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Ankara & Central

Why Go? ...... 397 Somewhere between the cracks in the Hittite ruins, the fi s- ...... 410 sures in the Phyrgian burial mounds and the scratches in Beypazarı ...... 411 the Seljuk , the mythical, mighty Turks raced across this highland desert steppe with big ideas and bad- Safranbolu ...... 411 ass swords. Nearby, Alexander the Great cut the Gordion Kastamonu ...... 418 knot, King Midas displayed his deft golden touch and Ju- Boğazkale, Hattuşa lius Caesar came, saw and conquered. Atatürk forged his & Yazılıkaya ...... 420 secular revolution along dusty Roman roads that all lead Çorum ...... 425 to Ankara, an underrated capital city and geo-political ...... 426 centre. Further north through the nation’s fruitbowl, in Safranbolu and Amasya, ‘Ottomania’ is still in full swing. ...... 430 Here wealthy weekenders sip çay with time-rich locals who ...... 433 preside over dark timber mansions. Central Anatolia is the Divriği ...... 438 meeting point between the fabled past and the prosperous Konya ...... 438 present – a sojourn here will enlighten and enchant. Karaman ...... 447 ...... 448

When to Go Best Places to Stay Ankara » Gül Evi (p414) °C/°F Te m p Rainfall Inches/mm » Angora House Hotel 40/104 5/125 (p 404 ) 30/86 4/100 20/68 » Gordion Hotel (p405) 3/75 10/50 » Emin Efendi Konağı 2/50 0/32 (p 429 ) 1/25 -10/14 » Cinci Hanı (p 414 ) -20/-4 0 J FDNOSAJJMAM

Best Places to Eat May/June Fruit June Summer December The » Taşev (p416 ) harvest: cher- storms light up Mevlâna Festival ries the size of a the twin Ottoman in Konya is a Sufi » Balıkçıköy (p405 ) baby’s fist, apri- towns of Safran- spectacular of » Le Man Kültür (p406 ) cots sweeter than bolu and Amasya. extraordinary » Şehrazat (p432 ) a baby’s face… human spirit. 0 100 km 0 60 miles 396 Înebolu Cide Ayancîk Sinop (KARADENÎZ) Küre Daÿlarî Gerze National Park Bafra Burnu Seydiler Azdavay Bafra Bulak Mencilis Pînarbašî Încir Burnu Maÿarasî Kasaba Boyabat Încekaya Daday Aqueduct Kastamonu Samsun Safranbolu Ilgaz Daÿî Altînkaya Terme Yörük Köyü Milli Parkî Barajî Kargî Ünye Karabuk Tosya E88 Merzifon Gerede Ilgaz Osmancîk Atkaracala Dörtdivan Çankîrî Amasya Uÿurludaÿ Corum Rešadiye Çubuk Kîzîlîrmak Alacahöyük Tokat Pazar Alaca Dam Sungurlu Aydîncîk Ballîca Kalecik Cave Ayaš Ankara Yazîlîkaya

ANKARA & ANATOLIA CENTRAL ANKARA Boÿazkale Yešilyurt Sincan Irmak E88 Hattuša Sulusaray Yîldîzeli Hafik E90 Yozgat Sorgun Gölbašî Kîrîkkale E88 Sivas Gordion Sekili Çamlîk Direkli Polatlî Yerköy Milli Parkî Akdaÿmadeni Balâ Sarîkaya Balîklî E90 Ulaš Kaplîca Šarkîšla Kangal Kîršehir Boÿazlîyan Hirfanlî KîzîlîrmakGemerek To Divriÿi Dam (50km) Kaldîrîmtuzla Sultan Han Konakpînar Tuzhisar Tuz Gülšehir Avanos Cihanbeyli Pînarbašî Gölü Gürün Nevšehir Pazarören Acîpînar Ürgüp Bulak Gölü Aksaray Sarayönü Yešilhisar Derinkuyu Kadînhanî Sultanhanî Sille Yahyalî Göksun Ašaÿîpînarbašî ehri Niÿde Saimbeyli N Konya E90 Gökyurt Çatalhöyük Karapînar (Kilistra) Ceyhan Andîrîn Kahramanmaraš Hatunsaray Hotamîš Ereÿli Ulukîšla Çiftehan Çumra Kozan Binbîrkilise Çak Aslantaš Pozantî Dam Kîlbasan Ayrancî îr su Seyhan Nehri yu Bahçe Karaman

Ankara & Central Anatolia Highlights 1 Join the sentimental Kavaklıdere (p 406),then Konya’s Mevlâna Museum summer tourists in discover the real Turkish roots (p439 ) and whirl till your Ottomanised Safranbolu at the Museum of Anatolian heart’s content (p411 ) Civilisations (p397 ) 6 Dip your toes in eastern 2 Head to Amasya (p426 ) 4 Hit the Hittite hills at and the exfoliating fi sh where Pontic tombs also poke Hattuşa (p422 ) and get your at Balıklı Kaplıca (p437 ) out from craggy cliff s head around ancient Turkish 7 Knock once at the divine history 3 Try your hand at modern- doors at Divriği (p 438 ) day diplomacy in Ankara’s 5 Pay homage to Rumi, trendy Kızılay (p 406) and the founder of Sufi Islam, at