Trip report: Victoria River District

Micha Jackson and Amanda Lilleyman

31st July – 4th August 2020

The Victoria River District is one of the most lovely and most accessible birding spots in the Top End, situated about 500km south of Darwin on the Victoria , which eventually ends up in northeastern WA.

We scheduled our trip to arrive at the Katherine Poo Ponds on Friday afternoon, hoping for views of the first-ever Citrine Wagtail in the . There we met up with Katherine local birder- extraordinaire Marc Gardner, who had found the bird the previous weekend. We were also met by a group of local Darwin birders, Katherine locals, some visiting birdwatchers from interstate and some very keen twitchers that drove up from . So, there we were, scopes and bins lined up against the fence of the poo ponds scanning for a wagtail. But as goes with twitching, we did not find the wagtail. We dipped. Instead we were treated to an assortment of waterbirds using the sewage works, and also some interesting bush birds just behind us, including a Grey Fantail (a dry season migrant in low numbers in the Top End), Arafura Fantail, Shining Flycatcher, Leaden Flycatcher, Paperbark Flycatcher, Willie Wagtail and awesome views of a Collared Sparrowhawk (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S71972922). We counted all birds at the site until it was dark and then decided on dinner at the Golf Club before retiring to our camp at Shady Lane on Gorge Road.

The next morning, we were up early to meet Marc and others to search for Crested Shrike-tit on the Central , and we had great success with one stunning individual (northern subspecies lifer for Amanda). We also had great views of Black-tailed Treecreeper, Yellow-tinted Honeyeater and Varied Sittella, just to name a few (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72097249). We moved on to Chainman Creek at Manbulloo, just west of Katherine along the in search of the Chestnut-backed Buttonquail. We walked through the grass on the northern side of the highway along a flush line. We were lucky to flush nine birds (lifer for Amanda) and Marc taught us about button- quail roosts (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72097240).

After a brief stop for fuel and final supplies (ice cream, tea and then lunch) we hit the road west towards Timber Creek. We arrived just after 3 pm and went straight to the airstrip to see what was around. We were happy to see that the perimeter of the airstrip had been recently graded and we could comfortably drive around it in our 2WD Corolla. The afternoon at the airstrip was a gentle reintroduction to western Top End birds as we had to get our eyes in on juvenile finches. A small flock of young had us briefly confused! It was a really nice hour of birding with lots of quality species, star bird was Diamond Dove, but we did note the lack of finches (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72097255). We wanted to use up the rest of daylight in a productive manner, so we quickly moved to the Bradshaw Bridge where we had stacks of Crimson Finch, Doubled- barred Finch, Chestnut-breasted Mannikin, and then the star of the afternoon: Purple-crowned Fairy- wren (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72097258)! We both felt relieved as that was a target bird of the trip, so it was great to have it on the first day at Timber. We were feeling lucky, so we thought we’d move on to the Bullita Access Road for a quick reconnaissance before deciding on our itinerary for the next few days. We spent the rest of the available daylight watching a cloud of Woodswallows overhead (Masked and Black-faced), more Diamond Dove, Cockatiel, and an assortment of honeyeaters (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72097262). We finished the day feeling content with our efforts and ready for a quiet night at camp. We drove to Big Horse Camp site just beyond Timber Creek township and were surprised to see a mostly vacant campground. Some hoons arrived just on dusk and proceeded to make a racket all night… Nevertheless, we were geared up for an early start and full day of birding ahead.

We started our morning back at the airstrip and what a great decision that was as we hit the birding jackpot. First up we flushed two Budgerigars from a small tree as we drove along the perimeter of the airstrip, then we got onto some Tawny Grassbird, Golden-headed Cisticola, Black-faced Woodswallow, a cloud of 300 Star Finch, along with 14 Masked Finch, 4 Chestnut-breasted Mannikins, 2 Yellow- rumped Mannikins AND 14 Pictorella Mannikins. Now that was the finch bonanza we were hoping for! The Pictorella Mannikins were lifer birders for Amanda! We also heard our first Red-browed Pardalote for the trip, so that was a nice addition to our morning (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72097265). Once we had our finch-full, we moved to the where we were treated to more Budgies, Cockatiel, Black-tailed Treecreepers, Red-backed Fairy-wrens, a family of Grey-crowned Babblers, and more Red-browed Pardalote, and 1 Singing Honeyeater that had us chasing it for 15 minutes trying to get a photo in the hope it was actually a Grey-headed Honeyeater… (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72112784). It was easy birding in the mid-morning heat along the first 5 km of the highway.

Pictorella Mannikin at the Timber Creek airstrip.

Red-browed Pardalote along the Buchanan Highway.

After our cracking morning in Timber Creek we headed to Victoria River and set up camp at the Roadhouse. After a bit of afternoon R&R (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72091407) we did the Judbarra / Gregory National Park--Escarpment Walk in the late afternoon. While not particularly birdy (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72091482) we were happy with a sighting of two Northern Rosella, particularly as the roadhouse owners mentioned that they had nested at the roadhouse this season, and a gorgeous encounter with a mum and bub Short-eared Rock-wallaby. Overnight we were treated to a chorus of Southern Boobook Owls. We kicked off our last full day of birding at Campbell Springs. While we missed the target Black Bittern, the area was fairly birdy (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72091600) and we were lucky enough to catch a pair of Brown Goshawk mating. A outing got us ~60 Diamond Dove, 3 Bustard, Singing Honeyeater and assorted other goodies, though it was not particularly finchy (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72091633). A stop at Willaroo Station’s watering hole allowed for amusing viewing of over a hundred Cockatiel and a noisy group of Apostlebirds (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72091645).

Cockatiel at Willaroo dam.

An afternoon walk at the Judbarra/Gregory National Park Joe Creek walk yielded calls of White-quilled Rock-pigeon and another pair of Northern Rosellas, as well as a few Short-eared Rock-wallaby in the distance, though no sign of Sandstone Shrikethrush (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72091840). An early start on our last morning at the roadhouse and old Victoria River Crossing bridge finally yielded great views of Purple-crowed Fairy-Wren, with a male vigorously defending his territory (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72091846). Azure Kingfisher and Olive-backed Oriole were also nice to see. Another stop at the Willaroo watering hole yielded at least 200 Cockatiels and ~20 Budgies (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72091852). A productive few stops along the first few kilometres of the Buntine Highway yielded a Crested Shrike-tit, though still only small numbers of finches (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72091865). En route back to Darwin, we were unable to rustle up Gouldian Finches during a hot walk at Edith Falls road (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72094330), though we were surprised by three Brolgas, which walked into the bush on our arrival. Great Bowerbird also gave us amusing renditions of Whistling Kite, Kookaburra, Brown Honeyeater, and Blue-faced (White-quilled) Honeyeater. A final stop in the Pine Creek township yielded nice views of Hooded Parrot, as usual (ebird list: https://ebird.org/checklist/S72094554).

We arrived back in Darin early evening very happy with our extended weekend of birding!

Short-eared Rock-wallaby at Judbarra/Gregory National Park Escarpment Walk.

An unusual site – Brolgas in the bush at Edith Falls Road.

Crested Shrike-tit on the Buntine Highway.

Hooded Parrot at Pine Creek.

Purple-crowned Fairy-wren at the Victoria River Roadhouse.