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“Viva Colonia!” “Viva Colonia!” Köln, Photograph by Tobias Franz (CC BY 2.0) Our third and final overnight trip of the semester will take us west across Germany to Cologne (“Köln”). Originally founded by the Romans in 50 AD as “Colonia,” this city is one of Germany’s oldest and has a turbulent history shaped by periods of growth as well as decline, political subjugation and independence. Cologne’s strategic location along the artery of the Rhine river made it one of the most important centers of trade and production north of the Alps for the Roman Empire as well as later occupiers in the Middle Ages, such as the Franks. At the end of the 13th century, Cologne’s citizens and wealthy merchants, boosted by the city’s prosperous role in the Hanseatic League, stripped the Archbishop of much of his rule over the city. During its heyday in the 14th and 15th centuries, Cologne witnessed a burgeoning trade scene, the growth of arts and religious scholarship, and the creation of Europe’s first municipal university. By 1475, Cologne became recognized as a free imperial city. However, changing geopolitical winds in the 1800s shifted Cologne’s fortunes, pushing it into recession. The city became part of the German Empire in 1871. Cologne’s hopes of industrial boom were abruptly interrupted by World War I and World War II. The rise of the Third Reich in 1933 saw all political opposition, including Konrad Adenauer, who was Cologne’s mayor and future chancellor of West Germany, removed from power and the city’s Jewish citizens forced to flee or face deportation to concentration camps. During World War II, Cologne faced hundreds of air raids that left the city in ruins. Over the past 70 years, Cologne has experienced a number of reconstruction phases. Cologne’s ecclesiastical traditions are still evident, most prominently in the towering spires of the city’s cathedral which dominate the skyline. In 1996, the cathedral was labeled a UNESCO World Heritage site, which is now Cologne’s most recognized landmark. The city is also one of Germanyʼs most important media cities. Cinema, television (both public and commercial) as well as radio have strong traditions there, partly dating back to the post-war period. So whether you are interested in Cologne’s religious traditions, political transitions, economic history, or rising media and technology sector, the city has much to offer. Cologne’s Rhine harbor, Photograph by dronepicr (CC by 2.0) Cologne is also one of Germany’s carnival strongholds with one of the biggest carnival celebrations of all of Europe. The so-called “fifth season” is officially declared open at 11 minutes past 11 on the 11th of the 11th month and reaches its peak with a week-long street festival between Fat Thursday and Ash Wednesday, including the overtaking of city hall and temporary disempowering of the mayor, followed by parades and masquerades. The typical greeting during the festival is “Kölle Alaaf!”, a Kölsch (the local dialect) phrase supposedly meaning “Cologne above all!”. Kölner Karneval, both photographs by Marco Verch (CC BY 2.0) Sources and recommended readings: https://www.cologne-tourism.com/attractions-culture/city-history/history-of-cologne.html https://www.britannica.com/place/Cologne-Germany http://www.cologne.de/history-of-cologne.html http://www.nytimes.com/2012/04/01/travel/36-hours-cologne-germany.html https://www.lonelyplanet.com/germany/north-rhine-westphalia/cologne https://www.nomadicmatt.com/travel-guides/germany-travel-tips/cologne/ Recommendations: ● Cologne Cathedral: the Kölner Dom is the city’s most well-known landmark and certainly ​ deserves a visit ● Urban exploring: walk through Ehrenfeld or Belgian Quarter for galleries and street art ​ ● Museums: get your art fix at Museum Ludwig or satisfy your sweetest desires at the ​ ​ Chocolate Museum ● Ecco: restaurant offering a great brunch buffet including vegan and gluten-free options ​ ● Die Ex-Vertretung: bar and restaurant in Cologne’s Old Town and formerly patronized by ​ local political leaders ● Schmitz: this cafe-restaurant-butchery-museum-bar combo spread across three historic ​ row houses has all you need for a relaxing drink, bite to eat, and wifi while you watch Cologne’s local hipsters go by Recipe “Himmel un Ääd” (Source: https://germanfoods.org/recipe/heaven-and-earth/) ​ ​ Note: Literally translated, this dish means “Heaven and Earth.” The name is derived from the 18th century word “Erdapfel” (earth apple) for potatoes. In typical Cologne style, this is served with blood sausage; however, you can serve it with any main course meat dish. You can make this a vegetarian dish by either removing the bacon or replacing it with tofu. Ingredients (serving 4 people) ​ ​ ● 1 lb floury potatoes ● 2 lbs tart dessert apples ● 1 tablespoon butter ● 1 tablespoon oil ● 4 oz bacon chopped ● 1 large onion chopped ● sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Preparation ● Boil the potatoes in salted water for about 15 minutes until just tender. Drain then press through a potato ricer or mash well. ● Meanwhile cook the apples in about 4 tablespoons of water with a little butter, stirring occasionally until they break down to a purée. Mix into the potatoes and season well. Set aside to keep warm. ● Heat the oil in a frying pan and sauté the bacon for about 5 to 7 minutes until cooked and crisp. Scoop on top of the potato-apple mix. Add the onion to the pan and sauté for 5 minutes until softened and golden. ● Mix these into the potato and apple, check the seasoning and serve. .
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