Overland Trails

Words: Miriam Blaker

e arrived on dusk under a the years patrons of this historic pub have moody sky. Outside the hotel reported strange noises, old time fiddle music were stables, a lock-up and and unexplained goings on. According to the W wagons and I half expected current managers the hotel’s resident ghost a gun slinging bushranger to saunter out. is nicknamed ‘George’ and is a friendly ghost Originally an isolated frontier pub, the known to enjoy playing the jukebox. Hotel still has a feeling of Whether or not you believe in ghosts yesteryear with its walls of fossilised limestone the Overland Corner Hotel is a fascinating some 1.5 metres thick and floors lined with place. It’s just 700 metres from the Murray Clockwise from far left: pine and local red gum. Today it’s a popular River where rigs of all sizes can camp out Pelicans are constant visitors to Lake Bonney. Photo: Miriam Blaker.  Banrock Station Wine and Wetland Centre. Photo: Miriam Blaker.  The ruins of the old Lake Bonney Hotel. Photo: haunt for travellers who enjoy drover-sized the back of the hotel or down by the river, Miriam Blaker.  Relaxing on the pier at . Photo: Doug Blaker.  Exploring near the meals in a unique setting, a massive beer providing easy access to the delights of the historic Overland Corner. Photo: Miriam Blaker. garden, walls that just ooze history, a museum pub – just as the drovers would have done and a resident ghost. It’s a great place to enjoy years ago. After our meal we headed back to a break from camp tucker. our camp at Barmera, stopping to photograph The Overland Corner Hotel in South a spectacular sunset on the way. is the oldest building in the Barmera, a thriving town overlooking South region. Because of its rich and colourful past, Australia’s favourite aquatic playground, Lake it was purchased by the National Trust in 1965. Bonney, is in the centre of the Riverland region Built on ‘Overland Corner’ site more than 150 and we stayed at the Lake Bonney Caravan years ago by the Brand brothers who migrated Park. The park has prime position right on from Kent in England, the pub was once a the lake with powered sites next to the water popular resting place for drovers, cattlemen and loads of activities to keep young and old On the Barmera foreshore there is an Just across the road from Napper’s Ruins and steam boat captains. amused: a jumping pillow, karts, canoes and excellent playground for young children as is the entrance to the Loch Luna Game One of the most famous visits was by the paddle boats to hire, and a jumping pillow out well as the Rocky Page Museum Hall of Fame Reserve and for those who love basic notorious bushranger Captain Moonlight who on the water, which proved to be a lot of fun. located in Barwell Avenue, which celebrates camping amidst pristine nature this is the is said to have ridden into the front bar of the The lake is named after Australian country music. place to be. Despite its close proximity to Overland Hotel after locking up the local who saw it on the first overland trek from The museum was built to honour the late Barmera, it still feels remote. There are no copper in the nearby police cells! Maybe that’s Sydney to in 1838. Today it’s the Dean ‘Rocky’ Page, a well-known local country facilities here so you need to take everything, why the bar lost its licence in the 1890s… It centre of Barmera where activities such as music legend and displays the largest guitar but if you love fishing, canoeing and just being regained the licence 90 years later, but not windsurfing, canoeing and fishing are all in Australia, as well as home to the hand prints near the water you will be in paradise. Loch before it was used as a church, school, dance favourite pastimes. of famous names such as Slim Dusty, Smokey Luna is a large area of calm, quiet backwaters hall and post office. In summer the town’s population swells, but Dawson, Reg Lindsay and more than 150 other with narrow creeks, shallow swamps and Not far from the hotel is the Overland when we visited in September the town was local entertainers. The museum is part of a loads of birdlife. Corner Walking Trail, which is a historic eight quiet and the lake waters calm and solitary. plan to one day turn Barmera into the Tamworth It costs a small fee per night to camp at kilometre self-guided walking trail past old That is, except for the mass of pelicans and of . In June each year the town Loch Luna, which is paid at the self-registering Aboriginal campgrounds. A brochure can other birdlife that call the lake home. celebrates with a country music festival. station at the entrance to the park. Most sites be picked up at the pub. As it was getting The wetlands here abound with wildlife. Worth visiting is Napper’s Ruins, once are right by the water and have plenty of room late, we opted to drive out to the Head out and walk the beach before 9.30 am the Lake Bonney Hotel, located on the north for tents, camper trailers and big rigs. instead, check out a few of the sites along the and you’ll inevitably see a teeming mass of side of Lake Bonney. The Lake Bonney Hotel If you fancy getting out on the water but trail and get back in time to peruse the hotel cormorants, pelicans and other water birds was built around 1863 by William Napper don’t have your own craft, Loch Luna offer memorabilia before our meal. herding fish and having breakfast. Sunrises and during its heyday was a vital place for cruises into the back streams and creeks of Inside one of the rooms at the pub hangs a and sunsets are spectacular over the lake supplies. It was built for former workers of this beautiful area. The unique Loch Luna is a spooky picture of the Brand brothers with what and each evening we strolled down to the pier Station and consisted of eleven platform boat that can cruise the river as well looks like a ghost looking over the shoulder to watch the sun setting over the water with rooms that included a bar and a dining room as going into the backwaters of the Murray of the first brother on the left. The hotel is water birds and water skiers skating over the that could cater for twelve people – this room River. Carl, the skipper, knows his history and notorious for its haunted activities and over surface in the distance. was occasionally used as a dance space. is an informative and entertaining guide.

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C k Ri 710 S R P I think theyk wereA moreMimili impressed with the iv Todmo R er rden RD BAYSIDEO CAMPER TRAILER Mt Sir Thomas ERA M Clifton Hills chocolateTHE EV factory shop across theMa rlroad.a As O 805 a Du Mintabie c rham Downs C Welbourn Hill u we adults were with the wineries; this is wine m b CAMEL CAMPERS a n ClockwiseOodnadatta from top: o country after all. rt The historic Overland CornerRiv Hoteler and beer garden.u Na rb ppa Merrie As you head out of Monash towards Photo: Miriam Blaker.  Lake Bonney is a favouritea Arckaringa W Cowarie Innamincka CAMERON CAMPERS Renmark, Thachi Wines isM oau ngreatt Willou gplacehby to aquatic playground in South Australia. Photo: Miriam Blaker.  Jumping up a storm at Lake Bonney Caravan T k D E S E R pick up a shiraz port. Or call into the historic e V I C T O R I A Park. Photo: Miriam Blaker. TIRARI DESER e M CAMP IN COMFORT G R E A T Peake LA T r oomba Orien Angove winery at Renmark, home to St Agnes KE Lake Mulapula C tos EYRE Mulka k brandy andL oneake M ofer aAustralia’smangye largest family- C S O U T H NORTH S T CARRY ME CAMPERS Cooper R Z E L E C K I owned wineries. If you time it right in Renmark, Bullo Lake Naryilco o Downs Serpentine Lakes (the first Sunday of each month), you can Cadibarrawirracanna Etadunna Mabel Creek Wi D E S E R T COMPLETE CAMPSITE lliam Creek i Lake k step back in time on board the PS Industry, Coober Pedy c Gregory le S e Cam T z er Wyola r on Corner a 100-year-oldy paddle steamer for a trip up U t Lake Lake Dey-De S Fo A Clayton rt Grey CUB CAMPERS R the Murray. T rice Lake Blanche Oak Valley Lake Mau R Lake Eyre hulka) A (Carle-T Nearby at Berri we climbed the water tower, South Lake CUSTOMLINE CAMPERS Ingomar Marree Murnpeowie Callabon reek Tibooburra Wilkinson Lakes na C which offers one of the best look-out points of ha Tilc k the town. Afterwards we drove out to see the Tilcha C Lake Anthony Millers Creek a GOLDSTREAM RV Moolawatana dam mural underneath the bridge that depicts the Yan Maralinga Mulgathing Freeling Heights Aboriginal heritage of the area. 944 Lyndhurst Mount Lyndhurst SJAYCOalt If you enjoy wine tasting and walking, head Bon Bon Olympic Dam Andamooka Arkaroola Lake Wynbring Border Dow Cobha Ooldea Roxby Downs A ns m 20 kilometres out of Barmera on the Sturt Tarcoola N Leig S D h Creek E LAKE JOHNNOS CAMPERS Cook A G M FROME Deakin Highway at Kingston to the award winning Lake Beltana N KiFACTngoonya FILE O Younghusband O LAKE A Banrock Station Wine and Wetland Centre. K R A E MOUNTAIN TRAIL CAMPERS Forrest Coondambo Lake u Lake Harris r Teilta Hart Parachilna Blinman in na There are three wetland walks that can be Getting there il ga S oon R l L Woomera a TORR E A ENS

G I N enjoyed here, ranging from 2.5 km to 8 km. S Frome Downs A Barmera is 220 km north-east of Adelaide. If coming from Adelaide C R P L Yalata Island St Mary Pe N OUTBACK CAMPERS B O ak r A R llarbor Motel A N U L L Nu A U S T R A L I A e Lago Pernatt R a on y e Koonald As we arrived in the heat of the afternoon we 1168 Mootw Lake follow the A20 to Riverland and follow the signs to Barmera. ingee Border k “Buy your Camper Trailer Lago on

Village Everard HEAD OFopted for the shorter circuit. LAKE Mulyungarie Mt Lake Ev From Melbourne, travel to Mildura along the Calder Highway. From Mildura we R PIONEER CAMPERS Eucla erard Mahanewo Curnamona E BIGHT Bookabie Robe I Penong GAIRDN R AfterwardsCoorabie we enjoyed a cellar door turned onto EtheR Sturt Highway. 473 R Mundrabilla Hawker A from a Guild Member Ceduna Lake Acraman Moonaree B Bro tasting. The tempranilloFowlers is especially good. Lake Silverton ken Hill SOUTHERNG CROSS CAMPERS Bay S Cradock Macfarlane Cockburn LIN From the restaurant youSt P ecanter I enjoy lunch Where to stay R R y E y Ba Wirrulla Quorn Olary A rchipelagoSmok D D as a Guarantee it’s with spectacularNuy tviewss A of the vineyards and Lake BonneyGAWL ECaravan Park, Lakeside Drive, Barmera O SOUTHERN LAND CAMPERS R N Manna Hill l Port Augusta I a St Francis I RAN Carrieton r Lake Me L y nindee wetlands below – not a bad way to pass the Phone: 1800Nonn i034n 828GE S Burta STREAKY BAY g F Menind Yunta RA ee Poochera Iron Kn Wilmington A afternoon. www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au/sa/barmera_riverland/lake_bonneyLake G ob ND C illes a E k TAILGATE CAMPERS built in Australia” Streaky Bay M d B Minnipa t Remarkable 963 Orroroo un Lake Tan Buckleboo an dou For those that want to ramp up the M C AttractionsWudinna Iron Baron k H T adventure, not far from Barmera is Loveday Kimba Germein Peterborough A U S T R A L I A N B I G Port Kenny Wh Bay Oakbank Outstation Coombah TRACKABOUT OFF ROAD CAMPERS G R E A T Historic Overland Corner Hotelyalla – www.overlandcornerhotel.com.auTerowie Lake Mindo 4x4 Adventure Park. This park is set on 8000 Port Pir Jamestown na ANXIOUS BAY E Y R E P E N I N S U L A ie Gladstone Popiltah Lake 200 Crystal Brook Mt Bryan Mulurulu Lake acres of private property with more than Banrock Station Wine and Wetland Centre – 933 TravelleTRACKrs Lake TRAILER Lock S Elliston Port Broughton palding Canopus Pooncarie 40 km of tracks ranging from easy terrain www.banrockstation.com.auCleve Cowell Flinders Island Burra Canegra to extreme sand, mud and stony climbs. ss © Commonwealth of Australia (Geoscience Australia) 2012 Loch Luna Cruises – A three-hour Clare S TRAYON CAMPERS Wallaroo E Tony, the owner-operator of the business, Arno Bay Kadina G Robertstown Lake cruise includes refreshments and N Morgan Victoria Mount Hope Moonta A

2 SPENCER R R 0 has created something for everyone and if Y E 00 a commentary. Departs from R Waikerie V Wentw TRU BLU CAMPERS Cummins iverton A I orth C YORKE Balaklava R Renmark offin B GULF R you don’t have your own 4x4 he’ll even take ay Tumby Bay Maitland Merbein Kingston on Murray foreshore Kapunda R Ba MI Supporter – Australian Manufactured Port Victoria Ardrossan rmera Berri LDURA you for an extreme drive on the competition 9.30Coffin amBay SundaySir Jo stoep Friday.h Banks PEN U ULTIMATE OFF ROAD CAMPERS Avo Group N M Loxton Meringur Red Cliffs Camper Trailer Guild id Bay Hardwicke Bay Gawler uri Pitarp track in his V8 Landcruiser. The competition Port Vincen Y ootpa Swan Reach unga Lake Phone:P o0449rt Lin c122oln 271 orM afterinlaton t T F Barmera 4 Robinvale 00 track is where seasoned drivers can test O Mannum VISTA RV CROSSOVER 0 Cape Carnhoursot (08)T 8583histle I0155. ADELAIDE L Alawoona Hattah Bridgewater Peebi out their skills and their vehicles on a tight West Point Yorketown nga MALLEE Gambier Is Mount Barker Ku Karoonda lwin Manangatang course with steep climbs, deep mud and When to go Stenhouse Aldinga Beach Strathalbyn Underbool Ouyen Cape Spencer Tailem L Pinnaroo Bay GULF T ameroo sharp corners. N Bend All seasons are good in Barmera U RAIT ST VINCENT O Goolw Murrayville Lake Ty R ST M a Lake rrell Back in town, and in a twist on the famed with mild wintersTIGA andTO warm Alexandri Patche INVES Kingscote Victor Harbor na wollock F L Encounter S Spanish Running of the Bulls, Barmera is summers. The country music E Y Coonalpyn ea Lake KANGAROO ISLAND U Bay O Meningie Hopetoun R U T Lake home to the running of the sheep. In 2013, I N h Tintina Albacutya Woomela festival is held in June each year E G e ra ng U H Cape Du Couedic P C Rainbow The Guild is a proud AUSBUY member supporting thousands flocked (pardon the pun) to see U o and the Barmera Sheep Dog Trials E S Birchip Cape Gantheaume N o Lak B r Keith e more than 300 sheep run through the main A o Hindmarsh and the running of the sheep are N n Jeparit g D Bordertow Nhil street. The event is a lead up to the Barmera n l Australian owned and made products exclusively. held in October each year. P Wa E rracknabeal Sheep Dog Trials. For us though, there were no N Kaniva Dimboola Donald Padthaway WIMMERA sheep running, no crowds to tussle through, More information Lacepede Bay Goroke Hors Murtoa Kingston SE ham just pelicans that glided past every night as we Barmera Tourist Information Centre Naracoorte

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waters of the lake.  www.barmeratourism.com.au Balmoral P well

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