338 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

A TBBREVIA IONS B St-Joseph (R) 238-9 Blue Bay (M) 111-12 M Baie de l’Arsenal Ruins St-Leu (R) 200 La Digue (S) 306 R Réunion (M) 64 St-Pierre (R) 231 Mahébourg (M) 107-8 S Seychelles Baie du Cap (M) 116-17 Tamarin Beach (M) 92 Ste Anne Marine Baie Laraie (S) 299 V incendo (R) 241 National Park (S) 279 Baie Ternay (S) 288 Beau Vallon (S) 280-4, 281 St-Gilles-les-Bains (R) 191-2 A Baissac, Vaco 137 beer 138, 261, 316 Aapravasi Ghat (M) 53 boat travel Balaclava (M) 64 Bel Ombre (M) 116 abseiling 97, 99 Mauritius 150, 151 Balcon du Dolomieu (R) 228 Bel Ombre (S) 280 accommodation 39, 330, Réunion 268 bananas 254 Belle Mare (M) 125-8, 15 see also individual (M) 165 Barlow (M) 121 Belle Vue Maurel (M) 121 islands Seychelles 322 Bas Mafate (R) 41, 223 Belvédère de l’Eden (R) 250 activities 145, 169, see also Bois Chéri Tea Plantation Basse- Vallée (R) 242-3 Belvédère du Nez-de-Bœuf individual activities (M) 118 Bassin Blanc (M) 98 (R) 228 air travel books 134-5, 259 Bassin Bleu (R) 253 Bérenger, Paul 131 Mauritius 150 Bory Crater (R) 228 Bazar Labrin (S) 284 bicycle travel, see cycling Réunion 210, 268 Boucan Canot (R) 190-1 Bé Mahot (R) 218 Bird Island (S) 311-12, 311 Rodrigues (M) 164-5 Bourg-Murat (R) 224 beaches 18 birds 140-2, 262, 316, 318, Seychelles 321 Bras-Panon (R) 250 Albion (M) 84-5 Anse Georgette (S) 173, see also individual species Bras-Sec (R) 217 Aldabra Group (S) 312 292, 297, 172-3 bird-watching budget 17 Alexandra Falls (M) 98 Anse Lazio (S) 11, 292, 293, Aride (S) 299 Mauritius 47 Alphonse Group (S) 312 11 Anse Source d’Argent (S) Bird Island (S) 311 Réunion 176 Amirantes Group (S) 312 173, 292, 305, 5, 172 Black River Gorges Seychelles 271 animals 18, 139-42, 262, National Park 96 bus travel 316, see also Bassin Pirogue (R) 205 individual species Belle Mare (M) 15, 125, 15 Cousin Island (S) 299 Mauritius 151 Anse Boileau (S) 288 Boucan Canot (R) 190 Île aux Aigrettes (M) 111 Réunion 268 Anse des Cascades (R) 254 Carana Beach (S) 280 Île aux Cocos (M) 158 Rodrigues (M) 165 Anse José (S) 299 Curieuse Island (S) 299 Île aux Serpents (M) 80 Seychelles 322 aquariums Étang-Salé-les-Bains Île Ronde (M) 80 business hours Aquarium de la Réunion (R) 205 Rivulet Terre Rouge Bird Mauritius 148 (R) 191 Gris Gris Beach (M) 114-15 Sanctuary (M) 64 Réunion 266 Mauritius Aquarium La Digue (S) 173, 292, V allée de Mai (S) 293 Seychelles 320 (M) 64 303, 305, 306, 5, 172-3 V euve Reserve (S) 305 architecture 136-7, 259, see La Saline-les-Bains black parrots 293, 316 also Creole architecture (R) 198 Black River (M) 92-5 C Cachée (S) 279 area codes 17 L’Hermitage-les-Bains Black River Gorges National café marron 160 Aride (S) 299 (R) 195 Park (M) 10, 95-6, 97, Calebasses (M) 121 art galleries, see galleries Mahé (S) 280, 285, 287, 98, 10 288, 289, 292 canyoning 169 arts 134-7, 259, 315 Blue Bay (M) 110-14 Plage de Grande Anse Mauritius 99 ATMs 147, 266, 320 Blue Bay Marine Park (R) 236 (M) 110 Réunion 212-13, 218-19, Aurère (R) 223 Pointe d’Esny (M) 15, 110, Blue Penny Museum (M) 53 248, 169 173, 173 boat tours, see also Cap Malheureux (M) Praslin (S) 11, 173, 292, catamaran trips, cruises 81-2 Map Pages 000 293, 297, 11, 172-3 Baie Ternay (S) 280-1 Cap Méchant (R) 242 Photo Pages 000 St-Gilles-les-Bains (R) 191 Beau Vallon (S) 280-1 Cap Noir (R) 186 339 car travel Notre Dame Auxiliatrice cruises 72-3, 124, see also Ste Anne Marine Mauritius 47, 151-2 (M) 81 boat tours, catamaran National Park (S) 279 Réunion 266, 268-9 Notre Dame des Anges trips St-Gilles-les-Bains (R) Rodrigues (M) 165 (M) 107 culture 171, see also 32, 192-3 individual islands Seychelles 322 Notre Dame des Laves St-Leu (R) 32, 200-1 (R) 254 Curepipe (M) 61-3 Carnaval International de St-Pierre (R) 32, 231

Victoria (S) 275 Notre-Dame de la Curieuse Island (S) 299 diving 169, 168 IND Salette (R) 200 Carnegie Library (M) 61 currency first-time diving 33 Saint Gabriel Church Mauritius 147 E

health & safety 326-7 X Casela Nature & Leisure (M) 158

-Park (M) 85, 87 Réunion 266 insurance 319  C St-Pierre Church (R) 230 catamaran trips, see also Seychelles 319-20 responsible diving 29  E Cilaos (R) 210-16, 211, 19 boat tours, cruises customs regulations dodos 142 Cimetière Marin (R) 186 Mauritius 72-3, 100, Mauritius 146 Dolomieu Crater (R) 228 124, 125 Cirque de Cilaos (R) 209-17, Réunion 265 dolphin-watching Réunion 191-2 168 cycling, see also mountain La Gaulette (M) 100-1 cathedrals, see churches & Cirque de Mafate (R) 9, biking St-Gilles-les-Bains (R) cathedrals 188, 189, 222-3, 8-9, Mauritius 150 191-2 Catholicism 134, 258 35, 38, 40 Réunion 268 Tamarin (M) 10, 92-3 Cirque de Salazie (R) Cavadee 248, 249, 258, 15 Rodrigues (M) 165 217-22 Domaine de Bel Ombre Caverne Patate (M) 157 Seychelles 322 (M) 116 Cirques, the (R) 208-23, caving 245 cyclones 148 208-9 Domaine de l’Étoile (M) cell phones 119 climate 16, 20, 21, see also Mauritius 148-9 individual islands Domaine Les Pailles (M) Réunion 267 D 58-9 coco de mer palms 278, dance 171, 259 Seychelles 320 Dos d’Ane (R) 186 292-3 dangers 152-3 Central Plateau (M) drinks coco fesse 278 Danzil (S) 280 58-63, 60 Mauritius 137-8 coconuts 278 decompression sickness Cerf Island (S) 279 Réunion 176, 261 coffee 255-6, 261 327 Chagos Islands 130 Seychelles 316 Coin de Mire (M) 80 deep-sea fishing 65, Chamarel (M) 10, 96-100 Col de Fourche (R) 222 93, 159 driving, see car travel chambres d’hôtes 13, Col des Bœufs (R) 222 Denis (S) 9, 311, 311, 9 144-5, 264 colonisation Desroches (S) 174, 312-13 Champ de Mars E Mauritius 129-30 diarrhoea 326 echo parakeets 141-2 Racecourse (M) 52 Réunion 255 Diego Garcia 130 economy Chapelle de Rosemont (R) 228 Rodrigues (M) 166 disabilities, travellers with Mauritius 129, 131, 132 Chapelle Front de Mer Seychelles 313 Mauritius 149 Réunion 255 (R) 246 cone shells 328 Réunion 267 Seychelles 313, 314 Chapelle Pointue (R) 194 consulates 146, 265,319 Seychelles 320-1 electricity Chateau Labourdonnais Copolia (S) 285 Divali 15, 21, 248, 249 Mauritius 146 (M) 11, 83 coral 30 dive sites Réunion 267 Chazal, Malcolm de 135, 137 Corps de Garde (M) 59 Beau Vallon (S) 280 Seychelles 321 Chemin Forêt Noire (S) 285 costs 17 Belmar Pass (M) 29, embassies 146, 319 chikungunya 325 Mauritius 47 126 embroidery 210 children, travel with Réunion 176 Blue Bay (M) 29, 112 emergencies 17, 332-3 Mauritius 145-6 Seychelles 271 Étang-Salé-les-Bains (R) Enclos Fouqué (R) 228 Réunion 265 Cousin Island (S) 299 32, 205 Entre-Deux (R) 206-8 Seychelles 319 Cratère Rivals (R) 228 Flic en Flac (M) 87, 89 environmental issues 143-4, churches & cathedrals credit cards La Digue (S) 33, 306 263, 317-18 Cathédrale de St-Denis Mauritius 147 Mahé (S) 33 Étang-Salé-les-Bains (R) (R) 179 Réunion 266 Mahébourg (M) 108 205-6 Cathedral of the Seychelles 320 Mauritius 10, 27-30, 64, etiquette 131 85, 120 Immaculate Creole architecture 171, Eureka (M) 11, 59 Conception (S) 274 Mont Choisy (M) 64 178, 218, 230, 259, 170 events, see festivals & Chapel & Shrine of Marie Creole languages 132, Pereybère (M) 78 events Reine De La Paix 329-30 Praslin (S) 33, 293 exchange rates (M) 52 Creole people 133, 134, Réunion 30, 32 Mauritius 47 Église du Sacré-Coeur 257 Rodrigues (M) 29-30, Réunion 176 (R) 204 Cross du Piton des Neiges 159 Seychelles 271 Église – Ste-Anne (R) (R) 213 Seychelles 14, 33-4 253 340 F Fort Frederik Hendrik Black River Gorges history 171, see also Félicité (S) 306 (M) 119 National Park (M) individual islands 96, 97 festivals & events 15, François Leguat Reserve hitching 152-3 20-1, 171 (M) 155, 157 Bras-Sec (R) 217 Hitié, Danielle 137 Carnaval International Frégate (S) 174, 312, Central Plateau (M) 59 HIV 326 de Victoria (S) 275 312, 174 Cilaos (R) 213 Holi 20

IND Cavadee 248, 249, French language 330-4 Cirque de Mafate (R) 9, holidays 148, 266, 320 258, 15 fruit bats 140 188, 189, 222-3, 8-9, honeymoon destinations E 35, 38, 40

X X Cross du Piton des 174 Dos d’Ane (R) 186 F- Neiges (R) 213  G horse racing 52 J Divali 15, 21, 248, 249 Entre-Deux (R) 207  galleries horse riding Forêt de Bébour-Bélouve Festival Kreol 21, 275 Galerie du Moulin Cassé Mauritius 64-5, 70 (R) 230, FetAfrik (S) 21, 275 (M) 78 40 97, 103 Haut Mafate (R) 39, 223 Fête de la Vigne (R) 213 L’Artothèque (R) 179 Réunion 206, 225, Hell-Bourg (R) 220 236, 251 Fête de Notre-Dame de Mauritius Glass Gallery la Salette (R) 201 (M) 62 Kestrel Valley (M) 119-20 hot springs 212 Fête des Lentilles (R) Philippe Turpin’s Studio Le Maïdo (R) 189 213 (R) 212 Le Morne Peninsula (M) Fête du Vacoa (R) 244 102-3 I Victoria 1840 (M) 120-1 Île aux Aigrettes (M) 15, Grand Raid (R) 244 gardens, see parks & Lion Mountain (M) 119 110-11, 112 Holi 20 gardens Mauritius 103, 102 Île aux Bénitiers (M) 100 Leu Tempo (R) 201 gay travellers Morne Seychellois Île aux Cerfs (M) 125 Maha Shivaratri 20, 100 Mauritius 146 National Park (S) 12, 284, 285 Île aux Cocos (M) 158 Megavalanche Mountain Réunion 265 Île aux Serpents (M) 80 Race (R) 190 Piton de la Fournaise (R) Seychelles 319 Île Cocos (S) 306 Pèlerinage à la Vierge au 226, 227-8, 39 geography & geology 139, Île des Deux Cocos (M) Parasol (R) 254 261-2, 316 Piton des Neiges (R) 36, 214, 111 Sakifo (R) 231 gîtes de montagne 264 42 responsible hiking 41 Île Plate (M) 80 SUBIOS Underwater gîtes d’étapes 264 Réunion 35-42 Île Ronde (M) 80 Festival (S) 275 gîtes ruraux 264-5 Rivière des Remparts Île Souris (S) 287 Teemeedee 15, 21 Glacis (S) 280 (R) 240 Îlet à Cordes (R) 216-17 fire-walking ceremonies golf 62, 93, 116, 125, 126 248 Rodrigues (M) 158-9 Îlet Bethléem (R) 251 Gorges Viewpoint (M) 98 fish 30, 31 Seychelles 303 Îlet Chicot (R) 212 Grand Baie (M) 70-8, 72 fishing, see also deep-sea Tamarin Falls (M) 99 Îlet-à-Vidot (R) 218 fishing Grand Bassin (M) 15, Tour des Cirques (R) Îlot Gabriel (M) 80 98, 100 Grand Baie (M) 71-2 41-2 independence Grand Bassin (R) 224 St-Gilles-les-Bains Vallée de Mai (S) 14, Mauritius 131 Grand Coude (R) 239-41 (R) 193 292-3, 14 Rodrigues (M) 165, 166 Grand Étang (R) 251 Flic en Flac (M) 85-91, 88 Hindu temples Seychelles 314 Grand Gaube (M) 82 Flinders, Matthew 116 Grand Baie (M) 70 insect bites & stings 327 Grand Îlet (R) 222 Floréal (M) 62 St-André (R) 249 insurance Grand Peak (M) 121 food 13, 13 St-Denis (R) 179 diving 327 Grand Raid (R) 244 language 331-2 Victoria (S) 273 health 324 Grande Anse (S) 288 Mauritius 46, 47, 137-9, Hinduism 134, 258 Mauritius 146 Grande Montagne Nature 147 historic buildings Seychelles 319 Reserve (M) 157 Réunion 175, 176, 259-61 Aapravasi Ghat (M) 53 internet access 146, 164, Grande Sœur (S) 306 Rodrigues (M) 154, 162-4 Domaine des Aubineaux 265, 319 Seychelles 270, 271, (M) 61 internet resources 17, 325, 315-16, 320 H Domaine du Grand see also individual Forêt de Bébour-Bélouve Haut Mafate (R) 39, 223 Hazier (R) 246 islands (R) 230, 40 health 324-8 Eureka (M) 11, 59 Islam 134 Forêt Ste-Marguerite heat exhaustion & Hôtel de Ville (M) 61 itineraries 22-6 (R) 251 heatstroke 327 Kanti House (S) 273 Formica Leo (R) 228 helicopter trips 152, 210 Maison Folio (R) 218 J Fort Adelaide (M) 53 Hell-Bourg (R) 218-22, Maison Martin Valliamé Jacques-Payet (R) 241 (R) 249 219 Jardin des 5 Sens (M) 158 Old Courthouse (S) 273 hepatitis 325-6 Jean Petit (R) 240 St Aubin (M) 117, Map Pages 000 hiking 18, 169 13 Jugnauth, Anerood 131 Photo Pages 000 Bas Mafate (R) 41, 223 St-Denis (R) 178-9, 12 341 K Le Guillaume (R) 189 Curieuse Marine Seychelles 320 kabars 259 Le Maïdo (R) 189-90 National Park (S) 317 model ships 65 Kaya 134 Le Morne Peninsula (M) Park Ste Anne Marine Moka (M) 59, 61 National Park (S) 279 kayaking 102-5 money 17, see also Port Launay Marine Grand Gaube (M) 82 Le Pouce (M) 59, 121 individual islands National Park (S) 317 La Saline-les-Bains Le Relais du Maïdo (R) 189 mongooses 140

markets IND (R) 198 Le Souffleur (M) 115 Mont Choisy (M) 64-5, 69 Mahébourg (M) 106-7 Mahébourg (M) 108 Le Tévelave (R) 204-5 Mont-Vert-les-Hauts (R) (M) 49, 56 E Praslin (S) 293 leeches 327 236 X

-Port Mathurin (M) 155  K Kelonia (R) 200 legal matters 147 Morne Blanc (S) 285

Quatre Bornes (M) 62  M Kestrel Valley (M) 119-20 leptospirosis 326 Morne Seychellois National

 ,St-Denis (R) 184 Park (S) 12, 284 kestrels 111, 119, 140, Les Colimaçons (R) 203 St-Paul (R) 186, 188 285, 12 141, 19 Les Hautes Plaines (R) mosques kitesurfing 223-9, 208-9 St-Pierre (R) 231 Attyaboul Massadjid Le Morne Peninsula Les Hauts de St-Paul (R) Victoria (S) 273 mosque (R) 230 (M) 103 188-9 Marla (R) 223 Jummah Mosque (M) 53 Rodrigues (M) 159 Les Makes (R) 206 marrons 207, 256 Mosquée Noor E Islam Tamarin (M) 101 lesbian travellers Martello Tower (M) 92 (R) 179 Mauritius 146 Matthew Flinders Sheikh Mohamed bin Réunion 265 Monument (M) 116 Khalifa Mosque (S) 273 L Seychelles 319 Mauritius 11, 15, 43, 46-153, La Balise Marina (M) 92 motorcycle travel 151-2, 165 Leu Tempo (R) 201 48, 60, 66-7, 86, La Caverne (R) 200 , , mountain biking L’Hermitage-les-Bains (R) 104-5 122 167 La Cayenne (R) 253-4 accommodation 46, Cirque de Cilaos (R) 213 195-8, 196 La Chaloupe St-Leu (R) 144-5 Forêt de Bébour-Bélouve lion fish 328 203 climate 46 (R) 230 Lion Mountain (M) 119 La Crête (R) 241 culture & arts 131-7 Le Maïdo (R) 189 literature 134-5, 259 La Digue (S) 302-9, 322, drinks 137-8 St-Gilles-les-Bains lizards 299 304 embassies & consulates (R) 193 Long Island (S) 279 La Fenêtre (R) 206, 168 146 Moyenne Island (S) 279 La Gaulette (M) 100-2 L’Union Estate & Copra food 46, 47, 137-9, 147 museums Factory (S) 304-5 La Maison de Laurina highlights 48 Blue Penny Museum (R) 240 history 129-31 (M) 53 La Nicolière (M) 121 M holidays 148 Bois Chéri Tea Plantation (M) 118 La Nouvelle (R) 223 magpie robins 299, 316, internet access 146 La Passe (S) 303-4 318 Eco-Musée de internet resources 47 St-Philippe - Au Bon La Petite (R) 189 Maha Shivaratri 20, 100 money 147-8 Roi Louis (R) 244 La Résidence (M) 155 Mahé (S) 273-92, 322, safe travel 148 Espace Culturel 274, 286 La Roche Merveilleuse telephone services 148-9 Muséographique Mahébourg (M) 106-10, (R) 212 tourist offices 149 Dimitile (R) 207 108 La Roche Qui Pleure travel seasons 46 Eureka (M) 11, 59 (M) 114 Maison Carrère (R) 179 travel to/from 150 Frederik Hendrik La Route du Sel (M) 92 Maison des Vins du Chai de Museum (M) 119 Cilaos (R) 212 travel within 47, 150-3 La Route du Thé (M) 117 Kelonia (R) 200 Maison du Curcuma (R) visas 149-50 La Saline-les-Bains (R) La Maison de Laurina 198-200 239 Mauritius Gymkhana Club (M) 62 (R) 240 La Vallée des Couleurs malaria 326 Mauritius kestrels 111, 119, La Saga du Rhum (M) 118 maloya 259 (R) 231 140, 141, 19 La Vanille (M) 117 mangroves 143 measures 146, 267, 321 L’Aventure du Sucre La Vanilleraie (R) 246-7 manta rays 30 (M) 84 medical services 325 Langevin (R) 241 maps 147, 265 Maison Carrère (R) 179 Megavalanche Mountain languages 132, 329-34 marine parks & reserves, Race (R) 190 Maison de la Broderie lava tubes 245 see also national parks (R) 210 & nature reserves meublés de tourisme Laval, Père Jacques 264-5 Maison du Volcan (R) Désiré 58 Aride Island Marine 224 Nature Reserve Michel, James 314 Le Baril (R) 243 Martello Tower (M) 92 (S) 317 microlight flights 210 Le Bélier (R) 222 Mauritius Postal Balaclava Marine Park Mission (S) 284 Le Dimitile (R) 206-8 Museum (M) 53 (M) 143 mobile phones Le Grand Bénare (R) 189 Médine Sugar Factory Blue Bay Marine Park Mauritius 148-9 (M) 87 Le Grand Brûlé (R) 245-6 (M) 110, 143 Réunion 267 Musée de Villèle (R) 194 342 Musée d’Histoire Morne Seychellois Le Labyrinthe En Champ Mauritius, Réunion & Naturelle (R) 179 National Park (S) 12, Thé (R) 240 Seychelles’ islands Musée du Sel & La 284, 285, 12 Sentier Botanique de 43-4 Caverne (R) 200 Réunion 263 Mare Longue (R) 244 travel seasons 16, 20, 21 Musée Léon Dierx Seychelles 317 Sir Seewoosagur Plantation de Vanille Roulof (R) 179 Vallée de Ferney (M) Ramgoolam Botanical (R) 249 Gardens (M) 11, 83,

IND National History 118-19 plants 142-3, 160, 262-3, Museum (M) 107 Vallée de Mai (S) 14, 2, 11 316-17

E Natural History Museum 292-3, 14 parrots 293, 316 Pointe aux Piments (M) 64 X X & Mauritius Institute Veuve Reserve (S) 305 Pas de Bellecombe (R) Pointe de la Table (R) 245 M- 49, 52 227-8 newspapers Pointe d’Esny (M) 110-14, R Natural History Museum Pas des Sables (R) 228  Mauritius 146 173, 173 (S) 274 passports Réunion 267 Pointe du Tremblet (R) 245 Photography Museum Mauritius 149 politics (M) 52 Seychelles 321 Réunion 267 Mauritius 131 Rhumerie de Chamarel Nez de Bœuf (R) 240 Seychelles 321 (M) 97 Nid d’Aigle (S) 303 Réunion 256 Paul & Virginie 61, 82 Robert Edward Hart North Island (S) 310 Rodrigues (M) 165 Pèlerinage à la Vierge au Museum (M) 114 North Point (S) 280 Seychelles 313-14 Parasol (R) 254 SSR Memorial Centre for Pont des Anglais (R) 253 Culture (M) 53 Père Laval’s Shrine (M) population 58 Stella Matutina (R) O Mauritius 132-4 One Eye (M) 103 Pereybère (M) 78-81, 204 79 Réunion 257-8 opening hours Petit Serré (R) 240 music 171 Seychelles 315 Mauritius 148 Petite Île (R) 236 Mauritius 134, 135-6 Port Glaud (S) 288 Réunion 266 philately 53, 56 Réunion 259 Port Louis (M) 49-58, 50-1 Seychelles 320 Phoenix (M) 62 Seychelles 315 Port Mathurin (M) 155, phonecards 267, 320 160-1, 162-3, 161 picnics 197, 257 P Poste de Flacq (M) 128 N Pieter Both (M) 121 national parks & nature paddle boarding 198 Poste Lafayette (M) 128 pink pigeons 111, 119, 141 reserves, see also Pagode Guan Di (R) 179 Praslin (S) 292-302, 322, marine parks & reserves Pailles (M) 58-9 Piton Babet (R) 239 294-5 Aldabra Atoll (S) 312 painting 137, 315 Piton de la Fournaise (R) Provanille (R) 250 10, 226, 227-9, , Aride (S) 299 palm trees 83, 278 227 public holidays 148, 266, 10, 39 Black River Gorges Palmar (M) 125-8 320 National Park (M) 10, Piton de la Petite Rivière Puits Arabe (R) 245 Pamplemousses (M) Noire (M) 98 95-6, 97, 98, 10 82-4 Puits des Anglais (R) 243 Piton d’Enchaing (R) 220 Coin de Mire (M) 80 paradise flycatchers 305, Piton des Neiges (R) 36, Cousin Island (S) 299 311, 316 214, 42 Q Domaine de Bel Ombre paragliding 13, 201, 13 Piton Kapor (R) 228 Quatre Bornes (M) 62 (M) 116 parakeets 141-2 Piton Marmite (R) 222 Domaine de l’Étoile Parc Aventure Chamarel (M) 119 (M) 97 Piton St-Leu (R) 203 R Forêt de Bébour-Bélouve parks & gardens, see also Plaine des Sables (R) 228 rabies 326 (R) 230, 40 national parks & nature Plaine-des-Cafres (R) radio 223-7 François Leguat Reserve reserves Mauritius 146 Plaine-des-Grègues (R) (M) 155, 157 Botanical Gardens Réunion 267 (S) 273 239 Grande Montagne Seychelles 321 Nature Reserve Conservatoire Botanique Plaine-des-Palmistes rafting 169, 251, (M) 157 National de Mascarin (R) 229 168-9 Île aux Aigrettes (M) 15, (R) 203-4 planning ragga 136 110-11, 112 Jardin de l’État (R) 179 budgeting 17, 47, 176, 271 Ramgoolam, Navin 131 Île aux Cocos (M) 158 Jardin des 5 Sens calendar of events 20-1 Ramgoolam, Seewoosagur 53, 131 Île aux Serpents (M) (M) 158 children, travel with 145-6, 80 Jardins de la Compagnie 265, 319 Rault Biscuit Factory (M) 107 Île Ronde (M) 80 (M) 49 diving 27-34 religion Mauritius 143 Le Barachois (R) 179 hiking in Réunion 35-42 Mauritius 134 Le Jardin d’Eden (R) 195 internet resources 17 Réunion 258-9 Le Jardin des Parfums et itineraries 22-6 des Épices (R) 244 Seychelles 315 Map Pages 000 Mauritius, Réunion & Le Jardin du Roi (S) Seychelles basics reptiles 140 Photo Pages 000 285-6 16-17 resorts 145 343 Réunion 44, 175-269, 177, Mauritius 58, 83, 87, Île Cocos (S) 306 taxes 147 187, 237, 247 97, 117 Île Souris (S) 287 taxis accommodation 175, Réunion 249 La Digue (S) 306 Mauritius 153 263-5 Seychelles 286-7 Praslin (S) 293 Rodrigues (M) 165 climate 175 Ste Anne Marine  Seychelles 322 consulates 265 National Park (S) 279 S tea 138 culture & arts 257-9 INDEX  & safety 152-3, see also St-Gilles-les-Bains (R) tea factories drinks 176, 261 individual islands 192-3 plantations 118, 284 food 175, 176, 259-61 sailing 302 Souillac (M) 114-16 Teemeedee 15, 21 -highlights 177 Sakifo (R) 231 Souza, Carl de 135 telephone services  R history 255-7 Salazie (R) 218 spas Mauritius 148-9  T holidays 266 sea urchins 327 Grand Baie (M) 72 Réunion 267 internet access 265 Pereybère (M) 78 seafood 13, 315-16, 13 Seychelles 320 Pointee d Flacq (M) 126 internet resources 176 séga 135, 259 tenrecs 262, 316 money 266 seggae 134, 135 St Aubin (M) 117, 13 Terrese d 7 Couleurs (M) 96-7 safe travel 266-7 Sentiere d Roche-Plate St Expédit 258 telephone services 267 (R) 189 St Géran 82, 129 theft 148 tourist offices 267 Sentier Scout (R) 223 St Pierre Islet (S) 299 theme parks travel seasons 175 Seychelles 14, 44, 270-322, stamps 53, 56 Domaine Les Pailles travel to/from 268 272, 276, 281, 286, St-André (R) 248-50 (M) 58-9 travel within 268-9 304, 310, 311, 312 stargazing 206 Le u Relais d Maïdo (R) 189 visas 267 accommodation 270, St-Benoît (R) 250-2 L’Union Estate & Copra rhum arrangé 261 318-19 St-Denis (R) 12, 178-86, Factory (S) 304-5 Ripailles (M) 121 climate 270 180-1, 12 time 16, 149, 320 Rivieree d Rempart (M) 121 culture & arts 314-15 Ste Anne Island (S) 279 tipping 148, 266 Rivière des Remparts drinks 316 Ste Anne Marine National Topize, Joseph 134 (R) 240 embassies & consulates Park (S) 279 tortoises & turtles 30, Rivièreu d Mât (R) 218 319 Ste-Anne (R) 253 2, 31 Rivière Langevin (R) 241 food 270, 271, 315-16, Ste-Rose (R) 253-5 Mauritius 111, 117, 140, 320 Ste-Suzanne (R) 246-8 Rivière Noire (M) 92-5 141, 155, 157 highlights 272 St-Gilles-les-Bains (R) Rivulet Terre Rouge  Réunion 200 Bird Sanctuary (M) 64 history 313-14 191-5, 192 Seychelles 299, 311, holidays 320 stonefish 328 Roche Verre Bouteille 312, 316 (R) 186 internet access 319 St-Philippe (R) 243-5 Tour des Cirques (R) 41-2 ,Roche-Plate (R) 223, 240 internet resources 271 St-Pierre (R) 230-5 tourist information 149, money 319-20 rock climbing 85, 213 232 164, 267, 320 safe travel 320 ,Rodrigues (M) 14, 44, St-Joseph (R) 238-9 travel to/from Mauritius 154-66, 155, 156 telephone services 320 St-Leu (R) 13, 200-3 Réunion & Seychelles accommodation 154, tourist offices 320 St-Louis (R) 206 17, see also individual 159-62 travel seasons 270 St-Paul (R) 186, 188 islands activities 158-9 travel to/from 321 SUBIOS Underwater travel within Mauritius, climate 154 travel within 321-2 Festival (S) 275 Réunion & Seychelles 17, see also individual food 154, 162-4 visas 321 submarine rides 65-6 islands highlights 155 shark attacks 201, 255, sugar 84, 87, 129, 131, trekking, see hiking history 165-6 328 206, 249 Trevassa Monument internet access 164 shark-spotting 14, 281, surfing (M) 116 shopping 164 289, 14 Mauritius 101, 103 Trois Frères (S) 285 ,sights 155-8 shopping 65, 164, 333 Réunion 198, 201 Trou aux Biches (M) 64, tourist offices 164 Silhouette (S) 310, 310 205 67-70, 69  tours 159 Sir Seewoosagur Trou aux Cerfs (M) 62 travel seasons 154 Ramgoolam Botanical Gardens (M) 11, 83, T Trou d’Argent (M) 158 travel to/from 164-5 tables d’hôtes 13, 138 2, 11 Trou d’Eau Douce (M) travel within 165 Takamaka Bay (S) 286-7 skydiving1 7 120-5 Rose Hill (M) 62 Takamaka Viewpoint slavery 207, 256, 313 Trou Noir (R) 241 Round Island (S) 279 (R) 251 snorkelling 34, 169 turtles, see tortoises & Route Forestière des Tamarin (M) 92-5 turtles Baie Ternay (S) 280-1 Tamarins (R) 204 Tamarin Falls (M) 99 TV 146, 267, 321 Beau Vallon (S) 280-1 rum 137-8, 176, 231, 261 Tamil festivals 248 Félicité (S) 306 rum distilleries Tatayah, Vikash 141 Île aux Cerfs (M) 112 344 V museums 224 Cascade Niagara (R) Rodrigues (M) 159 vacations 148, 266, 320 Piton de la Fournaise (R) 247 Tamarin (M) 101 vaccinations 324 10, 226, 227-9, 227, Chamarel (M) 97 wine 212, 216, 261 Vacoas (M) 62 10, 39 Rochester Falls (M) 114 women in Mauritius 132-3 Vallée de Ferney (M) Piton des Neiges (R) 36, Tamarin Falls (M) 99 women in Réunion 258 118-19 214, 42 Trou de Fer 230 women in Seychelles

IND Vallée de Mai (S) 14, Trou aux Cerfs (M) 62 weather 16, 20, 21, see also 314-15 292-3, 14 volunteering 141, 321 individual islands women travellers 150, E

X X vanilla industry 246-7, 249, Vrot, Françoise 137 websites, see internet 268, 321

V 250, 252 resources  - Z vegetarian & vegan weights 146, 267, 321  travellers W whale-shark spotting 14, Y walking, see hiking yellow fever 326 Mauritius 138-9 281, 289 water 159, 327 Réunion 260-1 whale-watching 191-2 waterfalls Seychelles 316 white-water rafting 169, Z Alexandra Falls (M) 98 Veuve Reserve (S) 305 168-9 ziplining 159 Bassin Boeuf (R) 247 wildlife 18, see also Victoria (S) 273-8, 276 zoos Bassin La Mer (R) 250 individual species Vieux Grand Port (M) Casela Nature & Leisure Bassin La Paix (R) 250 118, 119 Mauritius 139-43 Park (M) 85, 87 Cascade Biberon (R) 229 Vincendo (R) 241-2 Réunion 262-3 Croc Parc (R) 205 Cascade de la Grande visas 149-50, 267, 321 Seychelles 316-17 La Vanille (M) 117 Ravine (R) 241 volcanoes windsurfing Cascade Délices (R248 Le Grand Brûlé (R) La Saline-les-Bains Cascade du Voile de 245 (R) 198 la Mariée (R) 218, Mauritius 139 Le Morne Peninsula 224, 37 (M) 103

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 336

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OUR READERS Anthony Ham Thanks to Glenn van der Knijff for sending me Many thanks to the travellers who used here, and to David Andrew for bird-watching the last edition and wrote to us with help­ tips. Special thanks to Dr Vikash Tatayah of ful hints, useful advice and interesting the Mauritian Wildlife Foundation, Diane La- anecdotes: boucherie and Raj Somma (Île aux Aigrettes), Sarah Clarke, Anna Donaghy, Veronique Veronique and Stefanie (Blue Bay), Amanda M d’Unienville, Frank Gloor, Jose Guichard, Angie Waterstone (Rodrigues) and Veronique and Juttner-Hart, Peter Levin, Joyce Mcmahon, Guillaume (Rodrigues). Thanks to Ron and Jan Carly Reeves, Dave Simpson, Didier Zurwerra for welcoming us back home so warmly. And to Marina, Carlota and Valentina – os quiero, os AUTHOR THANKS quiero, os quiero.

Jean-Bernard Carillet ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thanks to Glenn van der Knijff for his support Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, and dedication, and to the production team, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated especially Brigitte, Barbara and the carto team. World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Special thanks to Jean-Paul, Axelle and the Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System kids in St-Paul for their help with logistics and Sciences, 11, 1633¬44. camaraderie. I’m also grateful to Anais, Emilie, Cover photograph: Boats at Tamarin, Mavreen and Ravinia Larue. And to Chris and Mauritius, AMK/Getty Images Eva – un gros bisou. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 337

Commissioning Editors Will Assisting Editors Judith THIS BOOK Gourlay, Suzannah Shwer, Bamber, Paul Harding This 8th edition of Lonely Glenn van der Knijff Cover Research Planet’s Mauritius, Réunion Coordinating Editors Naomi Parker & Seychelles guidebook was Carolyn Boicos, Monique Internal Image Research

researched and written by Perrin IND B Kylie McLaughlin Jean-Bernard Carillet and E

Senior Cartographer Corey H Language Content Anthony Ham. The previous Hutchison edition was written by Jean- Branislava Vladisavljevic Coordinating Layout

Bernard Carillet and Brandon T Designer Joseph Spanti Presser, while the 6th edition Thanks to Ryan Evans, H Managing Editor Brigitte E was written by Tom Masters Larissa Frost, Bronwyn Hicks, Ellemor SC and Jean-Bernard Carillet. This Genesys India, Jouve India, guidebook was commissioned Senior Editors Catherine E

Andi Jones, Trent Paton, N Naghten, Karyn Noble in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne Kerrianne Southway, E office, and produced by the Managing Cartographer Samantha Tyson, Gerard S following: Adrian Persoglia Walker Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler

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