EDITOR KARL DO OVER HALSTON IS GETTING KARL LAGERFELD READY TO RELAUNCH ON HIS ONE-DAY GIG AS EDITOR YET AGAIN, WITH A OF THE GLOBAL NEW OWNER AND NEW NEWSPAPER DESIGN TEAM. PAGE 6 METRO. PAGE 13

MADE IN USA LL 201 FA 2 American Producers INSPIRATIONS See Signs of Rebirth NEW YORK By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN

MADE IN THE USA is hot again. Driven by rising wages in China and raw mate- WWD rial price inflation — not to mention a presidential election year — there is a rebound in interest in domestic manufacturing that hasn’t been seen in a TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 generation. It’s touching almost every industry, from cars to refrigerators to even apparel and textiles, where finding the lowest-cost producer has been a core part of the industry’s strategy for more than four decades. So far, the anecdotal evidence in textiles and apparel outweighs statistical corroboration, but a slow awakening of a domestic industry once left for dead is under way. Interest in expanding or estab- lishing more production in the U.S. has been grow- ing for the past year or two in the wake of the Great Recession, as companies and consumers changed their buying habits, seeking to buy closer to the sea- son and desiring higher quality. ’Tis the At the same time, brands and retailers are look- ing to lower their risks, and a desire for Made in America goods as symbols of patriotism and job creation has crept back into the public and corpo- Season rate mind-set. President Obama made proposals to spur job creation in his State of the Union address. On the other side of the political spectrum, GOP We’re talking about fall, of course, hopeful, former Pennsylvania Sen. Rick Santorum, has suggested ways to inspire U.S. firms to bring but Chris Benz has another jobs back from overseas while his rival, former season on his mind. “It’s time Massachusetts Gov. Mitt Romney, said he would for dressing up, holiday-party punish China for unfair commercial competition. Even Super Bowl ads got into the act on Sunday, style.…American sportswear with Clint Eastwood proclaiming in a TV ad for has such a casual richness Chrysler and Jeep that it was “halftime, America, and our second half ’s about to begin” and the that’s worth celebrating, country would come back even stronger. General and it feels so right, right Electric ran a commercial proclaiming that it was now!” Here, his fall bringing refrigerator manufacturing back to the U.S. via a plant in Kentucky. muse: a poised Judy SEE PAGE 8 Garland, circa 1945. For more designer inspirations, see China Luxe Rolls On pages 4 and 5. By CASEY HALL

SHANGHAI — Despite fears of a slowdown in the growth of China’s luxury retail sales, there’s still plen- ty of optimism about business prospects for 2012, the Year of the Dragon. Though China’s economic growth rate is expected to slow this year — the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development is forecasting that China’s annual gross domestic product growth rate will slip to 8.5 percent, the lowest pace in 11 years — analysts said this was an inevitable decline after years of blockbuster gains. Two weeks ago, China said fourth-quarter GDP fell to 8.9 percent from 9.1 per- cent in the third quarter. The extent to which that impacts luxury goods re- mains to be seen. Aaron Fischer, CLSA’s Hong Kong- based head of consumer research, recently told WWD that over the past 12 to 18 months, many top internation- al luxury brands have grown anywhere from between 40 and 80 percent; in some cases, sales have doubled. “We definitely can see that growth is going to slow down. There are valid concerns about the property market and the stock market, exports and things like that, but at the same time, other structural things are in place that will support demand, so I think the sales of luxury goods will slow down but aren’t going to go anywhere near negative or collapsing,” Fischer said. According to Isabel Cavill, a senior retail analyst with Planet Retail who specializes in the global cloth- ing and luxury retail markets, China’s retail market

PHOTO BY NICKOLAS MURRAY, COURTESY OF CHRIS BENZ as a whole in 2012 and 2013 will grow at a rate of 14 SEE PAGE 7 2 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012 WWD.COM Made Fashion Week Launches Interactive App THE BRIEFING BOX With the new Made Fashion Week app — which By DAVID LIPKE is downloadable from the Apple app store, the IN TODAY’S WWD Android Market and Milkmade.com — each live MADE FASHION WEEK will unveil today a new slide show will be pushed to an attendee’s iPhone, There’s growing interest in a revival of U.S. apparel and textile digital platform to showcase its participating de- iPad or Android device. The app will automatically manufacturing that hasn’t been seen in a generation. PAGE 1 signers this season, including an app for mobile sync when an attendee is at a Made show, using a devices that will broadcast live images of runway live feed from a Made photographer at the show. shows and presentations as they unfold. If there are multiple, simultaneous presentations Despite fears of a slowdown in the growth of China’s The app contains a suite of features designed to in different rooms of Milk Studios, the appropriate luxury retail sales, there’s still plenty of optimism about provide show attendees with a way to slide show will sync as viewers move business prospects for 2012. PAGE 1 review favorite looks, take notes on from room to room. Milk worked with a individual looks, e-mail favorite looks third-party provider for the technology. and tweet about shows — as those The app allows show attendees to Longchamp is eyeing expansion, including in the U.S., looks are coming down the runway. “like” individual looks for later reference, now the brand’s second-largest market. PAGE 2 Made Fashion Week — which was type notes on specific looks, tweet about originally launched as MAC & Milk the show (with the #madefw hashtag au- and is now in its sixth season — will tomatically applied) and e-mail all their Halston is set to relaunch its Heritage line, as well comprise more than 50 shows, presen- “liked” looks to themselves or others.

as its main collection. PAGE 6 ▼ tations and events from Wednesday Designer biographies, inspiration state- to Feb. 15. Staged at Milk Studios in ments and relevant contact info are also the Meatpacking District and the attached to each show. Completed shows The New York EDC and the Fashion Institute of nearby Standard hotel, Made shows are archived for future reference. Technology have set up a free “mini MBA” course for this season include Proenza Schouler, “We wanted to create an app that budding designers. PAGE 6 Alexander Wang, Peter Som, Sophie was tactical, that was user-friendly Theallet, Suno, Alejandro Ingelmo, and that helped with the overall work Christian Cota and Erin Fetherston. flow of attendees,” said Lombardo. The U.S. said it had reached agreement with the two The Made for Gillette Menswear Analytics gleaned from the app, such as major trading partners over a long-standing WTO dispute Program includes shows and presen- which looks are e-mailed and tweeted over how the U.S. calculates antidumping duties. PAGE 6 tations by Antonio Azzuolo, Band of the most, can be shared with designers. Outsiders, Carlos Campos, Number:Lab, For viewers who are not present Oumlil, Patrik Ervell, Public School, at the actual shows, the app can be The app allows users to Hermès to open a Paris unit for its Chinese brand Simon Spurr and Tim Hamilton. launched via the Livestream video tweet, e-mail and take Shang Xia. PAGE 7 “We always thought of ourselves as notes on looks in real time. broadcast of each show, which will sync bringing innovation and technology to the Made Fashion Week app. Desktop together,” said Mazdack Rassi, creative director and mobile users can view the live video feeds of of Milk Group and co-founder of the Made initia- shows on Livestream.com, Milkmade.com, Lxtv.com The Obama administration has made strides in helping boost U.S. apparel and textile exports, but companies still face tive, along with Jenné Lombardo, founder of the and New York magazine’s The Cut fashion site. PAGE 10 consulting firm The Terminal Presents, and Keith All Milkmade.com content will be aggregated on obstacles that restrict their ability to ship abroad. Baptista, a partner at production firm Prodject. “We the relaunched MySpace.com and Made will contin- were watching how editors and buyers would come ue its partnership with Tumblr this season, as well. to the shows and how they collected information. MAC Cosmetics remains the principle sponsor of Mexico’s textile and apparel production is expected to rise PAGE 10 They were taking the line sheets and scribbling Made Fashion Week. Additional sponsors include 2 percent to about $7.3 billion in 2012. notes on them and then would take a picture with American Express, AriZona Beverages, Belvedere their phone. It all looked very cumbersome.” Vodka, TheFancy.com, Lexus and True Religion Apparel. After weathering the recent economic downturn with less damage than expected, Europe’s textile industry still faces rough road ahead. PAGE 12 Leather versions of the Le Pliage bag. Other than Eli Manning and the Giants, the other big winners on Super Bowl Sunday turned out to be Anna Wintour and Condé Nast. PAGE 13

Karl Lagerfeld sketched himself wearing globe-shaped glasses for the cover of Metro International’s edition today. PAGE 15

Cameron ON WWD.COM Diaz

Running in Circles: Spotted! The in-crowd has recently been caught in all sorts of dots. For more celebrity fashion, IMAGES SEGRETAIN/GETTY LE PASCAL see WWD.com/eye. Longchamp Eyeing Expansion in U.S., China BY PHOTO Reporting 2011 revenue growth in line with top CORRECTION By MILES SOCHA luxury goods players, Longchamp said sales ad- vanced 22 percent last year to 390 million euros, or Randa Accessories Leather Goods LLC was represented in PARIS — An eighth-grade student from Alabama re- $543 million at average exchange rates. By region, its negotiations to acquire Swank Inc. by Peter J. Solomon Co. cently dispatched a letter to Jean Cassegrain, chief sales grew 14 percent in France, 30 percent in the and Swank by Financo Inc. The $10-a-share bid represented a executive officer of Longchamp, in praise of the rest of Europe and 23 percent in Asia. 111 percent premium over Swank’s closing bid price of $4.75 on family-owned company’s accessories. Only deficit-ravaged Greece logged negative Feb. 2. These details were incorrect in a story on page 2, Monday. Although the appreciation letter was a school growth. “To be able to reach growth of this magnitude, assignment, it’s emblematic of strong sentiment in it has to be good everywhere,” Cassegrain noted. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. the Americas, where sales of Longchamp products He cited strength across lines of luggage, hand- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. vaulted 26 percent last year, and where the compa- bags and accessories, with strong response to the COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ny plans to ramp up development. new Balzane line. VOLUME 203, NO. 25. TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, Disclosing key financial results and expansion In March, Longchamp will deliver leather ver- March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine plans to WWD, Cassegrain said Longchamp would sions of its signature Le Pliage bags in eight col- Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, add up to 25 directly operated boutiques and con- ors, expected to be a key revenue driver in 2012. Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at cessions this year, including 10 in China, and addi- Footwear is also deemed a growth category for New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses tional units in the U.S. Longchamp, with the fall-winter collection reach- to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S The latter includes Longchamp’s third location ing 50 stockkeeping units. WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, in Manhattan, at Rockefeller Center, and a bou- “Our plan is to make it more visible in our stores. call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent tique at the King of Prussia Mall near Philadelphia. As we remodel them, we will devote more space to label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless Longchamp will also start doing business with shoes and ready-to-wear,” Cassegrain explained. we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on Neiman Marcus and Holt Renfrew this year, in ad- Longchamp ended 2011 with 236 directly oper- all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all dition to its ongoing partnerships with Nordstrom, ated boutiques and shop-in-shops. editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue. Other key openings for this year include its first of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at “The U.S. has now become our second-biggest freestanding boutique in Italy: a 2,700-square-foot unit www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that market after France,” Cassegrain said in an inter- slated to open on Milan’s Via della Spiga in March; its we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at view at his bright offices here. “We’re still planning first location in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia; its second and P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED significant growth in the U.S.” third locations in Sao Paulo, Brazil; and a 4,300-square- ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER To wit: The company recently doubled the size of foot, three-level flagship in Hong Kong on Canton Road. UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR its warehouse facilities in New Jersey in anticipa- An official opening for the latter unit is planned DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A tion of bigger needs. for September, Cassegrain said. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Mar ch Reg 9 th is for a specialter b r y

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CEO Summit 2012

Leading in a New World May 14 -16, Palm Beach gies Stephane de Bour

Jean-Paul Agon Virginia C. Drosos Marigay McKee José Barra Chairman & Chief Group President, Global Chief Merchant Senior Vice President, Executive Offi cer Beauty, Skin, Cosmetics Harrods Ltd. Health & Beauty L’Oréal & Personal Care Target The Procter & Gamble Company Inc.

Sponsored By:

! 4 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012

“Corto Maltese.” — Joseph Altuzarra, Altuzarra L DESIGNER II) (PART

INSPIRATIONS “A refl ection With visions of autumn dancing in their heads, of an artist’s designers reveal the who, what and studio with whys behind their spanking-new collections. deep color and rich texture surrounding L all.” — Carolina Herrera

“The early 20th- century Chinese opera, The White “THE LIBRARY.” — DEREK LAM Haired Girl. This collection “Modernism revolves meets nature.” around the — Scott Sternberg, Band of Outsiders “El Topo.” L protagonist’s — Rachel Roy strength, passion and courage for love in the imperial China.” L — Bibhu Mohapatra

“Uncursed.” — Prabal

Gurung L

“Protection. Brutality. Survival. “The continued exploration of Nobility.” — Yohji the construction, heritage and Yamamoto, — Zac Posen L evolution of glamour.” Y-3 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012 5 WWD.COM The List Goes On... “Bianca Jagger encompasses the key elements that inspired me for fall.” — Rachel Zoe L

“The 1960s rogue girl who has a Japanese street sensibility “SUFFOCATION.” this season.” — Gwen Stefani, L.A.M.B. — ALEXANDER WANG “Anatomy of fashion.” — Behnaz Sarafpour

— Victoria Beckham “It’s who we are now and who we have always been, two California eccentrics…making clothes we love and are dying to wear.” — Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor, Skaist-Taylor — Phillip Lim, 3.1 Phillip Lim L “It all started with a really cool orange velvet chair.” — Tracy Reese

“‘Every possible future will be the result of the O J

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“Thinkin’ me + Twiggy.” Y B “...X marks the spot...” — Thom Browne

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N R “The magic of mathematics.” — Yeohlee Teng, Yeohlee O C

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G “A study in restraint, seduction and control.” A M I — Max and Lubov Azria, Hervé Léger by Max Azria X E R

Y B “Dark glamour.” — Jill Stuart E O Z

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R “Sci-fi warrior heroines.” — Monique Lhuillier O L

E L L E “Santiago Calatrava, linear labyrinths and cable- H C I

“DVF 2012 M stayed bridges.” — Lela Rose

Y B Rendez M

A “Ice skating.” — Sandro Mandrino, Moncler Grenoble H

Vous... K C E B

Homage to ; “The cinematic term, ‘the magic hour,’ an N I B

seduction R enchanted time when the sky slowly transitions R

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language...” N

“Country A S

— Diane von Y “A play on extreme proportions...” B meets G

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N “Glamour in Gstaad.” — Zang Toi O O K A H T

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M “Traces of identity, what’s left behind.”

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“Romantic cliché” Z A K

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FOR MORE INSPIRATIONS, I S SEE WWD WEDNESDAY AND AT T U O

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R — Brian Wolk & Claude Morais, Ruffi an A

“WO-MAN II.” Z U T L L — DONNA KARAN A “Regatta on the Nile.” — Sharon Wauchob, Edun 6 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012

Marie Mazelis funding. Then my objective was to as- lowing of any brand means they did a lot semble a team of innovators from around of things right, and that’s something we the world. I think the past is wonderful are aspiring to do.” to learn from, but whatever we are doing Then there’s the celebrity factor. now should be with the future in mind. “Halston was one of the pioneers of I think if Halston were here today, he marrying fashion and celebrity. I value would be very pleased.” that enormously. Celebrities are incred- He chose L.A. as headquarters because ible ambassadors and we will be making “the Heritage line, which we are starting some thoughtful choices after market,” with, is contemporary and obviously this said Malka, declining to reveal details. is the place for that. It’s also a global city While Heritage is already distributed in and a brand like this belongs here. I think Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks it will be a boon to the Los Angeles fash- Fifth Avenue, Intermix and Scoop, as well

KEENAN STEFANIE ion community.” Malka as 300 retailers in Europe, added that the runway Malka is hoping to increase Ben line will be based in a its reach with Mazelis’ re- Malka New York atelier that’s vamped collection. still being constructed. Flipping through line EXCLUSIVE “I want to create a sheets from summer to strong differentiation be- fall, it’s clear there’s a

MAZELIS, MALKA PHOTOS BY tween the two,” he said, greater sense of design noting that the brand’s and sophistication in the range was made possible collection. Key pieces Halston Gears Up Relaunch by the “hundreds of DNA include a draped boiled codes” in the late de- wool mock turtleneck shift signer’s legacy. “Halston dress paired with a long Strong liquidity was also a [runway] is about in- blazer, an updated version By MARCY MEDINA must. Malka became the larg- novation in technique of the ultrasuede shirt- est of three shareholders in the and fabric. It’s about dress and another Halston LOS ANGELES — Security is tight at the company; Hillco and a silent exclusivity and luxury. signature, the double- gated Los Angeles Center Studios, where investor serve as passive Heritage is about faced cashmere coat. television shows like “Mad Men” and partners while he makes making the brand “I wasn’t looking to “Revenge” are currently filming. That’s all operational decisions. more accessible using timeless reinterpret our archives,” said Mazelis. just fine with Ben Malka, Halston’s very “We are very well-funded, codes like fluidity and tailoring. “I thought about the woman who wore private chairman and chief executive offi- so I don’t have to worry “I think getting it from con- Halston then, and what she would be like cer, who took the reins of the beleaguered about that. The money cept to floor is the most difficult today. Women’s lives are so busy now that company last July and moved the entire was put in by myself and thing to do. But that’s the key to I wanted it to be about ease, sensuality operation to this unlikely L.A. location. my partners in a big shaping the future,” he added. and confidence.” Malka has spent the last seven months way,” he said. While Malka’s priority for building During fall market, the company will assembling a team of executives and de- he demurred on the brand awareness is a strong also present handbags, small leather signers, including chief creative officer amount of his stake, he brick-and-mortar presence. goods and belts. Footwear is set to bow Marie Mazelis, who followed him from quipped, “The amount “I would say beautiful posi- for spring 2013, followed by jewelry and BCBG Max Azria Group, where he served is enough for us to screw tioning with trained associates is eyewear. Malka’s wife, Anita Jansens- as president for over a decade. Their aim up for a long time.” the number-one way to reach our Malka, who oversaw handbags at BCBG, is to steer the brand into the future, be- But there’s no joking consumer and reimmerse them now serves as senior vice president of ginning with an overhaul of the contem- when it comes to how in the brand,” he said. For now, handbags and accessories as well as ex- porary Halston Heritage line, which will he’s running the 70-per- he’s referring to shop-in-shops ecutive vice president. be presented to buyers in the company’s son company. A glance in stores like Bloomingdale’s Most of the Heritage collection is 8,000-square-foot showroom in New York’s at his four-year plan and Harrods, but he said the priced from $50 to $500 wholesale, but SoHo on Wednesday. The Halston runway shows worldwide company could open five free- there will be a handful of red-carpet collection is set to debut for fall 2013. wholesale distribu- standing retail stores in the U.S. and leather pieces priced up to $2,500. Walking through the spotless, tion targets calculated to this year. The design will include Handbags range from $175 to $500. Malka 25,000-square-foot space that houses ex- the last dollar, a timeline for a version of the floating staircase in said he has not priced out the Halston ecutive offices, print and patternmakers, brand extensions, and ren- the late designer’s iconic townhouse runway collection yet, but he expects the design team and customer service, derings of retail stores. From to ballet barres for clothing rods, prices to be in the designer-luxury range, Malka said he promised his wife he’d re- the company’s “peace and a nod to Halston’s dance-inspired with some pieces up to $10,000. tire at 50, but less than a week after leav- love” training program to an looks. Cash wraps will contain mini While he declined to give first-year ing BCBG, he got an offer from Halston employee manual specifying museums with iconic photos of mo- sales projections for Heritage, Malka backer Hillco Consumer Capital LLC that the font of e-mail signatures, no ments in Halston’s history. said, “We have the name, the money, the he couldn’t refuse. “There were maybe detail has been overlooked. The second objective is team and the product. It’s an enormous two or three brands that could pull me “A lot of people ask, ‘What are A look utilizing social media. “I’m opportunity. Halston is Halston. Anything out of retirement, and this was one,” he you going to do differently from from a big fan of what Burberry that goes wrong can be fixed. For me this said. “But it had to be all about the way I all these other people?’ I reverse Halson did. Just the fact they have is about doing something we can all be run it. No outside interference.” engineered it. We started with Heritage. the largest Facebook fol- proud of.” U.S. Settles Two WTO Disputes EDC, FIT Offer Insider Advice WASHINGTON — Averting potential disputes behind us,” said U.S. Trade NEW YORK — Many budding designers won- an RFP last issued in May 2011. NYCEDC trade retaliation from Japan and the Representative Ron Kirk. “What der if they have what it takes to make it in is investing $60,000 in the program. G-III European Union, the U.S. said Monday this means for the American people the fashion industry and now there is a city- Apparel Group’s president Jeanette Nostra it had reached agreement with the two and the country as a whole is that funded crash course to put them to the test. will act as FIT’s industry liaison, and will major trading partners, bringing an American farmers and businesses can The New York City Economic serve as a mentor to the students, reviewing end to a long-standing dispute at the invest in job-creating export markets Development Corporation and the Fashion curriculum, bringing in guest speakers and World Trade Organization over how the without the uncertainty of possible Institute of Technology are launching hosting program events. U.S. calculates antidumping duties. trade retaliation. And the resolution of Design Entrepreneurs NYC, a free, inten- NYCEDC officials often note how New The WTO had ruled in two separate these long-standing disputes promotes sive, “mini-MBA” program to teach design- York City’s fashion industry employs decisions over the past nine years that our ability to focus on the administra- ers the necessary skills to run a fashion 165,000 people, accounts for 5.5 percent of the U.S. ran afoul of global trade rules tion’s priority of enforcing U.S. rights label. The initiative is one of six set forth the city’s workforce and generates nearly in its use of “zeroing,” which is used to under our trade agreements to en- by Mayor Michael Bloomberg’s Fashion $2 billion in tax revenue annually. In addi- describe the methodology in calculat- sure a level playing field for American NYC 2020 plan, which is designed to bolster tion, more than 500,000 visitors come to the ing duties it imposes on goods that are farmers, workers and businesses.” the $55 billion fashion industry. city each year to check out fashion-related found to be dumped into the U.S. mar- EU Trade Commissioner Karel De Up to 35 individuals will be accepted trade shows, showrooms and stores. The ket below fair market value. The U.S. Gucht said the resolution of the dis- to the new program and each must have a Fashion NYC 2020 initiatives are meant said it will end the practice to come into pute “will bring immediate relief to New York City-based business that has been to further the city’s position as a hub of compliance with two separate WTO rul- EU exporters who will no longer have open for at least a year. Interested design- innovation for emerging designers and re- ings, one in April 2006 in the EU dispute to pay excessive antidumping duties; ers have until March 31 to submit applica- tail, and to attract the next generation of and the other in January 2007 in the some of them will not pay any anti- tions. Once accepted, Design Entrepreneurs design, management and merchant talent. Japanese dispute that found the U.S. dumping duties at all.” NYC participants will have free access to a The industry chairs for Fashion NYC 2020 was inconsistent with WTO rules. The EU and Japan had requested au- number of FIT programs, including work- are Richard Darling, chief executive officer Countries calculate antidumping thorization to impose hundreds of mil- shops, personal tours of The Museum at of LF USA; Diane von Furstenberg; Terry duties based on price comparisons on lions of dollars in retaliatory duties on FIT, and lectures by iconic fashion figures. Lundgren, chairman, president and ceo of goods. The EU and Japan charged that U.S. exports, which in separate, unre- Following the June 1 orientation, par- Macy’s Inc.; Andrew Rosen, ceo of Theory, the U.S. inflated the price of antidumping lated WTO cases in the past have been ticipants will attend classes for three con- and Kevin Ryan, ceo of Gilt Groupe. duties on their imported products in the applied to apparel and textile exports. secutive weekends. From June through In other FIT-related news, the winner of way it calculated prices on goods in their But the parties had agreed to suspend September, participants will fine-tune their the first Gilt.com/CFDA All-Star Scholarship own markets, and the WTO concurred. the arbitrations to allow time for discus- business plans with input from instructors, is Kieran Dallison, a FIT senior. Both “I am proud to announce today sions. Under Monday’s deal, the arbitra- before presenting their strategies to a panel groups will help her develop a women’s col- that we have finally put these burden- tion for sanctions will be terminated, a of industry leaders. FIT was selected to lection that will be sold exclusively on Gilt. some and potentially damaging trade USTR official said. — KRISTI ELLIS manage and execute the program through com in June. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012 7 WWD.COM

China Luxe Growth Uncertainty Surrounds Milano Unica MILAN — Even after surviving fierce head-

winds brought on by record-high raw materi- Seen Staying Strong al costs last year and a slowdown in consum- er spending throughout Southern Europe and Japan, textile makers may not be out of {Continued from page one} its tax policy in order to boost the the woods yet. percent, and luxury retail will con- expenditure of Chinese citizens,” Euro-dollar exchange rate volatility is tinue to grow at an even higher rate Mok said. “There·· are many catego- making for an uncertain outlook for Italian of 20 percent over the same period. ries of VAT and an adjustment may fabric producers, who will unveil their “You’ve got to take into account happen in 2012, but I don’t think it’s spring 2013 collections at the Milano Unica with luxury in China that because very likely to have a huge benefit to textiles and accessories fair that begins its it’s still quite an aspirational mar- the luxury goods sector.” three-day run on Tuesday. ket, luxury brands still tend to be One seemingly unlikely source “The euro-usd exchange rate is helping seen as a status symbol,” she said. of benefit to the luxury retail mar- our exports but obviously penalizing us on Fabric from Alcantara. In October, Bain & Co. estimated ket in China has been the soften- imports,” said Silvio Albini, president of that luxury consumption by Chinese ing property market and changes to Milano Unica, who addressed journalists at Revenue generated from key markets like people, factoring in spending both property ownership laws, restrict- a press conference in Milan. “It especially Italy fell 2.3 percent, while Spain revenues in Mainland China and spending by affects raw material prices, even though plummeted 27.2 percent. Chinese tourists abroad, accounts for costs have stabilized at a higher level, fol- Given the unstable macroeconomic cli- just over 20 percent of the global luxu- You’ve got to take lowing substantial increases at the end of mate throughout Europe, many companies ry goods market, which was on track to 2010 and the beginning of 2011.” that will take part in Milano Unica will like- total 191 billion euros, or $241.7 billion As of Friday, the euro was trading at $1.30 ly aim to keep their prices as low as possible at current exchange rates, for 2011. into account with compared with $1.38 at the same time a year ago. this year to please clients. Irene Yu , a business analyst at Some 440 exhibitors, in line with last “A lot of businesses will do whatever it takes China Market Research, said she luxury in China year’s February edition, will show upscale to make the customer happy,” Albini said. doesn’t see demand for luxury and traditional materials for men’s and High-end silk manufacturers like Como- goods leaving China so much as mi- that because it’s still women’s wear, as well as more trendy goods. based Serikos said China, South Korea, grating inland, away from the tradi- “This year will be a complex year, but Japan and the U.S. have all registered a sig- tional centers of spending power. quite an aspirational there is no shortage of opportunities, espe- nificant rise in revenues compared with a “We see the fastest growth in cially for those firms that keep faithful to year earlier. luxury spending shifting away market, luxury their mission and continuously innovate,” “Our prices are unchanged (from last from first-tier cities like Shanghai said Guglielmo Miani, chief executive offi- year). By now, costs of yarns, coloring, after to second-tier and third-tier cities, cer of Milan-based high-end cotton special- high increases last year, have stabilized,” like Chengdu, where incomes are brands still tend ist Larusmiani. “We closed 2011 with double- said Beppe Pisani, president of Serikos. rising and there is massive pent-up digit growth versus 2010 and we envisage Larusmiani said due to the decrease in demand,” Yu said. to be seen as a ulterior growth this year.” raw material prices of cotton, its spring 2013 A significant percentage of China’s According to data provided by Italian order book prices will be lower compared luxury retail dollars are spent off- status symbol. fashion and trade lobby Sistema Moda with a year earlier. shore, with wealthy visitors to Hong Italia, sales from the Italian textile sector Milano Unica is expected to present de- Kong, Europe and America shopping — ISABEL CAVILL, increased 10.2 percent to 8.4 billion euros signs divided among the themes “active,” up a storm to escape the Mainland’s PLANET RETAIL or $11.5 billion in value, driven by a 12.3 “languid,” “sharp” and “melded,” forecasted prohibitive value-added tax on im- percent increase in revenue generated in as key concepts for next spring, while domi- ported goods. A lowering of the VAT ing the practice of “flipping” invest- European Union countries. Total revenue nant color schemes and luxurious linen and could be a game changer to the lux- ment properties. of exports rose 7.3 percent, driven in part by cotton blends are expected to dominate the ury retail scene in China, and some “The housing policy restricting sales from China, which surged 27.2 percent. trade ground floors. believe that may come as early as this housing purchases means it makes Milan-based Alcantara, year. China’s VAT on luxury products sense for people to spend their money known for its patented versa- can range from the standard 17.5 per- on other products for investment pur- tile material for upholstering cent to more than 50 percent. poses,” said Maureen Fung, general cars and yachts, as well as fur- Byron Kan, general manager of manager in the leasing department niture and fashion garments Shanghai Centre, a lifestyle and re- at Sun Hung Kai Properties,·· which and accessories, said its collec- tail hub in the city’s central Jing’An owns the Shanghai IFC luxury mall. tion will make an impact with District, with tenants including Tom “For example, watches have been ap- its fluorescent color palette, to Ford, Miu Miu, Salvatore Ferragamo preciating in price over the past few include yellow, green, orange and Christian Louboutin, is expect- years, so people are looking at this as and purple. Innovations to the ing an announcement from the a good investment. This may bring a collection will include fabrics Chinese government amending the good shift of money to the luxury mar- that are infused with pleats, VAT “very soon.” ket that would previously have been embossed, printed and lami- “Right now, there are two fac- spent on property.” nated finishes. tions inside the government who Both Tomas Meier, creative director Marzotto said its high-end are arguing about this — there is of Bottega Veneta, and Vittorio Missoni, spring 2013 line is inspired the tax bureau that wants to keep chairman of his family’s company, said by natural, handmade wicker, this import tax high, supposedly to they haven’t seen evidence of Chinese braided hay and beehives. support the local fashion industry, luxury customers pulling back. Marzotto’s collection will also then there is the commercial bu- “There is a slowdown in China’s feature textiles made with nat- reau, who are saying that it doesn’t economy, but not in luxury for us, ural fibers, primarily fine linen, matter, because if you keep this tax as there is a pickup in understated Items from Magazzino-Tessuti. wool crepe and silk organza. high, people aren’t going to decide luxury products. It was much more — SOFIA CELESTE bling at first, but now it’s changed: There is a lot of demand from a so- phisticated customer who is looking for a very strong cultural heritage, 20% quality and tradition, and all more Hermès’ Shang Xia to Open in Paris understated,” Meier said. BAIN & CO. ESTIMATE OF THE Similarly, Giorgio Armani said he plans to continue investing in China tations. If you are asking, is Shang Xia mak- CHINESE SPENDING SHARE OF by opening a significant number of By JOELLE DIDERICH ing a loss? The answer is yes, and it will be THE GLOBAL LUXURY MARKET. stores in the future. for a while,” he said at the time. Patek Philippe chairman Thierry PARIS — Hermès International-backed In other Hermès news, to mark its 175th Stern voiced a more cautious stance Chinese luxury brand Shang Xia will open its anniversary year, the company plans to open not to buy international brands, on the country. He described the watch first overseas store in Paris at the end of 2012, “Leather Forever,” an exhibition in London they’ll just choose to buy them in firm’s Chinese clientele as “massive,” a spokeswoman for Hermès said Monday. that will run from May 8 to 27. Hong Kong,” he said. but at the same time stressed that it The 860-square-foot store will open on Rue The show will be open to the public Philip Mok, an analyst at Phillip is important for luxury brands not to de Sèvres, a few doors from the Hermès flag- and take place at 6 Burlington Gardens in Securities in Hong Kong, agrees that focus too much on China. ship on the Left Bank, in a space previously Mayfair. The brand said the show would cel- the Chinese government will make “What if China closes [its bor- occupied by accessories brand Furla, she said. ebrate Hermès’ rapport with leather, the first a move to increase consumption in ders]? Yo u should be careful. If Shang Xia launched in 2010 with a store in material with which it worked. 2012, in part to shield the country’s China does that, there will be a lot of Shanghai, and will open a second Chinese unit To celebrate the show, Hermès has creat- economy from the effects of the brands that will be in big difficulties. in Beijing in the second half of this year. It pro- ed four bags with U.K. themes, with all sales euro zone debt crisis and a continu- For Patek, I am not willing to take duces a full range of lifestyle products, including proceeds going to charity, the company said. ing slump in the U.S. economy, both this risk. China is a good market, but clothing, accessories, furniture and porcelain. The exhibition will showcase past commis- of which have led to a decrease in it’s not the only one. And we should Speaking at an event in September mark- sions, including those by the Duke of Windsor China’s manufacturing output. He is not count only on them. We should ing the brand’s first anniversary, Hermès for his wife the Duchess of Windsor and some not confident, however, that a change respect them, but we should not only chief executive officer Patrick Thomas de- of the brand’s latest products. Craftspeople in the taxation system will be a boon send everything to China,” he said. clined to provide first-year sales figures, from the Hermès workshops in Paris will to international luxury brands. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM stressing that the French group is looking at demonstrate leather working in situ. “There are always rumors that LUISA ZARGANI, MILAN, Shang Xia as a long-term project. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM the Chinese government will amend AND RITU UPADHYAY, DUBAI “The numbers are well beyond our expec- SAMANTHA CONTI, LONDON 8 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012 textiles WWD.COM Made in USA on Recovery Road

{Continued from page one} see how we can make it here cheaper. polyester blend to a top-line MicroModal A White House report released last David And I said, ‘If that’s your only objective, and Supima cotton blend, said transpor- month, “Investing in America: Building Sasso we don’t need to have this conversation.’” tation costs are also kept low when man- an Economy That Lasts,” in which ana- He said Fessler’s advantage is “the ufacturing locally, while quality control lysts examined the viability of the U.S. as value of innovation, getting an idea on and shipping time are enhanced. a location for manufacturing, said, “The GEORGE CHINSEE the shelf when the consumer wants it… “For me to develop a prototype in U.S. will become an increasingly attrac- the value of being able to replenish China, it would take about three months

tive option, especially for products con- PHOTO BY goods…the value of being able to sell at compared to about three weeks here,” sumed in North America,” as the “total full price because your goods are on the he added. cost of doing business, after taking into shelf at the right time and you don’t have Kelly Wilson, sales representative for account the productivity of U.S. workers, to mark it down.” converter Laguna Fabrics, said the com- as well as transportation, supply chain Meck said he’s had several serious in- pany knits and dyes everything in Los risks and other costs, are now making quiries in the last two months from larg- Angeles, and the benefits of being local, production in a range of industries as er retail chains to see if they gave Fessler from strong customer service to custom economical in the U.S. as in other parts a certain amount of business, how many design and quick response, can outweigh of the world, including China.” jobs would it create. He felt this was in- any negatives. As for textiles and apparel, while sta- dicative not just of a interest in doing “There always is the cost advantage tistics neither lie nor tell a whole story, more U.S. manufacturing, but of helping of doing business overseas, but time is they do offer concrete perspective. An the economy. money for a lot of people and the value August report from the U.S. International Mikel Schwarz, ceo of RibbedTee, an that you get for buying domestically is Trade Commission showed that the coun- online men’s undershirt and tank top line great,’ Wilson said. “We have customers try is the world’s largest importer of tex- founded in May 2008, said his entire sup- that make 80 percent overseas and 20 tiles and apparel, accounting for about ply chain is in Los Angeles. percent domestic and others that make 25 percent of global imports by value “When I first started the business, I 100 percent domestically.” in 2010, the most recent data available. did explore manufacturing overseas,” Laguna stocks yarns and gray goods The U.S. recession between 2007 and Schwarz said. “I started looking at doing and has been known to turn an order 2009 exacerbated the contraction in the this in China. Then I went through three around in as little as 10 days. One custom- U.S. textile and apparel sector that has er recently was making been under way since the late Eighties, supply chain balances higher labor costs goods for Costco, and the report said. Output of textiles and and overhead expenses for certain bet- Laguna was able to pro- apparel fell 35.3 percent from 2007 to ter brands enough to make U.S. manu- duce about 30,000 yards 2009 to $62.7 billion before rebounding facturing a viable option again, even if it in a few weeks. modestly by 5.9 percent to $66.4 billion never will return to its heyday of a gen- “It was a miracle and in 2010. Output of apparel fell 47.9 per- eration earlier. it was great,” Wilson said. cent, with a 1.3 percent recovery in 2010. Brian Meck, vice president of sales Laguna’s Enviro Employment in the textiles and apparel and marketing at knit apparel manufac- Fabrics division, which sector also declined dramatically, falling turer Fessler USA, based in Orwigsburg, makes goods from cer- 27 percent between 2007 and 2010 for a Pa., said, “It comes down to speed of pro- tified organic cotton loss of 146,500 jobs. duction, speed-to-market. From the time and recycled polyes- The number of U.S. textile and ap- we can take a creative concept and put ter, hemp, corn-based parel plants has declined, with a cor- product on the shelf is three months. Sorona fibers and cel- responding decrease in the number of When you compare that to doing business lulosic flax and linen textile and apparel workers, said the ITC internationally, it gives us a very strong blends, draws custom- report. In 2009, there were 11,273 tex- competitive advantage. Then the abil- ers that also have an tile mills, down from 11,958 in 2007, and ity to react to what’s selling on the sales environmental cause. 8,339 apparel factories, down from 9,492 floor. We can work with our customers to “Anyone that buys in 2007. In the industry’s heyday, employ- continuously present new colors and new our eco garments are ment in apparel manufacturing declined styles. We can replenish that quickly and very focused on Made in by 61.5 percent between 1990 and 2002, have a large amount of product on the America,” Wilson added. from 929,100 workers to 357,600, accord- store shelves within four to six weeks, David Sasso, vice ing to the U.S. Commerce Department. and that’s not something that can be president of internation- Textile mills saw employment drop by done if you’re not doing business here al sales and marketing 40.4 percent between 1990 and 2002, because of the lead times. The time for Buhler Quality Yarns from 491,800 to 293,200. Despite it takes just in shipping alone Corp., said the Jefferson, this sharp contraction, industry from overseas would prohibit it.” Ga.-based spinner sells representatives project that the Meck, whose company in the U.S. and to coun- rate of decline in the U.S. tex- works with startup brands and tries of the Central tile and apparel industry will about 75 small to medium-size American Free Trade slow through 2015 compared brands, said many times some Agreement and North with the period from 2005 to of its larger accounts will intro- American Free Trade 2010. On Friday, the U.S. duce styles with Fessler, import Agreement, with $30 mil- Labor Department’s large quantities, and then lion in sales last year. employment report fill in at the end of the Sasso said manufac- showed some stabil- season with his firm. turing in the U.S. offers ity on sector jobs. It “The driver of our the customer “a sense reported that mills business is our design of transparency, that making apparel fab- support business,” he they know where the ric and yarns boost- said. “We have a staff fiber comes from.” ed payrolls by 700 of agreement enablers “The whole line is to employ 120,300, — patternmakers, cut- Fessler’s knitting plant in Orwigsburg, Pa. exposed when you man- up from 119,400 a ters, sample makers. ufacture in the U.S.,” he year earlier, while We make 500 samples parallel manufacturing processes to see said. “It’s an advantage to be in the same apparel manufac- a month and put 500 what the different paths were — one time zone and to speak the same lan- turers added 100 styles in production in China and two in Los Angles. What I guage. Relationships matter. jobs in the month a year. We have a found was it didn’t make practical sense “For spinners to survive in the U.S., to employ 149,800, patternmaking and to manufacture in China.” there has to be a certain size to ben- down from 154,800 sample-making busi- He said there are so many advantages efit from the economies of scale,” Sasso in January 2011. ness as well, for which to manufacturing, that if the one draw- added. “Obviously, it’s more expensive This is where the we don’t get any of that back is cost, then it’s possible to make to produce in the U.S. We have a differ- statistics start to jive production.” goods in the U.S. ent pay system, a different trade system, with the talk of ex- As for cost, Meck said, “If you’re not trying to compete on reward system, than many of these other ecutives in the indus- “It’s almost never less ex- price, then cost can be a secondary countries. I don’t see why a country like try that the desire for pensive to make a garment issue,” Schwarz added. “ Yo u still have to Vietnam needs a competitive advantage. faster-turn production with us then it is to make it address it in your marketing and promo- What goes on in Washington effects U.S. and more control of the overseas. We’ve had meet- tion to instill the value of your product to manufacturers. No U.S. spinner is in- ings that don’t last more than get that slightly higher price.” vesting or expanding because one sign one minute when we sat down Schwarz, whose line sells for $9.50 to of a pen makes that investment obsolete. A RibbedTee top, and the buyer said we make $29.50, based on materials that run from We’ve got to get our politics right before made in Los Angeles. this in China and we want to U.S.-grown combed cotton to a cotton and we can move forward.” Lenzing AG, A-4860 Lenzing, Austria

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www.lenzing.com/modal 10 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012 WWD.COM textiles U.S. Exports Climb on Sourcing Shift fice, in collaboration with key industry By Kristi Ellis trade groups, fall under the broader National Export initiative launched by WAsHiNGtON — the Obama admin- President Obama in 2009 to double ex- istration has made strides in helping ports in five years, which would mean companies boost U.s. apparel and textile total U.s. exports would need to grow to exports, which have posted double-digit $3.14 trillion by 2015 from $1.57 trillion growth in the past 12 months, but firms in 2009. textile and apparel exports are still face obstacles that restrict their abil- on track to meet the goal of doubling by ity to ship abroad. 2015,” Glas said, increasing 35 percent With a shift in apparel production over the past two years. back to the Western Hemisphere from OtEXA, within Commerce, has lined China, U.s. textile and apparel produc- up a roster of six trade shows this year in ers have seen their export business in which it will help promote U.s. products, the region grow. including shows in Atlanta, las Vegas, U.s. apparel and textile exports to the Chile, Dubai, Paris and Cape town. world grew 14.4 percent to $22.2 billion trade officials also plan to take part in the year ended Nov. 30 compared with again in a sourcing in Americas pavilion the same period a year earlier, according at the sourcing at MAGiC show in las to the Commerce Department’s Office of Vegas in August, hoping to build off the textiles & Apparel. Of the $22.2 billion in successful inaugural pavilion and sum- exports, textile exports grew 14.5 percent mit last year that featured 74 U.s. and to $17.2 billion, while apparel exports latin American companies. Francisco Sanchez and grew 14.3 percent to $5 billion. Don King, executive vice president Parkdale Mills plant “Essentially 64 percent of our yarns of sales for schott NYC Corp., a classic manager Keith Nicholson. and fabric exports go to [North American American-made outerwear company

Obtaining export financing is another one will provide financing to them.” obstacle for the textile and apparel in- Johnson said the organization has had U.S. ExportS’ Growth dustry. Glas said Commerce and Ustr discussions with Ex-im Bank officials, convened a meeting several weeks ago but have been unsuccessful in convincing U.s. apparel and textile exports overall and between the Overseas Private investment them that the region is not risky, despite to the largest markets, based on dollar volume. Corp. and a coalition of apparel and tex- long-standing relationships between tex- tile trade groups to look at the possibility tile mills and Central American producers. of loan guarantees for the industry. “[We] do know it is a significant issue Year ending nov. 2011 Year-ending nov. 2010 % change “it was really an opportunity for the for the industry,” said Glas. “We have World $22.2 billion $19.4 billion 14.4 industry to hear firsthand what programs been talking about it for a number of OPiC offers,” Glas said. “the industry years now, whether financing options Canada $4.9 billion $4.4 billion 11.3 [had a chance] to talk to one another to exist at the Export-import Bank.” MexiCo $4.8 billion $4.2 billion 14.7 see if they can develop a project that will some rebirth is being seen in the make the parameters that OPiC looks for.” once-dominant southern textile indus- Honduras $1.8 billion $1.4 billion 30.8 Kevin Burke, president and chief ex- tr y, aided by exports to such places as CHina $1.3 billion $1.1 billion 15.6 ecutive officer of the American Apparel Central America. & Footwear Association, said, “i talked Francisco sanchez, undersecretary doMiniCan republiC $830 Million $658 Million 26.2 to a number of companies last week who of international trade at the Commerce sourCe: CoMMerCe departMent’s offiCe of textiles & apparel said places like El salvador are near or Department, went on a three-day trip at above capacity in terms of producing the end of January to promote exports for export. Companies are looking at the and textile manufacturing in North Free trade Agreement] and [Central based in Elizabeth, N.J., said the compa- global supply chain and shortening it.” Carolina, where he toured businesses, American Free trade Agreement coun- ny has participated in conjunction with He said the government has been including Parkdale Mills’ yarn spinning tries] for further processing,” said Kim Commerce in the international Fashion supportive of the industry but challeng- facilities, as well as the North Carolina Glas, deputy assistant secretary for textiles Fair in Japan. es remain, particularly in the area of ex- state University College of textiles’ new and apparel at the Commerce Department “We have written a lot of business,” port financing. Nonwovens institute Partners lab. “i think it is a reflection of more brands King said. “We started working in the “if they want companies to export and “Producing American-made products and retailers sourcing more apparel in Japanese marketplace in 1976 and we be good at it, they have to come up with and selling them in markets around the the Western Hemisphere. As result of that, used to do that trade show once a year the financing to do so,” Burke said. “Often world helps businesses succeed, puts U.s. exports of yarns and fabrics have in conjunction with the Commerce times, the Export-import Bank has sys- people to work and helps expand the grown significantly over the last year.” Department. that has really helped us tematically failed to support this value circle of opportunity,” sanchez said at a While Central America, Mexico and maintain a Made in the UsA signature chain with the liquidity necessary to move North Carolina leadership forum. “U.s. Canada are the largest markets for U.s. and to make the marketplace [in Japan] this relationship to the next level.” producers have retooled their efforts to apparel and textile exports, China is aware of a company such as schott that Cass Johnson, president of the National focus on higher-value, niche products, also growing, as evidenced by a 15 per- still maintains a position in manufactur- Council of textile Organizations, said, to invest more in research and develop- cent increase in U.s. exports during the ing here in the U.s.” “it’s still a chronic problem in that there ment, and to modernize their facilities past 12 months. King said budget cutbacks have dimin- are opportunities throughout the Western and technology. this commitment to ad- “the U.s. government plays a big role ished some of the government support, Hemisphere to do what are called full- vanced manufacturing and to producing in export promotion. Efforts by Commerce which he called “an unfortunate sign of package product financing that companies the best quality products is crucial in to- and the U.s. trade representative’s of- the times.“ cannot do in the CAFtA region because no day’s dynamic global economy.” Mexico Aims to Boost Production for American and Domestic Brands MEXiCO CitY — Mexico’s textile and de la industria texil, said U.s. brands strauss & Co., Van Heusen, Warnaco turing chain has been significantly mod- apparel production is expected to rise are waiting for the global market to im- Group and Victoria’s secret. some have ernized in the past five years. He said 2 percent to just more than 100 billion prove before increasing production or their own factories, but others outsource production processes are “much more pesos, or $7.3 billion, in 2012, as U.s. ap- investing in Mexico. with firms such as Grupo Kaltex, Modelos agile, quick and of higher quality,” while parel brands shift some production south “We also have a major competitor de Asyro and Dasa. Andreu said all these the past two years have seen producers of the border and local demand remains in Central America which has cheaper companies have workers trained in full- investing in new machinery to boost their strong in a stable economy. wages than us,” salazar said. package production and the manufacture commitment to quality. “We are expecting U.s. producers to Andreu was hopeful that U.s. labels of high quality apparel. Exporting more apparel to the U.s. increase their full-package and fast-fash- will continue to see Mexico as a more at- some firms are also concentrating on and other parts of the world has become ion clothing orders,” said Miguel Angel tractive and stable destination than Asia becoming larger suppliers of so-called a priority for textile and apparel orga- Andreu, director of the Mexican textiles to source their clothes, especially items “intelligent” garments, including Grupo nizations Canaintex and Canaive, which institute, an industry consultancy. that require a quick delivery. Kaltex, which is making “eco-friend- are working to promote Mexican fash- Andreu said while U.s. apparel manu- “U.s. retailers are tired of mark- ly” apparel from bamboo plants and ion and designers in the international facturers are viewing Mexico as a fresh downs, so they are looking for an afford- corn soya, and fire-proof apparel brand arena. salazar said boosting the nation’s sourcing destination over a more prob- able production spot that can supply Carolina Protect. Martex Potosi and exports has never been more crucial lematic Asia, the “massive” shift that some their more fashionable merchandise as American textile (a Mexican firm) are given the government’s decision last have hoped for has not fully materialized. frequently as possible,” Andreu added. also working to make technical sports- year to cut Chinese import duties to 30 Angel salazar, technical secretary at A few large U.s. apparel firms already wear, Andreu said. percent from 80 percent. textiles trade union sindicato Nacional make apparel in Mexico, including levis Andreu noted that Mexico’s manufac- — Ivan CastanO

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Working with only the highest quality partners ensures products backed by around-the-clock support throughout your supply chain. Buhler’s distinctive portfolio offers Supima, MicroTencel®, MicroModal®, Supima Outlast, and various blends fabricated to exceed expectations. Bring your product to market backed by decades of experience, dependable industry relationships, and unsurpassed technical expertise. For more information, visit www.buhleryarns.com. 12 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012 WWD.COM textiles European Trade Fairs Prep for Cloudy Climate Vision asia, showcasing around 40 By Katya Foreman premium denim weavers, mainly from and Joelle DiDerich europe. the biannual event will be held in Shanghai. PariS — after weathering the recent eco- attendance levels of chinese buy- nomic downturn with less damage than ers at PV’s Paris show, meanwhile, are expected, europe’s textile industry still almost on a par with the number of ion

faces a rough road ahead. S american visitors. in September, the Vi

With the euro zone debt crisis, sluggish E show registered a 35 percent uptick in consumption and global financial turbu- chinese buyers, to around 1,500 visitors, miEr E

lence clouding the industry’s outlook and r bringing the total of visitors from the p affecting confidence, for many fabric firms Greater china region to around 2,000.

preparing for next week’s Première Vision Siaux/ “it’s these buyers who are selecting

and texworld trade shows here, the recov- ES the most expensive and sophisticated ery period has been too short for them to product — their buying power is sub- fully reconstitute operations. stantial,” said Pasquet. “many companies lowered their at texworld, artistic directors louis break-even point (to get through the last Gérin and Grégory lamaud have re- mann and Charl

economic crisis)…the biggest problem SS doubled their efforts to make the fair’s Ko

going forward will be financing,” said E offerings more creative. Philippe Pasquet, chief executive officer “the challenge is educating our of Première Vision, which will hold its chinese exhibitors to the idea that next Paris edition Feb. 14 to 16. “For com- StEphan there is no point in presenting the same panies that were already fragile, it’s going product as your next-door neighbor,

to be tough.” photo by even if it is selling very well, and put- Specifically, it’s a risky situation for a Première Vision will welcome 24 new exhibitors. ting it on the market 2 cents cheaper number of italian weavers who are insuf- in the hope that you will then end up ficiently capitalized, he said. italian firms organizer of the texworld and apparel will be able to lower their prices as they selling more,” Gérin said. “that’s not account for 320 out of the 675 weavers due Sourcing shows that will run Feb. 13 to 16 did in the past.” what european buyers are interested to show at PV. at le Bourget. europe’s textile and clothing activ- in. of course, they are looking for low With cotton trading at half the record “today, we are witnessing a period of ity in 2011 weakened significantly as the prices, but above all, they are looking prices set last spring, the cost of raw ma- stabilization, with signs that any upward year progressed, mirroring challenges for quality and innovation. nowadays, if terials is leaving a smaller dent on profit pressure on prices is being canceled out in the larger macroeconomic environ- your textiles firm does have a creative margins, but competing on price alone by other factors, such as the reality of ment, according to a report by euratex. department, it is becoming difficult to is not an option, said michael Scherpe, the market, which is less than euphoric,” output in the textile sector turned nega- compete on the european market.” president of messe Frankfurt France, the Scherpe said. “But i don’t think [sellers] tive over the January to September pe- the Paris edition of PV later will riod, down 0.9 percent year-over-year, welcome 24 new exhibitors. they in- euratex said. the eU production index clude italian knitter maglificio maggia, in the man-made fiber industry was which specializes in high-end jersey down 2.7 percent in the same period. and piqué knits for luxury brands; erring on the side of caution, PV in l’amore tessuto Srl, a new division of January said it has “indefinitely post- top Wool specializing in fantasy designs poned” the first edition of its annual for the luxury women’s wear market; congress, the PV Global meetings, citing turkey’s elyaf tekstil, a specialist in a “climate of heightened anxiety in the viscose blends that has developed a col- textile and fashion sector.” Pasquet in- lection of silks targeting fluid women’s sisted that it’s not all doom and gloom, wear pieces for the mass market, and however. While europe may be in the France’s Senszo Dimatex, a specialist doldrums, golden opportunities beckon in printing and finishings aimed at mass in other markets, new and old. market women’s and children’s fashion. among the improve- SHIRTINGS aReN’T juST ments at texworld are fresh offshoots of the Fabric experience trend foR SHIRTS aNymoRe! forums, with separate spaces for each of the Imported & Domestic Fabrics for Loungewear, Outerwear, fair’s sections: casual Linings, Beachwear, Resortwear, and of course Shirts & Blouses! View for urbanwear; attractive Spirit for wom- We inventory over 3 million yards of the highest quality textiles en’s clothing, and Strict essence for men’s. in the New York area. New items added regularly. trends for spring-sum- mer 2013 are influenced by Imported 100% cotton; premium long staple, Egyptian exotic travel, with a rich • Solid broadcloths, Superba®, Corona®, Ultimo® palette of spice shades • Oxfords and patterns that evoke sacred markings and tra- • Pinpoints ditional symbols. Fabrics • Tone on Tones, Dobbies, Satin Stripes, Jacquards on offer include silk and cotton in a variety of tex- • Piques About 600 exhibitors will show at Texworld. • Eyelets tures, including voile, “our January salons in new york and muslin and batiste with frayed edges, • Yarn-dyed Stripes & Plaids São Paulo proved that for other impor- and silks and synthetics used to fluid • Seersuckers tant zones, it’s a different mood entirely,” effect. Pastels will also make a strong • Batiste he said. “the north american market is showing, in sugary shades inspired by • Voile more vibrant than expected and as for the Fifties or the 18th century, and tex- Brazil, the dynamism of this emerging tures ranging from matte velvety effects • Gauze market continues to surprise us.” to iridescent satin. • Swiss Dot china also continues to exhibit a texworld organizers have also put • Gingham strong appetite for european luxury together a special circuit for emerging Stretch; Solids, Yarn-dyed Stripes & Piques and mainstream fabrics. designers dubbed creative Path that al- “For years, there was all this talk of lows them to buy fabric in small quan- china and now it’s become a reality, there tities. of the more than 600 exhibitors Low Minimums! is a real business opportunity,” Pasquet expected to attend, 123 have agreed to said. “european weavers today are gen- supply lengths ranging from 50 to 200 erating significant turnover there.” meters, or 54 to 218 yards. Philips-Boyne Corp.® in turn, PV is increasing its pres- “companies are gradually starting to 135 Rome Street Farmingdale, NY 11735 ence there. the company, which in understand the benefit of distributing a Tel: 631.755.1230 • Fax: 631.755.1259 march will stage the 17th edition of its product in small quantities in order to www.philipsboyne.com • [email protected] Première Vision china trade show, in have access to designer silhouettes for october will launch Denim by Première their look books,” said Gérin.

w07a012b.indd 12 2/6/12 5:31 PM 02062012173159 MEMo pad VOGUE’S SUPER NIGHT: Other than Eli Manning and the Giants, the other big winners on Super Bowl Sunday turned out to be Anna Wintour and Condé Nast. Madonna began her halftime performance Sunday night with her 1990 hit “Vogue.” Two minutes into her performance, an overhead camera revealed that her dance floor had turned into a free advertisement for the Condé Nast magazine. Madonna was dancing atop a lit-up Vogue logo. Just W W D STYLE below her flashed computer-generated panels featuring first the logo and then a series of fashion photos that looked like they came straight from the pages of the magazine. It was hard to miss, but there was one lingering question during the performance: How did the halftime show get the rights to Vogue’s logo? It turns out this had been coordinated for some time. Madonna’s team contacted Wintour and the magazine in early January. Vogue, which has a long-standing relationship with the pop icon, immediately cooperated and authorized the use of its trademark. There was no charge. “We’re so very grateful to Madonna to have been part of such a spectacular performance,” Wintour said, not surprisingly — when does a magazine get free publicity in front of 100 million TV viewers? As Wintour said, “We naturally expect a new audience of football fans.” The executives at 4 Times Square will likely be just as giddy. Over the last two years, Condé Nast has gone on an aggressive initiative to find licensing deals. Just last week, HSN launched Bon Appétit-branded cookware and appliances, something that just a few years ago would have been unheard of at Condé. Now, with Condé Nast’s newfound ethos in emphasizing the bottom line above all else, HSN deals are sought after and celebrated. But it will be hard to beat the brief exposure Vogue got Sunday night. Now, no doubt, every magazine out there is trying to figure out how to get its name into a hit song. — JOHN KOBLIN

MAKING THE SCENE: Jared Kushner’s controlled- circulation magazine, Scene, will debut on March 1, with Elettra Weidemann on the cover. The monthly style and society title is helmed by publisher and chief Scene’s first issue. executive officer Julie Dannenberg, editor in chief Peter Davis and creative director Cricket Burns, all of whom defected from Avenue magazine in December. The first issue is still being finished, but Dannenberg expects it to come in at 124 total pages, with a 60-to-40 editorial- ad ratio. Giorgio Armani has taken the back cover, and there are inside ads from jewelers Graff, Marina B. and Seaman Schepps. Real estate is well represented by Corcoran Sunshine, Douglas Elliman and Sotheby’s, among others. “Fashion has been a bit slower, as they tend to want to see the finished product first,” said Dannenberg. Scene will publish 12 issues a year, with a circulation of 45,000 distributed to high-income buildings around Manhattan, plus an additional 5,000 on newsstands. The first issue includes an investigative piece on John Galliano post-Dior and tracks the designer to the South of France; a semifictionalized account of Davis’ days growing up on the private school circuit in New York, which will be serialized monthly; a fashion shoot by stylist June Ambrose, and a dissection of Manhattan’s newest hot spot, Le Baron. Contributors to Scene include Kristian Laliberte, Tom Sykes, Hannah Bronfman, Lorenzo Extra! Extra! Martone, Arden Wohl, Luigi Tadini and Euan and Karl Lagerfeld traded the atelier for the newsroom for a one-day-only gig as Lucy Sykes Rellie. The magazine has taken up residence in Kushner’s New York guest editor of Metro International newspapers. For more on the designer’s print Observer offices, but the two titles operate exploits and the secrets he reveals, see Fashion Scoops, page 15. independently. Kushner owns a majority stake, while Dannenberg has a substantial minority stake and Davis and Burns have smaller minority stakes. — DAVID LIPKE 14 WWD tuesday, february 7, 2012 Golden Girl Bloch-Bauers’ mansion on By LORNA KOSKI the Ringstrasse was turned into the headquarters of the GuStAv KLImt’S “Portrait of Adele Austrian national railroad, Bloch-Bauer,” his elegant, iconic 1907 and Reinhard Heydrich, painting of a viennese woman, is the aka the Butcher of Prague, centerpiece of Ronald Lauder’s Neue later moved into the family’s Galerie in New York. With its intricate estate in Czechoslovakia. gold motifs, inspired by Byzantine “It was greed and mosaics the artist saw in Ravenna, it avarice,” O’Connor says of glows from the walls. But the painting’s the Nazis’ behavior. “they history is a complex one, involving wanted to shake down these war, theft and legal battles, which families, and it was more Washington Post writer Anne-marie convenient to do this if they O’Connor has now described in her demonized them. there new book, “the Lady in Gold: the were cycles of pogroms Extraordinary tale of Gustav Klimt’s [in Europe] — there was a Maria Bloch-Bauer masterpiece, ‘Portrait of Adele Bloch- cultural tradition of this, and her sister, Bauer’” (Alfred A. Knopf). but it had not reached these eye Luise, at Luise’s the painting was originally proportions.” the writer, wedding to Viktor commissioned by Ferdinand Bloch, a who now lives in mexico City, Gutmann, 1927. sugar baron; he and his wife were part of where her husband, William a sophisticated group of wealthy viennese Booth, is the Washington Jews whose interests fueled a remarkably Post’s bureau chief, went vibrant art scene. Bloch was deeply to vassar College, the San Francisco the stolen artwork had been returned who had fled the Nazis in 1933. Altmann in love with his much-younger wife, Art Institute and Berkeley and worked to governments, not individuals. Of had heard about legislation pending and she greatly enjoyed posing for the earlier at Reuters and the L.A. times. approximately 35,000 businesses that in Austria concerning art stolen by controversial Klimt. Klimt’s 1901 painting She became interested in the story of had been confiscated from Austrian the Nazis, which soon passed. the “Judith” also looks a lot like Adele, and the painting after reading a short piece Jews, O’Connor writes, only a few new law said it had been unethical for there were rumors at the time that the two about the quest of maria Altmann, one thousand were ever returned to them. “A officials to hold onto important artworks were lovers. O’Connor vividly evokes the of the Bloch-Bauer heirs, and wrote a cloud of secrecy settled over vienna, the by claiming that they were part of a hothouse realm of pre-war vienna with its number of articles about the case. city on the Danube once known for its national patrimony in exchange for salon culture and mix of intellectual and After the Anschluss, many in the love of beauty and pleasure,” she writes. allowing less significant ones to leave aesthetic currents. Bloch-Bauers’ circle began talking about “they regarded [the paintings] as the country, a common practice after Klimt had been born in poverty in leaving the country. But it had become symbols of their country,” O’Connor says World War II. Schoenberg had been 1862, the son of a gold engraver, but he difficult. this gave rise to one of the of the Austrian officials and the Klimt reading about this, too, and agreed to got a scholarship to the vienna School of few rather amusing developments in portraits. “they were strongly attached take on the case to recover the Klimts Arts and Crafts and soon began working this period, what O’Connor calls “gay to them. they didn’t understand who owned by Bloch. maria was joined as a on municipal projects. Before long, he marriage,” which means Jewish women plaintiff by her niece Nelly was getting commissions of his own. marrying Aryan gay men from other Auersperg, a noted doctor Klimt’s longtime partner was Emilie countries in order to escape. Bloch had in Canada, and three other Floge, who had a successful business fled to Czechoslovakia, then Switzerland, For more family members. designing colorful, flowing dresses where he died just after the war. photos, see It was a lawsuit that few influenced by Japanese textiles and folk Although the Nazis disliked what they ever thought would succeed, costumes, rational dress that was worn called “degenerate art,” a group of artists WWD.com/eye. but maria, a cultured, utterly without corsets. Her clients and his they considered to include the German charming woman who spoke often overlapped. Expressionists, among them Oskar the German of another age, Adele became a saloniste who was Kokoschka, they didn’t place his friend made an excellent plaintiff. outspoken about her atheism and her Klimt in this category. In fact, the largest She remembered being awed socialist views. She died suddenly in Klimt exhibition in history, organized by her Aunt Adele. O’Connor 1925 of meningitis, only two years after by Baldur von Schirach, the Nazi writes that she said, “‘I was she had written a note to her husband governor of vienna, took place in 1943. a timid little girl next to her. asking that their Klimt paintings, “He accepted Klimt as an ubermensch,” She seemed arrogant and including her two portraits, be left to O’Connor says. “Klimt was a hero, a not interested in a child... the Austrian National museum. Shortly handsome, well-built genius and also All Adele cared about after the Anschluss in 1938, the Nazis an excellent draftsman.” She notes that was knowledge, learning, began systematically confiscating the most of the paintings in the show were improving your mind.’” property of Jews, including businesses, stolen from Jewish collections. In 1999, the vienna houses and art collections. (they had the portrait the Nazis called “the Advisory Council on — and kept — meticulous lists.) the Lady in Gold” — to disguise the fact that art restitution said it depicted a Jewish that 241 pieces of art woman — survived the should be returned to Luise Gutmann war, hidden in a former the Rothschild heirs. As with her monastery at Gaming, for the Bloch-Bauer daughter Nelly and, after the conflict heirs, after years of and son Franz. ended, went to vienna’s legal maneuvering, Belvedere Palace and winning in lower museum. In February courts, they took 1998, Hubertus Czernin, their case to the the first journalist to u.S. Supreme Court, get access to previously where they eventually closed Nazi archives won, then went to on art, published an arbitration in Austria article in the Austrian itself, which mandated news magazine that the five Klimts Profil that alleged be returned. In 2006, that, as O’Connor Adele Bloch-Bauer in 1907. Lauder bought “Adele writes, “Austria had Bloch-Bauer I” for knowingly stolen vast these women were and how $135 million, then art collections from they fit into Klimt’s world. the largest amount the Rothschilds, the “I was very intrigued by The cover of the book, which of money ever paid Lederers and other what turned out to be the truth features Klimt’s painting. for a painting. the Jewish families.” behind women who wanted remaining four Austria was able to live life differently, wanted to be paintings were sold at auction for to do this, as detailed more,” O’Connor adds. “Society wanted $192.7 million. they went into private in O’Connor’s book, them to be less. many of Klimt’s models collections, and their owners have not because government were a little bit of enigmas. turn-of- been made public. officials adopted the-century vienna in many ways was One of the particularly memorable the attitude that the like the Sixties.” aspects of the book is its evocation of a state of Austria was In 1998, Altmann, Adele’s 82-year- beautiful, vanished world. “to give you an “Hitler’s first victim.” old niece who owned a dress shop idea of the time, when Freud did a book, In the art world, many in Beverly Hills, called Randol it took weeks to get a review, and he got a officials who had been Schoenberg, a young Los Angeles dismissive one,” O’Connor says. “But in a in charge during the lawyer who was the grandson — and salon, his ideas could get full interest and Nazi period were still spitting image of — the celebrated attention; it was a much more open forum.

in command. much of atonal composer Arnold Schoenberg, Salons were twitter in those days.” AUERSPERG OF NELLY COURTESY GUTMANN FAMILY OF MARIA BLOCH-BAUER; PHOTOS COURTESY MARIA AND ADELE BLOCH-BAUER

w07a014a;17.indd 14 2/6/12 6:11 PM 02062012181200 2.5x72x3 (right)

WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2012 WWD Tuesday, february15 7, 2012 15 WWD.COM

Gregory Parkinson, Monique Péan and Simon Spurr. “The designers are able to develop new international contacts and business Fashion scoops opportunities that will help them further new business globally,” CFDA chief executive officerSteven Kolb said. iN CONTROL: Karl Lagerfeld sketched hottest location, too. Van Dyck has To celebrate the showcase and honor himself wearing globe-shaped glasses been tapped to take the top marketing the designers and Hilfiger, the U.S for the cover of Metro International’s post at Facebook Inc. as it amps up Ambassador to France, Charles H. Rivkin and edition today, which he guest edited. for its initial public offering and a his wife, Susan M. Tolson, will open the doors He also depicts himself handing out move up from its 2011 advertising to their residence for a private cocktail copies of the free daily, dressed, as budget of $28 million on $1.55 billion party on March 2. — MaRC KaRiMzadeH is his present custom, in a tailcoat. in revenue. Van Dyck added Levi’s “The World According to Karl” edition “Go Forth” campaign to a résumé that LOOK OUT KeViN BaCON: How daphne Guinness includes interviews with several of already included marketing work on wound up appearing in “The Legend of the bold-faced names that orbit his the iPad and iPod while at Apple and Lady White Snake,” the short film that will universe: designers Haider ackermann Nike’s “Just Do It” campaign while at introduce GK Reid’s Genghis Khan collection, and Silvia Venturini Fendi; the singers Wieden + Kennedy. She was among shows just how entwined the fashion Florence Welch and azealia Banks, the hires of Robert Hanson, who resigned world is. (Sunday night’s screening of the and fashion editor Carine Roitfeld. as global president of the Levi’s indrani-directed flick at the Angel Orensanz Lagerfeld also fields questions about brand in November to become chief Foundation will include a photo exhibition his sex drive — “No, I’m not very executive officer of American Eagle of Markus Klinko and Indrani’s photos.) much interested in that. But it’s not Outfitters Inc. Facebook didn’t respond Guinness got to know Reid and the a question of time, people can make to requests for comment while Levi’s photographers, better known as Markus daphne Guinness headlines the short film “The quickies you know” — and fires back confirmed Van Dyck’s departure. and Indrani, through another lensman, Legend of Lady White Snake.” at those who suggest he does too many — aRNOLd J. KaRR david LaChapelle. Markus and Indrani later collaborations: “I couldn’t care less. shot the heiress and LaChapelle in coffins the director an early copy of “The Legend It depends if I know the people. If PReVieW NiGHT: “Is this the place?” for the “Keep a Child Alive” campaign, of Lady White Snake,” and, instead of unknown people say this, they should a woman asked her companion on which won two Gold Lions at Cannes for feedback, Gaiman offered the use of his send me a note and explain why. The Friday evening, as they stood outside TBWA\Chiat\Day. poem “The Hidden Chamber,” which is now limit is up to me to decide.” a pair of glass doors covered in brown Reid and Guinness, meanwhile, a core to the story line. But he is not the Readers of Metro — which is paper. “Has it opened yet?” became fast friends and cooked up only one with a writing credit. At Guinness’ distributed in 100 cities in 22 countries She was referring to new restaurant another shoot with Markus and Indrani, request, Bernard-Henri Lévy wrote her dialogue — can also find out how Lagerfeld Super Linda and the answer was during which Indrani started filming “The for the film — on the spot in Paris with takes care of his ponytail, what he — almost. A strong push of the door Legend of Lady White Snake,” a tribute Indrani and Guinness by his side. (Indrani orders at Café de Flore, and what revealed Chris Session, maître d’ to to Alexander McQueen. What started as also worked in verse from Edgar Allen furniture he chose for his new Left the beau monde, presiding over one shoot wound up being 12, and life- Poe, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Rabindranath Bank offices. He also offers his best a preopening dinner for friends size prints will be sold Sunday to benefit Tagore and Samuel Taylor Coleridge.) advice for staying slim: “I found out including Harvey Keitel, John Varvatos, Charity:Water and Indrani’s women’s The short will be entered in various that clothes are much better than Griffin dunne, Tom Sachs and Magnus empowerment school in India. film festivals, and plans are under way to scales and things like this. Clothes Berger, co-founder of The Last Reid added another dimension to the stage the exhibition in Hong Kong, Saint don’t lie,” he tells the newspaper, Magazine. The restaurant, which sort tale, by styling “Coraline” creator Neil Petersburg, Russia, and Berlin. which boasts a daily readership of 17.1 of resembles an old Mexico City joint, Gaiman for the Oscars. The designer sent — ROSeMaRY FeiTeLBeRG million. “If you have only clothes in opens its door to the rest of us today. one size and nothing one millimeter Super Linda’s debut has been bigger, the minute something hurts hotly anticipated for a few reasons, somewhere, you know it’s time. And all mainly pertaining to the owners, always keep a pair of tight jeans, who are bold-faced names in the something tight for control.” relatively small world of New York The Karl paper is also available in an nightlife and trendy restaurants. app version from iTunes and at Metro’s There’s Matt abramcyk, who was seated new style Web site, ModMods.com, on a bar stool on the basement level which goes live today. — MiLeS SOCHa of the restaurant, with his back to For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. the crowd. He looked relaxed, maybe because he’s done all this before, at Madonna The Beatrice Inn, Employees Only and in Givenchy Tiny’s, to name a few. Couture at His partner, Serge Becker, is the Super synonymous with La Esquina, The Box Bowl. and, most recently, Miss Lily’s. Richard ampudia, former owner of Café Habana, who now owns Bar Bruno, made the rounds and John DO YOU LOVE FASHION? We are a Martinez, executive chef of Tiny’s and 65 Bleecker Street SOHO/NOHO/Greenwich Village high-end Men’s & Women’s online and brick & mortar fashion specialty retailer. Jean Georges Culinary Concepts, was We are expanding and looking for an in the kitchen. “I think we’re getting ASSISTANT BUYER & SENIOR there, the kitchen is frantic tonight,” Join our New Tenant WEB GRAPHIC DESIGNER. We are located in Roslyn, NY. said Becker, who said he wants COUNCIL FOR FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA FORTUNE500-like benefits. The right Super Linda to be a neighborhood candidate is someone who is a self- at The Landmark Bayard-Condict Building starter, motivated and shows great restaurant, like The Odeon and Tiny’s attention to detail. If you are looking to grow in a high energy, fast paced just a few blocks away. environment please send resume, The street-level room has a mix Entire 9,310 sq. ft. Penthouse Available. cover letter & salary requirement to: of small tables, some of which are Beautiful Open Plan installation with 16’ x 28’ Skylight [email protected] celebrity friendly (that is, hidden). photo by Kevin Mazur/WireiMage photo by Roof Rights can be made available The lower level features two big tables SUPeR BOLd: “People say everything for group dining and a separate bar (212) 685-1514 has a limit, but limits do not exist and lounge room. The walls are filled Call Owner: with Madonna,” said Riccardo Tisci, with pictures of running horses and who designed the Givenchy couture nameplates from vintage pleasure boats. costumes the pop singer wore during Becker said later this week, Olivier Energetic sales rep needed for whole- her performance during halftime at zahm and his friends will host its sale ladies clothing co to work with cli- ents at showroom & on the phone. the Super Bowl in Indianapolis on biannual Purple Magazine dinner Base + comm, Computer knowl a+. Sunday. There were three costumes there. But don’t be fooled by the Email: [email protected] during the 12-minute performance: a trendy fashion party. This isn’t the Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS hand-embroidered gold cape; a black kind of crowd he expects to dominate Great ’New’ Office Space Avail PATTERNS, SAMPLES, ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 PRODUCTIONS minidress with a hand-studded belt, the space every night. “We want to Full service shop to the trade. and an embellished black coat. Tisci welcome everyone.” — aMY WiCKS Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 and Givenchy had collaborated with Madonna three years ago on her last BONJOUR, PaRiS: It’s round two for tour. “It is a great honor for me to the Americans in Paris program by be part of yet another historical and the Council of Fashion Designers of iconic moment,” the designer added. America and Vogue, and underwritten Bulgari said the singer wore white by Tommy Hilfiger. Ten past CFDA/ gold and diamond earrings from its Vogue Fashion Fund finalists will high jewelry collection. — M.S. show their collections in a shared showroom space at Paris’ Galerie aBOUT FaCe: Rebecca Van dyck, who Joyce at Palais Royal from March 3 to left Apple to become global chief 5, during Paris Fashion Week. They marketing officer of the Levi’s brand are Billy Reid, Creatures of the Wind, (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] last March, is headed back to the albertus Swanepoel, Ohne Titel, Pamela digital domain, and in just about its Love, Prabal Gurung, George esquivel,

w07a015a.indd 15 2/6/12 8:00 PM 02062012200202 Another reason to love The Fabric of Our Lives®

Zooey Deschanel AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ™ Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Incorporated, 2011. ™ Service Mark/Trademark COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. AMERICA’S

Critically acclaimed indie pop singer-songwriter Zooey Deschanel shows us how The Fabric of Our Lives® has become the fabric of her life in the latest advertising campaign from Cotton Incorporated. Along with actress Kate Bosworth, Zooey demonstrates cotton’s style and versatility to a whole new generation of young women. And for you that means a whole new generation of customers.