Various ways of St. James (with brochures available in PDF- format) On the Way of St. James

A -Constance - Einsiedeln („Way of Svabia“) in B - Rorschach - Einsiedeln („Way of St. Gallen“) C - Einsiedeln-Flüeli-Ranft - Brünig („Way of Central Switzerland“) D - Brünig-Amsoldingen („Way of the Bernese Oberland“) E - Amsoldingen-Romont („Way of Berne/Friboug“) F - Romont-Lausanne-Genève („Way of Western Swizterland“) G - Lucerne-Rüeggisberg-Schwarzenburg („Lucerne Way“) H - Rankweil - Einsiedeln („Vorarlberg-Appenzell Way“) I - -Tobel („Monastery way“)

Contact address: Verein Jakobsweg.ch Postfach 151, CH-3700 Spiez Tel 0041 (0)33 655 04 00 Mail: [email protected] Accomodation see: www.jakobsweg.ch

Important pointer

Helpers and association members walked the route themselves to inspect it. As volunteers, they edited the brief route descriptions based on the state as encountered. The accuracy of the contents and specially the correspondence with the official Way of St. James way-posting cannot be guaranteed by the association „jakobsweg.ch » and the authors, also in the sense of a product guarantee. Pilgrims are therefore asked to follow the official Way of St. James way-posts if discrepancies occur, and to notify us. (9) „Monastery way“

Many thanks. „„Schaffhausen - Tobel “ “

Texts : Winfried Erbach, Joe Weber and Klaus Augustiny (manuscript reader). Translated from German by Hans Bamert Pictures: Wolfgang Hörer / Winfried Erbach, and several others Itinerary and directions for pilgrims Copyright: Verein „jakobsweg.ch“

©Copyright Verein „jakobsweg.ch,Spiez (Berner Oberland) „Monastery route“ - Schaffhausen - Tobel “ Swiss border - Schaffhausen

The „Neckar-Baar Jakobsweg“, coming from the area of the Neckar river and leading via , Vil- Swiss border - Schaffhausen lingen and Donaueschingen, meets the Swiss border on the hill “Hoher Randen”. On that hill, farm- 14 km, walking time about 3 hrs 30 min. steads are scarce, also inns are practically absent. The pilgrim is well-advised to carry the provisions in the knapsack. A few metres after the border, the path gets wider. We The last places on the German side are the country town of Blumberg (10’000 inhabitants), known for have a stretch of roughly 14 km before us until Schaff- its “Sauschwänzlebahn” (pigtail railway) and the village of Fützen at the foot of the Randen. Blumberg hausen. After only a few minutes, we come to a way- and Schaffhausen are 17 km apart (as the crow flies) and are connected by a bus line of the Regional post indicating a walking time of 2 hours 45 minutes Transport Company of Schaffhausen. Both from Blumberg and from Fützen, there are roads to the for that stretch. We briefly abandon the hiking trail and Klausenhof (Randenhof). This farmstead is 30 minutes north of the Swiss border. On foot from Fützen make a side-trip up to the Hagenturm (tower). If the to the border on the Hoher Randen takes one and a half hour (320m difference in altitude, and 4 km). On the Swiss side, the places from where to start the climb to the Hoher Randen are Beggingen weather is clear, we can see from its trellis platform and Bargen. Both can be reached by bus from Schaffhausen. the Black Forest, the mountains of the Allgäu, Lake The ascent from Beggingen in the Klettgau is shorter, but Constance, the Säntis peak, the mountains of Glarus steeper (1 hr 20 min, 360m difference in altitude), than that Swiss border and Uri and the snow peaks of the Bernese High Alps. from Bargen. The “green border”, lying at an altitude of 900m Back on the hiking trail again, we continue in a southern and situated in a wood, can be crossed without problem, the direction. We proceed through a dark wood and come customs barrier is always open. past Hasenbuck (835m) and Heidenbomm (820m), to The route takes the pilgrims from the Swiss border through the Talisbänkli (840m) which we reach after 1 hour. Bet- hilly terrain first to the nearby Munot town of Schaffhausen, ween Heidenbomm and Talisbänkli, we use the road where the “Thurgauer Klosterweg” begins. It leads through a landscape characterized by rivers and hills through neat on part of the way until we turn off to the hiking trail Wooden bridge i villages and small towns, to the commandery of the Knights leading to the Heidenbänkli. On the right-hand side, of St. John in Tobel. The name “Thurgauer Klosterweg” has its the road leads down into the valley to Hemmental origin in the numerous former monasteries, churches and chapels that lie along the route and that from where a somewhat shorter hiking trail also leads are important in the history of art. These incite the pilgrims to rest and hold communion with oneself. to Schaffhausen. At Talisbänkli, there is a small pavilion Along the way, they will meet with an industrious and open-minded rural population. Its (German) View from the Hagenturm with tables con- dialect is a challenge at first, but soon, helped by the exquisite apple wine, rings pleasantly in the ear. taining information on fauna and flora of the Randen. On big parts of the way, the route follows authentic historical traffic routes. Bar a few exceptions, it We learn that at hidden places, the lady’s shoe pros- follows Swiss hiking routes marked in yellow on the fingerposts. A special marking as “Klosterweg” pers, in bloom from May to June, and that chamois also does not yet exist. Pilgrims are recommended to observe the instructions and the corresponding trail maps. Tobel lies on the Swiss Way of St. James (Swabian Route) coming from Constance and leading live here. via Rapperswil to Einsiedeln. On forest roads, we continue in a south-western di- rection via Guger, Zelgli and Mösli (836m). From there, Important pointer south-eastwards across the road (that leads to Siblin- gen) to the forest path that brings us to the resting The itinerary of the Way of St. James from Randen/Schaffhausen through the canton to Tobel place Hägliloo, one hour after leaving Talisbänkli. Häg- Randen - forest road is described in an abbreviated form. The descriptions were edited and checked by helpers and associ- liloo is at a level of 660m on a clearing offering a good ation members in voluntary work after travelling the route themselves, and based on the situation as outlook. Near the parking space at the mountain road encountered. The accuracy of the contents and especially the concordance with the markings of the coming up from Beringen, we take to the forest path “Schweizer Wanderwege” cannot be guaranteed by the association “jakobsweg.ch” and the authors, also not in the sense of a product liability. In case of discrepancies, pilgrims are therefore asked to to the left leading us through a mature timber stand follow in any case the official yellow fingerposts of the “Schweizer Wanderwege”, and to advise us of into the Eschheimertal. To the right along the edge of such errors. Thank you. the wood, we walk slightly downhill past flowery me- adows until we come to the parking spaces Wolfsbuck Texts: Winfried Erbach, Joe Weber and Otto Dudle (manuscript reader) and Gretzenacker (564m), some 45 minutes after lea- Translated from German by Hans Bamert ving Hägliloo. These parking spaces are situated at the Pictures: Winfried Erbach and others end of the road coming up from Schaffhausen, and Eschheimer valley

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on which we go as far as Lahnbuck (536m). Here, we the railway line, we come to the and reach the leave the road and walk between maize fields in the di- place Langwiesen after 45 minutes, with its resting rection of the town. Soon we reach the first nice villas place and the outlook back to the Munot. From here, and single-family houses at the upper part of the slope the shady lane leads along the Rhine, in part on the above Schaffhausen. The route leads steeply downhill. broad embankment wall, and brings us in 20 minutes Through the mist, the towers of the old city emerge. to “Paradies”. Near the Rhine ferry stands the inn of that Then we come to the town-part Riet (475m) where the name. Passing a paddle wheel, we come to the former city bus just stops. We withstand the temptation and convent of the order of St. Clare, by name of “Paradies”. make it on foot in 25 minutes to the railway station of Today, the convent is a vocational education centre of Schaffhausen Obertor tower Schaffhausen (403m). Monastery „Allerheilgen“ the firm Georg Fischer AG. The convent was endowed in 1257 by the count Hartmann the elder of Kyburg. Schaffhausen-Stammheim The convent church St. Michel can be viewed freely. 18 km, walking time about 5 hours The baroque church is now the parish church of the municipality of Schlatt. The route turns again towards The “Thurgauer Klosterweg” begins at the monaste- the Rhine and after some fields, reaches the Schaaren- ry All Saints in the old town of Schaffhausen. First, it wald, marked as nature preserve. Past a bathing place leads along the Rhine to Diessenhofen, and then via with meadow and fire-place, the route returns into Stammheim and to Tobel. All Saints was the wood. On an instruction path we learn that even founded in 1049 by count Eberhard von Nellenburg. the rare lady’s shoe can be found, and that the king- At first, we enter the former monastery church (today Abbey „Kreuzgang“ fisher breeds in the reeds. Partly as a shore-path with reformed minster). The roman pillared basilica with its wooden gangway that cannot be used in high water, three naves, built around 1100, makes a weighty im- and partly as a wide cycling road (some metres to the pression. Red and gray sandstone blocks alternate in right), the route leads through a wonderful river and Fronwag square the arches. Three reed-grass landscape until St. Katharinental. For the tomb slabs on the stretch from Paradies to here, we need 1 hour and 20 ground indicate where count Eberhard and his wife Ita minutes. and their son Burkhard lie. Part of the medieval wall The former convent of the Dominican nuns Katha- paintings are still preserved, such as the Credo frieze rinental now serves the canton as a clinic. The café in (15th century) a profession of faith, and on the big pil- the former refectory, or in the shady convent garden, is lar Mary with Child (around 1400). We leave the church Schiller‘s Bell open to the public. The convent goes back to a Beguin and enter the roman cloister of the former Benedictine community that migrated around 1230 from to Diessenhofen, and from there abbey. It is the biggest in Switzerland, built some time downriver in 1251. In 1245, they were integrated into the order of the Dominican nuns. after 1100. In the inner court, we find the Schiller bell Bay house The church was consecrated in 1257 by Albertus Magnus. Here, in 1312, the gradual of (1486) that is said to have inspired the German poet to St. Katharinental came into being, one of the most im- his poem about the “Glocke” (bell). In the herb garden, portant gothic manuscripts of Switzerland. In the cor- innumerable medicinal herbs spread their scent. Here ridors of the clinic, we find on the walls copies of the is also the minster chapel (St. Anna) and the arcade, old writings (the originals are in the National Museum both from the 12th century. Those who have enough in Zürich). The former convent church was rebuilt in time can also visit the extensive museum (open Tues- 1732-35 and has rich baroque furnishings, some of day to Sunday, 11 – 17 hrs). which are protected by railings. We cross the Rhine near the landing stage (392m) and On the beautiful shore-path, we reach the small me- walk on the Zürcherstrasse and Diessenhoferstras- dieval town of Diessenhofen in about 15 minutes. It Munot tower se through the suburb Feuerthalen. Passing under has a well-preserved old town with towers and ram- Langwiese with view on Munot 5 - (K) Hoher Randen - Schaffhausen - Tobel - jakobsweg.ch (K) Hoher Randen - Schaffhausen - Tobel - jakobsweg.ch - 6 Schaffhausen - Stammheim Diessenhofen - Stammheim - Frauenfeld

parts. On the way there, we see the covered wooden flowers. On the rise, we become the reformed church bridge over the Rhine, first documented in 1292, but into view. After a few steep road curves, we can enter subsequently destroyed or damaged several times, the church surrounded by vineyards. The spire and the the last time in 1945. choir date back to the time around 1515. The nave was After an open-air café in front of the landing stage rebuilt in 1780. We descend a few metres and then fol- (397m), we climb the 52 steps up to the church of St. low a little road that leads along the slope below the Dionysus, first mentioned in documents in the year vineyards to the Antonius chapel, built 1942. We pro- 757. The oldest parts of today’s building date from ceed to where, heeding the finger- about 1200. The church was reconstructed in 14-15th post, we come to the Gallus chapel. 50 steps lead us up Shore way near „Paradies“ century, and again in 1838. A baptismal font from 1527 Diessenhofen to the nice and wonderfully situated chapel. We take and two tomb slabs from 1577 can still be seen. The a rest and enjoy the outlook over the vineyard. Men- townscape of Diessenhofen is characterized by many tioned for the first time in 897, the chapel as it stands historical buildings, the castle-like “Unterhof” (13th dates back to the time around 1300. century), the “Oberhof”, the town hall (1760) and the In the year 1310, the chapel interior was painted all over “Siegelturm” (seal tower) from 1545. Diessenhofen was with scenes from the bible, and at the time of the refor- conferred the status of a town by the count Hartmann mation, in 1524, was painted over. In 1894, the beauti- the Third from Kyburg in 1178. Between 1264 and ful frescoes appeared again thanks to a careless blow 1460, the town was under Habsburg rule, and in 1460, of a stonecutter with the hammer. They were given a it was conquered by the Swiss confederacy. We mana- restoration and classified as historical monument. On Guesthouse „Paradies“ ged the 9 km long way from Schaffhausen to Diessen- St. Georg chapel the north wall, we see Knight George and saint Eligius. hofen in a little under 3 hours. The south wall is decorated with pictures from the life of Jesus. The upper picture linings From Diessenhofen, we now continue in a southern direction. We cross the railway line in show the Genesis, the fall of man, the killing of children of Bethlehem, John baptizes Jesus, an underpass west of the station, and after that, cross the main road on a bridge. The rou- the expulsion of the dealers from the temple, the temptation in the desert, the interroga- te now takes us over fields to Eichbüel and then into tion by Pilate, the flagellation and the crucifixion. The the village of , which we reach after 45 mi- pictures bear a correlation to the Manesse manuscript nutes. After passing the church, we cross the road Dies- and are the work of an unknown master of mysticism. senhofen – Trüllikon and now, on a field road, follow It is difficult to tear oneself away from the pictures. On the course of the romantic Geisslibach (brook) east- the bench in front of the church, we contemplate the wards until we come to . Near the place view yet a while longer. In the Middle Ages, 500 m to “Im Chloster”, we come to the church St. George. This the east, there was a pilgrimage church St. Anna, but church dates back to the 12-13th century and has no- it was demolished at the time of the . To- teworthy rests of wall paintings from the 15th century. day, it is only the field name that bears witness to this We continue our way along the Geisslibach as far as Katarinental house of God. From the Gallus chapel, we walk down Parish church the hamlet of Furtmüli. There, we take the bicycle route to Oberstammheim (445m) and at the crossroads we (a small road used by farmers) and continue until we come to a few nice half-timber houses. At the village come to the motorway which we cross in an underpass fountain, we continue southwards. Soon, a fingerpost and thus come to Unterstammheim. points to the left in the direction of Ürschhausen. Near the Seehof, the route joins the road for a short stretch Stammheim-Frauenfeld (3h 45min.-14 km) and in front of a big parking space, leads down to the 14 km, walking time 3 hrs 45 min Nussbaumer lake. There, we find a small bathing place with barbecue. In Unterstammheim, we come to a crossroads with Using the “Thurgauer Rundwanderweg” trail along nice half-timber houses and a fountain decorated with Famous Graduale the wooded lakeshore, we come through a nature Unterstammheim

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preserve (440m). We learn here that the first traces of monastery corridors, we reach the monks’ houses, the human presence in the Seebach valley go back to the room of the abbot, and the refectory. Here, the monks time around 9’000 – 5’500 before Christ. The first villa- took their meals on Sundays and religious holidays. ge was built 4’000 before Christ. After crossing the road On the other days, the monks ate, slept, worked and Nussbaumen – Ürschhausen, the path turns in the di- prayed in their cell. The tiled stove with biblical motifs, rection of the farmstead Hälfebärg. The passage to the the pattern of the parquetry and the wooden coffer ruin is permitted. The castle Helfenberg is mentioned ceiling were all built between the 16th and 18th cen- in a document of 1331, and fell into decay in the early tury. The visitor gets the impression of being trans- 15th century. On a small road, we walk between the planted into another time. Oberstammheim Hüttwiler See and Hasensee (lakes) in 20 minutes up Carthusian monastery Ittigen We leave Ittingen through the big archway on the to Buch (462m). Buch near Frauenfeld houses the early- southern side and at first follow the road towards the gothic Sebastian chapel with beautiful wall paintings from the time around 1320 (in the left, and after 2 spirit of the time of the Codex Manesse). On the depictions, we can discern Christ’s Passion minutes, change and St. George with the dragon. to a small road on which we walk down to the river Thur. We cross Carthusian monastery of Ittingen it on the Rohrer Opposite the church, a road leads away in an eastern direction. To the right, we turn into a bridge (389m). field path and at the hamlet of Vorderhorbe, we cross the road Buch-Frauenfeld and traver- Carthusian monastery Ittigen In medieval sing a wood, come to the Carthusian monastery of Ittingen. Past the hop fields and the par- times, there was only a ferry service here. In 1864, the Monastery chruch king space, we enter the compound of the former monastery from the western side (416m). last big wooden bridge in the canton of Thurgau was It includes a well-managed inn with garden café and, above all, the museum of Ittingen. built here. In 1920, it was replaced by the first concrete In 1079, the castle of Ittingen was rebuilt after being bridge in the canton. destroyed. An Augustinian monastery came into being To Frauenfeld, there are still 40 minutes to go on a wide in 1150. The church was dedicated to St. Laurentius. In forest path along the river Murg. A sight to see in Frau- 1461, the Carthusian order took over the monastery enfeld is the castle with the donjon from 1230-40. The and built the houses of the monks. In 1524, the time of upper construction in half-timber was added only in the reformation, the complex was severely damaged. late medieval times. In the museum, we see weapons The new church was consecrated in 1553. The magni- and armours, diverse rooms showing bourgeois Choir stalls ficent choir stalls date from around 1700. In 1765, the home furnishings and décor, church equipments and church was altered in the rococo style. In 1848, all the an exhibition of toys. Not far away, at the end of the pedestrian zone stands the catholic monasteries in the Thurgau were closed, and Ittingen Nussbaumersee - Naturschutzgebiet church St. Nicolas, built 1904 in neo-gothic style. In the old town, we find patrician and became an agricultural enterprise. In 1977, a foun- citizen’s houses from the 17th and 18th centuries. dation was created and the complex was renovated. The properties of the foundation include the forest, Frauenfeld Tobel (4h 30min.-15 km) the vineyard, the rose garden, the stables, the confe- 15 km, walking time 4 hrs 30 min rence rooms, the restaurant, the lodging house for people with a psychic handicap, and a guesthouse. The We start our walking tour to the east of the railway station (405m) of the capital of the can- showpiece of the museum is the monastery church. ton of Thurgau. Frauenfeld numbers 20’000 inhabitants. Soon, the route leaves the town It is among the most beautiful creations of the Swiss area and leads eastwards up an incline over fields and through woods. In the wooded “Stä- and South-German rococo. Since it served the monks libuck”, we follow the forest instruction path “Mühle- Kachelofen exclusively, it had neither pulpit nor organ. Through Buch Sebastian-Kapelle tobel”, cross the road of Dingenhart near a resting site,

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and after a climb of one and a half hour, we reach the ter 100m, we come to the Commandery of the Knights highest point of the “Stälibuck” (653m). The iron Stä- of St. John, gray from age. It was founded by count libuck tower, built 1907, stands beside a resting site Diethelm the First from Toggenburg as atonement for with barbecue. Climbing the 148 steps to the highest the fratricide on the nearby castle of Rengerswil near platform of the 27m high lookout tower, we are 250m Wängi. In 1529, during the reformation, pictures and higher than the town and have a magnificent panora- altars were destroyed. The knights of the order left the mic view to Frauenfeld, the Black Forest , the Alpstein commandery, but soon returned. The present building mountains, and as far as the Bernese Alps. dates from the year 1744. The task of the knightly order We descend to Dingenhart, cross the road Thundorf- was to provide care for the pilgrims of St. James, and to Castle tower Frauenfeld and on field and forest paths we come to nurse the sick among them. The church belonging to Commandery of the Knights of St. the hamlet of Chöll with fountain and a half-timber it was dismantled in 1706 and rebuilt higher up be- John house from 1745. We continue through woods and side the old peel tower from the 12th century. The over fields to the hamlet of Sunnenberg. There, on a peel now serves as bell tower. In 2007, the parish celebrated the 300th anniversary of their wooded summit of a hill, stands the castle of Sonnen- church of St. John. In 1809, the commandery became the property of the canton Thurgau berg, first men- who altered it and made of it a house of correction. tioned on docu- ments in 1242. After a big fire in 1595, it was View from the castle rebuilt. Since 1678, it has belonged to the monastery of Einsiedeln, and was sold to a business concern in 2007. It is inten- ded to re-open the restaurant after a renovation, and to let the castle chapel and the stateroom be used for Hamlet Chöli weddings. To the east of the castle, the path leads down through the wood, and in Kalthäusern and Weingarten, it crosses the road to Lommis (475m). Already from far away, we can see the spire of the church of St. James. First mentioned in 1214, this church is an important station for pilgrims of St. James. The original construc- tion was pre-roman and was enlarged in the 12th-13th centuries, and altered in the 15th century. The church also has a burial chapel of the noblemen of Muntprat, Castle Sonnenberg and an Idda chapel. The artfully painted church with the beautiful altars is impressive. Near the St.James church, an agricultural road leads in an eastern direc- tion and passes a big field cross. In 30 minutes, we come to the farmstead “Flügenegg”, a beautiful half- timber construction. We come to a magnificent way- post for the Way of St. James. To Santiago, it is still 2’315 km, to Tobel just one, and we manage it in 15 minutes. In Tobel (523m), we cross the road Wil-Amlikon and af- St.James church i n Lommis 11 - (K) Hoher Randen - Schaffhausen - Tobel - jakobsweg.ch (K) Hoher Randen - Schaffhausen - Tobel - jakobsweg.ch - 12