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'Tis the Season

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'Tis the Season EDITOR KARL DO OVER HALSTON IS GETTING KARL LAGERFELD READY TO RELAUNCH ON HIS ONE-DAY GIG AS EDITOR YET AGAIN, WITH A OF THE GLOBAL NEW OWNER AND NEW NEWSPAPER DESIGN TEAM. PAGE 6 METRO. PAGE 13 MADE IN USA LL 201 FA 2 American Producers INSPIRATIONS See Signs of Rebirth NEW YORK By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN MADE IN THE USA is hot again. Driven by rising wages in China and raw mate- WWD rial price inflation — not to mention a presidential election year — there is a rebound in interest in domestic manufacturing that hasn’t been seen in a TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 generation. It’s touching almost every industry, from cars to refrigerators to even apparel and textiles, where finding the lowest-cost producer has been a core part of the industry’s strategy for more than four decades. So far, the anecdotal evidence in textiles and apparel outweighs statistical corroboration, but a slow awakening of a domestic industry once left for dead is under way. Interest in expanding or estab- lishing more production in the U.S. has been grow- ing for the past year or two in the wake of the Great Recession, as companies and consumers changed their buying habits, seeking to buy closer to the sea- son and desiring higher quality. ’Tis the At the same time, brands and retailers are look- ing to lower their risks, and a desire for Made in America goods as symbols of patriotism and job creation has crept back into the public and corpo- Season rate mind-set. President Obama made proposals to spur job creation in his State of the Union address. On the other side of the political spectrum, GOP We’re talking about fall, of course, hopeful, former Pennsylvania Sen. Rick Santorum, has suggested ways to inspire U.S. firms to bring but Chris Benz has another jobs back from overseas while his rival, former season on his mind. “It’s time Massachusetts Gov. Mitt Romney, said he would for dressing up, holiday-party punish China for unfair commercial competition. Even Super Bowl ads got into the act on Sunday, style.…American sportswear with Clint Eastwood proclaiming in a TV ad for has such a casual richness Chrysler and Jeep that it was “halftime, America, and our second half ’s about to begin” and the that’s worth celebrating, country would come back even stronger. General and it feels so right, right Electric ran a commercial proclaiming that it was now!” Here, his fall bringing refrigerator manufacturing back to the U.S. via a plant in Kentucky. muse: a poised Judy SEE PAGE 8 Garland, circa 1945. For more designer inspirations, see China Luxe Rolls On pages 4 and 5. By CASEY HALL SHANGHAI — Despite fears of a slowdown in the growth of China’s luxury retail sales, there’s still plen- ty of optimism about business prospects for 2012, the Year of the Dragon. Though China’s economic growth rate is expected to slow this year — the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development is forecasting that China’s annual gross domestic product growth rate will slip to 8.5 percent, the lowest pace in 11 years — analysts said this was an inevitable decline after years of blockbuster gains. Two weeks ago, China said fourth-quarter GDP fell to 8.9 percent from 9.1 per- cent in the third quarter. The extent to which that impacts luxury goods re- mains to be seen. Aaron Fischer, CLSA’s Hong Kong- based head of consumer research, recently told WWD that over the past 12 to 18 months, many top internation- al luxury brands have grown anywhere from between 40 and 80 percent; in some cases, sales have doubled. “We definitely can see that growth is going to slow down. There are valid concerns about the property market and the stock market, exports and things like that, but at the same time, other structural things are in place that will support demand, so I think the sales of luxury goods will slow down but aren’t going to go anywhere near negative or collapsing,” Fischer said. According to Isabel Cavill, a senior retail analyst with Planet Retail who specializes in the global cloth- ing and luxury retail markets, China’s retail market PHOTO BY NICKOLAS MURRAY, COURTESY OF CHRIS BENZ as a whole in 2012 and 2013 will grow at a rate of 14 SEE PAGE 7 2 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012 WWD.COM Made Fashion Week Launches Interactive App THE BRIEFING BOX With the new Made Fashion Week app — which By DAVID LIPKE is downloadable from the Apple app store, the IN TODAY’S WWD Android Market and Milkmade.com — each live MADE FASHION WEEK will unveil today a new slide show will be pushed to an attendee’s iPhone, There’s growing interest in a revival of U.S. apparel and textile digital platform to showcase its participating de- iPad or Android device. The app will automatically manufacturing that hasn’t been seen in a generation. PAGE 1 signers this season, including an app for mobile sync when an attendee is at a Made show, using a devices that will broadcast live images of runway live feed from a Made photographer at the show. shows and presentations as they unfold. If there are multiple, simultaneous presentations Despite fears of a slowdown in the growth of China’s The app contains a suite of features designed to in different rooms of Milk Studios, the appropriate luxury retail sales, there’s still plenty of optimism about provide show attendees with a way to slide show will sync as viewers move business prospects for 2012. PAGE 1 review favorite looks, take notes on from room to room. Milk worked with a individual looks, e-mail favorite looks third-party provider for the technology. and tweet about shows — as those The app allows show attendees to Longchamp is eyeing expansion, including in the U.S., looks are coming down the runway. “like” individual looks for later reference, now the brand’s second-largest market. PAGE 2 Made Fashion Week — which was type notes on specific looks, tweet about originally launched as MAC & Milk the show (with the #madefw hashtag au- and is now in its sixth season — will tomatically applied) and e-mail all their Halston is set to relaunch its Heritage line, as well comprise more than 50 shows, presen- “liked” looks to themselves or others. as its main collection. PAGE 6 ▼ tations and events from Wednesday Designer biographies, inspiration state- to Feb. 15. Staged at Milk Studios in ments and relevant contact info are also the Meatpacking District and the attached to each show. Completed shows The New York EDC and the Fashion Institute of nearby Standard hotel, Made shows are archived for future reference. Technology have set up a free “mini MBA” course for this season include Proenza Schouler, “We wanted to create an app that budding designers. PAGE 6 Alexander Wang, Peter Som, Sophie was tactical, that was user-friendly Theallet, Suno, Alejandro Ingelmo, and that helped with the overall work Christian Cota and Erin Fetherston. flow of attendees,” said Lombardo. The U.S. said it had reached agreement with the two The Made for Gillette Menswear Analytics gleaned from the app, such as major trading partners over a long-standing WTO dispute Program includes shows and presen- which looks are e-mailed and tweeted over how the U.S. calculates antidumping duties. PAGE 6 tations by Antonio Azzuolo, Band of the most, can be shared with designers. Outsiders, Carlos Campos, Number:Lab, For viewers who are not present Oumlil, Patrik Ervell, Public School, at the actual shows, the app can be The app allows users to Hermès to open a Paris unit for its Chinese brand Simon Spurr and Tim Hamilton. launched via the Livestream video tweet, e-mail and take Shang Xia. PAGE 7 “We always thought of ourselves as notes on looks in real time. broadcast of each show, which will sync bringing innovation and technology to the Made Fashion Week app. Desktop together,” said Mazdack Rassi, creative director and mobile users can view the live video feeds of of Milk Group and co-founder of the Made initia- shows on Livestream.com, Milkmade.com, Lxtv.com The Obama administration has made strides in helping boost U.S. apparel and textile exports, but companies still face tive, along with Jenné Lombardo, founder of the and New York magazine’s The Cut fashion site. PAGE 10 consulting firm The Terminal Presents, and Keith All Milkmade.com content will be aggregated on obstacles that restrict their ability to ship abroad. Baptista, a partner at production firm Prodject. “We the relaunched MySpace.com and Made will contin- were watching how editors and buyers would come ue its partnership with Tumblr this season, as well. to the shows and how they collected information. MAC Cosmetics remains the principle sponsor of Mexico’s textile and apparel production is expected to rise PAGE 10 They were taking the line sheets and scribbling Made Fashion Week. Additional sponsors include 2 percent to about $7.3 billion in 2012. notes on them and then would take a picture with American Express, AriZona Beverages, Belvedere their phone. It all looked very cumbersome.” Vodka, TheFancy.com, Lexus and True Religion Apparel. After weathering the recent economic downturn with less damage than expected, Europe’s textile industry still faces rough road ahead. PAGE 12 Leather versions of the Le Pliage bag. Other than Eli Manning and the Giants, the other big winners on Super Bowl Sunday turned out to be Anna Wintour and Condé Nast.
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