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Overland Trails Overland Trails Words: Miriam Blaker e arrived on dusk under a the years patrons of this historic pub have moody sky. Outside the hotel reported strange noises, old time fiddle music were stables, a lock-up and and unexplained goings on. According to the W wagons and I half expected current managers the hotel’s resident ghost a gun slinging bushranger to saunter out. is nicknamed ‘George’ and is a friendly ghost Originally an isolated frontier pub, the known to enjoy playing the jukebox. Overland Corner Hotel still has a feeling of Whether or not you believe in ghosts yesteryear with its walls of fossilised limestone the Overland Corner Hotel is a fascinating some 1.5 metres thick and floors lined with place. It’s just 700 metres from the Murray Clockwise from far left: pine and local red gum. Today it’s a popular River where rigs of all sizes can camp out Pelicans are constant visitors to Lake Bonney. Photo: Miriam Blaker. Banrock Station Wine and Wetland Centre. Photo: Miriam Blaker. The ruins of the old Lake Bonney Hotel. Photo: haunt for travellers who enjoy drover-sized the back of the hotel or down by the river, Miriam Blaker. Relaxing on the pier at Barmera. Photo: Doug Blaker. Exploring near the meals in a unique setting, a massive beer providing easy access to the delights of the historic Overland Corner. Photo: Miriam Blaker. garden, walls that just ooze history, a museum pub – just as the drovers would have done and a resident ghost. It’s a great place to enjoy years ago. After our meal we headed back to a break from camp tucker. our camp at Barmera, stopping to photograph The Overland Corner Hotel in South a spectacular sunset on the way. Australia is the oldest building in the Riverland Barmera, a thriving town overlooking South region. Because of its rich and colourful past, Australia’s favourite aquatic playground, Lake it was purchased by the National Trust in 1965. Bonney, is in the centre of the Riverland region Built on ‘Overland Corner’ site more than 150 and we stayed at the Lake Bonney Caravan years ago by the Brand brothers who migrated Park. The park has prime position right on from Kent in England, the pub was once a the lake with powered sites next to the water popular resting place for drovers, cattlemen and loads of activities to keep young and old On the Barmera foreshore there is an Just across the road from Napper’s Ruins and steam boat captains. amused: a jumping pillow, karts, canoes and excellent playground for young children as is the entrance to the Loch Luna Game One of the most famous visits was by the paddle boats to hire, and a jumping pillow out well as the Rocky Page Museum Hall of Fame Reserve and for those who love basic notorious bushranger Captain Moonlight who on the water, which proved to be a lot of fun. located in Barwell Avenue, which celebrates camping amidst pristine nature this is the is said to have ridden into the front bar of the The lake is named after Charles Bonney Australian country music. place to be. Despite its close proximity to Overland Hotel after locking up the local who saw it on the first overland trek from The museum was built to honour the late Barmera, it still feels remote. There are no copper in the nearby police cells! Maybe that’s Sydney to Adelaide in 1838. Today it’s the Dean ‘Rocky’ Page, a well-known local country facilities here so you need to take everything, why the bar lost its licence in the 1890s… It centre of Barmera where activities such as music legend and displays the largest guitar but if you love fishing, canoeing and just being regained the licence 90 years later, but not windsurfing, canoeing and fishing are all in Australia, as well as home to the hand prints near the water you will be in paradise. Loch before it was used as a church, school, dance favourite pastimes. of famous names such as Slim Dusty, Smokey Luna is a large area of calm, quiet backwaters hall and post office. In summer the town’s population swells, but Dawson, Reg Lindsay and more than 150 other with narrow creeks, shallow swamps and Not far from the hotel is the Overland when we visited in September the town was local entertainers. The museum is part of a loads of birdlife. Corner Walking Trail, which is a historic eight quiet and the lake waters calm and solitary. plan to one day turn Barmera into the Tamworth It costs a small fee per night to camp at kilometre self-guided walking trail past old That is, except for the mass of pelicans and of South Australia. In June each year the town Loch Luna, which is paid at the self-registering Aboriginal campgrounds. A brochure can other birdlife that call the lake home. celebrates with a country music festival. station at the entrance to the park. Most sites be picked up at the pub. As it was getting The wetlands here abound with wildlife. Worth visiting is Napper’s Ruins, once are right by the water and have plenty of room late, we opted to drive out to the Murray River Head out and walk the beach before 9.30 am the Lake Bonney Hotel, located on the north for tents, camper trailers and big rigs. instead, check out a few of the sites along the and you’ll inevitably see a teeming mass of side of Lake Bonney. The Lake Bonney Hotel If you fancy getting out on the water but trail and get back in time to peruse the hotel cormorants, pelicans and other water birds was built around 1863 by William Napper don’t have your own craft, Loch Luna offer memorabilia before our meal. herding fish and having breakfast. Sunrises and during its heyday was a vital place for cruises into the back streams and creeks of Inside one of the rooms at the pub hangs a and sunsets are spectacular over the lake supplies. It was built for former workers of this beautiful area. The unique Loch Luna is a spooky picture of the Brand brothers with what and each evening we strolled down to the pier Cobdogla Station and consisted of eleven platform boat that can cruise the river as well looks like a ghost looking over the shoulder to watch the sun setting over the water with rooms that included a bar and a dining room as going into the backwaters of the Murray of the first brother on the left. The hotel is water birds and water skiers skating over the that could cater for twelve people – this room River. Carl, the skipper, knows his history and notorious for its haunted activities and over surface in the distance. was occasionally used as a dance space. is an informative and entertaining guide. 50 | GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA GO CAMPING AUSTRALIA | 51 ER V I s R rar Lake Far Glengyle Machattie Titjikala Monkira Palparara Wallara Ranch Idracowra Bilpa Morea C LOODS RA Lake B us Claypan H Currawilla 3 GDOGalway DCAMPINGowns Kaltukatjara Amade A Three Sisters cker River) owns Imanpa oe Bend E (Do Angas D nda Horsesh y N 300 RA Erldu r A W PETERM e N LIN SO AN nezer N D E S E R T IN Windorah N RA N Mount Ebe S I M P S O T E ALL TERRAIN CAMPER TRAILERS RA ulara Rock Andado N S Y Uluru/Ayers C A L Finke r n /Mt Olga s e M Betoota Statio a Tjuta 863 in Spring e rological Kat Curt Lilla Creek Crown IA Durrie iles Meteo 1066 Finke New k D G k Stevenson Pea Birdsville ARMADILLO CAMPERS Moonda Lake 1025 Poeppel Corner K gera Haddon Corn er E Kul River E Mt Cecil Pandie Pandie R Mulga Park C C urn 548 Abminga S T U R T S T O N Y D E S E R T AUSSIE SWAG Mt Cockb H S O a tev Lake Etamunbanie 1134 S m Tieyon ens U TH A i on s Corner Amata E M For a change R of pace and to keeplt little Lake Yamma Yamma r General ANN RA US RAVE ) o N Surveyo M S G ja (Ernabella n Moun Pukat (Mackillop) T t Howitt T t Woodroffe AUSTRALIAN OFF ROAD OM M tackers amused heads toCre ethek nearby MonashC R e R KIN 1435 O Agn k SO f Cordillo Downs N RAS E Y s fi Arrabury t Squire c A r M P Adventuree Park (featured in lotslb of travel e r er v Kaltjiti ga C Ri BAYSIDEO CAMPER TRAILER r a e shows). We(Freg oenjoyedn) In daul kbarbequean here and O Granite Downs e ja) C (Iwant k Clifton Hills Durham Downs had fun losing our kids in the maze although R Mt Illbillee ive Todmorden r M C 710 AS Mimili CAMEL CAMPERS k a I think they were R more impressed with the c RD la u RA Mar m E EVE n Hill n chocolateTH factory shopMint aacrossbie the road.W Aselbo ur b o Mt Sir Thomas a rt Nappa Merrie 805 ClockwiseOodnadatta from top: u CAMERON CAMPERS we adults were with the wineries; this is wine River rb Innamincka The historic Overland Corner Hotel and beer garden.a Lake Bonney is a favouriteW C owarie country after all.
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