CAPITOL RECORDS BY THE BOOK How Frank Sinatra and Nat King Cole created an LA icon An unconventional tour of Melbourne involving NEYMAR IN PARIS literary giants and way A Brazilian superstar on the good life in France too much coffee
THE RISE OF WELLNESS COMMUNITIES How to fi nd your happy place
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EDITOR-IN- MANAGING PARTNER & EDITORIAL CHIEF GROUP EDITOR DIRECTOR OBAID HUMAID AL TAYER IAN FAIRSERVICE GINA JOHNSON [email protected]
GROUP SENIOR SENIOR SENIOR EDITOR EDITOR ART DIRECTOR DESIGNER
MARK EVANS ANDREW NAGY OLGA PETROFF ROUI FRANCISCO [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]
DIGITAL SUB EDITORIAL ANIMATOR EDITOR ASSISTANT
SURAJIT DUTTA SALIL KUMAR LONDRESA FLORES [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]
CONTRIBUTORS IAIN AKERMAN, GEOFF BROKATE, EMMA COILER, EMMA DAY, SARAH FREEMAN, MICHAEL HARDEN, MARINA KAY, VINCENT LONG, AARTI SAUNDALKAR; COVER: JANNE IIVONEN
GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION CHIEF COMMERCIAL GROUP SALES PRODUCTION MANAGER OFFICER MANAGER
SUNIL KUMAR R MURALI KRISHNAN ANTHONY MILNE MICHAEL UNDERDOWN [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]
ASSISTANT PRODUCTION SENIOR SALES MANAGER MANAGER
BINU PURANDARAN MURALI NARAYANAN [email protected] [email protected]
EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES EDITOR ARABIC EDITOR DEPUTY EDITOR MANNA TALIB HATEM OMAR CATHERINE FREEMAN
Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.
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133,095 copies Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE January – June 2017 Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: [email protected] Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE
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THE HERITAGE OF YOUR WEALTH...
Licensed and regulated by Central Bank of UAE Within UAE: 600 546656 - International: +971 4 384 8000 www.nationalbonds.ae/prestige CONTENTS
INTRO
16 20 22 24 28 30 34 45 EXPERIENCE THE YEAR OF TASTE STAY TRAVEL DISPATCH NEIGHBOURHOOD COLUMN ZAYED ESSENTIAL FEATURES
48 56 62 WISH YOU WERE HEALTHIER? REVOLUTION IN PARIS WORD PERFECT BRIEFING
70 72 74 76 84 88 90 NEWS INSIDE DESTINATION VISA, COMFORT, ROUTE THE CELEBRITY EMIRATES AND SMART GATE MAP FLEET DIRECTIONS
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OS84.P08-13_FrontSection.indd 11 1/23/18 2:01 PM Experience Polynesia in the heart of Dubai Parks and Resorts
Step into an exciting world of curiosity with an unforgettable stay at Lapita, a unique gateway to the endless fun and enjoyment on offer at Dubai Parks and Resorts. Create moments to treasure with friends and family and stay in Polynesian inspired rooms with theme park access, bond over a meal at incredible restaurants and unwind at the lazy river and Ola Spa. Exactly like nothing else.
Book now at lapitadubaihotel.com Tel +971 4 810 9999
Lapita, Dubai Parks and Resorts, Autograph Collection Hotels Dubai Parks and Resorts, Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O. Box 334221, Dubai, UAE LapitaHotel | LapitaHotel | LapitaHotelDubai EDITOR’S NOTE ON THE COVER
FIND YOUR HAPPY PLACE II
I was always fairly active in my youth. Football, athletics, swimming – a pretty serious BMX habit at one point. But then you become an adult. You get a job, you exercise less and the next thing you know you’ve turned 40, your trousers don’t fi t and even a light jog is enough to send your heart rate soaring. So, it was with a fair amount of desperation that I headed off to SHA Wellness Clinic in Spain. I guess it’s a little like going to therapy; I wanted somebody to explain my problems – in this case why I ached when I woke SOCIAL MEDIA up, and made an “oof” noise when I bent down – and then tell me it wasn’t
my fault, but that they could fi x me anyway. / Of course, it’s never that simple. We’re all a mental and physical product of our environment and the decisions we make. But the rise
of the wellness industry shows that we’re at least attempting to take / accountability for it all. You need to commit, that’s the message from our feature on page 48.
The diet, the exercise plan, it’s rarely easy and you will want to quit. / However, throw in the luxury locations that the industry thrives on, and the fact that it can oversee some serious lifestyle changes, and you have a viable new holiday option available to you. Two weeks away, fully revitalisd mind and body included. ANDREW NAGY ALSO AVAILABLE SEN O E TO ON YOUR IPAD
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OS84.P08-13_FrontSection.indd 13 1/23/18 2:01 PM THRILLS ON AND OFF THE TRACK! EDGE-OF-THE-SEAT ACTION. COME RACING! The competition is heating up as the finest jockeys and thoroughbreds from around the world make a bid for glory in Dubai. Watch the action unfold with family and friends over a variety of dining and hospitality options at Meydan Racecourse until March 10. Gates open at 5:00pm. First race starts at 6:30pm. BOOK NOW AT STORE.MEYDAN.AE OR CALL +971 4 327 2110
#DWCCARNIVAL
DWCC Advert_Open Skies 260x195.indd 1 18/01/2018 13:47 IntroNEIGHBOURHOOD
EXPERIENCE • TASTEINTRO • STAY • DISPATCH • NEIGHBOURHOOD
FEB. 11 TO APR. 22 MEMORIES OF DALI Check out Salvador Dali. The Memories exhibition in Dubai this month for his famed Shower of Jasmine painting – made public for only the third time ever – along with some classic images of the man himself.
CONFERENCE HALL, DIFC
Turn over to plan your month
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THE PLAN Events to aim for this month
FEB. 21-23 EMIRATES AIRLINE DUBAI INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL Duran Duran founding members Nick Rhodes and John Taylor on playing Dubai and dealing with fame WORDS: Andrew Nagy
Why do you think Duran Duran has I had a cold and was using tissues, lasted 40 years (and counting)? throwing them into a wastebasket Nick Rhodes: I think we’ve under the desk. A girl came up to remained together because we’re me some time later and told me she still able to inspire each other. took the used tissues, so she could Duran Duran is really more like ‘catch my cold’... seriously weird. an art project than a band. We How different is that early fame collaborate with other artists from in comparison to the type you different fields and constantly enjoy today? embark upon new journeys. Things were moving fast in the How did you cope with the levels early ’80s, and we weren’t fully of fame you’ve experienced? formed as adult human animals Our trajectory in the ’80s truly (speaking for myself, at least). took us by surprise – although we Consequently, there was a did have an extraordinary time. tremendous amount of emotion But we never really measured and drama invested in the slightest anything in terms of fame. When events. Egos were both swollen and we formed the band, it wasn’t sensitive. It made for a bumpy ride to become famous – that was a lot of the time. Today, we’re more just something that occasionally relaxed and have more time for happened as a consequence of what matters in life. becoming enormously popular. How does a band remain relevant Fame became something very when it spans four decades? different after the birth of reality You have to care. You have to be TV, creating a new generation of interested in current movements in young people who just wanted to music and fashion. You have to be be famous for the sake of it. I still interested in growing as a musician find this culture quite baffling. and as an artist. We always judged success on our What can we expect from your artistic achievements. performance at the Emirates Airline But those times must have been Dubai International Jazz Festival? pretty crazy? A history of post-’70s dance-pop in John Taylor: I remember doing a 90 minutes. press conference in Atlanta, Georgia, not too many years ago. DUBAI MEDIA CITY, UAE | DUBAIJAZZFEST.COM
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FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION...
FEB. 4 SUPER BOWL LII The New England Patriots will play the Philadelphia Eagles for the 52nd Super Bowl. However it’s often worth watching for the half-time show and adverts, alone, the latter costing an eye-watering US$7,7m per 30-second slot.
MINNESOTA, US | NFL.COM
FEB. 8-9 REDFEST DXB Heading into its fifth edition in 2018, Redfest DXB has eight main acts across two days. Sets from The Chainsmokers, Kesha and Craig David are the standout options, and along with DJ sets and more, it’s a great way to start the month.
DUBAI, UAE | REDFESTDXB.COM
FEB. 9-14 RIO CARNIVAL The biggest carnival in the world, with around two million people in attendance. Make your choice between the parades at the Sambadrome or the wild street parties in the city. Whichever you choose, expect five days of pure crazy.
RIO, BRAZIL | RIOCARNAVAL.ORG
FEB. 16 TO MAR. 2 CHINESE NEW YEAR Enjoy 15 days of parades, light shows, dragon boat races and more. You can celebrate in most major cities, but if you Enjoy great jazz music on today’s flight, including dedicated playlists from Quincy want the biggest and best, try Singapore, Jones – check out his All Time Favourites for over San Francisco, Beijing and, for the mother 90 legendary tracks, and Q’s Next Generation, of all parties, Hong Kong. which features newer music.
GLOBAL
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FEB. 14 NEYMAR JR The Champions League gets serious this month, so we asked the world’s most expensive footballer about playing against Real Madrid and his new life in Paris
My favourite part of Paris? It’s the stadium, of course – but the Eiffel Tower is very impressive. When I signed, the tower lit up and welcomed me to the city. That was very humbling, to see one of the most famous monuments in the world do that for me. Barcelona and Paris Saint-Germain are both great clubs But they’re different, too. At PSG there are many Brazilian players who I know well from the national team, so that’s been very good for me. To already have friends here made things easy. I’ll tell you what has surprised me The fact that there are so many Latin American people living here. In Barcelona you expect it because of the language, but not in Paris… that shocked me. You can get fantastic Brazilian food in Paris I love Boteco, a great little Brazilian restaurant and cocktail bar (find it at 48 Rue l’Échiquier). More importantly, it’s very authentic too. PSG can beat Real this month – and go on to win the Champions League We have the players and the team to win it, for sure. We’ve shown that we can beat anyone, and we know we’re now at the level where we can win, not just in France, but There’s always a reason to visit Paris also in Europe. Real Madrid are one But if you come this month and can stay just a of the best – there’s a reason why few days into March, you might be lucky enough
they’ve won three out of the last four to get a ticket for PSG vs Real Madrid – and Check out the Paris St-Germain Champions League titles – so this is hopefully see us progress into the quarterfinals. Channel in Sport TV on ice. You can going to be a big test for us. But it’s a also catch Champions League matches live on Emirates aircraft equipped with Live TV. test we’re ready for. SANTIAGO BERNABÉU STADIUM, MARID, SPAIN | REAL VS. PSG
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On taking power in 1966, Sheikh Zayed immediately embarked on the 54.3773° E 54.3773° 24.4539° N N 24.4539° ABU DHABIABU intensive – and extensive – development initiatives that Abu Dhabi required. One of the most important decisions came in his early period as Ruler, just two years after his accession to power. At the time, Abu Dhabi was little more than a small coastal village, connected to the mainland via a rough causeway that had been built in the early 1950s. The decision to construct Al Maqta Bridge in 1968 would become a key development for the city, ensuring efficient access for years to come. But its ramifications would spread far wider than that. Al Maqta Bridge (al maqta means PAVING THE WAY crossing point) enabled Abu Dhabi Al Maqta to flourish, but it also signalled Bridge (below left) connected Sheikh Zayed’s intent, and was a Abu Dhabi to the mainland precursor to the development of and allowed thousands of kilometres of paved the city to flourish (top highways that would eventually left and bottom span the length and breadth of the right) UAE. Today, this road system ranks among the finest in the world.
SOURCES: SHEIKH ZAYED: LIFE AND TIMES (NOOR ALI RASHID); FATHER OF OUR NATION; THE UAE FIFTY YEARS IN PICTURES (RAMESH SHUKLA) | BOOKSARABIA.COM
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OS84.P20-21_Zayed.indd 20 1/23/18 5:56 PM THE YEAR OF ZAYED
What is the Year of Zayed? TWO TO VIEW To celebrate the centennial Artistic impressions anniversary of the birth of of the Year of Zayed the UAE’s founding father, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, 2018 will see 12 months of events to honour his life and legacy.
1 The Hatta mural If you’re heading to the new walking trails in Hatta, then check out the 80-metre-tall mural of the UAE’s founding fathers, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan and Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum, on Hatta Dam. Created by German street-artist Case Maclaim – part of a US$354 million development in the region – it’s a great way to celebrate their legacy.
HATTA, UAE | VISITDUBAI.COM
2 The Founding Leader Check the side The words of Sheikh Zayed are the source of your plane if of a new exhibition at Abu Dhabi Art Hub you can today; it could well feature Emirates’ entitled The Founding Leader. Twenty artists bespoke livery in tribute have created different impressions and to Sheikh Zayed. A total portraits in honour of the Year of Zayed, and of ten Emirates aircraft they can be viewed until February 10. carry the decal – five Airbus A380s and five Boeing 777-300ERs. GALLERY, LEVEL 1 | THE MALL WORLD TRADE CENTRE | ABU DHABI, UAE | ADAH.AE
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DUBAI CABIN FEVER Restaurant, art studio, gallery, shop – Cabin just raised the bar
Hospitality runs in the family. “My dad was a restaurateur,” says Cabin co-owner Jonathan Gent (his partner being Emirati designer Rami Farook). “I love the buzz that you get within the industry, but life took me on a different route and I went to art school.” Cabin is a restaurant with the ethos of a studio. “Both are taken seriously, but it’s a restaurant first and foremost.” Every product is made onsite. “From the candles and art knives, to the carved walking sticks and handkerchiefs.” COURCHEVEL 1850 The design is a labour of love. “We drew it and made it, even the tables outside – it’s THE WHITE a true passion project.” They only play vinyl. “Sometimes the STUFF music stops and our team doesn’t have Caine) along with an Andy Warhol piece How to win time to change the record, so you get and the first pencil sketch of the skull by Valentine’s Day silence. Then, out of nowhere, Fleetwood Damien Hirst, amongst others.” Mac will kick in and it’s lovely.” This is not your usual venue. “We’re going Those struggling with the Be sure to check out the gallery wall. to launch our painting lessons on the roof logistical side of romance “There are some of my paintings (Gent’s next, which is really, really exciting.”
during February should work has been bought by everyone from CABIN, 15 MAINSAN TOWERS, AL BARSHA SOUTH, enlist the services of the Tilda Swinton to Ewan McGregor to Michael DUBAI, UAE | CABINDUBAI.COM Valentine’s Valet at Les Grandes Alpes Private Hotel. A stunning resort nestled amongst the snowy peaks of DUBAI FOOD FESTIVAL the French Alps, your valet Three options for the tastiest time of year will ensure champagne on ice, hand-crafted chocolates, and even two hours with a personal shopper. Then, after a hard day on the slopes, head back to your cabin, where your valet will have run a warm bath, before heading to fine dining Japanese restaurant Le Bizan for a five-course EAT LIKE A KING HIT THE BEACH TASTE OF DUBAI tasting menu. Twenty-two restaurants – Featuring food trucks, Pushing into the final two
1. RUE DE L’EGLISE – 73120, COURCHEVEL including Folly by Nick & pop-up restaurants and days of the festival, Taste of 1850 | GRANDESALPES.COM Scott, Jean-Georges Dubai live music, the Beach Dubai is a mainstay of the and Bread Street Kitchen by Canteen is always one of city’s calendar, and features For more restaurants to try in Dubai Gordon Ramsay – offer three the most popular elements celebrity chefs, live cooking check out the Dubai Restaurants course meals for US$54. of Dubai Food Festival. stations and live music. podcast on ice. FEB. 22-MAR. 3 FEB. 22-MAR. 10 MAR. 8-10
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BRAZIL A CULTURAL EXCHANGE Life is all about world-class jazz, Michelin-starred fine dining and rich Italian heritage at this iconic São Paulo address
WORDS: Sarah Freeman IMAGES: Fasano
SÃO PAULO
WHILE YOU’RE IN SÃO PAULO Head to Bar Samba in Vila Madalena for great music and a feast of traditional feijoada (beans, rice, dried meat, kale, farofa and oranges).
Emirates operates a daily service to São Paulo with the Airbus A380.
Paulistanos are rather architects Isay Weinfield and rooms – outfitted with mid-20th fond of hotel Fasano, a Marcio Kogan, whose mid-century century Milanese furniture, Eames São Paulo institution that European aesthetic infuses its 25 chairs, parquet floors, walk-in- 23.5505° S S 23.5505° 46.6333° W 46.6333° SÃO PAULO SÃO has become synonymous floors. The lobby is all rich caramel closets and Egyptian cotton linens. with the city, despite its tones, dripping in leather, with no- Worthy of a mention, too, are all-Italian roots. The Fasanos are expense-spared travertine marble the expansive wall-to-wall white fourth-generation restaurateurs, and a striking long copper-fronted marble, minimalist bathrooms and who moved to Brazil’s mega-city desk. The look is toned-down two-person marble tubs (so deep, from Milan in 1902 to build their in the luxurious apartment-like you might just struggle to get out). gastronomic empire, starting Take relaxation to the next level, out with just a simple brasserie. literally, at its penthouse spa and Its flagship Fasano, named after rooftop indoor pool, which afford great-grandfather Vittorio Fasano, End on a blue note epic views over the city’s high rises is touted as one South America’s For one of the city’s most stylish and lush greenery of the Fasano’s nightcaps, check into the hotel’s finest Italian restaurants. historic, Jardin district address. Also late-night jazz bar, Baretto, The hotel’s design credentials where blues, bossa nova and a luxury shopping haven, Jardin’s stack up well too. Its striking neo some of the best single malts in the city are on the very own Bond Street is the Rua Art Deco clock tower façade (crafted menu, every night of the week. If you’re lucky, you may Oscar Freire – conveniently a two- from imported English bricks) is catch Bebel Gilberto or Jamie Cullum tinkling on its minute fashionable stride away. the product of revered Brazilian grand piano’s ivories. FASANO.COM.BR
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INDONESIA THE CITY HIDEAWAY A stylish six-star spot in the centre of Bandung, The Trans Luxury Hotel deals with the hustle and bustle on your behalf
WORDS: Emma Day IMAGES: The Trans Luxury Hotel
As cars crawl beneath
your feet like ants under the glass-bottomed deck 6.9175° S S 6.9175° BANDUNG
107.6191° E 107.6191° on the 18th floor, it will strike you that The Trans is a hotel of contrasts. On one hand, this sprawling complex offers a selection of knuckle-whitening attractions; on the other, its walls house a soothing haven, from the calming Balinese- inspired spa to the elegantly appointed rooms. The labyrinth-like hotel seems to embody the spirit of its hometown, Bandung – the capital of West Java and Indonesia’s third largest city. Famed for its stunning mountains and lush greenery, Bandung is also teeming with markets, cafes and Art Deco-inspired buildings. The Trans, however, offers a hideaway from the city’s bustle, with not a single rev from the roads’ plentiful motorbikes heard in its Thrill seeking Speedy service and a pool lined rooms. As the nation’s only six-star If you’d like an adrenaline with sand (imported from Australia) hotel, luxury touches are second rush without leaving town, are hallmarks of its quality, while a nature, a touch of stylish black then check out Trans Studio fine-dining restaurant with views of marble here, a lick of gilding there, Bandung. A stone’s throw the city’s mountains is the jewel in away from the hotel, this but always in good taste; the setting The Trans’ crown. indoor theme park boasts 20 exhilarating rides, encourages relaxation rather than However, if it’s adventure you including plenty of family-friendly options. The excess, from the bath bomb nestled hotel complex also features a 200-store-strong seek, then allow us to show you the over the tub to the myriad artworks mall, so if vertical drops aren’t your thing, simply rollercoaster. scattered throughout. hit the shops instead. THETRANSHOTEL.COM
WHILE YOU’RE IN BANDUNG Head about 10km from the city centre to the village of Cisarua, and from there take a walk to the stunning Cimahi Waterfall. Take your bathers, as you can swim there, too.
BANDUNG Emirates offers multiple daily flights to Jakarta and Bali.
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ESSENTIALS
MARDI GRAS TRAVEL ESSENTIALS For those not heading Time to ditch the unsightly carry-on in favour of to New Orleans… something practical and stylish you can grow old with
SECURITY The roll top ingeniously fastens at the back, meaning extra security for the user.
ROOM TO MOVE With a laptop sleeve and other smaller pockets, this backpack is ideal for travel. 1 Colombia Carnaval de Barranquilla was named one of the Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by Unesco in 2003.
GROWING OLD Made with premium leather, it will develop its own individual patina over time and with use.
2 USA Other cities may stand in New Orleans’ shadow FEATURING here, but a George Clinton and Parliament- Brooks England THE BAG THE FESTIVAL Funkadelic gig on Fat Tuesday can’t be too bad. Pickwick Mardi Gras translates into Fat Tuesday. It’s a fact that we backpack, US$435, kind of enjoy almost as much as the event itself. A global MRPORTER.COM celebration, this one is a bucket-list trip for the wanderer, with the number one spot being New Orleans. For such adventures, Fly to New Orleans a solid backpack is vital. Modern-day carry-on luggage with Emirates amounts to a small wheelie suitcase in 2018, and that’s fine and JetBlue and earn Skywards until you get to your destination – and aren’t going to the Miles when you office. However, this bag will look sharp regardless of weather fly. JetBlue’s non-stop or outfit changes. There’s plenty of room inside and it opens flights to New from the back, making it a heck of a lot more difficult to get Orleans depart from Emirates into for those who aren’t meant to. destinations Made with leather crafted in the Tuscan hills by Brooks 3 including Boston, New England – they’re actually bicycle specialists, which accounts Czech Republic In the small village of Staré Hamry, the door-to- York JFK and for the unique design – this bag will age nicely, as you do. Best Fort Lauderdale. door processions have made it to the Unesco take it somewhere worthwhile. World Intangible Cultural Heritage List.
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OS84.P28_TravelEssentials.indd 28 1/23/18 1:41 PM Deputy Prime Presidential Ministerand Ministerof Affairs Mansour binZayed Al Nahyan Under thePatronage HisHighnessSheikh of ABU DHABI SHEIKH ZAYED GRANDMOSQUE, 20.09.2017 -19.03.2018
Hilya by Rasheed Butt in nastaliq and thuluth scripts, 2000–01, Pakistan © HE Mohammed al-Murr Collection USA CAPITOL RECORDS
BUILDINGAn iconic LA building that’s more than the sum of its parts
WORDS: Marina Kay
Those familiar with spycraft Despite such a polarising opinion, the public might put their skills to good use took to the tower. Perhaps that Warholian when next in Los Angeles. Driving aspect helped to cement it as a Los Angeles 34.0522° N N 34.0522° 118.2437° W 118.2437°
LOS ANGELES LOS towards Hollywood on Highway architectural icon, a close second to its slightly 101, you’ll spot a stacked cylindrical more popular neighbour, the Hollywood sign. building topped by a blinking beacon. That’s Ringed by offices, the 13-storey building is the iconic Capitol Records tower whose rooted in three recording studios, situated on flickering red signal taps out the letters the ground floor. “Of the two main recording H-O-L-L-Y-W-O-O-D in Morse Code. studios, one remains in original condition Established in 1942, Capitol Records opened as an example of High Modern design. The its LA headquarters in 1956, and in a city not other was remodelled a few decades ago, unused to steamrolling bricks and mortar with the original Modern design replaced towards an ever-brighter future, the building with dark oak wood features,” explains Hess. has stood the test of time. Here, the first base The studios are connected to echo chambers, of any record label on the West Coast, is where designed with the help of jazz guitarist and the talents of Frank Sinatra, Nat King Cole and inventor Lester William Polsfuss, better known Barbra Streisand were honed. as Les Paul. Located 30 feet underground, During the tower’s design phase, it was referred they feature “seven layers of wall and floors to as “Project X in the Welton Becket Associates floating on asphalt-impregnated cork to [architectural] office because it was top secret”, eliminate all vibration”, per Capitol Records explains Alan Hess, architect and contributor to co-founder Glenn E Wallichs. Sound is fed the book 75 Years Of Capitol Records (Taschen). from the studios to the echo chambers, lined “Capitol did not want word to get out about with just microphones and speakers. “It’s their new headquarters until they were ready to capable of producing a reverberation lasting announce it,” he continues. up to five seconds,” writes Taschen contributor That the building looks like a giant stack of Sean Wilentz. The chambers reroute the ICONIC RE-CODE BREAKING The circular Be like the Capitol Records Building and know your Morse code shellac records – not to mention its 90-foot rooftop enhanced sound directly to the mixing boards form of the spire resembling a phonograph needle – apparently up in the studios, where sound engineers building was dictated by a comes down to sheer coincidence, as even the can adjust the effects as they like. These tight budget that called for young architect responsible for the design, 24-year- studios set the industry’s gold standard. cost and space old Lou Naidorf, was unaware of his client’s identity Frank Sinatra held the first recording session efficiencies while carrying out the project. Naidorf’s decision in 1956 – not as crooner, but as conductor to the to work with a circular form was actually dictated orchestral Tone Poems of Colour album. Since by a tight budget that called for cost and space then, plenty of voice-overs, jingles and sessions efficiencies. Even he was dubious about the final have been held here, including Frank Sinatra result, describing the tower’s form as “bland” with Sings for Only the Lonely, which the singer “the proportions of a Campbell’s soup can”. considers his “best recorded work”.
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ICONIC HOLLYWOOD Three stylish examples of historical cool in LA
1 The Hollywood Roosevelt This stunning Art Deco hotel has undergone a recent renovation that takes it back to its Hollywood heyday. Marilyn Monroe used to live here, while the renowned Tropicana pool was designed by David Hockney. 7000 HOLLYWOOD BLVD
2 Frolic Room Frolic began life as a speakeasy in the 1930s. Howard Hughes purchased the Pantages Theatre next door in 1949, which would go on to host the Oscars until 1954 – with Frolic being the official afterparty. 6245 HOLLYWOOD BLVD
MAKE LIKE MORSE Tap out Hollywood like the Capitol But for many, however, the building means
= H more than just music and glamour. It’s a sign = O of comfort and familiarity. As the singer Beck = L explains in the foreward to the Taschen book: = L “As a kid, whenever we were returning from some = Y far-flung part of the city in the back of a gas 3 = W guzzler on a hot smoggy day, I can remember = O the Capitol Records building always signified that Musso & Frank Grill = O A legendary restaurant that still offers a real we were almost home, and that our interminable, glimpse of old-world Hollywood. Regulars have = D screenless, seat-beltless, air-conditioningless ride included Humphrey Bogart, Marilyn Monroe and Charlie Chaplin. Order a chicken pot pie Emirates operates a daily service to was coming to an end… when I see the Capitol and the M&F martini for the full experience. Los Angeles with the Airbus A380. building, I am home.” 6667 HOLLYWOOD BLVD
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OS84.P30-31_Dispatch.indd 31 1/23/18 1:41 PM EXPO
UAE A SUSTAINABLE LEGACY In a world where buildings can capture energy from the sun and fresh water from humid air, Expo 2020 Dubai is set to be the most sustainable World Expo ever
WORDS: Iain Akerman
Leaf electric vehicle to get half way to Mars (about 23 million kilometres), and the pavilion will also produce 22,000 litres of water per day at peak capacity – more than enough to fill three Olympic-sized pools per year.” Across the site, Expo 2020 is working to save resources – and then use renewables. Smart building and smart grid technology will reduce power consumption by 20 per cent, while 50 per cent of consumed electricity will come from renewable sources. All Expo-built buildings will meet the rigorous LEED Gold or Platinum standards for green building. Legacy is also crucial to Expo 2020’s sustainability plans. Eighty Expo 2020 Dubai is all Pavilion. “The Sustainability Pavilion per cent of all Expo-built buildings
about making a real will seek to affect a mind shift in and structures will remain as part of difference – and no more the millions of visitors expected to District 2020. DUBAI 55.2708° E 55.2708° 25.2048° N N 25.2048° so than in the priority area attend,” says Al-Ali. In January, Expo 2020 launched of sustainability. It aims The flagship pavilion also will set a US$270,000 ‘Sustainability to address the challenge of living new standards in green building by Champions’ challenge for all schools in balance with the environment by producing much of its energy and in the UAE to showcase how they’re integrating sustainable principles, water requirements through solar playing their part in ensuring a not only, in its design and panels and by recycling greywater. sustainable future in the UAE. operations, but also in the visitor “The expected production of “Legacy has been core since we experience, impact and legacy. four gigawatt hours per year of started planning for Expo 2020 “Our impact will go beyond the electricity is enough for a Nissan Dubai,” says Al-Ali. “A sustainable site by contributing to off-site legacy is no longer purely a reference sustainable programmes nationally, to preserving the environment; the influencing regionally, and acting as sustainability of a World Expo now a catalyst for action globally,” says naturally encompasses a wide gamut Najeeb Al-Ali, Executive Director, of intangibles, from its enduring Dubai Expo 2020 Bureau. economic and social impact to its Much of this will be done through ability to instill new values and creating inspirational narratives, Hear more about this event on the Expo 2020 inspiration in visitors.” Dubai podcast on ice channel 1501. particularly in the Sustainability EXPO2020DUBAI.AE
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OS84.P32_Expo.indd 32 1/23/18 1:42 PM S E T T I N G N E W S T A N D A R D S O F L U X U R Y
See us at the: Dubai International Boat Show February 27 - March 3, 2018 Stand MD-10
Superyacht Collection 155 - 135 - 125 - 122 - 110 - 105 - 100
Yacht Collection 90 - 77 - 70 - 63 - 56 - 48 by majesty-yachts.com | [email protected] 34 / OPEN SKIES
OS84.P34-39_Neighbourhood.indd 34 1/23/18 1:47 PM NEIGHBOURHOOD
VENUE INDICATOR BRUSSELS SHOPPING DRINK CULTURE FOOD SPORT HOTEL WHAT TO DO IN BRUSSELS A pie chart of activity
Talking politics – Checking out the it’s home to the EU 10% Tin Tin murals on the 30% Comic Strip Route
Eating chocolates. Well, it is Belgium after all 20% 30% Scuba diving in one 10% Eating frites where of the world’s deepest they were invented underground pools
BELGIUM SAINT-GILLES, BRUSSELS WORDS AND IMAGES: Sarah Freeman
The south-central commune of over a beer and snacks like tête pressée, in typically Saint-Gilles is home to the oldest Bruxellois cafés like L’Union and Le Verschueren. continually run markets in the city, But it’s not all Belgian brasseries. Portuguese 4.3517° E 4.3517° BRUSSELS 50.8503° N N 50.8503° Marché du Parvis de Saint-Gilles, bakeries like Jynga, Moroccan grocery stores, and the largest in Europe, Marché Hungarian butchers, and funky Italian bistros such de la Gare du Midi. It was largely agricultural as Cipiace are a guage of its multiculturalism. until the 19th century – a land of marshy plains This place has some genuinely eclectic with a claim to fame of cultivating the first architecture, so eyeball some of the city’s finest brussels sprout in the 1600s. Its agricultural wrought-ironwork and stained glass windows plots would eventually evolve into attractive along Rue Vanderschrick. A mere 10-minute stroll maison de maître townhouses at the turn of the from here lie two of the commune’s most notable 20th century. landmarks: the French chateaux-styled Town A commune of two halves, cobwebbed by tram Hall of Saint-Gilles, and nearby turn-of-the-20th- and subway lines, Saint-Gilles’ elegant upper century Tudor-style prison – both the handiwork region of Châtelain is studded with grand Art of Joseph Dumont. Nouveau mansions, in stark contrast to its Gare It’s fair to say that much of the commune’s du Midi region, characterised by more traditional artistic charm is rooted in its past. But workers’ houses, or maisons d’ouvrier. experimental community-focused spaces like Bridging the geographical (and social) gap is the Jacques Franck and Pianofabriek are bringing district’s nerve centre and bohemian heart, Parvis de its creative credentials bang up to date, together Saint-Gilles – a charming cobblestone square and with the street-art talents of Bonom (Belgium’s home to a market that bears the same name, dating answer to Banksy). To coin a local phrase, this is a back to 1865. This is where Saint-Gilloise life unfolds neighbourhood with heaps of ‘belgitude’.
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OS84.P34-39_Neighbourhood.indd 35 1/23/18 1:47 PM START 1. ALIMENTATION GÉNIALE For an alternative Saint-Gilles market experience, head to Alimentation Géniale, which, despite its location, is not your average corner grocery store. What started life as humble veggie boxes being biked around Brussels by four fresh-out-of- university graduates has matured into an organic community for Saint-Gilles. Stacked atop artist palettes are vats of self-serve chickpeas, lentils and quinoa, all-natural bio cleaning detergents, a locally produced organic beauty range and acacia honey supplied by rural French beekeepers. Every Saturday founder Anthony Graça (who still ferries produce on two wheels) also hosts a small market in a converted warehouse on Rue de la Glacière.
AVENUE DE LA PORTE DE HAL 1 | 1060 SAINT-GILLES | +32 2 720 5038
A NINE- MINUTE TRAM RIDE 2. HORTA MUSEUM There are few better places to hone your Art Nouveau history than the former residence of its founding father, Victor Baron Horta. Four floors of stained glass splendour, swirling balconies, marble mosaic flooring and ornate furniture are housed in this Unesco Heritage-listed museum. The money shot (if only photos were permitted) is the Tiffany glass skylight that illuminates the spiral staircase, but don’t overlook eccentric details like the private, swing-out urinal in the master bedroom. For more curvaceous Horta design, check out the city’s Centre for Fine Art and the Belgian Comic Strip Centre.
RUE AMÉRICAINE 25, 1060 BRUXELLES | +32 2 543 0490 HORTAMUSEUM.BE
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OS84.P34-39_Neighbourhood.indd 36 1/23/18 1:49 PM NEIGHBOURHOOD
A FIVE- MINUTE BICYCLE RIDE 4. FRITERIE DE LA BARRIÈRE If you’re going to indulge in just one Belgian cultural cliché, make it eating frites. Fritkots (aka chip stands) are scattered across the city, but not all are made equally. A neighbourhood favourite is Friterie de la Barrière, positioned just off one of the city’s most famous roundabouts, Saint-Gilles Barrier. This no-frills trailer on wheels has been serving up paper cones of Brusseleirs’ favourite salty fried carb for 30 years, which you can walk off (or at least attempt to) at the nearby Parc de Forest.
AVENUE DU PARC, 1060 SAINT-GILLES, +32 2 537 5770
A FOUR- MINUTE BICYCLE A FIVE- RIDE MINUTE WALK 3. LUPINETTE CONCEPT STORE Fill your boots with vintage Parisian and Italian fashion, Art Deco Belgian ceramics and Scandinavian minimalist homeware at this unique emporium, run by art historian author Anne-Lise. Literally everything is for sale, from the antique fitting room chair to the surreal jellyfish suspended over the counter.
CHAUSSÉE DE WATERLOO 345, 1060 BRUXELLES | +32 474 314 064 LUPINETTE.COM
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OS84.P34-39_Neighbourhood.indd 37 1/23/18 1:49 PM Emirates launched flights to Brussels on September 5, 2014. In October of last year an additional daily flight was introduced, providing a double-daily service. Today Emirates’ latest generation 777-300ER operates on the route, providing fully enclosed private suites in First Class, as well as refreshed Business and Economy Class cabins.
A FIVE- 5. MINUTE DUST WALK DEALERS Much like the original vinyl for sale, Parisian storeowner Julien Delannoy is the real deal. “All the records I sell, I know them, which means I can talk about them,” he explains, as a record crackles on the turntable. It comes as no surprise to discover that 80 per cent of the jazz and soul music in his cosy, living room-styled shop hails from personal collection. Dust Dealers joins the ranks of 12 vinyl stores in the city, each specialising in a different genre. Here you can shop rare finds like solo pianist Mal Waldron’s Blues For Lady Day album and jazz saxophonist’s Eric Dolphy’s Out To Lunch! and not feel guilty about sinking into Dust Dealers’ well-worn sofa for an afternoon As well as having its fair listening to all of Julien’s jazz. share of fritkots, Brussels
RUE VANDERSCHRICK 22, SAINT-GILLES, has an average of 138 1060 BRUSSEL, +32 488 463 525, restaurants per square mile DUSTDEALERS.COM
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OS84.P34-39_Neighbourhood.indd 38 1/23/18 1:48 PM NEIGHBOURHOOD
. LE VERSCHUEREN This no-nonsense Brusselär cafe (which boasts a G Beautrix-designed modernist façade) has been brewing beer since the 1930s. Be prepared to jostle for space with the locals, who cram into its Art Deco oak-panelled walls for a taste of their home-brewed Verschueren Triple beer and a Brussels of yesteryear. Take a closer look at the vintage football scoreboard that emblazons the rear wall, it harks back to a time when the owner would broadcast live scores over the radio.
SINT-GILLISVOORPLEIN 11 1060 SINT-GILLES +32 2 53 4068
A T O- MINUTE WALK . CENTRE CULTUREL JACQUES FRANCK This popular creative hub hosts an eclectic musical programme, art- house cinema screenings, poetry slams and varied exhibitions that span the gamut from comic book art to fashion photography.
CHAUSS E DE ATERLOO, 4 1060 SAINT-GILLES +32 2 538 020
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OS84.P34-39_Neighbourhood.indd 39 1/23/18 1:48 PM LUNCH WITH
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OS84.P40-43_LunchWith.indd 40 1/23/18 1:52 PM LUNCH WITH
I have left Dunthorne, who seems confident he can navigate the UK long menu, in charge of choosing our food. He orders Smacked Cucumber, Numbing-and-Hot JOE DUNTHORNE Fried Beef, Ants Climbing a Tree, From teenage rebellion to social dysfunction, Tyrant’s Chicken, Dry-fried Green The Beano to Kafka, we talk childhood with the Beans, Fish-fragrant Aubergines Welsh author over lunch at Barshu in London’s Soho and plain steamed rice. He delights in the names of the dishes. WORDS: Charlie Carver IMAGES: Rebecca Matthews “It was a happy childhood,” he continues once the waitress has departed. “There was a lot of being beaten up by my middle sister, but I have somehow incorporated that
Oliver Tate, the oddball blonde and swept into a neat but into a happy memory as well.”
protagonist in Joe relaxed side parting. His coat, Seven bowls are placed on the Dunthorne’s critically which hangs on the back of his table. The dishes, their colours and LONDON LONDON 0.1278° W 0.1278° 51.5074° N N 51.5074° acclaimed debut novel, chair, is a sharp dark green trench. flavours equally bright, live up to Submarine, is a 15-year- Dunthorne is the third child of their names. We reload our plates old comprehensive school pupil Hugh and Kristine Dunthorne, constantly throughout the next from a middle-class family living in both academics, now retired. hour of conversation, but the food, Swansea, Wales. He is utterly self- When he was growing up, in a like all Chinese food, is destined absorbed, socially dysfunctional large Victorian house with his never to be finished in one sitting. and unable to comprehend the parents and two older sisters, his Dunthorne’s home was “bookish”. behaviour of adults, especially father, a historian specialising His parents read obscure academic his mother and father. in 17th century Dutch history, texts; his older sister encouraged In the 2010 film adaptation, worked as a lecturer at Swansea him to read the classics. He rebelled directed by Richard Ayoade, Oliver University, and his mother, an art by reading Terry Pratchett, Roald Tate is masterfully portrayed historian, worked as a lecturer at Dahl and comic books including by Welsh actor Craig Roberts, Swansea Metropolitan University. 2000AD and The Beano. “I probably sporting a mop of dark brown “I was born in the ‘great snow’ of read quite a lot but I didn’t read hair, a tightly buttoned duffle 1982, as my father likes to call it,” widely at all until I got to 16 or 17, and coat and a crazed stare. says Dunthorne. “There are photos then I found books that fitted more Twenty years ago, Joe Dunthorne, of queues in the bakery, half a mile closely with my nihilistic world view,” who has just taken a seat opposite long. I don’t know why there were he says. “I started reading Kafka, me in Barshu, the Chinese queues in the bakery because it was I started reading Camus. I found restaurant in London’s Soho the snowing,” he adds with a laugh. my thing. Then, in a slightly self- writer has chosen for our lunch, important way, I read the classics.” was a 15-year-old comprehensive He calls this process of working school pupil from a middle-class LONDON his way through the western family living in Swansea, Wales. literary canon “fraud insurance”. But it seems that is where the It’s something Oliver Tate might Emirates operates nine similarities between Dunthorne daily flights to London. do, a phrase he might use. and his best-known character end. Choose from six daily “I think I’m probably more services to London Joe Dunthorne is not Oliver Tate. Heathrow and three self-aware [than Oliver], but I’m The celebrated author and poet is daily services to London definitely capable of that level smiling, his excited eyes greedily Gatwick. Starting of clumsiness and lack of social June 8, Emirates will studying the more appealing than operate an additional awareness,” he says. “I can be quite average food photography on daily service to London internal. I can overthink. In an Stansted. Barshu’s menu. His hair is dark interview like this, it’s very easy
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OS84.P40-43_LunchWith.indd 41 US France Japan 1/23/18 1:52 PM = = LUNCH WITH
THE BILL 1 SMACKED CUCUMBER (US$11) 1 NUMBING-AND-HOT DRIED BEEF (US$14) 1 ANTS CLIMBING A TREE (US$19) 1 TYRANT’S CHICKEN (US$21) 1 DRY-FRIED GREEN BEANS (US$18) 1 FISH-FRAGRANT AUBERGINES (US$18) 3 PLAIN STEAMED RICE (US$20)
TOTAL: US$121
to just overcomplicate your own life, your own thoughts. I find it very easy to make patterns that are very complicated out of what can be a straightforward story.” Dunthorne’s road to success is just that – a straightforward story. He started writing poems and short stories in his mid-teens, applied for and won a place on the University of East Anglia’s celebrated Creative Writing BA (hons) course. From there he progressed to the MA course, during which he wrote Submarine. “The truth is that it happened “I think a child’s perspective most personal novel to date. “In quite easily, and my instinct to can be a very useful lens through your twenties, you don’t even see create a narrative bumps up which to view adult relationships,” children,” he says. “People with against that, but there wasn’t much says Dunthorne, refilling his plate. prams are ghosts to you. They struggle,” he says. “I studied, I wrote “It helps to have a no bull**** voice mean nothing. The thought of these it, after a year it was made into a that can coldly observe adult idiots walking around carrying book, and then it was made into behaviour in a semi-scientific way.” these scream boxes doesn’t make a film. Looking back now, having Dunthorne’s third novel, The any sense. You ignore them or experienced lots of projects fail Adulterants, published on February don’t think about them, but slowly or go badly or not go as well as 1, is set in London and narrated by biology is doing its dark magic that, it seems insane. But at the Ray, a thirty-something freelance inside of you and you start to time I only had that experience.” tech journalist on the verge of think about it. There’s part of you Submarine was a critical success. becoming a parent. Ray is twice thinking, ‘Is this life dedicated to Wild Abandon, the story of a brother the age of Dunthorne’s previous my own pleasure and my own ego and sister, Kate and Albert, who live protagonists, but The Adulterants is sustainable? Will I be happy just in a Welsh commune witnessing in essence another coming of age doing what I’m doing now until the disintegration of their parents’ novel. Ray is struggling with “the death?’ I was really interested marriage, followed in 2011. The transition from your twenties to in other people who chose to be critics liked that too. Two coming your thirties”, struggling to grow up. parents. All my friends who had of age stories, both set in Wales, It’s a short book, just 173 pages, become parents, I would interview both featuring child protagonists but the “comic romp” has taken them. Why have you done it? struggling to understand the Dunthorne six years to write. What does it feel like? Is it great actions of the adults in their lives. Perhaps because it is the author’s or is it horrible? It looks like it’s
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OS84.P40-43_LunchWith.indd 42 1/23/18 1:52 PM LUNCH WITH FACTS BEHIND THE FICTION How Joe Dunthorne writes
SUBMARINE Dunthorne wrote two versions of his debut novel before it was published in 2008. The first featured a teenager who’s a robot but doesn’t know it. It was “too high concept” but Oliver Tate shares certain character traits with the original protagonist. “I can see the through line,” says Dunthorne. “Emotional distance, lack of nuance and connection with other humans, a methodical approach to domestic life. Everything’s a scheme.”
WILD ABANDON When it came to writing his second novel, Dunthorne wanted to write about a world he had not experienced, but he did incorporate elements of his own life. “I was combining elements of my relationship with both my sisters in “In your twenties, you young thing to established writer, that brother-sister relationship between don’t even see children. husband and father with “bourgeois, Kate and Albert,” he says. “It was helpful People walking around embarrassing, meaningless because so much of the rest of the novel with these scream concerns” like house prices and was completely alien to me. There was boxes in prams are the 50 steps he has to climb to a huge research cave I had to enter so reach the apartment that just it really helped to be able to draw on a ghosts to you. They months ago was perfectly adequate personal character.” mean nothing” but suddenly seems so small. He tells me he is working THE ADULTERANTS on a script for a television “The big challenge kind of both. Which it is, right? adaptation of The Adulterants writing about someone Obviously you’re never ready, but and considering his next novel like Ray is how to then I did feel a little bit ready.” (either a historical comedy or get a reader to finish Six months ago Dunthorne’s something about parenthood). a book narrated by wife gave birth to a son. He is now The waitress comes to clear our somebody who is, a husband and a father. He has plates and Dunthorne asks if the on the surface, so become part of the adult world that leftovers can be boxed up for him hateable,” says Dunthorne. “I think that’s bewildered Oliver Tate and Kate to take home to his wife, who has the power of good jokes. Even when the and Albert. He is battling to finish been looking after their son while character seems extremely irritating the book he started at Christmas, he enjoys lunch in one of their and unforgivable, if he’s making you The Assistant by Robert Walser, favourite restaurants. “She loves laugh, whether he knows it or not, then but otherwise he seems happy the food here,” says Dunthorne. Joe hopefully the reader is carried along on with his own transition from bright Dunthorne is not Oliver Tate. that energy. That’s my aim.”
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OS84.P40-43_LunchWith.indd 43 1/23/18 3:50 PM This programme is offered outside Dubai and KHDA bears no responsibility for the programme C LU N
ART THEFT AND ROMANCE Do Jol has a rule for spe ial o asions if ou’re thin in of a in an effort don’t
I A E: P
As you can imagine, I was very pleased with myself. Unfortunately, when we checked into our room, it was the wrong one. There was no framed drawing on the wall. There was no huge bouquet of fl owers on the bed. There was nothing but “Welcome Mr and Mrs Jelly” on the television screen. I didn’t know what to do and I couldn’t tell her what had happened, as it would ruin my plan. I was stuck. I made an excuse and went down to the reception. It was a disaster. The amazing manager who had helped me organise the whole thing was now on leave and uncontactable. Nobody knew what room my framed drawing was in. I tried to use logic. I had booked a top-of-the-range room. There Valentine’s Day is a tricky together for a big meal, but this couldn’t be too many? I asked and one in the Joly household. time I wanted it to be special. In found that there were two similar I loathe days where you’re her youth she travelled the world to our own, so it had to be in one LO O LO O N N expected to behave in and did a series of really good of them. As things stood, one was some particular way. pencil drawings of Indonesian occupied, the other was free. I was I’m always in a bad mood on New life, so I got the originals from let into the unoccupied one: nothing. Year’s Eve and have a phobia of her mother in Canada and had So I knocked on the other door. being one of those couples sitting them professionally scanned There was muffl ed rap music from in a restaurant full of other couples and enlarged before being inside and after a while the door eating their meal silently while they professionally framed. I then got slowly opened to reveal a heavily desperately think of something to the hotel that we were staying in tattooed man, who was apparently say. I thrive on spontaneity. I like to hang one in our room. something big in Ukrainian rap doing things on a whim. My wife’s (who knew?). He spoke no English. birthday is in February and I often I tried for what seemed like an try and do a joint thing in between eternity to explain what I needed but the two dates. It doesn’t always he kept trying to shut the door. In the LO O work out. end, I’m ashamed to say I barged my Last year was a big birthday way past him, grabbed the framed for her. She specifi cally told me drawing off the wall and exited the that she didn’t want a big deal room. The Ukrapper just stared at made. I normally splash out on a me, presumably thinking me the nice present and get some friends world’s least subtle art thief.
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OS84.P45_Column.indd 45 1/23/18 1:53 PM idc.pdf 1 1/11/18 3:18 PM
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Zambian Government is looking for a Strategic Equity Partner for a majority stake in Indeni Petroleum Refinery Limited. For more details go to www.idc.co.zm , email [email protected] and Tel +260 211 843567/8, +260 967 773007 WELLNESS FEATURES WISH YOU WERE HEALTHIER? • REVOLUTION IN PARIS • WORD PERFECT
WELCOME TO YOU 2.0
How the wellness industry will make you new again. Turn over to hit reset
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OS84.P47-55_Wellness.indd 47 1/23/18 4:29 PM WELLNESS Wish You Were
OS84.P47-55_Wellness.indd 48 1/23/18 4:29 PM Wish You Were Healthier?
READ MORE ABOUT YOUR EXCITING GETAWAY PLAN
OS84.P47-55_Wellness.indd 49 1/23/18 4:29 PM 50 / OPEN SKIES
OS84.P47-55_Wellness.indd 50 1/23/18 4:29 PM Then welcome to the future of wellness travel
Pure oxygen tanks in the corridor, a cryosauna in the gym and a carefully prepared macrobiotic meal three times a day. This is the life of a modern-day wellness resort, where you’re weighed, measured and reset for the good life
WORDS: Andrew Nagy ILLUSTRATIONS: Janne Iivonen
It’s while sitting in what the answer is that I have, well, of
could be the whitest room sorts. Behind it all – and the reason on the planet that I begin I find myself sitting nervously in 0.4907° W 0.4907° ALICANTE 38.3460° N N 38.3460° to wonder about what the waiting room of SHA Wellness goes on in the wellness Clinic in eastern Spain – is one of industry. Like, really wonder. the largest and fastest-growing Seriously, it’s dazzling; the walls industries in the world. are white, the sofa: white, the floor: Wellness might appear to be a white. It isn’t restricted to the fixtures modern term, but its roots lie in and fittings either. The immaculately ancient medicine; from Ayurveda to groomed staff wear pristine white traditional Chinese medicine, Greek uniforms and appear in a constant medicine to organic farming. But state of ethereal glow. Everybody what began as alternative has now else, apart from me, floats around become seriously mainstream. The in impossibly fluffy white dressing Global Wellness Institute estimates gowns. It’s like the opening scene the industry’s current worth at from a light-hearted version of US$8.7 trillion, with wellness tourism One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest. accounting for roughly US$563 My only ally in all of this is a grey billion of it. It’s an industry that, (off-white?) contraption containing depending on who you speak to, three small test tubes filled with can offer anything from life-altering vividly coloured liquid. It’s an oxygen opportunities to vastly overpriced bar, apparently. Strange thoughts fill yoga mats. But whether you’re in or your mind in a room like this – have you’re out, there’s no denying that its I unwittingly joined a cult? being the success represents a seismic shift in main one currently in play. I suppose conventional wisdom.
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OS84.P47-55_Wellness.indd 51 1/23/18 4:29 PM with an industry that attracts burnt- utrition is at the core of the out A-listers and worn-out wealth philosophy here, and is based on managers by the bucket-load. founder Alfredo Bataller arietti ealistically, you could come successfully battling early stage here to deal with any problem – the colon cancer by virtue of a 360-degree programming offering macrobiotic diet. In his desire to then help with nutrition, fi tness, ageing, re- share his discovery with the world, education of habits (don’t open that the Argentinean real estate magnet bo ) and more. However, the growing established SHA on his Costa Blanca trend is for a retreat to specialise. estate. It’s now a family-run business. Yoga escape, detox clinic, eco-friendly he majority of wellness centres health resort, meditation centre, adopt a specifi c approach to eating. I think people are starting to take fi tness camp… the list is endless and And whether it’s style-based or health into their own hands, says r most will offer you an Instagram- portion-controlled, things can get Lanalle unn, founder of he Chiron perfect location and hunger pangs pretty dark pretty uick. With a Clinic in ubai. he old conventional through a luxury fi lter. stunning location in the Austrian Alps, ways of medicine and the attitude hankfully for me, SHA is of the ivamayr is world famous for both its that the doctor’s word is law’ is notion that you can push yourself success rates and its strict regime. rapidly becoming a thing of the past. as hard or as gently as you wish. Here, patients will consume a diet of eople are now very receptive to rogrammes range from the basic around 6 calories per day. hey’ll natural and functional medicine. It’s discovery package at US$ ,5 5, undergo blood super logical, really. to the 28-day life-reset package, at tests, stomach Although my own reasons for an eye-watering US$23,000. For O OR WAL S massages getting involved come under the unn, these lu ury retreats aren’t O TO THE AR and chewing guise of work, as a man recently necessarily about e treme lifestyle THE BEA H IT lessons (the turned I have to admit secretly changes, however. ather the ideal scenario hoping for revelation. he industry chance for you to reset. It’s really an INSTANTL MA ES is chewing might well be in rude health, but I, opportunity to rest, recuperate and OU EEL BETTER each mouthful unfortunately, am not. I get up in just get healthier, AND REALI NS 30-35 times). the morning and I ache. he energy she e plains. Both the 5: I had in my youth, to run and jump My time at SHA, as with most OUR RIORITIES fasting regime and climb trees is long gone, and my wellness centres, begins with and the alkaline diet is based on a carefully balanced an assessment. I’m weighed, plan allegedly gained fame here and e uation between eliveroo waiting measured and assessed. it was even the inspiration behind times and guilt levels. Conventional Eventually I receive a personal the Hoffler linik that featured in wisdom, particularly amongst men, is schedule – most days begin the ames Bond movie, ectre. to grin and bear it. In fact, don’t even at 7am and end with dinner at housands swear by its methods grin, just bear it. his is your lot. But in pm – a healthy habits calendar and return annually; others talk about the age of wellness, just how far can for the week, featuring a plan of it as a cautionary tale. you right wrongs? walks, classes, yoga sessions How about he anch Malibu? And so I fi nd myself in a and more, and a piece of paper Here you’ll embrace long days pictures ue spot amongst the Sierra featuring handwriting that only a of e ercise in the Santa Monica Helada Mountains, at a resort that pharmacist could decipher – I later Mountains, a small, plant-based gently nudges the shores of the Med. discover it to be a prescription for diet and a fee of about US$7,8 Befi tting its location, SHA appears probiotics and aloe vera. It’s all per week. hen there’s the Ashram more a fi ve-star resort than a place of uite reasonable until I’m given a in Calabasas that’s so strict that it health and well-being. Your stylishly diet to follow. he good news is I’m allegedly made ulia oberts run minimalist room has mountain views on the biggest food plan. he bad away and prah cry. and the terrace deck on the roof is news is that it’s ,5 calories per But as hard as these resorts as well appointed as any beach club day. That’s 1,000 less than the daily- undoubtedly can be, the reality of any you care to mention. It’s in keeping recommended amount. health change begins in the kitchen.
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We now live in a world where the uality of food has degraded to a shocking level, e plains unn. ver the past 6 years, the use of pesticides and herbicides have contributed hugely to the emergence of the label: organic. ur grandparents ate organic, of course, but back then it was just called food. Milk, eggs and meat free of hormones vegetables, grains and fruits all free of chemicals. Because the uality of our food is now so to ic, we live in a time where inflammation is an epidemic – and this is a precursor to every autoimmune disease out there. ou are what you eat is a truth. I’m not e pecting much as I make my way to the rooftop terrace for my fi rst meal at SHA, but here’s where being at a resort helps. If I’d been told to follow this diet at home, chances are I would have tried it for a day and then given up. But as I walk to my table, one offering a full view of the sun melting into the mountains, I’m feeling pretty good about it all. hen the food arrives. It’s small, that’s the take-home perhaps because most people message. But it’s also beautifully abandon all semblance of adult presented. It’s only a bowl of responsibility at places like this gazpacho soup, but it wouldn’t – distraction is the real secret to look out of place in a high-end overcoming hunger. restaurant. here’s always a soup our daily schedule means that course at SHA – even at breakfast you’ll have little time to think about ALICANTE – generally followed by a vegetarian CR OT ERA the rumbles in your stomach. ou’ll Start your day in dish, or fi sh if you’re really lucky, and the cryochamber either be walking along the beach, or then even a dessert. It’s genuinely before taking to the lighthouse, or perhaps trying tai breakfast with a tasty and, despite the size, the slow view of the Sierra chi or cookery classes. pace at which you’re encouraged elada ountains It’s hard not to be impressed by the to eat means you leave the table set-up, but here’s the rub: none of this feeling satisfi ed. Before I head back is real. Unless you’re in the one per to my room for the night, I spare a cent, perhaps – the resort’s helipad moment for those here on the ushi SIE A E A A, A I ANTE and vast royal suite is testimony J NE-A ST diet – 7 daily calories named OW 43° / I 6 ° to the fact that there are plenty of after the apanese dietician who T E SIE A E A A NATIONA PA K those here. But for everybody else, popularised macrobiotics. I take maintaining this lifestyle is tough. ooking to try some meditation, gentle a drink of the delicious apple and exercises or even help to fall asleep on today’s nce you’re not being served your cinnamon tea in their honour. flight heck out the ealth elaxation section in delicious morsels in a pictures ue usic s on ice for a range of great programmes. Like dealing with children – setting three times a day, it all
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OS84.P47-55_Wellness.indd 53 1/23/18 4:29 PM becomes a bit tricky. he juicing, the planning, the prep it’s just not realistic, and a big reason behind the fact that two out of fi ve people on a new diet ditch it within the week. If food is the fi rst pillar of any EIN self-respecting wellness resort, then RESENT it’s closely followed by fi tness. As an adult you simply stop moving. You’re F ve ways to a product of bad habits, bad posture, ract ce wellness and bad decisions, and by the time r ht now you hit your body is furiously trying to work out which part of you ead these simple steps by Cindy hurts the most. Stocken at Mindful ME, and then If you check in to a place called the give yourself as long as you need to close your eyes and move E treme Hotel, you should be under through the list. When you notice no illusions as to what you’re signing your attention drifting, come back up for. on’t let the fact that their to focusing on your breath. E treme itness Camp is at an eco- SITTIN U STRAI T gives friendly, solar-powered beachfront you space to breathe, so have a hotel in the ominican epublic fool small stretch and then settle into you; you’re there to work. ariety – an upright seat with your hands and intensity – is the key here, so rela ed and open on your legs. you could wind up trying anything ENTL CLOSE your eyes and from kickbo ing to trapeze work to soften the muscles in your face. salsa (yes, salsa). You’ll leave with ilates. here are certainly worse a new sense of vigour, fi tness and, things to try than yoga on a rooftop A ATTENTION to your inhalation and e halation, presumably, rhythm. terrace in an early summer’s evening, noticing the temperature Should you prefer something a and I come away moving better than change between them. little more immersive, how about I have in months. It’s not all plain
LISTEN TO ALL T E sounds Mountain rek in British Columbia? sailing, of course. It’s unlikely that around you – if you’re on a plane his aims to help you gain strength, there’ll ever come a time when I can notice the engine noise, the chatter, improve sleep and lower stress by chant the word om (signalling the people moving down the aisle, the walking in the mountains. or those beginning and end of a class) with noise escaping your neighbours’ headphones, counting each one with a reasonable level of fi tness it’s any level of seriousness or comfort. as you move from as far away as by no means an e treme camp; the But it’s not simply physical possible to as close to the sound toughest part is probably when the healing at play here; it’s spiritual, of your own breath (or even your staff turn off the Wi-Fi in the evening too. Yoga is proven to help with heartbeat). otice how you can turn the volume up and down to help you get better uality-sleep. an iety and depression; it can using your awareness (what you Back at SHA, I’m put through a boost memory and concentration, pay attention to sounds louder). decent workout in the small, but and even help deal with the well-e uipped, gym before sweating effects of traumatic e periences NOTICE OW your body feels as your breath naturally slows down. through a cookery lesson – more a – the American Psychological MI ULME.C M case of tight scheduling as opposed Association claims that Hatha to fi tness levels, hopefully – but the yoga has been effective in reducing majority of time is spent on yoga and symptoms of S .
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OS84.P47-55_Wellness.indd 54 1/23/18 4:29 PM ITNESS o boxing or running through the forest followed by massage therapy sessions to recover
“From letting go and arriving in the present moment, to resting in the quiet space, learning and growing their understanding of living mindfully and bringing a sense of calm to their lives as they return home.” As I prepare to leave after four days at SHA, I have to admit to feeling good. The diet has left me wanting to fi x or improve something more active. I sleep better, my eyes that has already happened – or even are brighter and my thoughts more worry about what happens next.” clear. Maintaining the diet will be At SHA there are daily tough, but the lessons learned are meditation sessions, mindfulness valuable. However, it’s the idea of lessons and even stress living in the moment that really management classes – if you resonates. Wellness resorts might don’t mind paying the US$210 well be a way to travel the world extra. Elsewhere you can go from while hitting reset, offering out-there a meditation cave and shrine treatments and, often, helping with room at Vana Malsi Estate in serious illness, too, but the key to Uttarakhand in India, to a stylish a calm and happy life is something celebrity haunt such as the you can practise anywhere. At the US$1,100 per night Amangiri in risk of sounding like the moral A mindful reset is one of the Utah, US. If you want to really get message of a ’90s American sitcom biggest reasons people seek out a to grips with your inner voice, then epilogue, it’s about how you act as a trip to a wellness resort, and while perhaps try human being. it often seems like mindfulness is THE OLD the St Francis “This type of emotional health is here solely to fuel the countless Retreat Centre about feeling a purpose in life,” says memes that clog your Instagram ON ENTIONAL WA S at Mepkin Dunn. “You’re a member of your feed, it’s actually an ancient wisdom O MEDI INE AND Abbey in South community, you give back to others, that was popularised by the work of THE ATTITUDE THAT Carolina. Here you’re connected to family, friends, Jon Kabat-Zinn in the late 1970s. you can mix with your professional community, your “One of our favourite defi nitions THE DO TOR S WORD Trappist monks extended community and every of mindfulness is from meditation IS LAW IS RA IDL on a month-long other human on the planet. It also teacher James Baraz,” explains BE OMIN A THIN progamme of means that you’re connected to Cindy Stocken at Mindful ME in assigned work the environment around you… go Dubai. “He describes it as ‘simply O THE AST and observed for walks; go to the park, the beach. being aware of what’s happening silence, all for a It instantly makes you feel better right now, without wishing it were suggested donation fee of around and realigns your priorities. Reduce different’. That’s great because US$60 per night. fast foods, eat more vegetables, do it reminds us that when we truly While mindfulness is just a small something you enjoy and be more acknowledge what’s happening, part of my experience at SHA, conscious about smiling. Believe me, we can compassionately accept it Stocken believes that a retreat should it will make you happier.” As rules to and begin where we are, instead of guide participants on a journey. live by go, they’re not too bad.
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OS84.P47-55_Wellness.indd 55 1/23/18 4:29 PM Revolution in Paris WORDS AND MAIN IMAGE: Geoff Brokate IMAGES: Marilyn Stafford
The photography of Marilyn Stafford lay largely unnoticed for 30 years, an amazing thought when you consider Albert Einstein and Édith Piaf were among her subjects. But with fashion weeks around the world set for this month, we feature the images that portrayed a seismic shift in the life and styles of women around the world
OS84.P56-61_FashionWeek.indd 56 1/23/18 4:40 PM OS84.P56-61_FashionWeek.indd 57 1/23/18 4:40 PM Marilyn Stafford’s legendary photographer
photographs Henri Cartier-Bresson, the depict a time when man who pioneered candid PARIS 2.3522 E 2.3522
48.8566 N 48.8566 celebrity culture street photography. Cartier- was finding its Bresson took her under his feet and fashion was shifting wing, providing Stafford with a from elegant styling for the priceless mentorship. privileged few to ready-to-wear The beauty of her work was clothing for all. to fuse changing fashions with Born in Cleveland, Ohio, changing attitudes. During the in 1925, her photographic 1950s, Parisian high fashion career began in New York in was set aside for the wealthy 1948, in surprisingly grand elite and featured stunning style, when friends making pieces shot in glamorous the fashion industry. She went a documentary film about locations. But Stafford to work documenting the birth Albert Einstein asked if she recognised the shift towards of British counter-culture, would come along and take ready-to-wear and department where life was transformed some shots of him. Stafford’s store garments, freeing the and pop culture born. friends taught her how to use models from the confines of Stafford’s photographic their 35mm reflex camera in the studios and fashion shows career wasn’t simply confined the back of the car. and shooting them on the to fashion and portraiture While happy with her work streets of Paris. either. Believing herself to be that day, photography was By the mid-1960s she found more of a documentary-style never Stafford’s first love. herself in London, where the photographer, she travelled the To her mind, her only career counter-culture movement world covering humanitarian was as a performer, and she was having a huge impact on issues and raising awareness. had soon moved to Paris, During the 1950s and ’60s, finding work as a singer. she highlighted the plight of Unfortunately, it was a short- Algerian refugees as well as of lived dream, and with her “I REMEMBER ONE WOMAN life in Lebanon. voice damaged while working WAS PUSHED TO THE Now 92, Stafford is at the Chez Carrère dinner GROUND OUTSIDE THE dedicated to making the club, she was left to consider photography world a more fair photography as a rather more SHOW, THE TICKET WAS and equal place for female serious option. SNATCHED FROM HER photographers, and has Thankfully, Stafford had HAND AND THEY JUST launched the Marilyn Stafford a knack of being in the right FotoReportage Award, which place at the right time, and CALMLY WALKED IN ON HER funds women photographers while in Paris she met the TICKET. IT WAS BRUTAL” to document the major social or environmental issues of our times. “I have always felt that TALKING FASHION PARIS photography is a medium Know your label to help make the world a BRAND PRONUNCIATION better place rather than a HERMÉS “err-mez” way to earn a living,” she YVES SAINT LAURENT “eve-san-law-run” says. “Wherever possible I
GIVENCHY “ji-vaughn-she” have tried to take the kind of
CARTIER “car-tee-yay” photographs that would bring Emirates offers 20 weekly people’s attention to issues MOSCHINO “moss-kino” A380 flights to Paris. and, possibly, show solutions.”
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OS84.P56-61_FashionWeek.indd 58 1/23/18 4:40 PM REVOLUTION IN PARIS
Édith Piaf “Soon after arriving in Paris in the early 1950s, I found a job singing with a small music ensemble at Chez Carrere, an exclusive dinner club off the Champs- Élysées. It was the only club that Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip had been permitted to attend while on an earlier visit to Paris. I was joined on stage by a male American singer who soon became the beau of Piaf. Each night after her performance at a theatre nearby she came to collect him, accompanied by an entourage of friends. I was invited to join them and spent many hours in her company. As I was not yet a working photographer, these few pictures are memories of that lovely yet unpredictable time. “I had never thought of taking photographs of Piaf. I doubt she would have agreed to it if I had. However, one day we all went together to The Grand Hotel for tea and I ended up taking some photos of her. It was very spur of the moment and I think that’s why it happened. I wasn’t really thinking as a photographer as I pressed the shutter but I have it all anyway – it’s in my memory.”
In front of a Louvre sign “This photograph was taken at a bus stop. I wanted a background that represented Paris and the reference to the Louvre does that. The model is wearing a garment that was referred to as The Little Chanel Suit. Chanel is very famous for liberating woman’s bodies from the restrictive clothing that had gone before. This skirt, instead of being very tight, was slightly flared, so you could walk in it. If you look at the model she is standing in a very artificial way, women don’t stand like that, but she knows her craft and she’s trying to show you the qualities and some details of the garment. “The work was very demanding, I worked long hours. After the shoots I had to go to the labs to develop the negatives into the night to send out to editors who were expecting the photos the next day. At times I had to send them by plane, I would have to drive out to the airport for an overnight delivery. “Covering a fashion show can be like a war zone. The reason for that is people will kill each other to get in. I remember one woman who worked for The New York Times, she was pushed down at the entrance, with her ticket in her hand. While she was lying on the ground somebody came and snatched the ticket from her and just went in with it. I mean, it’s brutal.”
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With children in Montmartre “I’m oriented toward documentary photography and I love the streets of Paris, so I thought let’s take the model and her clothes into the street and photograph them in the places I love. “This photograph simply started as a street scene as I liked this sign in Montmartre. I wasn’t thinking consciously that I was going to use children in this shot, but before long they came over as they were curious and wanted to see what was going on. They were open and playful and naturally began interacting with the model. I just went with it. “This was the ’50s and we didn’t have a crew with stylists and make-up, just the model and me. It was very down to earth. The model would get dressed and put on her own make- up before we left. “You don’t have to take fashion so seriously, although you can’t say that explicitly because it’s big business. As far as I’m concerned I’m playing around with the seriousness of fashion. That’s why I took the clothes from the studios and fashion shows to bring it out onto the street, where it belonged.”
Joanna Lumley “London throughout the 1960s was an interesting period for clothing. I think of Mary Quant, Vidal Sassoon and other young designers who were creating wonderful new clothes. There was the mini- skirt, of course, bobbed hair and people were walking around in jeans. Traditional formality had simply been swept away. “My aesthetic was grainy black and white images because I didn’t have lights or flash. I think it gives a certain feeling and mood, that’s what made my work stand out. “This photo came about as I was working for a very large New York fashion paper and the story was on one of England’s most import fashion designers, Jean Muir. The paper was doing an article on Muir and her new collection. At that time Joanna Lumley was one of Muir’s best house models. Lumley was young, beautiful and easy to photograph. She went on to become a very successful British actress and has stood up for many humanitarian causes. She continues to inspire – and is still very beautiful.”
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Biba “Biba began as a tiny boutique in Kensington owned by Barbara Hulanicki and her brand went on to become an important symbol of swinging London. Biba is well known for beautiful clothes and were one of the first to make designer clothes accessible to the public. They eventually opened up a huge department store on Kensington High Street and the interior was spectacular. It was Art Nouveau décor with added psychedelic wallpaper. “I adore this photo, it’s my all-time favourite. So much is happening that you actually have to take the time to look at it in order to see the different aspects. The model is in the foreground wearing her designer clothes with a coat that blends into the wall perfectly. In the mirror is reflected another model, she’s wearing a brown lace dress that Biba was famous for. Meanwhile, two dogs are asleep on one of the designer garments Twiggy surrounded by chaos. In the background there is a “By the late 1960s Twiggy had become a very bored sales girl with an ironing board, smoking a British cultural icon and was landing covers cigarette. I guess it reveals some of the truth behind the for all the major fashion magazines. If I glossy image of the fashion industry.” remember correctly, in 1967 she was voted British Woman of the Year. She went on to try acting, singing and even fashion design but in the end she is remembered not for what she did but for who she was. “Twiggy (real name Lesley Lawson) was very sweet and young, like a little kitten. She had big eyelashes and was wafer thin. She set a precedent for contemporary supermodels and was a forerunner of the androgynous look that is so popular now. She was incredible at promoting herself. Now we are used to women putting themselves into the limelight with people like the Kardashians and Paris Hilton, but at the time she was a totally new sensation. “This photo was taken at a press call in a workroom at a fashion house in London. She was giving interviews about Twiggy being Twiggy. There were a lot of photographers there and I was sitting on the floor, being crushed among the other photographers. That’s why that shot was taken from a low angle.”
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OS84.P62-67_MelbourneBooks.indd 62 1/23/18 1:55 PM How to navigate the streets of Melbourne using its bookstore brilliance (and lots of coffee)
WORDS: Michael Harden IMAGES: Vincent Long
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OS84.P62-67_MelbourneBooks.indd 63 1/23/18 4:49 PM Melbourne is a city in love with words. Anointed a Unesco City THE PAPERBACK BOOKSHOP of Literature in 2008, it has the beautifully small haven for bibliophiles, The Paperback 37.8136° S S 37.8136° 144.9631° E 144.9631° MELBOURNE largest number of bookstores is also a great example of the timelessness of clever in Australia and is home to design. The compact shop opened in the 1950s with two-thirds of the country’s independent a fit-out created by the original owner’s husband, an publishing industry. It also has the oldest architect. The design – all whitewashed brick walls and public library and the highest concentration dark timber shelving – is virtually unchanged nearly 70 of community book clubs in the nation and, years later and it’s fascinating how, in a shop this small, the placement and unsurprisingly, the highest consumption structure of the shelves allows space for around 7,000 books and for several per capita of books, magazines and nooks and crannies that afford peaceful browsing. newspapers in Australia. Current owner Rosie Morton has owned the shop since the mid-’90s and “There is a strong bookishness about her brother Bill is the manager. The size of the place, he says, is integral to Melbourne and that’s underlined by the selection of books on the shelves here. the number of quirky, subject-unusual “We cater to the dedicated well-read reader, the kind of people who independent bookstores we have,” says really love their books,” says Bill. “We are extremely careful about how we Tim White, president of the Australian choose our stock because we have such a small space, so we’re not really Booksellers Association and owner of appealing to the mass market simply because we don’t have room for it.” Melbourne culinary specialist store Books There is a Tardis-like quality to The Paperback – comprehensive for Cooks. “Books and literature represent classics and poetry sections, the back catalogue of well-known authors as a particular cultural thread that holds well as their current releases, books of biography, politics and sociology Melbourne together.” imported from the US and the UK, even tiny, beautifully curated sections of Off-beat, specialist, committed children’s and cook books. and amazingly diverse, Melbourne’s But it’s the intimacy of this shop, the personal, hands-on feel of the bookstores offer real insight into what selection that is the draw here; its own little world, lined with books. makes the city tick. 60 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE | +613 9662 1396 | PAPERBACKBOOKS.COM.AU
“BECAUSE WE HAVE SUCH A SMALL SPACE, POST-BROWSING WE HAVE TO CHOOSE PIT STOP: STOCK CAREFULLY. PELLEGRINI’S SO WE CATER TO THE DEDICATED WELL-READ READER, THE KIND OF PEOPLE WHO REALLY LOVE THEIR BOOKS”
One of Melbourne’s original espresso bars, Pellegrini’s has been dishing up coffee, panini and lasagne since the 1950s. 60 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE | +613 9662 1396
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“THE CONDITION HAS TO BE GOOD, EVEN WITH RARE BOOKS. WE GO THROUGH EVERY PAGE OF EVERY BOOK AND THAT SETS US APART. AND I LOVE THE BOOKS I STOCK – EVEN WHEN THEY’RE NOT VALUABLE. I STILL GET EXCITED BY PEOPLE’S COLLECTIONS”
KAY CRADDOCK ANTIQUARIAN BOOKSELLER
here’s something POST-BROWSING to Australia, or rare books of military history, distinctly Harry Potter- PIT STOP: NEAPOLI poetry and children’s stories. esque about Kay Books here have been sold for US$200,000. Craddock’s gorgeous But a four-dollar tray has also been a long- second-hand and standing feature. Anyone who loves books is antique bookstore. welcome here. The space helps – a semi basement in Craddock started the business as a the neo-gothic Assembly Hall building on second-hand store with her parents in 1965 Melbourne’s prestigious Collins Street – but then refined her focus to books before as do the owls, nearly 1,000 of them in moving to Collins Street in 1990. The store all shapes, sizes and colours, sitting on became renowned internationally and shelves or in the glass display cabinets people approach her with their valuable book A stylish two-level café and bar serving an massed on rafters. Classical music excellent coffee, cold-pressed juices and a collections. She’s happy to stock anything, as plays quietly, the floors are carpeted, range of super-healthy, really tasty salads. long as she likes it and it’s in good condition. 30 RUSSELL PLACE, MELBOURNE | the shop assistants are well-dressed and +613 9650 5020 “We treat all the books with the same well-spoken. respect – that, perhaps, is the secret to our But it’s when you start to browse that the success,” she says. “The condition has to be magic really happens. There might be a book good, even with rare books. We go through of photos by Michael Cooper of rock stars every page of every book and that sets us in the 1960s and ’70s, signed by the artists apart. And I love the books I stock – even themselves – the Rolling Stones, Leonard when they’re not valuable. I still get excited by Cohen, Carly Simon, Marianne Faithful. Or people’s collections.” perhaps a collection of literature that arrived 156 COLLINS ST, MELBOURNE | +613 9654 8506 | on one of the first English ships that came KAYCRADDOCK.COM
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OS84.P62-67_MelbourneBooks.indd 65 1/23/18 1:56 PM THE LITTLE BOOKROOM
“I SEE THE SHOP AS BEING A COMMUNITY HUB… A THIRD PLACE BETWEEN HOME AND WORK AND HOME AND SCHOOL, WHERE PEOPLE CAN COME AND HANG OUT AND SHARE OUR PASSION FOR BOOKS”
he Little Bookroom POST-BROWSING “is pretty easy to manage in Melbourne has been selling PIT STOP: because there are six local independent children’s books since BABAJAN publishers producing hardcover picture 1960, which makes it, books, so we have a range here that you according to current won’t find anywhere else in the world.” owner Leesa Lambert, The store also acts as a kind of meeting “definitely the oldest place for parents and kids with a section children’s book store in Australia but of the store set aside for regular story- perhaps also in the world too, we think”. telling events. Originally opened in Melbourne’s CBD, “I think of the shop as being a the store recently moved to the inner-city community hub, a third place between suburb of Carlton but took all the original home and work and home and school, shelving and furniture with it, neatly where people come and hang out and we A modern Turkish café and bakery preserving the link to its history. serving excellent pastries, salads can share our passion for books and our It still does what it’s been doing since and good coffee. love of reading,” says Leesa. “We don’t 713 NICHOLSON STREET, day one – selling books for children CARLTON NORTH | +613 9388 9814 think of ourselves as selling stuff, we think aged 0-12 – though it does stock some of ourselves as matching kids with books YA fiction and a small section of adult and helping people find gifts that are going books to give the parents something to to keep giving.” browse as the kids make a selection. There’s an emphasis on local authors 759 NICHOLSON STREET, CARLTON NORTH. | +613 and illustrators, something Leesa says 9387 9837 | LITTLEBOOKROOM.COM.AU
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A stylish two-level cafe and bar serving an excellent coffee, cold pressed juices and a range of super healthy, super tasty salads. 30 RUSSELL PLACE, MELBOURNE. | +613 9650 5020 WORD PERFECT
MELBOURNE READINGS
eadings is the on a street that had become the centre of largest independent bohemian and artistic life in Melbourne bookseller in in the mid-’70s, Readings was ideally Australia with seven placed amidst a crowd hungry for new stores in Melbourne. voices. It has stuck diligently to its mission The original store in statement, and now even runs an annual Emirates offers three daily Lygon Street is its spiritual home. writing prize with three awards for new flights to Melbourne. Choose from two non-stop services, Mark Rubbo has owned Readings since Australian fiction, young adult fiction and and a third service that stops in 1976. He worked for the original owners children’s fiction. Singapore. and bought the store from them at a The Lygon Street store boasts an time when Australian publishing was in expansive collection of Australian fiction the throes of a renaissance. “I think our and non-fiction writing, but it also stocks success is due to the fact that we started an expertly curated selection of music when Australian publishing started, when (including an expanding vinyl section) people wanted to read about Australian and movies, hefty poetry, philosophy and stories told in Australian voices,” he says. history sections, and a strong selection of “It was always my vision that Readings cookbooks. should be integral to that, so we’ve “We do the things we like,” says become embedded in the promotion of Rubbo. “It’s how we stay part of the Australian writing and publishing, with community.” deep roots in that culture and society.” Located a couple of blocks away from 309 LYGON STREET, CARLTON. +613 9347 6633 the University of Melbourne and situated READINGS.COM.AU
“IT WAS ALWAYS MY VISION THAT POST-BROWSING READINGS SHOULD PIT STOP: BECOME EMBEDDED IN BRUNETTI THE PROMOTION OF AUSTRALIAN WRITING AND PUBLISHING, WITH DEEP ROOTS IN THAT CULTURE”
A Melbourne icon, Brunetti is a Roman-style coffee and pastry behemoth that operates from breakfast through to supper every day. LYGON COURT, 380 LYGON STREET CARLTON. | +613 9347 2801
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NEWS • INSIDEBRIEFING EMIRATES • DESTINATION • VISA • UAE SMART GATE • ROUTE MAP • FLEET
HIGH-FLYING Turn your boarding pass into a discount card and see the best Dubai has to offer.
Turn over for more news from Emirates
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OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 69 1/23/18 1:57 PM NEWS Explore Dubai with My Emirates Pass EMIRATES IS EXTENDING its popular My Emirates Pass programme to customers visiting Dubai between now and the end of March. The programme grants exclusive offers and discounts across the city by enabling customers to turn their Emirates boarding pass into an exclusive membership card. Those flying to or through Dubai until March 31 can take advantage of a range of offers at some of the city’s best known hotspots by simply showing their boarding pass (local terms and conditions apply) and a valid form of their identification. After that, they can enjoy special discounts at more than 250 restaurants and hotel dining outlets in the city, as well as exclusive offers on a range of leisure activities. “Dubai is one of the world’s most vibrant cities, with a diverse range of experiences to suit everyone and keep travellers returning time and time again,” said Mohammad Al Hashimi, Vice President, Commercial Products Dubai, Emirates. “This year, we’ve doubled the number of partners in the My Emirates Pass programme to give our customers more options and even better value on their visit. Whether it’s your first time in Dubai or a return trip, there is always something new to explore.” New daily route to London Stansted EMIRATES IS TO launch a new daily our commitment to serve London, route from Dubai to London Stansted with operations soon to three different in June 2018. airports in the city,” said Sir Tim Clark, With its strategic position close to the President of Emirates. tech and pharma hubs of Cambridge “There is a clear demand for this and Peterborough, Emirates will be the service from both business and leisure first Middle East airline to operate out of travellers and we anticipate that this the northeast London airport, with the news will be warmly received both service starting on June 8. across our global network, as well as The daily route will be operated by by the business community based the airline’s new three-class Boeing 777- in the Stansted catchment area. We 300ER – featuring refreshed interiors look forward to facilitating even more and a new First Class cabin layout – tourism and commerce opportunities boosting Emirates’ daily flight service to and from London with these new air connecting Dubai and London to ten. transport links, and to providing our “The introduction of the new London customers with the award-winning Stansted-Dubai service underscores Emirates experience.”
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OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 70 1/23/18 1:57 PM NEWS New flights on flydubai codeshare Historic agreement
EMIRATES’ CODESHARE with flydubai The partnership initially began with between Emirates is to offer travellers even more codeshare flights to 29 cities, and Group Security connectivity, thanks to new flights to this has quickly expanded to meet Krakow and Catania. The new codeshare demand as customers realise the and Etihad flights to Poland will commence on benefits of increased flight frequencies, Aviation Group April 8 and to Italy from June 13. expanded access to global destinations Both Dubai-based airlines currently on a single ticket, the convenience of offer customers a breadth of travel checking in their baggage through to options across their complementary the final destination, smooth transfers networks, with codeshares to 81 during transit in Dubai and more. destinations and more to follow. In the two months since the first codeshare flights took off on October 29, over 165,000 passengers have benefitted from the partnership. Emirates and flydubai will continue to offer travel experiences reflecting their individual brands. For EMIRATES GROUP SECURITY and bookings under the codeshare, Etihad Aviation Group have signed a Emirates passengers will receive memorandum of understanding for complimentary meals and the cooperation in aviation security. Emirates checked baggage allowance The historic agreement, the first on flights operated by flydubai in between the UAE’s two world-leading Business and Economy class. airlines, signals the importance of closer collaboration to enhance efficiency and security for the Emirates SkyCargo introduces benefit of both groups’ customers. The memorandum was signed by pharma corridors Sir Tim Clark, President, Emirates, and Tony Douglas, Group Chief Executive EMIRATES SKYCARGO, the freight Officer of Etihad Aviation Group, in division of Emirates, has increased the presence of His Highness Sheikh its commitment to securely transport Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, temperature-sensitive pharmaceutical Chairman and Chief Executive, shipments with the introduction of Emirates Airline and Group, His pharma corridors covering select Excellency Hamad Abdulla Al Shamsi, destinations in its global network. Vice Chairman, Etihad Aviation Having worked with ground handling Group, and senior representatives partners and other stakeholders at from Emirates Group Security, Etihad 12 destinations. Emirates SkyCargo Aviation Group, and Transguard at the ensured that handling operations Emirates Group Headquarters in Dubai. for pharmaceuticals are uniform “Over the years, Emirates Group and comply not only with Emirates President, Cargo. “We realised that it Security has built strong expertise and SkyCargo’s stringent norms for pharma was essential to work with our partners capabilities to successfully navigate transport, but also with either EU on the ground at the various stations the complex landscape of security risks Good Distribution Practices or IATA in order to ensure that pharmaceutical and threats in aviation,” said HH Sheikh Centre of Excellence for Independent cargo travels under the best conditions, Ahmed. “Through this agreement, Validators pharma guidelines. not only through our state-of-the-art Emirates Group Security and Transguard “As a customer-focused organisation, facilities in Dubai and when on board will collaborate with Etihad Aviation we have been listening to feedback our modern aircraft, but right from the Group to share know-how and extend from stakeholders in the global point the cargo gets dropped off at the aviation security services in order to pharmaceutical industry,” said Nabil origin airport until it is collected at the better handle shared challenges, which Sultan, Emirates Divisional Senior Vice destination airport.” ultimately benefits travellers.”
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OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 71 1/23/18 1:57 PM Upgrade your airline Just some of the reasons why Emirates Economy Class is the best in the world
ENJOY UP TO 3,000 YOUNG FLYERS GET CHANNELS OF INFLIGHT SPECIAL ATTENTION ENTERTAINMENT WHEN ON BOARD Featuring live TV (on There’s priority boarding select aircraft), loads for families, dedicated of music, podcasts, children’s inflight audio books, and the entertainment, exclusive widest selection of world travel-themed bags, and movies and music on the books from Lonely Planet largest personal screens Kids. A selection of meals in the industry at 13.3 also come in specially inches. designed snack boxes.
WORLD-CLASS YOU’RE NOW ENTERING SERVICE A WI-FI ZONE A multilingual cabin crew Everyone gets 20mb free speaks more than 60 Wi-Fi on board – unless languages and comes you’re an Emirates from more than 135 Skywards Gold or Platinum nationalities. member in Economy… then it’s unlimited free Wi-Fi.
YOU’LL GET AMENITY THE CHANCE TO KICK KITS PACKED WITH BACK AND RELAX IS TRAVEL ESSENTIALS NEVER FAR AWAY Six new kits inspired by You can enjoy Expo 2020 include all complimentary wines, you’ll need – from an eye spirits and cocktails mask to a toothbrush. throughout your flight.
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OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 72 1/23/18 1:57 PM INSIDE EMIRATES
USE THE SOFT AND REGIONALLY INSPIRED WARM ECOTHREAD™ MEALS BY EMIRATES’ BLANKETS MASTER CHEFS Emirates’ newly Emirates serves more introduced Economy than 110 million meals Class blanket is a year, with fresh made from patented ingredients courtesy ecoTHREAD™. Each of long-standing global blanket has 28 300ml partnerships and through recycled plastic bottles support of local suppliers woven into the fabric. and artisans.
YOU’LL HAVE TO WORK THOSE WHO LOVE TO HARD TO OVERPACK TEXT CAN REST EASY You’ve got a free baggage Stay connected with allowance of up mobile phone and data to 35kg. roaming services.
IF YOU’RE LOOKING TO FRESHEN UP SNACK, YOU’RE REALLY Emirates Skywards Blue IN LUCK members enjoy pay-per- Still hungry after a meal? entry access to its global Grab one of the tasty network of lounges. Pay- light bites available per-entry access in Dubai throughout the flight. is available to all.
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OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 73 1/23/18 1:57 PM CHRISTCHURCH Emirates flies daily to Christchurch (via Sydney) with the A380, so enjoy our guide to this smartly emerging city
CHRISTCHURCH IS A city in transition. The largest population centre on New Zealand’s South Island, it’s in the midst of a long process of reconstruction. Now a new Christchurch is emerging. One that is a vibrant, ever-changing destination that thrives on urban regeneration and creativity. An example of that can be found in the Cardboard Cathedral, designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. ‘Transitional’ in nature, it was built to compensate for the temporary loss of Christchurch Cathedral. Then there’s the Container Mall, built from colourful shipping containers, and the wealth of sustainable buildings that have transformed the city, which is nestled serenely around the River Avon. In essence, street art, a booming hospitality scene and state-of-the-art architecture are changing the way the city looks, feels and functions. Christchurch remains, however, very much a garden city. Its Botanic Gardens, Mona Vale and Hagley Park have helped sustain that reputation. It also remains a gateway to the wider Canterbury region and the rest of South Island, with all its snow- capped peaks, waterfalls, glaciers and lakes.
EK412 departs Dubai at 10:15 hours, connecting with southbound services from European destinations such as Amsterdam, Barcelona, London, Manchester and many more of Emirates’ Europe services. EK412 makes a brief stop in Sydney before arriving in Christchurch at 13:50 hours the next day (local time). The return flight EK413 departs Christchurch at 18:45 hours, and arrives in Dubai at 05:15 hours the next day after its stop in Sydney.
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OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 74 1/23/18 1:57 PM DESTINATI N
T E T SE E STE S R TS ATHERI S Situated up – yes, If you fancy exploring, Serving modern you’ve guessed it – 27 it’s worth travelling bistro-style cuisine, steps off picturesque the 12km to Lyttelton Gatherings – or New Regent Street, to experience one of Gatherings Restaurant this popular modern the country’s finest and Living Wine Bar, European restaurant restaurants. Award- to give it its full name spans four shop fronts winning, with an – is the brainchild and favours locally- open kitchen, two of chef Alex Davies. sourced seasonal dining rooms and a With a focus on ingredients. Run by courtyard situated in a sustainable, local and Emma Mettrick and private garden, Roots seasonal food, it offers Paul Howell, expect offers innovative a daily set menu of hearty, flavoursome seasonal degustation five courses. Expect meals that require no menus crafted from the likes of beetroot explanation. the highest quality gazpacho with cherries twentysevensteps. ingredients. and goat cheese. co.nz rootsrestaurant.co.nz gatherings.co.nz
THE E R E HERITA E H TE TREA A small but luxurious CHRISTCHURCH This is Christchurch’s boutique hotel, The Formerly a local newest luxury George survived government building hotel, and what the Christchurch’s recent constructed in a grand Montreal lacks in history unscathed Italian palazzo style, glamour it certainly and for a brief the Heritage is a makes up for in period was the only sumptuous affair with contemporary style operational hotel a sweeping central and European flair. in the city’s central staircase and Cathedral Also overlooking business district. Square location. Hagley Park and the Overlooking Hagley Originally designed by River Avon, it opened Park and the River Joseph Clark Maddison in 2014 and offers Avon, it is a short walk and opened in 1913, 26 spacious suites, from the city centre it is a regular winner relaxation, great food, and has 53 modern of awards. Expect fine lawns and a and spacious rooms. opulence and luxury. sheltered courtyard. thegeorge.com heritagehotels.co.nz hotelmontreal.co.nz
TA IC AR E S CHRISTCHURCH ART TRA A I E Arguably the best A ER TE U A If you have the attraction in the AI HETU time then it’s well city, the Botanic Reopened in 2015 worth catching Gardens were founded after almost five the Tranzalpine in 1863 with the years, the gallery is train south from planting of a solitary known as much for Christchurch to English oak tree. its architecture as its Greymouth. The line is Since then it has been art. It has a wavy glass 223km long and winds transformed into an facade inspired by the its way through some elegantly cultivated Avon and the shape of of the most beautiful 21-hectare park, with the native koru fern. scenery in the world, more than 10 different Bill Culbert’s Bebop crossing four viaducts gardens framed by installation is a new and travelling through mature trees and acquisition. 16 tunnels en route. expansive lawns. christchurchartgallery. greatjourneysofnz. ccc.govt.nz org.nz co.nz
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OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 75 1/23/18 1:57 PM COMFORT
Comfort in the air To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.
Smart Traveller
DRINK PLENTY TRAVEL WEAR USE SKIN KEEP MAKE SHARPS OF WATER LIGHTLY GLASSES MOISTURISER MOVING YOURSELF BOXES Rehydrate Carry only Cabin air is Apply a Exercise COMFORTABLE Sharps boxes with water the essential drier than good quality your lower Loosen are available or juices items that normal, moisturiser to legs and calf clothing, onboard all frequently. you will therefore ensure your muscles. This remove Emirates flights Drink tea need during swap your skin doesn’t encourages jacket for safe disposal and coffee in your flight. contact dry out. blood flow. and avoid of medical moderation. lenses for anything equipment. glasses. pressing Please ask a against member of your body. your cabin crew for more information.
BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY AT THE AIRPORT DURING THE FLIGHT WHEN YOU ARRIVE Consult your doctor before Allow yourself plenty of Chewing and swallowing Try some light exercise, travelling if you have time for check-in. will help equalise your ear or read if you can’t sleep any medical concerns Avoid carrying heavy pressure during ascent after arrival. about making a long bags through the airport and descent. journey, or if you suffer and onto the flight as this Babies and young from a respiratory or can place the body under passengers may suffer cardiovascular condition. considerable stress. more acutely with popping Plan for the destination – Once through to ears, therefore consider will you need any departures try and relax as providing a dummy. vaccinations or special much as possible. Get as comfortable as medications? possible when resting Get a good night’s rest and turn frequently. before the flight. Avoid sleeping for Eat lightly and sensibly. long periods in the same position.
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OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 76 1/23/18 1:57 PM When every breath weighs you down and your strength begins to fade, you need a caring touch that’s within reach and a helping hand that gets you on your feet. You need a healthcare partner that is with you on your journey to recovery.
With nearly 100 years of medical expertise, Cleveland Clinic Abu Dhabi specializes in the treatment of heart and vascular, respiratory, digestive, neurological and eye conditions. Every step together.
Learn more at everysteptogether.com To make an appointment call 800 8 2223 (from within the UAE) and +971 2 659 0200 (from outside the UAE).
MOH-GK99608 VISA GUIDE
Guide to US customs & immigration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle- free as possible.
All passengers arriving into the US need to Customs Declaration Form complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.
ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation up to 72 hours prior to your departure.
ESTA FACTS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending. A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.
APPLY ONLINE AT WWW.CBP.GOV/ESTA
NATIONALITIES ELIGIBLE FOR THE VISA WAIVER*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**
* Subject to change ** Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa Waiver Program.
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Cut the queue at JFK with Quick Connect If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. The US Customs And Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.
Follow these steps 123 4 Have your boarding card or You’ll be given a Quick After passport clearance, If your bag is tagged to your ticket for your connecting Connect card. Continue to the claim your baggage and clear final destination, hand it to flight ready for the ground Quick Connect queue in the US customs, regardless of Emirates staff at the transfer staff as you exit. Arrivals Hall. your final destination. counter for your onward flight.
Quarantine in Australia
Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.
You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.
Quarantine in Japan
Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items.
You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if:
• You have recently been to a livestock farm • Are bringing livestock products into Japan • Your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock
The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.
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OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 80 1/23/18 1:57 PM PATIENCE ISN’T JUST A VIRTUE, IT’S AN INGREDIENT TIME HONOURED NEW TO DUBAI DUTY FREE
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Be Smart! Use UAE Smart Gate at Dubai International Airport Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate.
If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds.
Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.
Using UAE Smart Gate is easy GATES SMART CAN USE UAE THAT NATIONALITIES
Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to 1 be scanned
Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card 2 into the card slot
OK! Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the 3 next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim
REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your
way just minutes after you have landed. K K
IF YOU RE A UAE RESI ENT UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USE BY: Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at E all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures, across all three E I terminals at DXB.
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OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 82 1/23/18 1:57 PM INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP
MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES SIX HOSPITALS, OVER 20 CLINICS AND MORE THAN 700 INPATIENT BEDS ACROSS DUBAI, ABU DHABI, AL AIN AND THE WESTERN REGION.
EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST.
A MEDICLINIC INTERNATIONAL COMPANY www.mediclinic.ae MOH MH52817-30.9.18 NEW ROUTE ondon Stansted Istan ul Sa iha k en Airport Phnom Penh: daily service via Yangon starts July 1
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TRAVEL TO A ITIONAL ESTINATIONS WITH OUR CO ESHARE PARTNERS / SN / E
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OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 87 1/23/18 1:57 PM Emirates Fleet ur fleet of 0 aircraft includes passenger aircraft and SkyCargo aircraft
AIRBUS A380-800
BOEING 777-300ER
BOEING 777-200LR
BOEING 777-300
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OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 88 1/23/18 1:58 PM OS84.P69-89_Briefing.indd 89 ’S AT C NN CTI ITY, NT TAIN NT AN S IC S A A AI AB NB A AC AI C AFT TYP E S S O I S N I BOEING 777F EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 747 ERF EMIRATES SKYCARGO E E P AIRBUS A319 OPEN SKIES /8 EE 1/23/18 1:58 PM
A CELEBRITY DIRECTIONS
Gerard Butler’s GUIDE TO GLASGOW Each month the great and good curate a travel itinerary exclusively for Open Skies. This month, an A-List Scottish export to Hollywood WORDS: Emma Coiler
You can find the best thing about Glasgow in every corner of the
city. There is this perception that Glaswegians are hard and tough – and they can be – but they’re also some of the warmest in the 4.2518° W 4.2518° GLASGOW 55.8642° N N 55.8642° world with a fantastic sense of humour. So my favourite thing about Glasgow is the people. They’re what I look for when I want to escape all the Hollywood nonsense. I’m a football fan, and might be biased, but if you can go and see an Old Firm game (Glasgow Celtic vs Glasgow Rangers) you have to. There might be matches in European football that have more quality on show, but in terms of atmosphere and what it means to the fans you will never beat an Old Firm derby (the next one is on March 10). If you’re hungry, you’re in luck. We are the home of the deep fried Mars Bar, so you should probably find a local fish and chip shop and try one – just so you can say you have. Follow it up with an evening out. I don’t drink anymore but you are not going to struggle for fun in Glasgow, believe me. They have some great sports bars and a pretty special live music scene. If you don’t mind a drive, take a trip to the Highlands the following day. My family lives there now, and when I’m in the garden just looking at the mountain ranges, you realise that Scotland is one of the most beautiful countries in the world. If you’re there, you have to experience it. Back in the city, Glasgow is full of culture, packed with magnificent buildings and incredible castles. In my opinion it rivals any country in Europe for beauty and architecture. The best time to visit? That’s easy. New Year’s Eve and the days building up to it for Hogmanay – it’s stunning. Other than that, well I have a pretty good diet most of the year, but that goes out the window in Glasgow; so my perfect day is fried food, football and family.
THE DETAILS EAT Deep fried Mars Bar | Blue Lagoon SEE Old Firm derby | Ibrox/Celtic Park EXPERIENCE Live music | Blackfriars ENJOY The people | They’re everywhere CHECK OUT The Castles | Bothwell CHILL The scenery | The Highlands
Emirates flies twice daily to Glasgow with the Boeing 777-300ER. GLASGOW
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OS84.P90_TheGuide.indd 90 1/23/18 2:01 PM بـــرواز دبـــي DUBAI FRAME
تمتـــع بزيارة ومشـــاهدة ديب الحديثة المتمثلة يف Visit and enjoy Dubai’s modern أبراج شـــارع الشـــيخ زايد وديب القديمة يف معالم landscape of Sheikh Zayed Road and مناطق ديرة، أم هرير والكرامة وكن ًشـــاهدا على ,Heritage Buldings in the areas of Deira المعلـــم الحضـــاري الـــذي يربـــط بيـــن الماضـــي Umm Hurair and Karama. Witness the والحاضـــر من ٍعلو شـــاهق. cultural landmark bridging the past and the present from high above.
مـــن داخـــــــــــــل الدولـــــــــــــة
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