On the Way of St. James in Switzerland
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Various ways of St. James (with brochures available in PDF- format) On the Way of St. James A -Constance - Einsiedeln („Way of Svabia“) in Switzerland B - Rorschach - Einsiedeln („Way of St. Gallen“) C - Einsiedeln-Flüeli-Ranft - Brünig („Way of Central Switzerland“) D - Brünig-Amsoldingen („Way of the Bernese Oberland“) E - Amsoldingen-Romont („Way of Berne/Friboug“) F - Romont-Lausanne-Genève („Way of Western Swizterland“) G - Lucerne-Rüeggisberg-Schwarzenburg („Lucerne Way“) H - Rankweil - Einsiedeln („Vorarlberg-Appenzell Way“) I - Schaffhausen-Tobel („Monastery way“) Contact address: Verein Jakobsweg.ch Postfach 151, CH-3700 Spiez Tel 0041 (0)33 655 04 00 Mail: [email protected] Accomodation see: www.jakobsweg.ch Important pointer Helpers and association members walked the route themselves to inspect it. As volunteers, they edited the brief route descriptions based on the state as encountered. The accuracy of the contents and specially the correspondence with the official Way of St. James way-posting cannot be guaranteed by the association „jakobsweg.ch » and the authors, also in the sense of a product guarantee. Pilgrims are therefore asked to follow the official Way of St. James way-posts if discrepancies occur, and to notify us. (9) „Monastery way“ Many thanks. „„Schaffhausen - Tobel “ “ Texts : Winfried Erbach, Joe Weber and Klaus Augustiny (manuscript reader). Translated from German by Hans Bamert Pictures: Wolfgang Hörer / Winfried Erbach, and several others Itinerary and directions for pilgrims Copyright: Verein „jakobsweg.ch“ ©Copyright Verein „jakobsweg.ch,Spiez (Berner Oberland) „Monastery route“ - Schaffhausen - Tobel “ Swiss border - Schaffhausen The „Neckar-Baar Jakobsweg“, coming from the area of the Neckar river and leading via Rottweil, Vil- Swiss border - Schaffhausen lingen and Donaueschingen, meets the Swiss border on the hill “Hoher Randen”. On that hill, farm- 14 km, walking time about 3 hrs 30 min. steads are scarce, also inns are practically absent. The pilgrim is well-advised to carry the provisions in the knapsack. A few metres after the border, the path gets wider. We The last places on the German side are the country town of Blumberg (10’000 inhabitants), known for have a stretch of roughly 14 km before us until Schaff- its “Sauschwänzlebahn” (pigtail railway) and the village of Fützen at the foot of the Randen. Blumberg hausen. After only a few minutes, we come to a way- and Schaffhausen are 17 km apart (as the crow flies) and are connected by a bus line of the Regional post indicating a walking time of 2 hours 45 minutes Transport Company of Schaffhausen. Both from Blumberg and from Fützen, there are roads to the for that stretch. We briefly abandon the hiking trail and Klausenhof (Randenhof). This farmstead is 30 minutes north of the Swiss border. On foot from Fützen make a side-trip up to the Hagenturm (tower). If the to the border on the Hoher Randen takes one and a half hour (320m difference in altitude, and 4 km). On the Swiss side, the places from where to start the climb to the Hoher Randen are Beggingen weather is clear, we can see from its trellis platform and Bargen. Both can be reached by bus from Schaffhausen. the Black Forest, the mountains of the Allgäu, Lake The ascent from Beggingen in the Klettgau is shorter, but Constance, the Säntis peak, the mountains of Glarus steeper (1 hr 20 min, 360m difference in altitude), than that Swiss border and Uri and the snow peaks of the Bernese High Alps. from Bargen. The “green border”, lying at an altitude of 900m Back on the hiking trail again, we continue in a southern and situated in a wood, can be crossed without problem, the direction. We proceed through a dark wood and come customs barrier is always open. past Hasenbuck (835m) and Heidenbomm (820m), to The route takes the pilgrims from the Swiss border through the Talisbänkli (840m) which we reach after 1 hour. Bet- hilly terrain first to the nearby Munot town of Schaffhausen, ween Heidenbomm and Talisbänkli, we use the road where the “Thurgauer Klosterweg” begins. It leads through a landscape characterized by rivers and hills through neat on part of the way until we turn off to the hiking trail Wooden bridge i Diessenhofen villages and small towns, to the commandery of the Knights leading to the Heidenbänkli. On the right-hand side, of St. John in Tobel. The name “Thurgauer Klosterweg” has its the road leads down into the valley to Hemmental origin in the numerous former monasteries, churches and chapels that lie along the route and that from where a somewhat shorter hiking trail also leads are important in the history of art. These incite the pilgrims to rest and hold communion with oneself. to Schaffhausen. At Talisbänkli, there is a small pavilion Along the way, they will meet with an industrious and open-minded rural population. Its (German) View from the Hagenturm with tables con- dialect is a challenge at first, but soon, helped by the exquisite apple wine, rings pleasantly in the ear. taining information on fauna and flora of the Randen. On big parts of the way, the route follows authentic historical traffic routes. Bar a few exceptions, it We learn that at hidden places, the lady’s shoe pros- follows Swiss hiking routes marked in yellow on the fingerposts. A special marking as “Klosterweg” pers, in bloom from May to June, and that chamois also does not yet exist. Pilgrims are recommended to observe the instructions and the corresponding trail maps. Tobel lies on the Swiss Way of St. James (Swabian Route) coming from Constance and leading live here. via Rapperswil to Einsiedeln. On forest roads, we continue in a south-western di- rection via Guger, Zelgli and Mösli (836m). From there, Important pointer south-eastwards across the road (that leads to Siblin- gen) to the forest path that brings us to the resting The itinerary of the Way of St. James from Randen/Schaffhausen through the canton Thurgau to Tobel place Hägliloo, one hour after leaving Talisbänkli. Häg- Randen - forest road is described in an abbreviated form. The descriptions were edited and checked by helpers and associ- liloo is at a level of 660m on a clearing offering a good ation members in voluntary work after travelling the route themselves, and based on the situation as outlook. Near the parking space at the mountain road encountered. The accuracy of the contents and especially the concordance with the markings of the coming up from Beringen, we take to the forest path “Schweizer Wanderwege” cannot be guaranteed by the association “jakobsweg.ch” and the authors, also not in the sense of a product liability. In case of discrepancies, pilgrims are therefore asked to to the left leading us through a mature timber stand follow in any case the official yellow fingerposts of the “Schweizer Wanderwege”, and to advise us of into the Eschheimertal. To the right along the edge of such errors. Thank you. the wood, we walk slightly downhill past flowery me- adows until we come to the parking spaces Wolfsbuck Texts: Winfried Erbach, Joe Weber and Otto Dudle (manuscript reader) and Gretzenacker (564m), some 45 minutes after lea- Translated from German by Hans Bamert ving Hägliloo. These parking spaces are situated at the Pictures: Winfried Erbach and others end of the road coming up from Schaffhausen, and Eschheimer valley 3 - (K) Hoher Randen - Schaffhausen - Tobel - jakobsweg.ch (K) Hoher Randen - Schaffhausen - Tobel - jakobsweg.ch - 4 Swiss border (Hoher Randen)- Schaffhausen Schaffhausen - Stammheim on which we go as far as Lahnbuck (536m). Here, we the railway line, we come to the Rhine and reach the leave the road and walk between maize fields in the di- place Langwiesen after 45 minutes, with its resting rection of the town. Soon we reach the first nice villas place and the outlook back to the Munot. From here, and single-family houses at the upper part of the slope the shady lane leads along the Rhine, in part on the above Schaffhausen. The route leads steeply downhill. broad embankment wall, and brings us in 20 minutes Through the mist, the towers of the old city emerge. to “Paradies”. Near the Rhine ferry stands the inn of that Then we come to the town-part Riet (475m) where the name. Passing a paddle wheel, we come to the former city bus just stops. We withstand the temptation and convent of the order of St. Clare, by name of “Paradies”. make it on foot in 25 minutes to the railway station of Today, the convent is a vocational education centre of Schaffhausen Obertor tower Schaffhausen (403m). Monastery „Allerheilgen“ the firm Georg Fischer AG. The convent was endowed in 1257 by the count Hartmann the elder of Kyburg. Schaffhausen-Stammheim The convent church St. Michel can be viewed freely. 18 km, walking time about 5 hours The baroque church is now the parish church of the municipality of Schlatt. The route turns again towards The “Thurgauer Klosterweg” begins at the monaste- the Rhine and after some fields, reaches the Schaaren- ry All Saints in the old town of Schaffhausen. First, it wald, marked as nature preserve. Past a bathing place leads along the Rhine to Diessenhofen, and then via with meadow and fire-place, the route returns into Stammheim and Frauenfeld to Tobel. All Saints was the wood. On an instruction path we learn that even founded in 1049 by count Eberhard von Nellenburg. the rare lady’s shoe can be found, and that the king- At first, we enter the former monastery church (today Abbey „Kreuzgang“ fisher breeds in the reeds. Partly as a shore-path with reformed minster).