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Ankara & Central Anatolia ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Ankara & Central Anatolia Includes ¨ Why Go? Ankara ............. 411 Somewhere between the cracks in the Hittite ruins, the Safranbolu ......... 423 fissures in the Phyrgian burial mounds and the scratches Boğazkale, Hattuşa in the Seljuk caravanserais, the mythical, mighty Turks & Yazılıkaya .........427 raced across this highland steppe with big ideas and bigger Alacahöyük ........ 432 swords. Alexander the Great cut that eponymous knot in Gordian where King Midas displayed his deft golden touch. Çorum ............ 432 Julius Caesar came, saw and conquered, and in Konya, the Amasya ........... 433 whirling dervishes first spun. This central sweep of Turkey Tokat ...............437 was also where Atatürk forged his secular revolution along Sivas ..............440 dusty Roman roads that all lead to Ankara; an underrated capital city and geopolitical centre. Further north through Konya ............. 442 the nation’s fruit bowl, in Safranbolu and Amasya, ‘Otto- mania’ is still in full swing; here wealthy weekenders come to capture a glimmer of a bygone age amid bendy-beamed mansions. Central Anatolia is the meeting point between Best Places to Eat the fabled past and the present – a sojourn here will enlighten and enchant. ¨ Atış Cafe (p426) ¨ Somatçi (p448) ¨ Sema Hanımın Yeri (p442) When to Go Ankara ¨ Balıkçıköy (p418) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall Inches/mm 40/104 5/125 30/86 4/100 20/68 Best Places to 3/75 Sleep 10/50 2/50 ¨ Kahveciler Konağı (p426) 0/32 1/25 -10/14 ¨ Teşup Konak (p436) -20/-4 0 ¨ Hich Hotel (p447) J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨ Deeps Hostel (p417) May–Jun Fruit Jul–Aug Join sum- Dec Konya’s ¨ Derviş Otel (p447) harvest: cherries mer’s crowds of Mevlâna Festival is the size of a baby’s Turkish tourists in a Sufi spectacular fist, apricots the Ottoman towns of extraordinary sweeter than a of Safranbolu and human spirit. baby’s face. Amasya. 410 0 100 km 0 60 miles BLACK SEA Înebolu Cide Ayancîk Sinop (KARADENÎZ) Amasra Küre Daÿlarî Gerze National Park Bafra Burnu Seydiler Azdavay Bafra Bulak Pînarbašî Încir Burnu Mencilis Kasaba Tašköprü Boyabat Cave Încekaya Daday Aqueduct Kastamonu Samsun Safranbolu Yenice Ilgaz Daÿî Altînkaya Terme Yörük Köyü Milli Parkî Barajî Kargî Ünye Karabük Tosya Eskipazar Ilgaz E88 Merzifon Gerede Osmancîk Atkaracala Dörtdivan Çankîrî Amasya Uÿurludaÿ Niksar Çorum Rešadiye ANK Turhal Çubuk Kîzîlîrmak Alacahöyük Tokat Almus Beypazarî Dam Alaca Aydîncîk Pazar Ballîca A Sungurlu Kalecik Artova Cave R Ayaš Ankara Yazîlîkaya A Boÿazkale Sincan Hattuša Yešilyurt & CENTR & Irmak E88 Sulusaray Yîldîzeli Hafik E90 Yozgat Sorgun Gölbašî Kîrîkkale E88 Sekili Sivas Gordion Çamlîk Direkli Polatlî Yerköy Milli Parkî Akdaÿmadeni Balâ Sarîkaya Balîklî A E90 Ulaš Kaplîca L AN L Šarkîšla Kangal Kîršehir Boÿazlîyan Gemerek A Hirfanlî Kîzîlîrmak Divriÿi TOLI Dam (50km) Tuzhisar Konakpînar A Gülšehir Ank Tuz Avanos Cihanbeyli Pînarbašî Gölü Kayseri Gürün Nevšehir Pazarören Acîpînar Ürgüp A Bulak r Cappadocia Gölü Aksaray A Sarayönü Yešilhisar & Centr & Derinkuyu Kadînhanî Sultanhanî Sille Yahyalî Göksun Ašaÿîpînarbašî ehri Niÿde Saimbeyli N E90 Konya A Karapînar l An l Çatalhöyük Gökyurt Ceyhan Andîrîn Kahramanmaraš Hatunsaray Hotamîš Ulukîšla Çiftehan Çumra A Ereÿli Ç Kozan Aslantaš toli Binbîrkilise a Pozantî k Dam Kîlbasan Ayrancî îrs u Seyhan Nehri y Bahçe A Karaman u Hig H lig Ankara & Central Anatolia Highlights H ts 1 Safranbolu (p423) homage to Rumi at the Mevlâna on the Ulu Cami & Darüşşifası Turning back the clocks among Museum then exploring in this out-of-the-way town. Çarşı’s cobblestones and the city’s glut of Seljuk and 6 Amasya (p433) timber-framed houses. Ottoman architecture. Pondering tombs that poke 2 Museum of Anatolian 4 Hattuşa (p428) Hitting out from cliffs above a rim of Civilisations (p411) Brushing the hills in the heartland of restored mansions. up on Turkey’s roots at the Anatolia’s first great empire. 7 Tokat (p437) Meandering country’s premier museum in 5 Divriği (p438) Marvelling crooked alleys to search Ankara. at doorways of sublime artistry out medreses (seminaries), 3 Konya (p442) Paying mosques and museums..
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