s boutique Kirna Zabête in The Shops at Target’s second wave of collections launching on Sept. 9. Inside Odin’s Lafayette Street store. The 3,000-square-foot C9 IANNACCONE Active Apparel store will open on

Oct. 14 at the Metreon shopping Francisco is filled with young, fit, Converse One Star featured a black THOMAS center, where a 100,000-square- health-conscious people. There fake leather quilted jacket for $49.99 BY foot CityTarget will also are no plans at the moment to and an animal-print dress, $29.99. bow. The store will occupy open additional C9 stores, but The inaugural round of The PHOTO a ground-floor space in the the spokesman said, “We learn Shops at Target kicked off on Metreon complex, directly from each real estate develop- Sunday with five stores, includ- Macy Inc.’s Terry J. Lundgren said his company is taking below CityTarget. The ment. We’ll take a thoughtful ing The Webster, which featured share from rival J.C. Penney and is well-positioned to stores will not share a look at it” and decide how a selection of men’s and women’s square off with the encroaching Amazon. PAGE 1 common entrance. to proceed. fashion. Co-branded merchandise “C9 has been a strong The store’s launch was from the second flight of shops — Tom Ford was unapologetic and entertaining Tuesday performer and we’ve revealed here Tuesday there will be only four in the fall night in an interview with Fern Mallis at the 92Y in New expanded into differ- when Target previewed — will be sold in all 1,764 Target York City. PAGE 1 ent categories,” said a fall looks of its owned stores and on target.com. Target Corp. spokes- and exclusive labels. Odin owners Eddy Chai and Jeweler to the stars Lorraine Schwartz was honored man. In addition to Other brands on display Paul Birardi helped design a 20- Wednesday at The Plaza for her fund-raising work for men’s, women’s, boys’ included Merona, which piece men’s line for Target, in- cancer research. PAGE 5 and girls’ performance featured a plaid jacket cluding sweaters, Henleys, shirts, athleticwear, there’s and another in loden pants, shoes and accessories. Fendi’s Baguette is back in the spotlight with limited apparel for infants with black trim for Prices will range from $14.99 for editions of six of the bag’s most famous iterations and a and toddlers, sports $34.99 each, a trench- a beanie hat to $99.99 for a jacket. book chronicling its history slated for next month. PAGE 6 watches, bras with coat with a pink paisley “They have a fabulous per- compression fit for pattern for $50, Jackie spective on men’s style that re- E-tailer Yoox Group reported a 25.6 percent drop in net more support, cardio O.-style sheath dresses ally speaks to the style-savvy profits for the first three months of the year. PAGE 6 tanks and men’s tech in green with a tie at the guy and we’re looking forward muscle shirts with neck for $34 and a belted to bringing that aesthetic to our Chanel confirmed Wednesday that it has signed Brad Pitt UV protection and orange style guests across the country,” said a as the face of its No.5 fragrance. PAGE 7 moisture wicking. Merona’s with pock- Target spokeswoman. “With the trench, ets for $27.99. Besides New Yo r k ’ s Kirna Michael Phelps was honored Monday night at the CityTarget strat- M o s s i m o Zabête, which created a 100- 34th annual American Image Awards sponsored by the polkadot AQUINO egy, we reach a blouse, Supply Co. piece women’s collection for American Apparel and Footwear Association. PAGE 8 more urban con- Mossimo’s showed cords The Shops, San Francisco’s The JOHN sumer,” said the skirt and in mustard, Curiosity Shoppe will be offer- BY Vidal Sassoon, the legendary London-born hairdresser spokesman. “We looked Merona red, lilac ing a 60-piece home line. The last who revolutionized hairstyling by creating the geometric at all of our owned brands Kole’s ankle and green shop, also in the home category, PHOTO bob, died Wednesday in Los Angeles of leukemia. PAGE 8

and chose C9” because San boot. for $22.99. will be revealed today. MODEL Retailers are hoping that Dad’s going to get a boatload of apparel for Father’s Day this year. PAGE MW1

Hanes is adding a stretch undershirt to its assortment Nordstrom Outlook Strong for 2012 in an effort to address the popularity of the slim-fit trend “We are investing a lot of en- Vince. He said Kate Spade ranks in men’s wear. PAGE MW4 By DAVID MOIN ergy, time and resources.…Last as Nordstrom’s 22nd largest ven- September, we went to free dor, with nearly $60 million in Underwear firm 2(x)ist is on the fast track to becoming NORDSTROM INC. is poised for shipping and returns. It’s very sales at Nordstrom stores last a multicategory men’s lifestyle brand, starting with the another strong year. expensive,” but necessary, “if year, and was being recognized debut of timepieces later this month. PAGE MW4 “We think it’s going to be a we want to be the customers’ for successfully expanding be- great 2012,” Blake Nordstrom, choice online. They were re- yond handbags to home, eyewear, ON WWD.COM president of Nordstrom Inc., said ally demanding it.” He also said fragrance, hosiery and women’s at the retailer’s annual meet- the online merchandising is ex- apparel. “We sold 43,000 Kate ing on Wednesday in Seattle, panding since customers expect Spade iPhone cases,” he said. He FASHION: Joe Fresh creative director Joe Mimran showed which was upbeat, devoid of “the full choice” online. also said his company was among an upbeat fall collection, where fabrics and color, much any controversy, and marked by Nordstrom said he couldn’t the first to pick up Kate Spade with a decidedly Sixties vibe, were king. For more, see executives noting sustained in- be more pleased with last year’s ready-to-wear in 2009. WWD.com/fashion-news. vestments in technology and its purchase of HauteLook, the Pete Nordstrom characterized number-one competitive edge — flash-sale site, which is having Vince as “a pretty coveted brand customer service. some “pretty good gains” and not superbroadly distributed,” TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS Nordstrom further lifted the gathering members, with more ranking as Nordstrom’s 51st larg- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. mood when he said the company than eight million subscribers. est vendor, generating $39 mil- COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. will today report a 13.7 percent Nordstrom this year bought a lion in sales at the store last year. VOLUME 203, NO. 97. THURSDAY, MAY 10, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, total sales increase for the first stake in Bonobos. Erik Nordstrom, president of March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine quarter, and a comparable-store Nordstrom also recently start- stores, discussed how the compa- Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, increase of 8.5 percent. In 2011, ed locating Rack outlets near ny’s service culture pervades the Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at Nordstrom posted a 12.7 per- its full-line Nordstrom stores in organization by citing one mem- New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses cent sales rise, and a 7.2 percent Dallas and Seattle, among other ber of the housekeeping crew to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S comparable-store increase. He locations. Rather than the stores who discovered some Nordstrom WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, also cited a strong rate of inven- cannibalizing sales from each packages in the parking lot of a call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent tory turn, 5.6 percent and areas other, Nordstrom said, “We think Connecticut store, and tracked label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless where the company is investing, there’s a healthy synergy having down the customer all the way to we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on including personal stylists. The Rack next to our full-line store.” John F. Kennedy Airport in New all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all company has 1,300 stylists, or Rack surpassed $2 billion in Yo r k , where he returned the editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints three times as many as two years sales last year. packages. The worker wouldn’t of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at ago. He also said the company At the meeting, Nordstrom’s accept car fare from the custom- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that is expanding its mobile point of 20-year-old tradition of recogniz- er. “That type of motivated ac- we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at sale introduced with last year’s ing top vendors was continued. countability, we work on it a lot,” P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED summer anniversary sale. Pete Nordstrom, president of Erik Nordstrom said. “We don’t ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER “E-commerce represents a merchandising, gave the store’s nail it all the time, but fortunate- UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR tremendous growth opportu- “partners in excellence” award ly we have people who care a lot DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A nity for us,” Nordstrom said. to Kate Spade New York and about customers.” SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. You talking to me? PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONEBY PHOTO

HAL REITER OF HERBERT MINES ASSOCIATES // INDUSTRY LEADER AND LOYAL READER REACH EVERYBODY WHO’S ANYBODY IN FASHION 4 WWD THURSDAY, MAY 10, 2012 Ford on Family, Fashion and Film {Continued from page one} not the only creative designer sitting in Aries and she just turned 64. I Google my Tom Ford and this company. So I thought, “All right, interviewer right before I come on. Then Fern Mallis who do I admire, who has potential and you have to disarm them.” who doesn’t conflict?” When she started in about aging, he said, “Am I aging? You are freaking me HOW DOMENICO DE SOLE AND THE INNER CIRCLE out — I’m gay, I’m aging, what is this a DEALT WITH THE PROSPECTIVE TAKEOVER roast? Am I gaining weight?” We were like the cast of “Friends.” You While the Tom Ford-isized Gwyneth couldn’t separate us. We stuck together. Paltrow at this year’s Oscars was one of We spent a good part of every morning his proudest fashion moments, he sound- talking about what happened the night ed even more excited describing how he before, what should we do…and then bumped into two of the “Downton Abbey” we would try to design. It was very, very actresses at Monday’s Met ball. And the stressful and it was tough. But we stuck fact that Amazon’s Jeff Bezos wore a Tom together and the company stuck together. Ford tuxedo was an added bonus — and “he paid retail.” FALLING OUT OF FAVOR Quick-witted as Ford was, he broached WITH YVES SAINT LAURENT more serious subjects, like the fallout at He was very friendly at first. We knew Gucci Group and Yves Saint Laurent, how each other and he very much wanted me drinking was once an escape and why he to design the collection.…As things start- does not carry a cell phone. Judging from ed to go well and we started to get good his rapid answers and insistence that you reviews, he was no longer my friend. I ac- tell people repeatedly you love them, the tually have some wonderful handwritten Texas-born, London-based Ford appeared letters, very beautiful handwriting. “In 13 to be in a very good place. Three films are minutes, you have destroyed what I have in the works, but shooting won’t start any- worked for for 40 years.” I didn’t take it time soon now that he is doing women’s very well while he was alive. He was very ready-to-wear, has 20-plus fragrances and pointed about me in the press. I haven’t a thriving men’s business. seen or talked to Pierre [Bergé] since “In general, I am the most comfortable then but I have to say one of the reasons and happy that I have ever been in my I wanted to work at Yves Saint Laurent is entire life. I feel very satisfied. It doesn’t that, like most people, I was an incredible mean I want to die tomorrow or anything, fan. I was a little devastated that he felt but I feel very much myself,” he said. that way, but then our sales were great, Here, a recap of some of the many our reviews were great and more and opinions he shared with Mallis during more people were wearing our clothes. a 100-minute conversation in front of a sell-out crowd. THE FINAL BOW AT GUCCI IN 2004 We were no longer a public company. We BULLIED FOR CARRYING A BRIEFCASE AS A KID were not going to be able to run the com- The big thing was to put rocks in a sock pany with the autonomy we had. I flew to and swing it around — “Whack!” And of the Oscars but I was not there very long. I course they slit my bike tires. I didn’t got right back on a plane and flew to Paris want to carry a bookbag. I thought it for my last Yves Saint Laurent show. In a looked messy. And it was a real man’s lot of ways, I feel I willed my departure briefcase. When you’re 7 years old, a real from Gucci. I knew in 2002 I couldn’t keep briefcase is like luggage.…I am work- going. I had everything I wanted in my ing with Brett Ratner, judging some an- life. I had a wonderful person in my life. I tibullying films. Individuality is key. We had so much and yet I was not happy. should all be able to be who we are. GONE TOO FAR WHETHER HE RECOGNIZED I had been drinking always but I started HE WAS GAY AS A CHILD drinking more. I was no longer drinking No, am I gay? First of all, I hate that to relax and to be social. I was drinking to

word. Of course I’m gay, but I don’t like EICHNER escape and that is a very different kind of these labels. It’s not how I define myself. drinking. I knew had to quit.…That rapid Ye s , I’m gay, but I’m also known to be STEVE swing — trend after trend, season after sea- BY anal retentive, a pain in the ass. son and the globalization, which we helped

PHOTO create in the world where all of a sudden ON MAKING IT everyone was buying the same thing — was Yo u never make it, especially in this indus- draining. We were producing 16 collections try where you constantly churn out stuff, I “Azealia Banks right now is amazing and a year as well as going to business meet- things. You never finish. In the last year, TOM’S BON MOTS Lianne La Havas is also great. But, c’mon, ings because I was on the board. It was too I’ve had a comeback, I’ve been finished, I’ve MAYBE IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO I grew up in the Sixties and the Seventies. much. I really couldn’t take it anymore. come back again. You can’t rest.…I bought a with his Hollywood connection, but Tom Put on the Bee Gees and immediately I’m house and then another house and another Ford delivered his lines — one-liners to ‘Staying Alive.’” THE EASY LIFE house. I bought great art and a lot of mate- be precise — like a pro. So many people I really thought I was going to retire and rial things which did not make me happy. wanted to hear what he had to say that the I “We are on camera so, yeah, there is a I was never ever going back to fashion. I Sometimes you have to be lucky enough to event sold out four months ago and upstairs little powder there. Yes, of course, I do not hadn’t played golf in years. I bought some be given all those things to realize that. seating had to be added for live-stream come out fully made up every day but if I new golf clubs. Can you imagine me golf- viewing. (The only other luminary who have a little pimple or something I am going ing? I was pretty good as a kid. Now golf DAWN MELLO’S WORDS OF WISDOM required a second round of seats at the Y to get a little concealer to cover it up.” shoes have changed. They don’t wear steel Dawn taught me one of the great, great was Woody Allen.) cleats any more so I had them custom lessons in life: “Only hire people you Here, some of Ford’s ad-libs: I “A man can’t have a facelift very well made. I also insisted on still playing with want to have dinner with.” because they cut here and then you have wooden clubs. I was bored out of my mind. I “It’s funny because my family has been your sideburns in your ear. I quite like my THIS IS YOUR FINAL ANSWER in Texas since the 1840s or something. beard. There is this little gap here. I am HOW FILM DIFFERS FROM FASHION As a designer, design director or any cre- I put on a cowboy hat and I don’t look always looking to see whose got the hairs It’s very, very different. The film indus- ative person, you have to hire great peo- stupid. Most people look stupid and, with growing out of the side of the ears.” try is slow and I would lose my mind. ple, support them and make them feel me, it’s like it just grew there. It’s very Yo u can really only make a movie every comfortable so they can contribute and bizarre. I actually look surprisingly good I “I relax by skiing, riding and playing tennis. couple of years. I love to design. I am a give you their best. You have to have a vi- in jeans and a plaid shirt on my horse in a And I figured out why. When you’re involved commercial fashion designer. I always sion, inspire them and lead them slowly cowboy hat.” with any of those things, and other sports as design jackets with two sleeves. I don’t towards your vision. But in the end, this is well, you can’t be thinking of anything else.” design jackets with three sleeves or the not a democracy and you may say, “That is I “I was one of those kids who was never layers and layers come off like little dolls a great thing but I don’t want to do that.” comfortable being a child. I wanted to hang I “My grandmother was married six times. from Russia. Fashion for me is a creative out with adults. I wanted to listen to what they She liked husband number three the best. endeavor but it is not art for me. ADDING STELLA MCCARTNEY, were saying. I wanted to go to cocktail parties. His name was Hal. By the time she married ALEXANDER MCQUEEN AND NICOLAS I ended up mixing a few too many in my time.” the last time, she was 77 and she just called MAKING DESIGN YOUR OWN GHESQUIÈRE TO THE GUCCI GROUP him Hal and he didn’t seem to mind.” If you’re going to be a fashion designer I took my job very seriously. I was a good I “Moving to Santa Fe coming from Texas and you’re going to be relevant, you have corporate soldier. When François Pinault was very exotic. I mean, Charles Manson I “I want to hear everyone’s opinion, I want to be part of the time. You also have to invested $3.3 billion in our company, was living there. Many of the roads were to digest all of it and then I make a decision. have a sense of history and pick up the I was the only creative designer and I dirt. There were hippie communes.” And I usually don’t waiver once it’s decided.” spirit of those who came before you and thought it was very important that I was then make it your own. Coco Chanel once WWD THURSDAY, MAY 10, 2012 5 WWD.COM

said, “Creativity is the art of concealing found a circle skirt, looked at how the your sources.” Now we all suck up inspi- seams were made, ran back to the office, ration from everywhere. You can take a sketched the circle skirts and put them on FASHION SCOOPS Ford on Family, Fashion and Film direct line from me to Halston but you can her desk. So I learned on the job. take Halston back to Madeleine Vionnet right back. Open a Vionnet book and you MEETING HIS LIFE PARTNER, RICHARD BUCKLEY PRESSMAN POKES: Former Barneys New been set. H&M entered the Dallas will see a lot of things that Halston took. I went to a fashion show and this silver- Yo r k chief Gene Pressman took a tongue- market last August with a store at haired guy was staring at me with these in-cheek poke at Bergdorf Goodman’s the NorthPark Mall, while a Galleria THE ROAD NOT TAKEN piercing water-blue eyes. It scared me be- Linda Fargo Tuesday at a Woolmark Co. Dallas unit opened in March. In another life I would love to be a cosmet- cause I absolutely saw and knew my en- event co-hosted with WWD, asking if — SHARON EDELSON ic surgeon because it’s architectural. You tire future. At the end of the show, I just Bergdorf ’s was still carrying the Lisa know, you are trying to figure out where bolted. About 10 days later, Cathy asked Perry collection. Pressman was clearly PRIZE FIGHT: Cédric Charlier, Julien David, the seams go. Can I do it in one piece like me to pick up some clothes at Women’s aware that Barneys had reached an Vika Gazinskaya, Calla Haynes, Thomas Halston? Can you formaldehyde DNA? Wear Daily. Richard was…at Women’s agreement the day before in which Tait and Nicolas Andreas Taralis are the Wear Daily…He was standing on the roof Perry Capital, run by Lisa Perry’s hedge six finalists going head-to-head for FOLLOWING OTHER DESIGNERS’ WORK — I’m telling this from Richard’s vantage fund husband Richard, had become the this year’s Andam Fashion Award. [I follow] every other designer’s work. I ad- point now — and someone asked if he was majority owner of Barneys. Valued at 230,000 euros, or about

mire so many young designers. I met Joseph seeing anyone. He said, “No, there was “I think Lisa Perry has enough $300,000 at current exchange, the Altuzarra last night [at the Met] and he sent this guy I had seen at a fashion show” and stores uptown now to carry her French prize will be awarded on July me the sweetest e-mail this morning. It is at that moment the elevator door opened collection,” Fargo, senior vice 5 by a 24-member jury made up of so wonderful watching somebody’s career and there I was. Richard jumps in the el- president, fashion office and store both Andam sponsors and fashion take off. And Joseph is such a nice person. I evator and he’s practically tap dancing.… presentation at Bergdorf ’s, replied professionals, including Delphine Arnault, admired him before I met him. We had three dates. We were living to- good-naturedly. Lisa Perry has a deputy managing director of Christian

gether four weeks later; he gave me the flagship on Madison Avenue and Dior, representing the LVMH Group; ADVICE FOR ASPIRING DESIGNERS keys to his apartment and we have lived a store in Sag Harbor, N.Y., and is Pierre Bergé, representing the Pierre It might be the same thing that people together ever since. carried at Barneys. Bergdorf ’s carried Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation; used to tell me when I said I wanted to the line up to a couple of years ago. Federico Marchetti, founder and chief be an actor, which is, “If there is any- LOVE AND MARRIAGE — ARTHUR FRIEDMAN executive officer of Yoox Group; Sarah thing else in the world that you would be I would absolutely get married to Andelman, purchasing manager and happy doing, do that.” I’m serious. This·· Richard [Buckley.] By the way, the feder- creative director of Colette; Pamela is the harshest industry. I have worked in al government does not recognize same- Golbin, chief curator of fashion and the film industry with people like Harvey sex marriages.…I have always wanted textiles at the Les Arts Décoratifs; Weinstein, who is a great man but he is children, but I think I’d better get busy Humberto Leon, co-owner of Opening also very tough. But, I’m telling you, that soon because I still want to be able to Ceremony, and Nicole Phelps, executive industry is easy compared to what we do. pick them up. editor of Style.com. Having a Parisian project in view is a ON DROPPING OUT OF NYU TAKING FOUR OR FIVE BATHS A DAY prerequisite to be eligible for the prize. AND ACTING IN COMMERCIALS If I’m sending e-mails and I get all wound The winner will also receive two I was going to Studio 54 a lot.…I had 12 up and stressed and don’t know what to seasons’ worth of mentoring from national commercials running at the do with myself for 20 minutes. I just go Pierre-Yves Roussel, chief executive same time. Half of them are under dif- soak in hot water and lie there, thinking, officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis ferent names and you “What should I do?” Vuitton’s fashion division, as well as TORRES

will never find them. So it’s meditative. a donation of Swarovski Elements

There was a Tom SON to the value of 10,000 euros, or

Ford in SAG when I WALKING AROUND AT JA $13,250. Canadian department store BY

Am I aging? joined. I didn’t really HOME MOSTLY NAKED Hudson’s Bay Co. has also pledged want to be an actor. I Ye s , don’t you walk to buy the winner’s spring-summer kind of wanted to be You are freaking around your house PHOTO 2013 collection, with the fall lines of a movie star. But I was naked sometimes? Sofia Vergara and Lorraine Schwartz all six finalists due to go on sale this also very insecure. I me out — I’m gay, September on Thecorner.com, Andam’s was doing this Prell THE DIGITAL WORLD LORRAINE’S WORLD: Jeweler to the stars exclusive online retail partner. shampoo commercial. I’m aging, what is I live on the Internet, Lorraine Schwartz, received a bit of her Past Andam winners include Giles This hairdresser was absolutely. I do not own star treatment Wednesday, as Deacon, Gareth Pugh and, most recently, brushing my hair, I carry a cell phone but she was honored at New York’s Plaza Anthony Vaccarello. don’t want to do the this a roast? Am I I am on the computer for her fund-raising work for cancer The four finalists for Andam’s lisp and then I will be eight hours a day. I research. Hosted by the Albert Einstein First Collections Award, worth 60,00 the next stereotype, gaining weight? feel like if something College of Medicine, the luncheon drew euros, or $80,000, are: Calla Haynes, and he said, “You’re really happens, some- hundreds of well-known New Yorkers, Simon Jacquemus, Céline Méteil and Pièce losing your hair.” I body is going to get including Adrien Arpel, Judith Ripka, Tina d’Anarchive. — KATYA FOREMAN just panicked and to me. I want to be Knowles, Kyle MacLachlan and Willie Geist, started to obsess that my hair was starting looking and living and engaged. It’s just who emceed the event. Urbanears’ to recede. a personal thing and I can’t stand to talk Schwartz, who lost her mother to denim to someone on a cell phone. If someone cancer in 1989, told WWD: “When it headphones. GETTING A B.A. IN ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN calls me on one, I will say, “Let’s talk comes to cancer research, I’m such It was a combination of interior design later when you are on a hard line.” a supporter of that because I think and architecture. I wanted to be an ar- so many people are unaware of how chitect. I transferred back to Parsons in KEEPING UP WITH THE NEWS much just a little donation matters.” New York. I took all of my electives in I read The Daily Beast’s Cheat Sheet and The designer, who stressed the fashion. In 1984-85, I worked in the press The International Herald Tribune. I live importance of awareness, medical office at Chloé in Paris. I packed up in London and it takes me exactly the research and giving, also talked about shoes, sent back clothes, organized the time·· from my house to my office to read jewelry, as she motioned to her friend, Chloé sample closet — the same things it. I am very much an American but I do actress Sofia Vergara, whom she dubbed everyone does when they start out. miss the international take on the news a “jewelry fiend.” when I am here — rather than “Live at 5: “J e w e l r y to me, its like candy,” DECIDING ON FASHION WHILE SICK Five New Ways to Reduce Cellulite.” Vergara chimed in, enthusiastically. “I PLAYING THE BLUES: Denim can now IN BED ON A SCHOOL TRIP TO MOSCOW see jewelry, I go to the store or when be worn on ears, too. Stockholm- I was stuck in my room, it was two in the LEAVING NEW YORK my stylist brings me jewelry, the whole based headset brand Urbanears morning and I was thinking, ‘What am I I loved New York when I was young. I world stops. There’s nothing more has launched headphones with a going to do?’ I literally sat up in bed and used to hate to even go to the country beautiful than jewelry. They are like raw denim finish, indigo-colored thought, “Fashion. I have always been ob- for the weekend because I was afraid I toys.…I play with them at night before ear cushions and a fabric-covered sessed with fashion.” It was just, “Ping,” would miss something. But at this stage I go to sleep, before Lorraine has to cord. The brand prelaunched the which is how things happen with me. I in my life I feel as though…you probably take them back, and then I cry.” novelty headphones at Apple Stores just think about things and then the an- notice maybe not that I close my eyes a The passionate Vergara, who wore and on apple.com in the U.S. earlier swer comes. lot when I talk because I get overstimu- Lorraine Schwartz diamond dangling this month, and will roll them out lated. Everything is so stimulating in earrings encrusted with dark blue worldwide on May 23. They retail at 80 LANDING THE FIRST JOB New York. Even when I was trying to sapphires and diamonds, as well as euros, or $104 at current exchange. I drew up a fashion portfolio. I wanted to sleep, I could feel the vibration. diamond bangles, said that sometimes she — LAURE GUILBAULT get a job with this lovely woman, Cathy goes overboard with her bauble obsession. Hardwick. I went outside 575 Seventh ON THE INFLUENCE OF HIS MANY- “People always say that if it wasn’t MAIL ALERT: Having staged its first ready- Avenue with a bunch of quarters — this TIMES-MARRIED LIZ TAYLOR- for my stylist, I’d go out looking like a to-wear show in March following five was before cell phones —and I just called INSPIRED GRANDMOTHER Christmas tree,” she said. seasons on the couture circuit, Maison and called and called every 10 minutes. She was one of these Texas women — big — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Rabih Kayrouz is the latest fashion She finally saw me. I showed her my port- hair, big makeup, big Cadillac El Dorado, label tapped to design a capsule folio. I had graduated from Parsons and she always had gifts and presents. She LONE STAR STYLE: H&M is venturing collection for French mail-order giant she assumed since I was showing her used to say one thing and I don’t know if deep into the heart of Texas for the La Redoute. The brand’s Lebanese a fashion portfolio, I studied fashion. she stole this from Auntie Mame: “You opening of two stores. A 19,400-square- founder revisited house classics for the Anyway, I got the job. She then said later have one decision to make in life. You foot unit at the Baybrook Mall in line which offers knit dresses, tailored it was because I had pretty hands. The can either be happy or not be happy.” the Greater Houston area will bow brightly-colored pants and silk T-shirts, first day on the job she said, “Draw some May 31. At the Willowbrook Mall, a the latter carrying a hand-drawn circle skirts.” So I went downstairs to the ANYTHING ON THE BUCKET LIST? 25,600-square-foot unit is slated to pomegranate print. The collection will double R train, went to Bloomingdale’s, Just to have maybe 40 more years of this. open, however a date has not yet go on sale online June 26. — K.F.

ZD  DLQGG 30  6 WWD THURSDAY, MAY 10, 2012 Fendi’s Baguette Takes Center Stage valuing the company at $950 The six Fendi By MILES SOCHA million. In 2001, LVMH bought reedition bags. Prada’s 25.5 percent holding for PARIS — It’s baaack — the orig- about $260 million and has sub- inal “It” bag, that is. sequently bought out all minor- Fendi’s Baguette — the shoul- ity shareholders. der jewel that helped ignite Beccari noted that Fendi never the luxury handbag craze and stopped selling the Baguette, and propelled a bidding war for the has since turned out more than Roman house — is back in the 1,000 versions of the style, in mate- spotlight. Next month will see the rials ranging from fur and sequins launch of a 345-page Rizzoli tome to crocodile skin. The reeditions chronicling the Baguette’s his- include a denim style embroi- tory, and limited editions of six of dered with flowers, and another the bag’s most famous iterations pavéd in colorful embroideries are slated to arrive in Fendi bou- and small mirrors. tiques worldwide, followed by a He credits the handbag’s di- series of in-store events. versity for its longevity. The initiatives, marking the “The fashion world is right bag’s 15th birthday, also signal a now saturated and bombarded

strategic thrust for the company, by real or presumed ‘It’ bags,” FOLCHER where new chairman and chief he said. “But for a long time, the executive officer Pietro Beccari Baguette has abolished the ‘fash- is putting Fendi’s iconic prod- ionable’ handbag convention, the LAURENT ucts at the forefront of develop- one that provided the same hand- BY ment. The move echoes some of bag for everyone, a coveted object the work he did in his previous to be flaunted in its uniformity.” STYLED role as executive vice president at Louis Vuitton, where a Core Values ad campaign lit a flame BOYADJIAN; under Vuitton’s historic mono-

gram leather goods. FREDERIC

“In this time of a quick- BY changing, fast-paced world, it is important to remain close PHOTO to one’s roots and values. The moil. In handbags, consum- Its short strap and diminutive size on fashion than her home,” she Baguette represents the perfect ers have been gravitating were counterintuitive to the func- writes. “Once Fendi loaned expression of this and of Fendi’s toward quieter styles “with a tional, even ergonomic approach us items, everyone was more DNA,” Beccari told WWD in an little more longevity,” Burke of what was on the market in the willing to do so, which helped exclusive interview, his first said, noting that, “Hermès Nineties. The fact that it came us dramatically in conveying since joining Fendi in February. hasn’t suffered during the with a multitude of embellish- Carrie’s decadence.” “It’s probably true that the economic crisis.” ments was a welcome reprieve Asked if the “It” bag phenom- Baguette was the bag that in- Burke stressed that there from the monotony and uniform enon still persists, Venturini vented a fashion for bags and are pitfalls to “It” bags, prin- nature of fashion then. “We were Fendi said she detects an almost probably initiated the so-called The Fendi cipally the risk of demand all dressed like black spiders,” opposite trend. ‘It’ bag phenomenon. But thanks Baguette book. withering once the market be- Venturini Fendi recalled. “We have seen so many bags, to its unique shape that embod- comes saturated. Scarcity helped, too. so many companies that weren’t ies the whole history of a mai- To be sure, the “It” bag phe- “When an ‘It’ runs out, it can “Fendi was small at the time. leather goods specialists making son, the Baguette has evolved nomenon — exemplified by the come to a screeching halt.… Yo u couldn’t find the bag so eas- bags,” she said in an interview. “I into a timeless piece.” Baguette — has waned in recent Growing strategic businesses in ily and that made it precious. It think everyone was trying —some- Although Beccari declined years, industry observers agreed. prudent ways is probably where started to become like a fever,” times too hard — to do ‘It’ bags.” to talk numbers, market sources Pamela Golbin, chief fashion brands are leaning more today,” Venturini Fendi explained. “I The consequence? “We want estimate Fendi has already sold curator of fashion and textiles he said. “I would rather have a always say: It was the right bag real bags again. We’re going back close to a million units of the at Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris, brand with a strong category of at the right moment.’” to leather,” said Venturini Fendi, slim-lined purse, small enough said the trend was a reaction business rather than an ‘It.’” The Baguette also foreshad- noting this impulse yielded the to tuck under the arm like a loaf to the minimalist fashions pio- Burke cited Celine, Givenchy owed the use of celebrities as Peekaboo bag, a discreet framed of French bread. Fendi Baguette neered by Belgian designers and Valentino among European marketing vehicles for leather handbag she likes best in hand- bags retail from about $1,000 up and Austrian Helmut Lang as brands that have done a good goods, although Venturini Fendi stitched Selleria leather. “I think to $3,000 and more. the millennium approached. job building a solid accessories insisted all of its famous devo- we are in a moment where we “It was very spontaneous. “There was no decorative em- business, and placing limits on tees came calling, not the other want simple or very, very high There was no marketing plan bellishment. It was the perfect distribution. way around. Among the first was design…the most exquisite leath- around this bag,” Silvia Venturini time for accessories to become According to sources, top lux- Madonna, snapping up several er…or something surprising, col- Fendi recalled about her 1997 in- the central part of the ward- ury players like Chanel tightly Baguettes at the Rome shop. Then orful, crazy and different.” vention, characterizing it as a re- robe,” she explained. control quantities of their most came a call from Patricia Field, To that end, Fendi in 2008 action to minimalism. At the time, Today, “there’s more of a bal- in-demand handbags so as to not who asked if she could borrow mounted a design competition she recalled that handbags were ance between accessories and endanger their coveted status. some for Sarah Jessica Parker’s in Asia called “Design Yo u r mainly functional objects, fre- clothes,” she stressed, character- For his part, Beccari stressed new series, “Sex and the City.” Dream Baguette” and com- quently black and often “boring.” izing the handbag as a “very de- that, “Fendi wants to go for a “It’s like a marketing case missioned one-off versions “They were treated like ac- sirable object,” but without the less compulsive and feverish study, but really it wasn’t,” from famous artists, including cessories and very separate hysteria that once engulfed it. consumption.” Venturini Fendi marveled. Jeff Koons, Damien Hirst and from fashion. You didn’t see According to Robert Burke, Venturini Fendi recalled that Parker, among contributors Richard Prince, that were auc- many bags on the runway, only president and ceo of consul- she approached the Baguette bag to the Rizzoli tome, notes that tioned off for charity. in the showrooms,” she said. tancy Robert Burke Associates like the Roman house does its Fendi was the first big design “I’m not so obsessed by the In 1999, LVMH Moët in New York, shoes supplanted furs: with an eye to high crafts- house to loan the show items for next ‘It’ bag,” said Venturini Hennessy Louis Vuitton and handbags as an obsessional manship, surprising techniques her character. “It really opened Fendi. “I just want to follow the Prada teamed at the height of focus in recent years, possibly and being “a bit subversive.” the floodgates and influenced same path: doing things with the luxury acquisitions boom to because they are less expensive She attributes the success of the story line — especially freedom, and experimenting a take a 51 percent stake in Fendi, amidst ongoing economic tur- the Baguette to multiple factors. Carrie’s habit of spending more lot. It’s the only good recipe.”

Pacific region including China, Hong Kong and Japan, and will feature the de- Yoox Posts 25.6% Decline in Net Profits for Qtr. signer’s namesake brand as well as the T MILAN — Costs associated with invest- pared with 69.7 million euros, or $97.5 designers including Giorgio Armani, by Alexander Wang label. The collections ments in automation and technology, million, in the same period last year. Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, Brunello will also be on Thecorner.com. as well as a higher tax rate, hurt Yoox Dollar amounts have been converted Cucinelli and Marni, and this channel In addition, after Staff International Group’s bottom line in the first three at average exchange rates for the periods reported sales of 27.1 million euros, or SpA took over the license of the Just months of the year. to which they refer. $35.5 million, up 61.4 percent compared Cavalli brand from Ittierre SpA, in April For the period ended March 31, the The group’s multibrand division, with last year. At the end of December, Yo o x signed a five-year agreement with Italian e-tailer reported a 25.6 percent which comprises online stores Yoox.com, Yo o x operated 30 online stores. In the the new licensee to continue the man- drop in net profits, which fell to 1.2 mil- Thecorner.com and its newly launched first quarter, stores were added for agement of the Just Cavalli brand, which lion euros, or $1.5 million, compared footwear store Shoescribe.com, posted Barbara Bui and Pringle, in addition to originally began within the robertoca- with 1.7 million euros, or $2.3 million, in sales of 63.8 million euros, or $83.5 mil- DSquared2 in China. valli.com online store in February 2011. the same period last year. lion, up 20.7 percent, and accounting for In the second quarter of 2012, Yoox Yo o x shares closed on Wednesday Revenues climbed 30.5 percent to 91 70.2 percent of total revenues. will launch an online store for Alexander down 3.85 percent at 10 euros, or $13 at million euros, or $119.2 million, com- The group also operates stores for Wang, which will be active in the Asia- current exchange. — LUISA ZARGANI WWD THURSDAY,·· MAY 10, 2012 7 WWD.COM

inspired its transition to print. “The MEMO PAD Web is fantastic but, with the magazine, you can keep it and hold it and Macy’s Net Climbs 38.2% CHANEL’S NEW MAN: Brad Pitt’s certainly reference it,” said design editor Wendy never been above plying his wares Goodman. “You can take this with you.” {Continued from page one} on Asian TV — remember the 2008 There are three different covers strongly about the fact that we can con- spot for Japanese denim brand Edwin featuring overturned cans of paint tinue to do that. The overall unemploy- Jeans, where he invited spectators to in either blue, red or yellow. “This ment situation should actually improve We’ve added check out his backside, or perhaps magazine is a hybrid of aspirational as time goes on and with that I believe the Wes Anderson-directed Japanese design and practical information,” GDP will improve.” spot for Softbank mobile phones in added Goodman. “So the paint is The recovery has been painfully slow more jobs this which he resembled a giant banana? beautiful and luscious looking but it’s in coming, though, and merchants con- — but he’s now coming Stateside also down to earth.” tinue to look to take business from rivals. with his power of persuasion. Chanel The 220-page magazine features the “The competition is coming from the year and feel very confirmed Wednesday that it has usual New York apartment eye-candy higher-end retailers today and it’s com- signed the actor as the face of its No.5 stories, with a look at Murray Moss’ ing from the online businesses for sure,” strongly about the fragrance. Over the years, Chanel has “improbable” Midtown apartment, as Lundgren said. chosen a host of celebrity faces to For now, at least, it seems Penney’s front the 91-year-old scent — from Ali is not an immediate threat, although the fact that we can McGraw, Catherine Deneuve and Candice company is just starting a dramatic repo- Bergen to Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou sitioning under ceo Ron Johnson that has and Vanessa Paradis — but Pitt’s signing cut coupons out of the mix and will focus continue to marks the first time a man has been the store on a series of shops-in-shop. tapped to represent the brand. Macy’s appears to be picking up busi- do that. Pitt dabbled in the beauty business ness in malls where it goes head-to- in August 2008 with Kiehl’s, inking head with Penney’s. “We’re performing — TERRY J. LUNDGREN, a deal that benefited his Make It better on average in those locations,” Right organization, which funds Lundgren said. “Some of that business MACY’S INC. construction of environmentally is coming down the mall into Macy’s.” sustainable and affordable housing in Lundgren noted a clearer picture fulfill Web orders. That number will grow New Orleans for the displaced victims of how the Penney’s reinvention is de- to more than 290 by the holiday season. of Hurricane Katrina. Pitt handwrote veloping will come out next week when “This is a really big opportunity,” part of the bottle’s label, and the deal Penney’s reports its first-quarter results. Lundgren said. “It actually over time should was said to have garnered $1 million As for Amazon — which is seeking to improve our inventory turn and therefore for the charity. raise its fashion profile and cosponsored should improve our gross margin.” Chanel declined to discuss the Monday’s Costume Institute gala at the In the first quarter, Macy’s net income length or terms of the contract, who is Metropolitan Museum of Art — Lundgren rose to $181 million, or 43 cents a dilut- shooting the ads or when and where said he’d prefer to have Macy’s omni-chan- ed share, from $131 million, or 30 cents they will appear. However, industry nel positioning than be a pure Web play. a year earlier. The earnings·· came in 3 sources familiar with the celebrity “We have crystal clear evidence cents ahead of the 40 cents analysts esti- endorsement mill speculate the that the large majority, particularly of mated. Sales for the three months ended megastar is being paid at least $7 The red cover of New York Design Hunting. women, prefer to browse online and they April 28 increased $6.14 billion from million a year. Some estimates go as come into the stores, often with their $5.89 billion. Combined sales through high as $10 million annually, while friends, and try on their product, try on macys.com and bloomingdales.com rose others range down to $5 million. well as a Battery Park home that is the dresses,” the ceo said. 33.7 percent. — JULIE NAUGHTON AND PETE BORN so child-friendly that it has an indoor Macy’s is using a similar multipronged Selling, general and administrative tree house. Then there are the more approach as it plans its business. The expenses fell to 32.4 percent of sales A MCGREGOR MOMENT: Speaking of practical pieces, such as converting a company now has more than 80 stores from 33.5 percent a year earlier, helping high-profile stars in ad campaigns, 375-square-foot dentist’s office into a that are prepared to ship out goods to to offset a gross margin decline. motorcycle-mad Scotsman Ewan studio apartment. McGregor will appear in Belstaff ’s fall “I’m engaged in personal design and ad campaign, which begins shooting it’s what draws me in as a reader,” said in the U.K. today, WWD has learned. Goodman. “You always want to know why McGregor will appear alongside male people made the decisions they made.” and female models in the lifestyle The title has 74 ad pages, with campaign that will be shot by Craig 90 percent from design advertisers McDean at Goodwood, the estate in West such as Sicis, Poltrona Frau, Kravet, Sussex famous for its annual Festival SieMatic, Artemide and Ralph Pucci. of Speed motor racing competition. New York has planned to distribute For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. The ads will break in the September 75,000 copies through a combination issues of titles including Vogue, W, of newsstand and a mailing to design Bazaar and GQ. — SAMANTHA CONTI professionals and enthusiasts. The first issue hits newsstands on Tuesday HOME BODY: The new trend of Web sites but, after that, the future of the title Spaces becoming print magazines continues remains unclear. A spokeswoman with New York Design Hunting, the said the company is determining the COMMERCIAL first stand-alone shelter title to come schedule for the next one now. “I’m REAL ESTATE from the editors of New York magazine. really heartened for the support for SALES EXECUTIVES The popularity of Design Hunting, print still,” said Goodman. “We’ll see For trouser & sportcoat collection. Riviera, div of Jack Victor LTD, seek- an online newsletter on nymag.com, how this goes.” — AMY WICKS ALLOCATION ANALYST ing strong, experienced menswear Carry out allocation and replenish- salespersons to cover the U.S. better 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes ment functions. Analyze numbers and specialty store mkt. Experience & ex- determine replenishment methodolo- cellent relationships required. Several Menswear Showrooms gy. Analyze call and product group territories available. Riviera features D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 performance. Develop the initial plan an impressive assortment of better for new store inventory set up. Review, casual & dress trousers, a great selec- analyze and respond to product re- tion of domestic & imported softly tail- Billabong Taps Launa Inman Showrooms & Lofts quests from stores. Minimum of 3+ ored and semi outerwear jackets. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS years allocation experience. Experi- Contact Dino Di Girolamo, Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ence in running ad hoc reports and tel 514-866-4891 • [email protected] LAUNA INMAN has been named manag- and strengthening supply chain man- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 analysis in Excel. Strong math and Ex- ing director and chief executive officer of agement. This will provide the opportu- cel skills. Apply at www.truereligionbr Australian surfwear company Billabong nity for Billabong’s family of brands to andjeans.com/careers International Ltd. She succeeds Derek meet their full potential.” BILINGUAL SALES REP De Novo Imports’ South American O’Neill, who left the firm Tuesday. O’Neill, who had been with Billabong Sales Division is seeking a bilingual Inman, who was appointed a retail for over 20 years, had been ceo since (Native Spanish and Conversational English) sales representative with advisor for Billabong in February, has 2003, prior to which he was general man- minimum 2 years of Fashion Jewelry been charged with driving Billabong’s ager of Billabong’s European operations. sales experience. Generous benefits, plus health insurance and more. Come turnaround strategy. Prior to joining In a related move, Paul Naudé, cur- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, and join a growing and dynamic fash- PRODUCTIONS ion jewelry importing company in the the firm, Inman was managing director rently head of North American opera- Full service shop to the trade. heart of the fashion industry in NYC! of Target Australia for seven years. tions, has been named to the expanded Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Contact [email protected] “Launa has proven leadership capa- role of president of the Americas. He bilities in managing and delivering re- will add responsibility for the South sults in challenging environments and American market, in addition to his uncertain times. Launa’s appointment U.S. and Canadian duties. recognizes the tremendous importance In February, Billabong rejected its retail has assumed in our business,” said third takeover bid from private equity Ted Kunkel, chairman of Billabong. firm TPG Capital. The company said According to Inman, “We need to at the time it was prepared to discuss continue to drive our turnaround strat- other offers with TPG or other parties. egy, moving to a fully integrated operat- The Australian-based surf and sports- ing model powered by the strength of wear company owns and sells brands our brands. The first priorities of the under its flagship name, as well as Von (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] turnaround strategy will be to extract Zipper and Tigerlily in more than 100 greater value from our retail network countries. — LISA LOCKWOOD

ZDDLQGG 30  8 WWD THURSDAY, MAY 10, 2012 WWD.COM

OBITUARY down the street, followed by a Academy locations and 32 pack of screaming girls.” Sassoon salon locations. Regis In 1967, Sassoon was noto- Corp. acquired the units in 2002, riously paid $5,000 by Roman but Sassoon remains a regis- Vidal Sassoon, Famed Hairdresser Polanski to cut Farrow’s hair for tered trademark of P&G. Regis “Rosemary’s Baby,” giving her a entered into a licensing agree- cropped look that her then hus- ment with P&G to use the name. Vidal Sassoon band Frank Sinatra didn’t like. By Mark Hayes, creative director then, he had built a string of salons of Sassoon International, said, in his native country and decided “Our industry has lost a vision- to open in New York. His Beverly ary and creative genius, and the Hills salon came in the Seventies, world has lost an amazing human when Sassoon also settled in Los being. The world rarely encoun- Angeles. Meanwhile, he was grow- ters someone who had the pro- ing a hair care line that, in the found impact that Vidal has had, Eighties, became known for the and everyone in the industry is television tag line, “If you don’t indebted to Vidal’s courage and look good, we don’t look good.” single-minded vision, the effects

Sassoon trims the hair of fashion designer Mary Quant. PHOTO BY MICHAEL GORDON PHOTO BY

“Vidal Sassoon: The Movie,” friend. Vidal was not only instru- By RACHEL BROWN spoke with him Tuesday morn- mental in revolutionizing and com- ing shortly before Sassoon was mercializing hair in the West, but VIDAL SASSOON, the legend- scheduled for a chemotherapy he kept hair as an art form intact.” ary London-born hairdresser session. “He said, ‘I’ve lived with Sassoon was born in London who revolutionized hairstyling dignity, and I’d like to die with in 1928 to Jewish parents Betty by creating the geometric bob, dignity,’ and he did,” said Gordon. and Jack Sassoon. Sassoon began died Wednesday in Los Angeles Gordon said that Sassoon in hairdressing at age 14 by ap- of leukemia. He was 84. made hairdressing cool, but he prenticing for Adolph Cohen. Sassoon is best known for the stressed Sassoon’s legacy ex- Later, he jumped London salons sharp, asymmetric fi ve-point hair- tends beyond the hair industry. to work for Raymond Bessone. cut he introduced in 1963. At a “Anybody can become hugely He didn’t set out to be a hair- time when Women’s Lib was in important if they really have dresser — his dream was to be a full swing, the wash-n-go haircut the drive, and he had the drive. soccer player — but his mother embraced by Mary Quant, Grace He’s an inspiration in general. sensed the profession suited him. RONALD DUMONT/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES Coddington and Mia Farrow be- It doesn’t have much to do with Sassoon opened his first came a symbol of women’s rejec- hairdressing, that’s just what he salon in London in 1954, but it Sassoon sold his brand, which of which will be felt for many tion of restrictive beauty regimens. ended up doing,” he said. wasn’t until the Sixties that his was reported to have gener- generations to come.” “My idea was to cut shape into John Paul DeJoria, chief execu- full impact was realized. That’s ated $110 million annually, to He is survived by his wife of the hair, to use it like fabric and tive offi cer and co-founder of John when his angular bob became a Richardson Vicks Inc. in 1983. 20 years, Ronnie, as well as chil- take away everything that was su- Paul Mitchell Systems, was sup- sensation. In his book, “Vidal: Procter & Gamble Co. snagged it dren and grandchildren. perfl uous,” Sassoon said 11 years posed to have dinner with Sassoon The Autobiography,” Sassoon two years later. The marriage with In lieu of fl owers, the family has ago in the Los Angeles Times. Monday night, but Sassoon can- recounted, “There were times in P&G would turn ugly. P&G dis- requested that memorial donations “Women were going back to work, celed because he was too tired. the Sixties and Seventies when continued the line in the U.S. and be sent to American Friends of The they were assuming their own “Vidal Sassoon was the most fa- the press were literally camped Europe late in 2002, and Sassoon Hebrew University in support of power. They didn’t have time to mous hairstylist in the history of outside my Bond Street salon, sued the company in 2003. “People The Vidal Sassoon International sit under the dryer anymore.” the world,” said DeJoria. Angus snapping the new haircuts as who are now in control of P&G Center for the Study of Anti- Sassoon was diagnosed with Mitchell, co-owner of John Paul they walked out of the door, even wanted to strip me of my persona Semitism, 11500 West Olympic leukemia in 2009. Bumble and Mitchell Systems and the late Paul photographing the staff them- and take it for themselves,” he said, Boulevard, Suite 512, Los Angeles, bumble founder Michael Gordon, Mitchell’s son, added, “Vidal was selves wearing the latest looks. when he launched the lawsuit. CA 90064, or orafhu.org. A service who produced the documentary a lifelong inspiration, mentor and In our heyday we were chased Today, there are 14 Sassoon will be planned at a later date. AAFA’s Image Night By DAVID MOIN

WHILE ALL THE glitter and glam raged uptown Monday night at the Costume Institute gala, at Cipriani 42nd Street, the mood was tame but fi lled with pride and warmth. An American sports hero, Michael Phelps, was honored at the 34th annual American Image Awards sponsored by the American Apparel and Footwear Association. Frank The athlete, who won eight gold medals Tworecke Yeohlee at the Beijing Olympics, received a stand- of Warnaco Teng and ing ovation from the crowd of 385, and and Helen Michael Phelps with kids from the Steven on stage, he was surrounded by children McCluskey. Madison Square Boys & Girls Club. Tanger

from a swim class at the Madison Square JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY Boys & Girls Club, which Phelps some- times helps with. Receiving the AAFA’s and said Speedo pays him not to wear its her predecessor Joseph Gromek, who the year” and Kate Spade New York for humanitarian award, Phelps spoke about swimsuits, unlike Phelps who has a con- took Warnaco to new heights, and stood “lifestyle brand of the year.” what gives him as much joy as winning the tract to wear the brand. up to be recognized. Yeohlee Teng, who The AAFA dinner raised $730,000 (ex- gold — helping kids learn to swim. “That’s On a serious note, former Olympian received the “fashion maverick” award, cluding the silent auction, which at press what makes me happy. These guys put the Donna de Varona emphasized that cited her facility at 25 West 38th Street time was still being tallied) to support biggest smile on my face.” teaching children to swim can be a life- in the heart of the Garment District. the Madison Square Boys & Girls Club Phelps, who came with his mother saver. “Drowning is the second lead- It’s a combination store, showroom and summer and after-school program, as and sister, kept his message heartfelt ing cause of death for children 14 and warehouse and is an example of how well as The Michael Phelps Foundation and short, on an evening that saw several under,” she said. she’s been an advocate for revitalizing and its IM program, which helps children awards and introductions and a string Helen McCluskey, president and the domestic fashion industry. Other build self-esteem and confi dence through of quips by emcee Robert Verdi who, for chief executive officer of Warnaco, awards were given to Tanger Outlets swimming and other activities. Inside comic relief, mangled the AAFA acro- which received the global leadership for “excellence in retail,” Schwartz & Cipriani, outfi ts designed by IM children nym — “The A-A-A-F-F of A — whatever” award, gave an emotional shout-out to Benjamin for the “footwear company of were displayed on fi ve mannequins. MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS: 2(x)ist’s Lifestyle ‘B’ for Bureaucrat Push: Watches New French President François Hollande is no leader in the style stakes. come first. PAGE MW4 Page MW4

May 10, 2012

Youth Movement by JEAN E. PALMIERI  personal appearances by sports stars to chari- it’s more top-of-mind. The trend toward nar- table contributions to local hospitals. rower stuff has become noticeable to regular DAD’S GOING TO GET a boatload of apparel for Last year, total Father’s Day spending was people now. We’ve known it in the industry for Father’s Day this year — at least that’s what re- expected to reach $11.1 billion, according to a while, but now men are coming into the store tailers are hoping. the National Retail Federation, with the aver- asking for it.” Buoyed by continued strength in their men’s age consumer spending $106.49. Projections for Rothmans, which recently moved into a wear businesses, stores are loading up on slim- 2012 have not been released. larger space in New York City’s Union Square fit ties and dress shirts, shorts, colorful sports- “I think it’s going to be a surprisingly good neighborhood, is installing a Vineyard Vines wear and swimwear. Retailers are readying a apparel Father’s Day,” predicted Ken Giddon, pop-up shop for the holiday with an assort- variety of events to lure in shoppers — every- president of Rothmans. “People haven’t bought ment of casualwear offerings that are expected thing from buy-one-get-one-free promotions and a lot of apparel for the past few years, but now {Continued on page MW2}

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4 1. Beautannia Balfour Bath Oil 2. Organic Male OM4 Healing Herbal Antifungal Foot Treatment 1. Coach’s portfolio. 3. Polo Blue Sport Eau de Toilette . 2. Oliver Peoples’ LTD 4. Dior Homme Sport Eau de Toilette sunglasses. 3. Armani Jeans’ sneakers. 4. Brera watch. 5. Michael Kors’ WORKGROUP watch. 6. Polo Blue AT Sport Eau de Toilette.

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Cool{Continued from page MW1} sonal fabrications and different widths Center’sDad Annual Appeal to Fund Prostate chase. These include same pattern, dif- to resonate well with shoppers. In ad- have drawn the younger guy to the store, Cancer Research. Highlighted products ferent scale; solids balance patterns, and dition, Giddon is expecting strong sales and more-mature men are getting on include ties, bow ties and pocket squares. necktie width should relate to lapel width. of swimwear, T-shirts and trimmer knit- board as well, he said. “Neckwear had Ott said Saks’ charity initiative was un- “I think we’re going to have a good wear. “And the Father’s Day tie will be re- lost its luster and excitement over the veiled at Sotheby’s during the auction Father’s Day,” Ott added. “There’s a lot placed by the Father’s Day pocket square,” years, but we see the business coming house’s recent preview for the sale of of buy-now, wear-now behavior and we’re Giddon said. “We feel really strongly about back,” Ott said. “It’s an American staple. Edvard Munch’s “The Scream” painting, loaded for bear. People think of shorts that. Not every guy has one, and it’s an in- And it’s benefiting from the trend of peo- which turned out to be the most expensive and T-shirts, so we have lots of that, and expensive gift that comes in one size.” ple dressing up again.” artwork ever sold at auction. “Season-to- the tie thing will be the layer on top.” Don’t tell that to Saks Fifth Avenue, He said the windows at the New York date, we’ve raised $70,000 from the New Mike Nemoir, senior vice president which is preparing a “massive tie promo- flagship as well as some branches will be Yo r k store alone,” Ott said. and general merchandise manager of tion” for Father’s Day. “The tie business dedicated to the promotion. Ties will also An in-store promotion at the men’s for The Bon-Ton Stores Inc., said is going through a renaissance,” said Tom be featured in the store’s Father’s Day Manhattan flagship for Father’s Day will that while April sales were “just OK,” the Ott, senior vice president and general marketing efforts, including its catalogue include artisans visiting the store to show company got a taste of summer selling in merchandise manager of men’s wear for and online. customers how ties are created and offer- March when a heat wave blew through. the upscale retailer. “Men are now From June 14 to 16, the retailer, ing some personalization options such as “Everything we bought for summer and wearing ties because they want through its Saks Gives Back program, will monogramming. The store has also de- Father’s Day sold,” he said. “We saw re- to, not because they have to.” donate 5 percent of sales to The Society veloped six style tips that will be printed ally good conviction and great validation Novelty patterns in sea- of Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer on collar stays that are available for pur- of the things we bought. So we’re very op- timistic about Father’s Day from that shot of good news we got in March. Hopefully the business will transcend that.” Most appealing to shoppers was color, he said, especially in tops. “The customer is voting on it. It’s really important.” He said Bon-Ton has placed its bet for Father’s Day on performance golfwear 4 in polyester-cotton blend fabrics, bright solid colors, stripes and color blocks. Top brands will include PGA, Izod and Chaps, Nemoir said. He also sees opportunities in upper and premium brands such as Polo, Calvin Klein and Tommy Bahama, as well as shorts, “if we get great weath- er.” In dress shirts, the store is looking for growth from Calvin Klein, Kenneth

5 1. Coach’s wallet, 2. Tod’s boat shoes, 3. Beautannia Balfour Bath Oil, 4. Etro’s pants, 5. Mosley Tribes’ sunglasses, 6. Nautica’s wallets.

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Cole, Geoffrey Beene and the “complementary neck- New York Yankees outfielder Curtis Granderson will wear. The wider tie is outdated, so that’s a pretty nice be on hand to sign autographs for customers mak- gift to update,” he said. “We’re expecting the furnish- ing a purchase of the New York Yankees fragrance. ings business to be steady.” On June 7 at L&T, the company will host its biannual Liz Rodbell, chief merchant of Hudson’s Bay Co., Guys’ Night Out event in association with Steiner which owns Lord & Taylor, said: “We’ve had a very Sports and emceed by Z100’s Danielle Monaro, where strong spring in men’s thus far this year and expect several New York-area athletes are expected to make Father’s Day to follow suit with double-digit increas- an appearance and customers can win tickets to a es. We have a number of key items we believe strongly Ya n k e e s game or a Black Brown wardrobe. in and several men’s-focused events lined up to gen- At Men’s Wearhouse, the retailer is gearing up for erate excitement and shopping around Father’s Day. its biggest sale of the year. This year, shoppers will be We’re also pushing an online initiative to generate a able to Buy One Get One Free on almost everything personal conversation among our customers about in the store. The promotion, which starts Friday and their fathers.” runs through June 17, will be featured in TV ads, in- She expects growth to come from several areas — store marketing and online. everything from the “expanded footwear assortment, Beyond that, the company will be running a which is on fire,” to a heightened emphasis on color. Father’s Day Gift Guide online beginning May 18, “Our Black Brown polo will be the big item this year, where consumers can find the key looks for the sea- with over 28 colors in the solid pique, and an assort- son — everything from summer casual to business at- ment of stripes which we have added,” she said. In tire and colorful accessories. Many of the items will addition, she said color in men’s bottoms “has been be focused on the modern-fit suit, which reflects the explosive this spring, and we have a solid lineup for growing demand for slimmer silhouettes. In fact, the Father’s Day in over 13 colors.” company last week kicked off a new national televi- She said in dress shirts, narrower sion and online advertising campaign that encour- fit is the “big story” for Father’s Day. aged men to express their individuality by showcas- In order to drive traffic for ing young guys wearing their own takes on modern-fit Father’s Day, the company is tailored clothing. hosting three events. The first “Regardless of profession, men are redefining how is a Facebook contest that they interpret a suit and are adding casualwear and kicks off on May 25 and runs accessories, making modern suits fit their lifestyle,” through June 11 where fans said Doug Ewert, president and chief executive offi- can share the most memo- cer. “We embrace this trend and carry a vast assort- rable lessons they learned ment of modern fit, casual and classic tailored mer- from their fathers for a chandise to help any man create his own look.” chance to win a $500 The four 30-second spots showcase men wear- shopping spree. On ing suits in a contemporary way, including short June 4 at Lord & pants, no ties or bow ties, scarves and blazers over Taylor’s New T-shirts or worn with jeans. In one commercial, Men’s Yo r k flagship, Wearhouse founder George Zimmer pokes fun at him- self for being a “suit,” and said guys wearing suits today are “the digital guys, the change guys,” and “you don’t have to be one to wear one.” 1 The company is also downplaying designer and brand labels in another spot, with Zimmer saying: “It’s not so much the brand of the suit but the brand of the man who wears it.”

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7. Coach’s portfolio, 8. Nautica’s belt. STYLING PROP

ZED  LQGG 30  MW4 WWD THURSDAY, MAY 10, 2012 Men’s Week Hanes Embraces Slim Silhouette 2(x)ist to Expand Into Timepieces by ARNOLD J. KARR a longer body to the slim-fit proposition. by RACHEL STRUGATZ They were serious high-end watches. [But The direction is consistent with with this] I wanted to take the seriousness THE BIGGEST PLAYER in the men’s un- Hanesbrands’ corporate strategy, laid out UNDERWEAR FIRM 2(X)IST is on the fast of the execution and quality of design [of my derwear market is taking the slim-fit trend in recent presentations to investors and track to becoming a multicategory men’s previous endeavors] and add a fun and kind in men’s wear seriously. analysts, to “not only be number one in lifestyle brand, starting with the debut of of flavorful spirit,” Wilbur said of the $395 to Hanes, the flagship brand of Winston- every category in which we compete, but to timepieces later this month. $595 timepieces, which are made from un- Salem, N.C.-based Hanesbrands Inc., has be number one in ever subcategory, and at After revealing its expansion into swim- conventional materials such as G10 polymer, introduced for fall the Power Slim Fit Tee, every account.” Hanes enjoys unit market wear and dress and athletic socks in the past a lightweight material used in the automotive a crew-neck under- share leadership year, the company, which industry experts industry; anodized aluminum, and ceramic. shirt which, taking a in men’s under- estimate will reach about $100 million in “We feel strongly that we want to walk down cue from the growth wear and socks and sales this year, wants to try its hand in the the street and see people with the watches on of women’s shape- women’s bras, pant- ever-growing accessories market. The brand, their hand,” said Wilbur. wear, is being touted ies and sheer ho- which has seen its overall business grow He described the piece as “very three- as giving definition siery, according to nearly 25 percent year-over-year for 2010 and dimensional and skeletal,” meaning that the to the male torso figures reported by 2011, expects to follow on the same trajectory wearer can see the inner workings of the en- using “power com- Hanesbrands from for 2012, said Joey Harary, chief executive of- tire watch, not just the movement. His vision pression” construc- data compiled by ficer of Moret Group, par- was to achieve the sense of tion in a blend of 86 The NPD Group. ent company of 2(x)ist. “just the scaffolding within percent cotton and Another key el- “We feel that the tim- a building in progress” 14 percent spandex. ement of Hanes’ ing for launching the that’s “beefy” in terms of Hilton Graham, product assortment watches is perfect now volume, but is still very senior brand man- is its move to go for a couple of reasons. lightweight because of all ager for Hanes, “tagless” in its un- Market research shows the cutout detailing. noted that there’s derpants for men that our core customer 2(x)ist will unveil the a tendency to refer as it has for the past is looking for more watch collection in Las to the new item as decade in under- products from us, and Vegas later this month, “Spanx for men,” shirts. It’s being pro- with watches being the with plans for a wider re- but that the impe- moted in a new se- most dominant piece of lease later this summer, tus came from else- IANNACCONE ries of ads, debuting jewelry men wear, we just in time to hit stores where. “There’s a on May 28, featuring feel it is a great acces- for fall. Carried in more

whole change in sil- THOMAS longtime celebrity sory for us to introduce than 500 department and houette in men’s,” BY spokesman Michael at this time,” Harary Two versions of the watch. specialty stores and about he told WWD. Hilton Graham Jordan and the clos- told WWD, adding that the launch will con- 1,500 doors worldwide, including Neiman “Suits, jackets, PHOTO ing phrase “Tags are sist of one style in four editions. He expects Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s pants and jeans are moving towards a clos- annoying. So we got rid of them.” watches to gross about $3 million in whole- and its own e-commerce site, the plan is to er-fitting silhouette and that does translate Graham shared details about the compa- sale in the first year alone. offer watches to existing accounts. into an opportunity for us.” ny’s new ComfortBlend EcoSmart Tee, made The watches were designed by Jason Additionally, the company is testing an Hanes earlier addressed that opportu- from 95 percent cotton and 5 percent polyes- Wilbur, an industrial designer who has activewear collection with select stores and nity with the Slim Fit Tee, available in its ter, the latter derived from recycled plastic worked in creative consulting and developed plans to roll it out for the upcoming holiday “ComfortBlend” of 50 percent ring-spun cot- bottles. Hanesbrands’ overall involvement concept cars for Honda. According to Wilbur, season. The collection ranges in price from ton and 50 percent polyester. The new model, with EcoSmart, also used in socks and fleece- the 2(x)ist watch is based on the award- $50 to $250 and includes wicking V-neck available only in white to start with a retail wear, is expected to keep 57 million plastic winning Devon Tread 1 watch he created in vests, cargo pants and down coats. Harary price of $20 for a two-pack, adds stretch and bottles a year from winding up in landfills. partnership with Devon Works, a patented projected that activewear will become $17,500 timepiece powered by a lithium poly- one-third of 2(x)ist’s overall business in the mer rechargeable cell whose complicated near future, with a full apparel line even- movements are all made in the U.S. tually usurping the underwear category. “Doing a watch like this is really fun — Within the next two years, Harary said, the because the other watches I did were crazy, company will branch out into eyewear, skin I had to develop a movement from scratch. care and fragrances. FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA MEN’S WEAR Man of SUMMIT THE WEEK FRANÇOIS HOLLANDE: B

The president-elect His forehead is bigger than Tyra Banks’. A shorter haircut of France clearly would be more flattering.

has other things The shoulder sits very ON-DEMAND VIDEO on his mind well on his frame, making him look than sartorial clean and polished. splendor. Although The color and his unpopular fabric of the tie complement the and defeated very predictable predecessor suit shade.

Nicolas Sarkozy The sleeves are too long. Where’s was seen as that cu!? somewhat of a Way too long. fashion plate He would benefit RICHARD PHIBBS Saks Fifth Avenue Calvin Klein Inc. in the political from a shorter VF Corporation TommyDenise Hilfi Incandela ger Group The WebsterTom Murry Miami silhouette, which Karen Murray Tommy Hilfi ger Laure Heriard Dubreuil world (he even would make him look taller than his has a model 5 feet, 7 inches. wife, Carla Bruni), Give your cell phone Hollande dresses to your girlfriend. Suit more like a penny- pockets are not meant to MensWearSummit12.FORA.tv be used. Lose the bulge. pinching bureaucrat A skinnier leg would elongate despite his campaign him and look less messy. USE COUPON CODE promises to pump up As part of his promise to get WWDMENS12 FOR 20% OFF spending and tax the rid of the country’s austerity IMAGES rich to jump-start plan, Hollande could upgrade to

a better shoe. In the meantime, GETTY

the French economy. please polish them. BY PHOTO